iii. By securing the bridoon rein to the girth on the near

side; this is done by taking the bridoon reins over in the usual way and passing them under the girth from front to rear. They should then be drawn sufficiently tight to bend the horse’s head to the left and fastened by a single hitch, but without drawing the slip end through. (_See_ Fig. 9.) When mounting in haste the rider can easily loosen the slip knot after mounting, and then pull the reins clear and pass them over the horse’s head.

3. _Coupling horses._--Horses can be securely coupled by turning them head to tail and tying each with the bridoon rein to the off back-strap or arch of the saddle of the other, taking care that the reins, when tied, are not more than 6 to 8 inches long. (_See_ Fig. 10.)

With three horses one can be tied to the head collar of either of the two horses so coupled. Four horses are secured by tying a horse to each of the two originally coupled. No horse should have more than 1 foot length of rein, and the best knot to be used is a slip knot round the rein itself.

4. _Linking horses._--The head ropes are brought over the horses’ heads clear of the reins, without unfastening the coil or knot. Each man hands his rope to the man on his right, who passes it through the upper ring of his own horse’s head collar, and ties it with two half-hitches.

=50.= _Riding with the sword._

-----------------+------------------------------------------------- 1. _To draw_ | Pass the right hand smartly across the _swords._ |body, over the bridle arm, draw out the blade |the sword knot on the wrist, give it two turns DRAW--SWORDS. |inward to secure it, and then grasp the handle ONE. |with the right arm close to the body, shoulders |square to the front. +------------------------------------------------- TWO. | With an extended arm draw the sword |slowly from the scabbard, in the rear of the |left shoulder, and bring it smartly to the |“_Recover_,” that is, with the bar of the hilt in |line with the bottom of the chin, blade |perpendicular, edge to the left, elbow close to |the body. +------------------------------------------------- THREE. | Lower the sword smartly to the “_Carry_,” |that is, with the top of the guard resting on |the top of the hand, blade perpendicular, edge |to the front, the first and second fingers |gripping the handle under the resistance |piece, the little finger behind the handle to |steady it, the wrist resting on the leg and the |pommel pressed against the side of it, upper |part of the arm close to the body, and the |elbow lightly touching the hip. -----------------+------------------------------------------------- _To slope_ | Bring the lower part of the arm at right _swords._ |angles to the upper, hand in front of the |elbow, relax the grasp of the second and third SLOPE--SWORDS. |fingers, and allow the sword to fall lightly on |the shoulder, midway between the neck and |point of the shoulder, the top of the hilt resting |on the top of the hand, the little finger |still in rear of the hilt. -----------------+------------------------------------------ 3. _To sit at_ | Keeping the sword at the slope, place the _ease._ |hands on the front part of the saddle, with the |right hand over the left. SIT AT EASE. | -----------------+------------------------------------------ 4. _To come_ | _to position_ | _of attention._ | Come smartly to the position of “_Slope |swords_.” ATTENTION. | -----------------+------------------------------------------ 5. _To carry_ | Resume the grasp of the second and third _swords._ |fingers and bring the blade perpendicular, |the hilt resting on the thigh, as in the third |motion of drawing swords. CARRY--SWORDS. | -----------------+------------------------------------------ 6. _To return_ | Carry the hilt smartly to the hollow of the _swords._ |left shoulder, blade perpendicular, edge to |the left, elbow level with the shoulder; then |by a quick turn of the wrist drop the point RETURN--SWORDS. |in rear of the left shoulder slowly into the |scabbard, and resume the position at the end ONE. |of the first motion in “_Draw swords_,” |shoulders being kept square to the front |throughout this motion. +----------------------------------------------- TWO. | Push the sword lightly into the scabbard, |release the hand from the sword knot by giving |it two turns outwards, the right hand remaining |across the body in line with the elbow, |fingers extended and close together, back of |the hand up. +----------------------------------------------- THREE. |Drop the right hand smartly to the side. ------------------------+------------------------------------------

7. When “_Draw swords_” is ordered at the walk, the men after drawing will remain at the “_Carry_” until ordered to “_Slope_”; but if “_Draw swords_” is ordered at the trot or gallop, the men will come to the “_Slope_” after drawing.

8. _Proving._--In proving with a drawn sword, the sword is brought to the “_Carry_,” and again sloped on the command “AS YOU WERE.”

9. _Paying compliments with drawn sword._--An officer or soldier should “_Carry_” his sword and turn his head and eyes in the direction in which the compliment is to be paid.

10. _Officers’ salute._--i. The officers’ salute in marching past commences ten yards from the reviewing officer, the sword being at the “_Carry_.”

First motion: Carry the sword direct to the right to the full extent of the arm, hand as high as the shoulder, back of the hand to the rear, blade perpendicular.

Second motion: Bring the sword by a circular motion to the “_Recover_,” keeping the elbow as high as the shoulder.

Third motion: Still keeping the elbow the height of the shoulder, bring the hilt to the right shoulder; during this motion let the finger nails come in line with the edge of the sword.

Fourth motion: Lower the sword to the front to the full extent of the arm, blade 3 inches below the knee, edge to the left, thumb extended in the direction of the point, hand directly under the shoulder. There should be no pause between these motions, but all should be combined in one graceful movement.

The head is slightly turned towards the reviewing officer whilst passing him.

After passing the reviewing officer ten yards, the sword is brought to the “_Recover_” carrying it well to the front, and to the “_Carry_” in two deliberate movements.

ii. _The officers’ salute at the halt._--The sword being at the “_Carry_.” First motion: Bring the sword to the “_Recover_,” but with the thumb pointing upwards.

Second motion: As described in fourth motion of the salute when marching past.

Third motion: Bring the sword to the “_Recover_.”

Fourth motion: Bring the sword to the “_Carry_.”

=51.= _Riding with the rifle._

----------------+---------------------------------------------- 1. _To mount._ | Take hold of the barrel of the rifle with the |left hand, about 3 inches below the muzzle, |butt downwards, and prepare to mount, but PREPARE TO |with the rifle held in the left hand on the MOUNT. |off side of the horse. +---------------------------------------------- MOUNT. | Mount as usual, raise the rifle with the left |hand, seize it with the right hand in front of |the magazine, and place it in the bucket. ----------------+---------------------------------------------- 2. _To | dismount._ | | PREPARE TO | Seize the rifle with the right hand at the DISMOUNT. |small of the butt. +-------------------------------------------------- TWO. | Draw the rifle out of the bucket far enough |to allow the hand to re-grasp it just in front |of the magazine; raise it so as to clear the |front of the saddle. +-------------------------------------------------- THREE. | Lower the butt under the bridle hand, and |hold the barrel with the left hand about |3 inches below the muzzle. +-------------------------------------------------- FOUR. | Place the right hand in front of the saddle, |and quit the right stirrup. On the command |“DISMOUNT,” dismount as usual, bringing the |rifle to the position of the “_Order_” in the left |hand, and hold the bridle with the right hand. | |If required for dismounted service, as soon |as the horse is given up, the rifle is passed |from the left hand to the right. ----------------+--------------------------------------------- 3. _The_ | The rifle is held with the right hand in front _advance._ |of the magazine resting on the upper part of |the right thigh, thumb and fingers round the |rifle, muzzle pointing to the left front and |just clear of the horse’s near ear, trigger guard |to the front. ----------------+------------------------------------------------- 4. _To draw | _arms._ | | DRAW--ARMS. | Grasp the rifle at the small of the butt. ----------------+------------------------------------------------- TWO. | Draw the rifle out of the bucket far enough |to allow the hand to re-grasp it just in front |of the magazine. ----------------+------------------------------------------------- THREE. | Retaining the same grasp, bring the rifle to |the “_Advance_.” ----------------+------------------------------------------------- 5. _To carry_ | From the “_Advance_.”--Without moving the _arms._ |right hand from its grasp of the rifle, place, |the butt on the upper part of the right thigh, CARRY--ARMS. |with the right eye, trigger guard to the left, |back of the hand down, arm slightly bent, |elbow close to the side. ----------------+-------------------------------------------------- 6. _To return_ | This is done in one motion as follows:--Raise _arms._ |the butt of the rifle and lower the muzzle |into the mouth of the bucket, pressing the RETURN--ARMS. |rifle well home with the right hand, trigger |guard to the rear, taking care that the bolt lever |does not catch on the edge of the bucket. ----------------+--------------------------------------------------

=52.= _Revolver shooting._

1. Revolver shooting is to be practised mounted by all ranks armed with that weapon.

2. At least 10 days’ preliminary instruction, including snapping, should be given immediately before firing the first year’s course, while 5 days’ practice will generally be advisable before subsequent courses. This preliminary instruction is important, in order to inculcate correct methods and to train the eye and muscles of the hand, wrist and arm.

3. The allowance of blank ammunition is required to accustom men to the shock of discharge and horses to the noise. Firing should be carried out first at a walk and finally at a canter.

4. When loaded the revolvers should be carried muzzle down and the finger away from the trigger.

5. To take aim the revolver should be raised on to the mark, keeping the wrist stiff with the forearm, wrist and barrel in the same vertical plane, or it may be brought direct into the alignment. The arm may be kept straight or slightly bent.

Mounted men should learn to shoot, without taking aim along the sights, at the centre of the body of the target. With a little practice they should learn to keep their eyes on the object and, as it were, “throw the bullet” at it.

6. Practice with ball ammunition should be divided into two parts, dismounted and mounted. The latter should not be carried out until a man thoroughly understands the handling of the weapon.

DRIVING.

=53.= _General principles._

1. All officers, non-commissioned officers, and drivers must possess a thorough knowledge of the principles of driving and of fitting harness.

2. Even and steady draught is a matter of paramount importance; the respective weights behind teams are calculated on the assumption that every horse will do his fair share of work; this is impossible unless the driving is of a high order. If the driving is not good, neither quick manœuvre, long marches, nor efficient transport serviceman be assured.

3. When draught is even and steady every trace in the team is taut, and the horses’ heads are facing straight to the front. If, for example, an off horse’s head is pulled inwards, his draught power is reduced and he is liable to become collar galled.

4. The lead driver is responsible for direction, distance, and pace; it is the duty of the centre and wheel drivers to keep the traces taut and cover him.

5. Temperament should be the first consideration in teaming horses. A slug should therefore, if possible, not be included in a team of very willing horses.

6. The position of the horses should frequently be changed; a hand horse, for example, loses his back muscles if he is never ridden, and is also apt to acquire the habit of leaning on the off side of the bit.

=54.= _Fitting harness._

1. The _saddle_, _saddle blanket_, _girth_, _surcingle_, _bit_, _curb_, _chain_, _head rope_, _nose band_, and _throat lash_ will be fitted as for the riding horse. (_See_ Secs. =30-32=.)

2. The _riding rein_[4] should be fitted of such a length that the driver has complete control over his horse.

In the _leading rein_ the short piece on the near side should be carefully fitted so that the bearing of the bit in the horse’s mouth may be even when the rein is held in the driver’s hand.

[4] NOTE.--Special reins for near and off horses will eventually be abolished and ordinary reins substituted.

The _side rein_, if required, should be buckled to the cheek of the bit of the horse, the end being buckled to the saddle.

4. The _breast collar_ should hang horizontally from the padded neck straps, the lower edge about one inch above the point of the shoulder. The higher it is in reason the less chance there is of the horse galling.

5. The _pole bar supporting straps_ should be sufficiently short to carry the bar the width of a hand above the sharp breast bone; if lower, the bar will gall the horse’s chest. Care must be taken to have the bar horizontal.

6. The _loin straps_ should be so fitted that the traces shall be in a straight line when the horse is in draught.

7. The length of the _traces_ must depend on the size of the horses. The distance between horses in a team should not be less than one yard from nose to tail, but the traces of each pair of horses must be the same length.

8. The _breeching_ should be fitted about 16 inches below the upper part of the dock; it is kept horizontal by the long loin straps. When put back in the breeching the horse should be at least a foot from the footboard.

9. _Pole chains_ should be so fitted that when wheel horses are standing up to their collars there is no pull on the chains. By the use of a tug neck piece in connection with the pole bar supporting straps, horses with wheel harness can be harnessed to G.S. wagons whether the latter are fitted with pole chains or pole straps.

10. _The kicking strap_ should be so fitted as to give the play of a hand’s breadth between it and the horse’s croup when he is standing in his collar.

=55.= _Position of a driver standing to his horses and mounted._

1. The driver stands to his horses on the near side of his riding horse in line with the fore feet, holding the reins of both horses (the leading rein passing over the riding horse’s neck) in his right hand, right arm extended and level with his shoulder; left arm hanging down by his side; whip, stock upwards, in his legging.

2. On the command “PREPARE TO MOUNT,” the driver turns to his right about, places the leading rein over the riding rein in the palm of his left hand, puts his left foot in the stirrup, and takes hold of the front of the saddle with his left hand and the back of the saddle with his right; if he cannot reach the back of the saddle, he must take hold of the flap.

With the universal reins, the riding horse’s rein is held in the full of the hand, the end hanging down between the first finger and thumb, little finger dividing the reins. The leading rein is held in the full of the hand, the end hanging down from the opposite side of the hand to that of the ride horse’s reins.

At “MOUNT” he raises himself in the stirrup, passes his right leg over the horse and drops quietly into his saddle. He then adjusts his reins so that he has an even feeling on both horses’ mouths, takes the whip out of his legging with his right hand, which he passes through the loop at the end of the stock and places on his right thigh back up, grasping stock and thong close together, with his elbow a few inches from his body.

_This is the position of attention, mounted._

3. On the command “SIT AT EASE,” both hands are placed on the pommel of the saddle, the right hand holding stock and thong of whip over the left.

4. On the command “PREPARE TO DISMOUNT” the driver places the whip in his legging.

At “DISMOUNT.”--If the driver cannot reach the ground with his right foot while the left is still in the stirrup, he takes both feet out of the stirrups, and the body, at first supported by both hands, is gently lowered to the ground. He then comes to the position of standing to his horses.

5. On the command “STAND AT EASE,” keeping both legs straight, he carries the left foot about one foot-length to the left, and slides the right hand (retaining hold of the leading rein) down the riding rein of the riding horse as far as it will go; his left hand hanging down the thigh.

“STAND EASY.”--He fastens the leading rein to the riding rein by means of a thumb knot.

=56.= _Use of the whip._

1. The whip is chiefly used to control the off horse: _i.e._, to start him, to keep him in the collar, and to guide him when turning. It should be applied lightly on to the off side of the neck just in front of the withers, fingers closed on stock and thong.

2. The driver also salutes with his whip when at a walk, in the following manner:--He brings it to the recover as with a sword, passes it over the withers of the off horse, right arm extended, but with the elbow raised and slightly bent, hand in a line with the waist, back of the hand up and inclined to the front, fingers firmly closed on the stock and thong. The driver should hold his body erect with the shoulders square to the front, and look the officer full in the face. When the salute is finished, the whip is brought to the recover and then down to the position of attention. The salute commences four paces from the officer, and finishes four paces beyond him. A driver when halted, or at the trot, salutes by coming to attention and looking the officer full in the face.

3. On rare occasions the whip may be used to punish a horse, when the thong should be applied once on the shoulder. This procedure is seldom justified, and is liable to upset the other five horses in the team.

At all other times the thong should be held close against the stock with the end of the lash hanging down.

=57.= _Driving without vehicles._

1. Before recruits are allowed to drive horses in draught they should be practised in manœuvring the team alone. The centre and wheel drivers thus learn in the initial stages to keep the traces taut, and all likelihood of either spoiling or overtiring horses is avoided.

2. The riding school is well suited for this training; three teams can be worked together in an ordinary sized building, and they are more under the instructor’s eye than in the open.

3. The positions of the drivers in the teams should frequently be changed.

=58.= _Hooking in and unhooking._

1. Hooking in and unhooking should be done as in action, that is in complete teams with drivers mounted, and by the same men who perform the duty in action. The supporting bars for the poles are brought up from the footboards of the carriages and attached to the neck pieces of the wheelers. If possible the team should come up on the left of the carriage, as it is easier for the wheel driver to get his horses into position from the near than from the off side.

2. Traces should be fastened and unfastened at the swingle-trees. The two highest available numbers at the gun and wagon respectively hook in and unhook the teams of their own carriage. All numbers work on their own side.

3. The inside traces of the centre horses pass over the supporting bar to prevent the pole tipping up. When hooking in, the outside trace of each horse is attached before the inside one. In unhooking, each man unfastens what he fastened when hooking in, commencing where he left off.

4. In the case of heavy artillery, should additional horses (over the normal team of eight) be required, they should be attached to the outriggers on the limber and not hooked in front of the team, as the traces are not designed to stand the extra strain.

5. _Hooking in._--At “HOOK IN” the higher number holds up the pole near the footboard, and the lower number goes round by the head of the off wheeler, and as the wheel driver backs his horses guides the ring of the supporting bar on to the pole. As soon as the ring is on the pole the two gunners fasten the wheel traces (_see_ paras. 2 and 3).

_Drivers only._--The centre driver dismounts, and having secured his leading rein to his driving rein, raises the pole at the point and guides it into the ring on the pole bar. He then fastens the wheel traces (_see_ para. 3).

6. _Unhooking._--The two gunners unhook the wheel traces (_see_ paras. 2 and 3), and as soon as the attachments are released, the wheel driver gives the word “DRIVE ON.” The team drives on, allowing the pole to fall to the ground.

_Drivers only._--The centre driver dismounts and unhooks the wheel traces.

7. In exceptional circumstances the team can be unhooked in the following manner. The wheel driver releases the trace attachments of both wheel horses at the breast-collars, and the team drives on, allowing the pole to fall to the ground. The breechings and traces should be replaced on the horses as soon as possible.

=59.= _Traces._

1. When not in draught, the traces of lead and centre horses are crossed in rear of the saddle and the ends passed forward under the neck strap of the breast collar. In the case of spare horses the ends of the traces are brought forward and fastened by the quick release attachment to the rings on the breast collars, the short traces being carried on the footboards of the vehicles.

In the case of wheel horses the traces are passed through the trace bearers, then turned up under the loin straps and fastened back to the bearers by their quick release attachment.

=60.= _Moving off._

1. On the command “MARCH” the drivers ease the reins and close their legs to the riding horse, laying the whip over the neck of the off horse, to ensure both horses starting together. On the command being given every man in a team should start his horses to prevent loss of distance.

2. In all alterations to a quicker pace the drivers use their legs on the riding horse, and the whip on their off horse as described in Sec. =56=.

=61.= _Halting._

1. The lead and centre drivers raise the whip hand as high as the head, the whip horizontal across the front, as a signal to the wheel driver.

All three drivers feel their reins and take their horses out of the collar. The wheel driver, with his right hand on the leading rein, puts his horses back in the breeching.

As soon as the carriage stops, every horse is again put into the collar.

2. At any pace but the walk the lead and centre drivers must allow the wheel driver sufficient time to stop the carriage before they come to the halt.

=62.= _Wheeling to the right._

1. The lead driver wheels his riding horse by leaning his body to the right and feeling the right rein; he brings his off horse round at the same time by feeling the leading rein with his right hand.

The centre and wheel drivers follow the track of the lead driver, laying their whips over their hand horses’ necks in front of the withers to keep them from flying out or hanging back.

_Note._--On a horse that is not properly trained the lead driver may have to apply his right leg as an additional aid. No application of the left leg is necessary, as the traces prevent the horse’s quarters from flying out. (_See_ Sec. =43=.)

=63.= _Wheeling to the left._

1. The lead driver wheels his riding horse by leaning his body to the left and feeling the left rein; he brings his off horse round at the same time by applying the whip over his neck.

The lead driver may have to apply his left leg on an untrained horse (_see_ note above).

The centre and wheel drivers follow the track of the lead driver, applying the same aids at the point of wheel.

Riding horses must not be allowed to hang back.

=64.= _Wheeling about._

1. In this case the drivers lean their bodies slightly back, and to whichever side they are turning. In going to the right about the wheel driver should take the leading rein in his right hand instead of placing his whip over the neck of the off horse. In wheeling to the left about it may be necessary for him to use both hands on the riding horse to keep him from turning too soon. Otherwise the aids are the same as for wheeling to the right or left, but are continued longer.

2. In order to prevent the carriage from locking, the wheel driver must be very careful to keep up his hand, or riding horse, as the case may be, and the lead driver must on no account make the circle too small.

3. Carriages should be advanced one yard before being wheeled about from the halt.

=65.= _Unlimbering._

1. On the command “ACTION FRONT” the guns are unlimbered and brought into action as detailed in the respective handbooks. As soon as the limber is free, the order is given “LIMBER DRIVE ON.” The drivers advance one yard, wheel to the right about at a trot, and proceed direct to the wagon line.

2. On the command “ACTION RIGHT (or LEFT)” the guns are unlimbered and the order “LIMBER DRIVE ON” is given.

The drivers advance one yard, wheel to the left (or right) and proceed to the wagon line as directed.

=66.= _Limbering up._

1. On the command “FRONT LIMBER UP” the gun is reversed, the drivers trot up on the right of the gun, keeping one yard clear in passing it.

When clear of the gun wheel they throw their right shoulders forward, until the near wheel of the limber has just passed the trail eye.

They then halt and pass their horses off to the right until square, the lead and centre drivers easing their traces sufficiently to do so.

The wheel driver must be careful not to let the limber run back on the gun.

2. On the command “REAR LIMBER UP” the drivers trot up on the right of the trail eye inclining to the right, if necessary, to allow room for wheeling. The lead driver when he is level with the trail eye wheels to his left and again to his left as soon as he has passed it. To enable the wheel driver to wheel short round, the lead and centre drivers must ease their traces as soon as they have passed the trail eye. The wheel driver by holding in his riding, and keeping up his hand horse, squares the limber, at the same time preventing it running back on the gun.

3. To limber up to the right the drivers trot up; the lead driver passing close to the trail turns to the right when the wheel driver is in line with it; the lead and centre drivers then case their traces and pass their horses off until square. The wheel driver, as soon as he is in line with the trail, turns his horses to the right. In all limbering up the limber is halted by order of the No. 1, but the drivers must look over their shoulders to see that the limber is properly placed.

In limbering up to the left the procedure is similar to the above except that either the wagon or the gun must first be moved clear.

=67.= _Driving up steep hills._

1. To exert his strength to the utmost when pulling up hill, the draught horse must get as much weight as possible forward and into the collar. By assuming a lower and more advanced carriage of the head and neck than he would do if moving balanced and out of draught, he is able to add considerably to his power. He should therefore be allowed full liberty of rein when ascending a steep hill.

2. A draught horse can put more weight into his collar if ridden. Gunners should, therefore, be mounted on the off lead and centre horses when circumstances demand it. All men riding draught horses up hill should lean forward.

3. When manœuvring off the road, steep ascents should be taken in line to avoid checks.

When on a road or track, and if circumstances permit, the battery should be halted at the foot of the hill and sent up either by sections or subsections, with about 10 yards’ distance between carriages.

4. On exceptional occasions, such as when the team is exhausted, an extra pair may be hooked in to each carriage, but it must be remembered that this is of little use unless the ascent is straight, and that in any case it makes steady draught more difficult.

5. Should a check occur when the column is closed up, the lead drivers in rear must be prepared to throw off their horses to the right or left.

6. The pace should be a steady walk during the whole ascent, by which the top will be reached more easily and surely than if an attempt is made to “_spring_” the hill.

7. The detachments can also assist with drag ropes hooked into the drag washers, or by applying “_wheel purchases_,” if the carriage actually sticks. To use a drag rope as a “_wheel purchase_” it is hooked round the felloe near the lowest spoke, and is then laid on the tyre and passed over the wheel to the front. Should the wheel slip round, a drag rope may be wound round the felloe and tyre, with the turns about a foot apart to enable it to get a grip.

8. After going up a steep hill, the horses should be halted, but when this cannot be done, they should be allowed to move slowly to recover their wind.

=68.= _Jibbing._

Horses jib from various causes, such as sore shoulders, a too heavy load, bad driving, sore mouth, lameness, and vice.

The whip only aggravates the evil. A handful of gravel placed in the horse’s mouth often starts a jibber pulling at once especially if the wheels are manned at the same moment. The latter is important in any case.

=69.= _Driving down hill._

1. In driving down hill, the lead and centre drivers hold their horses back to allow the wheel driver the management of the carriage, but the traces must be kept up; the wheel driver with his right hand on the leading rein keeps his horses steadily in the breeching, taking care not to throw them on their haunches, and, in the case of shaft draught harness, not to let too much work fall on the off horse.

2. For moderately steep descents, the brake can be used. Should a descent be so steep that the brake is not sufficient, the detachment must hold on with the drag ropes hooked into the drag washers on the gun carriage or wagon body.

=70.= _Applying the brake._

The brake should be put on sufficiently tight to check but not to skid the wheel. In crossing a valley the man in charge of the brake must begin taking it off soon enough for the wheels to be quite free before the beginning of the rise on the other side is reached, or in fording a river before the carriage gets into the water.

=71.= _Reversing in narrow roads._

Before attempting to reverse, the carriage should be drawn up as close to the side of the road as possible. The carriage is next unlimbered, and the lead and centre horses unhooked and taken out. The gun or wagon body is then reversed, followed by the limber.

=72.= _Driving a pair of horses from the box._

1. When driven from the box, horses will neither work comfortably nor be under perfect control, unless so coupled that when on the move with an even bearing on the reins their heads are straight. The bearing of the bits on their mouths should be light, but constant, and the reins should never be allowed to slip through the driver’s fingers.

A pair of horses, worked as such, should frequently be interchanged. This will prevent the acquirement of bad habits, such as pulling away from the pole, shouldering the pole, &c.

2. _To put to._--The horses should be led up alongside the pole by the noseband (not by the bit), the chain should then be passed through the ring of the breast collar or kidney link of the hames. The traces should next be fastened, the outer ones first, and finally the horses should be poled up and coupled together. In unhooking the above procedure is reversed.

The correct adjustment of the _coupling reins_ requires great care. With a view to this, the outer reins have a number of holes punched in them, up and down which the buckles of the coupling reins can be shifted, thus enabling them to be shortened or lengthened to suit each particular horse’s mouth. For instance, if the near horse carries his head to the near side, the coupling rein on the off side should be taken up, when his head will be straightened, and _vice versâ_.

3. _Sitting on the box._--The driver should sit square to his front on the box, which should be low enough to allow of his legs being well bent at the knee. If the box seat is too high he is liable to be pulled off when a horse stumbles.

4. _How to hold the reins and whip._--The near rein passes over the forefinger, the off rein between the middle and third fingers of the left hand, both reins fall through the palm of the hand and hang loose on the left side of the driver’s knees. The reins are kept in position in the hand by the pressure of the third and fourth fingers assisted by the second; the thumb and forefinger should not be used for this purpose. The wrist should be rounded.

The whip should be held between the lower part of the thumb and the base of the forefinger of the right hand, thus leaving the fingers free. The point of the whip should be carried up, the stick inclined across the body and to the front. The position of the whip should not be changed when the right hand manipulates the reins. When required, the right hand can be placed on the reins in front of the left, the first and second fingers on top of the near rein, and the other two between the reins. The former grip the near rein and the latter the off rein.

Reins should always be shortened or lengthened from the front; _i.e._, either pushed back through the left hand or pulled out through the left hand.

5. _Use of the whip._--The whip should be employed as sparingly as possible. When used, the thong should be applied on the shoulder and drawn across from right to left, or _vice versâ_.

6. _Turning._--To turn or incline to the right, the right hand grasps the right rein in the full of the hand, knuckles up and inclined to the front. This gives the firmest hold and at the same time allows of the position of the whip being maintained. To turn to the left, the left rein is grasped in the same manner.

7. _Driving up hill._--An even and steady walk should be maintained when travelling up a steep hill; if the load is exceptionally heavy and circumstances permit, the horses should be allowed to incline from one side of the road to the other as the wagon ascends.

8. _Driving down hill._--The pace cannot be too slow in descending a hill, and the brake should not be applied until the horses take the breeching. When the shoe is used the wheel to which it is applied should be chained to the carriage; this prevents all chance of accident should the shoe become unshipped when travelling over rough ground.

TRAINING THE YOUNG HORSE.

=73.= _General principles._

1. The training of the horse must be gradual, and accompanied by a steady development of his physical powers.

It is better to give a remount two short lessons a day than one long one, for it must be remembered that the tendons and muscles of a young, immature animal are easily injured by too much continuous work, and they must be gradually strengthened in order to stand the strain to which they will be subjected.

Simplicity and suggestion should be prominent features in the first stage of training; the horse not only has to learn the meaning of the bridle and the leg, but must also adjust his balance to carrying a weight on his back.

2. Free forward movement should, therefore, be the first aim of the trainer, and as the horse learns the meaning of the bridle he should gradually be made to move well up to it and at the same time taught to carry his head for height in as good a position as nature will allow.

This may be called the first stage of the training, and should be carried out on a snaffle, if available. When the horse will go forward quietly he should be worked in the open.

3. The second stage of the training should consist in balancing and collecting the horse, in teaching him to turn on his hocks, to passage, to rein back, and to obey the aids quickly when ridden with one hand; to go quietly by himself or in company and to leave other horses freely; and where necessary to become accustomed to sword and rifle.

A few horses are naturally so well balanced, that if they have good tempers and are properly ridden, this part of their education offers no difficulties, but most artillery remounts will be heavy in front and awkward to turn excepting on the forehand. For handiness and for the safety of the rider they should be taught to carry more weight on their hocks--in fact to move in the most balanced manner that is possible, having regard to their make and to the retention of their liberty of movement.

This portion of the training, or most of it, should be carried out with the universal bridle, and while the pressure of the legs will often have to be strong, the handling of the reins should be of the gentlest, or the trainer will defeat his own ends.

4. The third stage of the training consists in teaching the horse to go quietly in draught in any position in a team.

5. Patience, firmness, and pluck are necessary to all entrusted with the training of young horses. Some horses are very much quicker at learning than others, and no rule can be laid down; on no account should the trainer attempt to hurry matters.

The trainer should communicate to his pupil his appreciation of any progress made by immediately rewarding him with a handful of corn or a carrot. Under no circumstances should he lose his temper with his horse, and punishment should only be resorted to when it is certain that the horse understands what he is required to do, but will not do it.

Instructors must not imagine that the animal can learn a lesson only by constant repetition. A horse is quick to receive new impressions, and remembers them after comparatively few lessons, provided they are given in a proper way.

6. As with recruits, jumping should be constantly practised throughout the training, commencing at an early stage over very low obstacles and always with a due consideration for the horse’s legs.

7. The same system of training is not applicable to every breed and condition of horse. The principles, however, are the same, and must be modified to suit the temperament of the animal, and his condition when he reaches the trainer.

Factors, which greatly influence the duration of the training and its ultimate success, are the capability of the rider and instructor; the temperament, make, and condition of the horse; and the training ground available.

=74.= _First stage._

1. Remounts arrive in all kinds of condition, and the methods adopted with them should be those best suited to their nature, condition and age.

The first day or two will be profitably spent by the trainer in getting thoroughly acquainted with his pupil. A snaffle having been put in the horse’s mouth, the trainer should lead him about, giving him confidence and making him acquainted with his voice. He may then handle him about the head and forehand. To prevent injuries to the mouth, it is a good plan at this early stage to lead the horse by reins attached to the D’s. of the head-collar, the snaffle being left to hang loosely in his mouth. During these lessons the horse should be given a handful of corn or green meat from time to time.

2. _Backing a remount._--As soon as the remount has become accustomed to being led from either side and is quiet, he may be saddled, but before he is mounted he should be allowed time to accustom himself to the feel of the saddle.

An assistant should stand in front of the horse, holding a rein of the snaffle in each hand; the man saddling him should hold the saddle by the back arch with the pommel over his right hip (the stirrups and girths having previously been thrown over the seat); he should then place the saddle, quickly and quietly, on the horse’s back, let the girths down, and tighten them gradually.

In backing a horse for the first time the help of two assistants is advisable, one on the off side, who should hold the head collar in his right hand and the off stirrup in his left, the other on the near side holding the snaffle rein in his left hand. The trainer grasping the back arch of the saddle in his right and the front arch in his left hand, should stand close to his horse on the near side, and raise his left foot up behind him by bending his knee; the second assistant will then grasp his leg just above the ankle and raise him quietly into the saddle on his stomach. This should be repeated several times until the horse is accustomed to the weight, when the assistant will place the rider’s left foot in the stirrup, who will then raise himself in the stirrup and throw his right leg clean over the horse’s quarters and drop quietly into the saddle; the remount should then be led a pace or two forward by the assistant in order to accustom him to the weight whilst moving; the rider avoiding too strong a pressure with the legs.

After two or three lessons, if the horse is quiet, the trainer may mount with the stirrup in the usual way, great care being taken not to touch him with the toe.

3. Considerable time and special pains should be taken to teach the young horse to stand absolutely still when being mounted or dismounted.

In dismounting the first few times it is advisable for an assistant to stand in front of the horse, and the rider after throwing his right leg over to the near side should remain lying across the saddle as in mounting, then quit his left stirrup and slide quietly to the ground. This method will prevent any possibility of the rider sticking his toe into the horse’s ribs, which is liable to make him unsteady.

4. During this period the trainer should devote his time to riding the horse about at a free walk, slow trot and canter, and to teaching him to stand still when required, and to lead easily.

To teach the remount to move forward freely at the walk, the rider should hold his reins long and use his legs.

To teach him to stand still, constant practice and the use of an assistant when necessary are required; the trainer should mount and dismount from either side, time after time, not allowing the horse to move forward immediately after mounting.

The horse should also be taught to do large circles to either hand and practised over very small jumps and should be ridden frequently outside barracks.

5. In exceptional cases it may be necessary to devote time to raising or lowering the horse’s head to the right position as far as nature will allow. It should be borne in mind that the same good carriage of head and suppleness of neck cannot be expected of all makes and shapes of horses.

The raising or lowering of the horse’s head must be done gradually, and as much as possible on the move, for if done at the halt he is apt to get behind the bit, and his freedom of action will be endangered. It should be effected by the combined action of the legs and hands. The legs compel the horse to move forward, drive and keep him up to the bit; the hands through the reins and snaffle regulate the position of the horse’s head and neck. The trainer must ride with a sympathetic hand; that is, he must relax the pressure as soon as the horse places his head in the required position, only retaining sufficient feeling on the mouth to maintain the head in position. If the horse’s head requires raising, the rider does so by holding his hands high. If the head requires lowering, the hands are depressed, but without jerking the reins.

6. This stage may seem tedious, but it must not be hurried. It is most important towards moulding the horse’s future disposition, and for building up his physical strength and preparing him for harder work later on.

=75.= _Second stage._

1. _Balancing and collecting the young horse._--Hitherto the rider’s only endeavour has been to teach the horse to go freely up to the bridle keeping his head at the proper height. He must now be taught to give to the bridle by bending his neck at the poll and slightly yielding his lower jaw, care being taken that in yielding the head is not lowered.

The trainer must not attempt much at one time. The longer a continuous pressure on the reins is maintained, the less inclined is the horse to yield, for the discomfort becomes less, the mouth losing its sensitiveness. The application of the legs must often be strong to make the horse yield.

A natural law of leverage governs the position of the horse’s head as the head and neck are moved forward and downwards, the centre of gravity of the whole horse is brought forward and he becomes heavier in the forehand and freer or lighter behind. At a trot or canter the horse naturally draws his head up to lighten the weight on his fore legs, and to give them free and equal play with the hind legs.

The young horse should be trained to carry his head fairly high at the trot and canter, and at such angle with the neck as will allow the bit to have the best bearing on the bars of the mouth. As a horse cannot put his fore feet down on the ground beyond his nose, he extends his neck when galloping in order to lengthen his stride. By thus moving his centre of gravity forward he lightens the weight on his quarters and obtains the full propelling power of his hind legs.

A horse when jumping makes use of his neck both as an assistance in taking off and to adjust his balance on landing; his head therefore should remain perfectly free during every phase of the jump.

_The bending lesson_ (_see_ Sec. =44=) is useful for balancing and collecting the young horse and for teaching him to obey the rider’s legs. Instruction should commence either on foot or with the horse’s head towards the wall, care being taken to make him bend correctly.

The exercises described in Sec. =46= are useful for teaching the young horse to walk, trot and canter collectedly, but at first plenty of time must be allowed for the horse to settle down quietly at each successive period of cantering, trotting or walking.

2. _The rein back_ is also a useful exercise in the training of a young horse. It collects him and teaches him to get his haunches under him, but it should never be practised for more than a few minutes at a time, nor should it be attempted until the horse will move well up to his bridle.

To teach a horse to rein back, it is best to begin on foot and to continue mounted, assisted by a man on foot.

The man on foot should stand in front of the horse and endeavour to make him go back quietly one or two paces at a time. He should feel the bit gently, but without a dead continuous pressure; if necessary, he may give a light tap to the horse’s leading foreleg, should he decline to move backwards.

When mounted, collect the horse by leg pressure and bring the weight of the body slightly forward; feel one side (say the right) of the horse’s mouth by the least movement of the wrist, at the same time apply the pressure of the left leg to the horse’s side so as to prevent him from moving his hindquarters to the left; lean the body a little to the right, and feel both reins. As soon as the horse draws back the off fore leg, reverse the aids until he draws back the near fore leg and so on. The ultimate object in view is to teach him to go backwards with his head carried as high as when going forward.

3. During this stage the remount should also be taught to change his legs at the canter, for which purpose the figure of eight (_see_ Sec. =46=) is a good exercise, provided the horse is first of all made to go kindly and collectedly on the larger circle.

4. In order that the horse may retain his full freedom of movement he should frequently be made to walk out fast and canter with a loose rein. To make a horse walk out, ease the reins and close the legs alternately, not both legs together as in the trot.

=76.= _Teaching a horse to stand still without being held._

A horse can be trained to stand still without being held in the following way:--

Replace the rein with a strong piece of rope, throw the rope rein thus made over the animal’s head, and fasten a sack to the end of it; the effect of this is that as the horse moves forward he treads on the sack, and gives himself a severe job in the mouth; after a few lessons it will be found that the horse will not move when the reins are thrown over his head, and the sack can be left off.

=77.= _Teaching the young horse to jump._

1. _General principles._--The aim of the instructor should be to teach the horse to jump ordinary natural obstacles willingly and safely. To this end outdoor jumping courses will be found very valuable. There should be one with small and another with fair-sized jumps, all as much like natural fences as possible, and laid out on cinder-tracks so as to be available all the year round.

Jumps in the school should not only represent height, but breadth; the horse to be useful must learn to jump out as well as up.

The secret in making a safe fencer is gradual and systematic training; even if a horse shows great promise when first jumped his education should in no way be hurried. He may lose his courage through an early and unnecessary fall.

2. _First lessons._--There are many ways of commencing; if the horse is fairly fit and will answer to the hand and leg he may be ridden over low and simple fences at once. To avoid all chance of failure it will, however, generally be found best to begin on foot and either to lead or lunge him over the jump. In a school or confined space the best method is first to lead the horse over a bar laid on the ground, and afterwards to lead him up to it and let him go. The obstacle should be gradually raised, always being put up firmly, and a man should stand at the far end of the school with a basket of corn. In a very short time most horses will jump a fence 3 feet 6 inches high with enjoyment. The class of obstacle should be varied as much as possible as time goes on.

The lungeing whip should never be used, as the horse will watch it instead of measuring his distance and calculating the jump.

If the single lungeing-rein and cavesson are used, the rein may be attached to the front of the cavesson and the animal led over the jump, or it may be fastened to a side D, when he should be made to take the fence on the circle. If done in this way it is a good plan to have a wing made to carry the rein over and prevent it catching in the obstacle and checking the horse suddenly.

3. _Further training in jumping._--After a sufficient schooling following any of the above methods, the remount may be sent down a jumping-lane if one is available, an old horse acting as pilot on the first occasion, or if there is no lane he may be ridden over small fences in the open. The first jumping lessons should be given at a trot. At this pace horses learn where to take off and jump from their hocks without chancing a fence.

When a young but not impetuous horse is being ridden at a fence, he should be allowed to go his own pace in reason; in this way he learns to adopt the pace most suited to the obstacle and to get back on his hocks for a high one.

=78.= _Third stage._

1. Before a horse is put into draught he should fulfil the following conditions:--

i. Stand still to be mounted or dismounted. ii. Be balanced, as well as make and shape will allow.