Part 6
Monday, 25th April, Finniss Springs. As it seemed likely to rain, in which case the country would be very soft, I started at 9.30 on a bearing of 242 degrees for Chambers Creek. After three miles of gravelly soil and scanty feed we came to the banks of the two creeks passed by Major Warburton, splendidly grassed, but the water very salt. They flow into Lake Torrens. After leaving these creeks we had four miles of sand hills, very rich with feed, thence over some stony ground to the creek, all good; my course brought me about three-quarters of a mile to the south of the creek, which I expected. Distance from the springs to this water hole, two miles; this is a very long water hole, with plenty of water in it, and the feed good. We saw some fresh tracks of natives to-day, but did not meet with any of them.
Tuesday, 26th April, Chambers Creek. I intend to remain here to-day to fix this place and examine the country about it. Latitude, 29 degrees 39 minutes 9 seconds. I sent Campbell (my stockman) in one direction, and Muller (the botanist) in another; they report quantities of water, also a great deal of salt water, with plenty of salt for the use of stations, with abundance of feed. The stockman saw numerous fresh tracks, but did not see any natives. The fires were still burning. Muller saw an old man, a woman, and a child. They were very much frightened, and when he approached, they called out "Pompoy!" and moved their hands for him not to come any nearer. As they seemed quite unwilling to hold any conversation, he left them.
Wednesday, 27th April, Chambers Creek. Started at sunrise this morning, accompanied by my botanist. After travelling thirty miles in a fruitless search for water, we camped upon a large stony plain with plenty of vegetation. The horses were very much tired by reason of the heavy sand. We could see no sign of Lake Torrens. Latitude, 29 degrees 53 minutes 58 seconds.
Thursday, 28th April, Large Stony Plain. Saddled by break of day. Changed my course to see if the water is still at Yarra Wirta. In order to avoid the heavy sand hills, which will not do for the horses if there is no water, I steered for the creek, struck it a little to the north of where I crossed it on my former expedition, and followed it down. Passed my former encampment, and found no water there, but on following it down to where I considered it permanent, I found water still there. I shall give the horses the afternoon to recruit, and start early in the morning. Distance to-day, twenty-three miles.
Friday, 29th April, Chambers Creek. Started at sunrise for about a mile to that part of the north shore of the lake opposite to where the Yarra Wirta empties itself into it. The country close to the lake is very stony and scanty of feed; there is some water in it, but it is very salt; a few salt creeks run into it, but no great body of water. I ascended a hill for which I had been steering, and obtained an observation of the sun and bearings. Latitude, 30 degrees 8 minutes 11 seconds. There is no appearance of any lake between this point and Mount Deception; it appears to be a stony plain with some ridges of sand hills. This hill, which I have named Mount Polly, for distinction, is the easternmost of the flat-topped hills on the north side of the lake, and is a spur from the Stuart range. It is very stony, and there is grass nearly to the top; it is very level, and extends for six miles in a north-westerly direction. I saw that there was little prospect of my obtaining water to-night; and knowing that the natives had been seen within a few miles of the camp, I felt anxious about the safety of my party. I determined to proceed towards the camp on a north-westerly course. Arrived at the creek at 11.30 p.m. and found all right; the natives had paid them a visit, as I anticipated, but my people could get no information from them. They were six in number; one was very forward, wishing to examine everything. I had left orders that, if they came, they were not to be allowed to come near the camp, but were to be met a little distance from it. They remained for some time, and then stole off one by one without being perceived, and were out of sight in a moment. The one that remained to the last in his flight did not forget to carry along with him a piece of blanket that had been a saddle-cloth, and which happened to be lying outside the camp.
Saturday, 30th April, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller and my stockman to build a cone of stones upon the highest of the three table-topped hills, for the base line of the survey. They are three remarkable hills close together; two only can be seen coming from the south and from the north-east. Latitude, 29 degrees 40 minutes 27 seconds. From the hill the men saw a number of native fires smoking to the westward on the creek, but have not seen any natives.
Sunday, 1st May, Chambers Creek. This morning we had a heavy dew. Went to the top of the three table-tops, and had a fine view of Mount Hamilton and the lagoon where the springs are, and the other hills; they are the same hills that I saw on my north-west course, when on my last journey.
Monday, 2nd May, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller and Campbell to build a cone of stones on Mount Strangways, which I have fixed as a south point of my base line. The mean of all the observations that I have got to-day makes the latitude to be 29 degrees 39 minutes 15 seconds.
Tuesday, 3rd May, Chambers Creek. Spent the day examining the neighbourhood for water, and in taking numerous bearings.
Wednesday, 4th May, Chambers Creek. I intend to move to-day to the large water holes westward, where I first struck the creek. The horses having strayed a long way off this morning, made it 11 o'clock before we got a start. About four miles from last night's camp the chain of large water holes commences, and continues beyond to-night's camp. They are indeed most splendid water holes--not holes, but very long ponds; they are nearly one continuous sheet of water, and the scenery is beautiful. I am sorry I did not name it a river in my former journal. I must bring my survey up to this night's camp to-morrow. It is very cloudy to-night, with a strong wind from the south-west, from which quarter the clouds are coming. The country is a little stony, but well grassed.
Thursday, 5th May, Chambers Creek. Moved the camp to a better situation. Ascended a hill, got some bearings to fix it, and built a cone of stones upon it. I have had the creek, which joins this, run up for three miles to the sources to-day. There is no more permanent water. There are an immense number of small fish in the ponds, and on the banks there is a shrub growing that tastes and smells like cinnamon; we happened to stir up the sugar in a pannikin of tea with a small twig of the bush, and it left quite the flavour of it in the tea. I have had Herrgott to take sketches of some of the ponds, also of the fish and other remarkable things. It has been rather cloudy to-day, and I could not depend upon my observations. There are numerous tracks of natives about, but we have not seen any of them; we have also found some new plants in the creek.
Friday, 6th May, Chambers Creek. Moved further up the creek on the south side to the last water that we knew of. It is a hole of rain water, very large, and will last a long time, being well sheltered by gum-trees and other shrubs.
Saturday, 7th May, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller to see if there is any more water to the west, and went myself to the top of a small hill, and built a cone of stones to connect this point with the last point. Muller returned after dark, and reported that there was no more permanent water. I shall start to the north to-morrow.
Sunday, 8th May, Chambers Creek. Started to the north over the range, which is rather difficult to get the horses up and down. On the top it is very stony, with salt bush and scanty grass. Crossed the Margaret and a salt creek, in which there is water, some of which is salt and some brackish, but not unfit for the use of cattle. There is abundance of feed all round. We arrived at Hamilton Springs a little before sundown. Distance, twenty-one miles.
Monday, 9th May, Mount Hamilton. Some of the horses require to be shod to-day. I shall also require to build a cone of stones upon Mount Hamilton (the one built by Major Warburton having fallen down), and get an observation of the same. Latitude, 29 degrees 27 minutes 37 seconds. The springs are certainly very remarkable, and Major Warburton gives a very good description of them.
Tuesday, 10th May, Mount Hamilton. Started for the Beresford Springs. Arrived at Mount Hugh at 11 o'clock, seven miles distant from Mount Hamilton, and, as I anticipated, found a number of splendid springs, giving out a fine stream of water, not the least brackish. The hill from which this stream issues is one hundred feet above the level of the plain, the water coming from the very top. My horse got bogged on the top, and I had some difficulty in getting him out, but I did so at last without injuring him. Started from the mount at 12.30, and, after three miles and a half, arrived at Beresford Springs. The Beresford Springs are nothing in comparison to the others; there are only two that are running, but they are very good. The country travelled over to-day has been very well grassed, with salt bush; take it altogether I have not seen better runs in the colony, and in the driest summer the furthest distance from water will not be above five miles at the most, but the feed is so abundant that they would not require to go so far. On that account they will feed double and treble the number of stock that the runs down the country do. At two miles on this side of the Hugh Springs discovered another batch of springs with plenty of water running from them; there are about eight or nine of them very good; those springs have not been visited by Major Warburton. We examined all round, but could find no tracks. I have named them the Elizabeth Springs. There is enough water running to drive a flour-mill in two or three places. They are really remarkable springs--such a height above the level of the plain; I saw them from a hill on Chambers Creek (the Twins). From whence do they derive their supply of water, to cause them to rise to such a height? It must be from some high ranges to the north-west, or a large body of fresh water lying on elevated ground. This is another strange feature of the mysterious interior of Australia. I shall remain here until after 12 to-morrow, to get an observation of the sun to fix this hill. I shall return to Mount Hamilton, and proceed to examine the country west of North Lake Torrens, for one of the east runs, which will complete my survey of them, and I shall despatch thence a messenger to Oratunga.
Wednesday, 11th May, Elizabeth Springs. Latitude, 29 degrees 17 minutes 43 seconds. I omitted to mention yesterday that, two miles before we reached Beresford Hill, we crossed Pasley Ponds and saw one of the Major's camps. The water is brackish, but not bad. The white deposit round these springs, and also round the Elizabeth, is soda. In returning, I examined the Coward Springs; the water is good, and running. There is a plentiful supply. It was dark when I arrived at Mount Hamilton. Saw four natives to-day, but they gave us a wide berth; they do not like to come near us.
Thursday, 12th May, Mount Hamilton. Some of the horses require shoeing, and I wish to get another observation of the sun. I shall remain here to-day, and examine the country to the north-east. About seven miles in that direction is the salt creek of Major Warburton. The country is of a light sandy soil covered with grass.
Friday, May 13th, Mount Hamilton. Started to the eastward, to complete the survey of the runs, and see if there are any more springs. To the south of east, about four miles, we discovered four springs not seen by the Major; there is a plentiful supply of water, and would be more if they were opened. One is choked up with reeds, but the other two are running. Saw some natives; they seemed frightened at first, but were induced to come close up: they were very much amused at our equipments. Two had seen or heard of whites before; they knew the name of horse, but no more; they call water courie, and some of their words very much resemble those of the natives in Port Lincoln. We could make nothing of them--they repeat every word of the question we ask them. They followed us over to the Margaret, and took us to some fresh-water springs in the creek, the water of which is very good. There is a quantity of reeds growing round them, also tea-tree. From this we followed the creek to the north, thence north-east towards the lake, but the water being too brackish, I returned to the springs, the natives walking with us all the time; they seemed very inoffensive. In following down the creek, another native joined us from the creek, carrying a net in which were some small fish; the net was a hoop one, well made.
Saturday, May 14th, The Margaret Creek. The morning very cloudy; every appearance of rain. Saddled and proceeded in search of Emerald Spring, on a north course. At seven miles made Mr. Babbage's old camp on a sand hill. Camped a little way from it. I did not know the position of the spring, but Herrgott informed me that it was three miles to the west. It commenced raining before we started, has rained all the way up, and is still doing so; it is a very light rain, but the wind is very strong and cold from the south-west. Intended to have brought up my plan, but the rain and wind prevent me.
Sunday, 15th May, Mr. Babbage's Old Camp. It cleared off during the night, but the clouds have come up again this morning and look very threatening. Sent Herrgott to find the spring. The wind is still from the same quarter, and too strong for me to do anything to the plan, which is a great annoyance. I will finish the survey of the runs from this place, and send Campbell back to Oratunga with the plan. Herrgott did not return until after sundown: he could not find the spring.
Monday, 16th May, Same Place. Sent Muller to the west; he returned at 10 o'clock, having found the spring about two miles and a half distant from the camp; it is not hot, but a little warmer than milk-warm. There is a good stream running from it, and the water is excellent; to me it has a mineral taste, very good. There were some small fish lying dead on the bank, near the mouth; they seemed to have been left there by the retiring of the flood--they were quite dried up. I intended to have taken some with me, but they were too dry--nothing but skin and bone. The creek empties itself into the lake, about a mile north from where Chambers Creek goes into it.
Tuesday, 17th May, Same Place. Again very cloudy, with a little rain. Busy finishing the survey. Could not obtain an observation of the sun. Wind still very strong.
Wednesday, 18th May, Same Place. Weather clearing up. Engaged with survey.
Thursday, 19th May, Same Place. Finishing tracings, etc.
Friday, 20th May, Same Place. At sunrise started Campbell for Oratunga with tracings, letter, etc., with orders to proceed to Finniss Springs, thence to Herrgott Springs, thence to St. A'Becket's Pool, thence to Mount Glenns, thence to Mount Stuart, and thence to Oratunga, taking six days to perform the journey. Preparing my other plans for a start to-morrow for the north-west, to see what the Davenport range is. Latitude, 29 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds.
Saturday, 21st May, Same Place. Started at 8 o'clock on a bearing of 310 degrees for the Davenport range. At twenty-two miles changed our course to examine a large lagoon to the south-west of us, bearing 238 degrees. At two miles reached the lagoon, which we examined for springs, but found none. I suppose it receives Major Warburton's salt creek. It is caked with a crust of salt, and is dry; it is seven miles long by three broad, running north-west and south-west. On the south-west side it is bounded by steep cliffs, and high sand hills on the top. Changed to 310 degrees, our original course. Came upon some rain water at four miles, and camped for the night. Distance to-day, twenty-eight miles.
Sunday, 22nd May, Rain Water. Sent Herrgott to examine the south-west side of the lagoon which we passed last night, with orders to overtake me by 11.30, so that I may get an observation of the sun at noon. The horses having strayed some distance during the night, our start was delayed until 9.15. Started on the same bearing as yesterday, 310 degrees. Stopped at 11.20 for Herrgott to come with the instruments, but he did not come up until 1.15, so that I lost my observation. I had told him, if there was no appearance of springs not to go far, but to return immediately; instead of which he went round the lagoon. Camped on a stony rise, with a little wood. Distance to-day, twenty-one miles.
Monday, 23rd May, Stony Rise. Started towards the Davenport range. The sand hills again commenced with beautiful feed upon them--low, with broad valleys; they continued for five miles, when the stony plain again commenced. The highest part of the range seems to be at the north-eastern point, which has the appearance of a detached hill. At three miles and a quarter from the last of the sand hills we saw the Douglas, and changed our bearing to 328 degrees 30 minutes. At one mile and a quarter struck the creek, but found no water in it. There were a number of gums, but not very large, also plenty of myalls there. The bed of the creek is bad, and will not retain water. We followed it down for three miles to see if there was water; but no sign of it, the creek still continuing broad and sandy. I was obliged to return to where I struck it, because it was nearly sundown, and I had found a little rain water about a mile to the south, which would do for the horses in the morning.
Tuesday, 24th May, The Douglas. Herrgott's horse in want of shoes. Could not get a start until late. Found a little more rain water in a clay-pan. If I can find no water near the range, I shall have to fall back upon Strangway Springs. I am anxious to see what is on the other side of the range, or I would run this creek down. There are numerous tracks of natives about the creek; we have also seen three fires three or four days old. Latitude, 28 degrees 45 minutes 4 seconds. Started at 12.30 on a bearing of 313 degrees for the highest point of the range east, over stony table land. The creek runs in the same direction for four miles, it then turns to the westward, and is lost sight of among some hills. At ten miles struck a stony box-tree creek; its bed was sand and gravel, but no water. At 11.30 descended from the table land, and camped at a gum creek at sundown; the bed the same as the last, and no water. There were numerous native foot-tracks here also. I am sorry I could not reach the range to-night, but we had some very bad ground to travel over, and no water.
Wednesday, 25th May, Dry Gum Creek. Examined the creek for water, but found none. Started on the same course as yesterday, 313 degrees, for the north-east highest point, which I suppose to be the Mount Margaret of Major Warburton. Native tracks seen in the creek. There may be water some distance down the creek, but here it is too sandy to retain it. At four miles struck another gum creek in turning round the south side of the range; it was of the same description as the others, too sandy to hold water. Proceeded towards the highest point of the range, and obtained an observation of the sun within a mile and a half of the mount. Left the horses in charge of Muller and ascended the mount, which was very difficult; it took us an hour to go up, and three-quarters of an hour to come down. The hill is composed of a greenish slate, lying horizontally at the base, and courses of quartz and granite, with ironstone; but I can see nothing of Major Warburton's quartz cliffs; they must be more to the south-west. The range has a very peculiar appearance from a short distance off; it seems to be an immense number of rugged conical hills all thrown together. From the top, the view to the north-west was hidden by a higher point of the range. To the north-north-west there is another range, about twenty miles distant, apparently higher than this, running south-west and north-east. To the north is another far-distant range; to the east, broken hill and stony plain, with a number of clay-pans. A number of creeks run to the eastward from this range; they become gum creeks further down, but in and close to the range they have myall bushes, and other shrubs. No water to be obtained in this range. Changed my course to the north-east to examine a white clay-pan that I thought might contain some fresh water. At three miles came upon it, and was very much disappointed to find it salt. This being the second day that the horses have been without water, I must give up the search for springs and return to one mile south of the Douglas, where we had found a little rain water. It being nearly sundown, I made for the last large gum creek, striking it lower down, also cutting the other creeks between, hoping to find water in some, but there was none. Made the large gum creek at 10 o'clock. Camped for the night. Horses very much done up, in consequence of the ground that we have been travelling over being so rotten and stony. The country is not good, nor the range; but at three miles to the east it becomes less stony and better grassed. No water.
Thursday, 26th May, Large Gum Creek. Started at daylight for beyond the Douglas. At 3 o'clock arrived at water. Horses so much done up that I shall require to give them two days' rest, if the water will hold so long, and then I must return to the Strangway Springs, as we know that to be permanent water. There are some heavy clouds coming up from the south-west, which I hope will bring rain.
Friday, 27th May, The Douglas. Rain all gone after a slight shower, which did not assist me much. Very sorry for it.
Saturday, 28th May, The Douglas. Horses looking better this morning, so I will give them this day also. I have sent Muller down the creek to the eastward, to see if there is any water in it. I should have gone again to-day to the Davenport range, to see if I could find the quartz reefs by striking it more to the south-west, but it would be too much for the horses, which are my mainstay, and this water will not last longer than to-day; it is going very fast. I do wish to goodness it would rain, for I do hate going back. Muller returned at sundown. He has been about twelve miles down the creek, but can find no water. It still continued sandy. He shot three new parrots.
Sunday, 29th May, The Douglas. Not being satisfied with my hurried examination of the range, I shall make another attempt to-day, and endeavour to find water. If we do not succeed we must fall back upon the springs. Started on a course of west-north-west. Crossed the Douglas three times. It turned to the south-west, but I continued my course, over low hills and valleys, with plenty of feed, with quartz, ironstone, and granite. At fifteen miles changed a little more to the north towards a rise. The country becomes very broken and rough, but still plenty of grass. At twenty miles crossed the upper part of the gum creek that I camped on on the 25th instant. The banks are nearly perpendicular cliffs of slate. Followed it up for two miles, but no water. I continued my course for the rising ground. At six miles I found that I was getting upon high table land; so, as the sun was nearly down, I returned to the creek, where there is some green feed for the horses, as they will be without water to-night. It was after sundown before I reached the creek and camped. I have named this creek Davenport Creek, after the Honourable Mr. Davenport, M.L.C.