Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes

Part 135

Chapter 1353,733 wordsPublic domain

II.—Prepared chalk 6 ounces Catechu 3 ounces Opium 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Ginger 3 ounces Gentian 3 ounces

One powder 3 times a day in half a pint of warm water. One-sixth of dose for calves.

«Diuretic Ball.»—

I.—Oil juniper 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Rosin 2 drachms Saltpeter 2 drachms Camphor 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Castile soap 1 ounce Flaxseed meal 1 ounce Make 1 pill.

II.—Rosin 90 grains Potassium nitrate 90 grains Po buchu leaves 45 grains Dose: 1 twice a day.

«Drying Drink.»—

Powdered alum 6 ounces Armenian bole 2 ounces Powdered juniper berries 1⁠/⁠2 ounce

Once daily in 1 quart of warm gruel.

«Epizooty or Pinkeye.»—

Sublimed sulphur 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Epsom salt 1 ounce Charcoal 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Extract licorice 1 ounce

«Fever.»—

I.—Salicylic acid 3⁠/⁠4 ounce Sodium bicarbonate 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Magnesium sulphate 10 ounces

Give half in quart of warm bran water at night.

II.—Spirits niter 3 ounces Tincture aconite 2 drachms Fluid extract belladonna 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Nitrate potash 2 ounces Muriate ammonia 2 ounces Water, q.s 1 quart

Dose: Teaspoonful every 2 or 3 hours till better.

«Heaves.»—I.—Balsam copaiba, 1 ounce; spirits of turpentine, 2 ounces; balsam fir, 1 ounce; cider vinegar, 16 ounces.

Tablespoonful once a day.

II.—Saltpeter, 1 ounce; indigo, 1⁠/⁠2 ounce; rain or distilled water, 4 pints.

Dose: 1 pint twice a day.

«Hide Bound.»—

Elecampane 2 ounces Licorice root 2 ounces Fœnugreek 2 ounces Rosin 2 ounces Copperas 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Ginger 2 drachms Gentian 1 drachm Saltpeter 1 drachm Valerian 1 drachm Linseed meal 3 ounces Sublimed sulphur 1 ounce Black antimony 4 drachms

Tablespoonful twice a day.

«HORSE EMBROCATIONS AND LINIMENTS.»

I.—Camphor 1 ounce Acetic acid 15 ounces Alcohol 18 ounces Oil turpentine 51 ounces Eggs 6 Distilled witch hazel 45 ounces

II.—Iodine 50 grains Pot iodide 125 grains Soap liniment 6 ounces

«INFLUENZA.»

I.—Ammonia muriate 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Gum camphor 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Pot chloride 1 ounce Extract licorice, powdered 2 ounces Molasses, q.s.

Make a mass. Dose: Tablespoonful in form of pill night and morning.

II.—Ammonium chloride 30 parts Potassium nitrate 30 parts Potassium sulphate in little crystals 100 parts Licorice powder 65 parts

Mix. Dose: A tablespoonful, in a warm mash, 3 times daily.

«INFLAMMATION OF THE UDDER.»

I.—Salicylic acid 40 grains Mercurial ointment 1 ounce Liniment of camphor 3 1⁠/⁠4 ounces

Apply and rub the udder carefully twice a day.

II.—Belladonna root 1 drachm Oil turpentine 1 ounce Camphor 1 drachm Solution green soap, q.s. 6 ounces

Mix and make a liniment. Bathe the udder several times with hot water. Dry and apply above liniment.

«MANGE.»

Sulphur is a specific for mange; the trouble consists in its application. The {732} old-fashioned lotion of train oil and black sulphur serves well enough, but for stabled animals something is wanted which will effectually destroy the parasites in harness and saddlery without injury to those expensive materials. The creosote emulsions and coal-tar derivatives generally are fatal to the sarcopts if brought into actual contact, but a harness pad with ridges of accumulated grease is a sufficient retreat for a few pregnant females during a perfunctory disinfection, and but a few days will be needed to reproduce a new and vigorous stock. A cheap and efficient application can be made by boiling together flowers of sulphur and calcis hydras in the proportion of 4 parts of the former to 1 of the latter, and 100 of water, for half an hour. It should be applied warm, or immediately after washing with soft soap.

«Milk Powder for Cows.»—For increasing the flow of milk, in cows, Hager recommends the following mixture:

Potassium nitrate 1 part Alum 1 part Sublimed sulphur 1 part Prepared chalk 1 part White bole 2 parts Red clover 5 parts Anise 10 parts Fennel 10 parts Salt 10 parts

All should be in tolerably fine powder and should be well mixed. The directions are to give 1 or 2 handfuls with the morning feed.

«LAXATIVES.»

I.—Aloes 1 drachm Soap 12 drachms Caraway 4 drachms Ginger 4 drachms Treacle, q.s.

Make 4 balls. Dose: 1 daily.

II.—Rochelle salts 2 ounces Aloes, powdered 150 grains Linseed meal 150 grains

One dose, given in warm water.

«Lice.»—

Crude oil 1 ounce Oil tar 1 ounce Oil cedar 1 drachm Cottonseed oil 5 ounces

Apply to parts.

«DOMESTIC PETS.»

The sarcoptic itch of the dog, as well as that of the cat, is transmissible to man.

The _Tinea tonsurans_, the so-called barbers’ itch, due to a trychophyton, and affecting both the dog and cat, is highly contagious to man. Favus, _Tinea favos_, caused by _achorion schoenleini_, of both animals, is readily transmissible to human beings. The dog carries in his intestines many kinds of _tœnia_ (tapeworm), among them _Tœnia echinococcus_, the eggs of which cause hydatic cysts. Hydatic cysts occur in persons who are always surrounded with dogs, or in constant contact with them.

Aviar diphtheria (i.e., the diphtheria of birds), caused by at least two microbes (bacillus of Klebs-Loeffler and bacillus coli), may easily be transmitted to man and cause in him symptoms analogous to those of true diphtheritic angina.

Parrots are subject to an infectious enteritis which may be communicated to human beings, giving rise to the so-called psittacosis (from the Greek, _psitta_, a parrot), of which there have been a number of epidemics in France. It is determined by the bacillus of Nocard.

Human tuberculosis is certainly transmitted to dogs, cats, and birds. Cadiot, Gibert, Roger, Benjamin, Petit, and Basset, as well as other observers, cite cases where dogs, cats, and parrots, presenting all the lesions of tuberculosis, were shown to have contracted it from contact with human beings; while there are no recorded cases, there can scarcely be a natural doubt that man may, in a similar manner, become attainted through them, and that their tuberculosis constitutes an actual danger to man.

Need we recall here the extraordinary facility with which hydrophobia is communicated to man through the dog, cat, etc.?

We may, therefore, conclude that we should not permit these animals to take up so much space in our apartments, nor should they be petted and caressed either by adults or children in the reckless manner common in many households. The disgusting habit of teaching animals to take bits of food, lumps of sugar, etc., from between the lips of members of the family is also to be shunned.

Finally, any or all of them should be banished from the house the moment that they display certain morbid symptoms. Besides, in certain cases, there should be a rigid prophylaxis against certain diseases—as echinococcus, for instance.

«Worms.»—In cats and dogs, round worms, of which ascaris mystax is the {733} most common in cats, are found chiefly in young animals. This worm has hirsute appendages somewhat resembling a mustache. To treat an animal infected with such “guests,” the patient should be made to fast for 24 hours. For a small kitten 1⁠/⁠2 grain of santonin, up to a grain or two for large cats, followed in an hour by a dose of castor oil, is recommended. To avoid spilling the oil on the animal’s coat the “doctor” should have it heated and whipped with warm milk. Another way to get cats to take it is to smear it on the bottoms of their front feet, when they will lick it off.

Areca nut, freshly ground by the druggist himself and administered in liberal doses, say 30 to 60 grains, will usually drive out any worms in the alimentary canal.

It is important that animals successfully treated for worms once should undergo the treatment a second or third time, as all the parasites may not have been killed or removed the first time, or their progeny may have developed in the field vacated by the parents.

The following is an effective formula:

German wormseed, powdered 1 drachm Fluid extract of spigelia 3 drachms Fluid extract of senna 1 drachm Fluid extract of valerian 1 drachm Syrup of buckthorn 2 ounces

Dose: From 1⁠/⁠2 to 1 teaspoonful night and morning.

«Foot Itch.»—The itch that affects the feet of poultry is contagious in a most insidious way. The various birds of a poultry yard in which the disease is prevalent, rarely contract it until after a comparatively long period of exposure, but sooner or later every bird will contract it. One infected bird is enough to infect a whole yard full, and once infected, it is exceedingly difficult to get rid of. The disease, however, affects birds only.

The treatment is simple. Having softened the feet by keeping them for some minutes in tepid water, the scabs that cover them are carefully detached, avoiding, as far as possible, causing them to bleed, and taking the precaution of throwing every scab into the fire. The feet are then carefully dried, with a bit of soft cotton material, which should afterwards be burned; then the entire surface is covered with ointment (_Unguentum sulphuris kalinum_). An alcoholic solution of Canada balsam is preferred by some. Protect the ointment by a proper appliance, and allow it to remain in contact 2 or 3 days. At the end of this time remove the applications and wash off with tepid suds. The bird will generally be found cured, but if not, repeat the treatment—removing the remaining scabs, which will be found soft enough without resorting to soaking in tepid water, and apply the ointment directly.

There is another method of treatment that has been found successful, which not only cures the infected birds but prevents the infection of others. It is simply providing a sand bath for the birds, under a little shed, where they can indulge themselves in rolling and scratching, the bath being composed of equal parts fine sand, charcoal in fine powder, ashes, and flowers of sulphur, sifted together. The bath should be renewed every week. In the course of a few weeks the cure is complete.

«Foods.»—

I.—Powdered egg shell or phosphate of lime 4 ounces Iron sulphate 4 ounces Powdered capsicum 4 ounces Powdered Fœnugreek 2 ounces Powdered black pepper 1 ounce Silver sand 2 ounces Powdered lentils 6 ounces

A tablespoonful to be mixed with sufficient feed for 20 hens.

II.—Oyster shell, ground 5 ounces Magnesia 1 ounce Calcium carbonate 3 ounces Bone, ground 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Mustard bran 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Capsicum 1 ounce

«Powders.»—

I.—Cayenne pepper 2 parts Allspice 4 parts Ginger 6 parts

Powder and mix well together. A teaspoonful to be mixed with every pound of food, and fed 2 or 3 times a week. Also feed fresh meat, finely chopped.

II.—Powdered egg shells 4 parts Powdered capsicum 4 parts Sulphate of iron 4 parts Powdered Fœnugreek 2 parts Powdered black pepper 1 part Sand 2 parts Powdered dog biscuit 6 parts

A tablespoonful to be mixed with sufficient meal or porridge to feed 20 hens. {734}

«Lice Powders.»—

I.—Sulphur 4 ounces Tobacco dust 6 ounces Cedar oil 1⁠/⁠4 ounce White hellebore 4 ounces Crude naphthol 1 ounce Powdered chalk, q.s. 2 pounds

II.—Sulphur 1 ounce Carbolic acid 1⁠/⁠4 ounce Crude naphthol 1 ounce Powdered chalk 1 pound

«Roup or Gapes.»—Roup in poultry is caused by the presence of parasites or entozoa in the windpipe. Young birds are most commonly affected. The best method of treatment is to expose the affected bird to the fumes of heated carbolic acid until on the point of suffocation. The bird may be placed in a box with a hot brick, and carbolic acid placed thereon. The fowls soon recover from the incipient suffocation, and are almost always freed from the disease. Care must be taken to burn the parasites coughed out, and the bodies of any birds which may die of the disease. The following powders for the treatment of “roup” in poultry have been recommended:

I.—Potassium chlorate 1 ounce Powdered cubebs 1 ounce Powdered anise 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Powdered licorice 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces

Mix a teaspoonful with the food for 20 hens.

II.—Ammonium chloride 1 ounce Black antimony 1⁠/⁠4 ounce Powdered anise 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Powdered squill 1⁠/⁠4 ounce Powdered licorice 2 ounces

Mix and use in the foregoing.

«FOR SHEEP:»

«Dips.»—For the prevention of “scab” in sheep, which results from the burrowing of an acarus or the destruction of the parasite when present, various preparations of a somewhat similar character are used. The following formulas for sheep dips are recommended by the United States Department of Agriculture:

I.—Soap 1 pound Crude carbolic acid 1 pint Water 50 gallons

Dissolve the soap in a gallon or more of boiling water, add the acid, and stir thoroughly.

II.—Fresh skimmed milk 1 gallon Kerosene 2 gallons

Churn together until emulsified, or mix and put into the mixture a force pump and direct the stream from the pump back into the mixture. The emulsification will take place more rapidly if the milk be added while boiling hot.

Use 1 gallon of this emulsion to each 10 gallons of water required.

«Constipation.»—

I.—Green soap 150 grains Linseed oil 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Water 15 ounces

Give 1⁠/⁠5 every 1⁠/⁠2 hour till action takes place.

II.—Calomel 1 1⁠/⁠2 grains Sugar 15 grains

One dose.

«Loss of Appetite.»—

Sodium sulphate, dried 90 grains Sodium bicarbonate 30 grains Rhubarb 30 grains Calamus 90 grains

Form the mass into 6 pills. Give one twice daily.

«Inflammation of the Eyes.»—

Zinc sulphate 20 grains Mucilage quince seed 4 ounces Distilled water 4 ounces

Bathe eyes twice daily.

«Vinegar»

I.—Into a hogshead with a large bunghole put 1,500 parts, by weight, of honey, 125 parts of carob-pods, cut into pieces, 50 parts of powdered red or white potassium bitartrate, 125 parts of powdered tartaric acid, 2,000 parts of raisin stems, 400 parts of the best brewers’ yeast, or 500 of leaven rubbed up in water; add 16,000 parts of triple vinegar and 34,000 parts of 40 per cent spirit, containing no fusel oil. Stir all vigorously together; fill up the hogshead with hot water (100° F.), close the bunghole with gauze to keep out insects, and let the contents of the cask stand for from 4 to 6 weeks or until they have turned to vinegar. The temperature of the room should be from 77° to 88° F.

Draw off half the vinegar, and fill the hogshead up again with 15 parts of soft water and 1 part of spirit (40 per cent). Do this 4 times, then draw off all the vinegar and begin the first process over again. This method of making vinegar is suitable for households and small dealers, but would not suffice for {735} wholesale manufacturers, since it would take too long to produce any large amount.

II.—Put into an upright wine cask open at the top, 14,000 parts, by weight, of lukewarm water, 2,333 parts of 60 per cent alcohol, 500 parts of brown sugar, 125 parts of powdered red or white potassium bitartrate, 250 parts of good brewers’ yeast, or 125 parts of leaven, 1,125 parts of triple vinegar, and stir until the substances are dissolved. Lay a cloth and a perforated cover over the cask and let it stand in a temperature of 72° to 77° F. from 4 to 6 weeks; then draw off the vinegar. The thick deposit at the bottom, the “mother of vinegar,” so called, can be used in making more vinegar. Pour over it the same quantities of water and alcohol used at first; but after the vinegar has been drawn off twice, half the first quantity of sugar and potassium bitartrate, and the whole quantity of yeast, must be added. This makes excellent vinegar.

III.—A good strong vinegar for household use may be made from apple or pear peelings. Put the peelings in a stone jar (not glazed with lead) or in a cask, and pour over them water and a little vinegar, fermented beer, soured wine, or beet juice. Stir well, cover with a linen cloth and leave in a warm room. The vinegar will be ready in 2 or 3 weeks.

IV.—Two wooden casks of any desired size, with light covers, are provided. They may be called A and B. A is filled with vinegar, a tenth part of this is poured off into B, and an equal amount of fermented beer, wine, or any other sweet or vinous liquid, or a mixture of 1,125 parts, by weight, of alcohol, 11,500 to 14,000 parts of water, and 1,125 parts of beet juice, put into A.

When vinegar is needed, it is drawn out of B, an equal quantity is poured from A into B and the same quantity of vinegar-making liquids put into A. In this way vinegar is constantly being made and the process may go on for years, provided that the casks are large enough so that not more than a tenth of the contents of A is used in a week. If too much is used, so that the vinegar in the first cask becomes weak, the course of the vinegar making is disturbed for a long time, and this fact, whose importance has not been understood, prevents this method—in its essential principles the best—from being employed on a large scale. The surplus in A acts as a fermentative.

«Aromatic Vinegar.»—I.—Sixteen ounces glacial acetic acid, 40 drops oil of cloves, 40 drops oil of rosemary, 40 drops oil of bergamot, 16 drops oil of neroli, 30 drops oil of lavender, 1 drachm benzoic acid, 1⁠/⁠2 ounce camphor, 30 to 40 drops compound tincture of lavender, 3 ounces spirit of wine. Dissolve the oils, the benzoic acid, and the camphor in the spirit of wine, mix with acetic acid and shake until bright, lastly adding the tincture of lavender to color.

II.—Dried leaves of rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, and lavender flowers, each 1⁠/⁠2 ounce; bruised nutmegs, cloves, angelica root, and camphor, each 1⁠/⁠4 of an ounce; rectified alcohol, 4 ounces; concentrated acetic acid, 16 ounces. Macerate the materials for a day in the alcohol; then add the acid and digest for 1 week longer at a temperature of 490° F. Finally press out the now aromatised acid and filter it.

«Cider Vinegar.»—By “artificial vinegar” is meant vinegar made by the quick method with beechwood shavings. This cannot be carried out with any economy on a small scale, and requires a plant. A modification of the regular plan is as follows: Remove the head from a good tight whisky barrel, and put in a wooden faucet near the bottom. Fill the barrel with corn cobs and lay an empty coffee sack over them. Moisten the cobs by sprinkling them with some good, strong, natural vinegar, and let them soak for a few hours. After the lapse of 2 or 3 hours draw off the vinegar and again moisten the cobs, repeating this until they are rendered sour throughout, adding each time 1 quart of high wines to the vinegar before throwing it back on the cobs. This prevents the vinegar from becoming flat, by the absorption of its acetic acid by the cobs. Mix a gallon of molasses with a gallon of high wine and 14 gallons of water and pour it on the cobs. Soak for 8 hours, then draw off and pour on the cobs again. Repeat this twice daily, until the vinegar becomes sour enough to suit. By having a battery of barrels, say 4 barrels prepared as above, the manufacture may be made remunerative, especially if the residue of sugar casks in place of molasses, and the remnants of ale, etc., from the bar-rooms around town are used. All sugar-containing fruit may be utilized for vinegar making.

VINEGAR, TESTS FOR: See Foods.

VINEGAR, TOILET: See Cosmetics. {736}

VIOLET AMMONIA: See Cosmetics.

VIOLET WATER: See Perfumes.

VIOLIN ROSIN: See Rosin.

VIOLIN VARNISH: See Varnishes.

VISCOSE: See Celluloid.

VOICE LOZENGES: See Confectionery.

VULCANIZATION OF RUBBER: See Rubber.

WAGON GREASE: See Lubricants.

WALLS, DAMP: See Household Formulas.

WALL AND WALL-PAPER CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods, also Household Formulas.

WALL-PAPER DYES: See Dyes.

WALL-PAPER PASTE: See Adhesives.

WALL PAPER, REMOVAL OF: See Household Formulas.

WALL WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing and Household Formulas.

WALL PRIMING: See Paints.

WALNUT: See Wood.

WARMING BOTTLE: See Bottles.

WARPING, PREVENTION OF: See Wood.

«Warts»

Wart Cure.—The following is especially useful in cases where the warts are very numerous:

I.—Chloral hydrate 1 part Acetic acid 1 part Salicylic acid 4 parts Sulphuric ether 4 parts Collodion 5 parts

Mix. Directions: Every morning apply the foregoing to the warts, painting one coat on another. Should the mass fall off without taking the warts with it, repeat the operation. Take, internally 10 grains of burnt magnesia daily.

II.—Sulphur 10 parts Acetic acid 5 parts Glycerine 25 parts

Keep the warts covered with this mixture.

WASHING FLUIDS AND POWDERS: See Laundry Preparations.

WASTE, PHOTOGRAPHIC, ITS DISPOSITION: See Photography.

WATCH—DIAL CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

WATCH GILDING: See Plating.

«Watchmakers’ Formulas»

«WATCH MANUFACTURERS’ ALLOYS.»

Some very tenacious and hard alloys, for making the parts of watches which are not sensitive to magnetism, are as follows:

I II III IV V VI VII

Platinum 62.75 62.75 62.75 54.32 0.5 0.5 — Copper 18 16.20 16.20 16 18.5 18.5 25 Nickel 18 18 16.50 24.70 — 2 1 Cadmium 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 — — — Cobalt — — 1.50 1.96 — — — Tungsten — 1.80 1.80 1.77 — — — Palladium — — — — 72 72 70 Silver — — — — 6.5 7 4 Rhodium — — — — 1 — — Gold — — — — 1.5 — —

A non-magnetic alloy for watch-springs, wheels, etc.: Gold, 30 to 40 parts; palladium, 30 to 40 parts; copper, 10 to 20 parts; silver, 0.1 to 5 per cent; cobalt, 0.1 to 2.5 per cent; tungsten, 0.1 to 5 per cent; rhodium, 0.1 to 5 per cent; platinum, 0.1 to 5 per cent.

«An Alloy for Watch Pinion Sockets.»—Gold, 31 parts; silver, 19 parts; copper, 39 parts; palladium, 1 part.