Chapter 33

Tuesday, 21st October, South of the Centre. About sunrise started for Anna Reservoir, and at 5.30 p.m. arrived there, completely exhausted. Wind, variable. Heavy clouds from the south-east.

Wednesday, 22nd October, Anna Reservoir. Last night I was so completely overcome by fatigue and exhaustion that I had no sleep during the whole of the night, which makes me feel very ill indeed this morning. I shall be obliged to remain here to-day and to-morrow, to see if that will recruit my strength and enable me to perform the long journeys to the McDonnell range. About twelve o'clock heavy thundery weather to the west and south.

Saturday, 23rd October, Anna Reservoir. I shall rest to-day and have what shoes there are left put on the horses. I, with William Auld, will proceed to-morrow about ten miles in advance, to divide the long journey into two, for I have not strength to do it in one day. Wind variable.

Friday, 24th October, Anna Reservoir. Started early, taking with me Thring, King, and Auld, with one pack-horse to carry my tent, water, etc. Proceeded through the thick mulga scrub, and at ten miles camped, which I find is quite as much as I am able to do. Had my tent put up, and myself carried into it. Sent Thring and King back with the horses to the Reservoir, keeping Auld with me. The party will start from the Reservoir early to-morrow morning, pick me up, and proceed to Mount Harris. Wind, east.

Saturday, 25th October, Mulga Scrub South of Anna Reservoir. A few minutes before ten o'clock a.m. the party arrived all right. I was soon ready and lifted up into the saddle, and started at 10.10. During the day it has been excessively hot. At 5.45 p.m. arrived at Mount Harris, being nearly eight hours in the saddle, which is far more than I am able to endure in my terribly weak state. It is between my shoulder-blades and the small of my back that I am so much affected while riding. When the pain from them becomes unbearable I endeavour to get on as far as I can by supporting my weight upon my arms until they give way. I arrived here in a state of utmost exhaustion; so much so that I was quite unable to eat a single mouthful of anything. After we had the horses unpacked, a few natives made their appearance on the side of the mount, calling out something and pointing to the north-east. Sent Thring and King to see if they could make anything of them, but they soon ran down the other side of the mount, and, when seen again, were marching off in the direction they had pointed out. They had taken good care before leaving to use nearly all the water in the crevices of the granite rocks; they left about a quart. Finding it quite impossible to remain so long in the saddle as I have done to-day, I got Mr. Kekwick and some of the others to construct a stretcher during the night, which I hope will enable me to do a long journey to-morrow. Wind, south-east.

Sunday, 26th October, Mount Harris. Had the stretcher placed between two horses. Had great difficulty before we could get two that would allow it to be passed between them. At last succeeded in getting two that we thought would do very well, as they seemed to go very quietly with it. I shall continue on horseback until I find that I have got enough of it. Started a little after sunrise. I found I could continue two hours and a half in the saddle without fatiguing myself too much. Having done this, I sent to the rear of the party for the stretcher, when, to my great disappointment and vexation, I found that a short time before something had annoyed one of the horses, which set to and kicked it all to pieces, which is a great misfortune. I continued in the saddle, and proceeded until I was exhausted, which happened at the end of fifteen miles, when I was compelled to stop. Keeping Auld with me, and some water, I sent on the party and all the horses to Mount Hay. If they find water they are to camp and return for me to-morrow; if not, they are to push on to the Hamilton Spring; if that is gone, they will have to cross the range to Brinkley Bluff. I find myself getting weaker and weaker every day. I am very ill indeed. Wind, south-east.

Monday, 27th October, Hills North of Mount Hay. About 11.30 a.m. King and Nash returned for me. Thring had found water in one of the gullies, but the approach to it was very rough and stony indeed. Thring had gone to see if there was any water in the clay-pans that I had camped at on my journey up, and if there is, will take the party over there, and will send one of the men to meet me and inform me of it. The distance from here to the water is ten miles. Had the horses saddled; mounted, and proceeded towards it. At the end of two hours the motion of the horse became so dreadful to me, and the pain I was suffering from was such as no language can describe; but I still continued in the saddle, and, within a mile and a half of the water, met Frew, whom Thring had sent to say that he had found plenty of water in the clay-pans, with green grass, and that the party had moved on to it. Distance from where we were then to the clay-pans, six miles further. I could no more sit in the saddle that distance than I could fly; I am now already completely exhausted, and have still a mile and a half to ride before I can reach the other water. To that I must go, and see what a night's rest will do in the morning. While taking a drink of water, I was seized with a violent fit of vomiting blood and mucus, which lasted about five minutes, and nearly killed me. Sent Frew on to the party. Went on the best way I could with the other three to the water. Arrived there feeling worse than I have ever done before. I have told King and Nash to remain with me in case of my dying during the night, as it would be lonely for one young man to be here by himself. Wind, south-east.

Tuesday, 28th October, Mount Hay. Started in the cool of the morning, and in two hours reached where the party were camped, so much exhausted and so completely done up that I could not speak a word--the power of speech has completely left me. I was lifted from the saddle and placed under the shade of a mulga bush. In about ten minutes I recovered my speech. I find that I can no longer sit on horseback; gave orders for some of the party to make a sort of reclining seat, to be carried between two horses, one before the other; also gave orders that a horse was to be shot at sundown, as we are getting rather short of meat, and I hope the change of beef tea made from fresh meat will give me some increase of strength, for I am now reduced to a perfect skeleton, a mere shadow. At sundown had the horse shot; fresh meat to the party is now a great treat. I am denied participating in that pleasure, from the dreadful state in which my mouth still is. I can chew nothing, and all that I have been living on is a little beef tea, and a little boiled flour, which I am obliged to swallow. To-night I feel very ill, and very, very low indeed. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds.

Wednesday, 29th October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. This morning I feel a little relieved in comparison with my exhausted state of yesterday. I had a very troubled night's rest. All hands cutting up the horse, and hanging up the meat to dry. Thring and Nash out for two long poles to fix the chair in, which they succeeded in finding. At twelve o'clock had all the meat of the horse cut up and hung up to dry. Day oppressively hot. Wind, south-east. Clouds.

Thursday, 30th October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. I think I am a little better this morning, but still very weak and helpless. Find that the chair will not answer the purpose, and must have a stretcher instead. Wind, south-east.

Friday, 31st October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. I felt a little improvement this morning, which I hope will continue; and I think I have reached the turn of this terrible disease. On Tuesday night I certainly was in the grasp of death; a cold clammy perspiration, with a tremulous motion, kept creeping slowly over my body during the night, and everything near me had the smell of decaying mortality in the last stage of decomposition and of the grave. I sincerely thank the Almighty Giver of all Good, that He, in His infinite goodness and mercy, gave me strength and courage to overcome the grim and hoary-headed king of terrors, and has kindly permitted me yet to live a little longer in this world. Auld, who was in attendance upon me on that night, informed me that my breath smelt the same as the atmosphere of a room in which a dead body had been kept for some days. What a sad difference there is from what I am now and what I was when the party left North Adelaide! My right hand nearly useless to me by the accident from the horse; total blindness after sunset--although the moon shines bright to others, to me it is total darkness--and nearly blind during the day; my limbs so weak and painful that I am obliged to be carried about; my body reduced to that of a living skeleton, and my strength that of infantine weakness --a sad, sad wreck of former days. Wind variable.

Saturday, 1st November, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. Although in such a weak state, I shall try if I can ride in the stretcher as far as Hamilton Springs. Started early; found the stretcher to answer very well. On arriving at the springs, saw that there was not sufficient water for the horses, and, as I had stood this part of the journey so well, made up my mind to cross the range to Brinkley Bluff. Proceeded, and arrived there about five o'clock p.m. I have stood the long journey far better than I expected, but feel very tired and worn out. Wind variable. Cloudy.

Sunday, 2nd November, Brinkley Bluff, The Hugh. Got a few hours' good sleep during the night, and feel a good deal better this morning. Day still cloudy. Wind variable.

Monday, 3rd November, Brinkley Bluff, The Hugh. Started at 7.30 a.m. for Owen Springs. Saw where one of the horses died that I was compelled to leave behind on coming up. As there is only the hair of his mane and tail to be seen, and not a single bone, I am inclined to think that he has been killed, carried off, and eaten by the natives. I expect the other one has shared the same fate. At 2.20 p.m. arrived at the springs. Plenty of water. I have stood the journey very well, but am very tired. Wind, south-east.

Tuesday, 4th November, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Started at 7.20 a.m., passing through the gorge of the Waterhouse range. At 1.20 arrived at the springs under the conglomerate rock, a mile and a half north-east of the gorge in James range. I feel the shaking of the stretcher very much, and am again very tired, but am glad to find that I am getting a little stronger. Wind, south-east. The clouds are all gone.

Wednesday, 5th November, Spring, Conglomerate Rock, The Hugh. Started at 7.25 a.m. Passed through the gorge of James range and proceeded to the side creek in which water was obtained on coming up. Found some still there. Camped. Sent four of the party to clear out the hole; in the meantime sent Thring up the side creek to see if there is any surface water left from the showers of rain that have fallen here some short time ago. Since leaving the McDonnell range we have had plenty of green grass, showing that rain has fallen some time back; it has made no impression upon the large creek, which is quite dry. In a short time Thring returned; he has seen as much as will do for forty horses to-night, which is a good thing. Sent him up with them, and watered the remainder at this hole, into which the water comes very slowly, in consequence of the main creek having none in its bed below the sand. I again feel tired from the shaking of the horses and the stretcher. The swelling of my gums and the black blisters, which have been so very painful for such a long time back, are slowly giving way before some vegetable food which I have been able to get since coming into the green, grassy country; I hope it will soon cure me. My teeth are still loose, but it is a great thing to get a little relief from a great mouthful of swollen, blistered, and most painful gums. When my mouth was closed I had scarcely room for my tongue; the blisters are now much reduced. Wind, south-east.

Thursday, 6th November, The Hugh. Started at 7.20 towards the Finke; at five p.m. met with some water in a clay-pan, and camped. I am a little stronger to-day, and feel that I am gradually improving. Wind, south-east. Night and morning cool.

Friday, 7th November, North of the Finke. Proceeded to Pascoe Springs in the Finke; found plenty of water and camped. Day oppressively hot. Wind, south-east.

Saturday, 8th November, Pascoe Springs, The Finke. Proceeded to Sullivan Creek and found sufficient water to do for us until Monday morning, and this being a place for feed for the horses, I shall remain here until that time. I feel very tired and sore after this rough week's work, and am glad of a day's rest. I feel a gradual improvement in my health and strength, which I hope will continue to increase. Wind variable, mostly from south-east.

Sunday, 9th November, Sullivan Creek. During the night had a few drops of rain; heavy clouds to the west, north-west, north, north-east, and east. Wind blowing strong and variable. Sundown: the sky overcast with heavy clouds.

Monday, 10th November, Sullivan Creek. Some of the horses missing this morning. Did not get a start till nine o'clock a.m. Day oppressively hot. Crossed the Finke three times, and arrived at Polly Springs, where there is plenty of water. Camped. Wind, south-east.

Tuesday, 11th November, Polly Springs, The Finke. Proceeded to Marchant Springs. Camped. The water is low and rather boggy. Dug a place about eighteen inches deep in the firm ground, and the water came boiling up. I am happy to find that I am gaining a little strength again. I was able to walk two or three steps by leaning upon two of the party, but the pain was very severe. Wind, south-east; a few clouds about.

Wednesday, 12th November, Marchant Springs, The Finke. As I am not certain of water at the next two camps, I will rest the horses as well as myself here to-day, for we both require it very much; it will enable them to stand a long push if required. A number of showers of rain seem to have fallen here this month. Wind, south-east.

Thursday, 13th November, Marchant Springs, The Finke. Started at 7.40. Proceeded towards the Goyder, and at nine miles found myself in as dry a country as ever; not a drop of rain seems to have fallen here for upwards of twelve months. On arriving at the Goyder found a little moisture at the bottom of the sand in the rocks--not enough for the horses. Pushed on towards the Coglin, and at dark camped in the mulga scrub without water. Day most oppressively hot. Light wind from south-east.

Friday, 14th November, Mulga Scrub. Started at six o'clock a.m. Examined the different creeks in which I found water on my journey to the north but there was not a drop. At twelve miles reached the Coglin--none there. Country all in the same dry state. Proceeded on to the Lindsay, where I am sure of water. At four o'clock arrived there and found plenty. Camped. Thanks be to God, I am once more within the boundary of South Australia! I little expected it about a fortnight ago. If the summer rain has fallen to the south of this, there will be little difficulty in my getting down. I am again suffering very much from exhaustion, caused by a severe attack of dysentery, which has thrown me back a good deal in the strength I was collecting so quickly, but I hope it will not continue long. Wind, south-east.

Saturday, 15th November, The Lindsay. At day-break I have sent Thring to the Stevenson to see if there is water there, either on the surface or by digging in the sand; if there is I shall move the party over there to-day, and on Monday morning start for the Hamilton (I expect no water between); and if not, I shall remain here till that time and push for the Hamilton. About ten o'clock a.m. he returned and reported no water, only a little moisture on the top of the clay beneath the sand. Day very hot. I still continue to be very unwell. Wind, south-east.

Sunday, 16th November, The Lindsay. Day oppressively hot. Light winds, south-east.

Monday, 17th November, The Lindsay. Started soon after sunrise, crossed the Stevenson and the Ross; both quite dry. Proceeded across Bagot range to the gum water-hole; that is also dry. Found a little rain water in one of the small creeks, but not enough for all the horses. The day being excessively hot, the journey very rough and stony, and many of them lame from want of shoes, also it being near sundown, and there being a little green grass about, I have camped. Wind variable.

Tuesday, 18th November, The Gums, Bagot Range. Started at 5.40 a.m. to the large waterhole in the Hamilton; in about a mile found some rain water, which I allowed the horses to drink. At 10 a.m. arrived at the large water-hole, and found it very low indeed; a great number of dead fish all round it. This must certainly be a very unprecedentedly dry season indeed; this water-hole does not seem to have received any water for the last two years. The water being old and stagnant, I am afraid will make us ill; we have all already been suffering much from stagnant waters we have been compelled to use. I, however, must give the horses a day's rest to enable them to make the next and last push, nearly a hundred miles, to the first springs. From the dryness of the season, I scarcely expect to find water before I reach them, which will be a severe trial for the horses, the weather being so extremely hot. I am still suffering very much from the effect of the stagnant waters; they have sent me back again nearly to my former state of weakness, and have assisted in checking my recovery from the scurvy, which is now again gaining ground upon me since I lost the vegetable food. The country being now so dry, there having been no late rain, there is not a blade of grass to be seen. Hot wind from the north. This is the first and only hot wind I have felt during the whole journey from Mount Margaret to the sea-coast, and back to this place. In the afternoon the sky became overcast with heavy clouds. At sundown the wind changed to west, and blew very strong till eleven o'clock p.m.; we then had a few drops of rain, but not enough to moisten the surface of the ground; after this it became calm, the clouds broken, and there was no more of it.

Wednesday, 19th November, The Hamilton. This morning still cloudy, but excessively close and hot. I am glad that I resolved to remain here to-day, for the poor horses would have felt it very much travelling over the high and heavy sand hills that we have to go over in the first day's journey. In the afternoon the sky again became overcast with heavy clouds, and there was a great deal of thunder and lightning to the west and north, and again, at the same time as last night, we were favoured with a few drops of rain; the result the same as it was then. Wind variable and squally.

Thursday, 20th November, The Hamilton. This morning the clouds have cleared away, but there is a nice cool strong breeze from the south-east and east--a fine thing for the horses crossing the heavy sand hills. Started at six o'clock a.m. Got over them very well, and reached the mulga plain. About twelve the wind ceased, and it became very hot. In the afternoon one of the horses (Trussell) began to show symptoms of being very ill. One of the party was riding him at the time. I had him changed immediately and allowed him to run loose, but he seemed to have lost all spirit and soon dropped behind. I then had him led and driven for upwards of two miles until I reached the Frew or Upper Neale. The dreadfully dry state of the country since leaving the sand hills--it being completely parched up--leaving me no hope of getting water until I reached the gap in Hanson range or the Freeling Springs, and it being quite impossible for us to drag him on there, I was compelled to abandon him, as it would only knock up the other horses to drive him on. Proceeded through a still parched-up country to the large dry lagoon, and at dark camped without water. Wind, south-east.

Friday, 21st November, Large Dry Lagoon. Started at break of day through some low sand hills, with valleys and clay-pans, all dry. At a little more than six miles after starting, I was rather surprised to find recent tracks of horses that had been feeding on and about our tracks. Thinking it might be a party out looking for us, as I have now been some time longer than I anticipated at starting, I sent Thring to examine and see how many horses there were. In about half an hour he returned, and said that he could only make out two, and those I immediately concluded were two of the horses that had given in near this place on my journey to the north. Proceeded on to the camp where I had buried the two hundred pounds of sugar, frequently meeting their tracks, apparently in search of water. Arrived at the camp, but there is not a drop there, and no appearance of the two horses, but only their tracks in the bed of the creek, following it down to the eastward, where there must be permanent water that has supplied them during the past year. A thunder-shower must have brought them out to visit the spot where they were first left. I should have liked very much to have regained them, but the dry state of the country and the want of water will not allow me to look for them. Found that the things buried had been disturbed, and most of them carried away by the natives--the others all destroyed--the sugar all gone, except about five pounds, which was left in the hole and covered up. Proceeded, crossing side branches of the Neale, but not a drop of water in any of them--everything dried up. Went on towards the gap in Hanson range. At about eight miles before reaching it, Frew's horse (Holland) knocked up with him; he could not get him on a step further, and had to leave him. On reaching the Lindsay, this horse had been allowed by Frew to drink too much water, and had not recovered from the effects of it. At dark arrived at the gap, and found plenty of water, for which I am very thankful, for there are many of the horses that would not have stood another day's journey without it. Day exceedingly hot. Wind, south-east.

Saturday, 22nd November, Gap in Hanson Range. Resting horses, etc. Sent Frew in search of his horse shortly after sunrise. About half-past two he returned, and reports that he cannot be found; that he had searched round about the creeks and gullies where he had been left, but could find nothing of him, and the country was too stony to track him. Day again very hot.

Sunday, 23rd November, Gap in Hanson Range. Started at six o'clock a.m., intending to get to Freeling Springs, but one of the horses that had eaten poison about the Roper country, and has never recovered from it, but was always very poor, and of no use whatever, knocked up, and would not move a step further; being only six miles from where we started, we left him and proceeded on our journey. About this time the wind changed to the north, and it came on to blow a fierce hot wind, and by the middle of the day it was almost unbearable. Two more of the horses knocked up, and being nearly opposite the McEllister Springs, I turned to them and camped. These springs required to be dug out before we could get water enough for all the horses. After opening two of them, we found them to yield a sufficient supply. Still continuing to blow a terrific hot wind from the north. A little before sundown it changed, and came on to blow from the south, and blew the hot wind back again. For three hours it was as hot as when coming from the north.