Part 1
Produced by David E. Brown and The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)
FRYE'S
PRACTICAL
CANDY MAKER
COMPRISING PRACTICAL RECEIPTS
FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF
Fine "Hand-Made" Candies,
ESPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR
FINE RETAIL TRADE.
BY G. V. FRYE, PRACTICAL CANDY MAKER, CHICAGO, ILL.
Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1884, by G. V. FRYE, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. Rights of Translation reserved.
COPY-RIGHT SECURED.
I authorize any lawyer, or other person, in the United States, to notify me should any one attempt to reprint the foregoing receipts. I will pay them, and all infringments will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law.
G. V. FRYE
PRESS OF E. J. DECKER, CHICAGO.
PREFACE.
It is not my intention in presenting this volume to the trade to write a long, dry dissertation on Confectionery, but to give plain practical receipts for the manufacture of fine Hand-made Counter Goods, and as I make no pretensions to literary merit, I hope to disarm criticism.
The work is the fruit of years of personal experience in the manufacture of fine candies, and though containing much, it does not pretend to teach all that a candy-maker should know; that must be learned by years of practice. Although not perfect, confectioners will find this little volume a useful one, if not invaluable. Its utility even to those who are skilled in the art of candy making appears to the writer to be great. But it is more especially designed for confectioners whose business does not justify their securing the services of skilled workmen. Many confectioners would be glad to exhibit to their customers a fine display of choice hand-made candies, knowing that by so doing they would soon increase their trade, but the wages of a good workman, in this line, are high, and he can not afford to keep one. The prices asked for the goods, by those that will wholesale them, make them too expensive to be practical, and at the same time the goods do not ship in good order, even if he had a favorable opportunity of buying them, so he is obliged to handle a line of cheap goods, which seldom give any satisfaction, or at least, do not create a desire for candies from his place; hence, his trade, or what should be his trade, is swallowed up by those whose goods are fresh and tempting. To such, the importance of this little volume, ready at call, to assist the confectioner in making a fine line of counter goods, is too plain to require discussion.
In conclusion, I earnestly hope these practical receipts will be an acceptable offering to a very large number of confectioners, whose prosperity I would promote. To them it is commended with the respects of the author.
G. V. FRYE.
CONTENTS.
SUGAR. PAGE
How to Select, 9 Facts for the Workman, 9-10 Degrees of Boiling, either with Thermometer, Saccharometer, or Water Cook, 11-13
COLORS.
Kinds to Use, and How to Make, 14-16
STICK CANDY.
Peppermint, 17 Lemon, 19 Wintergreen, 19 Cinnamon, 19 Sassafras, 19 Cloves, 19
FRUIT ROCK.
Strawberry, 20-21 Lemon Slices, 22 Checkerboard, 22-23 Lettered Candy, 23
COUGH, AND OTHER DROPS.
Lemon, or Sour, 24 Mint, "New" and "Old Style," 24-25 Malt, 25 Lime Juice, 25 Wild Cherry, 26 Hoarhound, 26 Boneset, 27 Iceland Moss, 27 Flaxseed, 27 Eng. Barley Sugar, 27 Tar, 28 Fruit, In Five Flavors, 28-29
TAFFIES.
Vanilla, 30 Pine Apple, 30 Lemon, 31 Chocolate, 31 Cocoanut, 31 Molasses, "Old" and "New Style," 31-32
TAFFIES, (EXTRA FINE).
Hickory Nut, 33 Walnut, 33 Cocoanut, 33 Brazil, 34
BAR CANDIES.
Brown Almond, 35 Blanched Almond, 35 Peanut, 36 Sliced Cocoanut, 36 Brazil, 36 English Walnut, 36 Fruit, 36 Molasses Sliced Cocoanut, 37 Black Walnut, 37-38
CARAMELS.
Vanilla, No. 1, 39 " No. 2, 40 Maple, 40 Strawberry, 40 Cocoanut, 40 Honey, 41 Pulled, 41 Chocolate, Plain, 41 Chocolate, Cream, 42 Vanilla, Opera, 42 Maple, Opera, 43 Chocolate, " 43 Nut, 43
BUTTER CUPS.
Butter, 44 Hickory Nut, 44-45 Nectar, 46 Walnut, 46 Cocoanut, 46 Chocolate, 46 Lemon, or Sour, 47 Fruit, 47
COCOANUT GOODS.
Cocoanut Bar, White, 48 " " Red, 48 " " Yellow, 48 Vanilla Cocoanut Paste, 49 Strawberry " " 49 Maple " " 49 Chocolate " " 49 White Cocoanut Cakes, 49 Molasses " " 50 Cocoanut Potatoes, 50 " Biscuits, 51 " Jap, 51 Molasses Cocoanut Jap, 52 Spanish Cocoanut Kisses, 52
ALMOND GOODS.
Almond Paste, 53 " Gems, 53 Cream Almonds, 54 Burnt " 55 Salted " 56 Almond Nougat, 56-57
MISCELLANEOUS GOODS.
Fruit Cake, 58 Nut " 58 Cream Peppermints, 58 " Wintergreens, 59 Small Mint Drops, 59 Molasses Mint Drops, 59 Mint Cakes, 60 " Kisses, 60 Lemon Cakes, 60 Boston Chips, 60 Flake Candies, 61 Strings of Comfort, 61 Pan Creams, 62 Butter Scotch, 62 Maple Cream for Counter, 62 Cream Bars, or Baby Cream, 63 Fig Bar, 64 Fig Paste, 64 Jelly Gum Drops, Lemon, 65 " " Rose, 65 A. B. Gum Drops, "Old Style," 65 Cordial Drops, 66 Marshmallow Drops, 66 Glace Nuts and Fruits, 67-68
CREAM GOODS.
Cream, or Fondant, 69 Fondant for Dipping, 69 How to Flavor and Color Cream, 70 Syrup for Crystallizing, 70 Casting In Starch, 71 Maple Fondant, 72 Dipped Bonbons, 72 Cordials Dipped, 73 Dipped Maple Bonbons, 73 Chocolate Bonbons, 74 Conserve " 74 Dipped Jelly Gums, 75 Cocoanut Marshmallow Bonbons, 75 Fruit Icings, 76 Almond Icings, 76 Hickory Nut Icings, 77 Fruit Nougat, 77 Cream Walnuts, 78 " Dates, 78 " Cherries and Raisins, 79 Cream Bonbons, 79 Jelly Cream Bonbons, 79 Conserve Bonbons, 80 " Icings, 80 Log Icings, 81 Acorn Bonbons, 82 Fig Creams, 82 Jelly Rolls, 83 Almond Confits, 83 Crab Apples, 83 Pine Apple Creams, 84
CHOCOLATE WORK.
How to make Chocolate Cream Drops, 85 To make Sweet Chocolate from Plain, 86 Pralines or Fancy Chocolates, 87 Varnish for Chocolate Work, 88 Apple Jelly, 88 Apricot " 89 Preserving Fruits, 89 Glazed Fruits, 90 Brandied Cherries, 90
SYRUPS FOR THE SODA WATER FOUNTAIN.
Simple Syrup, 91 Vanilla, 92 Chocolate, 92 Coffee, 93 Lemon, 93 Orange, 94 Strawberry, 94 Raspberry, 94 Blackberry, 94 Pine Apple, 94 Cherry, 94 Peach and Apricot, 94 Nectar, 95 Catawba, 95 Orgeat, or Almond, 95 Ginger, 96 Cream, 96 Sherbert, 96 Sarsaparilla, 96 Cayenne, 96 Cinnamon, 96 Maple, 96
SUGAR.
In selecting Sugar the confectioner must bear in mind that it is the foundation of all confectionery, and he can not expect to manufacture first-class goods except from first-class material; hence, select only Sugar that is perfectly dry and of uniform quality, and in white, hard, sparkling crystals; only such Sugar will give satisfaction.
In addition to selecting Sugar, particular attention must be paid to the changes that Sugar undergoes in passing from one degree to another while cooking, and also its action when united with such ingredients as cream of tartar, glucose, molasses, nuts, fruits, etc. This must be done if one expects to be a proficient workman in the art of making fine candies.
FACTS FOR THE WORKMAN.
To have the following receipts produce the results desired certain conditions are imposed on the workman. In the first place, the best of Confectioner's Sugar must be used. Second, one quart of water to each six pounds of sugar, unless more than eighteen pounds is used, in which case, add only one pint of water to each additional six pounds. Third, the amount of cream of tartar or glucose mentioned in each receipt. Fourth, that all goods are to be cooked over a rapid fire unless otherwise ordered. To show the importance of this I will illustrate: In several places I have said "cook the sugar until it begins to turn yellow or about 330 deg. by the thermometer." Now, if the best sugar, right amount of cream of tartar and water, and the batch is boiled over a rapid fire, it will not vary but a degree or so from turning at 330 deg., but if a lower grade of sugar is used, more cream of tartar, more water, and the batch is boiled over a slow fire, the sugar will turn probably before the batch reaches 300 deg., and the goods when made would soon become sticky and unfit for the counter. There are often times when a poorer grade of sugar must be worked and there is no reason why poor goods should be made from it, but good judgment is necessary. If the sugar is damp, use only water enough to dissolve it, use less cream of tartar and cook over a very rapid fire; yet, such sugar can not be used for first-class goods, and should not be used at all unless the best can not be procured.
In flavoring candies never use ether flavors, only pure fruit extracts and oils.
Put all hard sugar goods, as soon as made, into air tight tin boxes, so they are not exposed to the atmosphere until needed for the counter.
In coloring the cheaper grades of hard candies, always make decided colors, but in the finer hard goods and cream work make only delicate shades.
Always dissolve cream of tartar in a small quantity of water before adding it to the batch.
DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR.
THREAD.
The first degree found in boiling Sugar is called the Thread. The manner of ascertaining this is: having placed the batch on the furnace, which for example we will call six pounds of sugar and one quart of water, stir with a wooden spatula or skimming ladle until dissolved, having boiled a short time, raise the skimmer from the batch, pass the fore finger of the left hand across it, retaining on the end of the finger some of the syrup; now place the end of the finger on the thumb, and separate them, if a thread is formed between them, which breaks and settles on the thumb, the degree is reached. By the thermometer this degree is 220, by saccharometer 33 deg.
PEARL.
The next degree is the Pearl, and is indicated by trying as before, and if able to separate finger and thumb to fullest extent, the degree is reached. The thermometer will show at this degree, 226 deg., saccharometer, 37 deg.
BLOW.
Continue the boiling, and raising the skimmer, blow through it, if small air bubbles appear on opposite side, the blow is reached, and the thermometer will show 230 deg., saccharometer, 40 deg.
FEATHER.
Proceed with the boiling a few minutes, raise the skimmer and blow through it as before, if a greater number of air bubbles appear the degree is reached. The thermometer will indicate 236 deg., saccharometer, 42 deg.
SOFT BALL.
The next degree is the Soft Ball, and is determined in the following manner: Place a measure of cold water near the furnace, and after inserting the right hand in the water reach in the batch with two fore fingers and bring out a small portion of syrup, immediately putting your hand back in the water, and if you can work the syrup into a soft ball in the water it has reached that degree. The thermometer showing 240 deg., saccharometer, 44 deg.
HARD BALL.
In a short time try as before, and if you can form the syrup into a hard ball that will stick to the teeth, when bitten, the degree is reached. The thermometer showing 248 deg., the saccharometer after this degree ceases to indicate correctly.
SOFT CRACK.
The next degree reached, after continuing the boiling for a short time, is the Soft Crack. Try in the water, as before, and if the syrup cracks when pressed by the finger and thumb, but on holding a moment, forms into a hard ball again, it is the degree sought. The thermometer shows this degree to be 252 deg.
CRACK.
Test as before, and if the syrup cracks easily and will not form a ball, it has reached the crack. The thermometer marks this degree 260.
HARD CRACK.
The next degree we use, is when after being tested as before, it cracks like egg shells, and will eat up readily. The thermometer shows at this degree 290 deg.
The degrees higher than the Hard Crack or 290 deg. are used only for such goods as machine drops, stick candies, etc., and will be explained as we proceed.
COLORS.
In choosing Colors for candy, certain qualifications are necessary. First, they must not fade or change when exposed to the light. Second, they must not be easily affected by acids or alkalies; hence, it has been difficult to produce colors that are reasonably permanent and at the same time harmless. Yet the following will be found as near perfect as any yet produced.
RED, COCHINEAL COLOR.
Put on the fire, in a copper basin, two quarts of water; when it comes to a boil, add one fourth of a pound powdered Alum; then the same amount of powdered Cochineal; next, the same quantity of Salts of Tartar; let it boil a minute, stirring all the time, then set off the fire, and stir in six ounces Cream of Tartar; place again on the fire, and boil about five minutes; then strain through a fine sieve; when cool enough, put into a glass jar. Do not cover it, as it keeps much better when open to the air.
CARMINE.
Take a three or four ounce bottle, fill half full of best No. 40 Carmine, and add Ammonia sufficient to fill the bottle; shake well, and it is ready for use.
YELLOW, SAFFRON COLOR.
Put into a basin one pint of water, add to it two ounces of Spanish Saffron, twelve ounces of Sugar, and one ounce of powdered Alum, boil these together for eight or ten minutes, then strain through a damp flannel bag; when cold add to it one gill of Spirits of Wine, and bottle for use.
ANOTHER YELLOW.
This is made in the same way as the above, except use Fustic, instead of Saffron, and one quart of water; it comes cheaper, but when used with powdered sugar often turns brown, as much of the powdered sugar contains traces of iron, being ground in iron mills; but used with other goods it produces a bright yellow.
ORANGE.
This is made by adding red color to the yellow, and is done, as you need it, by simply coloring, whatever you want orange, a bright yellow, then add to it a few drops of red.
GREEN.
Take one peck of fresh Spinach, rub it to a pulp in a mortar, squeeze from it all juice possible, and put it in a basin on the fire, and it will soon curdle, as milk does when sour; immediately set off and strain through a fine sieve; take the curd and add to it its bulk in powdered Sugar, a few drops of Spirits of Wine, and what powdered Alum you can hold on the point of a pen knife; bottle for use. Another nice green can be made by adding to the second formula given for making yellow, a sufficient quantity of Indigo to make it the shade desired.
BLUE.
Powder one-half ounce of Indigo, add to it enough Simple Syrup to make it the consistency of cream, and one-half ounce Spirits of Wine.
BURNT SUGAR COLOR.
Take any quantity of scrap, dissolve and strain them, set on the fire and cook until it begins to burn; now deaden the fire a little and let burn slowly until very black, and the syrup, when raising the spatula, does not run off freely; then add, very slowly, two gallons of boiling water to each ten pounds of syrup, cooked by means of a long handled dipper, pouring a stream no larger than a straw at first, when all is added; let boil a few moments, then put into a crock for use.
STICK CANDIES.
As this line of goods are sold so cheap, the manufacturer of it is almost entirely confined to the wholesale factory, the retailer preferring to buy rather than to make it; yet, for those who may wish to make their own, below will be found a formula which will make first-class goods, but it must be remembered that considerable practice and good taste is necessary to make nice stick candy.
PEPPERMINT STICK.