Part 5

In Fig. 52 are illustrated types of prison or asylum locks. The lock shown at (_a_) is embedded, or built, in the jamb, while that at (_b_) is secured to the door and the keeper is fastened in the jamb.

There are numerous other patterns of asylum and prison locks, such as those illustrated in Fig. 53. The lock shown at (_a_) is arranged to operate with a double-bitted key, while the one at (_b_) is operated by means of a Yale key.

Nearly all modern locks for this purpose are operated with either double-bitted or Yale keys, and those in common use are cylinder locks. Information regarding these types of locks should be obtained in advance, so that in preparing the plans and specifications, the type selected may be clearly indicated and the arrangements made for any special construction necessary to receive them. As the approved forms of asylum or prison locks are built in the masonry during construction, they must be delivered during the early stages of the erection of the building.

=49. Bank and Safe Locks.=—Locks for the doors of burglar-proof and fireproof safes and vaults constitute a group distinct from all others. These locks embody the most complicated mechanism, and represent the highest art of modern lock making. The architect in preparing plans of buildings for banks and trust companies is frequently called on to approve or to specify the fastenings for vault and safe doors. While the owners of such buildings will probably predetermine the kind of lock to be employed, nevertheless they will be guided by the advice of the architect in the selection of some particular make. The locks used on such vaults and safes comprise _time_, or _chronometer, locks_; _dial_, or _combination, locks_; and _safe-deposit_ and _subtreasury locks_. There is also a device known as a _bolt-motor_, or _automatic lock_, which is an allied product. In the manufacture of these special locks, the skill of numerous experts and specialists is required, and as their knowledge is at the disposal of the architect or the engineer, they should be consulted in the selection of such important pieces of mechanism.

The =time lock= is illustrated in Fig. 54, and is a locking device actuated by clockwork. This type of lock is used in connection with the heavy boltwork of a safe door, to prevent it from unlocking except during certain hours determined beforehand. This lock is now recognized as an essential part of the equipment of all first-class, burglar-proof vaults and safes. In its standard form, the time lock has three chronometer movements of the finest construction, each of which is competent to actuate the lock, so that, in this way, almost absolute reliability is insured.

A =dial=, or =combination, lock= is shown in Fig. 55. The combination commonly called the _dial lock_ has completely superseded the key lock for use on safe and vault doors. Essentially, the dial lock consists of a bolting mechanism guarded by a set of changeable tumblers, or wheels. These tumblers are actuated by a spindle passing through the door, this spindle being provided on the outer end with a graduated dial. By rotating the dial in a certain manner, the dial can be set and the lock operated. Dial, or combination, locks are made in two grades, or varieties, designed respectively for burglar-proof and for fireproof safes. The lock intended for burglar-proof purposes is heavy and made to resist violence, while the other locks are smaller, simpler, and cheaper, intended only to secure the door against ordinary intrusion. Both of these locks should be absolutely “non-pickable.”

In connection with the time lock, an automatic bolt-operating device is now used on burglar-proof safes. The =bolt-motor= is a mechanism containing heavy springs and is attached to the inside of a safe door. These springs are set, or braced, while the door is closed, and when released by the action of the time lock are capable of automatically retracting the heavy boltwork of the door. This construction obviates the necessity of any spindle through the door, and leaves the surface absolutely unbroken, without any communication between the interior and exterior.

A form of =safe-deposit lock= is illustrated in Fig. 56. This lock is of a new type, and is intended expressly for individual safes, or boxes, rented by the safe-deposit companies. Such locks are nearly always provided with a guard key, which is in charge of a custodian and common to all the locks in the series. Each lock has its own individual, or change, key, however, which differs from every other key in the series. Before a change key can be inserted into its lock, the guard mechanism must be unlocked by the guard key in charge of the custodian. This makes the presence of the latter a necessary preliminary to the unlocking of the box by the renter or his authorized agent. Many styles and sizes of safe-deposit locks are made to meet varying conditions, the lock probably most used being the Yale, or pin-tumbler, variety, in which additional security is obtained by using keys of special proprietary forms. For safe-deposit boxes of large size, the dial lock is often used.

=Subtreasury locks= are intended for use on the small safety chests, or “subtreasuries,” often placed within a fireproof safe. These locks, which are illustrated in Fig. 57, are of various types and sizes, and are suitable for use on metal doors of all kinds.

=50. Care and Maintenance of Locks.=—Locks, like other pieces of mechanism, need reasonable care and attention to keep them in the best condition. As they contain moving parts, they are subjected to frictional wear and need occasional lubrication. Most of the friction, and consequently the wear, occurs in the beveled latch bolt, which may be readily lubricated. If the latch bolt is troublesome, its face and back should be cleaned with a cloth moistened with naphtha or kerosene, to remove any dirt. These surfaces should then be wiped with another cloth saturated with machine oil or, better, with vaseline. Any person can perform this simple work, and if it is done once or twice a year, it will keep the bolts in such condition that each door will close easily and quietly at all times. Another cause of trouble is the tendency of the old-fashioned knob screw to become loose, thus allowing the knob to pull from the spindle. Where such spindles are used, it is a good plan to inspect them occasionally and to tighten any loose screws. The best results from lock hardware, however, can be obtained by having all locks and hardware inspected by a lock expert about once a year.

=51. Pottery Knobs.=—=Door knobs=, which are important appurtenances to locks and latches, are made of many kinds of materials, and are fastened to the spindle in several ways. It is necessary, in order to make the proper selection of knobs for doors, to be thoroughly conversant with the various types on the market. The cheapest type of door knob is molded from several kinds of clay. These =pottery knobs= are secured to iron or bronze shanks by _leading_; that is, by setting them in molten lead, which, in hardening, secures the knob to the shank.

Pottery knobs are made in three styles, namely, _mineral_, _jet_, and _porcelain_. Mineral knobs are dark brown in color, while jet and porcelain knobs are, respectively, jet black and pure white. All of these knobs are highly glazed, and are used only with the cheapest grades of locks. Ordinarily, they are furnished with japanned mountings, or shank and rose; occasionally, however, they may be had with bronze-plated, real bronze, or brass mountings. The several styles of porcelain knobs are illustrated in Fig. 58. At (_a_) is shown the mineral knob, while at (_b_) and (_c_) are shown the porcelain and jet kinds.

=52. Wooden Knobs.=—Knobs made of wood are quite generally used. They are always turned from some hardwood, and are either stained or finished naturally. The wooden knob is usually forced on the shank by hydraulic pressure, and when securely fastened in this way makes a desirable and cheap knob. Many of the cheaper wooden knobs on the market are only glued or cemented to the shank, and, consequently, are not durable, as they pull off; they are therefore entirely undesirable. The mountings for the better knobs are made of iron, brass, or bronze, though they may be had with wooden roses. Mountings of wood, however, should not be used, as any severe side strain on the knob will split the rose with the grain of the wood. In Fig. 59 are shown two wooden knobs, the one at (_a_) having a metal rose, and the one at (_b_) a wooden rose.

=53. Cast-Iron Knobs.= Cheap locks are usually provided with knobs made of cast-iron, and, although they are strong and serviceable, they are seldom attractive. For finishing knobs of this kind, a bronze metal plating is usually employed. Cast-iron knobs are frequently made ornamental instead of plain. A typical cast-iron knob and rose are shown in Fig. 60.

=54. Stamped and Spun-Metal Knobs.=—Knobs made of sheet metal have lately come into extensive use, and they may be obtained in a large variety of designs and forms. Plain and ornamental steel knobs are illustrated in Fig. 61. Knobs ornamented in any style of design are in the market, and are artistic and usually well modeled.

=55. Bronze or Brass Knobs.=—Knobs of bronze or brass are always used in buildings of the better class, and all ornamental knobs of the higher grade are made of these materials. The best knobs are usually solid; that is, cast in one piece, with the exception that the shank is inserted. Others are made in composite form, consisting of a steel interior shell, or frame, over which is tightly drawn an external section, or covering, of wrought-bronze or brass of substantial thickness. The completed knob, if properly made in this manner, is practically as strong as the hollow-cast knob and resists bruising or other injury.

=56. Glass Knobs.=—The most expensive knobs made are those of cut glass with metal mountings. Several knobs of this kind are illustrated in Fig. 62. Cut-glass or crystal-glass knobs are very costly, the price depending on the style and the amount of cutting required and on the grade of glass used. The new method of mounting glass knobs allows for adjusting the knobs to doors of varying thicknesses, and also gives the knobs a handsome appearance, making them both durable and reliable.

=57. Styles and Sizes of Knobs.=—The pottery knobs, such as the mineral, jet, and porcelain knobs, are made only in spheroidal and oval shapes. The spheroidal knobs are 2¼ inches in diameter, and the oval knobs 2½ in. × 1¾ in.

Cast-iron and stamped-steel knobs are made spheroidal and of the box pattern, with plain and molded edges, both styles of knobs being about 2¼ inches in diameter.

Bronze and brass knobs are usually spheroidal or ball-shaped, and are 2¼ and 2½ inches in diameter. They are also made oval and egg-shaped, these latter styles being provided in two sizes, namely, 3 in. × 2 in. and 2½ in. × 1¾ in. The same general dimensions obtain for wooden and glass knobs.

=58. Lock Spindles.=—In supplying a pair of knobs, there is always included with them the _spindle_, which connects them and passes through the hub of the lock. The type of spindle generally used is the =common=, or =side-screw=, =spindle=, which is shown in Fig. 63. In this spindle, the knobs are secured by means of a knob screw passing through a hole in the knob and engaging with one of the threaded holes in the spindle. There are several holes in the spindle, so that the distance the knobs are apart may be adjusted properly. Should further adjustment be required, it is accomplished by placing thin washers at the end of the knob shank. This type of spindle is generally used with the cheap grades of trim, and should not be used in high-grade work.

There is a modern type of lock spindle, known as the =“screwless” spindle=, that permits the proper adjustment of the knobs without the use of washers and with less screws. These spindles overcome the general looseness and rattle found in the common type. A “screwless” spindle, known as the _Triplex_, is illustrated in Fig. 64. This spindle is a first-class device, and is constructed, as shown, of three parallel parts, triangular in section, which, together, form a square bar. To fasten the knob on this spindle, a setscrew in the knob bears on the center bar, and owing to their wedge form, the two side bars are forced apart and into frictional engagement with the spindle of the knob. The spindle itself is screwless, and there is nothing tending to loosen the setscrew, so that when once properly tightened, the knob will remain firm and in position on the spindle under all conditions of use. In some instances, this style of spindle has been condemned by owners and architects. This has been due largely to the fact that the mechanic did not set the screw tight against the spindle, thus allowing the knob to be easily pulled off. This is often caused by not using a screwdriver that exactly fits the head of the screw. When the knobs are put in place as they should be, this device always gives entire satisfaction.

There is another, though somewhat costly, type in the market, known as the =wrench spindle=. This spindle is illustrated in Fig. 65. As shown, the mechanism consists of a chuck, or vise-like arrangement, formed on the knob shank. When the nut _a_ is screwed on the jaws _b_, the tendency is to grip the spindle securely, the latter being solid and without screw holes. This type of spindle allows perfect adjustment.

Another type of knob spindle is the =swivel spindle=. This is used with front, vestibule, and other door locks that have stop-work, whereby the outside knob may be made operative or not, as desired. In order to accomplish this, the spindle is divided longitudinally, so that one end may rotate independently of the other.

The standard sizes of spindles for door locks, etc. are ₅/₁₆ and ⅜ inch square. Occasionally, spindles as large as ½ inch square are used for large knobs or handles, such as would be used with massive lock trim. For thumb knobs and locks and latches of this character, spindles ¼ inch square are employed.

=59. Key Tags for Hotel Use.=—Considerable confusion is frequently created by hotel guests taking with them on departure the key to their rooms. Formerly, hotel managers sought to prevent this practice by attaching to each key a large tag of iron or brass, generally serrated on the edges and made so cumbersome as to practically preclude its being carried in the pocket. Subsequently, tags made of red fiber of large size became popular. The usual forms of these large tags, whether of brass or fiber, are illustrated in Fig. 66. The use of key tags, however, is gradually being superseded by having the name of the hotel and number of the room stamped plainly on the key bow, the stamped name of the house serving for its quick identification and return by mail. The latest and best development in this detail consists in attaching to the key bow, by means of a short chain, either an ornamental disk bearing the name of the hotel and the number of the room, or a small ball, the name and key number still being retained on the key bow. In either case, the short pendant serves for convenience in the use of the key, diminishes the danger of misplacing it, and, if well designed, contributes to its appearance.

WINDOW SASH HARDWARE

SASH TRIM FOR DOUBLE-HUNG WINDOWS

=60. Sash Pulleys.=—The pulleys for the counterbalancing of double-hung, or sliding, windows, while apparently unimportant pieces of hardware, are worthy of much consideration in their selection, and in the preparation of the specifications care should be exercised to provide the best pulley consistent with the character of the work. It is good practice to furnish the millmen with a sample of the pulleys that are to be used, so that the frame will be properly mortised to receive them when the sash are hung. By this method, the necessity of exposing the case to the weather during the erection of the structure is obviated.

The common grades of sash pulleys are rough and cheap, and may be used for unimportant work and light sashes. For heavier sashes and important work, however, a better grade of larger and heavier construction should be used. It is important in specifying sash pulleys to stipulate the size of the pulley and to specify the diameter of the axle; also to state whether brass or bronze wheels and bronze faces are desired. Pulleys are supplied in 1¾-, 2-, 2¼-, 2½-, and 3-inch diameters. The required diameter of the pulley is determined by the thickness of the pulley stile and the diameter of the sash weight required to balance the sash.

The cases in which the pulleys are mounted in the cheaper grades are made of cast-iron, while in the better grades they are made of stamped metal. High-grade pulleys constructed of stamped metal are also provided; these are put together either by riveting the two faces of the pulley or by electrically welding them. The construction of a built-up steel pulley is illustrated in Fig. 67. The cases enclosing the pulleys are made of cast-iron, as illustrated in Fig. 68 (_a_), or they are constructed of stamped metal, as shown at (_b_). The ends of the facing of the case are made square, rounded, or auger-shaped, and are finished either rough, polished, or lacquered, or are faced with brass or bronze of any finish desired. The pulleys illustrated in Fig. 69 (_a_) are so constructed that the mortise in the frame may be readily formed by a special boring machine carrying three or four bits. This machine bores holes of a size to fit the several cylindrical portions of the stamped-metal case, as at _a, a_, a diagram of the mortising in the frame being illustrated at (_b_).

The better grades of pulleys may be procured with semi-steel, brass, or bronze wheels, and with plain axles or with ball or roller bearings. In the cheaper grades of sash pulleys, the axles are formed of common wire, while in the better grades they are made of either steel or gun metal ⅜ inch in diameter. In the best pulleys, the wheels are turned, to insure smoothness of motion, and are made with grooves for cord, ribbon, or chain. All steel pulleys built up as illustrated in Fig. 67 are of recent invention; they run smoothly, and are very easily applied. These pulleys are also made with ball or roller bearings, and may be obtained at a reasonable price.

There is a special type of sash pulleys that may be used for twin and triple windows, where it is necessary to form a narrow mullion between the windows. This pulley is known as the _Grant overhead sash pulley_, and is used as illustrated in Fig. 70. At (_a_) is a twin-window arrangement, showing the sash on the two sides double-hung, each sash being counterbalanced by means of one counterweight. By this means, the frame mullion between the two sashes can be made as narrow as 2 inches, which is an advantage where the maximum amount of daylight opening is desired. Frequently, in triple windows, the center sash, as well as the two side sashes, is made double-hung. In such a case, the arrangement of the overhead pulleys would be as shown in Fig. 70 (_b_). These pulleys provide a convenient means for arranging double-hung windows of this type, but sufficient room must be left in the head of the window to allow for the insertion of this pulley and the travel of the sash counterweights. The construction of this type of overhead pulley with roller bearings is shown in Fig. 71.

=61. Determination of Size of Sash or Frame Pulleys.=—The architect’s specifications should stipulate the diameter of the sash pulleys to be used in the work, and this item requires careful consideration. Where care is not exercised in this regard, either the pulleys will be so small that the weight will rub against the pulley stile, or they will be so large that the weight will rub the jamb casing on the opposite side of the pocket. Standard sash pulleys are made in sizes from 1¾ to 3 inches in diameter, varying by quarter inches. In determining the diameter of the pulley required for a particular window frame, a good rule is to multiply the thickness of the pulley stile by 2.25; thus, a ⅞-inch stile would require a 2-inch pulley; a 1⅛-inch stile, a 2½-inch pulley; and a 1⅜-inch stile, a 3-inch pulley. It is best to specify that pulleys for metallic frames shall be of the larger size, namely, 3 inches in diameter; and also that these pulleys shall have ⅜-inch axles.

=62. Sash Cords and Chains.=—The =sash cords= by which the sashes are attached to the counterweights in double-hung windows are usually furnished by the carpenter, and are so specified. However, they may be specified under hardware. The specification for the sash cord should state both the size and the maker’s name, and for good standard work _Sansom Spot_ or _Silver Lake_ sash cords are the best that can be procured. Table VI will be found convenient in determining the diameter of the cord and the consequent size by number, as well as the size of the sash pulley.

TABLE VI

STANDARD SIZE OF SASH CORD FOR PULLEYS

----+--------+---------+---------+---------+--------- | | Average | | | Size|Diameter| Weight | Average | Heaviest| Smallest No. | of Cord|per Dozen|Number of|Weight to|Pulley to | Inch | Hanks | Feet per| Be Used | Be Used | | Pounds | Pound | Pounds | Inches ----+--------+---------+---------+---------+--------- 6 | ³/₁₆ | 18 | 66 | 5 | 1½ 7 | ⁷/₃₂ | 22 | 55 | 15 | 1¾ 8 | ¼ | 27 | 44 | 25 | 2 9 | ⁹/₃₂ | 33 | 36 | 35 | 2¼ 10 | ⁵/₁₆ | 44 | 27 | 45 | 2½ 12 | ⅜ | 60 | 20 | 55 | 3 ====+========+=========+=========+=========+=========

=Sash chains= are made in the form illustrated in Fig. 72, and may be had either in steel, red metal, or bronze. The sash chains in the market are usually made in four sizes, being numbered from 0 to 3. The makers, however, have no agreement regarding these standards, so that the numbering is not uniform; one manufacturer’s No. 0 chain may be his heaviest make, while a chain of the same number furnished by another maker may be the lightest chain that he manufactures. In order to provide against this discrepancy when specifying, it is well to name the maker of the chain. The lightest sash chain will support sashes weighing from 40 to 75 pounds, while the heaviest will carry sashes that weigh from 150 to 250 pounds.