Farm Mechanics: Machinery and Its Use to Save Hand Labor on the Farm.

CHAPTER VIII

Chapter 97,720 wordsPublic domain

MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES

FARM OFFICE

Business farming requires an office. Business callers feel sensitive about talking farm or live-stock affairs before several members of the family. But they are quite at ease when alone with the farmer in his office. A farm office may be small but it should contain a desk or table, two or three chairs, book shelves for books, drawers for government bulletins and a cabinet to hold glassware and chemicals for making soil tests and a good magnifying glass for examining seeds before planting. A good glass is also valuable in tracing the destructive work of many kinds of insect pests.

The office is the proper place for making germination tests of various farm seeds. Seventy degrees of heat is necessary for the best results in seed testing. For this reason, as well as for comfort while working, the heating problem should receive its share of attention. Many times it so happens that a farmer has a few minutes just before mealtime that he could devote to office work if the room be warm enough.

Neatly printed letter-heads and envelopes are important. The sheets of paper should be eight and a half by eleven inches in size, pure white and of good quality. The printing should be plain black and of round medium-sized letters that may be easily read. Fancy lettering and flourishes are out of place on business stationery.

Halftone illustration of farm animals or buildings are better used on separate advertising sheets that may be folded in with the letters when wanted.

Typewriters are so common that a hand-written letter is seldom seen among business correspondence. A busy farmer is not likely to acquire much speed with a typewriter, but his son or daughter may. One great advantage is the making of carbon copies. Every letter received is then filed in a letter case in alphabetical order and a carbon copy of each answer is pinned to it for future reference.

The cost of furnishing a farm office will depend upon the inclinations of the man. A cheap kitchen table may be used instead of an expensive mahogany desk. A new typewriter costs from fifty to ninety dollars, but a rebuilt machine that will do good work may be obtained for twenty.

A useful magnifying glass with legs may be bought for a dollar or two. Or considerable money may be invested in a high-powered microscope.

SPEED INDICATOR

The speed requirements of machines are given by the manufacturers. It is up to the farmer to determine the size of pulleys and the speed of intermediate shafts between his engine and the machine to be driven. A speed indicator is held against the end of a shaft at the center. The indicator pin then revolves with the shaft and the number of revolutions per minute are counted by timing the pointer on the dial with the second hand of a watch.

SOIL TOOLS

Soil moisture often is the limiting factor in crop raising. Soil moisture may be measured by analysis. The first step is to obtain samples at different depths. This is done accurately and quickly with a good soil auger. Other paraphernalia is required to make a careful analysis of the sample, but a farmer of experience will make a mud ball and form a very good estimate of the amount of water in it.

FENCE-MAKING TOOLS

_Sliding Field Gate._--Each farm field should have a gate, not necessarily expensive, but it should be reasonably convenient. Farm field gates should be made sixteen feet long, which will allow for a clear opening about fourteen feet wide. The cheapest way to make a good farm gate is to use a 10-inch board for the bottom, 8-inch for the board next to the bottom and three 6-inch boards above that. The space between the bottom board and next board is two inches. This narrow space prevents hogs from lifting the gate with their noses. The spaces widen toward the top, so that the gate when finished is five feet high. If colts run the fields then a bar is needed along the top of the gate. Six cross pieces 1 inch by 6 inches are used to hold the gate together. These cross pieces are bolted through at each intersection. Also a slanting brace is used on the front half of the gate to keep it from racking and this brace is put on with bolts. Two posts are set at each end of the gate. The front posts hold the front end of the gate between them, and the rear posts the same. There is a cross piece which reaches from one of the rear posts to the other to slide the gate and hold it off the ground. A similar cross piece holds the front end of the gate up from the ground. Sometimes a swivel roller is attached to the rear cross piece to roll the gate if it is to be used a good deal. A plain, simple sliding gate is all that is necessary for fields some distance from the barn.

CORN SHOCK HORSE

A convenient corn shocking horse is made with a pole cut from a straight tree. The pole is about six inches through at the butt and tapers to a small end. About twenty feet is a good length. There are two legs which hold the large end of the pole up about 40" from the ground. These legs are well spread apart at the bottom. Two feet back from the legs is a horizontal hole about one and one-quarter inches in diameter to hold the crossbar. This crossbar may be an old broom handle. The pole and the crossbar mark the four divisions of a corn shock. Corn is cut and stood up in each corner, usually nine hills in a corner, giving thirty-six hills to a shock. Corn planted in rows is counted up to make about the same amount of corn to the shock. Of course a heavy or light crop must determine the number of rows or hills. When enough corn is cut for a shock it is tied with two bands, the crossbar is pulled out and the corn horse is dragged along to the next stand.

HUSKING-PIN

Hand huskers for dividing the cornhusks at the tips of the ears are made of wood, bone or steel. Wooden husking-pins are made of ironwood, eucalyptus, second growth hickory, or some other tough hardwood. The pin is about four inches long, five-eighths of an inch thick and it is shaped like a lead-pencil with a rather long point. A recessed girdle is cut around the barrel of the pin and a leather finger ring fits into and around this girdle. Generally the leather ring fits the larger finger to hold the pin in the right position while permitting it to turn to wear the point all around alike. Bone husking-pins are generally flat with a hole through the center to hold the leather finger ring. Steel husking-pins are shaped differently and have teeth to catch and tear the husks apart.

PAINT BRUSHES

Paint brushes may be left in the paint for a year without apparent injury. The paint should be deep enough to nearly bury the bristles. Pour a little boiled linseed oil over the top to form a skin to keep the air out. It is cheaper to buy a new brush than to clean the paint out of one that has been used.

FRUIT PICKING

Apples are handled as carefully as eggs by men who understand the business of getting high prices. Picking boxes for apples have bothered orchard men more than any other part of the business. It is so difficult to get help to handle apples without bruising that many inventions have been tried to lessen the damage. In western New York a tray with vertical ends and slanting sides has been adopted by grape growers as the most convenient tray for grapes. Apple growers are adopting the same tray. It is made of three-eighths-inch lumber cut 30 inches long for the sides, using two strips for each side. The bottom is 30 inches long and three-eighths of an inch thick, made in one piece. The ends are seven-eighths of an inch thick cut to a bevel so the top edge of the end piece is fourteen inches long and the bottom edge is ten inches long. The depth of the end piece is eight inches. Hand cleats are nailed on the outsides of the end pieces so as to project one-half inch above the top. These cleats not only serve to lift and carry the trays, but when they are loaded on a wagon the bottoms fit in between the cleats to hold them from slipping endways. In piling these picking boxes empty, one end is slipped outward over the cleat until the other end drops down. This permits half nesting when the boxes are piled up for storage or when loaded on wagons to move to the orchard.

Apples are picked into the trays from the trees. The trays are loaded on to wagons or stone-boats and hauled to the packing shed, where the apples are rolled out gently over the sloping sides of the crates on to the cushioned bottom of the sorting table. Orchard men should have crates enough to keep the pickers busy without emptying until they are hauled to the packing shed. The use of such trays or crates save handling the apples over several times. The less apples are handled the fewer bruises are made.

In California similar trays are used, but they have straight sides and are called lug boxes. Eastern fruit men prefer the sloping sides because they may be emptied easily, quickly and gently.

FRUIT PICKING LADDERS

Commercial orchards are pruned to keep the bearing fruit spurs as near the ground as possible, so that ladders used at picking time are not so long as they used to be.

The illustration shows one of the most convenient picking ladders. It is a double ladder with shelves to hold picking trays supported by two wheels and two legs. The wheels which are used to support one side of the frame are usually old buggy wheels. A hind axle together with the wheels works about right. The ladder frame is about eight feet high with ladder steps going up from each side. These steps also form the support for the shelves. Picking trays or boxes are placed on the shelves, so the latter will hold eight or ten bushels of apples, and may be wheeled directly to the packing shed if the distance is not too great.

Step-ladders from six to ten feet long are more convenient to get up into the middle of the tree than almost any other kind of ladder. Commercial apple trees have open tops to admit sunshine. For this reason, straight ladders are not much used. It is necessary to have ladders built so they will support themselves. Sometimes only one leg is used in front of a step-ladder and sometimes ladders are wide at the bottom and taper to a point at the top. The kind of ladder to use depends upon the size of the trees and the manner in which they have been pruned. Usually it is better to have several kinds of ladders of different sizes and lengths. Pickers then have no occasion to wait for each other.

FEEDING RACKS

Special racks for the feeding of alfalfa hay to hogs are built with slatted sides hinged at the top so they will swing in when the hogs crowd their noses through to get the hay. This movement drops the hay down within reach. Alfalfa hay is especially valuable as a winter feed for breeding stock. Sows may be wintered on alfalfa with one ear of corn a day and come out in the spring in fit condition to suckle a fine litter of pigs. Alfalfa is a strong protein feed. It furnishes the muscle-forming substances necessary for the young litter by causing a copious flow of milk. One ear of corn a day is sufficient to keep the sow in good condition without laying on too much fat. When shoats are fed in the winter for fattening, alfalfa hay helps them to grow. In connection with grain it increases the weight rapidly without adding a great deal of expense to the ration. Alfalfa in every instance is intended as a roughage, as an appetizer and as a protein feed. Fat must be added by the use of corn, kaffir corn, Canada peas, barley or other grains. Alfalfa hay is intended to take the place of summer pasture in winter more than as a fattening ration.

SPLIT-LOG ROAD DRAG

The only low cost road grader of value is the split-log road drag. It should be exactly what the name implies. It should be made from a light log about eight inches in diameter split through the middle with a saw. Plenty of road drags are made of timbers instead of split logs, but the real principle is lost because such drags are too heavy and clumsy. They cannot be quickly adjusted to the varying road conditions met with while in use.

The illustration shows the right way of making a road drag, and the manner in which it is drawn along at an angle to the roadway so as to move the earth from the sides towards the center, but illustrations are useless for showing how to operate them to do good work. The eccentricities of a split-log road drag may be learned in one lesson by riding it over a mile or two of country road shortly after the frost has left the ground in the spring of the year. It will be noticed that the front half of the road drag presents the flat side of the split log to the work of shaving off the lumps while the other half log levels and smooths and puddles the loosened moist earth by means of the rounded side. Puddling makes earth waterproof. The front, or cutting edge, is faced with steel. The ridges and humps are cut and shoved straight ahead or to one side to fill holes and ruts. This is done by the driver, who shifts his weight from one end to the other, and from front to back of his standing platform to distribute the earth to the best advantage. The rounded side of the rear half log presses the soft earth into place and leaves the surface smooth.

Unfortunately, the habit of using narrow tired wagons on country roads has become almost universal in the United States. To add to their destructive propensities, all wagons in some parts of the country have the same width of tread so that each wheel follows in paths made by other wheels, until they cut ruts of considerable depth. These little narrow ditches hold water so that it cannot run off into the drains at the sides of the roadway. When a rut gets started, each passing wheel squeezes out the muddy water, or if the wheel be revolving at a speed faster than a walk it throws the water, and the water carries part of the roadway with it so that small ruts are made large and deep ruts are made deeper. In some limited sections road rules demand that wagons shall have wide tires and have shorter front axles, so that with the wide tires and the uneven treads the wheels act as rollers instead of rut makers. It is difficult to introduce such requirements into every farm section. In the meantime the evils of narrow tires may be overcome to a certain extent by the persistent and proper use of the split-log road drag. These drags are most effectual in the springtime when the frost is coming out of the ground. During the muddy season the roads get worked up into ruts and mire holes, which, if taken in time, may be filled by running lengthwise of the road with the drag when the earth is still soft. When the ground shows dry on top and is still soft and wet underneath is the time the drags do the best work by scraping the drier hummocks into the low places where the earth settles hard as it dries.

A well rounded, smooth road does not get muddy in the summer time. Summer rains usually come with a dash. Considerable water falls in a short time, and the very act of falling with force first lays the dust, then packs the surface. The smooth packed surface acts like a roof, and almost before the rain stops falling all surface water is drained off to the sides so that an inch down under the surface the roadbed is as hard as it was before the rain. That is the reason why split log road drags used persistently in the spring and occasionally later in the season will preserve good roads all summer. It is very much better to follow each summer rain with the road drag, but it is not so necessary as immediate attention at the proper time in spring. Besides, farmers are so busy during the summer months that they find it difficult to spend the time. In some sections of the middle West one man is hired to do the dragging at so much per trip over the road. He makes his calculations accordingly and is prepared to do the dragging at all seasons when needed. This plan usually works out the best because one man then makes it his business and he gets paid for the amount of work performed. This man should live at the far end of the road division so that he can smooth his own pathway leading to town.

STEEL ROAD DRAG

Manufacturers are making road drags of steel with tempered blades adjustable to any angle by simply moving the lever until the dog engages in the proper notch. Some of these machines are made with blades reversible, so that the other side can be used for cutting when the first edge is worn. For summer use the steel drag works very well, but it lacks the smoothing action of a well balanced log drag.

SEED HOUSE AND BARN TRUCKS

Bag trucks for handling bags of grain and seeds should be heavy. Bag truck wheels should be eight inches in diameter with a three-inch face. The steel bar or shoe that lifts and carries the bag should be twenty-two inches in length. That means that the bottom of the truck in front is twenty-two inches wide. The wheels run behind this bar so the hubs do not project to catch against standing bags or door frames. The length of truck handles from the steel lift bar to the top end of the hand crook is four feet, six inches. In buying bag trucks it is better to get the heavy solid kind that will not upset. The light ones are a great nuisance when running them over uneven floors. The wheels are too narrow and too close together and the trucks tip over under slight provocation. Platform trucks for use in moving boxes of apples or crates of potatoes or bags of seed in the seed house or warehouse also should be heavy. The most approved platform truck, the kind that market men use, is made with a frame four feet in length by two feet in width. The frame is made of good solid hardwood put together with mortise and tenon. The cross pieces or stiles are three-quarters of an inch lower than the side pieces or rails, which space is filled with hardwood flooring boards firmly bolted to the cross pieces so they come up flush with the side timbers. The top of the platform should be sixteen inches up from the floor. There are two standards in front which carry a wooden crossbar over the front end of the truck. This crossbar is used for a handle to push or pull the truck. The height of the handle-bar from the floor is three feet. Rear wheels are five inches in diameter and work on a swivel so they turn in any direction like a castor. The two front wheels carry the main weight. They are twelve inches in diameter with a three-inch face. The wheels are bored to fit a one-inch steel axle and have wide boxings bolted to the main timbers of the truck frame. Like the two-wheel bag truck, the wheels of the platform truck are under the frame so they do not project out in the way, which is a great advantage when the truck is being used in a crowded place.

HOME CANNING OUTFIT

There are small canning outfits manufactured and sold for farm use that work on the factory principle. For canning vegetables, the heating is done under pressure because a great deal of heat is necessary to destroy the bacteria that spoil vegetables in the cans. Steam under pressure is a good deal hotter than boiling water. There is considerable work in using a canning outfit, but it gets the canning out of the way quickly. Extra help may be employed for a few days to do the canning on the same principle that farmers employ extra help at threshing time and do it all up at once. Of course, fruits and vegetables keep coming along at different times in the summer, but the fall fruit canning may be done at two or three sittings arranged a week or two apart and enough fruit packed away in the cellar to last a big family a whole year. Canning machinery is simple and inexpensive. These outfits may be bought from $10 up. Probably a $20 or $25 canner would be large enough for a large family, or a dozen different families if it could be run on a co-operative plan.

ELECTRIC TOWEL

The "air towel" is sanitary, as well as an economical method of drying the hands. A foot pedal closes a quick-acting switch, thereby putting into operation a blower that forces air through an electric heating device so arranged as to distribute the warmed air to all parts of the hands at the same time. The supply of hot air continues as long as the foot pedal is depressed. The hands are thoroughly dried in thirty seconds.

STALLS FOR MILCH GOATS

Milch goats are not fastened with stanchions like cows. The front of the manger is boarded tight with the exception of a round hole about two feet high and a slit in the boards reaching from the round opening to within a few inches of the floor. The round hole is made large enough so that the goat puts her head through to reach the feed, and the slit is narrow enough so she cannot back up to pull the feed out into the stall. This is a device to save fodder.

STABLE HELPS

Overhead tracks have made feed carriers possible. Litter or feed carriers and manure carriers run on the same kind of a track, the only difference is in size and shape of the car and the manner in which the contents are unloaded. Manure carriers and litter carriers have a continuous track that runs along over the manure gutters and overhead lengthwise of the feed alleys. There are a number of different kinds of carriers manufactured, all of which seem to do good service. The object is to save labor in doing the necessary work about dairy stables. To get the greatest possible profit from cows, it is absolutely necessary that the stable should be kept clean and sanitary, also that the cows shall be properly fed several times a day. Different kinds of feed are given at the different feeding periods. It is impossible to have all the different kinds of food stored in sufficient quantities within easy reach of the cows. Hence, the necessity of installing some mechanical arrangement to fetch and carry. The only floor carrier in use in dairy stables is a truck for silage. Not in every stable is this the case. Sometimes a feed carrier is run directly to the silo. It depends a good deal on the floor what kind of a carrier is best for silage. The advantage of an overhead track is, that it is always free from litter. Where floor trucks are used, it is necessary to keep the floor bare of obstruction. This is not considered a disadvantage because the floor should be kept clean anyway.

HOUSE PLUMBING

When water is pumped by an engine and stored for use in a tank to be delivered under pressure in the house, then the additional cost of hot and cold water and the necessary sink and bath room fixtures is comparatively small. Modern plumbing fixtures fit so perfectly and go together so easily that the cost of installing house plumbing in the country has been materially reduced, while the dangers from noxious gases have been entirely eliminated. Open ventilator pipes carry the poisonous gases up through the roof of the house to float harmlessly away in the atmosphere. Septic tanks take care of the sewerage better than the sewer systems in some towns. Plumbing fixtures may be cheap or expensive, according to the wishes and pocketbook of the owner. The cheaper grades are just as useful, but there are expensive outfits that are very much more ornamental.

FARM SEPTIC TANK

Supplying water under pressure in the farmhouse demands a septic tank to get rid of the waste. A septic tank is a scientific receptacle to take the poison out of sewerage. It is a simple affair consisting of two underground compartments, made water-tight, with a sewer pipe to lead the waste water from the house into the first compartment and a drain to carry the denatured sewerage away from the second compartment. The first compartment is open to the atmosphere, through a ventilator, but the second compartment is made as nearly air-tight as possible. The scientific working of a septic tank depends upon the destructive work of two kinds of microscopic life known as aerobic and anaerobic forms of bacteria. Sewerage in the first tank is worked over by aerobic bacteria, the kind that require a small amount of oxygen in order to live and carry on their work. The second compartment is inhabited by anaerobic bacteria, or forms of microscopic life that work practically without air. The principles of construction require that a septic tank shall be large enough to contain two days' supply of sewerage in each compartment; thus, requiring four days for the sewerage to enter and leave the tank.

Estimating 75 gallons daily of sewerage for each inhabitant of the house and four persons to a family, the septic tank should be large enough to hold 600 gallons, three hundred gallons in each compartment, which would require a tank about four feet in width and six feet in length and four feet in depth. These figures embrace more cubic feet of tank than necessary to meet the foregoing requirements. It is a good plan to leave a margin of safety.

It is usual to lay a vitrified sewer, four inches in diameter, from below the bottom of the cellar to the septic tank, giving it a fall of one-eighth inch in ten feet. The sewer enters the tank at the top of the standing liquid and delivers the fresh sewerage from the house through an elbow and a leg of pipe that reaches to within about six inches of the bottom of the tank. The reason for this is to admit fresh sewerage without disturbing the scum on the surface of the liquid in the tank. The scum is a protection for the bacteria. It helps them to carry on their work of destruction. The same principle applies to the second compartment. The liquid from the first compartment is carried over into the second compartment by means of a bent pipe in the form of a siphon which fills up gradually and empties automatically when the liquid in the first compartment rises to a certain level. The discharging siphon leg should be the shortest. The liquid from the second compartment is discharged into the drain in the same manner. There are special valves made for the final discharge, but they are not necessary. The bottom of the tank is dug deep enough to hold sewerage from two to four feet in depth. The top surface of the liquid in the tank is held down to a level of at least six inches below the bottom of the cellar. So there is no possible chance of the house sewer filling and backing up towards the house. Usually the vitrified sewer pipe is four inches in diameter, the septic tank siphons for a small tank are three inches in diameter and the final discharge pipe is three inches in diameter, with a rapid fall for the first ten feet after leaving the tank.

Septic tanks should be made of concrete, waterproofed on the inside to prevent the possibility of seepage. Septic tank tops are made of reinforced concrete with manhole openings. Also the manhole covers are made of reinforced concrete, either beveled to fit the openings or made considerably larger than the opening, so that they sit down flat on the top surface of the tank. These covers are always deep enough down in the ground so that when covered over the earth holds them in place.

In laying vitrified sewer it is absolutely necessary to calk each joint with okum or lead, or okum reinforced with cement. It is almost impossible to make a joint tight with cement alone, although it can be done by an expert. Each length of the sewer-pipe should be given a uniform grade. The vitrified sewer is trapped outside of the building with an ordinary S-trap ventilated, which leaves the sewer open to the atmosphere and prevents the possibility of back-pressure that might drive the poisonous gases from the decomposing sewerage through the sewer back into the house. In this way, the septic tank is made entirely separate from the house plumbing, except that the two systems are connected at this outside trap.

It is sometimes recommended that the waste water from the second compartment shall be distributed through a series of drains made with three-inch or four-inch drain tile and that the outlet of this set of drains shall empty into or connect with a regularly organized field drainage system. Generally speaking, the final discharge of liquid from a septic tank that is properly constructed is inoffensive and harmless. However, it is better to use every possible precaution to preserve the health of the family, and it is better to dispose of the final waste in such a way as to prevent any farm animal from drinking it.

While manholes are built into septic tanks for the purpose of examination, in practice they are seldom required. If the tanks are properly built and rightly proportioned to the sewerage requirements they will take care of the waste water from the house year after year without attention. Should any accidents occur, they are more likely to be caused by a leakage in the vitrified sewer than from any other cause. Manufacturers of plumbing supplies furnish the siphons together with instructions for placing them properly in the concrete walls. Some firms supply advertising matter from which to work out the actual size and proportions of the different compartments and all connections. The making of a septic tank is simple when the principle is once understood.

INDEX

PAGE

Acetylene gas 129 Air pressure pump 107 Anvil 33 Apple-picking bag 216 ladder 215 Asparagus knife 205 Auger, ship 26 Auger-bit 24, 25 Automatic hog feeder 219 Axles, wagon 52 Babbitting boxings 73 Barn trucks 226 Belt punch 211 work 146 Bench and vise 34 Bench for iron work 35 for woodworking 16 Bipod 206 Bits, extension boring 26 Bit, twist-drill, for wood-boring 25 Blacksmith hammers 61 shop 31 Block and tackle 77 Bobsleighs 188 Boiler, steam 90 Bolster spring 186 stake 187 Bolt cutter 45 Bolts, carriage and machine 56 emergency 53 home-made 52 plow and sickle bar 56 Boxings, babbitting 73 Brace, wagon-box 58 Bramble hook 20 Brass valves 236 Breeding crate for hogs 203 Brick trowel 209 Bridge auger 26 Bucket yoke 75 Buck rake 165 Building bracket 202 Bull nose-chain 233 treadmill 81 Cable hay stacker 176 California hay ricker 176 Calipers 43 Caliper rule 14 Canning outfit 229 Carpenter's bench 17 trestle 17 Cart, two-wheel 191 Centrifugal pumps 105 Chain, logging 50 Chisels and gouges 28 Circular saw, filing 69 jointing 68 setting 68 Clearing land by tractor 146 Clevises, plow 58 Clod crusher 155 Clothes line reel box, concrete 228 Clothes line tightener 230 Cold-chisel 37 Colt-breaking sulkey 192 Compasses 18 Concrete center alley for hog house 209 farm scale base and pit 196 hog wallow 209 wall mold 210 Conveniences, miscellaneous farm 194 Conveyances, farm 179 Corn crib, double 201 two-story 194 Corn cultivator 142 planter 158 shock horse 208 Cotter pin tool 44 Coulter clamp 54 Countersink 41 Cow stanchion 234 Crop machinery, special 161 Crops, kind of, to irrigate 118 Crowbars 46 Cultivator, combination 143 corn 142 Cutting nippers 46 Derrick fork 168 Dies and taps 55 Diggers, potato 205 Disk harrow 152 plow 137 Dog churn 79 power 80 Draw-filing 62 Drawing-knife 22 Drill, grain 160 power post 38 Drill-press 39 electric 40 Driven machines 100 Dumbwaiter 229 Economy of plowing by tractor 146 Electricity on the farm 121, 127 Electric lighting 123 Electric power plant 122 towel 231 Elevating machinery 133 Elevator, grain 134 Emery grinders 31 Engine and truck, portable 94 Engine, gasoline 91 kerosene 92 steam 90 Eveners for three- and four-horse teams 139 Extension boring bits 26 Farm conveniences 194 conveyances 179 office 194 shop and implement house 9 shop work 50 tractor 97 waterworks 89, 100 Feed crusher 131 Feeding racks 217 Fence-making tools 205, 206 Fence pliers 207 File handle 36 Files and rasps 36 Filing hand saw 56 roll 63 Flail 75 Fore-plane 27 Forge 32 Forges, portable 32 Forging iron and steel 59 Fruit picking 212 ladders 215 tray 213 Fruit-thinning nippers 214 Gambrel whiffletree 173 Garage 10 Garden weeder 54 Gas, acetylene 129 Gasoline engine 91 house lightning 128 Gate, sliding field 205 Gatepost with copper mailbox 227 Gauge, double-marking 22 Generating mechanical power 74 Goat stall 230 Grain drill 160 elevator 134 elevator, portable 135 Grass hook 163 Grindstone 28 Hacksaw 45 Hammers, blacksmith 61 machinist's 42 Hand axe 23 Hand saw 19, 65 filing 66 jointing 65 setting 65 using 67 Handspike 24 Hardy 43 Harness punch 211 Harrow cart 154 disk 152 sled 141 spike-tooth 141 Harvesting by tractor 146 Hay carrier carriage 172 Hay crop, handling 163 Hay derricks, Idaho 171 Western 169 Hayford, double harpoon 169 grapple 170 hitch 173 hood 197 Hayrake, revolving 163 Hay ricker, California 176 Hay rope pulleys 174 Hay skids 167 Hay sling 167 Hay stacker, cable 176 Haystack knife 168 Hay-tedder 165 Hay-track roof extension 197 Hoe, how to sharpen 70 wheel 162 Hoes and weeders 204 Hog catching hook 232 Hog feeder, automatic 219 trough 221 trough, reinforced 222 wallow, concrete 209 Hoist, oldest farm 133 Hoists 78 Home repair work, profitable 50 Horse clippers 231 Horse feeding rack 218 Horsepower 86 House plumbing 234 Husking-pin 208 Hydraulic ram 95 Idaho hay derricks 171 Implement shed 10 shed and work shop 12 Iron, forging 59 Irons for neckyoke and whiffletree 51 Iron roller 157 Iron working tools 42 Irrigation 112 by pumping 112 overhead spray 116 Jointer, carpenter's 27 Jointer plows 144 Jointing hand saw 65 Kerosene engine 92 Keyhole saw 20 Knife, asparagus 205 corn cutting 205 haystack 168 Knots 212 Lag screw 57 Land float 156 Level, carpenter's 24 iron stock 25 Lighting, gasoline 128 Linchpin farm wagons 185 Link, cold-shut 43 plow 58 Loading chute for hogs 235 Logging chain 50 Machines, driven 100 Machinist's hammers 42 vise 47 Manure carriers 233 Marline spike 212 Measuring mechanical work 14 Mechanical power, generating 74 Mechanics of plowing 138 Melting ladle 73 Monkey-wrench 19 Mule pump 84 Nail hammers 21 Nail set 37 Office, farm 194 Oilstone 15 Overhead spray irrigation 116 Oxen 181 Paint brushes 212 Pea guard 168 Picking fruit 212 Pig-pen, sanitary 210 Pincers 44 Pipe cutter 48 Pipe-fitting tools 46 Pipe vise 47 wrench 48 Plastering trowel 209 Pliers 18 Plow, heavy-breaking 224 riding 140 walking 138 Plowing by tractor 145 importance of 137 mechanics of 138 Plows, jointer 144 Scotch 143 Plumb-bob and plumb-line 206 Plumbing, house 234 Pod-bit 25 Portable farm engine 94 Post-hole diggers 204 Poultry feeding trough 222 Power conveyor 121 Power, generating mechanical 75 Power post drill 38 Power transmission 120 Pulverizers 155 Pump, air pressure 107 centrifugal 105 mule 84 jack 109 jacks and speed jacks 111 rotary 103 suction 101 Punches 37 Quantity of water to use in irrigation 118 Racks, feeding 217 sheep feeding 219 Rafter grapple 173 Rasp 35 Rasps and files 36 Ratchet-brace 40 Refrigeration 123 Reservoir for supplying water to farm buildings 120 Revolving hayrake 163 Riding plow 140 Ripsaw 21 Rivets 53 Rivet set 54 Road drag, split-log 220 steel 225 Road work 146 Roller 156 Roll filing 63 Roof pitches 200 truss 199 Root pulper 130 Rotary pumps 103 Round barn, economy of 196 Rule of six, eight and ten 199 Sand bands 187 caps 188 Sanitary pig-pen 210 Saw, hack 45 Scotch plows 143 Screwdriver 23 ratchet 24 Seed house trucks 226 Septic tank 235 Set-screws 64 Shave horse 18 Shears 217 Sheep feeding rack 219 Sheepshank 212 Ship auger 26 Shoeing horses 71 knife 34 tool box 34 Shop, garage and implement shed 10 Shop tools 14 Slaughter house 198 Sliding field gate 205 Snips, sheet metal 25 Soil auger 204 tools 202 Soil, working the 137 Speed indicator 201 jacks 111 Split-log road drag 220 Spud 205 Stable helps 232 Stall for milch goats 232 Steam boiler and engine 90 Steel, forging 59 road drag 225 square 22 tools, making 60 Stepladder 216 Stock for dies 55 Stone-boat 179 Stump puller 131 Suction pumps 101 Sulkey, colt-breaking 192 S wrenches 44 Tapeline 15 Taper reamer 41 tap 56 Taps and dies 55 Tempering steel tools 60 Tongs 43 Tool box for field use 72 handy 72 Tool rack, blacksmith 34 Tools for fence-making 205 for woodworking 19 for working iron 42 pipe-fitting 46 soil 202 Tractor economy 146 farm 97 transmission gear 98 used in plowing 145 uses for, on farm 146 Tram points 40 Travoy 183 Treadmill, bull 81 Tree pruners 216 Trowel, brick 209 plastering 209 Trucks, barn 226 Try-square 22 Twist-drills 25, 41 U bolt in cement 57 Uses of electricity on farm 126 Valves, brass 236 Vise 38 Wagon-box irons 57 Wagon brakes 186 seat spring 187 Walking plow 138 Water-power 88 Water storage 100 Waterworks, farm 100 Well sweep 76 Wheelbarrow 180 Wheel hoe 162 Winches 79 Windmills 83 Wire splice 52 splicer 44 stretcher 77 Wooden clamp 18 roller 157 Wood-saw frames 129 Woodworking bench 16 tools 19 Working the soil 137 Wrecking bar 24

_DRAKE'S MECHANICAL BOOKS_

---------------------------------------------------+-------+-------- *Title | Style | Price ---------------------------------------------------+-------+--------

=Electrical Books=

Electrical Tables and Engineering Data *Lea. $1.50 Electrical Tables and Engineering Data *Cloth 1.00 Motion Picture Operation *Lea. 1.50 Motion Picture Operation *Cloth 1.00 Alternating Current Lea. 1.50 Alternating Current Cloth 1.00 Wiring Diagrams and Descriptions *Lea. 1.50 Wiring Diagrams and Descriptions *Cloth 1.00 Armature and Magnet Winding *Lea. 1.50 Armature and Magnet Winding *Cloth 1.00 Modern Electric Illumination *Lea. 1.50 Modern Electric Illumination *Cloth 1.00 Modern Electrical Construction *Lea. 1.50 Modern Electrical Construction *Cloth 1.00 Electricians' Operating and Testing Manual *Lea. 1.50 Electricians' Operating and Testing Manual *Cloth 1.00 Drake's Electrical Dictionary Lea. 1.50 Drake's Electrical Dictionary Cloth 1.00 Electric Motors, Direct and Alternating *Lea. 1.50 Electric Motors, Direct and Alternating *Cloth 1.00 Electrical Measurements and Meter Testing Lea. 1.50 Electrical Measurements and Meter Testing Cloth 1.00 Drake's Telephone Handbook Lea. 1.50 Drake's Telephone Handbook Cloth 1.00 Elementary Electricity, Up-to-Date *Cloth 1.25 Electricity Made Simple *Cloth 1.00 Easy Electrical Experiments *Cloth 1.00 Wireless Telegraph and Telephone Handbook Cloth 1.00 Telegraphy, Self-taught Cloth 1.00 Dynamo-Electric Machines Cloth 1.50 Electro-Plating Handbook Lea. 1.50 Electro-Plating Handbook Cloth 1.00 Modern American Telephony Lea. 2.00 Handy Vest-Pocket Electrical Dictionary Lea. .50 Handy Vest-Pocket Electrical Dictionary Cloth .25 Storage Batteries Cloth .50 Elevators--Hydraulic and Electric Cloth 1.00 How to Become a Successful Motorman Lea. 1.50 Motorman's Practical Air Brake Instructor Lea. 1.50 Electric Railway Troubles Cloth 1.50 Electric Power Stations Cloth 2.50 Electrical Railroading Lea. 3.50