Category: Travel Writing

Greece and the Ægean Islands

The days in which a visit to Greece might be set down as something quite unusual and apart from the beaten track of European travel have passed away, and happily so. The announcement of one’s intention to visit Athens and its environs no longer affords occasion for astonishmen...

Chapters

6. CHAPTER VI. ANCIENT ATHENS:

There are two favorite ways whereby those leaving the Acropolis are wont to descend to the modern city. One lies around to the right as you leave the gates, passing between the...

4. CHAPTER IV. ATHENS; THE

Athens lies in a long and narrow plain between two rocky mountain ridges that run down from the north. The plain to-day is neither interesting nor particularly fertile, although...

13. CHAPTER XIII. OVER THE HILLS

At five o'clock the persistent thumping of Spyros on the bedroom doors announced the call of incense-breathing morn, though Ph[oe]bus had not yet by any means driven his horses...

9. CHAPTER IX. MYCENÆ AND THE

We journeyed down to Mycenæ from Athens by train. The moment the railroad leaves Corinth it branches southward into the Peloponnesus and into a country which, for legendary inte...

8. CHAPTER VIII. DELPHI

The pilgrimage to Delphi, which used to be fraught with considerable hardship and inconvenience, is happily so no longer. It is still true that the Greek steamers plying between...

7. CHAPTER VII. EXCURSIONS IN

As the admirable Baedeker well says, the stay in Athens is undoubtedly the finest part of a visit to Greece, and it is so not merely because of the many attractions and delights...

5. CHAPTER V. ANCIENT ATHENS:

The visible remains of the ancient city of Athens, as distinguished from the city of to-day, lie mainly to the south and west of the Acropolis, where are to be seen many distinc...

2. CHAPTER II. CRETE

The island of Crete, lying like a long, narrow bar across the mouth of the Ægean Sea, presents a mountainous and rugged appearance to one approaching from any side. Possessing a...

15. CHAPTER XV. SAMOS AND THE

The stiff north wind, which was known to be blowing outside, counseled delaying departure from Delos until after the evening meal, for our course to Samos lay through the trough...

12. CHAPTER XII. ANDHRITSÆNA AND

We found the village of Andhritsæna fascinating in the extreme, from within as well as from without. It was obviously afflicted with a degree of poverty, and suffers, like most...

11. CHAPTER XI. IN ARCADIA

With the benison of the landlord, who promised to send our luncheon over to the station “in a little boy,” we departed from Nauplia on a train toward noontime, headed for the in...

10. CHAPTER X. NAUPLIA AND

We were awakened in the morning by an unaccustomed sound,—a subdued, rapid, rhythmic cadence coming up from the esplanade below, accompanied by the monotonous undertone of a voi...

19. CHAPTER XIX. NIOS; PAROS;

We spent Easter Sunday at Paros. It proved to be a mild and not especially remarkable day in the local church, which was old and quaint and possessed of many highly interesting...

20. CHAPTER XX. CORFU

The city of Patras, from which port we are about to take leave of Greece, is probably the most incongruous city in the kingdom. To be sure it is second in importance to Piræus,...

1. CHAPTER I. TRAVELING IN

The days in which a visit to Greece might be set down as something quite unusual and apart from the beaten track of European travel have passed away, and happily so. The announc...

18. CHAPTER XVIII. THERA

No island that we visited in our Ægean cruise was more interesting than Thera proved to be, when we had steamed across the intervening ocean from Rhodes and into the immense bas...

17. CHAPTER XVII. RHODES

It was our purpose to land on Rhodes the isle, not at Rhodes the town. To visit the famous northern city where once stood the Colossus would have been highly agreeable had oppor...

16. CHAPTER XVI. COS AND CNIDOS

From the little harbor where we had found shelter for our landing to visit Branchidæ it proved but a few hours’ steaming to Cos, which was scheduled as our next stopping place....

14. CHAPTER XIV. THE ISLES OF

It was a gray morning—for Greece. The sky was overcast, the wind blew chill from the north, and anon the rain would set in and give us a few moments of downpour, only to cease a...

3. CHAPTER III. THE ENTRANCE

Leaving Crete behind, the steamer turns her prow northward into the Ægean toward Greece proper, and in the early morning, if all goes smoothly, will be found well inside the pro...