Category: Travel Writing

Glories of Spain

On Calais quay--At the Custom-house--A lady of the past--Ungallant examiner--Better to reign than serve--Paris--Vanity Fair--Sowing and reaping--Laughing through life--At the Hotel Chatham--A pleasant picture--In maiden meditation--M. Pascal is wise in his generation--The secr...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I.

On Calais quay--At the Custom-house--A lady of the past--Ungallant examiner--Better to reign than serve--Paris--Vanity Fair--Sowing and reaping--Laughing through life--At the Ho...

2. CHAPTER II.

Carcassonne--In feudal times--Simon de Montfort--Canal du Midi--L'age d'or et le Grand Monarque--A modern Golden Fleece--One of earth's fair scenes--Choice of evils--M. le Chef...

3. CHAPTER III.

Continued uproar--H. C. disillusioned--A dark night--Not like another Caesar--More crowds--A demon scene--Fair time--Glorious days of the past--In marble halls and labyrinthine...

4. CHAPTER IV.

Wrong turnings--H. C.'s gifts and graces--Out at night--The arcades of Gerona--At the fair--Ancient outlines--Demons at work--In the dry bed of the river--Roasting chestnuts--Me...

5. CHAPTER V.

A Gerona senora--Grace and charm--Lord of creation--Morning greeting--Arcades and ancient houses--Conscription--Gerona a discovery--Streets of steps--Ancient eaves and rare iron...

6. CHAPTER VI.

Beauties of age--Apostles' Doorway--How the old bishops kept out of temptation--Interior of cathedral--Its vast nave--Days of Charlemagne--And of the Moors--A giant dwarfed--Rar...

7. CHAPTER VII.

"Can a prophet come out of Galilee?"--The unexpected happens--Under the probe--Wise reservation--Born to command--Contrasts--Nothing new under the sun--The senora prepares for t...

8. CHAPTER VIII.

Demons at work--In the crowd--Ernesto and his mother--Roasted chestnuts--Instrument of torture--New school of anatomy--Rhine-stones or diamonds?--Happy mother--Honest confession...

9. CHAPTER IX.

Magnetism--Past life--Impulsive nature--First impressions--Perfumed airs--A gentle spirit--Haunted groves--Blue waters of the Levant--Great devotion--A rose-blossom--Back to the...

10. CHAPTER X.

Rome--Count Albert--Happy months--Sweets of companionship--Egypt--Strange things--Quiet weeks--Sinai--Freedom of the desert--Crossing the Red Sea--Mount Serbal--Convent of St. C...

11. CHAPTER XI.

Great conflict--Returning to Paris--Count Albert married--Marriages declined--Love buried in the grave of Arouya--Frivolities--Napoleon at the Tuileries--Illness--Doctors' error...

12. CHAPTER XII.

Sweet illusions--Everything seen and done--True devotion--In the vortex--Sunshine and blue skies--Less demon-like pit--Lights and shadows--Arcades lose their gloom--Rosalie--Cha...

13. CHAPTER XIII.

Barcelona--H. C.'s anxiety--Mutual salutes--Old impressions--Disappointment--Familiar cries and scenes--Flower-sellers--Perpetual summer--Commercial element--Manchester of Spain...

14. CHAPTER XIV.

In the cloisters--Sacred geese--Bishop's palace--House of the Inquisition--Striking quadrangles--_Ajimez_ windows--A rare cloister--Desecration--Library--Rare MSS.--Polite libra...

15. CHAPTER XV.

Early rising--Imp of darkness--Death warrant--The men who fail--Ranges of Montserrat--Sabadell--Labour and romance--The Llobregat--Monistrol--Summer resort--Sleeping village--Em...

16. CHAPTER XVI.

Monk's face--Superfluous virtue--"Welcome to Montserrat"--Mean advantage--Exacting but not mercenary--Another Miguel--Missing keys--Singular monk--Hospederia--Uncertainty--Monk'...

17. CHAPTER XVII.

Gipsies--Picturesque scene--Love passages--H. C. invited to festive board--Saved by Lady Maria's astral visitation--The fortune-teller--H. C. yields to persuasion--Fate foretold...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

Manresa--Tropical deluge--Rash judgment--Catalan hills and valleys--Striking approach--Taking time by the forelock--Primitive inn--Strange assembly--Unpleasant alternative--Seba...

19. CHAPTER XIX.

Picturesque country--Approaching Lerida--Rambling inn--Remarkable duenna--Toothless and voiceless--Smiles upon H. C.--Nearly expires--Civilised chef--A procession--Lerida Dragon...

20. CHAPTER XX.

Lerida by daylight--Second city in Catalonia--Past history--Days of the Goths--And Moors--Becomes a bishopric--Troublous times--Brave people--Striking cathedral--Splendid outlin...

21. CHAPTER XXI.

Days of chivalry not over--In the evening light--Night porter grateful--Dragon in full force--Combative and revengeful--Equal to the occasion--Gall turns to sweetness when H. C....

22. CHAPTER XXII.

Broad plains of Aragon--Wonderful tones--Approaching Zaragoza--Celestial vision--Distance lends enchantment--Commonplace people--The ancient modernised--Disillusion followed by...

23. CHAPTER XXIII.

Bygone days--Sumptuous roosting--Old exchange--Traders of taste--Glory of Aragon--Cathedral of La Seo--Modernised exterior--Interior charms and mesmerises--Next to Barcelona--Ma...

24. CHAPTER XXIV.

El Pilar by day--In the old cathedral--The canon reproachful--Equal to the occasion--No pressure needed--_Un diner maigre_--Dream of forty years--True to time--Juanita--Fruits o...

25. CHAPTER XXV.

Tarragona by night--Cathedral--Moonlight vision--Dream-fabric--Deserted streets--Ghostly form approaches--Quilp or Quasimodo?--Redeeming qualities--Pale spiritual face--Open ses...

26. CHAPTER XXVI.

Charms of Tarragona--Roman traces--Cyclopean remains--Augustus closes Temple of Janus--Great past--House of Pontius Pilate--View from ramparts--Feluccas with white sails set--Li...

27. CHAPTER XXVII.

Our ubiquitous host--Curious mixture of nations--Francisco--His enthusiasm carries the point--French lessons--English prejudice--Landlord's lament--Days of fair Provence--Franci...

28. CHAPTER XXVIII.

A dream-world--Ruins--Chapel of St. George--Archways and Gothic windows--Atmosphere of the Middle Ages--Convent doorway--Summons but no response--Door opens at last--Comfortable...

29. CHAPTER XXIX.

Day visions--All passes away--End of the feast--Francisco gathers up the fragments--Ghosts of the past--Outside the monastery--Oasis in a desert--After the vintage--Francisco gl...

30. CHAPTER XXX.

Charms of Tarragona--Dream of the past--Quasimodo comes not--Of another world--Host's offer--Francisco inconsolable--A mixed sorrow--No more holidays--List of grievances--Fair s...

31. CHAPTER XXXI.

First impressions--Devoted to pleasure--Peace-loving--Climate makes gay and lively--New element--Few traces of the past--Old palaces--Steals into the affections--City of the Cid...

32. CHAPTER XXXII.

Port and harbour--Sunday and fresh air--In the market-place--De Nevada protests--A curse of the country--In the days gone by--On the breakwater--Invaded tramcar--De Nevada confi...

33. CHAPTER I.

On Calais quay--At the Custom-house--A lady of the past--Ungallant examiner--Better to reign than serve--Paris--Vanity Fair--Sowing and reaping--Laughing through life--At the Ho...

34. CHAPTER II.

Carcassonne--In feudal times--Simon de Montfort--Canal du Midi--L'Age d'or et le Grand Monarque--A modern Golden Fleece--One of earth's fair scenes--Choice of evils--M. le Chef...

35. CHAPTER III.

Continued uproar--H. C. disillusioned--A dark night--Not like another Caesar--More crowds--A demon scene--Fair time--Glorious days of the past--In marble halls and labyrinthine...

36. CHAPTER IV.

Wrong turnings--H. C.'s gifts and graces--Out at night--The arcades of Gerona--At the fair--Ancient outlines--Demons at work--In the dry bed of the river--Roasting chestnuts--Me...

37. CHAPTER V.

A Gerona senora--Grace and charm--Lord of creation--Morning greeting--Arcades and ancient houses--Conscription--Gerona a discovery--Streets of steps--Ancient eaves and rare iron...

38. CHAPTER VI.

Beauties of age--Apostles' Doorway--How the old bishops kept out of temptation--Interior of cathedral--Its vast nave--Days of Charlemagne--And of the Moors--A giant dwarfed--Rar...

39. CHAPTER VII.

"Can a prophet come out of Galilee?"--The unexpected happens--under the probe--Wise reservation--Born to command--Contrasts--Nothing new under the sun--The senora prepares for t...

40. CHAPTER VIII.

Demons at work--In the crowd--Ernesto and his mother--Roasted chestnuts--Instrument of torture--New school of anatomy--Rhine-stones or diamonds?--Happy mother--Honest confession...

41. CHAPTER IX.

Magnetism--Past life--Impulsive nature--First impressions--Perfumed airs--A gentle spirit--Haunted groves--Blue waters of the Levant--Great devotion--A rose-blossom--Back to the...

42. CHAPTER X.

Rome--Count Albert--Happy months--Sweets of companionship--Egypt--Strange things--Quiet weeks--Sinai--Freedom of the desert--Crossing the Red Sea--Mount Serbal--Convent of St. C...

43. CHAPTER XI.

Great conflict--Returning to Paris--Count Albert married--Marriages declined--Love buried in the grave of Arouya--Frivolities--Napoleon at the Tuileries--Illness--Doctors' error...

44. CHAPTER XII.

Sweet illusions--Everything seen and done--True devotion--In the vortex--Sunshine and blue skies--Less demon-like pit--Lights and shadows--Arcades lose their gloom--Rosalie--Cha...

45. CHAPTER XIII.

Barcelona--H. C.'s anxiety--Mutual salutes--Old impressions--Disappointment--Familiar cries and scenes--Flower-sellers--Perpetual summer--Commercial element--Manchester of Spain...

46. CHAPTER XIV.

In the cloisters--Sacred geese--Bishop's palace--House of the Inquisition--Striking quadrangles--_Ajimez_ windows--A rare cloister--Desecration--Library--Rare MSS.--Polite libra...

47. CHAPTER XV.

Early rising--Imp of darkness--Death warrant--The men who fail--Ranges of Montserrat--Sabadell--Labour and romance--The Llobregat--Monistrol--Summer resort--Sleeping village--Em...

48. CHAPTER XVI.

Monk's face--Superfluous virtue--"Welcome to Montserrat"--Mean advantage--Exacting but not mercenary--Another Miguel--Missing keys--Singular monk--Hospederia--Uncertainty--Monk'...

49. CHAPTER XVII.

Gipsies--Picturesque scene--Love passages--H. C. invited to festive board--Saved by Lady Maria's astral visitation--The fortune-teller--H. C. yields to persuasion--Fate foretold...

50. CHAPTER XVIII.

Manresa--Tropical deluge--Rash judgment--Catalan hills and valleys--Striking approach--Taking time by the forelock--Primitive inn--Strange assembly--Unpleasant alternative--Seba...

51. CHAPTER XIX.

Picturesque country--Approaching Lerida--Rambling inn--Remarkable duenna--Toothless and voiceless--Smiles upon H. C.--Nearly expires--Civilised chef--A procession--Lerida Dragon...

52. CHAPTER XX.

Lerida by daylight--Second city in Catalonia--Past history--Days of the Goths--And Moors--Becomes a bishopric--Troublous times--Brave people--Striking cathedral--Splendid outlin...

53. CHAPTER XXI.

Days of chivalry not over--In the evening light--Night porter grateful--Dragon in full force--Combative and revengeful--Equal to the occasion--Gall turns to sweetness when H. C....

54. CHAPTER XXII.

Broad plains of Aragon--Wonderful tones--Approaching Zaragoza--Celestial vision--Distance lends enchantment--Commonplace people--The ancient modernised--Disillusion followed by...

55. CHAPTER XXIII.

Bygone days--Sumptuous roosting--Old exchange--Traders of taste--Glory of Aragon--Cathedral of La Seo--Modernised exterior--Interior charms and mesmerises--Next to Barcelona--Ma...

56. CHAPTER XXIV.

El Pilar by day--In the old cathedral--The canon reproachful--Equal to the occasion--No pressure needed--_Un diner maigre_--Dream of forty years--True to time--Juanita--Fruits o...

57. CHAPTER XXV.

Tarragona by night--Cathedral--Moonlight vision--Dream-fabric--Deserted streets--Ghostly form approaches--Quilp or Quasimodo?--Redeeming qualities--Pale spiritual face--Open ses...

58. CHAPTER XXVI.

Charms of Tarragona--Roman traces--Cyclopean remains--Augustus closes Temple of Janus--Great past--House of Pontius Pilate--Views from ramparts--Feluccas with white sails set--L...

59. CHAPTER XXVII.

Our ubiquitous host--Curious mixture of nations--Francisco--His enthusiasm carries the point--French lessons--English prejudice--Landlord's lament--Days of fair Provence--Franci...

60. CHAPTER XXVIII.

A dream-world--Ruins--Chapel of St. George--Archways and Gothic windows--Atmosphere of the Middle Ages--Convent doorway--Summons but no response--Door opens at last--Comfortable...

61. CHAPTER XXIX.

Day visions--All passes away--End of the feast--Francisco gathers up the fragments--Ghosts of the past--Outside the monastery--Oasis in a desert--After the vintage--Francisco gl...

62. CHAPTER XXX.

Charms of Tarragona--Dream of the past--Quasimodo comes not--Of another world--Host's offer--Francisco inconsolable--A mixed sorrow--No more holidays--List of grievances--Fair s...

63. CHAPTER XXXI.

First impressions--Devoted to pleasure--Peace-loving--Climate makes gay and lively--New element--Few traces of the past--Old palaces--Steals into the affections--City of the Cid...

64. CHAPTER XXXII.

Port and harbour--Sunday and fresh air--In the market-place--De Nevada protests--A curse of the country--In the days gone by--On the breakwater--Invaded tramcar--De Nevada confi...