Part 6

In the original prospectus for the construction of the Chester and Holyhead railway, it was proposed to carry the line across the suspension bridge which has just been described; the engines to be detached from the trains at each end of the bridge, and the carriages to be conveyed over by horses. The government very properly objected to an arrangement which would have been in all respects a great public inconvenience. It was then proposed to cross the Straits in the vicinity of the Britannia rock, a little to the southward of the suspension bridge, by a bridge of two cast-iron arches supported on piers of masonry. This project was opposed by the trustees of the Caernarvon harbour, as a dangerous interference with the free navigation of the Straits, which had always been of a difficult and intricate character. A long and anxious investigation of this matter ended in a proposal by Mr. Robert Stephenson, the eminent engineer to the railway company, to construct a mode of transit, which should be perfectly unobjectionable. In May, 1845, that gentleman explained to a committee of the House of Commons, to whom the Chester and Holyhead Railway Bill had been referred, that the engineers sent down by the Board of Admiralty to Bangor having reported that the proposed two-arched bridge would be injurious to the navigation, and recommended one of a much greater width, and of a flat surface, without any arch; he (Mr. Stephenson) had been under the necessity of preparing himself to carry out those suggestions. He was apprehensive that owing to the expansion and contraction of iron, in a position where the ends, as in an arch, are jammed down on immovable piers of masonry, the fabric of an iron arch of such great width might not be free from danger; and a suspension bridge would not be safely available as a railway for locomotive engines. He had therefore come to the conclusion, that a tube or tunnel, of wrought iron, large enough for the passage of trains, would be the most feasible plan, embracing safety for the navigation, and creating no delay to the transit of the railway carriages over the straits. The tube would be 900 feet in length, supported at the centre in a pier of masonry, about 100 feet high, erected on the Britannia rock. The ends would not be jammed, as in the case of an arch, but left free, so as to admit of expansion in the metal arising from the change of temperature. The practicability and safety of this novelty in engineering science, were attested by several witnesses of competent skill and ability; and the plan was ultimately sanctioned by Parliament. The pier of masonry to be erected on the Britannia rock, which lies about mid-way across the stream, is to have four sides, each of 50 feet width; the water-way on each side of the pier to be 450 feet wide; the height and shape of the Menai suspension bridge to be maintained in the construction of the proposed tunnel, with the same clear headway for the free passage of vessels navigating the straits. At a meeting of the Chester and Holyhead Railway Company, in August 1845, the report presented by the board of management contained the following passages:—

“With reference to the magnitude, as well as the novelty of the work, your directors deemed it essential that the plan of crossing the Menai Straits, proposed by Mr. Stephenson, the company’s engineer, should be subjected to the test of experiments. Those experiments have been in progress for some time, and are now nearly completed. The results as at present shewn are extremely satisfactory, confirming most strongly the soundness of the principle, and giving the most perfect confidence to your directors, with regard to the proposed stupendous structure, that its erection will be easy, and that its security will be complete and lasting. So satisfied is Mr. Stephenson with the comparative strength, durability, and economy of this new method of bridge-building, that he purposes adopting it also for the crossing of the river at Conway.”

In the spring of 1846, contracts for the erection of this novel bridge over the Menai were entered into; the works are now in progress; and this singular triumph of engineering skill will afford another extraordinary instance of the achievements of railway enterprise; and add another to the many wonders of nature and art, which abound throughout this attractive district of the Principality.

Penrhyn Castle,

The magnificent seat of the Hon. E. Douglas Pennant, M.P. for Caernarvonshire, is within an easy walk of Bangor. The present castle is said to have been built on the site of a palace of Roderic Molwynog, prince of Wales, who began his reign in 720, and long continued in possession of the Welsh sovereigns. This ancient demesne has been a favourite subject of the British muse from the earliest times.

Abode of native chiefs, of bards the theme, Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream, And phœnix-like, in rising splendour drest, Shews on its wide domain a regal crest; Here Cambria opes her tomes of other days, And with maternal pride, the page displays— Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace From Britain’s genuine kings—her noblest race.

The estate came into the family of Pennant, partly by the purchase of the late Lord Penrhyn’s father (John Pennant, Esq.), and partly by his own marriage with Anne Susannah, daughter and sole heiress of the late-General Warburton, of Winnington, in Cheshire. By this matrimonial compact, the two moieties, which had for some time been divided, became united: and his lordship having no issue, the immense estates devolved upon the late George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq., whose daughter married the present respected possessor. The lady with whose hand so wealthy a dowry was bestowed, died in the year 1842, and in January, 1846, the Hon. E. D. Pennant married Lady Louisa Fitzroy, the accomplished daughter of the Duke and Duchess of Grafton. Lord Penrhyn made very considerable alterations in the mansion; and his immediate successor, whose public spirit well accorded with that of his lordship, and whose generous munificence endeared him to the surrounding district, was long engaged in rebuilding it, in a magnificent style, so as to render it one of the most complete edifices in the kingdom. It is erected in the boldest style of castellated architecture, of Mona marble, and displays a magnificent range of buildings, crowned with lofty towers, of which five are circular; the keep, and another of the principal towers are square, with angular turrets. The internal decorations correspond with the grandeur of the exterior; the mantle-pieces and other ornaments being made of Mona marble, which admits of a very high polish: the furniture is also extremely elegant. The situation is most picturesque and imposing, and commands a glorious, extensive, and diversified prospect of marine and mountain scenery. There are several lodges forming entrances to the park, all elegant in their design, and lofty in their elevation; the principal one, which is near the junction of the London and Chester roads, being a stately and beautiful specimen of the architecture of the whole. A grand massive substantial gateway, on a corresponding plan, has been completed; together with a handsome park wall, thirteen feet high, and seven miles in circuit.

There is an elegant chapel near the castle, for the accommodation of the family; and on the beach are handsome and commodious hot and cold baths. The stables are upon a noble and extensive scale. The building has a handsome façade, fronted with patent slate, and the pilasters which divide the stalls, as well as the mangers, are of the same material. Indeed, this very valuable article appears to be converted, on the Penrhyn demesne, to every possible use. The park is fenced with narrow upright slate slabs, cut in imitation of palisadoes, and fixed by pins to oaken railings, which find their support in posts formed of cubic slate.

In this mansion is still preserved a hirlas, or drinking horn of the hero, Piers Gruffydd, perhaps the only elegant specimen of that kind of utensil, elucidatory of ancient manners, at present existing. It is a large bugle, of an ox’s horn, ornamented with enchased silver, and suspended by a chain of the same metal, having the initials of his own name and family engraved at the end. Piers Gruffydd owned Penrhyn estate in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and joined the fleet of Sir Francis Drake, in a vessel which he purchased and equipped at his own cost. He was afterwards in the gallant action with the Spanish Armada. In the royal court of Cambria, there were legally three sorts of horns for the purpose of public or private libations. The first was _y corn ydd yuo y brenin_, or the one solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, _corn cyweithas_, by which the domestics of the palace were summoned to duty; and third, corn _y pencynydd_, committed to the custody of the chief huntsman. On grand occasions, the domestics of the palace were permitted to drink out of the sovereign’s horn; and the chamberlain or high steward, on such occasions, furnished handsome potations of the generous metheglin. The contents of the horn at these times assumed the name of the sacred potion, similar to the _wassail_ bowl, or the apostle’s cup, in use among the Saxons. Ulphus, when he conveyed certain lands to the church at York, is said to have quaffed off the contents of such a vessel, drinking a health, _Deo et sancto Petro_ (to God and St. Peter). On festive days, the imperative custom was to empty the horn at one tip, and instantly blow it, as a testimony that it had been thoroughly drained.

The improvements made by the late Lord Penrhyn in this very interesting parish and its flourishing neighbourhood were most comprehensive and important. The aspect of the country has, in fact, been thoroughly changed; and profitable employment found for thousands of the working population. About forty years ago, this part of the country bore a most wild, barren, and neglected appearance; but it is now covered with handsome villas, well-built farm-houses, neat cottages, rich meadows, well-cultivated fields, and flourishing plantations; bridges have been built, new roads made, bogs and swampy grounds drained and cultivated, neat fences raised, and barren rocks covered with woods.

Slate Quarries.

The slate quarries at Cae Braich-y-Cefn (about six from Bangor), in the vicinity of Nant Francon, the most considerable in Wales, are the property of the family of Penrhyn Castle. The rock has been opened at vast expense, and the quarries are worked with great judgment and enterprise. There are more than 2000 persons continually employed; and it is computed that about two hundred tons of slates are daily conveyed down to Port Penrhyn, whence they are exported to various parts of the kingdom, to Ireland, and to America. These quarries were discovered so far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth. In 1740 the slates were all of one size, and very small. But when Lord Penrhyn took the quarries into his own hands, about 1782, his lordship cleared the rubbish, which had been accumulating for ages, and opened these quarries in a judicious and scientific manner. His lordship also constructed an iron railway from the quarries to Port Penrhyn, a distance of six miles, which is said to have cost £170,000. The weekly wages now paid to the workmen engaged in these quarries amount to about £1700.

On the arrival of a visitor, he should, if possible, obtain permission to accompany one of the overlookers of the works in his round, rather than trust to the casual guidance of any idler who may be found lurking about with the intention to profer assistance; as the sole object of the latter is to procure payment, without giving himself much trouble in pointing out the wonders of the place. Should he be successful, the intelligent and communicative spirit of his guide will amply repay the difficulty he may have experienced in finding him.

He will be conducted to every ledge of the mountain, up an inclined plane, till he reaches the summit, and will have an opportunity of seeing the whole process of the slate manufacture. In one place he will discover the workmen aloft, suspended by ropes against the precipitous side of the rock, busily employed in splitting down every projecting shelf of the blue steganium; in another, persons employed in the laborious occupation of boring for the purpose of filling the orifice with gunpowder, to rend the rock from the immense mass to which it is attached; others occupied in removing the rubbish, of which so many years’ labour has produced a wonderful accumulation; and numbers in splitting the detached masses, and cutting them into a variety of sizes, denominated duchesses, countesses, ladies, &c. which names were bestowed by General Warburton about the year 1765. This process is executed with astonishing rapidity. Then may be heard the alarum shout, betokening that a fusee is lighted and will soon explode, warning those employed in the vicinity to secure themselves from danger; and in a few moments, the explosion itself rattles through the extensive levels with terrific grandeur. It cannot be expected that accidents amongst the workmen are of rare occurrence; on the contrary, they too frequently happen, for scarce a week passes without some poor fellows meeting with severe bodily injury; but this is solely attributed to their own negligence of the proper precaution.

Portions of the mountain are farmed by individuals, who pay a price consonant with the value or quality of the substratum, and employ workmen to remove and fit it for exportation; when they receive so much per thousand, in the same ratio, for their labour. There is a strong spring of water at the top of the mountain, which is conveyed by a large wooden pipe to the bottom, and there rendered serviceable in turning an immense cutting mill. A few hundred yards distant, also, are several mills of this description, where large pieces of rock are cut into grave-stones, and into the requisite sizes for roofing houses, and for the use of schools, &c.

St. Ann’s chapel, near the quarries, was erected and liberally endowed by the late Lord Penrhyn; and Lady Penrhyn left a sum for an organ, and a suitable stipend for the organist.—Within a short distance of the slate quarries is the charming cottage of the late Lady Penrhyn, called

Ogwen Bank.

It is now used by Mr. Pennant’s family as an occasional resort on paying a morning visit to the quarries, or other objects of curiosity in the neighbourhood. The style is florid Gothic, and shows great taste in the design. The centre contains an elegant room, the front of it forming a segment of a circle; the wings contain a coach house and stabling. Over the river Ogwen is a bridge corresponding with the architecture of the house. This beautiful cottage is hid from the road by the trees and plantation; Llwyd calls it “the Eden of the Mountains.”

Before quitting this remarkably interesting vicinity, we take leave to quote the following description from the graphic pen of Miss Costello:—

“From Bangor the lofty towers and turrets of Penrhyn Castle are conspicuous in the scenery, and have a very grand and imposing appearance, more so than any modern erection of the kind I ever saw. The building stands on a commanding height, and from its elevation has a magnificent view of Beaumaris Bay, and all the wide sweep of the sea, Puffin or Priestholm Island and a great part of Anglesea, the fine bold rock of the Great Orme’s Head, said to have once been dedicated to Serpent worship, and the range of the Caernarvonshire mountains.

“So stately, so massive, and so stupendous is this castle, that it scarcely seems the work of a modern architect; and if there had been more simplicity observed in its construction, it might well pass for a genuine Roman castle. The enormous profusion of ornament with which the doors, windows, staircases, halls, and ceilings are covered, betray the effort made to render that complete which would have been more so with less pains. The involved pillars, the redundant zigzags, the countless grotesque heads, of all sizes, grinning from all heights, the groves of slender columns, the circular arches, the semi-pointed arcades, form a maze of architecture such as never could have before, in any age, appeared on one spot.

“To wander through the wondrous halls of Penrhyn is like struggling along in a bewildered dream, occasioned by having studied some elaborate work on the early buildings of the Saxons and Normans. The eyes are dazzled and the mind confused with the quick succession of astonishing forms; but the result is rather wonder at the imagination or close copying of the artist, and at the enormous wealth which could repay such an exertion of skill, than admiration of the beauty created. Mona marble and fine stone furnish materials for all these sculptured treasures, and slate enters into much of the adornment; for close by are the famous slate-quarries, which have produced the enormous sums expended on this erection. In order to shew what can be done with slate, various articles of furniture are placed in the rooms occupying the places usually filled by carved wood and marble; chimney-pieces and tables of polished slate are seen, but the great triumph is a bedstead, beautifully carved, which, though far from elegant, is yet exceedingly curious.

“The library and drawing-rooms are very fine, and have even a comfortable appearance: all the house is gorgeously decorated, and all its laboured splendour announces such immense riches, that it seems as though the gnomes who work gold and silver in the neighbouring hills had all been made slaves of some potent lamp or ring, and had worked incessantly for years in the construction and adornment of the most gigantic mass of architecture that ever was beheld. There are, however, very few specimens of the higher order of art; a few portraits are to be found in one room, which are curious. In particular I was struck with a likeness of the celebrated Anne Clifford, of Cumberland, when a child: she is dressed in a stiff black dress, all over buttons and ornaments, and from under her arm peeps a hideous little dog. As, in her memoirs, she dwells a good deal on her own beauty, one cannot but smile at this comment on her vanity, for, unless the artist did her great injustice, she must have been a singularly ugly child. Two portraits of the Countess of Derby are remarkable: one has a child’s doll lying on a table near her, and in the other she is represented holding a feather fan, and covered and half smothered with elaborate ruffs which seem to bristle up in every part of her attire.

“The famous hirlas horn, belonging to an ancient Cambrian prince, the treasure of the castle, we had not an opportunity of seeing, as we found it was carefully locked up from public view. It held the same place as the Saxon wassail bowl, and it was customary that those who had the honour of drinking from it should empty the horn at one draught, and then blow it, to prove that they had performed the feat expected of them. One of the most picturesque objects on the way to the famous slate quarries, is the little mill of Coet Mor, whose wheel is turned by a rushing stream breaking wildly over heaps of rocks.

“The slate quarries of Penrhyn are situated near Nant Ffrancon, at a spot called Cae Braich-y-Cefn, and are exceedingly curious, and even picturesque. We were conducted over them by a very loquacious Irishman, the only person of his nation employed in the works, all the others being Welsh.

“Most of these places, where enormous labour produces enormous wealth, are to me displeasing to contemplate; but there is nothing here that conveys an idea of over-tasked workmen, no horrible underground toil and dark dungeon-like caves, where human creatures are condemned, like souls in penance for some hideous crime, to drag heavy weights and chains through frightful chasms, and delve and dig for ore in spaces not large enough for them to stand upright; here are no deadly vapours, no fatal gases mortal to humanity, all is wide and open in the pure light of day, high, and broad, and healthy. The mountain is cut into ridges of slate, and here and there the projecting edges have formed themselves into graceful shapes: in the very centre of the quarry rises a beautiful conical pillar of slate which the admiration of the workmen has spared, now that their labours have brought it to the shape which it bears. It is a great ornament to the area, and it is to be regretted that in time it must fall, as the slate of which it is composed happens to be of the purest kind. The huts of the workmen scattered over the quarry have a singular effect, and the wild aspect of the men accords well with their abodes. The thundering sound produced by the occasional blasting of the rock is very grand, as it rolls and echoes amongst the caves, and along the heights; and the grey masses glowing in the sun, and reflecting the sky through their rents, have an imposing aspect.”

In July, 1844, the King of Saxony made a tour through England and Wales; a narrative of which, written by His Majesty’s Physician, Dr. Carus, has been published in the present year (1846). From that journal of the royal travels, we extract the subjoined passages—which may serve to show the impressions made upon the mind of an intelligent though somewhat prejudiced foreigner, by the more striking objects of interest in this locality.

“As the road approaches Bangor, it runs near the sea, and brings us close to the end of one of the most extraordinary structures of modern times—the vast iron suspension bridge which forms the junction between the mainland and the island, universally known and celebrated as the Menai Bridge.