Part 4

Standing here, we have a view of the southern part of the town. The blue heights of Manomet Hills shut in the horizon. Beyond them lies the little hamlet of South Plymouth, a rural village with summer hotels, the Ardmore Inn and Idlewild hotels of considerable celebrity, especially among sportsmen, to which the very spacious and beautiful Mayflower Inn has been added in 1917. On this side is the village of Chiltonville, with its churches and factories. Far down to the shore, near the head of the Beach, is the Hotel Pilgrim. Just south of the hotel are the beautiful level lawns and attractive cozy club-house of the Plymouth Country Club, the golf links being situated on the opposite side of Warren avenue, running over high, clear, breezy fields and commanding a splendid view of ocean and of land. Near lies the southerly portion of the main part of the town, divided by the brook. Across the stream, or pond, just beyond Main Street extension with its bridge built in 1907-8, is the public common, laid out very early as a “Training Green,” the name it bears today. It is an attractive square surrounded with large elm trees, and in its centre stands the monument erected in 1869 to the memory of the Soldiers and Sailors of Plymouth, who gave their lives for the country in the Civil War. Before the Pilgrims came the Green was an Indian cornfield.

Watson’s Hill

Above the Green is Watson’s Hill, now covered with houses. This was the “_Cantauganteest_” of the Indians, one of their favorite resorts where they had their summer camps, and on the level below planted their corn. It is famous as the opening scene of the treaty with Massasoit, made April 1, 1621. Gov. Bradford had a tract of land assigned him here on which to raise corn, and to this day portions of the hill remain in the Bradford name and others of direct descent from him.

The Watch Tower

A little to the north of the site of the old fort another tablet marks the place of the brick watch tower erected in 1643. The locality of this tower is indicated by four stone posts set in the ground to mark its corners. The brick foundations are still there, about a foot below the surface, and the old hearthstone on which the Pilgrims built their watch fires still lies where they placed it, on the southerly side of the enclosure. The location of the tower was discovered many years ago in digging a grave, when the sexton came upon the foundation. The town records of Sept. 23, 1643, have the following entry in regard to it: “It is agreed upon the whole that there shall be a watch house forthwith, built of brick, and that Mr. Grimes will sell us the brick at eleven shillings a thousand.”

This is the first mention of brick in the records of the colony, and it is to be presumed that this marks about the time of the first brickyards. The cause of the tower being built was probably the threatenings of the Indians, which resulted in the Narragansett war.

Still later, in 1676, another fortification was erected on the hill, presumably covering the same area, enclosing a hundred feet square, “with palisadoes ten and one half feet high, and three pieces of ordnance planted on it.” The town agreed with Nathaniel Southworth to build a watch house, “which is to be sixteen feet in length, twelve feet in breadth, and eight feet stud, to be walled with boards, and to have two floors, the upper floor to be six feet above the tower, to batten the walls and make a small pair of stairs in it, the roof to be covered with shingles, and a chimney to be built in it. For the said work he is to have eight pounds, either in money or other pay equivalent.” This being only thirty-two years after the building of the brick tower, it would seem as if the latter could hardly have fallen or been taken down, and it is possible if not probable, that the wooden watch tower was built upon the old brick one; but of this we can only conjecture. This was in the period of King Philip’s war in 1675. From here might have been seen the blaze of the houses of Eel River (now Chiltonville), and the terrible warwhoop almost heard as the savages burst upon the little hamlet near Bramhall’s corner on that peaceful Sabbath in March, 1676, when they left eleven dead bodies of women and children and smoking ruins to mark their savage onslaught.

The Harbor

We have, from the easterly brow of Burial Hill, a beautiful picture of the harbor and its surroundings. Below us the ground slopes to the water, cut into terrace below terrace, with the buildings upon them. At its foot are the wharves and harbor, and below it the Beach near which the “Mayflower” swung at her anchors. Manomet is the range of misty blue hills stretching into the bay on the right. Kingston and Duxbury, with Captain’s Hill are on the left, and far out Clark’s Island, Saquish, and the Gurnet, with the thin, sandy strip of beach joining the latter headlands. On the Gurnet is Fort Andrew, and at Saquish is Fort Standish, both earthworks, built by the Government during the Civil war of 1861-65, but now dismantled and unused. These sites are the property of the United States. The Gurnet, it is said, takes its name from a somewhat similar promontory in the English channel, near Plymouth, England. On it are located a United States life-saving station, twin lighthouses and a Dabol trumpet fog signal. A whistling buoy at the entrance of the harbor, opposite the Gurnet, gives warning in thick weather, of the dangerous Brown’s Island shoal. Saquish is an Indian word signifying an abundance of clams. Clark’s Island was named from the mate of the “Mayflower,” who commanded the shallop on the expedition when the island was discovered.

The following statistics were furnished by Capt. A. M. Harrison from the United States Survey of 1853-57: From the shore end of Long Wharf, in a straight line, to Gurnet Light, the distance is four and seven-sixteenths statute miles, or, three and seven-eighths nautical miles. The length of Plymouth Beach, from the foot of Manomet Hills to the beacon on extreme point, is three and five-sixteenths statute miles, or two and seven-eights nautical miles. The length of the Beach from its junction with the mainland to the beacon, is two and five-eighths statute miles, or two and one-fourth nautical miles.

Voyage of the Mayflower Shallop

From Burial Hill we can overlook the whole course of that boat expedition which started on its voyage of discovery from the “Mayflower” in Provincetown Harbor, directly opposite us across the bay. Coasting along the inside of Cape Cod at the right, its sandy shore hidden by distance from our sight, some of the exploring party on foot, forcing their way through the tangled wilderness, sometimes wading in half frozen water through the surf or across brooks, they slowly make their way. Constantly on the alert, and two or three times attacked and beating off their assailants, the shallop now with all the party aboard nears Manomet point. It begins to snow and rain and the wind to blow and the seas to rise. Now the hinge of the rudder breaks, and oars are got out to steer with. Master Coppin, the pilot, bids them to be of good cheer, for he sees the harbor which he had promised them.

Across the bay they drive, keeping on a press of sail to make the desired harbor before nightfall when crash goes the mast, broken into three pieces, and the shallop is near being wrecked. Now the flood-tide takes them and bears them in past the Gurnet nose, and Master Coppin, finding himself in a strange place that he had never seen before, throws up his hands and exclaims: “The Lord be merciful to us, I never saw this place before,” and in his terror would have run the boat on shore, “in a cove full of breakers,” between the Gurnet and Saquish; “but a lusty seaman which steered bade those that rowed, if they were men, about with her, or else they were all cast away.” The short twilight of the winter day had faded into darkness, as the storm-tossed and dispirited company found themselves “under the lee of a small island.” There it is before us, the third highland to the left—the first being the Gurnet and the second Saquish. They landed, and kept their watch that night in a rain. Gov. Bradford, in his history, gives us a few more particulars: “In the morning they find the place to be a small island secure from Indians. And this being the last day of the week, they here dry their stuff, fix their pieces, rest themselves, return God thanks for their many deliverances and here the next day keep their Christian Sabbath.” Tradition says that from a large rock with a flat top that is there now, bearing the inscription, “On the Sabbath day we rested,” the first prayer ascended on this shore; and there, for the first time in New England, praise and thanks were given to that watchful Providence that had guided and guarded them. The next day, Monday, they sailed up to the shore below us, and, stepping on Plymouth Rock, made the exploration which ultimately determined them to fix upon this place for their plantation.

Morton Park

One of the most attractive spots in old Plymouth and one that the casual visitor does not always see, is Morton Park. Lying a little more than a mile from the town centre it makes a convenient pleasure-ground for Plymouth people, and the beauty of the place is such as to attract all lovers of woodland scenery. Nature has done her most to make the park charming, and man has very wisely made little attempt to improve it. Nearly 200 acres there are, consisting of deep woods and open country, hills and valleys, brooks and ponds.

The park nearly surrounds Little Pond, consisting of forty acres, and borders for a mile on the historic Billington Sea, which has 308 acres. Roads and paths have been laid out in romantic situations, and some trees planted, but otherwise the wild woodland cleared of underbrush remains in its natural state. In 1889 the land was given to the town by several public-spirited citizens, and the park was named for Nathaniel Morton, Esq., one of its principal donors, who during his life made it his special pride, and gave his money generously for its improvement.

Town Brook

“And there is a very sweet brooke runnes under the hillside, and many delicate springs of as good water as can be drunke.” GOV. BRADFORD.

At the foot of Burial Hill, on the south side, the Town Brook flows through the centre of the town, “vexed in all its seaward course by bridges, dams and mills.” Along the banks the Pilgrims erected their first dwelling-houses and brought water from “the very sweet brooke” below, into which the “many delicate springs” still continue to run.

It is a favorite resort for artists who delight in sketching the picturesque scenery and ancient architecture. One of these springs of deliciously clear cold water, is forced up from near the brook by electric power, and runs out in a fountain at the corner of Leyden and Main Streets, on land once owned by Elder Brewster as previously noted. During the summer many thousands are here refreshed, and while citizens much enjoy the cooling draughts, visitors highly commend the public provision which enables them to partake of the waters of a spring, from which the Pilgrims themselves daily obtained their supply “of as good water as can be drunke.”

The stream proceeds from Billington Sea about two miles distant from the town. It furnishes a valuable water power at the present, and in the days of the Pilgrims, and for nearly two centuries after, it abounded with alewives almost at their doors, affording an important resource for the supply of their wants. The tide flowed for some distance up this stream and formed a convenient basin for the reception and safe shelter of the shallops and other vessels employed in their earlier enterprises of fishing and traffic. Under authority of a Legislative act the Town of Plymouth purchased this estuary in 1909 that the area and surrounding may be subject to public improvements. From Watson’s Hill, over this brook, where Market Street crosses it, came the great sachem Massasoit, with twenty of his braves, on a visit to the Pilgrims, when was concluded that treaty April 1, 1621, which during nearly fifty-five years conduced so effectually to the safety and permanence of the colony.

Old Houses

Plymouth contains many old buildings antedating the Revolution, but they have been repaired and modernized so that they do not have that appearance at present, and visitors are often disappointed in not finding the antique structures which they expected. Old people, now living, can remember when several of these buildings had “Dutch ovens” and chimneys built on the outside.

Old houses still remaining are the Kendall Holmes house on Winter street, built in 1666; the Leach house, on Summer Street, built in 1679; the Howland house, 1666; the Shurtleff house, 1698; the Crowe house, 1664; and the William Harlow house, built in 1677, partly of the material of the old fort on Burial Hill. The Howland descendants recently purchased the old homestead on Sandwich street, and in the spring of 1913, put it in complete repair, designing it as a place of annual meeting, and for public visitation in the summer season. The Cole blacksmith shop, 1684, which composed part of a building at the corner of Leyden and Main streets, and was regarded with much interest by visitors, was badly damaged by fire April 16, 1913, and has been replaced by a very handsome store building. It is a coincidence that this old smithy which the Pilgrims knew on the first Pilgrim street, should have burned on the anniversary of the day the “Mayflower” sailed on her return voyage, after passing the winter here in Plymouth harbor.

The Winslow house on North Street is a good example of the colonial style of architecture. It was built about 1754 by Edward Winslow, who was a great-grandson of Gov. Winslow, of the colony. He purchased the land from Consider, a grandson of John Howland, who was one of the “Mayflower” passengers. Additions have recently been made to the house which is now owned and occupied by Mrs. C. L. Willoughby. In this house then owned by her father, Charles Jackson, Miss Lydia Jackson was married to the famed scholar and philosopher, Ralph Waldo Emerson.

The Sergeant William Harlow House was built in 1677 of timbers from the fort on Burial Hill, which was taken down at the close of the King Phillip War. It has recently been purchased by the Plymouth Antiquarian Society and is now open to the public.

On the corner of Main and North Streets, built in 1730, still stands the house of General John Winslow, who removed the Acadians from Nova Scotia. This was also the home of James Warren, President of the Provincial Congress.

The Town

By the State census of 1920 the population of Plymouth was 13,032. The total valuation in 1920 was $20,854,025, of which $15,573,175 was real estate, and $5,280,850 personal. The number of polls assessed was 3,523 and the acres of land assessed 50,269. Tax rate, $22.80 on $1,000. The funded debt January 1, 1920, was $188,533 of which amount $42,933 was water debt, leaving but $145,600 funded for other purposes. This is extremely moderate in comparison with the value of the town’s municipal property and assets, which are net aggregated.

Few towns are better provided with city conveniences. A system of public works, introduced in 1855, supplies the inhabitants with pure water from the great ponds that lie in the woods a few miles south of the town. Excellent drainage is secured by an extensive system of sewers, the main outlets discharging in deep water of the harbor 1500 feet from the shore. The main thoroughfares are lighted by electricity, and both electricity and gas are in use for illuminants in public buildings, stores, factories and dwellings. Court Street and Main Street, from the N. Y., N. H. & H. railroad station to the head of Water Street, comprise the “Great Whiteway” system of arc lighting from underground wires, with very satisfactory results. These lights were turned on in the evening of March 1st, 1916, the occasion having been made an impromptu celebration, in which several thousands of citizens of Plymouth and neighboring towns took part. Electric street railways furnish connection with the adjacent towns, and are a source of much pleasure in summer for trolley trips to the beaches, hotels, and suburbs.

The town has a public library incorporated in 1880, containing nearly 16,000 volumes and a valuable collection of 4,000 large photographs from the finest art subjects in European galleries. Its schools rank among the best in the State, and its high-school building, erected in 1891 at a cost of forty thousand dollars, and enlarged in 1914 at a cost of more than thirty thousand dollars, has accommodation for over three hundred pupils. In its religious denominations holding regular services are represented the Unitarian, Congregational, Baptist, Universalist, Methodist, Catholic, Episcopal, Advent, German Lutheran, Christian Scientist, Spiritualist, Latter Day Saints and Jewish faiths.

Plymouth has good streets, her principal thoroughfares being macadamized. The sidewalks throughout the centre of the town are concreted. Her stores are kept abreast of the times, and a weekly newspaper, the Old Colony Memorial established May, 1822, chronicles the happenings of local and neighborhood interest.

The town contains five banking institutions,—Old Colony and the Plymouth National banks; the Plymouth, the Plymouth Five Cents and the Plymouth Co-operative savings banks, occupying two fine brick buildings on Main Street. There are six excellent hotels within the town limits, four of them well known as summer resorts. To the credit of the town be it said, that its citizens are so law abiding that only a small but very effective uniformed police force is required, and there is seldom occasion of arrest for any serious offense.

The fire department has a first-class alarm and motor system, and is run in regular city style. The town voted in March, 1916, to reorganize the department under a single Commissioner, and appropriated about $17,000 for new motor apparatus. Of the four “auto” pieces, going into commission in 1917, two are combined chemical and hose; one a powerful three stream pump, hose and ladder combination; and one a first-class ladder truck. This modern outfit, in charge of a chief and permanent force at the Central station, is so quickly effective as to meet emergencies; but two steamers, one ladder truck and a hose wagon of the old department, are kept available in case of need.

The military establishment consists of a fine State armory which cost $30,000 in which the “Standish Guards,” chartered in 1818, have their quarters. The “Guards” were one of the best companies in the dandy Fifth Regiment, and their past history in the Civil and Spanish wars is highly creditable. They were “Minute Men of 1861,” responding under Capt. Charles C. Doten on the first call for troops the morning of April 16, 1861, and with their regiment, then the Third Massachusetts, were the very first of any troops of the war, either National or Volunteer, to go within the rebel lines as they did when on the gunboat “Pawnee” they ran the rebel batteries and destroyed the Norfolk navy yard, and rescued the frigate “Cumberland” on the night of April 20, 1861. In the Spanish war, commanded by Capt. W. C. Butler, they were in camp in the South, but the regiment, the Fifth, was not sent to Cuba, while all the while in instant readiness for active service. Again, June 21, 1916, as company D of the Fifth, they at once responded to the call for state troops to defend the Mexican border, and splendidly maintained their patriotic record, under the command of Capt. Charles H. Robbins,—the Lieut. Col. of the regiment being their former commander, Capt. W. C. Butler. The company returned Oct. 21, 1916 and received a hearty welcome from the townspeople. As part of the National Guard, the company was mustered into the United States service for the European war, Aug. 8, 1917, under command of Capt. A. J. Carr, and with 141 men went into camp at Framingham, Aug. 17, where the 5th and 9th regiments were consolidated and became the 101st U. S. N. G. Infantry, in the 26th Division, embarking for service in Europe, Sept. 7, 1917.

Its Industries

The character of Plymouth’s industrial life has entirely changed within a half century. Within the memory of men now living, the time was when the town boasted a fleet of seventy-five fishermen, and enjoyed prestige as a fishing port. In common with other seaport towns of New England, this industry has departed, but thriving manufactories have risen in its place and coal barges and steamships are doing business at the port, superseding the old fishing schooners which once crowded the wharves or whitened the harbor with their sails.

Plymouth’s manufacturing industries show great diversity of character, and are exceedingly prosperous. The yearly value of their total product is not far from fifteen million dollars. The great cordage works at North Plymouth are the very largest concern of the kind in the world, employing above 2,000 hands, and have built up a flourishing corporation hamlet in that quarter of the town. Their manufacturing product is over $10,000,000 a year, and their big steamships bringing from Yucatan directly to Plymouth great cargoes of fibre as raw material, give the port, as one of foreign import, rank in Massachusetts over all other ports of the state directly next to Boston. There are three large mills engaged in the production of woolen and worsted cloths, one busy concern making rugs and mats, while three extensive factories keep many of Plymouth’s inhabitants employed in the manufacture of tacks, nails, and rivets. An iron foundry does a large business in stovemaking, and at Chiltonville there is a big branch plant of the Boston Woven Hose and Rubber Company, under Plymouth management which supports quite a village of its own. Besides these are the manufactories of insulated wire for electrical purposes, zinc and copper, saw gummers and swages, barrels, boxes, kegs and kits, and numerous smaller enterprises. The Plymouth Electric Light and Power Company furnishes current to several of these establishments, besides sending current to Kingston, Duxbury and Marshfield, Middleboro and Carver for domestic and street lighting. It also lights Plymouth, having in its circuits of the several towns, nearly 40 miles of wire. The Cape Cod Canal, on both sides for its entire length, is illuminated by the P. E. L. Co., through a special system of heavy aerial conductors comprising a circuit of about 30 miles.

Plymouth’s manufactured products bear an excellent name in the markets of the world, her cordage and woolen goods being particularly well known as of the very best character.