CHAPTER XI

FLAT LATCH NEEDLE AUTOMATIC NARROWING MACHINE

THE flat latch needle automatic narrowing machine as built by Messrs. Claes & Flentje is shown in Fig. 73, and a piece of fabric from this machine narrowed down fourteen needles is shown in Fig. 74. This machine is quite complicated when compared with any that have been taken up before, but those who have studied what has gone before carefully, especially that part treating on fashioned garments and how they are made by hand, should have no trouble in understanding the principles and movements necessary to do this work automatically.

The machine shown is really four separate and complete units mounted upon one frame or stand and driven by one belt, with the automatic movements operated from one control. It is evident from this that the garments or parts of garments made on each one of these four units must be the same, or rather they must have the same number of rounds with the same number of needles narrowed down, but they may be made from different yarns both in kind and color.

There are four points that should be understood to begin with: First, the machine is operated by power. Second, the power is transmitted to the driving pulley on the machine at all times when the machine is being operated. Third, the knitting mechanism must be stopped while the narrowing mechanism is in operation. Fourth, the narrowing mechanism must be at rest during the time the knitting mechanism is in operation.

We will first show how it is arranged to automatically stop one part of the machine, say the knitting operation, and put the narrowing mechanism in work, and after this part has performed its functions or narrowed down one needle on each needle plate, front and back, how it is stopped until time to narrow again, and the knitting parts set in operation.

Fig. 75 is a view of the right end of the machine, and it is here that the driving mechanism is located, also the automatic controls. The number 1 indicates the belt and pulley which drive the machine. The pulley is mounted loose upon the shaft and operates the machine through a clutch which is thrown in or out, as the case may be, by the handles marked _x_ in Fig. 73. The number 13 (Fig. 75) indicates a plain balance wheel on the outside end of the shaft.

When the clutch is in, the driving wheel on which the belt 1 runs will of course turn the shaft 2, on the other end of which there is a small spur gear which drives the large gear 3. This large gear is automatically connected with, and disconnected from the crank wheel 5, which wheel drives the knitting mechanism through the connecting rod 6 and lever _y_, Fig. 73, whose fulcrum is at _s_, and is connected to an extension of the carriage at _r_. The lever _y_ comes up between two ways or slides, on which is mounted a crosshead at the end of this extension, and where the lever connects at _r_, to keep the extension in alignment with the carriages.

Referring to Fig. 75, when the machine is being operated the following parts are always in motion: The driving wheel 1 with the shaft 2, together with the small spur gear on the end of the shaft 2, which cannot be seen but drives the large gear 3, also the large gear 3 with the shaft upon which it is mounted, which may be seen running behind the vertical connecting straps toward the right of the illustration and terminates back of the large bevel gear 4. Upon this end of the shaft there is mounted a small bevel or pinion gear to drive the large bevel gear 4.

Now then let us understand that the crank wheel 5 operates the knitting mechanism of the machine, and the bevel gear 4, through a shaft which runs the entire length of the machine with a series of cams mounted on it, operates the narrowing mechanism. We have seen that the driving parts from the driving pulley 1 on the back of the machine, over to and including the large gear 3, and back to and including the small bevel gear which drives the large bevel gear 4 are in motion at all times while the machine is in operation. The gear 4 is engaged with the small gear only at the time the narrowing is done; while the crank wheel is connected with the large spur gear 3 and turning only while the knitting parts are in operation. The connection between the crank wheel 5 and the gear 3 is simply a key-like lever which may be disconnected by lifting out of place and connected again by dropping back, though there is only one place on the circumference of the wheel where it can connect the two together.

Control of Fashioning Mechanism

The method of starting and stopping the narrowing or fashioning mechanism is quite a novel and ingenious arrangement. To explain it we will refer to Fig. 81. The number 4 indicates the bevel gear shown at 4 in Fig. 75, and 4-_a_ is the small pinion a part of which may be seen in Fig. 75. The larger bevel gear 4 has a small space (three or four teeth) cut away so it acts somewhat on the principle of an intermittent gear. When the small pinion 4-_a_ comes to this spot the large gear 4 will of course stop. This gear is mounted on the shaft 9, which may be seen under the same designation in Figs. 79 and 80, which is a continuation of this shaft. It (the gear 4) is shown in Fig. 81 in the position where it would be at rest as the small pinion 4-_a_ would be turning free and clear on account of the teeth of the large gear being cut away at this point.

It will be noted that there is a pin extending from one side of the hub of the small pinion gear 4-_a_. On the back of gear 4 there is attached a box-like arrangement with the lever 4-_b_ passing through it, which is pivoted at _p_ and is held out in the position shown by a spring. Outside and near the outer end of this lever 4-_b_ is another L-shaped lever 4-_d_, which is pivoted at _m_ to the frame of the machine.

It is plain that when the lever 4-_b_ is moved in the path of the pin 4-_c_, which is turning at all times with the pinion 4-_a_, by the right-angled lever 4-_d_, the gear 4 will be moved forward far enough for the teeth of the pinion to engage with the teeth of the large gear. Consequently, the gear 4 would turn one complete revolution, or until the place which has the teeth cut out is again adjacent to the pinion, and it would stop at this point. This one revolution of the gear 4 completes the execution of one narrowing operation or the narrowing down of one needle on each needle plate.

Referring to Fig. 75, number 11 indicates the lever or slide which is the means provided to make the shift from fashioning to knitting, and vice versa. When this slide is at its furthermost position toward the back of the machine it is held there by a catch, and the knitting mechanism would be in operation while the fashioning mechanism would be at rest. But immediately the slide is released from the catch, which is done by a stud on the chain 12, a spring brings it forward and a release bar, by means of an inclined plane, is set to disconnect the large gear 3 (Fig. 75) from the crank wheel 5, when it gets to the point where the carriages are at the extreme right end of the needle plates as shown in Figs. 77 and 78. At the same time it raises up the right-angled lever 4-_d_ (Fig. 81) which throws in the lever 4-_b_, and this of course starts the fashioning mechanism to work. Just as the gear 4 with the cam shaft 9 completes its one revolution the slide is set back again, which permits the gear 3 to connect with the crank shaft and the gear 4 stops as the cut out teeth come opposite the small pinion.

The several vertical straps which may be seen at or near the center of Fig. 75 are the mediums through which the automatic changes are made by studs coming under and raising them. These studs are attached in their several positions on the chain 12. We will not go into these further, for while the construction is somewhat different from what we have had, the principle is the same. As the studs on the chain come under the straps, they raise them up and this moves a stop in the path of the different slides which changes the locks, yarn carriers, etc.

The Actual Narrowing Operation

It will be remembered that in narrowing by hand there were three lines of movement of the decker or narrowing comb. But lines of movement should not be confused with direction of movement. An object may be moved in one line, but if moved back and forth on that line it would move in two directions.

The three lines of movement are as follows: First, it is moved in a line parallel with an extension of the line of a needle lengthwise, or same as the arrows 1 and 2 in Fig. 82. We would move it on this line, and in the direction of arrow 1 to bring the openings in the point of the decker directly over or above the hooks of the needles. Second, it would be moved up and down at right angles to its first movement, and in the direction indicated by arrow 4 to place the openings in the decker points on the hooks of the needles. With the hooks of the needles caught in these openings the decker would move again on its first line, and in the direction indicated by arrow 2 to the point where the latches are above the loops. Then the deckers push the needles down on the same line, but in the direction indicated by arrow 1 to the point where the loops on the needles will close the latches and drop over the hooks on to the decker points. Then the points raise up with the loops on them, on the second line again, but in the direction indicated by arrow 3, to clear the needle hooks.

Now we have the third line of movement, which is in toward the other end of the needle plate, as indicated by arrow 5, the distance of one needle space carrying the loops on the decker points. Then they move down on the second line in the direction indicated by arrow 4, catch the needle hooks in the openings of the decker points, draw back on first line, direction of arrow 2 to the point where the loops will slip off the decker points on to the needles again. The decker then raises up and retires to its point of rest. This will leave one empty needle at the end, which is drawn down out of working position by means which will be explained later.

The knitting mechanism is now started in operation, and after putting on the proper number of rounds it stops and the narrowing proceeds as before. If this explanation of the movements of the decker has been followed carefully by the reader, he will see that there are but three lines of movement in the whole narrowing operation proper, though on two of these lines the movement is in opposite directions at different times. To do this automatically only three sources must be provided for the several movements, as the opposite direction of movements on the same lines come as a matter of course, otherwise there could be but one movement in any direction on one line.

The source of all of these movements is the shaft upon which the bevel gear (Figs. 75 and 81) is mounted and is designated by the number 9 in Figs. 75, 79 and 80. It may be plainly seen in the illustrations with its irregular surfaced cams which perform this work.

Figs. 79 and 80 are views of the back of the machine, both showing the same parts, but Fig. 79 is a view looking from the right end, or end upon which the driving mechanism is mounted, while Fig. 80 is a view from the other or left end looking toward the driving wheel.

Mounting of the Deckers

We will take up the manner of mounting the deckers and the auxiliary parts through the medium of which the narrowing is done. Referring to Fig. 77, the decker points may be seen at _a_, _a_, mounted in a clamp in much the same manner as the hand deckers were mounted. The decker points, however, are somewhat different from those used in the hand decker, these latter being solid, either flat or round, while those on the automatic machine are half-round or U-shaped, as shown in Fig. 76, to facilitate placing them on the hooks of the needles.

Before proceeding any further, it should be understood that the narrowing is done on both sets of needles, front and back, by two separate deckers, therefore most of the parts connected with this operation that are shown and described, except the cam shaft 9 and its appurtenances, are in duplicate on front and back of the machine. The decker point clamp is a part of a yoke which is clamped on the two rods _b_ and _c_ (Fig. 77) tight enough to permit no play, yet not so tight but that it will slide freely endwise on the two rods. There are four of these on each side, front and back, or two for each independent pair of plates and locks. The rods _b_ and _c_ run the whole length of the machine and have no end movement, but _b_ is free to move up and down vertically, while _c_ acts simply as a rocker shaft or pivot upon which to swing the rod _b_, together with the clamp and decker _a_. The rod _c_ is mounted through and near the end of the arm _d_, which in its turn is mounted or pivoted on the rocker shaft 13, Fig. 78, where the whole arm may be noted. In Fig. 73 the whole five arms that are on the front of the machine may be seen. These arms are connected with a lever beneath the needle plates and frame by two flexible straps shown at _f_, Fig. 77. The lever to which the other end of these straps are attached may be seen at 1, Fig. 80, also the extension of the arm _d_, at _d_-1. The spring which is attached to this extension with the other end attached to a like extension on the opposite arm _d_, is shown at _d_-2. This spring provides the energy to return the arms to, and hold them in the position shown in Fig. 77, after the narrowing operation is completed.

To get the endwise movement of the decker, or the movement we have designated as 1 and 2 in Fig. 82, we will refer again to Fig. 80 and the lever 1. This lever is pivoted on the shaft 12 and passes under the shaft 9. At the point where it passes under to one side of the irregular cam _d_-3 there is a stud with a roller projecting from one side which comes under and in contact with the cam _d_-3. We have seen that there is always an upward pull on this lever 1 through the springs _d_-2, and the extension _d_-1, the arm proper _d_, and the straps _f_ (Fig. 77), back down through the center of the machine to the inner end of lever 1, Fig. 80.

Now it follows, that if the periphery of this cam _d_-3 is irregular, and the spring _d_-2 always holds the pin with the roller on the side of lever 1, in close contact with the outside of this cam, then by having the periphery vary, or at different distances from the center at different points, the deckers may be moved to any point or held at any point in a line lengthwise with the decker points by making the irregularities at the proper place and at the proper distance from the center.

The explanation of this movement applies to all of the automatic movements for narrowing or fashioning on this machine. Inasmuch as all these irregular cams for the different movements are mounted on this same shaft 9, after once being set right they must always be in synchronism unless the setting is disturbed by accident. We have seen how the first movement is secured to bring the openings in the decker points down to a point directly over the needle hooks. We have assumed that they were in a line sidewise to begin with. Now we will see how the second movement, or bringing the deckers down on to the hooks of the needles after being moved directly over them, and lifting them off again, is accomplished.

Second and Third Movements

Referring to Fig. 77, it has been explained how the decker points with their clamp _a_ and yoke are mounted on the rods _b_ and _c_ in such a manner that they will swing freely with the rod _c_ acting as a pivot. Referring to Fig. 78, we find that the rods _c_ and _b_ have another yoke at _i_, which is attached securely to these rods, with a short extension toward the outside of the machine on which to attach the connection rod _h_.

If we now turn to Fig. 79, we will find that the connection rod _h_ comes down and is attached at the other end to a lever at _j_. While, as the reader may surmise, the connection rod _h_, Fig. 78, is on the front of the machine, and the rod _h_, Fig. 79, is on the back, the connections and manner of moving are the same. The lever to which this connection rod _h_ (Fig. 79) is attached at _j_ is mounted on the shaft 13, so as to swing up and down freely, and has an extension on the other side of the shaft from which there is another rod connecting it with the inside end of lever 2.

This lever has the proper movements imparted to it through the pin and roller, which may be plainly seen, resting on the periphery of an irregular cam, just the same as has been explained for lever 1 for the first movement, except that the pin and roller rest on the top of the cam in this instance, while in the former case the pin and roller were held firmly up against the bottom of the cam by a coil spring.

The third movement to carry the loops in toward the center one needle, designated in Fig. 82 as 5, is a straight line movement and always in one direction. But the movement as to distance must be more exact than either of the others, therefore while the source of the movement is the same as the others, an irregular cam on the cam shaft 9, the transmission of it to the deckers is accomplished in an entirely different manner.

Fine Adjustment Necessary

We will refer again to Fig. 77, where we will find two long flat steel straps, one on each side of the machine, marked _e_ and _e_. It will be noted that these straps are attached securely to the yokes that carry the deckers, as well as to the crossheads or bridges marked _l_ and _m_. Reaching across from one to the other and attached to these bridges is a yoke the two arms of which are indicated by _k_ and _k_. These two arms come together at the center in a hub through which runs the worm or screw indicated by _g_.

On the outer end of this worm is a small spur gear which meshes into the gear _h_. Back of the gear _h_ is a ratchet gear, and both are rigidly attached to the small shaft and turn together. Now it is quite evident that if the ratchet and gear marked _h_ are turned in the right direction, which would be the top toward the right, this would turn the worm, which would move the yoke _k_ and _k_, together with the bridges _l_ and _m_, also the straps _e_ and _e_, and they, of course, would move the deckers. The principle of the worm or screw used to make this movement permits an almost micrometer adjustment of the distance moved.

To find the method used to turn the ratchet gear and spur gear _h_, we will refer again to Fig. 75, where the ratchet gear is marked _y_ and its pawl _n_. This will hardly need an explanation, as the method of working may be plainly seen by following out the pawl lever to the connection rod _x_, and down to the lever 8, which is raised the proper distance at just the proper time by the cam directly under it, and in this manner turns the ratchet.

In narrowing, when it comes to the point where the decker is to be placed on the needle hooks, it is imperative that the latches of those needles on which the transferring is to be done are all open, otherwise the decker will not catch the hook. Also after narrowing down one needle, the empty needle must be drawn down out of the operating position. The manner of doing this is as follows: The needles used in this machine have an extension of the shank, and on the lower end of this there is another butt as shown at _b_, Fig. 76. This extra butt is there solely for the manipulation of the needles for this purpose. Just before the decker is ready to drop on to the needle hooks, the needles are pushed up part way to meet it by the hoe-shaped part designated by the letter _o_ in Fig. 78. This hoe is attached to the block _p_, which in its turn is attached to the long steel strap 17, then the whole is mounted on a slide directly beneath the strap upon which it may slide lengthwise of the machine.

The slide is attached to the connecting strap 19, the other end of which is attached to the lever 20, therefore the hoe _o_ and the block _p_ may be moved lengthwise of the machine by the strap 17, and the whole, including the slide beneath and the connecting strap 19, may be moved up and down on a line with the movement of the needles by swinging the lever 20, which is pivoted on the rod 18. As the deckers make their first movement down to align the openings over the needle hooks, the hoe _o_ is moved upward by the lever 20, and, inasmuch as it is directly under and contiguous to the lower butts of the needles, it will push those needles up ahead of it to the point where the loops will open and lie across the latches, thus leaving the needle hooks free to receive the deckers. The hoe then retires while the deckers push the needles down, but is used a number of times in the same manner to assist the deckers in the manipulation of the needles during the narrowing operation. In the meantime it is moved over toward the center of the machine at the same time the deckers are, as it also is connected with the yoke _k_ and _k_, Fig. 77.

As the deckers are finishing their part of the work, the hoe is moved upward again and a hooked finger, which lies just at the right and is almost wholly concealed by the hoe, hooks over the empty needle butt and draws the needle down out of the operating position as the hoe retires to the position shown.

The fabric photograph shown in Fig. 74 is part of a storm collar made for a Shaker sweater. The wide part is that part of the collar that covers from the top of the shoulder down to where the narrowing stops at the center of the breast. The narrow strip is a part of the border on the front opening upon which is placed the buttons and button-holes. It is narrowed down five needles, with four rounds between in the first part, while the last part has nine narrowings with one round between.

On this machine, while the narrowing is all automatic, after each garment or part is finished it is necessary to reset the machine by hand, that is, push up those needles that have been narrowed down, move the deckers and hoe back to the starting point by turning the crank _i_, Fig. 77, then move the carriages across and put in either a comb, or a hook made specially for this purpose, to hold down the stitches on the needles just pushed up into working position. Letter _j_ indicates the yarn leading into the yarn carrier. The numbers 15 in Figs. 79 and 80 indicate the board or stand upon which the yarn is placed for use in the machine.