Category: Travel Writing

Four Months Afoot in Spain

Not the least of the virtues of the private schools of New York City is the length of their summer vacations. It was an evening late in May that I mounted to my lodgings in Hartley Hall, rollicksome with the information that I should soon be free from professional duties a ful...

Chapters

10. CHAPTER X

A day or two later I was installed for a fortnight in a casa de huespedes in the calle San Bernardo. In such places as one plans to remain for any length of time there are few c...

5. CHAPTER V

Even though one deny the right of its inhabitants to pity the man who must live and die elsewhere, even he who finds it panting and simmering in the heat of summer, will still c...

12. CHAPTER XII

Nearest of all the Iberian peninsula to our own land, the ancient kingdom of Galicia is as well-nigh unknown to us as any section of Europe. As far back as mankind's memory carr...

1. CHAPTER I

Not the least of the virtues of the private schools of New York City is the length of their summer vacations. It was an evening late in May that I mounted to my lodgings in Hart...

2. CHAPTER II

Gibraltar rises early. Proof of the assertion may be lacking, but certainly not even a "Rock lizard" could recompose himself for another nap after the passing of the crashing mi...

13. CHAPTER XIII

My knapsack garnished, I turned my back on Oviedo early on Sunday morning. The train wound slowly away toward the lofty serrated range that shuts off the world on the south. As...

3. CHAPTER III

Ronda crouches on the bald summit of a rock so mighty that one can easily fancy it the broken base of some pillar that once upheld the sky. Nature seems here to have established...

11. CHAPTER XI

It was well along in the next afternoon that I descended at the station of Avila and climbed a long dusty mile into the city. A scent of the dim, half-forgotten past hovered ove...

15. CHAPTER XV

In reality almost as much as in fancy I had entered another world. It is chiefly in retrospect that a journey through Spain, as through Palestine, brings home to the traveler th...

6. CHAPTER VI

To the man who will travel cheaply, interlarding his walking trips with such journeys by train as may be necessary to cover the peninsula in one summer, Spain offers the advanta...

4. CHAPTER IV

Granada was sleeping a fitful Sunday siesta when I repacked my knapsack in the Casa Robledo. In the streets were only the fruit-sellers from the surrounding country, still faint...

9. CHAPTER IX

The people of Tembleque had been just certain enough that none but an arriero could follow the intricate route thither, and that no man could cover the distance on foot in one d...

7. CHAPTER VII

In the gloom of evening I espied on a dull, sterile hillside a vast rambling venta, as bare, slate-colored, and marked with time as the hills themselves. Here was exactly such a...

8. CHAPTER VIII

It was Sunday morning, the market day of Valdepenas, when I returned alone to stock my knapsack. The plaza that had been so deserted and peaceful the evening before was packed f...

14. CHAPTER XIV

There was an unwonted excitement in the air when I boarded the train next morning for the longest unbroken ride of my Spanish journey. Pernales, the anachronism, the twentieth-c...