Part 120

Parts by weight II.—Pink No. 114 10 Lemon oil 60 Cedar-wood oil 60 Citronella oil 50 Wintergreen oil 15

Pale-Yellow Soap.—

Parts by weight III.—Orange No. 410 10 Citronella oil 60 Sassafras oil 60 Lavender oil 45 Wintergreen oil 15 Aniseed oil 25

Toilet Soap Powder.—

Marseilles soap, powdered 100 parts Bran of almonds 50 parts Lavender oil 5 parts Thyme oil 3 parts Spike oil 2 parts Citronella oil 2 parts

Soft Toilet Soaps.—Soft toilet soaps or creams may be prepared from fresh lard with a small addition of cocoanut oil and caustic potash solution, by the cold process or by boiling. For the cold process, 23 parts of fresh lard and 2 parts of Cochin cocoanut oil are warmed in a jacketed pan, and when the temperature reaches 113° F. are treated with 9 parts of caustic potash and 2 1⁠/⁠2 parts of caustic soda solution, both of 38° Bé. strength, the whole being stirred until saponification is complete. The soap is transferred to a large marble mortar and pounded along with the following scenting ingredients: 0.15 parts of oil of bitter almonds and 0.02 parts of oil of geranium rose, or 0.1 part of the latter, and 0.05 parts of lemon oil. The warm process is preferable, experience having shown that boiling is essential to the proper saponification of the fats. In this method, 80 parts of lard and 20 parts of Cochin cocoanut oil are melted together in a large pan, 100 parts of potash lye (20° Bé.) being then crutched in by degrees, and the mass raised to boiling point. The combined influence of the heat and crutching vaporizes part of the water in the lye, and the soap thickens. When the soap has combined, the fire is made up, and another 80 parts of the same potash lye are crutched in gradually. The soap gets thicker and thicker as the water is expelled and finally throws up “roses” on the surface, indicating that it is nearly finished. At this stage it must be crutched vigorously, to prevent scorching against the bottom of the pan and the resulting more or less dark coloration. The evaporation period may be shortened by using only 50 to 60 parts of lye at first, and fitting with lye of 25° to 30° strength. For working on the large scale iron pans heated by steam are used, a few makers employing silver-lined vessels, which have the advantage that they are not attacked by the alkali. Tinned copper pans are also useful. The process takes from 7 to 8 hours, and when the soap is finished it is transferred into stoneware vessels for storage. Clear vegetable oils (castor oil) may be used, but the soaps lack the requisite nacreous luster required.

«TRANSPARENT SOAPS.»

The mode of production is the same for all. The fats are melted together, sifted into a double boiler, and the lye is stirred in at 111° F. Cover up for an hour, steam being allowed to enter slowly. There is now a clear, grain-like soap in the kettle, into which the sugar solution and the alcohol are crutched, whereupon the kettle is covered up. If cuttings are to be used, they are now added. When same are melted, the kettle will contain a thin, clear soap, which is colored and scented as per directions, and subsequently filled into little iron molds and cooled.

«Rose-Glycerine Soap.»—

I.—Cochin cocoanut oil 70,000 parts Compressed tallow 40,000 parts Castor oil 30,000 parts Caustic soda lye, 38° Bé 79,000 parts Sugar 54,000 parts

Dissolved in

Water 60,000 parts Alcohol 40,000 parts Geranium oil (African) 250 parts Lemon oil 200 parts Palmarosa oil 1,200 parts Bergamot oil 80 parts

«Benzoin-Glycerine Soap.»—

II.—Cochin cocoanut oil 66,000 parts Compressed tallow 31,000 parts {653} Castor oil 35,000 parts Caustic soda lye, 38° Bé 66,000 parts Sugar 35,000 parts

Dissolved in

Water 40,000 parts Alcohol 35,000 parts Brown, No. 120 200 parts Powdered benzoin (Siam) 4,200 parts Styrax liquid 1,750 parts Tincture of benzoin 1,400 parts Peru balsam 700 parts Lemon oil 200 parts Clove oil 70 parts

«Sunflower-Glycerine Soap.»—

III.—Cochin cocoanut oil 70,000 parts Compressed tallow 50,000 parts Castor oil 23,000 parts Caustic soda lye, 39° Bé 71,000 parts Sugar 40,000 parts

Dissolved in

Water 30,000 parts Alcohol 40,000 parts Brown, No. 55 250 parts Geranium oil 720 parts Bergamot oil 300 parts Cedar-wood oil 120 parts Palmarosa oil 400 parts Vanillin 10 parts Tonka tincture 400 parts

«MISCELLANEOUS FORMULAS:»

«Szegedin Soap.»—Tallow, 120 parts; palm kernel oil, 80 parts. Saponify well with about 200 parts of lye of 24° Bé. and add, with constant stirring, the following fillings in rotation, viz., potash solution, 20° Bé., 150 parts, and cooling salt solution 20° Bé., 380 parts.

«Instrument Soap.»—A soap for cleaning surgical instruments, and other articles of polished steel, which have become specked with rust by exposure, is made by adding precipitated chalk to a strong solution of cyanide of potassium in water, until a cream-like paste is obtained. Add to this white castile soap in fine shavings, and rub the whole together in a mortar, until thoroughly incorporated. The article to be cleaned should be first immersed, if possible, in a solution of 1 part of cyanide of potash in 4 parts of water, and kept there until the surface dirt and rust disappears. It should then be polished with the soap, made as above directed.

«Stain-Removing Soaps.»—These are prepared in two ways, either by making a special soap, or by mixing ordinary soap with special detergents. A good recipe is as follows:

I.—Ceylon cocoanut or palm seed oil 320 pounds Caustic soda lye, 38° Bé 160 pounds Carbonate of potash, 20° Bé 56 pounds Oil of turpentine 9 pounds Finely powdered kieselguhr 280 pounds Brilliant green 2 pounds

The oil having been fused, the dye is mixed with some of it and stirred into the contents of the pan. The kieselguhr is then crutched in from a sieve, then the lye, and then the carbonate of potash. These liquids are poured in in a thin stream. When the soap begins to thicken, add the turpentine, mold, and cover up the molds.

II.—Rosin grain soap 1,000 pounds Talc (made to a paste with weak carbonate of potash) 100 pounds Oil of turpentine 4 pounds Benzine 3 pounds

Mix the talc and soap by heat, and when cool enough add the turpentine and benzine, and mold.

III.—Cocoanut oil 600 pounds Tallow 400 pounds Caustic soda lye 500 pounds Fresh ox gall 200 pounds Oil of turpentine 12 pounds Ammonia (sp. gr., 0.91) 6 pounds Benzine 5 pounds

Saponify by heat, cool, add the gall and the volatile liquids, and mold.

«Soap Substitutes.»—

I.—Linseed oil 28 pounds Sulphur 8 pounds Aluminum soap 28 pounds Oil of turpentine 4 pounds

II.—Aluminum soap 15 pounds Almadina 25 pounds Caoutchouc 50 pounds Sulphur 6 pounds Oleum succini 4 pounds

«Shampoo Soap.»—

Linseed oil 20 parts Malaga olive oil 20 parts Caustic potash 9 1⁠/⁠2 parts Alcohol 1 part Water 30 parts

{654}

Warm the mixed oils on a large water bath, then the potash and water in another vessel, heating both to 158° F., and adding the latter hot solution to the hot oil while stirring briskly. Now add and thoroughly mix the alcohol. Stop stirring, keep the heat at 158° F. until the mass becomes clear and a small quantity dissolves in boiling water without globules of oil separating. Set aside for a few days before using to make the liquid soap.

The alcohol may be omitted if a transparent product is immaterial.

«Sapo Durus.»—

Olive oil 100 parts Soda lye, sp. gr., 1.33 50 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 30 parts

Heat on a steam bath until saponification is complete. The soap thus formed is dissolved in 300 parts of hot distilled water, and salted out by adding a filtered solution of 25 parts of sodium chloride and 5 parts of crystallized sodium carbonate in 80 parts of water.

«Sapo Mollis.»—

Olive oil 100 parts Solid potassium hydroxide 21 parts Water 100 parts Alcohol (90 per cent) 20 parts

Boil by means of a steam bath until the oil is saponified, adding, if necessary, a little more spirit to assist the saponification.

«Sand Soap.»—Cocoa oil, 24 parts; soda lye, 38° Bé., 12 parts; sand, finely sifted, 28 parts; cassia oil, .0100 parts; sassafras oil, .0100 parts.

«Salicylic Soap.»—When salicylic acid is used in soap it decomposes, as a rule, and an alkali salicylate is formed which the skin does not absorb. A German chemist claims to have overcome this defect by thoroughly eliminating all water from potash or soda soap, then mixing it with vaseline, heating the mixture, and incorporating free salicylic acid with the resulting mass. The absence of moisture prevents any decomposition of the salicylic acid.

«Olein Soap Substitute.»—Fish oil or other animal oil is stirred up with sulphuric acid, and then treated with water. After another stirring, the whole is left to settle, and separate into layers, whereupon the acid and water are drawn off, and caustic soda solution is stirred in with the oil. The finishing stage consists in stirring in refined mineral oil, magnesium chloride, borium chloride, and pure seal or whale oil, in succession.

«Mottled Soap.»—Tallow, 30 parts; palm kernel oil, 270 parts; lye, 20°, 347 1⁠/⁠2 parts; potassium chloride solution, 20°, 37 1⁠/⁠2 parts. After everything has been boiled into a soap, crutch the following dye solution into it: Water, 5 1⁠/⁠2 parts; blue, red, or black, .0315 parts; water glass, 38°, 10 parts; and lye, 38°, 1 1⁠/⁠2 parts.

«Laundry Soap.»—A good, common hard soap may be made from clean tallow or lard and caustic soda, without any very special skill in manipulation. The caustic soda indicated is a crude article which may now be obtained from wholesale druggists in quantities to suit, at a very moderate price. A lye of average strength is made by dissolving it in water in the proportion of about 2 pounds to the gallon. For the saponification of lard, a given quantity of the grease is melted at a low heat, and 1⁠/⁠4 its weight of lye is then added in small portions with constant stirring; when incorporation has been thoroughly effected, another portion of lye equal to the first is added, as before, and the mixture kept at a gentle heat until saponification appears to be complete. If the soap does not readily separate from the liquid, more lye should be added, the soap being insoluble in strong lye. When separation has occurred, pour off the lye, add water to the mass, heat until dissolved, and again separate by the use of more strong lye or a strong solution of common salt. The latter part of the process is designed to purify the soap and may be omitted where only a cruder article is required. The soap is finally remelted on a water bath, kept at a gentle heat until as much water as possible is expelled, and then poured into frames or molds to set.

«Dog Soap.»—

Petroleum 5 parts by weight Wax 4 parts by weight Alcohol 5 parts by weight Good laundry soap. 15 parts by weight

Heat the petroleum, wax, and alcohol on a water bath until they are well mixed, and dissolve in the mixture the soap cut in fine shavings. This may be used on man or beast for driving away vermin.

«Liquid Tar Soap» (Sapo Picis liquidus).—

Wood tar 25 parts Hebra’s soap spirit 75 parts

«Ox-Gall Soap for Cleansing Silk Stuffs.»—To wash fine silk stuffs, such as {655} piece goods, ribbons, etc., employ a soap containing a certain amount of ox gall, a product that is not surpassed for the purpose. In making this soap the following directions will be found of advantage: Heat 1 pound of cocoanut oil to 100° F. in a copper kettle. While stirring vigorously add 1⁠/⁠2 pound of caustic soda lye of 30° Baumé. In a separate vessel heat 1⁠/⁠2 pound of white Venice turpentine, and stir this in the soap in the copper kettle. Cover the kettle well, and let it stand, mildly warmed for 4 hours, when the temperature can be again raised until the mass is quite hot and flows clear; then add the pound of ox gall to it. Now pulverize some good, perfectly dry grain soap, and stir in as much of it as will make the contents of the copper kettle so hard that it will yield slightly to the pressure of the fingers. From 1 to 2 pounds is all the grain soap required for the above quantity of gall soap. When cooled, cut out the soap and shape into bars. This is an indispensable adjunct to the dyer and cleaner, as it will not injure the most delicate color.

«SOAP-BUBBLE LIQUIDS.»

I.—White hard soap 25 parts Glycerine 15 parts Water 1,000 parts

II.—Dry castile soap 2 parts Glycerine 30 parts Water 40 parts

SOAP POLISHES: See Polishes.

SOAP, TOOTH: See Dentifrice.

SODA PAINT: See Paint.

SODA WATER: See Beverages.

SODIUM HYPOSULPHITE: See Photography.

SODIUM SILICATE AS A CEMENT: See Adhesives, under Water-Glass Cements.

SODIUM SALTS, EFFERVESCENT: See Salts.

«Solders»

«SOLDERING OF METALS AND THE PREPARATION OF SOLDERS.»

The object of soldering is to unite two portions of the same metal or of different metals by means of a more fusible metal or metallic alloy, applied when melted, and known by the name of solder. As the strength of the soldering depends on the nature of the solder used, the degree of strength required for the joint must be kept in view in choosing a solder. The parts to be joined must be free from oxide and thoroughly clean; this can be secured by filing, scouring, scraping, or pickling with acids. The edges must fit exactly, and be heated to the melting point of the solder. The latter must have a lower melting point than either of the portions of metal that require to be joined, and if possible only those metals should be chosen for solder which form alloys with them. The solder should also as far as possible have the same color and approximately the same strength as the article whose edges are to be united.

To remove the layers of oxide which form during the process of soldering, various so-called “fluxes” are employed. These fluxes are melted and applied to the joint, and act partly by keeping off the air, thus preventing oxidation, and partly by reducing and dissolving the oxides themselves. The choice of a flux depends on the quantity of heat required for soldering.

Solders are classed as soft and hard solders. Soft solders, also called tin solders or white solders, consist of soft, readily fusible metals or alloys, and do not possess much strength; they are easy to handle on account of their great fusibility. Tin, lead-tin, and alloys of tin, lead, and bismuth are used for soft solders, pure tin being employed only for articles made of the same metal (pure tin).

The addition of some lead makes the solder less fusible but cheaper, while that of bismuth lowers the melting point. Soft solders are used for soldering easily fusible metals such as Britannia metal, etc., also for soldering tin plate. To prepare solder, the metals are melted together in a graphite crucible at as low a temperature as possible, well stirred with an iron rod, and cast into ingots in an iron mold. To melt the solder when required for soldering, the soldering iron is used; the latter should be kept as free from oxidation as possible, and the part applied should be tinned over.

To make so-called “Sicker” solder, equal parts of lead and tin are melted together, well mixed, and allowed to stand till the mixture begins to set, the part still in a liquid condition being then poured off. This mixture can, however, {656} be more easily made by melting together 37 parts of lead and 63 parts of tin (exactly measured).

Soldering irons are usually made of copper, as copper is easily heated and easily gives up its heat to the solder. The point of the iron must be “tinned.” To do this properly, the iron should be heated hot enough easily to melt the solder; the point should then be quickly dressed with a smooth flat file to remove the oxide, and rubbed on a piece of tin through solder and sal ammoniac. The latter causes the solder to adhere in a thin, even coat to the point of the iron. A gas or gasoline blow torch or a charcoal furnace is best for heating the iron, but a good, clean coal fire, well coked, will answer the purpose.

When in use, the iron should be hot enough to melt the solder readily. A cold iron produces rough work. This is where the beginner usually fails. If possible, it is well to warm the pieces before applying the iron. The iron must not be heated too hot, however, or the tin on the point will be oxidized. The surfaces to be soldered must be clean. Polish them with sandpaper, emery cloth, a file, or a scraper. Grease or oil will prevent solder from sticking.

Some good soldering fluid should be used. A very good fluid is made by dissolving granulated zinc in muriatic acid. Dissolve as much zinc as possible in the acid. The gas given off will explode if ignited. To granulate the zinc, melt it in a ladle, and pour it slowly into a barrel of water. A brush or swab should be used to spread the fluid on the surfaces to be soldered. If the point of the soldering iron becomes dirty, it should be wiped on a cloth or piece of waste that has been dampened with the soldering fluid.

«Soldering of Metallic Articles.»—In a recently invented process the parts to be united are covered, on the surfaces not to be soldered, with a protective mass, which prevents an immediate contact of the solder with the surfaces in question, and must be brushed off only after the soldered pieces have cooled perfectly, whereby the possibility of a change of position of these pieces seems precluded.

For the execution of this process the objects to be soldered, after the surfaces to be united have been provided with a water-glass solution as the soldering agent and placed together as closely as possible or united by wires or rivets, are coated in the places where no solder is desired with a protective mass, consisting essentially of carbon (graphite, coke, or charcoal), powdered talc or asbestos, ferric hydrate (with or without ferrous hydrate), and, if desired, a little aluminum oxide, together with a binding agent of the customary kind (glue solution, beer).

Following are some examples of the composition of these preparations:

I.—Graphite, 50 parts; powdered coke, 5 parts; powdered charcoal, 5 parts; powdered talc, 10 parts; glue solution, 2.5 parts; drop beer, 2.5 parts; ferric hydrate, 10 parts; aluminum oxide, 5 parts.

II.—Graphite, burnt, 4 parts; graphite, unburnt, 6 parts; powdered charcoal, 3 parts; powdered asbestos, 1 part; ferric hydrate, 3 parts; ferrous hydrate, 2 parts; glue solution, 1 part.

The article thus prepared is plunged, after the drying of the protective layer applied, in the metal bath serving as solder (molten brass, copper, etc.), and left to remain therein until the part to be soldered has become red hot, which generally requires about 50 to 60 seconds, according to the size of the object. In order to avoid, in introducing the article into the metal bath, the scattering of the molten metal, it is well previously to warm the article and to dip it warm. After withdrawal from the metal bath the soldered articles are allowed to cool, and are cleaned with wire brushes, so as to cause the bright surfaces to reappear.

The process is especially useful for uniting iron or steel parts, such as machinery, arms, and bicycle parts in a durable manner.

«Soldering Acid.»—A very satisfactory soldering acid may be made by the use of the ordinary soldering acid for the base and introducing a certain proportion of chloride of tin and sal ammoniac. This gives an acid which is superior in every way to the old form. To make 1 gallon of this soldering fluid take 3 quarts of common muriatic acid and allow it to dissolve as much zinc as it will take up. This method, of course, is the usual one followed in the manufacture of ordinary soldering acid. The acid, as is well known, must be placed in an earthenware or glass vessel. The zinc may be sheet clippings or common plate spelter broken into small pieces. Place the acid in the vessel and add the zinc in small portions so as to prevent the whole from boiling over. When all the zinc has been added and the action has stopped, it indicates that enough has been taken up. Care must be taken to see that there is a little zinc left in the bottom, as {657} otherwise the acid will be in excess. The idea is to have the acid take up as much zinc as it can.

After this has been done there will remain some residue in the form of a black precipitate. This is the lead which all zinc contains, and which is not dissolved by the muriatic acid. This lead may be removed by filtering through a funnel in the bottom of which there is a little absorbent cotton, or the solution may be allowed to remain overnight until the lead has settled and the clear solution can then be poured off. This lead precipitate is not particularly injurious to the soldering fluid, but it is better to get rid of it so that a good, clear solution may be obtained. Next, dissolve 6 ounces of sal ammoniac in a pint of warm water. In another pint dissolve 4 ounces of chloride of tin. The chloride of tin solution will usually be cloudy, but this will not matter. Now mix the 3 solutions together. The solution will be slightly cloudy when the 3 have been mixed, and the addition of a few drops of muriatic acid will render it perfectly clear. Do not add any more acid than is necessary to do this, as the solution would then contain too much of this ingredient and the results would be injurious.

This soldering acid will not spatter when the iron is applied to it. It has also been found that a poorer grade of solder may be used with it than with the usual soldering acid.

«ALUMINUM SOLDERS.»

To solder aluminum it is necessary previously to tin the parts to be soldered. This tinning is done with the iron, using a composition of aluminum and tin. Replace the ordinary soldering iron by an iron of pure aluminum. Preparation of aluminum solder: Commence by fusing the copper; then add the aluminum in several installments, stir the mixture well with a piece of iron; next add the zinc and a little tallow or benzine at the same time. Once the zinc is added do not heat too strongly, to avoid the volatilization of the zinc.