CHAPTER XII.

Jacares savages—Mouth of the Beni river—Obstructions to steamboat navigation—Madeira river falls—Lighten the boat—Pot holes—Granite—Pedreneira falls—Caripuna savages—Pedro milks a savage woman—Bilious fever—Arrive at the foot of San Antonio falls—The impracticability of navigating by steamboats the falls of the Mamoré and Madeira rivers—Proposed road through the territory of Brazil to Bolivia—Physical strength of the white, black, and red men, compared under a tropical climate—Tamandua island—Turtle eggs—Oil-hunters—Borba—Mouth of the Madeira river. 287

APPENDIX.

Observations with the sextant and artificial horizon—Meteorological observations—Table of distances in South Peru and Bolivia by government measurement—Boiling water measurements of heights above sea level—Map of roads and rivers, with situation of mineral wealth. 315

LIST OF PLATES.

Page.

Llamas traversing the Andes laden with silver, (to face title page.)

View to the east of Juaja, (Peru). 6

Encamped near Huancayo, valley of Juaja, (Peru). 8

Quichua Indian family and hut, (Peru). 10

Alpacas on the Cordilleras, near Huancavelica, (Peru). 12

Matriz de San Antonio, Huancavelica, (Peru). 16

View to the south from Huanta, (Peru). 24

Matara post-house. 28

Camp Ladron, (Peru). 32

Ruin of the Incas Fort, Quramba, (Peru). 34

Apurimac bridge, (Peru). 38

Descending the Andes to the east of Cuzco. 44

Coca plantation, (Peru). 46

Rio Madre-de-Dios. 50

North view of the remains of the Incas fort, Sacsahuamam, Cuzco. 75

Agua Caliente Posta, (Peruvian tavern). 86

Titicaca Balsa, off Puno. 94

View of Nevada de Sorata, from the west shore of Lake Titicaca, (Peru). 100

Illimani snow-peak; Vicuñas pasturing with the sheep on the Puna of Bolivia. 117

Cochabamba market-women. 146

Ancient Quichua Indian hut, Cochabamba, (Bolivia). 152

La Laguna de Uara-Uara. 156

Yuracares plantation. 184

Yuracares Indians shooting fish. 194

San Mateo ferry, (Bolivia). 196

Vinchuta, (Bolivia). 200

Descending the river Mamoré, (Bolivia). 220

Housed in Mojos. 230

Maria Nosa, Casemira Nacopearu, José Vicente, Cayuba, Juana Jua. 246

Plaza de Trinidad, (Bolivia). 258

Don Antonio's Amazonian boats, Exaltacion, (Bolivia). 264

Brazil shore of the Itenez river. 272

View down the river Itenez, from Forte do Principe da Beira, (Brazil). 274

Descending Ribeirao falls, Madeira river, (Brazil). 292

Matuá and his brother Manú, Caripuna boys, and their bark canoe. 294

Crossing the mouth of the Madeira river, (Brazil). 312

PREFACE.

WASHINGTON CITY, January 25, 1854.

SIR: A Passed Midshipman, suddenly drawn from duty at the National Observatory, in Washington, to enter upon an exploration of distant lands and rivers, among strange and divers people, will not be expected to furnish a polished report of observations made under many disadvantages.

In revising notes, hastily scribbled upon a mule's back, on mountains, or in a canoe, the writer has endeavored to present familiar images of the objects he saw, as they impressed him at the time, leaving intelligent readers to draw their own conclusions from his facts, or the best information he could gain from reliable sources on the route.

The statesman, the planter, the merchant, the farmer, the manufacturer, or the artisan, can estimate, from every-day occurrences, in what manner habits and customs of inhabitants of the southern continent, or productions of its climates, lands, rivers, forests, and mines, may advantage the industry or promote the enterprise of the people of the United States of North America.

Being limited by instructions, the writer commences his observations at the division of the naval party at Tarma, in Peru, and closes them on reaching the mouth of the Madeira river, in Brazil.

Descriptions of fishes collected from snow-water lakes and streams in Peru or Bolivia, and from rivers in Brazil, botanical specimens, varieties of birds, different ores, earth, and metals procured on the journey, are unavoidably omitted.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

LARDNER GIBBON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy.

Hon. JAMES C. DOBBIN, Secretary of the Navy, Washington.