CHAPTER XX {IV of Vol. II}

Preparations for a Start to Chihuahua -- Ineptness of Married Men for the Santa Fé Trade -- Annoying Custom-house Regulations -- Mails in New Mexico -- Insecurity of Correspondence -- Outfit and Departure -- _Derecho de Consumo_ -- Ruins of Valverde -- 'Towns without Houses' -- La Jornado del Muerto -- Laguna and Ojo del Muerto -- A Tradition of the _Arrieros_ -- Laborious Ferrying and Quagmires -- Arrival at Paso del Norte -- Amenity of the Valley -- _Sierra Blanca_ and _Los Organos_ -- Face of the Country -- Seagrass -- Médanos or Sand-hills -- An accidental River -- Carrizal -- Ojo Caliente -- Laguna de Encinillas -- Southern Haciendas -- Arrival -- Character of the Route and Soil, 145