Part 9
Many of the streets here are lined with beautiful trees. The pride of China, looking much like the pepper-tree of California, is very abundant. It has a heavier foliage, and many would prefer it to the pepper-tree. Then we find another tree they call the macher, and one has to see it in order to know its beauty. It is large, some twenty-five feet high, and literally covered from top to bottom with a blue or purple flower; and you will never pass one without admiration.
Wednesday, the 15th, we were all invited to a reception at the college from 3 to 7 P.M. Being one and one-half miles away, carriages took us there, and came for us at 7 P.M. The college buildings are located on high ground away from the business part of the city, close to the blue sea, so near seemingly that you could throw a stone into its waters. They were hoping to give us a chance to view and admire one of their beautiful sunsets; but, unfortunately, it was cloudy. The Lebanon Mountains with their variegated green, and the blue waters of the Mediterranean, with the expiring rays of day mingled with the shadows of coming night, form a picture that will satisfy the eye of all lovers of the beautiful.
We were shown through the college buildings, and were very much interested. The museum was fine. They have a fine chapel, given by Mr. Monroe, of New York, seating one thousand people. William E. Dodge in his day did much for this institution. His sons are still interested. They have a fine astronomical observatory, with fine telescope with twelve-inch glass, manufactured by Warren & Swazey, of Cleveland, Ohio, at a cost of over eight thousand dollars.
At five o’clock we went to the spread in large rooms, suitable for the occasion. Tea, coffee, and lemonade, and such biscuits and cake we have not looked upon or tasted since we left America. It was like attending a church sociable. They have connected with this college a medical department with a four years’ course of study, turning out thorough physicians that have been successful in their vocation.
We found the president and professors, with their wives, daughters, and sons, remarkably cordial and social; and we came away feeling indebted to them for a royal good time, which we placed in the book of our remembrance, and it will be one of the pleasantest episodes of the Congregationalist tour.
This American mission, now Presbyterian, has been at work in Syria since 1821. We have also visited the girls’ school, publishing house, and church connected with this mission. Many eminent and scientific men have been connected with this work, such as Eli Smith, Van Dyck, Thompson, and others. They have a beautiful Sunday-school chapel, built on the spot where Van Dyck translated the first Arabic Bible. This chapel has its class-rooms with sliding glass doors, and would do credit to any American city. In the church they have service every Sunday at nine o’clock in English, and at eleven o’clock in Arabic. We attended the English service. They have a fine organ, excellent choir, having a fine soprano singer. The publishing house is doing a good business, turning out many Bibles in Arabic and publishing a paper. But the government annoys them in this matter. Nothing can be printed in this line without first being sent to the censor. If there is anything he does not like, he draws his pen through it; and that ends the matter. The government is very jealous, and the mails are watched closely. It is hard to get a newspaper in or out of Turkey. Every telegram is examined by some government official. No cipher telegrams can be sent from this country. However, this printing establishment has pluck and forbearance, and are employing over fifty hands, doing some fine work, and are waiting for the sun of righteousness and freedom to arise and shine, which, they believe, is sure to crown their labors.
We find there is a section of country here, called Lebanon, that is ruled by a Christian governor. He is appointed once in five years by the sultan; but the European powers dictate in the matter, and will not allow a Mohammedan to be appointed. This territory includes the range of the Lebanon Mountains, also the Anti-Lebanon, and the valley lying between. These mountains I have referred to in writing up Baalbec, and spoke of the improvement of the people of that place, especially the female portion.
I believe the Christian nations should and will erelong make a demand on Turkey, and not allow the iron hand of superstition to grind the people any longer. Beyrout in appearance is not old enough to be called antique nor young enough to be giddy. Its early history has nothing startling. It was at one time destroyed in consequence of its rebellion against Antiochus VII., but afterwards was rebuilt by the Romans, and named Augustus Felix after the Emperor Augustus, with a view to pleasing his friends.
Herod Agrippa at one time embellished it with baths and theatres, and caused combats of gladiators to be exhibited, etc. After the destruction of Jerusalem, Titus caused numerous Jews to enter the lists against each other. At one time it was held by the Druses. In 1840 it was bombarded by an English fleet without much damage, and recaptured for the Turks. But the days of war are passing by, yet there are more swords than ploughshares in Syria to-day. But we expect to see the transformation take place soon, when the people will rejoice.
X.
According to our itinerary we should have left Beyrout the 15th; but the running of the steamers had lately been changed; and we were obliged to wait until the 19th, giving us some eight days in Beyrout. But the American consul and our college friends made it so pleasant for us that the time passed very quickly.
Our party have avoided as far as possible travelling on the Sabbath. Only once before since we left have we encroached on holy time. When we left Port Saïd, we took steamer for Jaffa Sunday afternoon; and Sunday, the 19th, our steamer was to leave Beyrout for Athens at twelve o’clock. Rev. Mr. Horton of our party preached at nine in the morning to the college boys and others. Text, “I am not ashamed of the gospel of Christ.”
At 11.30 we were all on board the “Senegal,” a French steamer, four hundred and twenty feet long and 600 horse-power engines. It was the finest running boat we have yet had the privilege of travelling on. She runs through the blue waters of the Mediterranean like a duck, counting off about fifteen knots per hour. She is the personification of neatness, and the cuisine is excellent; and, after having so much Syrian and gum Arabic _table d’hôte_, we certainly enjoyed the French cooking. Many of our Beyrout friends came on board to bid us farewell; and, as we steamed out of the harbor, we could look back upon College Hill, and see the waving of handkerchiefs, which we returned as the last good-by.
We took a south-west course, and before sundown we were running along near the island of Cyprus. This island, one hundred or more miles long, is Turkish territory; but the English government has leased it, paying ninety thousand pounds per year. This was done as a military strategy. The English hold the north end of the Mediterranean with Gibraltar. The south end is held by this island. They keep a part of their navy and soldiers here, and can throw them very quickly into Egypt or anywhere in the Turkish provinces.
Monday morning the sun rose clear, a fresh breeze from the west, and the sea looked like watered silk, while our engines in their quiet way are pushing us through the blue waters. Everybody seems happy. You can have a cup of coffee from 7 to 9, and breakfast at 10, lunch at 1, dinner at 6, and tea and crackers at 8.30. Retire when you please.
About three o’clock in the afternoon we were coasting along the shore of Asia Minor. At our right the hills and mountains had thrust themselves, as it were, down into the sea, forming a promontory. Back in the distance could be seen the snow-capped mountains. The country looked rugged; but no doubt there were many fertile valleys and plains nestled among those rugged cliffs that stood ready to be the first to greet all mariners and passengers going up and down the Mediterranean.
Tuesday we are to pass the island of Rhodes. Finding the morning clear and bright with a smooth sea, about 9 A.M. we bear to the right, and run up into a beautiful bay, with hills and elevations on both sides of us, studded with trees and foliage of green. In some places the channel is quite narrow, reminding us of different places on the Hudson. About one hour’s sail, and we anchor at a modern-looking town of Vathy, on the island of Samos. Our steamer put off and takes on merchandise here, and will remain the rest of the day, giving us a chance to go ashore. No backsheesh will be called for here; for, as they say, every one is rich.
Samos is Turkish, but, like Lebanon, has a right to a Christian governor, the European powers dictating in the matter; and we see no mud houses and squalor that is seen in most of the Turkish provinces. It is said that they make the finest wine in the world, that being the main product. Our steamer is loading it by the quantity. They import as it were nothing, but export much. Hence we can understand how they grow wealthy. We take on three hundred and fifty casks that weigh almost a ton to a cask. We have wandered upon the side of the mountain, looked the people over, and talked with those that could talk English. We see no veiled women, the dress of all being quite American; and we are delighted with Vathy. The island of Samos, which is seventy miles in circumference, the people pay the Turkish government two thousand pounds a year for, and then run things as they please. A cannon was fired at sundown, and the sweet notes of the bugle sounded, notifying the people that twilight was soon to settle down upon them. There are forty thousand people on the island.
At 7.30 the “Senegal” weighed anchor, and headed her prow down the bay; and the crescent-shaped town that had climbed from the shore up the mountain a mile or more threw out its lights, and our farewell look at Vathy was a beautiful one, and will be long remembered.
Wednesday morning before we had left our cabin our steamer had cast anchor; and the jabbering of the native boatmen was all about as we hurried on deck, and found that we were in front of a town of some twenty thousand inhabitants, being the city of Smyrna. We have been sailing over some of the route that Paul went over when going up to Jerusalem. (See Acts xx.) John, in Revelation, speaks of Smyrna as having endured. (See Rev. ii. 8, 9.)
Smyrna stands next to Constantinople in commercial importance, being second in the Turkish empire. It has a fine harbor, buildings stretching along the bay for miles, then gradually rising back on the hills that line the coast. On the top of the hill are the ruins of an old stone castle or fort. South of this you will find the tomb of Polycarp, the first martyred bishop. Smyrna was once a walled city. The old ruined wall and stone aqueduct that formerly supplied the city with water are among the things of interest that you will want to look over. We find Smyrna remarkably neat for this country. Good water and plenty of it, and good sewerage.
The bazaars are far above the average of those we have seen since entering the Turkish territory. Many fine stores with many French goods in them are to be found here. There are two things here that are household words with us in America; that is, Smyrna rugs and figs. We have seen stacks of the former, and have had fine figs at our command. The American Board of Missions have a hold on the people here in Smyrna. Rev. Mr. Bartlett, who at one time preached at Morrisville, Vt., is at the head, with several helpers. The work is among the young. We have visited the mission, and the missionaries have called on us on board the “Senegal.”
The sultan of Turkey is strong in his Mohammedan belief; and he is watching the influence that true Christianity is having on his people with a jealous eye, and is bound to hold them with rods of iron.
Thursday morning we take small boats for the shore, and then take the street-cars down the bay for a mile, where we find a special train for Ephesus, some forty-eight miles. We take an easterly course, finding our way through the hills that line the shores of the Mediterranean, and soon begin to open out upon a broad plain. We first go through a place called Paradise; but we enter it through a large burying-ground, which seemed rather suggestive. But on we go; and the valley becomes miles in width, covered with fig trees, some olive vineyards, etc. Off at your right you will see trains of camels coming and returning to and from Smyrna, loaded with grain and merchandise from and for the interior. Farther on you will see large herds of sheep. From these come the wool for the Smyrna rugs.
After one and one-half hours of enjoyable riding, the hills and mountains that have guarded us on each side seemed to come together close to us, and form a gateway through which we pass, coming into a valley nearly surrounded by hills, where once was the great city of Ephesus, referred to in Acts xviii. 19. To-day there are only two or three hundred people. See what John says, Rev. ii. 4-10. But you can ride miles and over hundreds of acres, and see old ruins. One thing very peculiar is, as you go into the town, every old column and minaret seems to be topped out with a stork, standing there in its loneliness. The tip of the wings and tail is black, while the rest of the body is white.
The modern name of this place is Ayassacook. I think it ought to be Storkville. The nests of the storks are on these columns. A short distance west of this little village is quite an elevation, on which are the ruins of an old Roman castle. You ascend to that point, and you get a view of the whole valley. Down at the base on the south side are quite respectable ruins of an old mosque. A little farther on you will see men at work excavating, and it proves to be the site of that wonderful temple of Diana of the Ephesians.
They have decided to learn more of that building that Demetrius stirred up such a commotion about among the people, regarding the shrines of Diana, and are spending money in digging over the ruins. I have always admired the town clerk they had at that time, and looked about for some of his documents, but was not able to find them. His counsel, you will remember, was not to be rash. If Paul had done anything wrong, they had the law. He seemed to be level-headed. (See Acts xix. from 35th verse.)
From this elevation, looking west about two miles distant, you see the waters of the Mediterranean. Ephesus used to be a great seaport and commercial city; but Smyrna has stolen its thunder, and all this kind of traffic is at Smyrna to-day. Righteousness exalteth a nation, but sin is a reproach to any people. The best thing we saw at Ephesus was a comfortable little hotel where we went for lunch. The proprietor showed us his register for 1878, where General U. S. Grant had booked his name. He felt quite proud of having had so noted a guest.
3 P.M. found us back at Smyrna. At four we were steaming out of the bay. Friday about noon we reached Thessalonica, a town of a hundred and twenty thousand people, one-half Jews. It is beautiful for situation, forming a crescent around the bay. A portion of the place rises up to quite a height; yet there is much level or rolling land in and beyond the city; and it has an extra fine farming country back of it. The business is largely trade with the surrounding country. It has one cotton mill, and they would like a woollen mill to make flannel. Wool, cotton, and cereals are their main products. Our steamer remained at Thessalonica until Saturday morning. The Congregational party went ashore, and took carriages through the city, found many good buildings, thought it a comparatively neat town. We saw some native Albanians. They wore a white pleated skirt, very full, coming down about to the knees, reminding me of ballet girls.
The dress of the people of the country we have been travelling through the last six weeks has for its watchword “variety.” You see everything that fashion is heir to, colors vying with the rainbow; and you can be entertained at any time by standing on the corner of the street or sitting on your hotel piazza, and watch the surging crowds as they pass by.
Reaching Athens nearly finishes our travels on the Mediterranean, having been on her waters in all some fifteen days. She has behaved beautifully, though we understand she is capable of getting her back up and making things lively; but she has lately been on her good behavior, and passed us over her smooth waters, giving us a charming ride. At times we were out of sight of land, but usually we could see the foot of hills and mountains, sometimes towering so high as to hold the frost of winters firmly in their grasp. We have enjoyed many an hour on deck, watching the light shade to crimson, blue, gray, and green, changing like the kaleidoscope,--the brilliant rays of morning, the soft and beautiful shades of twilight. This and the pleasant chatting with those who but three months ago were strangers to us, but now are cherished friends,--all this environment rushes in upon us to fill the book of memory with a richness that will be a joy to us as time rolls on.
We have been sailing through the archipelago, and have passed the plains of Marathon, where the Athenians fought and won that terrible battle with great odds against them with Darius the Persian. Saturday night we were informed that we should reach the Piræus, which is the port of Athens, at five o’clock Sunday morning. Wishing to get a view of the harbor and city that was at one time the wonder of the world, I decided to be on deck at four o’clock. The boat proved to be an hour late. Therefore, I had a chance to enjoy the whole scene. When I reached deck, the hills on each side were gathering down upon us; but erelong we spied in the distance the Acropolis with its ragged top, standing back from the shore, but showing us the location of Socrates’s home. Soon on the shore we could see tall chimneys and a cluster of buildings which proved to be the Piræus. The “Senegal” steamed up the harbor, and anchored not very far from shore. Boatmen were on hand, and men, women, and baggage were soon landed on _terra firma_; and we soon found ourselves in some fine landaus, and were driven five miles over as fine a road as is usually found in any country. The cars run up to the city; but carriages seemed to be the order of the day, landing us at the Grand Hotel, where we found breakfast ready and everything more than satisfactory. Will give you a picture of Athens in my next letter.
LETTER FROM GREECE.
ATHENS, May 29, 1895.
The last port we left before reaching this place was on Turkish territory. The streets were full of Turkish trousers, turbans, and the fez, with all the brilliant colors that Persian dyes would make. But, when we reached the Piræus, a place of three thousand nine hundred people, which is the front door and vestibule of Athens, we found that the baggy Turkish trousers had wonderfully diminished in size. The brilliant colors had become sombre, the turbans and the fez had been laid away in the archives of the past, and the American hat is touched as you meet the people. For a little spice you would occasionally meet an Albanian with his white pleated skirt coming down to within some four inches of the knee, with tight leggings coming up as high as the law will allow. The full Grecian sleeves and waist trimmed with gold lace, the sleeves hanging down below the elbow, made a very jaunty suit,--something that will cause you to leave all the rest of mankind, and gaze till your curiosity is satisfied.
When we landed and met the people of this country, we noticed that the gesticulating, exciting motions we had been accustomed to were missing; but everything they said was Greek to us, and all we could say was nonentenday. However, we prefer the Athenians to the Turks and Syrians.
The Piræus is modern and full of thrift, has a fine harbor full of merchant vessels, and is doing a large inland business. In ancient times one of the old kings walled in the Piræus with Athens, running the walls from the coast up around Athens, making the two places one, although they are some four or five miles apart. As you take the drive up the valley from the Piræus, you will see the relics of the old walls. When you reach the city, you will find there is an old and new Athens. The historical and beautiful Athens was once the hub of the world. Art, science, literature, poetry, and sculpture were once centred here; and, as you walk about the city, you are constantly being reminded that the glory of these things has not entirely departed. From the ruins of the old temples they are digging up the Corinthian, Doric, and Ionic columns and architecture.
In the new and beautiful buildings this same style is being reproduced. This city reminds us of Rome in many things. Rome has one advantage; and that is an abundance of water, which Athens is not favored with. Statuary abounds in both cities. You will see Plato, Socrates, Demosthenes, and that class of men, sitting or standing in the public places or connected with the public buildings of Athens.
If you are going to look over the city, the first thing to do is to go with me to the Acropolis, the word meaning height of the city. Nature held out a helping hand to the kings, and threw up a conical hill some two hundred feet high, not round, but oblong. The top is of lime-rock or granite and flat, with a surface of some two acres, being precipitous except on the west side. The kings threw a wall around the edge of the top of this elevation, and on the top built the temples. The entrance on the west side was guarded by what is called Enneapzion Pilasgikon, or nine gates. This place became the home of the Athenian kings. Here they sat in judgment, and assembled their councils.
Later these were removed to the town, and the Acropolis devoted to the gods. These temples were at one time destroyed by the Persians, and were rebuilt in greater splendor than ever by Pericles. The Pantheon was its pride, and when at its best, with its white marble and gold, with the Erechtheion, was the glory of the city, and has gone into history as one of the wonders of the world. Its present destruction, with part of its temples standing and the ground strewn with broken columns, is due to an officer of a besieging army firing a bomb into a magazine of powder that was stored on the Acropolis.
As you stand there, looking down the bay, you see the Piræus. Beyond, some thirty miles, you see Acrocorinthus, showing the location of Corinth. As you turn and look south, at the foot of the hill is the theatre of Bacchus. This was without a covering; and the stage was at the bottom of the hill, while the seats were in amphitheatre style, coming up to the upright walls of the Acropolis. The seats were of stone. In the first rows were marble chairs for the great men of the nation. In the centre was a marble platform in which sat the king. The theatre would seat thirty thousand. At the right was a colonnade built, where they could go between the acts and promenade at pleasure. A little farther to the right was the Odeion, a small theatre built of stone in the same way, only it was covered.