Part 7
Monday, 30th May, Davenport Creek. Started at sunrise determined to follow down the creek, for I think there must be water somewhere before it enters the plain. The flow is to the east. At five miles came upon a beautiful spring in the bed of the creek, for which I am truly thankful. I have named this The Spring of Hope. It is a little brackish, not from salt, but soda, and runs a good stream of water. I have lived upon far worse water than this: to me it is of the utmost importance, and keeps my retreat open. I can go from here to Adelaide at any time of the year, and in any sort of season. Camped for the rest of the day. Latitude, 28 degrees 33 minutes 34 seconds.
Tuesday, 31st May, The Spring of Hope. Shoeing horses, and repairing various things.
Wednesday, 1st June, The Spring of Hope. Not being satisfied with my hurried view of the salt clay-pan that I visited on the 25th ultimo, I have sent Muller to-day to examine it for springs, before I proceed to the north-west. On a further examination of this water, I find a very large portion of magnesia in it, and also salt, but very little. Muller has returned, having been down the creek, and, as I expected, has found a small spring of very good water on the banks of the salt creek. I expect there will be others. I shall move down there to-morrow and examine it. I expect we have fallen upon the line of springs again, which I hope will continue towards the north. No rain seems to have fallen here for a long time.
Thursday, 2nd June, The Spring of Hope. Started at 9 o'clock for the springs, and arrived there in the afternoon. Travelled over a stony but very good feeding country, which became better as we approached the springs. There is a creek with a large water hole, and around the small hills are numerous springs. On the banks of the creek and round the springs an immense quantity of rushes, bulrushes, and other water-plants are growing. The quantity of land they cover is very great, amounting to several square miles. Some of the springs are choked up, others are running, though not so active as those further to the south. Round about them there is a thin crust of saltpetre, magnesia, and salt. The water of these springs is very good, but that of the creek is a little brackish, but will do very well for cattle. Some of the holes in the creek are rather salt. There is enough of good water for the largest station in the colony. Round the small hill, where I am now camped, there are twelve springs, and the water is first-rate. I have named them Hawker Springs, after G.C. Hawker, Esquire, M.L.A.* (* Now the Honourable G.C. Hawker, Speaker of the House of Assembly at Adelaide.) The hills are composed of slate, mica, quartz (resembling those of the gold country), and ironstone. Latitude, 28 degrees 24 minutes 17 seconds. One of the horses seems to be very unwell to-day; he has endeavoured to lie down two or three times during the journey, but I hope he will be better by the morning.
Friday, 3rd June, Hawker Springs. I find that the horse is too unwell to proceed. I shall give him another day, for fear I should lose him altogether. I sent Muller to see if there are any springs round the hill about six miles to the east. He states that the creek flows past that hill, and on towards other hills of the same kind. The springs continue to within half a mile of the hill, where he found two large springs running over, covered with long reeds. I do not doubt but that they still continue on towards the lake, (wherever that may be), which I intend to examine on my return.
Saturday, 4th June, Hawker Springs. This morning the horse does not look much better, but still I must push on. Started at 8 towards the highest point of the next range. At one mile struck a gum creek coming from the Davenport range, and running to the north of east; the bed sandy and grassy. At four miles another gum creek of the same description, with the gum-trees stunted. At eight miles and a half struck three creeks joining at about a quarter of a mile to the east; the centre one is gum, and the other two myall. At twelve miles changed my course to 29 degrees to examine three dark-coloured hills, where I think there will be springs. At a mile and a quarter came upon a small batch of springs round the north side of the hills in a broad grassy valley, with plenty of good water. Changed my course again to 318 degrees towards the highest point of the range. At one mile a myall and gum creek; at three miles another gum creek; at seven miles a very large and broad gum creek, spread out into numerous channels. I have not the least doubt but there is water above and below, judging from the number of tracks of natives and emus that have been up and down the creek. As this is the largest creek that I have passed, and is likely to become as good as Chambers Creek, which it very much resembles, I have called it The Blyth, after the Honourable Arthur Blyth. I have named the range to the east The Hanson Range, after the Honourable R.D. Hanson. At nine miles and a half attained the highest point of the range, and built a cone of stones thereon, and have named it Mount Younghusband, after the Honourable William Younghusband. From it I had a good view of the surrounding country, which seems to be plentifully supplied with springs. To the north-west is another isolated range like this; I should think it is about seven hundred feet high. I have named it Mount Kingston, after the Honourable G.S. Kingston, Speaker of the House of Assembly. To the north the broken ranges continue, and in the distance there is a long flat-topped range, broken in some places. It seems to be closing upon my course on the last bearing. I cannot judge of the distance, the mirage being so great. Descended from the mount, and proceeded on a bearing of 336 degrees towards a spring that I saw from the top. As we were rounding the mount to the east, we found eight springs before we halted, in a distance of three miles; some were running, and others were choked up, but soft and boggy. At dark arrived at another batch of springs--not those that I intended going to--they are on the banks of a small creek, close to and coming from the range; they are not so active as the others, and taste a little brackish; they are coated with soda, saltpetre, and salt. The horse seems to be very ill; he has again attempted to lie down two or three times. I cannot imagine what is the matter with him.
Sunday, 5th June, Mount Younghusband. I must remain where I am to-day; the horse is so bad that he cannot proceed; he neither eats nor drinks. I have sent Muller to the west side of the mount to see the extent of the springs; they are on the banks of a creek which has brackish water in it, large and deep, and a great quantity of rushes. The water comes from the limestone banks which are covered with soda. He rode round the mount: it is all the same, and the feed is splendid right to the top of the mount. It is a wonderful country, scarcely to be believed. I have had one of the springs opened to-day, and the water to-night tastes excellent; it could not be better. Native tracks about; I am surprised we see none of them; we are passing old fires constantly. Latitude, 28 degrees 1 minute 32 seconds.
Monday, 6th June, Mount Younghusband. The horses being some distance off, and my horse requiring a shoe, I was unable to make a start until 10 o'clock, on a bearing of 307 degrees 45 minutes, passing Mount Kingston on the south-west side. At three-quarters of a mile came upon the springs that I intended to have camped at on Saturday night: they are flowing in a stream strong enough to supply any number of cattle. I named them The Barrow Springs, after J.U. Barrow, Esquire, M.L.A. At four miles and a half struck a large broad valley, in which are the largest springs I have yet seen. The flow of water from them is immense, coming in numerous streams, and the country around is beautiful. I have named these The Freeling Springs, after the Honourable Major Freeling, M.L.C. After leaving the springs I ascended a rough stony hill, to have a view of them, but I could not see them all, their extent is so great. They extend to under the Kingston range, and how much further I do not know. From this point I changed my course to 322 degrees. I can just see the top of a distant range, for which I will go on that bearing. At one mile and a half crossed a broad gum salt creek, coming from the west, with a quantity of salt water in it. I have named this Peake Creek, after C.J. Peake, Esquire, M.L.A. After crossing this, we travelled over low rises with quartz, ironstone, and slate; the quartz predominating. Herrgott and Muller, who have both been long in the Victoria gold diggings, say that they have not seen any place that resembles those diggings so much as this does. The country seems as if it were covered with snow, from the quantity of quartz. At eleven miles passed a brackish water creek and salt lagoon; searched for springs but could find none, although reeds and rushes abound, but no water on the surface. I thence proceeded three-quarters of a mile, and struck a gum creek with a number of channels and very long water holes, but the water is brackish; it might do for cattle. This I have named The Neale, after J.B. Neale, Esquire, M.L.A. I think by following it down, there will be a large quantity of water, and good, and that it will become a very important creek. No person could wish for a better country for feed than that we have passed over to-day; it resembles the country about Chambers Creek.
Tuesday, 7th June, The Neale. At 8 o'clock started on a bearing of 180 degrees for the northernmost of the isolated hills, to see if there are springs round it. At four miles ascended it, but could see no springs. This I have named Mount Harvey, after J. Harvey, Esquire, M.L.A. from Mount Kingston it bears 47 degrees 45 minutes. Thence I started for the other mount, which I have named Mount Dutton, after the Honourable F.T. Dutton; four miles and a half to the top. The Hanson range is closing upon my course, and I think to-morrow's journey will cut it. On the north side are a few springs, some of them a little brackish, and some very good. We cleared out one, and found it very good. Here I camped for the night. From south-west to north-west it seems to be an immense plain, stony on the surface, with salt bush and grass. Mount Dutton is well grassed to the top; it is composed of the same rock as the others.
Wednesday, 8th June, Mount Dutton. at 9.15 started on a course of 310 degrees. At three-quarters of a mile passed another batch of springs, some of them brackish, and some very good indeed. Leaving them we passed over a good feeding country, crossing several gum and myall creeks, one with polyganum, all coming from Hanson range and flowing into the Neale. At nine miles crossed the top of Hanson range. From it I could see, about fifteen miles to the west of north, a high point of this range, which I have named Mount O'Halloran (after the Honourable Major O'Halloran), on the west side of which there appears to be a large creek coming from the north-west. We then proceeded on a course of 324 degrees towards Mount O'Halloran. At four miles and a half struck a large gum creek coming from the range and running for about four miles north-west on our course; examined it for water, but found none. It divides itself into numerous channels, and when full must retain a large quantity of water for a long time. The gum-trees are large and numerous, and numbers of pigeons frequent its banks. At a mile further came upon some rain water in a stony flat, where we camped for the night between low sand rises covered with grass.
Thursday, 9th June, Stony Flat. This country must be examined today for springs. I have therefore sent Muller down the creek to search that, whilst I must remain and get an observation of the sun. My party is far too small to examine the country well. I cannot go myself and leave the camp with the provisions to one man; the natives might attack him, and destroy the lot, there seem to be a great many tracks about. Three o'clock. Muller has returned; he has run the creek down until it joined another very large gum creek coming from the north-west--the one that I saw from the top of the range. The gum-trees were large; from one of them the natives had cut a large sheet of bark, evidently for a canoe. He also saw two large water holes, one hundred yards wide and a quarter of a mile long, with very high and steep banks. It seems to be the same creek as the Neale. Can it be Cooper's Creek? the country very much resembles it. My course will strike it more to the north-west to-morrow.
Friday, 10th June, Same Place. I have been very unwell during the night with cramp in the stomach, but hope I shall get better as I go on. Started at 8 o'clock on a bearing of 32 degrees 4 minutes. At four miles went to the top of Mount O'Halloran. The creek is about three miles to the west; it breaks through the Hanson range. Changed my course to 317 degrees to get away from the stones, which are very rough close to the hill. At six miles changed my course to 270 degrees to examine an isolated hill for springs, but found none. The creek winds round this hill, and spreads out into numerous channels, covering a space of two miles; but there is no water here, nor for three miles further up the creek. We have, however, found some rain water; and, as I feel so unwell that I am unable to ride, I have camped here for the night, and sent Muller to examine the creek for water. He has been unsuccessful.
Saturday, 11th June, Rain Water. I feel a little better this morning. Started at 9.20 on a bearing of 317 degrees. Crossed the creek, which is about a mile wide. For five miles it ran parallel to my course, and then turned more to the west. There is a beautiful plain along the bank, about three miles wide, and completely covered with grass. At nine miles and a half, on a small rise, changed my course to 318 degrees 30 minutes, to a distant hill. Travelled for nine miles and a half over another large and well-grassed plain of the same description; thence over some low stony hills to a myall flat, the soil beautiful, of a red colour, covered with grass; after four miles it became sandy. Camped for the night, after having gone thirty-one miles. The country of to-day surpasses all that I have yet travelled over for the abundance of feed. We have passed a number of native tracks, but only one or two are fresh. We have found no water to-day, except some little rain water, which is nearly all mud. I have no doubt but there is plenty towards the east.
Sunday, 12th June, Myall Flat. I feel still very unwell. We are now come to our last set of shoes for the horses, and, having experienced the misery of being without them in my previous journey, I am, though with great reluctance, forced to turn back. My party is also too small to make a proper examination of such splendid country. Started back, keeping more to the east to examine a high hill in search of water. If I can find water, I shall endeavour to reach the north boundary. At 11.40 arrived at the hill. Latitude, 27 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds. Can see no appearance of water, although the country seems good all round. Ten degrees to the east of north is a large dark-coloured hill, which I saw from last night's camp, from fifteen to twenty miles distant. I should like to go to it, but can find no water. I have named it Mount Browne, after Mr. J.H. Browne, of Port Gawler, my companion in Captain Sturt's expedition. I dare not risk the horses another night without water, the grass is so very dry; had there been green grass, I would not have hesitated a moment. Turned towards the Neale by a different course to try and find water; was unsuccessful until within an hour of sundown, when we struck some muddy water. As I expected, the horses were very thirsty and devoured the lot. Reached the creek after dark.
Monday, 13th June, The Neale. Found some rain water on the bank of the creek, and, two of the horses requiring shoes, I stopped for the day. At noon sent Muller up the creek to see if he could find any water holes, but he saw none. At six miles another creek coming from the south-west joins this. I am afraid I shall not have enough shoes to carry me into the settled districts. The creek does not seem to have been running for a number of years. The water has, some time or other, been ten feet high. The breadth of the plain where the channels flow is a mile and a half, and the quantity of water must be immense. It drains a very large extent of country. After examining the country during the next two or three days, I shall endeavour to follow this creek down, and learn where it empties itself.
Tuesday, 14th June, The Neale. Started at 9 o'clock. Running the creek down. At eight miles crossed another branch of the creek coming from the south of west. We found no water. At twelve miles changed my bearing to south. At three miles and a half camped at the two water holes that Muller found when I sent him to examine the creek on the 9th instant. I can not with certainty say they are permanent, there are neither reeds nor rushes round them; they are very large and very deep, and, when filled with rain, must hold a large quantity of water for a long time. There are ducks upon them. The water does not taste like rain water, which leads me to think that it may be permanent and supplied by springs from below.
Wednesday, 15th June, Water Holes found by Muller on the 9th. Started at 9.15 a.m. Following the creek down. As we approached Hanson range, where it broke through, we came upon two nice water holes with ducks upon them. They are long, wide, and deep, with clay banks, and about three feet of water in the middle. There are no reeds nor rushes round them, and it is doubtful whether they are permanent. At seven miles and a half the creek winds a little more to the west. Shortly afterwards we struck (in the gap) two very long and large water holes a quarter of a mile long, and between forty and fifty yards wide, and very deep. These I may safely say are permanent. After getting through the range, the creek spreads out over a large plain in numerous courses, bearing towards the south-east. At four miles and a half changed my course. At six miles, going more to the east, changed again, and at eight miles camped for the night, without water. We have found no water since leaving the last water hole, although I do not doubt of there being some. It would have taken us too long a time to examine it more than I have done, my party being so small. We have passed several winter worleys of the natives, built with mud in the shape of a large beehive, with a small hole as the entrance. Numerous tracks all about the creek, but we see no natives. We are now approaching the spring country again.
Thursday, 16th June, The Neale. Started at 11.15. Still following the creek, which continues to spread widely over the plain. At five miles I observed some white patches of ground on the south-west side of Mount Dutton, resembling a batch of springs. I changed my course and steered for them, crossing the Neale at two miles and three-quarters. On the south-west side of the Neale the country is rather stony, and for about a mile from it the feed is not very good, in consequence of its being subject to inundation, but beyond that the feed is beautiful. At three miles and a half made the white patches, and found them to be springs covering a large extent of country, but not so active as those already described. Leaving the springs at two miles, crossed the Neale at a place where it becomes narrower and the channel much deeper, with long sheets of salt and brackish water. I shall now leave the creek. In the time of a flood an immense body of water must come down it. At the widest part, where it spreads itself out in the plain, the drift stuff is from fourteen to fifteen feet up in the trees. Camped at 4 p.m.
Friday, 17th June, The Neale. Discovered another large quantity of water supplied by springs. This country is a wonderful place for them. There is an immense quantity of water running now.
Saturday, 18th June, The Neale. Started early in the morning to examine the country. Found large quantities of quartz, samples of which I brought with me. Still well watered, but without any timber.
Sunday, 19th June, The Neale. Water in abundance, with large quantities of quartz. The course the quartz seems to take is from the south-west to the north-east. The plain we examined to-day is a large basin, surrounded by the hills from Mount Younghusband and Mount Kingston, with the creek running through the centre. To-morrow I shall have a look along the north-east side of Mount Kingston, for I see the quartz apparently goes through the range and breaks out again on the north-east side, which is very white.
Monday, 20th June, Mount Kingston. Started at 8 o'clock a.m. to examine the quartz on the east side of Mount Kingston. Crossed the creek, and at three miles struck a quartz reef. The Freeling Springs still continue, but seem inclined to run more to the eastward. Changed my course to a peak in a low range which has a white appearance. At eight miles reached the peak; the quartz ceases altogether, and the country is stony from here. I can see the line of the Neale running eastward; it spreads out over the plain. It was my intention to follow it until it reached the lake, but I find the ground too stony for me to do so. Being reduced to my last set of shoes, and some of them pretty well worn out, I am obliged to retreat. Changed my course at seven miles across the bed of the creek, three miles broad, with a number of brackish water holes in it, some very salt. At this point the trees cease. I can see nothing of the lake. Camped on a gum creek without water. The latter part of our course was over a very barren and rotten plain, surrounded by cliffs of gypsum, quite destitute of vegetation. It has evidently been the bed of a small lake at some time. There is no salt about it.
Tuesday, 21st June, Dry Gum Creek. At 7.40 started on the same course as last night, and after various changes of bearings arrived at the hill, whither I had sent Muller, and where he found two springs. Instead of two, they are numerous all round the hill; some are without water on the surface, and others have plenty. It is a perfect bed of springs. A little more east they are stronger, surrounded with green reeds and rushes.
Wednesday, 22nd June, Mount Younghusband. Started at 8.40. At three miles and a half came to a large bed of springs with reeds and rushes, water running and good, with numerous other small springs all round. They are a continuation of those we camped at last night, with an abundant supply of excellent water. At four miles crossed the salt creek coming from Hawker Springs. At eight miles crossed three salt and soda lagoons, surrounded by lime and gypsum mounds, in which are numerous springs up to the foot of the hills (ten miles and a half) and all round them. I have named these hills Parry Hills, after Samuel Parry, Esquire. It was my intention to have gone to the east from this, but the horses' shoes will not admit of it. To the south-east I observed three conical hills, for which I will now steer. At seven miles crossed a gum creek, in which are large water holes, where water had been lately, but there is now only mud. There must be water either up or down the creek, for there are numerous native tracks leading both ways. At ten miles crossed a large gum (stunted) creek with abundant springs of rather brackish water. At nineteen miles and a half camped on a broad creek, but no water. The country good.