CHAPTER XIII.

TENNESSEE TRAPPER'S METHODS.

Do you trap foxes? If you do I bet you have some favorite way, and too, doubtless in most respects it's different from my way of trapping them, as there seems to be almost as many methods as there are successful trappers; nor either is the same confined to the methods used, but to the kind of traps employed, baits, scents, etc., says B. P. Pickens.

The Water Set, the Sheep Path Methods, are national, and known to be O. K., though the former requires bait attractions, and lots of other preparations, while the latter with me has never necessarily required baits or scents to make it a good success.

I do not confine my fox trapping to any one method long, for I am always governed by the surroundings, and conditions, yet my traps are set and concealed the same way, no matter for what animals I intend to trap.

My traps set for skunk and rats are just as carefully set and concealed as though they were set for fox and coon.

My favorite is a Newhouse Fox Trap for every purpose, as it will hold.

My reasons for using nothing smaller than a No. 2 Fox Trap is that a fellow does not always know if a fox will happen about his skunk traps or a big coon about his rat traps, and since I have found Mr. Fox and Mr. Coon a few times in the toils I make every preparation for his reception.

I will endeavor to tell some of the things I do, which is a good way to take a fox. I commence early in the spring, if the ground is not ready to arrange for my fall and winter trapping, looking out for their signs, and continue to keep my eyes open all summer and around the pastures, in the fields, old roads, and in the woods, gullies and washouts. I arrange to trap them in stock paths by laying a limb or fence rail across these paths, while the use of stock all summer renders it old, and on either side of this path obstruction is just the place for a fox trap. I cut and wire my trap chain to the middle of a brush, one that a fox can drag some distance away, which leaves this same place a good risk for another catch, where if stapled to something he could not move he would render the place unfit for the rest of the season.

Conceal your trap by digging a hole on either side of the path obstruction the size of the trap to be used, setting trap always springs with path, have the hole deep enough so when the trap is well covered with leaves, then on the leaves a layer of dirt, it will just be level with the earth and look natural.

To use this same underground method in cold freezing weather, first bed the trap hole good with dry leaves, or grass, over springs and all, being sure to use dry flat leaves to lay over the pan and jaws, then cover over all with some of the remaining dirt before mentioned.

Be sure to hide chain and handle everything with gloves.

Now brush out your tracks, step over your trap and go on.

One way of trapping foxes may be done like this. Around the pastures and in the woods where stock make paths lay a fence rail, or its equivalent across these paths, and the use of stock during the summer months will render these prearranged obstructions worn and natural by November trapping, and on either side of such an obstruction is a splendid place to set your trap for the fox to step in, writes L. M. Pickens.

Paths, places under fences, little washouts, and old roads not much used are generally his favorite travels. See after his tracks in the dust, mud, or snow; notice how he steps over one of these obstructions that you arranged early in the summer, and other places, studying him, then set your trap this way, using every precaution to not change any of the surroundings.

Carry with you a little hard wood stick, ready sharpened, with which to dig a hole on either side of this obstruction that has been lying over the stock path just the size of your trap, and deep enough so your trap pan and jaws will be a little below the level of the surface. Now cover over springs good and all around the outside of jaws with some of this dirt you dug up; now you have the trap concealed all but its pan and inside of jaws; finish the set by laying some small flat leaves from jaws to pan, commencing and going all the way around jaws; after this is done pulverize some of the remaining dirt, and sprinkle it over these leaves, entirely covering them. Take a small twig and level over trap, finishing the job. It might help some to cut a part of a bird into fine pieces, dropping it and loose feathers over this kind of a set.

To fasten the trap is some of the job. Cut a bush with a lot of limbs to it, and wire your trap to the middle of same securely, but do not have the brush drag so heavily that he cannot run off with it; it is intended for him to go immediately after he is caught, for these reasons, he will soon hang up some distance away, and thus fastened, he is not stationed at this good place where another may be caught, besides his chances of pulling out of the trap is less than it is if he was stapled to something he could not move. The brush is a give and take game, see?

Be sure to cover chain of trap good, and have everything look as natural when you leave us when you came to set trap. Use No. 2 Newhouse, handling it and everything with gloves; always stand In one place; leave no paper or whittlings on the premises. I use this method just outlined. Try it boys.