Part 2

The restoration of The Capitol was facilitated by the fact that the colonial legislature, in ordering its erection, determined the design down to details not only of building but of furnishing. The building itself, after various vicissitudes, was destroyed by fire in 1832. The foundations were covered over and preserved by a patriotic group of women who devoted themselves to saving important historical monuments, the Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities. When the restoration of Williamsburg was undertaken, they presented this site to the Restoration organization.

Another ancient building which had been preserved (and is still owned) by the A. P. V. A. is The Powder Horn, more formally known as The Public Magazine. After the Revolutionary War this building was used for a variety of purposes, including religious worship, at which time stained glass windows were installed. When the Baptist Church became strong enough to build their own edifice just to the east of the Magazine, they tore down the surrounding wall and used the bricks for the foundation of the new church. This congregation has now removed to a newer part of the town and the Powder Horn has been restored to its original condition. In this building is a collection of Revolutionary arms.

Across the road from the Powder Horn is The Court House of 1770. This is now commonly called “the Old Court House” since the location of the still older seat of city and county government (in the rear of the Powder Horn) has been used for the present modern Court House. The Restoration of the Old Court House illustrates one of the guiding policies of the restoration which is to perpetuate the old part of Williamsburg as it was in the 18th century, by no means with the object of beautifying it. In 1910 the Old Court House was consumed by fire except as to the exterior walls. In rebuilding, the structure was distinctly improved in appearance by addition of columns to support the piazza roof; in its restoration the columns were omitted, thus securing authenticity at the expense of beauty. The intention has been to keep to this policy of authenticity throughout the restoration; it will be noticed, for example, that the planting in restored gardens is of 18th century plants, though in many cases modern culture has improved the species. Within the Old Court House may be seen a selection from the many tons of artifacts which have been recovered in the course of excavations about the ancient buildings.

As early as 1701, while meeting in the Wren Building, the Virginia Assembly enacted legislation specifying details not only for the Capitol but also for a Gaol (pronounced gail, not goal) to be erected on the north side of the square which was reserved for these buildings and the office of the Secretary of the Colony. Parts of the Gaol were torn down after the removal of the state court to Richmond, for Williamsburg has always been quite law-abiding. The portions thus destroyed have now been re-added to the surviving building, as also the stocks and pillory outside the wall. So the whole may now be seen as it stood when Blackbeard’s men were imprisoned and hanged here.

The final restoration of Bruton Parish Church was made during the last days of Dr. Goodwin and he was able to visit it during all but the last stages. At the first service held in the completed edifice his body was buried beneath the floor of the church by the side of great men of colonial times. It has been suggested that an appropriate epitaph, referring not alone to the church but to the community, would be: If you would see his monument, look about you.

The Cole Shop (D) is believed to be the oldest store in America, having opened for business shortly after 1750. It was built by Charles Taliaferro, a coach and chair maker. Originally consisting of only one room, prior to 1782 another small building was moved up and joined to it on the west as a sort of lean-to, the roof-line which had theretofore been a symmetrical dormer being extended to cover the addition. At a later, but still early, date two rooms were added in the rear and the street elevation was finished off with a false front. In 1804 the shop was sold to Dr. Jesse Cole in whose family it remained until the death of his grandson in 1936.

There is no record of the type of goods carried under the Taliaferro management; but in 1827 a professor newly arrived in Williamsburg wrote thus of the Cole Shop: “I reached the Post Office which stands in the Center of Main St. It is one of the Curiosities of this Place.... There is not an Article whatever in the World which could not be found in it. It is a Book Seller’s Store in which you will find Hams and French Brandy; it is an Apothecary’s Shop in which you can provide yourself with silk Stockings and shell Oysters; it is a Post Office in which you may have Glisters and chewing Tobacco & in a Word it is a Museum of natural History in which we meet every Afternoon to dispute about the Presidential Election and about the Quality of Irish Potatoes.”

The discussion group referred to by Prof. De La Pena was the famous Pulaski Club which moves its sessions from indoors to the benches outside in favorable weather. George Washington, in his diary, refers repeatedly to attending the club at Mrs. Campbell’s Tavern (near the Capitol) but in modern times the meeting place has been at the Cole Shop. This is claimed to be the oldest men’s social club in the country; and whatever may be the members’ effect on the quality of Irish potatoes, they have effectively “saved the country” for a long time.

Le Maison des Foux (Eastern State Hospital for the Insane, to you), of which Dr. Jesse Cole was the Superintendent was founded by the Colony in 1769. It is on the site of the Custis estate where Martha Dandridge lived with her first husband. The only Custis building still standing is the small brick house which can be seen over the fence from Francis Street. This is generally known as “Martha Washington’s Kitchen.”

The _Virginia Gazette_ office (L) has not yet been reconstructed. The _Gazette_, which is now published on Prince George Street, is the oldest newspaper in the South, having been established in 1736. It probably also operated the Post Office in the early days of that institution.

The Ludwell-Paradise House (M) now houses Mrs. John D. Rockefeller’s collection of American Folk Art, ranging from cigar store Indians to oil paintings. This house was owned and occupied in the early years of the 19th century by Mrs. Lucy Ludwell Paradise, daughter and granddaughter of two Ludwells who owned this and many other Virginia estates, including Green Spring. She and her husband held the unique distinction of maintaining their home in London as the social center of American sympathizers during the Revolutionary War.

George Wythe’s House (N) was erected in 1755 and has suffered remarkably little change in the intervening years. The outbuildings were destroyed and have been reconstructed and the restored house has been furnished throughout with genuine 18th century furniture. Aside from the Palace, this is the only restored residence which is open to public inspection, all others being occupied as private homes, many of them by descendants of the original owners. George Wythe was a very substantial citizen of the late colonial and early republican period. He was a Signer of the Declaration of Independence and, as first law professor in America, instructed such leaders of democracy as Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe, John Marshall and St. George Tucker.

The Carter-Saunders House, The Home of Robert Carter Nicholas (P), Treasurer of the Colony, being a fine house next to the Governor’s Palace, was close to the social center of the capital city and was always occupied by socially prominent citizens including more than one of the mighty Carters and by the Governor himself when his own residence was undergoing repairs. There is a fine garden which can be seen from the walk that connects Palace Green with West Scotland Street.

The First Theater in America (Q) has not yet been reconstructed but its location is marked on the ground. Some of the great English actors of that day came to play in this house and the social setting was gala indeed. As cited in a little book, _The Sports of Colonial Williamsburg_, Shakespeare, Addison, Steele, Ciber and Garrick were favorite authors in Colonial Williamsburg. This theater is the scene of Mary Johnston’s book, Audrey. The heroine was portrayed as an actress in this theater and as living in the delightful old house between the Theater and the Palace, which is therefore often called “the Audrey House” or The Brush-Audrey House, it having been built in 1718 by John Brush, armorer and gunsmith to the Governor and keeper of the Powder Magazine. In the rear of the Audrey House and the theater site is the oldest growth of box in Williamsburg; this should be approached from Scotland Street as the southerly portion of this box garden is so overgrown that it has been necessary to close it.

The St. George Tucker House (R), one of the most beautiful in Williamsburg, was ancient in its beginning and was enlarged to its present dimensions just after the Revolutionary War by St. George Tucker who came from Bermuda to study law under George Wythe and later succeeded him as law teacher and author. The house is now occupied by one of his descendants.

The Randolph House (S) was owned in 1742 by Sir John Randolph, the only native of Virginia to be knighted. This house was the residence of Gen. Rochambeau prior to the Battle of Yorktown and probably during the two years of waiting for the Treaty of Paris. Here, also, Lafayette was entertained on his return visit to America in 1824.

The Coke-Garrett House (T) was begun in 1720 and added to at later times as shown by various floor levels. Altogether, it is one of the finest residences in Williamsburg and has a famous old garden which is second only to that of the Governor.

Bassett Hall (V), the only Williamsburg house with the long straight avenue approach which was so common out in the country, was built in the middle of the 18th century. It was at times a residence, at times a tavern. It takes its name from Martha Washington’s nephew who bought it soon after the Revolutionary War. Later it was owned by Abel P. Upshur, a member of President Tyler’s Cabinet and it is believed that Vice-President Tyler was visiting here when he was notified of his succession. The estate is now the home of Mr. and Mrs. Rockefeller.

Tazewell Hall (Z) gets its name from an owner who purchased it after it had been forfeited by John Randolph, the Tory, when he fled to England at the outset of the Revolutionary War. This John Randolph (who later returned and was buried in the College Chapel) was the last Attorney General under the Crown and his son, who was born in this house, was the first Attorney General of the United States. The house was moved to its present position to facilitate a real-estate development to the south; it formerly stood squarely opposite the end of South England Street. As can be clearly seen, it has not yet been restored.

1—Episcopal Church 2—Methodist Church 3—Presbyterian Church 4—Baptist Church 5—Catholic Church 6—Masonic Lodge 7—U. S. O. 8—Post Office 9—The Lodge 10—Williamsburg Inn

_New Williamsburg_

Williamsburg never grew substantially beyond the limits defined in 1699 until the year 1900 when the boundaries were extended at both ends of the town to take in the development of population that occurred with the growth of the College. Repeatedly since then enlargements have been made, especially as the College grew during the presidency of Dr. J. A. C. Chandler. Of late there has been building in the Capitol Landing Road district and out Jamestown Road; but throughout the present century the principal growth has been along Richmond Road. Here all the churches except Bruton have built new edifices opposite the College. The Methodists, it is true, are just inside the ancient city limits, at the College Corner. At the outset of the restoration it was determined, whether wisely or not, that the westerly block on each side of Duke of Gloucester Street should not be restored, but developed for the convenience of the residents. The shops in these two blocks are designed to be in keeping with the ancient architecture but are in no way restorations.

Just within the southern boundary of old Williamsburg, the Restoration operates two modern hotels: the Williamsburg Inn and The Lodge. The former is, during the war, reserved for military and naval officers and their families; the Lodge is still open to the general public. In either case, reservations should be made in advance, especially for weekends. Persons planning to visit Williamsburg and desiring accommodations in private families should communicate in advance with proprietors of guest-houses or with the Room Registry jointly operated by the Chamber of Commerce and the U. S. O.; and an advance deposit should be made. The reason for this is that Williamsburg (as will be seen by the map on page 2) is a very small civilian island almost entirely surrounded by military and naval establishments populated by many thousands of service men whose relatives desire to visit them. It is this situation which leads to the uncertainty of reply when questions are asked as to the population of Williamsburg. Including the Hospital patients, the 1940 census showed about 4,000 residents. Up to opening of hostilities the population is supposed to have doubled.

All Williamsburg churches have regular meetings at 11 o’clock Sunday mornings; the Masons on the second Monday evening of each month; the Rotary Club every Thursday; the Lions on alternate Tuesdays. For information about other of their activities it will be well to telephone as follows:

Roman Catholic Church, Rev. T. J. Walsh (tel. 411)

Episcopal Church, Rev. F. H. Craighill (tel. 158)

Baptist Church, Rev. A. F. Ward (tel. 178-W)

Presbyterian Church, Rev. C. M. Pratt (tel. 309-R)

Methodist Church, Rev. L. F. Havermale (tel. 384-J)

Christian Science Church, Mrs. J. J. Montague (tel. 258-J)

Williamsburg Lodge No. 6, A.F. & A.M., Mr. B. C. Creasy (tel. 24)

Rotary Club, Mr. M. W. Foster (tel. 270)

Lions Club, Capt. W. H. Kelly (tel. 226)

FOOTNOTES

[1]An illustrated brochure on “Early Teaching of Science at the College of William and Mary in Virginia” may be had for 20c. at the Cole Shop.

THE COLE SHOP is Headquarters for BOOKS _on WILLIAMSBURG and VIRGINIA._

The following are kept in stock and can be secured in person or by mail:

DESCRIPTIVE AND GUIDE BOOKS

Colonial Yorktown ($3.00) Guide Book to Williamsburg Old and New (25¢) Homes and Gardens in Old Virginia ($5.00) Old Williamsburg and Her Neighbors ($3.00) Peninsula Pilgrimage ($5.00) Photographic Studies of Old Virginia Homes and Gardens ($1.00) Virginia is a State of Mind ($3.00) Williamsburg, Old and New ($4.00) Williamsburg, Virginia in Photographs ($2.00)

HISTORY

Colonial Yorktown ($3.00) The Old South ($3.50) Old Williamsburg and Her Neighbors ($3.00) Pirates of Colonial Virginia ($2.00) Present State of Virginia and the College, 1697 ($2.75) Record of Bruton Parish Church ($3.00) Virginia is a State of Mind ($3.00) Williamsburg in Colonial Times ($3.00) Williamsburg in Virginia ($1.00) (in leather, $5.00) Williamsburg, Old and New ($4.00)

CUSTOMS AND MANNERS

Below the Potomac ($3.00) A Children’s Color Book of Williamsburg (50¢) John Norton & Sons, Merchants ($6.00) Journal and Letters of Philip Fithian ($4.00) Secret Diary of William Byrd, 2 volumes ($5.00 each) Sports of Colonial Williamsburg ($1.00) Williamsburg Art of Cookery ($2.50) (in leather, $4.00) Williamsburg Scrap Book ($2.00)

BIOGRAPHY

George Washington ($1.00) John Paradise and Lucy Ludwell ($4.00) Martha Washington ($2.50) Secret Diary of William Byrd. 2 volumes ($5.00 each) St. George Tucker ($3.00)

FICTION

Colonial Twins of Virginia (for children) ($1.75) Dawn’s Early Light ($2.50) Linda and Dick of Colonial Williamsburg (for children) ($2.00) Stories of the South ($1.50) Storm Against the Wind ($2.75) The Tree of Liberty ($3.00)

The Cole Shop also operates a BOOK-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB

and carries a modest selection of other books of general literature and popular appeal. Any desired book that is published, if not in stock, will be secured to order. Call in or write to The Cole Shop for ANY BOOK.

Transcriber’s Notes

—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.