Part 18

After various tribulations in exploring a side gorge, at midnight on the 10th of May the party resumed travel up the valley. The condition of the sledge-runners rendered it necessary to reduce the weight to the least amount possible. This doubtless pleased the dogs, for the driver had to restrain their ardor. Leaving the sledge to pursue its way along the base of the hills, Lockwood ascended a considerable elevation and obtained a good outlook over the country. He was very agreeably surprised to find at the farther end of a gap up stream an apparent prolongation of the valley in the same general direction. On either side of this prolongation was a range of low heights, while the intermediate surface looked very level—so level that he took it for a long lake. To the left, just outside the heights on that side of the valley, he could see at intervals a glacier-wall, the north boundary of a great _mer de glace_. About twenty miles distant, the valley seemed again to be shut in by a range of hills, but over the tops of them, and at a great elevation on the distant horizon, he saw what seemed to be a snow-bank. This he made his objective point. Passing onward through the gap, they came to a long and picturesque lake which was named Lake Nan after an interesting niece; and coming to a place near the end of the valley, a break in the low heights to the left revealed the glacier they had before seen. Its surface was very distinct. Extending to the south a few miles, it soon reached an elevation that formed the horizon in that direction. It seemed a vast undulating surface, and, as was afterward discovered, is the backbone of Grinnell Land. The wall of the glacier near which they camped presented a vertical face of solid ice 140 feet high. At intervals they heard the sound of falling ice—small fragments which became detached and dropped to the base. The altitude of this camp above the sea-level was found to be 1,240 feet, and of Lake Nan 920 feet; that of their last camp was 685 feet, and of the first camp in the valley, 420 feet.

Passing onward, they crossed several small lakes close along the wall, with brooks emptying into them from the north. In a few hours they were on the divide, the surface to the north having more slope than that on the other side. The summit gave an elevation by barometer of 2,610 feet, about 400 feet higher than where they left the wall. They had an extensive view to the east, and could see Dodge River as far as they had explored it, also Mount Easy and the country adjacent. To the southeast, south, and southwest, was seen the glacier, which was named after Agassiz. It formed the horizon for half a dozen miles in these directions. All the ice-capped country and glaciers seen from the former camps were found to be connected with, and to form a part of this one glacier. Toward the north, the country had comparatively little snow. Presently they came in view of a mountain-peak toward the northwest, not many miles distant, which was recognized as Mount Arthur, the farthest point reached by Lieutenant Greely during the previous year. Away beyond it were seen very distinctly the United States and Garfield Mountains. Just to the west of Mount Arthur, they discovered a large lake, which Lockwood named Lake Fletcher. They were now on a surface rapidly sloping to the west. Some miles distant in this direction appeared a broken range of cliffs and mountains, and between their stand-point and these mountains was a wide valley, connected by a stream with Lake Fletcher, and a small lake, close to the Chinese Wall, which they called Lake Harry, the latter having an elevation of 1,320 feet. They crossed Lake Harry, and beyond it came to another called Lake Bessie, having an elevation of 1,630 feet, and covered with deep snow.

Reaching the cliffs to the west, they found the descent exceedingly precipitous and rugged. No other passage offered than that through a gorge which was filled with ice and hard snow, whose surface was almost perpendicular. As this was the only passage, they went into camp to devise ways and means. Next morning, Lockwood attached all the ropes he had, including dog-traces, to the sledge, and while he rode to guide caused the others to ease down the sledge. Unfortunately, the rope was too short, and those at the top let go. Gravity carried the sledge and rider down the foot of the slope, now somewhat reduced, with fearful rapidity, till they brought up against rocks covered with snow, fortunately without serious damage. The other men and dogs got down as best they could, the former digging footholds as they progressed.

Further descending the cañon, they came to another glacier stretching entirely across their way, and, as it seemed impossible to surmount it or the walls on either side, they came to a halt and enjoyed a night of rest. The next day they pushed on, though troubled with snow-blindness, and, overcoming the obstacle of the previous day, crossed a lake and encamped on its farther end. On the following day, after passing through a gorge, the outlet of the lake, between high cliffs, they were surprised to see a number of floebergs similar in every respect to the floebergs of the east Grinnell coast. At the same time they found the water to be _salt_, and saw the fresh tracks of a bear. These facts convinced Lockwood that they were near the western sea, probably at the head of a fiord. This soon became still more apparent. Here they also saw another glacier coming in some miles west of the last. They crossed a crack of open water, formed by the tide, and found themselves on well-recognized floe-ice, quite level but covered in places with deep snow. Ahead of them, twenty miles distant, on the opposite side of the fiord, was a bold headland, and toward this they now directed their course. This fiord, which Lockwood named after Lieutenant Greely, separated at its head into two bays. These he called, after Greely’s daughters, Adola and Antoinette. The latter bay they were now crossing, while they bore away to the north. It had become very foggy, and was snowing and blowing hard. When some miles out they crossed other bear-tracks, and finally reached the cape for which they had been striving. Here the south shore of the fiord bent off toward the west-southwest being very wide and walled in on all sides by steep cliffs broken in a few places by branch fiords or bays. They encamped at the cape on the 13th, had supper, and soon turned in to sleep and fast as long as possible, or until the storm abated, as the party was now reduced to what they called a starvation allowance. There was nothing to do but to make observations when the sun appeared.

The mouth of the fiord at the north side was found to be about forty miles off, but the snow was deep and soft, and they could not attempt it without rations, all of which was extremely provoking. The sun became dimly visible through a snow-storm, looking like a grease-spot in the sky; but, notwithstanding, observations were attempted for latitude and longitude, and many compass-bearings were taken. At times everything was shut out of sight excepting the nearest cliff. Brainard feared they would have a very hard time in getting back, and Frederick evidently thought he was a long distance from Fort Conger, seeming rather “down in the mouth.”

Soon after breakfast on the 15th, Lockwood and Brainard started to ascend the cliffs near by, the weather having partially cleared. They did so by means of a ravine opposite the camp, and had hardly reached the top before the snow began to fall again, and the wind to blow from the east; but, notwithstanding, they saw a large glacier to the south twenty or thirty miles away, and another to the northwest at about the same distance. The first was apparently an offshoot of the great “Chinese Wall” already mentioned. They saw also a lofty range of mountains far to the north, running generally parallel with the fiord. The cliffs to the west shut out the mouth of the fiord, and, before they could get far enough in that direction to see over them, the coming storm obscured almost everything. These cliffs were 2,140 feet high by the barometer, and almost vertical. The driving snow now became very uncomfortable, and, after going three miles westward, they concluded to return. _En route_, they found a number of fossils of what seemed to be trees, snakes, or fishes, Brainard being the first to notice them. They also saw a ptarmigan, an owl, and some snow-buntings, these being the only living objects observed. Reached the tent after six hours’ absence, and found Frederick tramping around in the snow, not knowing what to do with himself. After supper, all three of the party with the sledge and dogs went an hour’s journey toward the opposite shore of the fiord, ten miles away. The sky was partially clear, and they got a very good view down the fiord, the telescope bringing into view another cape (Cape Lockwood). Between that and the cape on the north side (Cape Brainard), they failed to see any land, though they examined long and carefully with the telescope. The fiord between those two capes was very wide. Several branch fiords, or what appeared to be such, were noticed. Cape Lockwood seemed to be on the farther side of one of these, or on an island. The country on both sides of the fiord was very elevated, that on the north side much broken, and that on the south, away from the fiord, apparently an ice-clad surface rising into immense, dome-like undulations against the horizon.

After a meager breakfast, they started on their return, finding the snow very deep and soft. The effect of short rations on the dogs was noticed. They saw two seals lying on the ice, which Frederick tried hard to shoot, but in vain. Lockwood was especially anxious to get a seal, for it looked as if they would have to kill one dog to save the remainder. After much trouble for want of food, they resumed their journey on the 17th, verifying at various points the observations that had been previously made in regard to the great ice-wall and the lake over which they had already passed.

On reaching the end of the lake, they began the ascent of the ravine. The snow at the head of the ravine was very soft and deep, and they had hard work to get through it. Arriving at the big snow-drift which they had descended with so much difficulty and danger, it became a question how to ascend, but they managed it by first cutting some steps and getting the dogs up, and then, attaching them by long lines to the sledge below, men and dogs together pulled the load up the almost vertical face. The party went into camp at the old place, and decided to kill one of the dogs, yet very reluctantly, Frederick opposing it. Brainard had suggested White Kooney, but Frederick named Button, a young dog. Button had eaten up his harness that morning, and this decided his fate. He was shot by Frederick, and soon the carcass was skinned and presented to his brethren. Old Howler at once seized a hind-quarter, but the others did nothing more than smell the meat. They walked around it in a reflective mood, debating whether to yield to their hunger or to their repugnance. When the party awoke next morning, nothing remained of poor Button but some of the larger bones.

On the 18th, Lockwood and Brainard ascended a neighboring mountain and got a look at the country. The ascent was easy and they gained the top in a short time; altitude, 2,008 feet. From this point they could see the “Chinese Wall” stretching off to the southwest forty miles, over hills and dales, as far as the glacier south of Fossil Mountain, although Lockwood could not recognize that particular glacier. The glaciers at the two ends of the lake, near Greely Fiord, were readily seen to be offshoots of the greater one, whose surface toward the south could be seen for several miles. In that direction, Lockwood took the bearings of several ice-capped mountains, one, as he thought, identical with a very high mountain seen to the south from Antoinette Bay. The “Chinese Wall” had the same general aspect everywhere—a vertical face of pure white or green ice upward of two hundred feet high, and extending across the country in a fashion he could liken to nothing else.

From here Lockwood made a short excursion by himself to Lake Harry, discovered a number of other small lakes, and obtained the altitude of several localities. He returned to camp only to find the dogs in a bad way for food, and a scarcity for himself and men. Resuming their course the next morning, after the dog Howler had performed the remarkable feat of stealing a piece of meat when it was cooking on the alcohol-stove, they passed many of the localities they had seen before, but in some cases hardly recognized them on account of the flying snow. Making two marches in twenty-four hours, they reached their first camp, and found the tent blown down, but the big sledge in its position, with the American flag flying over it as gayly as if in a pleasant and genial clime. The dogs were gratified with a good feast of pemmican, and the men themselves found it delightful, once more to have a full supply of food.

Their next move was for Archer Fiord, by way of Beatrix Bay and Record Point. They crossed another lake, where, as once before, they could see the bottom through ice that was seven feet in thickness, having revisited the north side of Musk-ox Valley, which was separated from the lake by a very low and narrow divide. Dodge River was seen bending off to the northeast toward Howgate Fiord. The surroundings were very picturesque, but barren and desolate in the extreme. They saw no signs of game, and even the poor, stunted vegetation of the region was wanting. Rocks and snow, with stretches of bare ground, composed the prospect.

The lake alluded to above was about twelve miles long—a considerable sheet of water—and, no doubt, in summer would be an interesting place to visit, as places go in the Arctic regions.

After camping they proceeded along to the east of Murray Island, the weather cloudy and calm. Depot Point was revisited, to look for the English rations, but nothing found.

Having killed a seal, they took the meat and blubber along, and camped about ten miles from Bulley’s Lump, where they had a good feast of meat and liver. The latter was greatly relished, Brainard making it into many dishes.

On the 24th, they enjoyed their breakfast at midnight, Lockwood calling it a real _midnight mass_, as it was a black mass of seal-liver, English meat, corned beef, potatoes, and hard bread, all cooked together in one stew which was very good, notwithstanding its miscellaneous character.

The comments of Lockwood, in regard to the expedition, and how matters were at the station, were as follow:

“No such word as ‘failed’ to write this time, I am thankful to say, but the happy reflection is mine that I accomplished more than any one expected, and more than I myself dared hope—the discovery of the western sea, and hence the western coast-line of Grinnell Land. I have now the rather ponderous task of preparing a report, making a map, and writing out this journal from my notes. Tidal observations have been taken at Capes Baird, Distant, and Beechy, simultaneously, showing that the tides arrive at these places in the order named. This is very singular, as the previous expeditions into these parts established (?) the tides as coming from the north. This agrees, however, with the order of their arrival at Cape Sumner, Gap Valley, and Black Horn Cliffs, where I took observations in April. No more musk-ox meat left; it ran out on the 20th inst., and hunting-parties sent out April 25th saw nothing. I surmised as much, from the absence of game on my trip, though Brainard did not agree with me. Two seals have been shot, but only one secured.

“I find the social relations of our room not improved—rather worse than better. Dr. P., though he shook hands and asked me several questions as to my trip, relapsed into silence, which he seldom breaks. Lieutenant K. had but one question to ask. I often contrast ours with the pleasant relations of the English officers when here, and think how much happier we should be in following their example. As it is, I soon relapse into _ennui_ and apathy. A sledge-journey, with all its trials, is preferable to this. I view those ahead of us with indifference, as it will rid me of this forced association. Another winter would render me a maniac, or put me under a cairn.

“The spirits of the men seem good. The sun has revived them. Merry groups may be seen at any time on the sunny sides of the house.

“How often do I think of home, which now seems to me like a series of pictures or objects long since seen! how often of my dear father, whom may a kind Providence spare for many, many years!

“Both Brainard and I lost a score of pounds weight on our late trip; but we are rapidly regaining our avoirdupois. My appetite is frightful, and nothing comes amiss. I want to eat every three or four hours. Fortunately, we have a supply of musk-ox beef on hand, having killed three recently aggregating four hundred pounds, to which are added many water and other fowl daily brought in. There was felt at one time some apprehension that our resource in this respect had disappeared, and fears were entertained of scurvy. The men seem to have fared so well that their appetites have become dainty. One would suppose that pork and beans were not staples at our army posts.

“Israel makes my _farthest_ of the last trip, latitude 80° 47´, longitude 88° 29´. Hence my explorations extend over 2½° of latitude and 38° of longitude. Have plotted my western journey, and find that my farthest carries me far off the English map. I took latitude and longitude observations at every camp, and also frequent compass-bearings; to reconcile all these is a task.

“Rice has taken a photograph of my corner, where I do all my work and also sleep.

“Have been reading the authorities on glaciers, and regret I did not inform myself better before going out. But perhaps that Chinese Wall will make up for my short-comings.

“Those rheumatic pains I had a year ago have returned and trouble me much. I must be moving again soon.

“Several of the dogs, becoming mangy, have been shot. Poor old ‘Howler,’ whom we left on the ice-floe, hoping he would recover and follow us, was found dead near the same place. Oh! the hours of misery I have spent in sleeping-bags, kept awake by that howling brute—howling, perhaps, just because another dog looked at him! But, for all his howlings and stealings, the ex-king was a good worker and did his duty, and that should be all required of any one, man or dog. May he rest in peace in the happy hunting-grounds of the canine race! Frederick, I presume, will put on crape for him.”

XVI. PREPARING FOR HOME.

Hardly had Lieutenant Lockwood reoccupied his _corner_ long enough to get thoroughly rested and warm, before we find him hard at work again and ready for any emergency. At the request of Lieutenant Greely, he undertook a task in which he himself feared that he manifested more zeal than discretion. Dr. Pavy, the natural history custodian of the expedition, having failed to render reports of the collections, or properly care for them, was relieved soon after Lockwood’s return from the west, and the department was transferred to Lockwood. With very little aid from the doctor, he made lists and secured the specimens from further injury, the men having shown much industry and zeal in adding to the collection. In the mean time, Fredericks, who was a saddler by trade, rendered good service by making for Lockwood and the men seal-skin boots, which were of great use; and he also made himself useful by overhauling the sleeping-bags and making new ones for the contemplated boat-voyage to Littleton Island at a later day. Snyder had also made some wearing gear for use on board the relief-ship.

“What a change for us all,” wrote Lockwood on the 3d of June, “if we ever return home! And how much to talk about, and how much to hear! Just two years ago, I left Baltimore on the Nova Scotia, to join the Proteus at St. John’s. Open water is reported in the straits near Cape Baird. How eagerly we watch for any change that may effect our release!”

On the 22d of June, a party was sent up the Bellows for game and returned successful, having killed eight musk-oxen, one seal, and a few geese, all of which were duly brought in. Many waterfowl and ptarmigans were brought from other points; and then followed a grand dinner in honor of Dr. Pavy’s birthday. To show the social relations of the officers, Lockwood says, “The only remark at dinner was a very sage one by myself, viz., that the sun was now on his way south, to which Lieutenant Greely assented.

“The men all busy and all cheerful. Lieutenant Greely remarked that it did not look as if the ‘gloom which their coming fate cast over the spirits of the men’ was quite as deep as Lieutenant Kislingbury thought it to be. Another day gone,” wrote Lockwood—“another day nearer the end of our stay here! A miserable, gloomy day it is too. Snow, or snow mixed with rain, all day, and last night it blew a gale from the right direction to clear away the ice—north-east. I think myself now in excellent condition for a hermit’s life, having had two years’ experience of a life not very dissimilar.”

On the 3d of June, Lockwood made the ascent of an immense “hog-back” north of the station. Hog-back was the term used by the English to designate the oval-shaped elevations so common in this region, being neither mountain nor table-land, but immense undulations which, with more or less slope, rise three, four, or even five thousand feet above the sea-level. He was the first to ascend this one, and did so to view the country northwest of it, which he desired to explore. It was the highest of a series of ridges, half a mile or so apart, each just high enough to suggest the idea of its being the genuine top, but showing another beyond still higher. He pressed on, frequently resting, and finally _did_ reach the top, and saw, beyond, the United States Mountains in the distance. The view from this elevation, more than half a mile above the sea-level, was superb. The straits seemed one solid mass of ice. The Greenland shore and Archer’s Fiord were in full view. The whole land was made up of mountains.

The 4th of July was celebrated by a game of baseball, in which Lieutenant Greely took part; also the Esquimaux, but they confined themselves to running after the ball. A good dinner followed, to which Lieutenant Greely contributed four bottles of Sauterne; but the doctor declined the wine, and made a hasty meal. They also had a rifle-match. Several of the men donned white shirts and other “store-clothes,” metamorphosing themselves completely, flannel shirts, with trousers in boots, being the usual costume.