Category: Travel Writing

Head-hunters, black, white, and brown

The Expedition Dispensary—Investigations in Experimental Psychology: visual acuity, colour vision, mirror writing, estimation of time, acuity of hearing, sense of smell and taste, sensitiveness to pain—The Miriam language—Methods of acquiring information—Rain-making—Native amu...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I

2. CHAPTER II

3. CHAPTER III

The Expedition Dispensary—Investigations in Experimental Psychology: visual acuity, colour vision, mirror writing, estimation of time, acuity of hearing, sense of smell and tast...

4. CHAPTER IV

5. CHAPTER V.

The Murray Island oracle, Tomog Zogo—The village of Las—Tamar—The war-dance at Ziriam Zogo—Zabarker—Wind-raising—Teaching Geography at Dam—Tamar again—A Miriam “play”—How Pepker...

6. CHAPTER VI

Our “boys” in Murray Island—“Gi, he gammon”—Character of some of our native friends—Ulai—Rivalry between Debe Wali and Jimmy Rice—Our Royal Guests—The Papuan method of smoking—A...

7. CHAPTER VII

Leave Murray Island in the _Nieue_—Daru—Arrive at Saguane—Mission-work—Visit Iasa—Long clan houses—Totems and totemistic customs—Bull-roarers and human effigies as garden charms...

8. CHAPTER VIII

Mabuiag revisited—Character of the island—Comparison between the Murray Island and Mabuiag natives—Barter for skulls—Economic condition of Mabuiag—Present of food—Waria, a liter...

9. CHAPTER IX

Totemism in Mabuiag—Significance of Totemism—Advantage of Totemism—Seclusion of girls—The Sacred Island of Pulu—The scenes of some of Kwoiam’s exploits—The Pulu Kwod—The stone t...

10. CHAPTER X

A dugong hunt—What is a dugong?—The dugong platform—Dugong charms—Turtle-fishing—How the sucker-fish is employed to catch turtle—Beliefs respecting the _gapu_—The _agu_ and bull...

11. CHAPTER XI

MARRIAGE CUSTOMS: How girls propose marriage among the western tribe—A proposal in Tut—Marital relations—A wedding in church—An unfortunate love affair—Various love-letters. STA...

12. CHAPTER XII

Our party breaks up. SAIBAI: Clan groupings—Vaccination marks turned to a new use—Triple-crowned coconut palm—A two-storied native house. TUT: Notes of a former visit—Brief desc...

13. CHAPTER XIII

14. CHAPTER XIV

The _Olive Branch_—Passage across the Papuan Gulf—Delena—Tattooing—A Papuan _amentum_—A sorcerer’s kit—Borepada—Port Moresby—Gaile, a village built in the sea—Character of the c...

15. CHAPTER XV

Bulaa by moonlight—Hospitality of the South Sea teachers—Geographical character of the Hood Peninsula—Kalo—Annual fertility ceremony at Babaka—Canoe-making at Keapara—The fishin...

16. CHAPTER XVI

Port Moresby—Ride inland—Vegetation—View from the top of Warirata—The Taburi village of Atsiamakara—The Koiari—Tree houses—The Agi chief—Contrasts—A lantern show—The mountaineer...

17. CHAPTER XVII

Arrival at Yule Island—The Sacred Heart Mission—Death of a Brother—A service at Ziria—The meeting of the Papuan East and West in Yule Island—The _Ibitoe_—Making a drum—Marriage...

18. CHAPTER XVIII

Arrival in Sarawak—Description of Kuching—The Sarawak Museum—Visit to Sibu—Stay in Limbang—A Malay sago factory—Visit to Brunei—Method and aims of Rajah Brooke’s Government _Pag...

19. CHAPTER XIX

Leave Limbang—A Kadayan house at Tulu—Rapids on the Limbang—Ascent of the Madalam—The Insurrection of Orang Kaya Tumonggong Lawai—Enter the Trikan—Durian—Met by Mr. Douglas—Old...

20. CHAPTER XX

THE GEOGRAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF BORNEO: Arrangement of mountains—The geology of the “Mountain-land,” Palæozoic—Mesozoic—the geology of the “Hill-land,” Cainozoic—The...

21. CHAPTER XXI

The Lelak house at Long Tru—Skull trophies—The settled Punans on the Bok—Sarcophagus in Taman Liri’s house—Divination by means of a pig’s liver in Aban Abit’s house—Purchase of...

22. CHAPTER XXII

Ceremony of moving skulls into a new house at Long Puah—Naming ceremony for Jangan’s boy—Peace-making—Conviviality—Malohs desire to marry some Sĕbop girls—Sĕbop dances—Scenery o...

23. CHAPTER XXIII

24. CHAPTER XXIV

Reasons for collecting heads—Head required for going out of mourning for a chief—Kenyah legend of the origin of Head-hunting—How Kenyahs leave skulls behind when moving into a n...

25. CHAPTER XXV

Padi competition—Obstacle race—Speech-making—The Lirong _jawa_—Fracas and reconciliation—Tuba-fishing in Logan Ansok—Great boat-race—Monster public meeting—Enthusiastic speeches...

26. CHAPTER I

We arrived at Torres Straits early in the morning of April 22nd, 1898, and dropped anchor off Friday Island, as the steamers of the Ducal Line are not allowed now to tie up at t...

27. CHAPTER II

Torres Straits were discovered and passed through in August, 1606, by Luis Vaez de Torres. They were first partially surveyed by Captain Cook in 1770, and more thoroughly during...

28. CHAPTER III

The first thing we did after arranging the house was to convert a little room into a dispensary, and very soon numbers of natives came to get medicine and advice. McDougall, Mye...

29. CHAPTER IV

In various parts of the world there are very important ceremonies in which the lads are formally received into the community of men. Before undergoing these initiation ceremonie...

30. CHAPTER V

We all like to know what has happened recently, or what will probably take place in the immediate future, and so we read the daily paper to learn the news. Savages, after all, a...

31. CHAPTER VI

I have previously mentioned that I had engaged two Murray Island natives, Debe Wali and Jimmy Rice, to assist Ontong, our Javanese cook. At first I offered them a shilling a day...

32. CHAPTER VII

We left Murray Island at 10 a.m., September 8th, by the _Nieue_, which the Rev. James Chalmers very kindly sent to us. A small crowd assembled to bid us farewell, and I know man...

33. CHAPTER VIII

The day after we left Parama we had a long, disagreeable run against the tide to Dauan, only reaching a comparatively sheltered anchorage near this island late at night. In the...

34. CHAPTER IX

It was very interesting living among a people in the totemistic stage of culture, but this custom is now gradually dying out, and the young men do not know much about it. An old...

35. CHAPTER X

During my former visit to Mabuiag I had an opportunity of witnessing the method of catching dugong. It was a morning in October, 1888, when I accompanied the Mamoose on a dugong...

36. CHAPTER XI

There were formerly two ways by means of which a young Torres Straits islander might find favour in the eyes of a girl—the one was skill in dancing, the other was the possession...

37. CHAPTER XII

It was sad to feel that the end of our stay in Torres Straits was drawing near. On October 19th Rivers left us, and two days later Wilkin also had to go. Ray, Seligmann, and mys...

38. CHAPTER XIII

On November 2nd, Ray, Seligmann, and I went with Mr. Douglas to Somerset, in Albany Pass, Cape York, to visit Mr. Frank Jardine. We reached Somerset early in the afternoon and l...

39. CHAPTER XIV

As explained in the Preface, I have not strictly followed a chronological order in this book, and the events narrated in this and the three following chapters took place from Ma...

40. CHAPTER XV

We started next day, and arrived at Hood Point at 4 p.m., but owing to the water being very shallow we anchored a long way from the shore. As we had no boat on board we were obl...

41. CHAPTER XVI

I have as yet said very little about Port Moresby. It is a commodious bay with an inner portion (Fairfax Harbour), which is land-locked. The double bay is surrounded by thinly w...

42. CHAPTER XVII

We arrived at Hall Sound at 6.15 p.m., Thursday, July 6th, and visited the Sacred Heart Mission, where we were cordially received by Archbishop Navarre and his colleagues. Altho...

43. CHAPTER XVIII

We left Singapore at ten o’clock of the morning of December 10th, on the _Vorwärts_, and arrived at Kuching about 1.30 on the 12th. The voyage up the twenty-three miles of the S...

44. CHAPTER XIX

Hose had arranged for us to go up the Limbang and the Madalam rivers, to walk across a low watershed, and to come down the Malinau, Tutau, and Baram to Claudetown. The greater p...

45. CHAPTER XX

The centre of Borneo does not appear to be occupied by one great central continuous range of old folded mountains, but by numerous more or less isolated peaks and ridges which r...

46. CHAPTER XXI

The following is an account of some experiences on an up-river trip, when McDougall, Ray, and myself accompanied Dr. Charles Hose, the Resident of the Baram District of Sarawak,...

47. CHAPTER XXII

We reached the Sĕbop village of Long Puah, up the Lobong affluent of the Tinjar, on the evening of February 19th. Jangan, the headman, made us comfortable in the large new house...

48. CHAPTER XXIII

The cult of the omen animals is of such importance in the daily life of most of the tribes of Borneo that it is desirable that more attention should be paid to it by those who h...

49. CHAPTER XXIV

There can be little doubt that one of the chief incentives to procure heads was to please the women. Among some tribes it was said to be an indispensable necessity for a young m...

50. CHAPTER XXV

At the close of our stay at Baram we had the good fortune to be present at a great gathering of chiefs and representative men, with their followers, from all parts of this large...