Part 7

In 1883 the pegs were swept away by a great, avalanche. Some were later replaced by daring climbers, but the ascent remained so dangerous that it was seldom attempted. From 1899 no ascents were made until 1912, when two adventurous youths fastened ropes to the few remaining pegs and attained the summit. Following this, the dome was frequently climbed. In 1919 a public-spirited citizen of San Francisco donated the money to build a first-class trail to the summit. This was constructed under the auspices of the Sierra Club, and the once perilous ascent finally made safe to all.

The round trip to the summit is one of the most thrilling and scenic one-day Yosemite excursions. Parties should start early and carry canteens. From ~Happy Isles~ the main ~Glacier Point Trail~ (Trail Trip 1) should be followed (take the Mist Trail if walking) to the top of the ~Nevada Falls~ zigzags. Here we turn left and follow the ~Clouds Rest Trail~ (Trail Trip 5). A climb of 800 feet above the Little Yosemite Valley takes us to a small stream. About 200 yards further, in a fine grove of Jeffrey pine and incense cedar, the Clouds Rest Trail bears to the right along a bench, while our trail climbs the long switchbacks to the left. The remaining 500-foot climb is thru dense forest. Anderson's old trail crosses our route in one place and zigzags up the hillside about a quarter mile eastward. Just below the ridge and about 200 yards to the right of the trail is a spring near the big pile of stones, which are the only relics of Captain Anderson's camp. Canteens should be filled here, as no water will be found higher. A short climb takes us to the crest of the ridge at the lowest point between ~Quarter Domes~ (Alt. 8276 and 8160) at the northeast and ~Half Dome~ at the southwest.

At the ridge top is a forest of lodgepole pine and a sudden transition to pure fir as we cross to the northwestern slope where the climate is more severe. Climbing beneath these firs we suddenly emerge at the crest and obtain a wide view of the ~High Sierra~ on one side and the depths of ~Tenaya Canyon~ on the other. A few minutes' walk along the open ridge takes us to the rustic entrance which marks the beginning of the foot trail. The pile of timbers and boards nearby were hewn and split by Captain Anderson to be used for his Half Dome Hotel. The foot-trail now climbs abruptly 250 feet by short zigzags and stairs to "~The Saddle~," along the crest of which we continue to the base of the final ascent.

If tennis shoes are to be used they should be put on at this point. The tool-box nearby contains ropes and safety belts for the use of the public, but the ascent is perfectly safe without them.

From here an 800-foot double cable railing with iron posts every ten feet leads to the top. On the steep slopes are footholds, and at one place a fifty-foot ladder carries us over the most dangerous part of the ascent. Turning to the right at the top of the cableway we follow the monuments across the surprisingly flat summit to the brink of the great northeast face, where we find an overhanging shelf of granite. The panorama at all sides is inexpressibly grand, but some of the valley features suffer by being dwarfed in the great distances below.

The descent should be started not later than 3 to 4 p.m. in order to reach Yosemite before dark.

TRAIL TRIP 15

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT _via_ THE LEDGE TRAIL

(2.5 miles. Average 4 hours climb)

Next to Half Dome, the ~Ledge Trail~ is the most thrilling of Yosemite climbs. The ascent was formerly quite dangerous, but in 1918 a safe foot-trail was constructed. The record ascent is fifty-three minutes, but this is a steep, hard, 3200-foot climb and will take the average individual three to five hours.

The trail starts from the Happy Isles Road, turning southward just east of the new ~Le Conte Lodge~. It climbs the talus slope above ~Camp Curry~ and turns westward up a steep ledge. As the trail mounts to view-commanding heights there are many unusual and impressive glimpses into the depths below. Reaching a steep canyon, the trail turns sharply to the left and climbs beside a small creek. ~The water is polluted~ and to drink it is dangerous. Near the top, the trail gradually becomes less and less steep and finally crosses the canyon rim only a few feet distant from ~Glacier Point~ and the ~Overhanging Rock~. Glacier Point Hotel is about 200 yards southward.

TRAIL TRIP 16

GLACIER POINT TO SENTINEL DOME

(Round trip, 2 miles in 2 hours)

The short excursion from ~Glacier Point~ to the summit of ~Sentinel Dome~ is well worth while. The round trip can easily be made afoot in two hours and many hikers include it in their "Glacier Point" day.

From the hotel we follow the ~Chinquapin Road~ about a quarter of a mile. Just beyond a spring at the left of the road, the trail turns to the right and climbs abruptly beneath the firs and pines. Gradually the forest becomes more open and park-like, and the firs are replaced by hardy Jeffrey pines. During the last quarter mile of the ascent we pass over weathered granite which has exfoliated in slabs near the top. At the rounded summit is a gnarled and wind-blown Jeffrey pine--probably the most photographed tree in the park. To the east is an exceptionally fine panorama of the High Sierra.

In returning to Glacier Point we follow the trail to the south, intersecting the road about 300 yards away. Here we turn left, noting the soft decomposing granite which seems particularly susceptible to weather conditions. The distance beyond to the hotel is one and a half miles.

TRAIL TRIP 17

GLACIER POINT TO FORT MONROE _via_ POHONO TRAIL

Reverse of Trail Trip 18

(11.7 miles--5 hours. Round trip from Yosemite, 24 miles--13 hours)

This is one of the most beautiful Yosemite trails. With very little climbing the trail parallels the south rim thru delightfully attractive forests and wild-flower gardens, emerging from time to time to reveal vast views across and into the valley. The round trip from Yosemite to Glacier Point and thence to Fort Monroe via the Pohono Trail, returning to the valley via the Wawona Road is too long a trip to be attempted by the average walker in one day. It is best to stay over night at the Glacier Point Hotel, starting early the next morning.

Leaving the ~Glacier Point Hotel~ we follow the road southwestward about two miles, turning to the right at the ~Pohono Trail~ sign. We now follow thru a dense fir forest for one mile, emerging at the canyon rim at ~The Fissures~. These are great cracks only a few feet wide and hundreds of feet deep. Just beyond is ~Taft Point~ (Alt. 7503). From here is a wonderful view, especially of the sheer 3500-foot precipices of ~El Capitan~ and ~Three Brothers~ rising as massive buttresses of the great north wall.

Swinging south along the rim for a short distance, the trail again turns westward thru the fir forests passing beautiful small meadows and wild-flower gardens and descending to ~Bridalveil Creek~. The bridge has been destroyed but a foot-log is in place. There is fair fishing in this stream but the fish are small. Bearing west and north and climbing slightly, the trail emerges at ~Dewey Point~ (Alt. 7316), another of the promontories of the south rim. From here the ~Cathedral Rocks~ and ~Leaning Tower~ are viewed from an unusual angle, and ~El Capitan~ and ~Ribbon Falls~ dominate the opposite wall. Following the rim westward about half a mile we reach ~Crocker Point~ (Alt. 7090), from which is obtained another vast outlook. Descending 430 feet thru the forest we cross a small stream and emerge at ~Stanford Point~ (Alt. 6659), another prominent lookout on the southern ramparts. About half a mile westward one sees ~Old Inspiration Point~, from which Yosemite was first seen by white men on March 21, 1851. Retracing our path a short distance, we turn to the right and cross ~Meadow Brook~, which flows over ~Widow's Tears~ a quarter mile below. The vicinity is a Mecca for flower lovers. The trail continues westward, dropping 1400 feet in the next one and a half miles to ~Fort Monroe~ (Alt. 5540), an old stage relay station on the ~Wawona Road~. Yosemite is eight miles eastward by this road.

TRAIL TRIP 18

FORT MONROE TO GLACIER POINT _via_ POHONO TRAIL

Reverse of Trail Trip 17

(11.7 miles--5 hours. Round trip from Yosemite, 24 miles--13 hours)

The ~Pohono Trail~ trip is one of the most beautiful of Yosemite excursions. Striking eastward from Fort Monroe on the Wawona Road, it traverses a delightful wooded country in which are some of the finest wild-flower gardens of the park. From time to time it emerges at the rugged ramparts of the south wall and affords many vast panoramas. The round trip from Yosemite to Fort Monroe via Pohono Trail and return to the valley via the Short Trail is too long to be attempted by the average walker in one day. Even the trip to Glacier Point by this route is a long one, and it is suggested that the itinerary outlined in Trail Trip 17 be followed in preference. At Fort Monroe, an old stage relay station on the Wawona Road, is a fairly good auto camp. From here one may visit all the lookout points on the south rim by an easy one-day walk, or may continue to the Glacier Point Hotel (11.7 miles), returning the next day.

The ~Pohono Trail~ turns eastward from the Wawona Road at ~Fort Monroe~, eight miles distant from Yosemite. In the long steady climb of 1400 feet in the first two miles we cross two small mountain streams and near the top of the ascent pass about a quarter mile south of ~Old Inspiration Point~ (Alt. 6603), from which Yosemite was first seen by white men on March 21, 1851. The gently sloping trail now winds beneath the firs thru most luxurious gardens of wild-flowers. Shortly we cross ~Meadow Brook~ which, a quarter mile below, plunges over ~Widow's Tears~. Trending northward about half a mile we now emerge at ~Stanford Point~ (Alt. 6659), one of the promontories of the south rim. From here, as from all other lookouts along the top of the great south wall, is a vast panorama. Retracing our path a short distance we turn to the left, cross another small brook, and climb 350 feet in the next half mile to ~Crocker Point~ (Alt. 7090). Closely paralleling the rim for another half mile we halt at ~Dewey Point~ (Alt. 7316), the imposing apex of one of the great granite buttresses. ~Cathedral Rocks~ and the ~Leaning Tower~ are here viewed from an unusual angle. To the northward ~El Capitan~ dominates the north wall and ~Ribbon Falls~ is most advantageously seen.

A long detour to the southeast now takes us into the ~Bridalveil Creek Basin~. The trail bridge has been destroyed, but a foot-log is in place. Fishing is fair, but the trout are small. Turning again eastward we continue thru the fir forests, passing beautiful small meadows and wild-flower gardens until we again approach the canyon rim, which we follow northward for a short distance to ~The Fissures~. These are great cracks only a few feet wide and hundreds of feet deep. Just beyond is ~Taft Point~ (Alt. 7503). From here is a wonderfully vast view, especially of the sheer 3500-foot precipices of ~El Capitan~ and ~Three Brothers~ on the north wall. Following eastward along ~Profile Cliff~, our trail again enters the fir and lodgepole pine forest and leads across the gently sloping plateau about one mile to the ~Glacier Point Road~. We here turn left and an easy walk of two miles takes us to the ~Glacier Point Hotel~, where excellent accommodations will be found. The lookout point and overhanging rock are about 200 yards northward. For trail trips from Glacier Point consult Trail Trips 16 to 23.

TRAIL TRIP 19

GLACIER POINT TO WAWONA _via_ ALDER CREEK TRAIL

(20.5 miles--7 hours)

This is one of the oldest trails in the region and was the main thorofare to Yosemite prior to the construction of roads. The "old timers" like to tell of the famous hostelries along the route--Clark's, Westfall's, Peregoy's and McCauley's--which have long since ceased to be. The trail is not of great importance from the scenic stand-point, but offers a short-cut between its termini. Throughout most of its course it is maintained in good condition.

From ~Glacier Point~ we follow the road southwestward about two and a half miles. A short distance beyond the Pohono Trail turn-off, our trail branches to the right and enters the fir and pine forest. In the next four miles we first climb over a low spur and then descend into the basin of ~Bridalveil Creek~, where we cross the ~Glacier Point Road~ at ~Peregoy Meadow~. This is a good camping place and forage is abundant. Fishing in Bridalveil Creek is rather poor near the road. Bearing southward, our trail emerges in one mile at ~Westfall Meadow~, another good campsite. Passing across an almost imperceptible divide we cross the headwaters of ~Alder Creek~ and follow along the west side of its canyon thru a beautiful forest of western yellow pine, sugar pine, fir and cedar, part of which has lately been logged. About three and a half miles below Westfall Meadow is ~Empire Meadows~, where feed is abundant and camp sites good. Fishing is fair but the trout are small. The nearest campsite downstream is at the creek crossing three miles further. Here there is a fair camping place but forage is scarce.

From this crossing Wawona is about six and a half miles distant. Rising a short distance above the stream, the trail follows the 5500-foot level detouring around the west flank of a well-wooded mountain. About three miles from the crossing, a trail to the right descends to ~Alder Creek Ranger Station~ on the ~Wawona Road~ about one mile distant. We now continue around the mountain, gradually bearing to the southeast. The trail in the last two miles is rather rough and zigzags abruptly down to the main road, which it intersects a short distance from ~Wawona Bridge~. The hotel, store and postoffice are just beyond.

TRAIL TRIP 20

GLACIER POINT TO OSTRANDER LAKE

(13.5 miles--5 hours)

At the very source of Bridalveil Creek and only five hours' easy walk from Glacier Point lies the picturesque Ostrander Lake, famous since the early days for its splendid fishing. The round trip from Glacier Point Hotel (twenty-seven miles) may be made in one day by good hikers, but it is far better to camp at the lake at least one night in order to be there for the best fishing. Motorists, by parking machines at the trail junction six miles southwest of Glacier Point on the Chinquapin Road, can easily make the round trip (fifteen miles) in one day.

From ~Glacier Point~ we follow the ~Chinquapin Road~ about six miles to the point where a sign indicates the ~Buck Camp and Ostrander Lake Trail~ turning to the left. This trail bears south, crossing a small tributary to ~Bridalveil Creek~, then continues through the open lodgepole pine forest and crosses the main stream about two miles from the road. A short distance beyond, the ~Buck Camp Trail~ (Trail Trip 21) continues up the south branch of the creek. Our trail turns abruptly to the east (left) and again crosses the main stream, following up the northeast bank. In the first two miles the trail is good, but the remaining three miles are somewhat rough and steep.

~Ostrander Lake~ (Alt. 8600) is beautifully set in a glacial amphitheater on the north side of ~Horse Ridge~ (Alt. 9600), which towers 1000 feet above. It is shallow on the north and west sides but deep under the bluffs, where are generally deep snowbanks. The lake was stocked with rainbow trout in 1892, 1893, 1899 and 1911, and with eastern brook trout in 1893 and 1899. Fishing is excellent.

~Buena Vista Lake~ (see Trail Trip 22) is about four miles distant and may be reached by walking southeast about two miles through open forest (no trail) on the north slope of Horse Ridge and joining the ~Buena Vista Trail~ in ~Buena Vista Canyon~. Here we may turn south up the canyon, at the head of which is Buena Vista Lake.

TRAIL TRIP 21

GLACIER POINT TO CHILNUALNA FALLS OR JOHNSON LAKE _via_ THE BUCK CAMP TRAIL

(15.5 miles--6 hours)

The old ~Buck Camp Trail~ connects Yosemite with the favorite hunting grounds of the Chowchilla Tribe. It traverses a beautifully wooded country but offers no startling scenic effects.

From ~Glacier Point~ we follow the road southwestward about six miles to a junction, where our trail branches to the left. Bearing southward we cross a small stream and traverse a rather flat lodgepole pine forest, finally fording ~Bridalveil Creek~. Just beyond, and at a distance of about two miles from the road, the ~Ostrander Lake Trail~ (Trail Trip 20) turns to the left. We continue southward, crossing a tributary of Bridalveil Creek and gradually mounting the slope beyond. As the trail turns southeast along the flat ridge, the wooded canyon of ~Alder Creek~ is seen to the west. Two miles further on an almost imperceptible pass is traversed. Just beyond is the source of one of the northern tributaries to ~Chilnualna Creek~. This we follow for about two miles to the main stream, where are good camp sites and abundant forage. Fishing is fair but the trout are small. One mile further is the main ~Chilnualna Falls Trail~. Westward one and a half miles is the ~Chilnualna Ranger Station~, with good camp sites in the vicinity, and a half mile further is the top of ~Chilnualna Falls~. The trail eastward leads to ~Grouse Lake~ (two miles), ~Crescent Lake~ (three and a half miles) and ~Johnson Lake~ (four and a half miles).

TRAIL TRIP 22

GLACIER POINT TO JOHNSON LAKE via THE BUENA VISTA TRAIL

(16 miles--7 hours)

This is a good new trail and is the most direct route between Glacier Point and the excellent fishing lakes of the southern part of the park. The one-way trip is an easy day's journey from Glacier Point. For those walking from Yosemite there are good camp sites and excellent fishing _en route_ at Buena Vista and Royal Arch Lakes.

From ~Glacier Point~ we follow the main ~Vernal-Nevada Falls Trail~ about two miles. Just east of ~Illilouette Ridge~ we take the right branch and continue southeastward up the canyon of the Illilouette. About three miles takes us to another trail junction. To the west is ~Mono Meadow~, about one and a half miles distant, and to the northeast, crossing ~Illilouette Creek~, are the ~Merced Pass Trail~ (Trail Trip 23) and the cut-off trail to the rim of ~Panorama Cliff~.

Our trail continues up ~Illilouette Creek~, finally crossing a low "hog back" and turning south up ~Buena Vista Creek~. In a glacial cirque at its head is ~Buena Vista Lake~ (Alt. 9200). The south, or upper side is backed by a rugged rock bluff from which huge boulders have fallen into the water, making an excellent place from which to fish. The lake was stocked with eastern brook trout in 1892, 1908 and 1919, and with rainbow trout in 1892. It is one of the park's best and most accessible fishing lakes. Surrounded by open parks of timber, it offers many beautiful camp sites, especially near the outlet. Forage is fair downstream from the lake but is rather scarce early in the season. Ostrander Lake is four miles northeast and can be reached by foot. There are no blazes or monuments to mark the route.

Our trail now mounts abruptly 400 feet to ~Buena Vista Pass~ (Alt. 9600). To the right about half a mile is ~Buena Vista Peak~ (Alt. 9600), and to the left and running east is ~Buena Vista Crest~. Excellent views are obtained from the trail as it crosses the open ridge. Near the summit the granite has fractured perpendicularly, forming regular rectangular slabs.

An 800-foot descent thru the open forest in the next two miles takes us to the picturesque little ~Royal Arch Lake~ (Alt. 8800). This is a small lake, deep on the north and east sides, and shallow near the southwest margin. It is named from the arches in the steep northeast granite wall, which are similar to the Royal Arches of Yosemite Valley but on a smaller scale. The lake was well stocked with eastern brook trout in 1897 and fishing is excellent, especially in the deep water along the rocky northwest shore. There are fine camp sites here and good horse-feed.

Skirting the west margin of the lake our trail follows the small stream about one mile to the main ~Chilnualna Trail~. Eastward is ~Buck Camp~ (two miles), ~Moraine Meadows~ (seven miles), and ~Fernandez Pass~ (eleven miles). We turn westward to ~Johnson Lake~ (Alt. 8550), about a quarter mile distant. This is a small, round, deep lake beautifully set in meadows and forest. It is bountifully stocked with eastern brook trout and rainbow trout. The locality is ideal for camping. Further westward are ~Crescent Lake~ (one mile), ~Grouse Lake~ (two and a half miles), and ~Chilnualna Falls~ (six and a half miles).

TRAIL TRIP 23

YOSEMITE OR GLACIER POINT TO MORAINE MEADOWS _via_ THE MERCED PASS TRAIL

(From Yosemite, 22 miles--10 hours. From Glacier Point, 18 miles--7 hours)

The ~Merced Pass Trail~ has been replaced to a large extent by the more scenic and better built Buena Vista Trail, which offers a short-cut to the splendid fishing lakes in the upper basin of the South Fork of the Merced. For those whose destination is the wild country at the headwaters of the San Joaquin River, the Merced Pass Trail is still the preferable route. The upper basin of Illilouette Creek abounds in glacial phenomena and fishing is reported good.

From Yosemite we follow the ~Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail~ (Trail Trip 1) as far as the rim of ~Panorama Cliff~ just above Nevada Falls. Here we turn to the right on the ~Mono Meadow Trail~, which bears due south four miles to the main stream of ~Illilouette Creek~. To reach this point from ~Glacier Point~ one should follow the ~Vernal-Nevada Falls Trail~ (Trail Trip 2) for two miles, turn to the right on the ~Buena Vista Trail~ (Trail Trip 22), and after three miles more turn to the left on the ~Mono Meadow Trail~. A short distance will take one to the banks of ~Illilouette Creek~.

At this point--twelve miles from Yosemite and five and a half miles from Glacier Point--the ~Merced Pass Trail~ turns eastward, following for ten miles up the main stream of the Illilouette and keeping always within a short distance of its north bank. Gradually ascending to an elevation of 9295 feet, we traverse ~Merced Pass~. To the right is the long ridge of ~Buena Vista Crest~ (Alt. 9712). A descent of 600 feet in the next two miles takes us to ~Moraine Meadows~. This is a splendid camping region with abundant horse-feed and good fishing. Nearby will be found a summer ranger outpost. A trail to the east leads to ~Fernandez Pass~ and the headwaters of the ~San Joaquin~; one to the southeast to ~Chain o' Lakes~, where is most excellent fishing; and one to the west to ~Royal Arch~, ~Johnson~, ~Crescent~ and ~Grouse Lakes~ and ~Chilnualna Falls~.

TRAIL TRIP 24

WAWONA ROAD TO EL PORTAL _via_ THE SUNSET TRAIL

(4 miles--1-1/2 hours)

This is a cut-off trail widely used by the Park Rangers in their winter patrols but seldom used by the public.

Starting from the ~Wawona Road~ one and a half miles northwest of ~Chinquapin~, the trail runs down the ridge on the north side of ~Indian Creek~. Swinging to the north, the trail passes just west of ~Lookout Point~, from which is a fine view down the canyon of the Merced. Bearing to the right, it descends to ~Avalanche Creek~, where it passes just below ~Cougar Falls~. The trail then zigzags down the canyon wall to the midwinter ranger station and trail bridge across the ~Merced River~, joining the ~El Portal Road~, about three miles above El Portal.

TRAIL TRIP 25

WAWONA ROAD TO EL PORTAL _via_ THE HENNESSY TRAIL

(10 miles--4 hours)

The ~Hennessy Trail~ is no longer used by the public since the bridge across the Merced at its lower end was washed away in 1917. Use the Sunset Trail (Trail Trip 24).