Part 8
“Here lyes all that was mortal of the most noble and truly valiant Sir Beville Grenville, of Stowe, in the county of Cornwall, Earl of Corbill, and Lord of Thorigny and Grenville, in France and Normandy, descended in a direct line from Robert, second son of the war-like Rollo, first Duke of Normandy, who, after having obtained divers signal victories over the rebels in the West, was at length slain, with many wounds, at the battle of Lansdowne, July 5, 1643. He married the most virtuous Lady, Grace, daughter of Sir George Smith, of the county of Devon, by whom he had many sons, eminent for their loyalty and firm adherence to the crown and church; and several daughters, remarkable examples of true piety. He was indeed an excellent person, whose activity, interest, and reputation, were the foundation of what had been done in Cornwall; his temper and affections so public, that no accident which happened could make any impression upon him, and his example kept others from taking any thing ill, or at least seeming to do so. In a word a higher courage and a gentler disposition were never married together, to make the most cheerful and innocent conversation.”
“To the immortal memory of his renowned grandfather, this monument was erected by the Right Honourable George Lord Lansdowne, Treasurer of the Household to Queen Anne, and one of Her Majesty’s most honourable Privy Council, &c., in the year 1714.”
“Thus slain thy valiant ancestor[37] did lye, When his one bark a navy did defy, When now encompass’d round the victor stood, And bath’d his pinnace in his conqu’ring blood, Till all his purple current dryed and spent, He fell, and made the waves his monument: Where shall the next famed Granville’s ashes stand. Thy grandsire fills the seas, and thou the land.”
MARTIN LLEWELLIN.
_Vide Oxford University Verses, printed 1643._[38]
Clarendon, in his History of the Rebellion, speaks of Sir Beville Grenville’s death as “that which would have clouded any victory, and made the loss of others less spoken of: and the monument is indebted to that noble author’s own words for all the latter part of the panegyric it is so properly intended to perpetuate.
The _Pulpit_ is a rich piece of carved work, and the _Font_ very antient.
The magnificent and old residence of the Grenville family, called _Stowe_, in this parish, has been pulled down many years, and the park dismantled. It was one of the most superb residences in England, and the beauty of the grounds and scenery adjacent, have been frequently eulogized. John Grenville, Earl of Bath in the reign of Charles II., erected it. It stood on an eminence, overlooking a well-wooded valley; but not a tree near it, says Dr. Borlase, to shelter it from the north-west. That writer speaks of it as by far the noblest house in the west of England, and says that the kitchen offices fitted up for a dwelling-house, made no contemptible figure. It is a singular circumstance, that the cedar wainscot, which had been brought out of a Spanish prize, and used by the Earl of Bath for fitting up the chapel in this mansion, was purchased by Lord Cobham at the time of its demolition (the house being then sold piecemeal) and applied to the same purpose at Stowe, the magnificent seat of the noble family of Grenville in Buckinghamshire, where it still remains.
Kilkhampton is noticed in history, as the place where the renowned and pious Harvey conceived his Meditations among the Tombs.
EXCURSION III.
_From Stratton to Bodmin; through Launceston, Callington, Saltash, St. Germains, and Liskeard._
The country between Stratton and Launceston, a distance of 12 miles, does not present anything requiring particular notice, except perhaps, within a few miles of the latter place bordering on Devon, _Werrington Park_, the seat of his Grace, the Duke of Northumberland. The house is rather a low building, and in point of architecture, is by no means imposing. The situation of the park, however, is particular fine, being highly diversified and embellished with some of the finest trees and foliage in the kingdom.
On entering St. Stephen’s, the attention of the traveller is immediately arrested by the handsome appearance of its _Church_, which is embellished with a handsome _Gothic Tower_, of great height. This edifice was rebuilt in the sixteenth century, and before the Conquest, was made collegiate; but suppressed through the influence of William Warlewast, Bishop of Exeter, who founded a Priory of Austin Monks in the adjoining parish of St. Thomas. This continued until the dissolution of religious houses in the reign of Henry VIII., when its annual revenues were valued at 354£. 0_s._ 11½_d._; yet not a vestige of it has been in existence for many years.
A most interesting view of Launceston presents itself from the bridge of Newport, and the _Keep_ of its venerable castle rises with awful dignity over the surrounding houses. The accompanying view is taken from the position alluded to.
Newport _Church_, generally called St. Thomas, is a small fabric of a very antient appearance, and here are several decayed houses, which exhibit the nature of domestic architecture a few centuries past.[39]
After ascending a steep hill, and passing through the north gate, stands LAUNCESTON, one of the most antient towns in the county, on the great western road to the Land’s End, distant 214 miles from London. This town ranks as one of the principal in the county, and from the influence it formerly possessed, from being fortified with a noble castle and embattled walls, it has enjoyed in early reigns, many privileges and immunities; but was not, however, incorporated until the reign of Queen Mary, in the year 1555. It has returned members to Parliament, however, since the reign of Edward I. The right of election is in the Corporation and free Burgesses.
The assizes for the county were formerly held wholly in this town; but an act was passed in the first of George I. to empower the proper authorities to hold the summer assizes at Bodmin.
The magnificent ruins of the _Castle_ are still highly interesting to the antiquary, and few subjects are better calculated for the pencil of the artist; their form being highly picturesque, and which are highly pleasing from being richly over-grown with ivy. The accompanying view exhibits the remains of the principal entrance, with the majestic and venerable keep rising above, together with the walls now fast falling to decay.
Regarding the origin of this antient fortress, little is known that may be deemed authentic; but, according to historians, it is said to have been in existence long prior to the conquest, which opinion is materially strengthened, from this neighbourhood having been the scene of many severe contests with the antient Britons and Saxons. After the conquest, it was given to the Earl of Morteyne, to whom no less than 288 manors in this county were also granted by William the Conqueror.
The remains chiefly consist of a _Gateway_, a small _Tower_ at the south-east angle, some decayed walls and the keep. The latter is 93 feet in diameter, and the height of the parapet from the base of the conical rocky mount on which the keep stands, is upwards of 100 feet. The ascent to it is on the south side, but the steps are mostly wanting, and to get its summit is now become even dangerous. It consists of three wards, each surrounded by a circular wall; the outer one, or parapet wall, is not more than three feet thick; the second wall is about six feet from the former, near four times as thick, and considerably higher; but between these two, a staircase leads to the top of the ramparts. The inner wall is 10 feet thick, and 38 feet high, and the diameter of the inclosed area is about 18 feet. This is said to have been divided into two apartments, and the lower one, having no light, is supposed originally to have been a dungeon, but the whole pile has become so extremely ruinous, that it is impossible to state exactly how, and for what purpose it was originally constructed. The doorways of the keep are chiefly composed of round arches, and a curious Saxon doorway, now forming the entrance to the White Hart Inn, is supposed to have belonged formerly to the castle. Lysons, however, concludes that it came from the antient priory at St. Thomas, above alluded to.
This fortress, like most others in the county, had in former reigns a governor; but the mode in which buildings of this kind are in general constructed, render them ill calculated as places of residence. It appears that Launceston Castle was in ruins as early as the reign of Edward III., although it was a post of much consequence during the civil wars in after times. At the Restoration it was granted to Sir Hugh Pyper, Knt. (who lies buried in the church here,) and was in the possession of his grandson, till the year 1754. It now belongs to his Grace, the Duke of Northumberland.
The _Church_ is a large handsome structure, composed of square blocks of granite, each of which is enriched with carved ornaments. The porch on the south side is particularly beautiful, and has a very striking appearance from the street adjoining. At the eastern end, also highly sculptured, is a curious figure of a Magdalene, in a recumbent posture. The interior contains several monuments, but none meriting particular observation. On the north side of the church is a very pleasant promenade sheltered by an avenue of trees, which is enlivened by a very extensive and beautiful prospect of the distant country.
Part of the old wall that surrounded the town and two _Gateways_ still remain: the one on the eastern or Exeter road, has a very antient and interesting appearance. The accompanying view which represents this gateway, is taken from the road leading to Callington.
The houses in the town are in general well built, but the streets are very narrow and badly paved. There are two _Charity-Schools_ maintained by voluntary subscriptions, and a _Free School_ founded in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and endowed with an income payable out of the revenues of the Duchy of Cornwall.
The market at this town is well supplied with all kinds of provision, and remarkably cheap. There are also no less than six fairs, held here annually. The town suffers much inconvenience in the summer season, from a scarcity of water.
The number of inhabitants, according to the late returns, amounted to 2163, and in 1811 to 1758, exclusive of the adjoining parishes of St. Thomas and St. Stephen’s.
_Trebursy_, near this town, a handsome modern residence, erected some distance from the site of the old house, is the property of the Hon. W. Eliot, M.P. late Colonel of the Cornwall Militia.
From Launceston to Callington, the distance is about 12 miles, and the country, as far as the first nine miles extend, is very beautiful and romantic. About three miles from Callington, in the parish of Stoke Clainsand, is _Whiteford House_, the seat of Sir William Pratt Call, Bart. It is a handsome building, standing in a beautiful and luxuriant valley, which, with the meandering water in front, has a very pleasant aspect. The fish ponds and gardens here are extremely fine, and kept in a high state of cultivation.
CALLINGTON is a market and Borough-town, situated in a flat and open part of the county, distant 214 miles from London. The houses are chiefly disposed in one broad street, and being very irregularly built, have rather a poor appearance.
The _Church_ is an antient and spacious fabric, consisting of three aisles, the centre one very lofty, and was built chiefly at the expense of Nicholas de Asheton, one of his Majesty’s Justices of the Court of King’s Bench, who died in the year 1645, and lies buried in the chancel, where there is a handsome brass plate with effigies of himself and lady.
There is also a handsome alabaster tomb, to the memory of Lord Willoughby de Broke, lord of the manor, who died in the year 1502. In the church-yard is a very antient octagonal cross, surrounded with some antient sculpture, but it has been most shamefully defaced.
This town is governed by a Portreve, who is chosen annually, at the court leet of the lord of the manor. The elective franchises of the inhabitants were lately determined by a committee of the House of Commons, but the members are usually returned by the freeholders and resident leaseholders.
Callington has a weekly market on Wednesday, and four fairs annually.
The prospects from the summit of Kitt Hill on Hengeston Downs, near Callington, are very extensive; comprehending the windings of the Tamar, the Hamoaze, Plymouth Sound, Mount Edgecumbe, and surrounding country. About five miles from Callington, in the parish of Calstock, is _Cotehele_ or _Cuttayle House_, one of the most antient and curious constructed mansions in England. It is situated on a pleasing eminence on the western bank of the Tamar; but being almost surrounded with wood, the river can only be seen from some of the windows of the higher apartments. There is no account when this mansion was erected; but from the style of architecture, is supposed to have been built about the time of Henry VII. It is a very irregular pile of building, inclosing a small quadrangle, the approach to which is through a square gateway tower on the south side. At the north angle, is a large square tower, which contains the principal apartments.
This place from the beauty of its situation and other local circumstances, has excited great curiosity, and parties of pleasure make frequent water excursions to it in the summer: boats for such purposes are to be hired at Plymouth or Saltash.
The entrance hall opening from the quadrangle, is embellished with a collection of antient armour, and warlike instruments; and gives a true picture of the feudal dignity of antient times. The several apartments in the house are enriched with a great variety of curious old articles of furniture, such as carved ebony chairs, cabinets, &c. There is besides, some very fine tapestry, ornamented with the figures of Romulus and Remus, &c., in good preservation. The chapel connected with the dining room is small, and was originally ornamented with painted glass windows. The altar cloth, composed of rich velvet embroidered, is ornamented with the figures of the Twelve Apostles, and other appropriate embellishments.
This mansion has belonged to the Edgecumbe family since the reign of Edward III.; and here Sir Richard Edgecumbe, who was attached to the House of Lancaster, concealed himself from the tyranny of Richard III. In remembrance of his miraculous escape, he erected the small chapel which stands on a rocky precipice, close to the river.
In the month of August, 1789, their late Majesties, with the Princess Royal and the Princesses Augusta and Elizabeth, honoured this old mansion with a visit, and breakfasted with the Earl and Countess of Mount Edgecumbe.
_Calstock Church_ stands about half a mile from the village, on a commanding eminence, and is a small antient fabric, containing several memorials of the Edgecumbes.
About a mile from the church, is _Harewood House_, the seat of Salisbury Trelawney, Esq. It is a handsome building, erected on one of the most delightful spots of the banks of the Tamar. Mason in his poem of Elfrida, has made Harewood the scene of the loves of Ethelwold, and of the misfortunes consequent to his union with the fair daughter of Edgar.
The village of Calstock is situated close to the side of the river, and here is a regular ferry to Beer Alston, in Devonshire.
About three miles from hence, is _Pentillie Castle_, the seat of John Tillie Coryton, Esq. which was erected a few years ago, from designs by Wilkins, on the site of an old family mansion. It is a very beautiful Gothic structure, with a majestic portico on the south side, surmounted with pinnacles, and being built on a bold eminence rising abruptly from the river Tamar, it really possesses a commanding and dignified appearance. The interior contains a number of spacious apartments finished in a handsome and costly manner.
The approach to the house is embellished with a neat Gothic _Lodge_, on the road leading to Saltash; and the grounds are enriched with a variety of beautiful plantations. In the grounds is a _Tower_ or _Sepulchral Building_, erected for Sir James Tillie, whose interment here has given rise to a tale, that being of Atheistical principles, he had directed himself to be placed after his death, in a chair therein, with bottles, glasses, &c. to perpetuate his derision of a future existence. The fact however, of his being buried in a coffin, was proved a few years ago; and from his will, it is clear that he died in the “hope of a glorious immortality.”
From hence to Saltash, the distance is six miles, and about a mile and a half to the left, in the church of the village of Landulph, is the following remarkable inscription:
Here lyeth the body of Theodore Paleologus of Pesaro in Itale, descended from the imperyall Lyne of the last Christian Emperors of Greece Being the sonne of Camilio, the sonne of Prosper the sonne of Theodoro, ye sonne of John, the sonne of Thomas, the second brother to Constantine Paleologus that rayned in Constantinople, until Subdued by the Turks, who married with Mary the daughter of William Balls of Hadley in Suffolke Gent. and had issue five children, Theodore, John, Ferdinando, Maria and Dorothy, and departed this lyfe at Clifton the 21st of January 1636.
There is also a large tomb in the chancel, with a handsome marble slab to the memory of Sir Nicholas Lower and his lady.
The _Parsonage House_ has been greatly improved, and commands a beautiful prospect of the river and Saltash. It contains a good library, and a few paintings by some of the antient masters. Much praise is due to the present incumbent, the Rev. F. V. I. Arundell, for having raised an embankment round the house, and for bringing the grounds into a high state of cultivation, and for improving the plantations.
About two miles from hence, in the parish of BOTUS FLEMING, is _Moditonham_, the seat of Charles Carpenter, Esq. a commodious modern building, most delightfully situated, and commanding some extensive views of the surrounding country.
In the _Church_, a small venerable pile, is a recumbent figure of a crusader with a sword and target, which was accidentally discovered about three years ago, on the removal of some old wainscot.
In the centre of a field, at the north side of the village, stands a pyramidical monument, erected in memory of Dr. William Martin, of Plymouth, who died in the year 1762.
The town of SALTASH principally consists of one long street rising abruptly from the Tamar, to a considerable eminence, and the houses in general have an antient appearance. It is a place, as Carew observes, which, owing to the steep ascent on which it is situated, “every shower washes clean.” It is also of great antiquity, and in the year 1393, the assizes for the county are said to have been held here. During the civil wars it was considered of much importance, being one of the principal passes into the county. It was first garrisoned by the Parliament, and surrendered without opposition to Sir Ralph Hopton, in the autumn of 1642. General Ruthen, finding it open after his defeat at Bradock-down, in January, 1643, took possession, and hastily fortified it; but it was soon afterwards taken by assault, by Lord Mohun and Sir Ralph Hopton: a garrison was left in it in the month of May that year, but on the approach of the Earl of Essex, it was given up the latter end of July, 1644. We are told that on this occasion Sir Edward Waldegrave gallantly defended the pass, and, as it appears, with temporary success. After the capitulation of Essex, Saltash was again taken possession of by Sir Richard Grenville: in the month of October following, it was taken by a detachment from the garrison at Plymouth: Sir Richard Grenville afterwards recovered it by assault: and it was finally abandoned by the King’s troops in the month of February, 1646.
Saltash is governed by a Mayor, six Aldermen, and an indefinite number of burgesses; but they generally amount to about 30. It was made a free borough in the reign of King John, or that of Henry III., by Reginald de Valletort, who confirmed to the burgesses various privileges which they had enjoyed under his ancestors: these privileges were confirmed by King Richard II. In the year 1682, Charles II. granted this borough a renewed charter of incorporation, under which the body-corporate was defined to consist of a Mayor and six Aldermen, styled the council of the borough, who had liberty to chose a Recorder: but the charter first mentioned, in virtue of which the town is now governed, was procured in 1774. It has returned members to Parliament since the reign of Edward VI. The right of voting is confined to the freeholders of the borough, amounting to about 70 persons. Some names of eminence appear in the list of its representatives; as Sir Francis Cottington, Edward Hyde, afterwards Earl of Clarendon, and Edmund Waller the poet.
The _Chapel_ is an antient structure, having Gothic windows and a massive tower. It contains a handsome altar piece. In the north aisle there is a superb monument to the memory of three brothers, named Drew, officers in the navy, who were unfortunately drowned.
Saltash has a market weekly, and four fairs annually; and over the river is a constant ferry; boats are to be had at a short notice, for Plymouth Dock, or any place in its vicinity. The market mentioned as attached to the castle of Trematon, when the survey of Domesday was taken, was probably held at Saltash: it is spoken of in that survey as a new market of the Earl’s, which had been prejudicial to the Abbot’s market at St. Germain’s. The small weekly market for butcher’s meat is held on Saturday: an old writer says, that the burgesses claimed another market on Tuesday, but that it was not in his time held. The present fairs are on the Tuesday before each quarter-day, (the remnant, probably, of the Tuesday’s market,) February 2, and July 25: the two last are for horned cattle and sheep. The tolls of the market and fairs belong to the Corporation, who are entitled to the proceeds of the ferry over the Tamar, the privilege of dredging for oysters, the farm and tolls of oysters, and certain duties payable by masters of ships; which altogether produced about £300 per annum in 1714.
Leland speaks of “Asche (Saltash) as a praty quick market town. The tounesmen,” he says, “use boothe merchandise and fischery.” Norden says, “the towne increaseth daylie in merchandise and wealth: there belonge unto the towne some 8 ships besydes small boates. The haven is capable of anie burden. The great carrack that Sir Frauncis Drake browghte home so rich, arrived here, and was here disburdened, and after fatally fyred.”