Part 5

Bangor, (from ban côr, the high and beautiful choir,) is a small but neatly built town, and the most ancient see in the Principality. Its present population, 7232. It has been much improved within the last few years, especially since the erection of the Menai Bridge, which has attracted numerous visitors anxious to see one of the finest works of human skill, though still inconsiderable in comparison with its importance in ancient times, when it was denominated Bangor Vawr, or the Great Bangor, probably to distinguish it from Bangor Is-y-coed in Flintshire. The town is delightfully situated in a sheltered vale, between two high ridges of slate rock, at the mouth of the Menai Straits, of which it commands a beautiful prospect.

Bangor and its environs have the advantage of an almost inexhaustible diversity of walks, rides, and sea excursions; and in addition to these highly interesting facilities, several new roads and path-ways have recently been completed and generously thrown open to the public by the spirited proprietors of the Pen’r-allt estate, who disposed of that valuable property to various persons, for the erection of villas, ornamental marine residences, lodging houses, and public baths.

Garth-point, the eastern extremity of the Pen’r-allt property, a short distance from the city, where a ferry crosses to the Anglesea shore, is unrivalled for the sublimity, picturesque beauty, and variety of its surrounding objects, consisting of an immense expanse of seas, mountains, lowlands, and plantations. To the left, on the Anglesea coast, are seen an extensive sloping wood and a pretty marine cottage, forming part of the domain of Baron Hill, the splendid mansion of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart. M.P.; the town, castle, church, and bay of Beaumaris; and about five miles further, to the north-east, Puffin or Priestholm Island, with its tower and semaphore. To the right, on the Caernarvonshire coast, the majestic promontory of Great Orme’s Head (abounding with copper ore) stands boldly forward, apparently isolated, its rugged front protruding like a rocky fortress into the sea, to guard the entrance to the Menai Straits; Little Orme’s Head, Conway Bay, Penmaen Bâch, Pen-dyffryn, the residence of Sir Chas. Smith; Penmaen Mawr, Bryn-y-neuadd, the seat of John Wynne, Esq.; Prince Llywelyn’s Tower, the Pass, village and church of Aber, the property of Sir Richard Bulkeley. To the south-east of which appear, in pre-eminent height and grandeur, the cloud-capt Carnedd Llywelyn and Carnedd Dafydd, in “Snowdon’s Alpine range;” Penrhyn Castle, the superb mansion of the Hon. Col. Douglas Pennant, M.P.; Port Penrhyn with its numerous shipping; the spacious Penrhyn Arms Inn and pleasure grounds; Hirael quay and shore; forming altogether, in one expansive view, a glorious panorama of at least thirty miles in circuit.

At the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai, a commodious harbour has been formed, called Port Penrhyn, which is capable of admitting and securing vessels of three hundred tons burden. The quay is upwards of three hundred yards long, and an immense tonnage of slates brought by railway from the quarries about six miles distant, is thence shipped to all parts of the world. A neat stone bridge over the river Cegid connects the quay with the city. The market at Bangor is held on Friday.

There are several excellent inns, where the traveller will find the best accommodations, as well as post-chaises and cars, with “good horses and careful drivers.” The Penrhyn Arms Hotel, a short distance from the town, is really a princely establishment, on an extensive and admirable scale of management. The Castle, Liverpool Arms, and Royal Oak inns, have also a good reputation.

The following extract from Dr. Johnson’s diary, when he visited this city in 1774, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, will exhibit the progress of improvement at Bangor in a very advantageous point of light:—“At evening (says he) the moon shone eminently bright, and our thoughts of danger (on passing Penmaen Mawr) being now past, the rest of our journey was very pleasant. At an hour somewhat late, we came to Bangor, where we found _a very mean inn_, _and had some difficulty of obtaining a lodging_. _I lay in a room where the other bed had two men_.” What a contrast to the splendid accommodation now obtainable by tourists at this popular watering-place! Within the last twenty years, the population has been quadrupled, almost all the town built or rebuilt, all the old roads altered or widened, and new ones formed in the direction of London and Holyhead.

The facilities for travelling are abundant:—In summer there are steam-packets everyday to and from Liverpool; and in winter, two or three every week. The London mail passes through Bangor each way every day, also the Chester and Liverpool mail; and besides these, there are daily coaches to London, Chester, Liverpool, Caernarvon, Pwllheli, and Barmouth.

Three banks have been recently established at Bangor, one of which is a branch of the Chester bank of Messrs. Williams and Co., at the Cottage, the bottom of Waterloo-street; another, a branch of the North and South Wales bank, in High-street, nearly opposite the Market-place; and the third, a branch of the National Provincial, in the same street. By the Reform Act, Bangor was made a contributory borough in returning a member of parliament for Caernarvon; W. B. Hughes, Esq. is the present member.

The Cathedral

stands on a low piece of ground near the centre of the town, and externally has but a humble appearance. It was founded about 525, by Daniel, son of Dinothus, abbot of Bangor Is-y-coed, in Flintshire, under the auspices of Maelgwm Gwynedd, king of Wales, founder of Penmon, patron of Taliesin, and the most liberal prince of his time, though much abused by Gildas, who calls him Insularum Draco, because he resisted the innovations which Pope Gregory wished to introduce into the British church by means of Augustine the monk, and which gave rise to the denunciatory ode of Taliesin—

“Gwa ’r offeiriaid mud.”

The mother church suffered greatly at different periods during the civil commotion. It was destroyed in 1071, but soon afterwards rebuilt; and in 1212, when King John invaded the country, having passed Conway, he halted at Aber, and sent part of his army to burn Bangor. The city was destroyed, and Robert of Shrewsbury, then bishop of that see, carried prisoner to the English camp. He was afterwards ransomed for two hundred hawks. The prelate was, however, suffered to remain here, although incapable of performing his duty effectively, on account of his ignorance of the language of the people. At his death, in accordance with his own request, he was interred in the market-place at Shrewsbury. He was the original compiler of the wonderful legend of St. Winifrede, afterwards enlarged by Bishop Fleetwood. In the year 1402, the sacred edifice was again reduced to ruin by the rage of Owen Glyndwr (who was infuriated by his wrongs and sufferings), and lay in ruins ninety years, when the choir was restored by Bishop Deane or Deny. The body and tower now existing were built by Bishop Skeffington in 1532.

Some considerable improvements were completed in the cathedral in 1827, by the outlay of £2000 from the tithes of Llanddinam, in Montgomeryshire, appropriated by an act of James the Second, 1685, for the repairs of Bangor cathedral, and £2000 collected in different parts of the united kingdom, by the praiseworthy and indefatigable exertions of the Rev. J. H. Cotton, LL.B., then precentor and senior vicar, but now dean, the whole of which has been expended in the most advantageous manner, under his superintendence, and will remain a lasting monument of his zeal and perseverance. Some years ago, the citizens of Bangor originated a subscription to this estimable dignitary, in acknowledgment of the many good services he had rendered to the city and neighbourhood. The worthy dean, with his characteristic regard for the fabrics as well as the doctrines of the church, devoted the sum to the ornamenting the cathedral with a splendid painted window,—a lasting memorial of the respect and veneration in which he is held, and of his praiseworthy disinterestedness.

The bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian, bishop of the diocese in the reign of Edward the First, who, being in high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had, as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of Henry the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of the Principality, allotted to the see.

Here was anciently a parish church, built in 975, by king Edgar, situated about 400 yards north-east of the cathedral, and called Llanvair Edward Vrenin. Bishop Skeffington, in Henry the Eighth’s time, caused it to be taken down, and repaired the present church with the materials. Here, likewise, near the sea shore, Tudor ab Gronwy, of Penmynydd and Tre’r Castell, in Anglesea, founded a house of Black Friars, and was interred there in 1311. In an old monody to this individual are the following lines:—

For Tudor dead, the tears incessant flow, And Bangor suffers in the general woe.

The free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey Glynn, upon the site of this building. It has long enjoyed reputation as a training seminary for Oxford, Cambridge, and Trinity College, Dublin. The environs are well cultivated and picturesque, and are interspersed with handsome residences, amongst which is that of the bishop’s palace.

On the summit of a steep rock, opposite Friars’ School, are to be traced the remains of an ancient castle, supposed to have been built by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, in the reign of Henry the Second. Several pieces of scoria have been found on the spot, which leave no doubt that arrows have been manufactured there at some very distant period. On the extreme height of the opposite hill, at the back of Friars’ School, are the remains of a British encampment, on an extensive scale, of more ancient date than the preceding. These interesting objects will be found, on investigation, well worthy the notice of the antiquary. It is conjectured, that the British encampment alluded to, communicated, to the southward, with Dinas Dinorwic, near Llandeiniolen, as that renowned British station is distinctly seen from this spot; and also with another to the east, called Braich-y-Ddinas, situate on the summit of Penmaen Mawr.

An elegant Roman Catholic chapel has recently been erected in the suburbs of the city, on the Caernarvon road.

Pleasant excursions may be made from Bangor to Conway, Caernarvon, Beaumaris, Amlwch, Plâs Newydd, Aber, Port Penrhyn, Priestholm or Puffin Island, Penrhyn Castle, the Llandegai slate quarries, and Snowdon. In fact, the locality abounds with objects of natural beauty and historical interest.

Great Suspension Bridge.

Within about two miles from Bangor, near the spot where the old ferry was, stands that stupendous monument of human skill, the MENAI BRIDGE.

The erection of this bridge was for several years in contemplation before it was finally determined upon. In 1810 and 1811, several plans were submitted to a committee of the House of Commons, and particularly one in the latter year, by Mr. Telford, proposing a bridge of cast iron, the expense of which was estimated at £127,000; but the difficulty of fixing a proper centring, owing to the rocky bottom of the channel, and the depth and rapidity of the tide-way, caused this project to be abandoned. In 1818, a new plan was presented by the same engineer, for a bridge on the suspension principle. In developing this plan, Mr. Telford remarks, “The iron hanging bridge over the Menai to consist of one opening of 560 feet between the points of suspension; in addition to which there are to be seven arches, four on the coast of Anglesea, and three on that of Caernarvonshire, each 60 feet in the span, making the total length of the bridge 910 feet; the height above the level of high water line to be 100 feet. The road-way will embrace two carriage ways, each twelve feet in breadth, with a foot-path of four feet between them. The whole is to be suspended from four lines of strong iron cables, by perpendicular iron rods placed five feet apart, and these rods will support the road-way framing. The suspending power is calculated at 2016 tons, and the weight to be suspended, exclusive of the cables, is 343 tons, leaving a disposable power of 1674 tons.

“The four sides of the road-ways will be made of framed iron work, firmly bound together for seven feet in height, and there will be a similar work for five feet in depth below the cables. The weight of the whole bridge between the points of suspension will be 489 tons. The abutments will consist of the masonry, comprising the extreme stone-work, the two piers, and the seven arches before mentioned: each of the two piers will be 60 feet by 40½ wide at high water mark, having a foundation of rock. Upon the summit of the two main piers, will be erected a frame of cast-iron work, of a pyramidal form, for the purpose of raising the cables from which the bridge is to be suspended.” The probable cost of erecting this structure Mr. Telford estimated at £60,000, or, allowing for any unforeseen charges, at most £70,000, about one-fourth of the calculated expense of the cast-iron bridge on the old plan.

The following particulars we extract from Dr. Pring’s Narrative of the Grand Menai Suspension Bridge, published immediately on its completion. “The first stone of this national bridge was laid without any ceremony on the 10th August, 1820, by Mr. Provis, resident engineer. On the 26th April, 1825, the first chain of this stupendous work was thrown over the straits of Menai, in the presence of an immense concourse of people. At half-past two o’clock, it then being about half flood tide, the raft prepared for the occasion, stationed on the Caernarvonshire side, near Treborth mill, which supported the part of the chain intended to be drawn over, began to move gradually from its moorings, towed by four boats, with the assistance of the tide, to the centre of the river, between the two grand piers. When the raft was adjusted, and brought to its ultimate situation, it was made fast to several buoys, anchored in the channel for that purpose. A part of the chain, pending from the apex of the suspending pier on the Caernarvonshire side down nearly to high-water mark, was then made fast by a bolt, to the part of the chain laying on the raft; which operation was completed in ten minutes.

“The next process was the fastening of the other extremity of the chain on the raft to two blocks of immense size and power, for the purpose of hoisting it up to its intended station, the apex of the suspension pier on the Anglesea side. When the blocks were made secure to the chain (comprising 25 tons weight of iron), two capstans, and also, two preventive capstans, commenced working, each capstan being propelled by thirty-two men. To preserve an equal tenison in the rotatory evolutions of the two principal capstans, two fifers played several enlivening tunes, to keep the men regular in their steps, for which purpose they had been previously trained. At this critical and interesting juncture, the attention of every one present seemed rivetted to the novel spectacle: the chain rose majestically, and the gratifying sight was enthusiastically enjoyed by all present in ‘breathless silence!’ At ten minutes before five o’clock, the final bolt was fixed, which completed the whole line of chain, and the happy event was hailed by the hearty acclamations of the spectators. Not the least accident, delay, or failure, occurred in any department during the whole of the operation. From the moving of the raft to the uniting of the chain, only two hours and twenty-five minutes transpired. Upon the completion of the chain, three of the workmen passed along its upper surface, which forms a curvature of 590 feet; the versed sine of the arch is 43 feet. The sixteenth chain, completing the whole line of suspension, was curried over on the 9th of July following.

“The general opening of the bridge took place on Monday, January 30th, 1826. The royal London and Holyhead mail coach, carrying the London mail-bag for Dublin, passed over at one o’clock, A.M. and the first carriage that passed was that of Augustus Elliott Fuller, Esq., one of the commissioners, drawn by four beautiful greys; the first stage coach was the Pilot, a Bangor and Caernarvon day coach; the first London stage coach was the Oxonian. These were followed by the carriage of Sir David Erskine, Bart., late proprietor of the ferry, drawn by four elegant greys, decorated with ribbons, and by several gentlemen’s carriages, landaus, gigs, cars, &c. and a long train of horsemen. Numerous flags were flying; and cannons, stationed on each side of the bridge, were discharged at intervals during the day.

“The dimensions of the bridge are as follows:—The extreme length of the chain, from the fastenings in the rock, is about 1715 feet; the height of the road-way from high water line, is 100 feet; each of the seven small piers from high water line to the spring of the arches, is 65 feet; the span of each arch is 52½ feet. Each of the suspending piers is 53 feet above the road; the roads on the bridge consist of two carriage-ways of 12 feet each, with a foot-path of four feet in the centre; the length of the suspended part of the road from pier to pier is 553 feet; the carriage-road passes through two arches in the suspending piers, of the width of 9 feet by 15 feet in height to the spring of the arches. To counteract the contraction and expansion of the iron from the effects of the change of the atmosphere, a set of rollers are placed under cast-iron saddles on the top of the suspending piers where the chains rest; the vertical rods an inch square, suspended from the chains, support the sleepers for the flooring of the road-way, the rods being placed 5 feet from each other. The chains, sixteen in number, consist of five bars each; length of the bars 10 feet, width 3 inches by 1 inch, with six connecting lengths at each joint, 1 foot 4 inches by 8 inches, and 1 inch thick, secured by two bolts at each joint, each bolt weighing about 50 pounds; and the total number of the bars in the cross-section of the chain is 80. The total weight of iron-work is 4,373,281 pounds.”

The pen and pencil of genius have frequently been employed to delineate the Menai Bridge, and whatever difference of taste may have prevailed in determining the character of the various sketches, all writers have been unanimous in their admiration of the intellect which could devise, and the skill which could erect this magnificent and astonishing structure. The approach by water has been thus described:—“When, on entering the straits, the bridge is first seen suspended as it were in mid air, and confining the view of the fertile and richly wooded shores, it seems more like a light ornament than a massy bridge, and shews little of the strength and solidity which it really possesses. But as we approached it nearer, whilst it still retained its light and elegant appearance, the stupendous size and immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we saw that a brig, with every stick standing, had just passed under it—that a coach going over it appeared not larger than a child’s toy—and that foot passengers upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its proportions was by contrast fully apparent.”

Another tourist gives the subjoined outline, while surveying the attractive object on the spot:—“Having landed by means of boats on the Anglesea side, we proceeded to the bridge, the visiting of which is a new era in the lives of those who have not before had that pleasure, and is a renewed luxury to those who have seen it again and again. Our party walked over the bridge slowly, because there was something to be admired at every step;—the effect of a passing carriage; the vibration caused even by a hand applied to the suspending rods; the depth to the level of the water; the fine view of the straits in both directions; the lofty pillar erected in honour of the Marquis of Anglesea; the diminutive appearance of persons on the shore; the excellence and strength of the workmanship; the beauty of the arches over the road through the suspension piers, and the echo in them; all conspired to delight and to detain us. Many of our party then went down the steep bank to the foot of the bridge, from which point, certainly, the best view is to be had of the whole structure, inasmuch as by being in contact, as it were, with its proportions on _terra firma_, a better idea can be formed of its real, and indeed wonderful dimensions. We actually lingered about the spot careless of time, or of aught but the scene we were contemplating.”

From the Suspension Bridge to Beaumaris, the road is exquisitely beautiful: it follows the line of the winding and indented shore of the Menai: now commanding an extensive view of the noble bay, and its lofty encircling mountains—now entering the woods of Baron Hill, scarcely protected from the precipice, the base of which is washed by the waves, which are heard chafing against the rock below—again it emerges from the woods, and the whole glorious panorama bursts on the sight: the beautiful town of Beaumaris lying at your feet, whilst the Ormeshead, Penmaen Mawr, the Nant Francon mountains, and the more distant range of Snowdonia, with Penrhyn Castle and Bangor, terminating with nature’s great rival, the Bridge, form a prospect of remarkable beauty and sublimity.

The Menai Straits, which separate Anglesea from the main land, although bearing the appearance of a river, are formed by an arm of the sea; the navigation of which is peculiarly dangerous at particular times of the tide, and in stormy weather. At each extremity, during the flood, it has a double current, from the concussion of which, termed Pwll Ceris, it is perilous to encounter it; and so tremendous are the storms with which the straits are occasionally disturbed, that before the erection of the Menai Bridge, a tempestuous day has been sufficient to suspend the intercourse of England with Ireland, the high road to which, _via_ Holyhead, lies through Anglesea. Within the range of the coast, a distance of about fifteen miles, there are six ferries; the first of which, to the south, is Aber-Menai, nearly opposite Caernarvon, and the sixth, and widest at high water, is between the village of Aber and Beaumaris.

Nicholson, in his Cambrian Guide, says, “There appears but little doubt of Anglesea having been once connected with the main land, as evident traces of an isthmus are discernible near Porthaethwy ferry; where a dangerous line of rocks nearly crosses the channel, and causes such eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the contending currents of the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority. This isthmus once destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work of ages, by the force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and enlarge the opening.” In support of this hypothesis, the author of Beaumaris Bay quotes the following historical facts:—“In the year 61, the Roman infantry, under Suetonius, crossed the Menai on a bridge of boats, to Pant-yr-Ysgraffiau (the inlet of the skiffs) under Porthamael, while the cavalry forded it below Llanidan. Edward the First also crossed the strait in the same manner at Moel-y-don, but suffered severely from an unfortunate attack, on the return of the tide; several of his leading warriors now lying in the chapel of the Friary, near Beaumaris.”

Railway Bridge across the Menai.