Category: Travel Writing

From the Indus to the Tigris

Departure from Multán—The Chenáb and the Indus—_Tria juncta in uno_—Interesting fact for naturalists—Shikárpúr—Jacobabad—A plundered _káfila_—Afghan effrontery—Interesting rencontre—Barshori—Sinjarani—Odhána—False alarm—Gandáva—Kotra—Disorderly baggage ponies—Pír Chhatta—Muham...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I.

Departure from Multán—The Chenáb and the Indus—_Tria juncta in uno_—Interesting fact for naturalists—Shikárpúr—Jacobabad—A plundered _káfila_—Afghan effrontery—Interesting renco...

2. CHAPTER II.

The Míloh Pass—Nah-langa Tangí—The Khánzai Brahoe—Pír Lákha—The Pír and the dragon—Scene of assassination of Sherdil Khán—Khozdár—Roadside memorials—The Brahoe—Brahoe gratitude—...

3. CHAPTER III.

Súráb to Calát—Reception by the Khán—The Court of Calát—Description of Calát—Mundi Hájí—An efficacious charm—Our hostess and the mirror—Mastung—Military honours—Nishpá Pass—Shál...

4. CHAPTER IV.

The Kákarrs—The Náib and the Malik—The Afghan Commissioner—The Peshín valley—The Tarins—A numerous relationship—Kojak Pass—Topographical survey—Barghanah Pass—Sháh Ahmad, Durran...

5. CHAPTER V.

Kandahar—Afghan cookery—Visit to a gold-mine—Process of extraction—Antique porphyry bowl—City of Kandahar—Mausoleum of Ahmad Sháh—Discontent of the inhabitants—Oppression of the...

6. CHAPTER VI.

7. CHAPTER VII.

Rúdbár—The Garmsel—Ján Beg—Change of post-route—The plain of Sistan—An Afghan welcome—Sardár Ibráhím Khán, the murderer of Dr Forbes—Sardár Ahmad Khán and Mardán Khán—Sharíf Khá...

8. CHAPTER VIII.

9. CHAPTER IX.

Kol Márút—Mythical inscription—Khyrabad—Lásh—News of Lord Mayo’s death—Calá Koh—Singular acoustic phenomenon—Duroh—Husenabad—The Sarbesha plateau—Birjand—Trade and products—Dist...

10. CHAPTER X.

Birjand to Ghíbk—Depopulation of inhabitants—Sihdih—Persian rights of perquisite—Gháyn—The Hájí’s advice—Change of route—A noisy dispute—Precautions against the Turkmans—Dashtí...

11. CHAPTER XI.

Mashhad—Procession through the city—Interviews with the Prince-Governor—Gratifying reception—Description of the city—Its industry and trade—Plain of Mashhad—District of Nishabor...

12. CHAPTER XII.

Treatment of Persian soldiers—Lásjird—Our Mirakhor—His _savoir faire_—The “Portals of delight”—Tehran—Destitution of the inhabitants—Arrangements for return—Shukrullah Beg—A ret...

13. CHAPTER XIII.

An enormous caravan—The Khaleva tribe—Karriud—Zuháb—Difficulties as to passport and escort—Their removal—Marauding Khaleva—Turko-Persian frontier—Quarantine—Sad disappointment—B...

14. CHAPTER I.

We left Multán by the morning train on the 26th December 1871, and after a ride of near an hour, alighted at Sher Sháh Ghát on the river bank. Here we took leave of our kind hos...

15. CHAPTER II.

We marched from Pír Chhatta at half-past seven next morning. After crossing a few marly banks, snow-white with saline encrustation, we entered a long narrow defile, bounded on t...

16. CHAPTER III.

Súráb is a populous valley, very fertile, and freely watered by many little streams from the mountains. Its elevation is about 5910 feet at Khán Calá, and consequently its winte...

17. CHAPTER IV.

_30th January._—Snow fell during the night, and this morning covers the whole plain to the depth of about six inches. We set out from Shál Kot at 9.10 A.M., under a salute from...

18. CHAPTER V.

We halted four days at Kandahar to recruit our cattle, and replace the broken-down ones by new purchases. Our entertainment all this time was most hospitable, and was really mor...

19. CHAPTER VI.

_18th February._—We marched from Ballakhan twenty-eight miles, and camped on the bank of the river Helmand, close under the citadel of Búst. The night proved stormy, and a good...

20. CHAPTER VII.

_29th February 1872._—Rúdbár consists of two small forts, about half-a-mile apart, on the left bank of the Helmand, which here flows in a full deep stream nearly two hundred yar...

21. mill. The following horizontal and vertical sections will illustrate the

The wind enters at A, marked in the horizontal section, and turning the flange opposite, brings round the next, and so on, and escapes at the wide southern opening. In some part...

22. CHAPTER VIII.

_8th March._—Nasírabad to Banjár, six miles, and halt two days. After passing along the north face of the fort, our route went north-east across a jangal of tamarisk, more or le...

23. CHAPTER IX.

_15th March._—Silyán to Lásh, eighteen miles, and halt two days. Our baggage proceeded by the direct route northward across the ruin-covered plain. The road is three or four mil...

24. CHAPTER X.

_2d April._—Marched from Birjand to Ghíbk or Ghínk, eighteen miles. The weather, which during our stay at Birjand had been delightfully mild and balmy, now changed and became bl...

25. CHAPTER XI.

_25th April._—Sharífabad to Mashhad, twenty-four miles. Weather cloudy and showery, with occasional glimpses of sunshine. We set out at seven A.M., and proceeded at first north-...

26. CHAPTER XII.

_24th May._—Shahrúd to Dih Mullah, sixteen miles. We set out at 5.30 A.M., bidding adieu to Mr Bower of our party, who at the same time set out for Astrabad _en route_ to London...

27. CHAPTER XIII.

_23d June._—Kirmánshah to Mydasht, twenty-three miles. Owing to the promptitude of the Wakiluddaula in meeting my wishes and expediting my journey (for I had told him my object...