Part 6

The _Church_, which stands on a commanding eminence, and serves as a land mark, is a spacious fabric, consisting of three aisles, and contains several curious monumental remains; but when it was repaired in 1814, a handsome carved screen and other relics of antiquity were removed. Near the south porch, which is ornamented with embrasures and pinnacles, is a small cross,[28] raised on four steps, with a circular head perforated with four holes, and on one side is a representation of the Crucifixion. In this parish are several decayed seats, now mostly occupied by farmers, which formerly belonged to several eminent persons in the county.

The celebrated _Logan_ or _Rocking Stone_ at Treryn Castle, in the parish of St. Levan, is highly deserving of notice, and indeed is considered as great a curiosity as any thing in Cornwall. This extraordinary stone, or immense block of granite, supposed even to weigh 90 tons, is so balanced on the summit of an immense pile of rocks, that one individual, by placing his back to it, can move it to and fro easily.

“Behold yon huge And unhewn sphere of living adamant, Which, pois’d by magic, rests its central weight On yonder pointed rock, firm as it seems, Such is its strange and virtuous property, It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch.”

The stupendous and majestic appearance of the rocks which form the Promontory of the _Land’s End_, the raging of the ocean beneath, the incessant screaming of sea gulls and other wild birds, when disturbed by the sight of man, raise the strongest emotions of admiration and astonishment. On a ridge of rocks, called the Long Ships, a _Light-House_ was erected in the year 1797, by a Mr. Smith, under the sanction of the Trinity Board.

EXCURSION II.

_From the Land’s End to Stratton; through St. Ives, Camborne, Redruth, St. Columb, Padstow, and Camelford._

St. Just, about five miles from the Land’s End, is the first place of any note in this direction, and is situated about seven miles from Penzance; but chiefly remarkable as the birth-place of the celebrated Dr. Borlase, the historian of the Natural History and Antiquities of this county.[29]

“The road to St. Ives,” says Dr. Maton, “when returning from the western part of the county, passes near numerous shafts of mines, which render a journey over this part of the country by night extremely dangerous. The moor stone or granite lies dispersed in detached blocks, many of them huge enough for another _Stone Henge_. Scarcely a shrub appears to diversify the prospect, and the only living beings that inhabit the mountainous parts are the goats, which browse the scanty herbage.”

ST. IVES is a very antient and populous sea-port town, situated near the north-east angle of a very fine bay, about eight miles from Penzance; seven from Marazion; 13 north-west from Helston; 14 west from Redruth; and 277 from London. In antient records, this town was called _Porth-Ia_; and it is said to have derived its name from St. Hya, or Ia, an Irish saint, who came over to Cornwall accompanied by St. Breaca and others, and was buried in the church at this place.

It has a good _Pier_, erected by Smeaton, about 40 years ago; but the streets being very narrow, irregular, and dirty, the town has but a poor appearance in itself, yet when viewed from the environs, it has a very picturesque effect. It is also one of the Borough-Towns of Cornwall, and the right of electing the Members of Parliament, is vested in the Corporation and all the inhabitants of the town and parish paying scot and lot. According to the late returns, the parish contains upwards of 3000 inhabitants. A considerable traffic is carried on at St. Ives, with the Bristol merchants, besides the Pilchard Fisheries; but this port, like most others on the north coast, is much incommoded by the quantity of sand driven in by the north-west winds.

Speaking of St. Ives, Leland observes that “most part of the houses in the peninsula be sore oppressid or overcovered with sandes that the stormy windes and rages castith up there. This calamte hath continuid ther litle above 20 yeres.” Again he says, “the best part of the toun now standith in the south part of the Peninsula, toward another hille for defence from the sandes”. Norden describes the haven as much annoyed with sands, and unfit for receiving ships of any burden. “The town and port of St. Ives,” says Carew, “are both of mean plight; yet with their best means (and often to good and necessarie purpose) succouring distressed shipping. Order hath been taken,” he adds, “and attempts made for bettering the road with a peer; but eyther want or slacknesse, or impossibilitie, hitherto withhold the effect: the whiles plentie of fish is here taken and sold verie cheap.” Holinshed has mention of a light-house, and block-house, near St. Ives, to the following effect. On “a little byland cape or peninsula, called Pendinas, the compass not above a mile, standeth a Pharos or light for ships that sail by those coasts in the night. There is also a block-house and a peer on the east side thereof, but the peer is sore choaked with sand, as is the whole coast from St. Ives unto St. Carantokes.” There is still a battery on the eastern side, and the old pharos, which still exists, is used for depositing government stores.

Sir Francis Basset, member for this town in the reign of Charles I., gave the Corporation a handsome cup, on which is the following singular inscription:

_If any discord ’twixt my friends arise, Within the borough of beloved St. Ives, It is desyned that this my Cup of Love, To evince one a Peace Maker may prove. Then am I blest to have given a legacie So like my harte unto posteritie._

This Sir Francis Basset, (who was of Tehiddy) procured for St. Ives, from King Charles, in the year 1639, its first charter of incorporation; under which the body-corporate consisted of a Mayor, 12 capital Burgesses, and 24 inferior Burgesses: but by the subsequent charter of James II., granted in 1685, the Corporation consists of a Mayor, Recorder, Town clerk, 10 Aldermen, and 12 Common-council-men. Four of these are Justices of the Peace, and hold a Sessions. It appears that before the incorporation, the chief officer of this town was called the Mayor or Portreeve; and it is said that one Payne, who held that office in the reign of Edward VI., was executed by order of Sir Anthony Kingston, for being concerned in Arundell’s rebellion.[30] The Borough has sent members to Parliament ever since the reign of Philip and Mary.

The Rev. _Jonathan Touss_, the learned annotator on Sudidas, and editor of Longinus, was born at St. Ives, and died at the age of 72, in the year 1785, after being 34 years rector of St. Martin’s, near Looe.

The _Church_ is a low antient fabric, situated near the seashore, and contains a curious _Font_, the body of _St. Ia_, the foundress of the church, and the patroness of the town.

On the summit of a hill, near the town, is _Treguma_, a modern castellated building, the seat of S. Stephens, Esq. which commands a fine prospect of the sea. About a mile from the house, is a pyramid erected to the memory of the late John Knill, Esq., of Gray’s Inn, London, and secretary to Lord Hobart, when Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, who by will, directed that at the end of every five years, an old woman, and 10 girls under 14 years of age, should walk in procession with music, from the market-house at St. Ives, to this pyramid, round which they should dance and sing the 100th Psalm, and for which purpose he gave some freehold lands.[31]

About four miles from St. Ives, at a place called _Hayle_, situated on the eastern bank of the river of that name, were, till lately, several houses for smelting copper, but which have been discontinued, owing to the too great expense necessary to be incurred. The process of smelting the ore and rolling the metal, was brought to great perfection at these works, but materially effected the constitution of the poor men employed in them. A very considerable trade is however carried on at Hayle, in timber, iron, limestone, and Bristol wares.

On the west side of the harbour, is _Trevethoe_, the property of Wm. Praed, Esq. The house stands in a very pleasant situation, and the grounds have been much improved by the introduction of the pine-aster fir, which flourishes extremely well in this part of the county.

The county between this place and Redruth, has long been celebrated for its numerous mines, some of which have produced a golden harvest for their proprietors, and have given employment to many hundred persons.

In the midst of them stands CAMBORNE, which has in consequence become a considerable market town, and has four fairs annually. The market-house was erected at the expense of Lord de Dunstanville.

The _Church_ is an antient fabric, and contains some elegant memorials of the Pendarves family, a handsome marble altar-piece, and a curious carved stone pulpit; but its antient font has been removed to the gardens at Tehiddy. According to the late returns, the population of Camborne is stated at 6219, or an increase of 1005, during the last 10 years.

_Pendarves_, in this parish, the seat of Edward William Wynne Pendarves, Esq. is a large handsome building, situated on a commanding eminence, and has lately undergone many judicious improvements.

About four miles to the left of the road to Redruth, and the same distance north-west of that town, is _Tehiddy Park_, the seat of the Right Hon. Lord de Dunstanville, which forms a noble feature in this part of the county. It is a handsome edifice, chiefly built of Cornish free-stone, with detached wings at the angles, and erected in the early part of last century. It is embellished with a number of fine paintings, of which the following are most worthy of notice.

_King John signing Magna Charta._—Miller.

_The Cascade of Terni_, and another of the

_Cascatellis of Tivoli_, with _Mecœnuskilla_.—More.

_The Lake of Nirni._—Dulancy.

_The Death of Lucretia_, & a _Venus and Cupid_.—Gavin Hamilton.

_The Three Graces._—Rubens.

_A Philosopher with a skull in his hand._—Rembrant.

_A Nativity_, and a _Flight into Egypt_.—G. Bassan.

_Herodias, with the Head of John the Baptist._—Bonomi de Ferrari.

_Sketch of our Saviour appearing to St. Bruno._—Lanfrane.

A small picture of a _Nun_.—Carlo Dolcii.

_A Battle Piece._—Burgognon.

_Portrait of a Venetian Senator._—Pordenon.

A whole-length _Portrait of Gen. Massey_.—Vandyke.

Ditto _of Sir Francis Basset_, Vice-Admiral of Cornwall.—Ditto.

_Chief Justice Keybridge and his Wife._—Peter Lely.

_Lady Masters, aged 74_, sister to Sir Francis Basset.—Godfrey Kneller.

_The late Sir John St. Aubyn and the late Francis Basset_, Esq.—Hudson.

_Lord de Dunstanville and his Lady._—Gainsborough.

_Ditto_, when about 18 years of age, in a vandyke dress.—Sir Joshua Reynolds.

_Sir John St. Aubyn._—Ditto.

_John Prideux Basset._—Ramsey.

The extent of Tehiddy Park amounts to about 700 acres, and the grounds have been much improved and beautified by extensive plantations, since the present nobleman succeeded to this estate.

Two miles south of Tehiddy, and within the same distance of Redruth, is _Carn-bre’ Hill_, a very interesting spot, and considered by Borlase, (from the numerous remains of cromlechs, basons, circles, and kairs, in its vicinity) to have been the principal seat of Druidical worship in this neighbourhood. Notwithstanding many other writers have coincided in this opinion, yet it is evident from the observations of one of the most learned Antiquarians, that these remains _do not exhibit a complete system of Druidical worship_, and _Dr. Maton_ also observes, “these rocks exhibit awful vestiges of convulsions, and the immense detached masses of granite, which appear about to roll down their declivities, awaken sublime ideas in the mind of a spectator.” Neither is there any appearance of systematic designs in the remains alluded to.

On the eastern side of the hill, stands _Carn-bre’ Castle_, erected on a vast ridge of rocks, which not being all contiguous, are connected by arches turned over the cavities. One part of this fortress is very antient and pierced with loop holes, but the other seems more modern, and is supposed to have been erected to embellish the prospect from Tehiddy, and from its elevated situation, being nearly 700 feet above the level of the sea, commands a most extensive view of the surrounding country. In the year 1749, several gold coins and other relics of antiquity, were found in digging a part of the hill, and a plate of them is given in Borlase’s Work.

REDRUTH, which is supposed to be one of the most antient places in the county, is now become a very considerable and populous market town. It principally consists of one long street, built on the side of an eminence, in the very bosom of the mining district.

The _Church_, which was rebuilt about 50 years ago, is a neat edifice, standing nearly a mile from the town; and the rectory is in the gift of Lord de Dunstanville.

Redruth has two markets weekly, and three fairs annually. The population of the parish, according to the late returns, amounts to 6,000.

_Scorrier House_, about two miles from Redruth, the seat of John Williams, Esq., contains a very valuable collection of minerals.

The country between Redruth and St. Agnes, appears extremely desolate and barren, as a late writer has observed—“like the shabby mien of a miser, it’s aspect does not correspond with its hoards;” since there are more mines in this part of the county, than any other.

ST. AGNES is a small town, on the northern coast, nine miles from Truro, and 267 from London, and had formerly a considerable harbour, now choaked up with sand; and the quay has been partly washed down by the impetuosity of the waves, but is now in tolerable repair.

The lover of the picturesque, however, will be highly pleased at the grandeur of the rocks, which face the shore at this part of the coast; and here is a remarkable stupendous mountain, called _St. Agnes’ Beacon_, rising pyramidically to the height of more than 600 feet above the level of the sea. The beacon on the top is greatly dilapidated, yet is particularly valuable to vessels passing this coast. An antient well at this place, has been much extolled, and many miraculous stories are told regarding its virtues.

St. Agnes has to boast of the birth of that celebrated painter, Opie, and one of the members of the Royal Academy, who died so much lamented, at an early age. His Lectures on Painting have since been published, with his portrait, and are highly interesting and useful to the artist.

The _Church_ is an antient edifice, and is consolidated with the vicarage of Piranzabuloe, being in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Exeter. There are also several antient manors in this parish. The population, according to the late returns, amounted to 5,762, being an increase of 738, since the year 1811.

In PIRANZABULOE, the adjoining parish, is of a circular amphitheatre, with a rampart and fosse surrounding it, called _Piran Round_. The area is about 130 feet in diameter, and it is supposed to have been originally designed for the performance of Cornish interludes, or where plays were acted.

_Perraw Porth_ in this parish, is much resorted to during the bathing season, on account of its fine sandy beach, &c.

_Trerice_ in Newlyn, is one of the most interesting antient buildings in the county, and although going to decay, still displays much of its original grandeur. The principal entrance hall being very spacious, is lighted by a fine large window of 24 compartments, and over the chimneypiece in the drawing-room, (which is in a very deplorable state,) are the arms of the Arundel family, who resided here at a very early period. It is now the property of Sir Thomas Dyke Acland, Bart., and at present is occupied by a respectable farmer.

About three miles from hence, in the parish of St. Columb Minor, are some considerable remains of _Railton Priory_, and which is said to have been founded by Prior Vivian of Bodmin, who is noticed in a subsequent part of this work.

The remains are seated in a romantic valley, and principally consist of the entrance gateway, and an inner court with an embattled dwelling, lighted with three Gothic windows. There is also a very antient _Well_, at the back of which is a curious carved niche, with a pedestal for an image. At different parts of the building are several coats of arms of the founder, and a stone with some curious characters upon it. The accompanying view exhibits the most interesting and entire part of this religious building.

Quitting this sequestered spot, on ascending the hill leading to St. Columb, on the left, stand the ruins of _Nanswhyden House_, the seat of the late Robert Hoblyn, Esq., and which was unfortunately destroyed by fire, in 1803, together with the whole of the furniture in it. The house was one of the handsomest buildings in the county, and erected from the designs of Potter, at an expense of upwards of £30,000. It had a very valuable library, which fortunately escaped this catastrophe, having been sold before by auction in London, after the sale lasting 25 days. The catalogue was embellished with a portrait of the owner, and is now a valuable relic of literature.

At MAWGAN, a romantic village three miles north-west from St. Columb, is _Lanherne_, formerly the residence of the Arundels; but remarkable as being the abode of several Carmelite Nuns from Antwerp, and the only nunnery now existing in this county. It is a very antient building, and contains a neat _Chapel_ adorned with a few good paintings, brought hither at the time the nuns emigrated to this country. The east front of the house being the principal, displays much of its original character, but the whole is an interesting pile of building. It is now the property of Lord Arundel, of Wardour Castle, who takes great pleasure in affording an asylum, and attending to these unprotected women:

“Oft the musing passer by At the Mansion casts his eye, Griev’d for the devoted host, There to social freedom lost.”

The nuns are very strict and regular in their devotions, and employ their leisure time in the manufacture of fancy articles, which are disposed of to those persons who visit the place. Although this indulgence is allowed, the nuns are seldom seen, except at a funeral, when the whole of them attend the corpse, to the end of the lawn in front of the house.

The _Church_ of Mawgan almost adjoins Lanherne, and is a very antient fabric, containing a great variety of curious brass monumental inscriptions, but several of them have been defaced. The carving of the screen which separates the chancel, is a fine piece of workmanship. In the church-yard stands a very curious and antient _Gothic Cross_, on the east side of which is a niche containing the Crucifixion, sculptured in pretty high relief. In the niche on the west side, is carved a subject, taken no doubt from some legend, consisting of the figures of a king and queen; the latter in the dress of the fourteenth century, kneeling on one side before a desk. On the other side, is a large bolt with a serpent coiled round it, which seems to be biting the face of the king, whilst an angel holds its tail.[32] The whole is in tolerable fine preservation, but for whom, or for what purpose it was erected, has never been ascertained.

_Carnanton_, in this parish, the seat of James Willyams, Esq., is a neat and commodious building, but almost surrounded by trees. An earthen vessel was lately found near this house, containing near 700 silver English coins of different reigns, in fine preservation.

_Trewan_, the seat of Richard Vyvyan, Esq, the late Sheriff for the county, is situated on the brow of a hill facing the south, commanding a fine view of the town of St. Columb. It is an irregular building of granite, said to have been erected in the year 1633, and the interior contains several handsome apartments; but the drawing room being richly ornamented with sculpture, representing the principal events of the Book of Genesis, is highly deserving of notice.—There are also a few good portraits, and a fine picture of a Shipwreck, by Vandervelde.

ST. COLUMB MAJOR, as it is called, to distinguish it from a parish of the same name adjoining the village, but of less consequence, is a considerable market town; and although not situated on the high mail road to Truro, yet is a town of some importance on the northern side of the county. It is built on an eminence, and contains a few good houses; the _Market-house_ has an antient appearance. It is situated 11 miles north-west of Bodmin, and 15 from Truro; but after leaving the regular high mail road, the other roads winding to the town are very bad and dirty.

The _Church_ is a large antient fabric; but has, perhaps, been injudiciously altered from its original design. The interior contains a variety of memorials, one of which has a handsome bust of the deceased Robert Hoblyn, Esq. of Nanswhyden, who represented the City of Bristol in three Parliaments, and died in the year 1756. The living of St. Columb is the best in the county, and computed to be worth at least £2000 per annum, and in the gift of the Rev. George Moore, of Garlennick, near Grampound.

The population of the parish, according to the late returns, amounted to about 2,493. It has a market every Thursday, and two fairs annually.

About two miles from the town, to the left of the road leading to Bodmin, but in St. Columb parish, is _Castle-an-Dinas_, a noble entrenchment, originally fortified with three circular walls, and an immense ditch. It is generally supposed to have been constructed by the Danes, and was a permanent fortified residence of some Scandinavian Chief. The diameter of the space enclosed, is 400 feet; and the principal ditch is 60 feet wide. Castle-an-Dinas, Dr. Borlase says, consisted of two stone walls, built one within the another, in a circular form: the ruins he describes as fallen on each side the wall, shewing the work to have been of great height and thickness: he also mentions a third wall, built more than half way round, but left unfinished. This remain is seated on the highest hill in the hundred of Penwith.

From St. Columb to Padstow, the distance is eight miles, but the country between those places does not present any thing deserving particular observation.

PADSTOW has long been noted as the principal sea-port town on the north coast of Cornwall, and in a commercial point of view is of the greatest advantage to the county. Here also the first religious house was founded by St. Petreock, as early as the year 432. It is situated 11 miles from Bodmin, and about 243 from London, and is noted as one of the most antient places in England. The town is built on the western side of the harbour, sheltered by an immense hill, and at high water has a pleasing appearance.