Part 16

Of course one knows how it will all end. Ere long the unadulterated Celt will be driven or improved out of these islands, and will retire to other lands, where, mingling and intermarrying with Teutons, he will eventually disappear, but not without leavening the races amongst which he is destined to vanish. And who will take his place in the Long Island? Probably a few farmers, a few shepherds, and a sprinkling of gamekeepers; and it is just possible that a few fishermen also may be allowed to settle down here and there upon the coast. One may see the process going on at present. Large tracts that once supported many villages are now quite depopulated. The time will come when somebody in Parliament will move for the reduction of the Civil Service estimates by the amount of the sheriff-substitute's salary, and when the jail at Lochmaddy will have nothing higher in the scale of being to imprison than some refractory ram. One may be pardoned for wishing that he could foretell for the islands another fate than this. It is sad to think that a fine race of people is thus surely passing away from amongst us, for, despite all that can be urged against them, they are what I say. The fishermen of Lewis and Barra are bold, stalwart fellows, whom it would be difficult to peer amongst any similar class of men on the mainland. And all through the island one meets with equally excellent specimens of our kind. Many a brave soldier who fought our battles in the great French wars hailed from these outer islands. Pity it is that no feasible plan to prevent the threatened scattering of the race has yet been brought forward. Some day we may regret this, and come to think that though mutton and wool in the Long Island are desirable, yet islanders would have been better.

[Postscript.--On pages 153.4 I have described the second general ice-sheet that overflowed the Outer Hebrides as having eventually become resolved into a series of local ice-sheets and glaciers. Subsequent research, however, has since led me to believe that the district ice-sheets and local glaciers referred to were not the direct descendants of the last great ice-sheet. They appear to have come into existence long after that ice-sheet had entirely disappeared. _See_ Article X.]

VI.

The Ice Age in Europe and North America.[K]

[K] Address to the Geological Society of Edinburgh, 1884.

In casting about for a subject upon which to address you this evening, I thought I could hardly do better than give you the result of a comparison which I have recently been able to make between the glacial phenomena of Europe and North America. The subject of glaciation seems to be now somewhat worn; but I gather from the fact that writers can still be found who see in our superficial deposits strong evidence of the Deluge, that a short outline of what we really do know may not be unacceptable. In the short time at our disposal, it is obvious that I cannot enter into much detail, and that many interesting questions must remain untouched. It will be as well, therefore, that I should at the outset define the limits of the present inquiry, and state clearly what are the chief points to which I wish to direct your attention. My main object, then, will be to bring into prominence such evidence as seems to betoken in a special manner the uniformity of conditions that obtained in the northern hemisphere during the Ice Age. In other words, I shall confine myself to a description of certain characteristic and representative phenomena which are common to Europe and North America, with the view of showing that the physical conditions of the glacial period were practically the same in both continents.

The phenomena which might be considered under this head embrace nearly all the facts with which glacialists are familiar, but I purpose restricting myself to three questions only, viz.:--

1st. _The extent of glaciation._ 2nd. _Changes of climate during the Ice Age._ 3rd. _The results of fluvio-glacial action._

The consideration of these questions, even if it were exhaustive (which it cannot be on this occasion), would still leave the general subject very incomplete, for we must forego the discussion of all such interesting topics as the "connection between glaciation and submergence," "the formation of rock-basins," and the "origin of the geographical distribution of our faunas and floras." Confining my inquiry within the limits just specified, I shall begin by sketching broadly the general results obtained by glacialists in Europe, and thereafter I shall proceed to give an outline of the corresponding conclusions arrived at by American observers.

I.

_The Extent of Glaciation in Europe._

To what extent, then, let us ask, has Europe been glaciated? What areas have been covered with perennial snow and ice? Owing to the fulness and clearness of the evidence, we are able to give a very definite answer to this question. It is hardly too much to say that we are as well acquainted with the distribution of glacier-ice in Europe during the Ice Age as we are with that of existing snow-fields and glaciers.

The nature of the evidence upon which our knowledge is based is doubtless familiar to many whom I have the pleasure of now addressing, but for the sake of those who have not such familiarity with the subject I may be allowed to indicate very briefly its general character. A rock-surface over which ice has flowed for any considerable time exhibits either an abraded, worn, and smoothed appearance, or the rocks are disrupted and broken, and larger or smaller fragments are found to have been removed and carried forward in the direction followed by the ice. Now, ice-worn and shattered rock-surfaces of this description, such as can be seen underneath existing glaciers, occur more or less abundantly over vast regions in Europe. They are met with from the North Cape south as far as Leipzig, and from the Outer Hebrides east to the valley of the Petchora and the foot-slopes of the Ural Mountains. Nor are they confined to northern Europe. They appear again and again in France and Spain and Italy, and in the low-grounds of middle Europe, where they occupy positions now far removed from the influence of glacial action. Such ice-worn and disrupted rock-surfaces not only prove that glacier-ice formerly covered large portions of our Continent, but they also indicate for us the directions in which that enveloping ice moved. The smoother surfaces in question are very frequently marked with coarse and fine parallel scratches and grooves of precisely the same nature and origin as the scratches and grooves which characterise the rocky bed of a modern glacier. And these markings, having been produced by the sand, grit, and stones which are pushed and dragged over the rocks by flowing ice, necessarily discover for us the path of glacial movement. But all rocks subjected to glacial action are not necessarily smoothed and polished. Sometimes, owing to structural peculiarities, and for various other reasons, rocks cannot resist the pressure of the ice, but are crushed and broken, and the resulting fragments are rolled and dragged forward in the direction of ice-flow. In this manner the path of a glacier becomes strewed with débris which has from time to time been forced from its rocky bed. There is really no mystery, therefore in tracking the spoor of extinct glaciers; for we have two sets of facts to aid us, either of which might suffice to indicate the extent and direction of glaciation. Consider, however, for a moment, what one observes in connection with rock-striation. We have, in the first place, the rounding and smoothing, and the parallel ruts and striæ. Not only so, but we frequently find that one side of prominent projecting knolls and hills is more highly worn and abraded than the other. Often, indeed, one side may show no trace whatsoever of abrasion. Here, again, we have clear evidence of the direction of ice-flow. Who can doubt that the worn and abraded rocks look towards the point whence the ice came, and that the non-glaciated rocks in the rear have been sheltered by the rocks in front? It is for this reason that in the mountainous regions of northern Europe the striated and smoothed rock-surfaces invariably look up the valleys, while the broken and unworn rock-ledges face in the opposite direction.

Once more, note the manner in which the sub-glacial rock-rubbish, consisting of clay, sand, grit, stones, and boulders, has been amassed. In places where the ice must have moved more or less rapidly, as on considerable slopes, no accumulation took place, while in the rear of projecting crags and knobs of rock, sub-glacial materials often gathered deeply. Again, over low-lying tracts, where the motion of the ice would necessarily be retarded, clay, sand, and stones tended to collect. And this particularly appears to have been the case in those regions where the slow-creeping and gradually thinning ice-sheet approached its terminal line. Hence it is that we encounter such thick and wide-spread sheets of sub-glacial detritus upon the undulating low-grounds and plains of southern Sweden, Denmark, Schleswig-Holstein, Holland, northern Germany, Poland, and Russia.

The sub-glacial débris to which I specially refer is known as _Till_ or _Boulder-clay_ in this country, as _Krosstenslera_ in Sweden, as _Geschiebelehm_ or _Geschiebemergel_ in Germany, and as _Grundmoräne_ or _Moraine profonde_ in Switzerland. Its general characters are too well known to require more than the briefest summary. In general this peculiar accumulation is an unstratified clay, containing, scattered higgledy-piggledy through it, stones and boulders of all shapes and sizes. Many of these rock-fragments are smoothed and striated, and even the smallest particles, when viewed under the microscope, often show delicate scratches. Frequently, too, the clay is excessively hard and tough, and in many places it shows a kind of pseudo-lamination, which is generally more or less crumpled, and often highly involved. These appearances prove that the clay has not only been subjected to intense pressure, but has actually been rolled over upon itself. I need only refer to the plentiful occurrence of "slickensides" in such clays--the joints by which the clay is often traversed showing such polishing clearly on their faces. These, and many other facts which time forbids me to mention, have received an explanation which has now been generally adopted by European glacialists. The boulder-clay or till is considered by them to represent the ground- or bottom-moraine of glacier-ice. There used to be a notion prevalent amongst geologists in our country that this clay was almost peculiar to these islands. It occurs, however, in most countries of Europe. Vast regions in the north are more or less continuously covered by it, and we meet with it abundantly also upon the low-grounds of Switzerland, from which it may be followed far down the great valley of the Rhone into the sunny plains of France. The lower valleys of the Pyrenees and other Spanish ranges show it well, and it is conspicuous likewise in northern Italy, especially over the low tracts at the mouths of the great lake-valleys. In all those places one can see boulder-clay of as pronounced a character as any to be met with in Scotland.

Danish, Dutch, German, and Russian geologists have of late years devoted much attention to the study of this clay, which is so remarkably developed in their respective countries. It has been long well known that a large proportion of the stones and boulders contained in the till are of northern derivation, but it is only of recent years that we have ascertained the particular routes by which those wanderers or erratics have travelled. The rock-fragments in question have been tracked back, as it were, to their parent masses, and thus, partly in this way, and partly by the evidence of ice-worn surfaces, we have been enabled to follow the spoor of the great northern ice-sheet in a most satisfactory manner. Let one or two examples suffice. Boulders derived from Lapland and Finland occur in the till at St. Petersburg, and have been traced south-east to Moscow. Again, fragments carried from Gottland, in the Baltic, are met with in the boulder-clay of east Prussia, and have been followed south to beyond Berlin. In like manner boulders of well-known Scanian rocks appear in the boulder-clay of Leipzig. So also Swedish and Norwegian rock-fragments are seen in the boulder-clay of Denmark, Hanover, and Holland.

Very wide areas in northern Germany are covered with an almost continuous sheet of glacial detritus, so that it is only occasionally that the underlying rocks crop out at the surface. Striated rock-surfaces are therefore by no means so commonly exposed as in regions like the Lowlands of Scotland. They are not wanting, however, and their evidence is very striking. Thus, in the neighbourhood of Leipzig and Dresden, we find glacial striæ impressed upon certain highly-abraded and ice-worn hillocks of porphyry, the striæ being the work of ice which flowed into Saxony from the north. Similar striæ;, having a general southerly trend, occur at Rüdersdorf, near Berlin, at Gommern, near Magdeburg, at Velpke in Brunswick, at Osnabrück in Hanover, and at other places. Again, we encounter remarkable evidence of the powerful pressure exerted by the ice in the displacement and removal of huge blocks of strata. In Saxony, for example, the Tertiary strata are turned up, pushed out of place, and involved in boulder-clay to such an extent that the brown coals have often been mined for in this strange position. Witness also the extensive displacements and dislocations of the Cretaceous formation in the Danish islands of the Baltic. So great are the contortions and displacements of the Chalk in Moen, that these disturbances were formerly attributed to subterranean action. Along the north-east coast of that island, cliffs 400 feet in height exhibit the Cretaceous beds thrown upon end, twisted, bent, and even inverted, boulder-clay being squeezed into and between the disjointed and ruptured rock-masses.

From a study of these and similar phenomena, it has been demonstrated that during the climax of the Ice Age a very large part of northern Europe was buried under a thick covering of glacier-ice. And it has been conclusively shown that this ice-sheet streamed outwards in all directions from the high-grounds of Scandinavia, for which reason it is often spoken of as the Scandinavian ice-sheet. But as it was fed, not from the snow-fields of Scandinavia alone, but from the precipitation of snow over its whole surface, it is better, I think, to speak of it as the northern ice-sheet. In the extreme north of Scandinavia the ice flowed northward into the Arctic Ocean, while south of the dominant watershed of Lapland and Sweden its course in those high latitudes was east and south-east. It filled up the depressions of the White Sea, the Gulf of Bothnia, and the Baltic, extending east to the valley of the Petchora and the base of the Ural Mountains, and south-east to Kazan, some 200 miles east of Nijnii-Novgorod. From this point its terminal front trended a little west of south, until it reached the fiftieth parallel of latitude. Undulating a few miles south and north of this parallel, it swept directly west through Russia into Galicia, till it touched the foot-hills of the Carpathian range. After this we follow it along the northern base of the Riesen Gebirge, the Erz Gebirge, and the Harz, and thence westward through Hanover, and into the Low Countries, as far south at least as the mouth of the Rhine. Throughout the vast regions lying west and north of this terminal line, the track followed by the ice has been well ascertained. It was east and south-east in Russia, southerly in east Prussia, south-westerly in Denmark, Hanover, and Holland.

The action of a mass of glacier-ice, reaching a thickness of several thousand feet, must necessarily have resulted in extensive erosion of the rocks over which it passed. Everywhere, therefore, throughout the vast area just indicated, we meet with evidence of severe erosion. But, as one should expect, such erosion is most marked in the hilly regions--in those areas where steep slopes induced more rapid motion of the ice, and where projecting crags and hills opposed the advance of the eroding agent. All such prominent obstructions were energetically assailed--abraded, rounded, worn, and smoothed, or crushed, shattered, dislocated, and displaced. The high-grounds of Scandinavia and Finland, formed for the most part of tough, crystalline rocks, or of more or less durable strata, show everywhere _roches moutonnées_--smoothed and rounded rocks--while innumerable rock-basins have been scooped out in front of prominent crags and hills. In Denmark and other countries, where less durable rocks prevail, the strata have often been broken and disrupted, and pushed out of place. But as regions formed of such rocks are generally gently-undulating, and seldom show abrupt crags and hills, they oppose few obstructions to the advance of an ice-sheet. When the northern ice-sheet flowed into Russia and Germany, it crept over a low-lying and, for the most part, gently-undulating surface; and although here and there the form of the ground favoured glacial erosion and disruption, and extensive displacements of rock-masses took place, yet, upon the whole the low-lying regions referred to became areas of accumulation. The sub-glacial detritus--ground out or wrenched away from the rough Scandinavian plateau and the uplands of Finland--was dragged on underneath the ice, and spread over the great plains lying to the south-east and south, as the gradually attenuated ice-sheet crawled to its terminal line. My friend Dr. Amund Helland, the well-known Norwegian geologist, has made an estimate of the amount of rock-débris derived from Scandinavia and Finland which lies scattered over the low-grounds of northern Europe. According to him, the area in Denmark, Holland, Germany, and Russia (exclusive of Finland), over which northern detritus is scattered, contains about 2,100,000 square kilometres, and the average thickness of the deposits is about 150 feet, of which, however, only two-thirds, or 100 feet, are of northern origin, the remaining third consisting of local materials. Taking, then, 100 feet as fairly representing the average thickness of the rock-rubbish derived from Finland and Scandinavia, the area of which is given as 800,000 square kilometres, there is enough of this material to raise the general surface of those lands by 255 feet. The same amount of material would suffice to fill up all the numerous lakes of Finland and Sweden sixteen or seventeen times over. Or, if tumbled into the Baltic, it would fill the basin of that sea one and a half times. In short, enough northern rock-débris lies upon the low-grounds of northern Europe, which, were it restored to the countries from which it has been taken, would obliterate all the lake-hollows of Finland and Sweden, raise the level of those lands by 80 feet, and fill up the entire basin of the Baltic, with all its bays. And yet this estimate leaves out of account all the material which the ice-sheet carried away from Norway and the British Islands.

Of the glaciation of our own land I need say very little. The configuration of our country necessarily made it a centre of dispersion during the Ice Age, and the ice which covered Ireland, Scotland, and the major portion of England radiated outwards from the dominant elevations of the land. But as the ice creeping outwards from those centres became confluent, the directions which it followed were often considerably modified, especially upon the low-grounds. We know that the British ice-sheet not only covered the land up to near the tops of our higher mountains, but filled up all our seas and extended into the Atlantic beyond the coasts of Ireland and the Outer Hebrides--these latter islands having been glaciated from the east by the ice that flowed outwards from the mainland. Another point upon which we are now well assured is the fact that the British and Scandinavian ice-sheets coalesced, so that the basin of the North Sea completely brimmed over with glacier-ice.

Finally, then, in contemplating the physical conditions that obtained in northern Europe at the climax of the Ice Age, we have to picture to ourselves the almost total obliteration under a vast ice-sheet of all the land-features of the British Islands, Scandinavia, and Finland, and the adjacent low-lying tracts of Denmark, Holland, Germany, Poland, and Russia. If at that distant date a prehistoric man could have stood on the summit of Snaehatten, he would have seen an apparently interminable plain of snow and ice, bounded only by the visible horizon. Could he have followed the plain southwards in hopes of escaping from it, he would have descended its gently-sloping surface by imperceptible gradations for a distance of 700 miles, before he reached its termination at the foot of the mountains of middle Germany. Or, could he have set out upon an easterly course, he would have crossed the Gulf of Bothnia, buried several thousand feet beneath him, and touched the foot-slopes of the Ural Mountains before he gained the terminal front of the ice-cap, a distance of 1600 miles. On the other hand, had he walked south-west in the direction of Ireland, he would have traversed the area of the North Sea at a height of several thousand feet above its bed, and, crossing the British area, would only have reached the ice-front at a point some 50 miles beyond the coast of Ireland. Here he would have seen the ice-sheet presenting a steep face to the assaults of the Atlantic, and breaking away in massive tabular bergs, like those which are calved by the ice-cap of the Antarctic regions.

I must now pass rapidly in review the facts relating to the glaciation of the mountainous regions which lay outside of the area covered by the northern ice-sheet. The glaciers of the Alps of Switzerland, about which so much has been written, and the study of which first gave Venetz, Charpentier, and Agassiz the clue to the meaning of striated rocks, boulder-clay, and erratics, are, as is well known, the puny descendants of former gigantic ice-flows. At the culmination of the Ice Age all the mountain-valleys of Switzerland and northern Italy were choked with glaciers that streamed out upon the low-grounds. Along the northern slopes of the Alps, as in Bavaria and Würtemberg, these glaciers coalesced to form a considerable ice-sheet, and so likewise did the glaciers that descended from Switzerland, Savoy, and Dauphiny, into the great valley of the Rhone. Even in north Italy the same was the case with the glaciers that occupied the valleys in which now lie Lakes Orta, Maggiore, Varese, Lugano, and Como--the united ice-flows of those valleys forming a glacier which deployed upon the plains of the Po, with a frontage of not less than 40 miles.