Part 2

The darts are placed the same as on a waist. But below the waist line F they curve, as shown. The best way to produce a good result is to draw straight lines down from 11, 12, 13 and 14, drawing them inside or outside of these lines, as shown. It will thus be seen that 23 comes nearly in the centre of the second dart, because more curve is here needed for the hips, while the space between the darts is drawn so that the distance between 24 and 25 is only a little more than at 12 to 13. In this way, when the darts are sewn up they will take the shape, or the seams will shape themselves like the centre-piece between the darts.

When dividing the side-body, from 18 to 19, directly under the arm draw a straight line down and let the spring on each side of this line be equal, as P and O. Also take out about one-fourth inch above the waist-line along the side-body seams, to curve them more to the shape.

From 15 to 20 a straight line is also drawn, and an equal amount is put each side of this line, over the hips, to R and O.

It will be noticed that point 18 is in the middle, between line E and the line K, or point S on Fig. 4; and point 15 is midway between 18 and line K; the width of the side-body, at the waist, is made wider; the line from 18 is always drawn straight down, then divide the distance from point 19 and 2, the centre of which is 20; and from 15 through 20 draw the other line.

FIG. 8. POLONAISE.

This is drafted in the same manner as the one given in Fig. 7. As, however, this is a long garment the amount of drapery must be increased; therefore below the hip line D we spring out till at bottom, point F, it amounts to one inch. At 4 there is one inch over line; at 6, on side-body, one inch; there draw a straight line from 4 down, through this inch, and curve the one-half inch over it. On the side, from 5 to 7, is 1½ inches, the same at bottom.

Where 3 and X, of fore-part, are located lay the side-body on top of it, 1 resting on 3, and point 3, of side-body, resting on X, then finish the line from X to 14, by the way the side-body lays, and fix the length also by the side-body. Put in two darts, letting them run only 4 inches below the hip line.

FIGS. 9 AND 10. THE SLEEVE.

Commence by drawing lines O-E and O-F. Use the arm-hole size to produce the sleeve, and go down from O to B one-fourth of this; A is in the middle between O and B. Draw lines across.

From O to F is one-half of arm-hole, and from there draw a line down to K.

From B to F draw a straight line and halve it, which will be point H; and from this last also draw a short line at right angles with the diagonal line from H to J.

Measure the length of line B-F and take one-third of it and place it from H to J.

Now, using J as pivot, sweep from line at top, point 4, around to the front and the back; from B curve line past 5 to this sweep. Where the sweep crosses line at G draw a line down to K.

Go down from B to C three-fourths of an inch, and from here measure the length of arm to E.

Mark a point midway between B and E, which gives D, and draw a line across.

In the middle, between the two parallel lines at back, mark a point _f_.

Now lay the square in such a position on the pattern that 5 inches will touch point E and the long arm will touch _f_, then draw along the bottom, from E to N, and to _f_.

Begin to curve from C, past L to _f_, and curve to N.

Go in from D 1½ inch and draw the front-seam of the sleeve.

From X, where the curve strikes line B, begin to draw the under-sleeve parallel with upper part 6 to 1.

Measure from B around the sleeve-head to C, and apply number of inches obtained to X, and measure past 1 towards 3, the measure of arm-hole, and 2 inches more. If the upper-sleeve measures 11 inches place 11 on to X and measure 16 inches, adding 2 inches more to line at 3 for a 16-sleeve. Wherever point 3 is located begin to draw back arm-seam to bottom by running straight down, curving out to 2, or as much inside of line 7 as _f_ is outside of it.

FIG. 10.

Draw the line O-G and O-F. From O to C go down one-third, less one-half inch, and draw line over to K. In the middle, between C and O, draw also a line from B to H.

From O to G is one-half of arm-hole size, and draw a line from G downwards.

From C begin to curve the sleeve-top past I to H, touching the top line at I. From L to E apply the length of sleeve. Make F 1¼ inches lower down than E.

From E to N is an average of 5 inches. Draw a line from H past K to M and N, curving it inside of K about one-half inch and curve the line only a trifle below the elbow. Go in from D 1½ inch, and draw the inside seam from C to E.

This finishes the upper-sleeve. For the under-sleeve draw from C, curving under straight line to L, thence to J. Point J is 1 inch inside of H. From J draw down to within one-half inch of M and to N.

The front-seam is the same as the upper-sleeve from C to E and N.

In drawing any sleeve use the measure of the arm-hole, and bear in mind that this manner of drafting has the seams already included.

FIG. 11. SKIRTS.

Cutting and making a dress skirt, of any style and kind, is sometimes considered of very little importance. By many dressmakers the work is entrusted to inexperienced hands and blocked out by a pattern which will not fit the form. Many fine costumes lack style because the laws of cutting skirts for the different figures have not been observed.

The fashion for the present, and for some time past, requires the skirt to be fitted with as much care as any other part of the dress. All fullness must be so arranged as to fall into the back breadths of the train. The sloping of the bottom must be proportionate, so as to give a straight even effect across the front and sides and allow the train to suddenly spring out at the lower part of the back widths.

The careful sloping of the gores at the sides causes the train to fall into a fan-like sweep. The necessity of fine slopes, and a difference of those in different costumes, as well as for different figures, will be readily appreciated when we observe the use for which the dress is intended.

In a walking dress, as it should be to be in harmony with style and the present demands of fashion, the skirts should adhere closely all around the front and sides, leaving whatever fullness there may be at the back. In order to gain this, darts are required between the breadths, which reduce the size needed over the hips down to the size at waist. As the hips proportionately increase at a given ratio at the sides it must be evident that, in order that the skirt may fall down fairly over the hips, these darts at side must be larger there, while towards the front they must be smaller.

The bottom should have a regular sweep. This sweep can be gained the easiest by laying the gores in a closing position on the table, drawing a straight line along the centre of the front and extending upwards about the same length as the skirt. At the centre of the back breadth another line is drawn far enough up to cross the first line. In this shape the two lines would represent a cone; at the point attach a string to a pin driven into the table, and extending this string to the lower length of the skirt sweep around the bottom—this will produce a correct effect in every case.

The front width is now cut wide enough so that only one additional width is needed at each side. As we have already said, much depends upon goring the sides as regards fitting the hips, but on stout ladies extra care must be taken that the front be also sufficient to cover the round form of the body. The defect liable to occur in this point has the same result as not sloping enough at the side for large hips, namely, the skirt will hitch-up on the waist-band.

Putting on a skirt to the band is of equal importance. A dart in the apron or front width gives sufficient fullness over the round of the body in front; so also do darts at side. All the rest of the fullness should be pleated or gathered into the few inches left of the band after the front and sides have been sewed to the band.

We should not advise any one to cut out a skirt, whether short or with train, with out a good pattern, unless they understand how to draft one and know the points of the different shapes in gores.

Such skirt patterns we are prepared to forward to any address, on application, but in order that students may acquire an idea of how to cut them, Fig. 11 will show the general form and shape of them.

Draw line A, and make it 45 inches long, and mark off all the distances on the line, as shown by the number of inches given at all these points; draw lines across at right angles to line A.

Draw a line from point 6 to 12 and curve it to within one-half inch of 6, and then curve slightly one-half inch below line at centre to 6½ on line A. This finishes top of front breadth; connect 12 and 45, which finishes the bottom.

Finish the top of side-breadth by drawing lines from 7 to 11, curving these lines like Figure; at the bottom, curve from 12 to 42.

Connect points 32 and 42, also 22 and 12, by straight lines, which finishes the back part; this will give a skirt 38 inches long and the prevailing width.

Lay the front part, line A, on the fold of the goods.

In sewing to the band the front and side-breadths are left plain while the back is pleated in three or four large pleats.

FIGS. 12, 13, 14. SACK JACKET.

It will be seen that every shape and style of garment must be drafted in the same manner as the principle employed in the construction of the waist-body or basque.

We first commence to draw the back line B and O to F (Fig. 12).

From O down, on the first line, place three-fourths of an inch, and from O over to F, one-eighth of the breast-measure, or simply 2 inches, on average size.

Starting at ¾, measure down to C, the length of natural waist, and to D, the full parts of the hips; also to E the length wanted.

From C up to B place the height under the arm. Now at every one of these points draw lines across, all at right angles with the first line.

Go in from C to N 1½ inch, and then draw a line from ¾, at top, to N, and from the last point to E, and curve the back-line, as shown from ¾, past R.

From N to M make the width of back, at waist, 2 inches or more, as desired.

Starting at R, place the width of back to G and draw a line up to S.

In the middle, between O and B, fix point A, and from there draw a line over to J.

From the point where lines A-J and G-S cross draw a line to F.

Raise above J one-half inch to S and curve the shoulder from F to S; then from S go inside of line at J and curve the arm-hole of the back to I. This last point is midway between J and G.

From I draw a line to N, then commence at I and draw line for the side-seam to 8, going inside of straight line a trifle and thence with a decided curve to M.

Draw a right-angle line with the waist-line F down to 3 from N, and to 4 from 2.

Now whatever the distance E is drawn from 3 must be placed from 4 to 5, and the back may be finished by drawing the line from 2 to 5.

In case it is desired to make a narrow back, point E may be nearer to 3; in such case point 5 would also be nearer to 4.

Cut the back out, and in order to draw the side-body lay it on the paper in such a manner that there will be room enough to cut it out without piecing.

THE SIDE-BODY.—FIG. 13.

Lines D-F and O are extended over. From 2 to 10 is 1 inch in every case.

Draw from I, along the back, to 8, and from thence begin to separate from the back and curve to 10 and down to 6, which is the point on the back where line O and the line from 2 downwards cross. From 6 down give this line a nice curve, not springing out too much nor making it too flat—a medium is what is desired.

From B to K is one-fourth of the breast-measure.

Curve from I to H and K.

About 1 inch inside of K draw a line down to L, which should make the side-body as wide from 8 to H as 10 to L.

At right angles with waist-line draw one down from 10 to 3, and another from L to 4.

Now whatever the distance is from 3 to 5 should be placed from 4 to 6, and then the seam from L is drawn past 11 to 6.

Make the length at bottom one-half inch longer at 5 to 6; also notice that the distance from 7 to 11 may be a little more than that from 9 to 6, as more ease over the hip, at side, is desirable.

THE FRONT.—FIG. 14.

All the lines are extended over on the paper, and the side-body and back are laid in the position as when they were drafted, and as shown.

First measure from B to V, one-half the breast-measure, and draw line A up and down.

From B to R is the measure to the front of the arm, where a line is drawn up. From P back, place one-sixth of the breast to N, here draw a line up and down, as shown.

Measure up from star on side, marked Z, to line at N, the front length less the width of the top of back, and where this reaches on the line fix the height.

From this height draw a line to A, which gives the height of shoulder.

From P as pivot sweep from N to 21 for neck. Place the length of back shoulder from F to S on to N, on line N, and where it reaches will be point 22.

Drop one-half inch below line and curve from 22 to 23, which is one-fourth above the line, to N. Also curve arm-hole from 22 through R to H.

Draw the front line one-half inch inside at 21, curving outside one-half inch near V, coming back to line at U, and outside one-half inch at bottom to point 20.

From H, through L, draw line to 11.

Whatever the distance from 11 to 24 is place over from 11 to 13 and then curve from L, through 12, to 13. Sweep the bottom from 13 by a point 1 inch back of N and flatten this curve near 14.

Midway between R and V fix point 2, and midway between 2 and R point 1.

Measure the distance from the front at U to 10 and from 2 to C.

Deduct the half size of waist from this last and the remainder is taken out in darts.

From U to 12 is 2 inches.

From 12 to 9 is one-half of what is to be taken out in darts.

From 9 to 8 is always three-fourths of an inch.

From 8 to 7 is another dart.

Fix a point in the centre of the darts and draw a straight line from 1 and 2 to 6 and 5; and at right angles with waist-line draw lines from centre of dart down to the bottom. Now, one-third of the height under arm, down, fix point 3, and make 4 one-half inch more.

Draw the darts from 3 and 4 through the points, as shown, to 15 and 14.

FIG. 15. DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET.

Draft by measure—breast, 36; waist, 24; and hip, 40. Length to waist 14½, and full length, 26.

By using these measures we will endeavor to show how to draft a jacket, each piece separately, thus doing away with the over-lapping of patterns as it occurs when it is drafted altogether, as in our previous articles on proportionate cutting. It is the same principle, but more practical, as a pattern can thus be cut whole in the skirt.

Commence by drawing the back construction line from O to L and O to P.

From O down is three-fourths inch to T.

From O to E is one-fourth of breast—9 inches.

From T measure down to the waist 14½ inches, and the full length to L, 26 inches, and from O over on top line to 5 two inches, and curve the top, T, to 5.

B is midway between O and E.

K is 6 inches below the waist; now draw all the lines across.

At F go in 1½ inch to back, and draw a curved line from the centre seam of the back, from T to 1½, and spring out three-fourths inch at 9, thence to L.

From E to 7 is one-third and one inch, equal to 7 inches. Draw a line up from 7 to 3, and one from 5 to 3.

Raise above 3 one-half inch to 4, then curve the shoulder-seam of the back; form also the curved line from 4 to 6.

Point 6 is midway between 3 and 7. Make the width of the back at waist 2 inches, and from 2 draw a straight line down to the bottom.

Now curve the side seam from 6 past 2 to 10 at bottom, which point is three-fourths of an inch outside of the straight line, also connect L and 10 by a line.

THE SIDE-BODY.

Cut out the back and lay it on the paper in such a manner that the breast-line will lay on the same line further towards the front, so that there will be sufficient room at the bottom to draft out the side-body whole. Now, first draw along the edge of the back from 6 to 2; go in at 2 one inch, and curve from the blade down to 13.

At 13 draw a straight line down, and curve out from 13 to 18; this last will be exactly underneath point 8 of the back, and from here to the bottom draw it with a slight curve to 20, which is the same length as point 10 of the back.

From 14 to 13 is 2 inches, and make the distance from 11 to 12 the same; now draw a straight line from 12 to 14, and down to the bottom.

Go out from 15 to 16 one inch, and curve seam from 14 to 19, which should not be over 1½ inch outside of straight line. Draw line from 20 to 19.

THE FRONT.

Lay the side-body on breast-line and back in position against side-body, so that the breast-line of each lays correct and straight, then measure from I on centre of the back to the centre of the front D, half-breast, or 18 inches; at this last point draw a line up and down for front line.

Point 12 of the side-body will now be the same as point 21 of the front; draw down to 27 a line with a slight curve to shape in at waist; also draw a straight line down from 27 to 35 at bottom.

From P to C is one-sixth, or 3 inches, and the same to 23, now sweep the neck from P.

From C, which is one-half inch above the top line for erect or ordinary builds, on the line draw one to B on the back.

Now measure the length of shoulder on the back from 5 to 4, and place the same from C to 22, and curve a little above it, as shown in Fig. 15. From G on side-body forward to front of arm is one-fourth, or 4½ inches, where a line is drawn from H; then finish arm-hole from 22 to H and 21.

Finish the side-seam by going out at 31 1 inch to 33, and curve seam to 34; also locate the length by laying the side-body, point 12, on 21, and where 19 comes is 34.

From C, by 34, sweep the bottom of front and straighten this some in the centre.

At the centre of breast-line, beyond D, put one-half of breast, and curve the front line from 23 to waist at S, where it comes back to the straight line, and thence to the bottom at 30, where it is one-half inch outside of it. For a double-breasted jacket make the lap 2½ inches at breast, 2 at waist, and 2¼ at bottom. Whatever the size of the draft at waist, from points S to 1½ on back, exceeds the actual measure must be taken out in darts.

In this Figure we take out one dart only, starting in the centre, J, which is between H and D, and take out between points 25 and 26, the full amount which will be about 2½ or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24, two-thirds above 25, and finishing about 4 inches below the hip-line.

In case two darts are preferred they are put in as already shown in previous Figures.

FIG. 16. SACK JACKET.

This shows the manner of drafting a jacket with an extra piece under the arm and only one dart in the front. The correctness of the lines, and the simplicity of the process, will be of much benefit to our students. This method is the same as we have given in several different styles, and therefore it is drafted in a similar manner. It requires only one method to draft all kinds of garments, and our aim in giving the different shapes is to familiarize our readers with its application to a variety of shapes and styles, so that whatever garment they may be called to cut they will be able to do it.

Let us take a size—36 breast, 24 waist, with a length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching down from neck 15½ inches.

In drafting, first draw the line O-F.

From O go down three-fourths inch for the top of the back.

From the top of the back to D is the length to the waist, 15½ inches; from the same point down to the bottom of the garment measure 30 inches to F.

At D go in to point 14 1½ inch. Then from the top of the back to 14 draw a straight line, and also draw one from 14 to F, curve slightly over the line below 14, past 20, to F. Make the width from 14 to 2 two inches, and run a line parallel with back-line from 2 to 29, and curve it a trifle, as shown on the Figure.

From O go down to C one-quarter of the breast, which is 9 inches, and draw a line across. Draw a line from O over to K at right angles with the back-line.

In the middle, between O and C, fix a point marked B and draw a line over to N. From C to G is one-third breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches, and draw a line at right angles with line C-G. From G to H is one-fourth breast, equal to 4½ inches, there draw a line at right angles with the one under arm.

From 1, centre of back, to J, at the front of the breast, place one-half of the breast-measure, equal to 18 inches, and at J draw a right angle line up and down like line K-J and S. From O to 13 is 2 inches.

From N to 13 draw a line, and then, commencing at 13, curve the shoulder, letting it rise above the last line one-half inch to 14.

Starting three-fourths inch inside of line G begin to curve the arm-hole past 12 to 17 and H. In the middle, between N and G, fix the point to start seams from for the back. Draw line from thence past 19 to 2 and 29—this makes the back with narrow shoulders.

To draw the first side-body place from 2 to 3 one inch, curve the line from 19 to 3, gradually beginning to separate below 19 without curving too much, care being taken to get a neat curve. Below 3 curve toward the back till at hip, 21, it will meet the back, and thence downwards, till at the bottom it will over-lap the back 1 inch to 30.

Make the width of side-body at the top any distance desired, say 3 inches, and make it the same at waist, or from 3 to 4, 3 inches. Then curve from 17 to 4.

Lay a long straight-edge, closing at 17, and three-fourths inch from point 4; while in this position mark a line along it from the hip-line downward, and connect it by a curve from 4 to 24.

Go in from 4 to 5 a distance of three-fourths inch, and curve from 17 to 5, but be careful to commence to separate side-body only 1½ inch below 17. Lay a straight-edge, as before, at 17, and three-fourths inch from 5, so that it will lay towards front, then from hip downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from 5 to meet this at hip, 23.

From 17 to 18 may be only 1½ or 2 inches, according to the size—2 inches will be sufficient for a 36 breast.

Draw a straight line to 6 and take out a slight curve to shape it to the form. Again, lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 6, and mark along it from the hips downward; curve from 6 to hip.

Commencing at 18, curve the front to 7, taking out one-half inch, then lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 7 mark along it below the hips and finish the curve from 7 to 25.

To produce the front, place from K to P one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, also the same from K to 16. From P to B draw a line, then place the same distance as on the back shoulder from 13 to 24 on to P to produce point 15, or the length of front shoulder, curve it above this line, and at 15 drop it one-half inch below. At 15 curve the arm-hole to H, going outside of the line enough to give the arm-hole a good shape, but under no consideration go beyond point H—rather go inside.

Curve the front-line one-fourth inch inside of 16, and outside at J one-half inch, and coming back to R, where it should spring out to the bottom one-half inch at S.

Add beyond last curve 1 inch for the lap, on a single-breasted jacket, all the way down.