Part 3

Abergele, {8} a market town, is pleasantly situated on the great Chester and Holyhead road, on the edge of Rhuddlan marsh, and about a mile from the sea shore. The church is ancient, with a plain uninteresting tower, which the white-washing hand of modern “improvement” has deprived of all pretensions to the picturesque. The town consists only of one long street; and in 1841, its population, with the parish, was returned at 2661.

The coast is composed of firm hard sands, affording delightful drives for many miles. Tradition says, the sea has in old time overflowed a vast tract of inhabited country, once extending at least three miles northward; as an evidence of which, a dateless epitaph, in Welsh, on the church-yard wall, is cited, which is thus translated: “In this church yard lies a man who lived three miles to the north of it.” There is, however, much stronger proof in the fact, that at low water may be seen, at a distance from the clayey bank, a long tract of hard loam, in which are imbedded numerous bodies of oak trees, tolerably entire, but so soft as to cut with a knife as easily as wax: the wood is collected by the poorer people, and, after being brought to dry upon the beach, is used as fuel.

The salubrity of the air, the pleasantness of situation, and the superiority of its shore for sea-bathing, have rendered this town a favourite resort for genteel company, and it has long been a fashionable watering place. The environs are picturesque, the scenery beautiful, and many interesting excursions may be made from this locality. The Bee Hotel, one of the best in the kingdom, is a most comfortable house, and possesses superior accommodations; and there are some excellent private lodgings to be had in the town: for those who would prefer a more immediate contiguity to the sea, there are cottages close to the beach, fit for respectable families, and apartments may be had from farmers, who are in the habit of accommodating visitors for the summer season. Bateman Jones, Esq. has a handsome residence on the road between the town and the beach. Besides the Chester and Holyhead and other mails that pass through Abergele, there is an omnibus which runs daily to Voryd, to meet the Liverpool and Rhyl steam-packet.

The pretty villages of Bettws and Llanfair are in this immediate neighbourhood: near the former is Coed Coch, the residence of J. Ll. Wynn, Esq. Llanfair is most picturesquely situated on the Elwy, a little way above its conflux with the Aled. Close to the village is Garthewin, the sylvan residence of Brownlow W. Wynne, Esq. embowered in trees; and following up the Elwy and its narrow but beautiful valley, is the village of Llangerniew; near to it is Llyn Elwy, the pool from which issues and gives name to the river Elwy. Havod-unos, about a quarter of a mile from the village, is the seat of S. Sandbach, Esq. an eminent Liverpool merchant, who some time ago purchased it and the estate, once the property of a long list of _ap Llwyds_. Two or three miles to the south-east, lies the village of Llansannan, at the head of the pretty vale of Aled. Close below the village is the elegant modern mansion of the Yorkes, called Dyffryn Aled: it is built of Bath free stone, and presents a very beautiful and classical structure. These are places a little out of the common track of tourists, but they will not be disappointed at visiting them; and from Abergele is the most convenient start to them. The roads are good; the country very beautiful; trout fishing is excellent in the Elwy and Aled from their sources, the Aled and Elwy pools, to Rhuddlan; and the villages afford very good passing-by accommodations.

On the hills above Abergele, grow some of the more uncommon plants; geranium sanguineum, rubia peregrina, halloboris fœtidus. In the shady wood, paris quadrifolia, and ophrys nidus avis; and on the beach, glaucium luteum, and eryngium maritimum abundantly. The hills are interesting to the geologist as well as to the botanist; and command remarkably grand and extensive views of the ocean, and of the adjacent mountain scenery.

About a mile from Abergele, on the left of the road towards Conway, stands Gwrych Castle, a modern castellated mansion, the property and residence of Henry Lloyd Bamford Hesketh, Esq. The situation is admirably chosen for a magnificent sea view, which, owing to the constant passing of vessels for the ports of Liverpool and Chester, is extremely beautiful and animated. Very near to this singular but ambitious looking structure, is a huge calcareous rock, called Cefn-yr-Ogo (or the Back of the Cavern), an inexhaustible mine of limestone, where a multitude of labourers are constantly employed in blasting the rock, and breaking the masses, which are exported to Liverpool and other places. But what chiefly renders it curious is the circumstance of a number of natural caverns penetrating its side in different places; one of which, called Ogo (or the Cavern), is well worth a visit. It is celebrated in history as having once afforded a place of retreat to a British army. Its mouth resembles the huge arched entrance of a Gothic cathedral. A few feet within this, and immediately in the centre of it, a rock rising from the floor to the lofty roof, not unlike a massive pillar rudely sculptured, divides the cavern into two apartments. The hollow to the left soon terminates; but that to the right spreads into a large chamber, 30 feet in height, and stretching to a greater depth than human curiosity has ever been hardy enough to explore. Making a short turn a few yards from the entrance, and sweeping into the interior of the mountain, the form and dimension of the abyss are concealed in impenetrable darkness, and its windings can only be followed about forty yards with prudence, when the light totally disappears, and the flooring becomes both dirty and unsafe. Stalactites of various fanciful forms decorate the fretted roof and sides of this extraordinary cavern. {10}

From Cave Hill (Cefn-yr-Ogo), is an extensive and varied prospect. The city of St. Asaph, the Vale of Clwyd, the mountains of Flintshire, and in clear weather, a portion of Cheshire and Lancashire, with the town of Liverpool, are distinctly seen to the eastward; and to the north is visible the Isle of Man; to the west, the Island of Anglesea; and to the south-west, the mountains of Caernarvonshire. Just below is the small village of

Llanddulas.

In this little village or glen it is supposed that Richard the Second was surrounded and taken by a band of ruffians, secreted by the Earl of Northumberland, for the purpose of forcing him into the hands of Bolingbroke, who was at Flint. Here enterprise has discovered the means of realizing wealth. A railway, several miles long, has been constructed from the sea to Llysfaen limestone rocks, being on a remarkably steep incline down the side of the mountain. It is a stupendous work, and highly creditable to the projector, Mr. Jones.

About two miles nearer Conway, is the increasing and respectable village of Colwyn. A new church has lately been erected here. Glan-y-don, the seat of H. Hesketh, Esq., is in this neighbourhood; Mr. Wynne and Dr. Cumming have cottages here, and many other genteel residences have recently been built. The sea bathing is very good, and the place is pleasant and salubrious. Up the valley, to the left of the bridge, is the village of Llanelian, with its calm green meadows, and its far-famed holywell, or Ffynan Fair.

Returning to Abergele, and at the opposite end, is a good and direct road to Rhuddlan, through a number of excellent and extensive corn farms. The road crosses the celebrated Morva Rhuddlan (or Rhuddlan Marsh).

About three miles on the St. Asaph road is the neat and clean little village of

St. George, or Llan Saint Sior; {12}

And about a quarter of a mile before you come to it, you pass on your right Pen-y-Parc Hill, on the top of which is a Roman encampment, afterwards occupied by the famous Owen Gwynedd, during his struggles against English encroachments; and it was here he pitched his tents after his “fine retreat before Henry the Second, whom he here kept at bay.” The curious may visit it from the village, inquiring for Park Meirch, _where the old battles were fought_. And close to this place is Dinorben, an ancient manor-house, from which is the title of Lord Dinorben, whose residence, Kinmel Park, is a little beyond, and close to the village. About six years since the mansion was destroyed by fire; but has now been rebuilt in a style of princely elegance, and has once more become the home of that hospitality for which the respected proprietor is famous. The park is finely wooded and well stocked with deer. The scenery from the house is rich, varied, and beautiful; the gardens and grounds are extensive, and tastefully laid out. His royal highness, the Duke of Sussex, for several years before his death, annually spent some weeks at Kinmel in the shooting season.

The church at St. George is a neat structure, and has recently been restored by Lord Dinorben, the patron. In the church-yard is a costly stone mausoleum, in the Gothic style, erected over the remains of Lady Dinorben, a lady beloved for her virtues, and eminent for her charities. The architect was Mr. Jones, of Chester: the design and workmanship are chaste and elegant.

Not far from Kinmel, towards St. Asaph, is Bodelwyddan, the modern elegant mansion of Sir John Hay Williams, Bart., one of the most lovely spots in Wales; and in the plain below is Pengwern, the hospitable seat of Lord Mostyn.

ABERYSTWYTH, (_Cardiganshire_.)

Aberdovey 11 Devil’s Bridge 12 Llanidloes 30 London, by Ross 217 Machynlleth 18

[It may be necessary to apprise the reader, that though this work is professedly a description of North Wales ONLY, it has been thought advisable to deviate from the letter of its title, so far as to include within its pages the above distinguished town, and that great and attractive curiosity, the Devil’s Bridge; both of which, situated in Cardiganshire, the North Wales tourist usually visits, the town being only 18 miles beyond Machynlleth, and the cataract the same distance from Llanidloes.]

Aberystwyth has long been esteemed a fashionable watering place; the gently sloping beach, the clearness of the water, and the salubriousness of the air, have all conspired to render it an inviting spot for sea-bathing; and within the last few years, the efforts of art have been sedulously employed in seconding the works of nature, by furnishing to its visitants excellent roads, superior accommodations, and suitable buildings for fashionable amusements. Pleasant walks have also been formed in the environs. The town, which owes its origin to the erection of the castle, is described by Leland as having been encompassed by walls, (the last remains of which were removed some years since,) and as being in his time a better market than Cardigan; and Camden, who ascribes the building of its walls to Gilbert de Clare, earl of Strongbow, states, that it was then the most populous town in the county. Since that time it has materially increased, both in extent and importance, and may be still regarded as the most flourishing place in this part of South Wales, its population in 1841 being returned at 4916. It is pleasantly situated at the lower extremity of the valley of Rheidiol, amid lofty hills, and on a bold eminence overlooking the bay of Cardigan, by which it is bounded on one side, while on the other it is environed by the Rheidiol, over which is a stone bridge of five arches, forming an entrance to it from the south.

The houses are in general well built, and of respectable appearance, several of them being large and handsome, especially such as are of modern erection, which are entirely of stone. The streets are disposed with considerable regularity, and well paved and macadamised. The inhabitants are supplied with water from the river Rheidiol, which is brought into the town on carriages in the form of small carts, drawn by one horse, each holding two barrels, and sold at a low rate. About the commencement of the last century, it began to rise into notice as a bathing-place, and from a series of progressive improvements, is now one of the most frequented places of fashionable resort on this part of the coast.

The beach affords a pleasant and interesting walk; and the shore, consisting of lofty and precipitous rocks of dark-coloured slate, is worn by the action of the waves into caverns of romantic and picturesque appearance. The beach is composed of fine pebbles, among which are found many valuable stones; the water in consequence is always peculiarly clear, and uncontaminated with any admixtures. In sandy situations, the contrary is frequently the case. The fine stones are picked up with great avidity by the numerous visitors residing here in the summer months, and afford ample employment to several lapidaries in the town. Hot sea-water, vapour, and medicated baths are provided with every requisite accommodation; several bathing machines are in attendance, and from the convenient sloping of the beach, a facility of bathing is afforded at almost any state of the tide, within a very short distance of the shore. For the reception of the increasing number of visitors, many additional lodging-houses have been built, of which the Marine Terrace, a handsome range of modern buildings suitable for private families, is situated on the margin of the bay, commanding a fine marine view. The Belle Vue is a spacious and commodious hotel; in front of which is a fine promenade. On the south-west of the Marine Terrace, is a gateway leading to a spacious castellated mansion, called the Castle-house, commanding an extensive view across the bay: it was originally built as a private mansion by the late Sir Uvedale Price, Bart. of Foxley hall, Herefordshire, and consists of three octagonal towers, connected by ranges of apartments, and having a light and elegant balcony on the side towards the sea. Beyond this, on one side is the Castle Hill, crowned with the venerable ruins of an ancient fortress, and forming another favourite promenade, affording from different points various extensive, romantic, and interesting views of the sea, the neighbouring hills, and the surrounding country.

On the other side of the Castle Hill, separated only by the churchyard, are the new public rooms, handsomely built in the Grecian style of architecture, on ground given by W. E. Powell, Esq., of Nant Eös, from a design by Mr. Repton, at an expense of £2000, raised by subscription in shares of £10 each, and opened to the public in 1820. The suite consists of a very handsome assembly and promenade room, a card-room and a billiard-room. There is a good library in the new market-place; a new theatre has been built on the north parade, and was opened for the first time in the summer of 1833. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, was built by subscription in the year 1787: it is a plain structure, situated within the precincts of the castle, and separated from the walks along the ruins of that edifice by a stone wall erected at the expense of the inhabitants. A gallery was erected in the church at its western end in the year 1790, at an expense of £104 14s., which was defrayed by Mrs. Margaret Pryce. The service is performed in the morning and evening in the English language, and in the afternoon in Welsh; there is likewise service on the evenings of Wednesday in the English, and on the Thursday in the Welsh language.

The augmented population of this place, and the increasing number of visitors during the season, having rendered the erection of another place of worship necessary, a church or chapel has been recently built upon a large scale by subscription, after a plan by Mr. Haycock, of Shrewsbury, in the modern Gothic style, at an expense of £3600, including a grant of £1000 from the parliamentary commissioners, and £400 from the society for the enlargement of churches and chapels: it was consecrated in September, 1833. The parish church is situated at Llanbadarn, at about a mile distant from the town. There is a peculiarity regarding the grave-stones at this place: they are generally fixed in a stack of bricks built up for the purpose, and white-washed, the tablet appearing in front. The surface of the grave is usually paved with a kind of small marble stones, which are found in abundance on the beach. There are also several places of worship for dissenters. Aberystwyth likewise possesses the advantage of a chalybeate spring, situate at a very short distance east of the town. This spring was discovered by a kind of accident in 1779. It is highly spoken of, as containing valuable medicinal properties, and much resembling the Tunbridge waters; but it is always advisable that a physician should be consulted as to the season and extent of its use. To complete the circle of attractions which this interesting place presents, the annual races are here rising into repute; these usually take place in August, in a field near Gogerddan, about three miles from the town. Archery and cricket clubs have also been established, and are upheld with great spirit; and here the lovers of angling may be gratified with their favourite diversion. The Ystwyth and the Rheidiol are in the immediate vicinity; the autumnal fishing for salmon and sewin is excellent; and within a day’s excursion, a variety of lake-fishing will afford capital sport.

Aberystwyth contains many interesting relics of antiquity, and was evidently in the “olden time,” a place of some renown, as well as a scene of some of the unhappy troubles which darkened the reign of Charles the First.

In queen Elizabeth’s reign a company of Germans reaped a large fortune in working the silver mines in the vicinity of this town. Sir Hugh Myddleton, after them, was equally successful, and accumulated £2000 a month out of one silver mine at Bwlch yr Eskir, which enabled him (in 1614) to bring the new river to London. He, again, was succeeded by Mr. Bushell, a servant of Sir Francis Bacon, who also gained such immense profits, that he made Charles the First a present of a regiment of horse, and clothed his whole army; he also furnished the king with a loan of £40,000, which was considered as a gift to supply his necessities; and when that unfortunate monarch was pressed, his devoted subject raised a regiment among his miners at his own charge.

On Pen Dinas, a very high and steep hill, near the bridge over the Rheidiol, is a large entrenchment, still in a good state of preservation, and where, Caradoc informs us, Rhŷs ap Gruffydd, in 1113, encamped his forces, which, by a manœuvre of the English, were enticed from the hill over the bridge, to besiege Aberystwyth castle, where they were surrounded and cut off almost to a man. The tradition of the town attributes this entrenchment to the forces employed by Cromwell to besiege the castle. Opposite this, on a hill at the extremity of the town, are two other entrenchments, in a bad state of preservation and destitute of the tumuli or barrows, often found contiguous to such vestiges in Wales.

Aberystwyth is a place of considerable trade; but the harbour, being a bar harbour, is of uncertain and often dangerous navigation, and frequently choked up, until the land freshes come down, after heavy falls of rain, and force a passage. The trustees, acting under the harbour act passed in 1780, being empowered to raise the sum of £4000 for its improvement, upon mortgage of the dues, and seeing the necessity of doing something more effectually than the works they were occasionally enabled to erect by the expenditure of the annual revenues, which were constantly being swept away by the sea, determined upon employing that eminent engineer and hydrographer, the late Mr. Nimmo, to survey the harbour, and to give his report thereon. The report having been published, by which it appeared that a sum of £10,000 was necessary to carry his suggestions into effect; a committee was formed, who issued a prospectus, soliciting subscriptions from those disposed to aid them in the accomplishment of so desirable an object, and the following munificent donations were immediately made: the Duke of Newcastle, £1000; the Earl of Lisburne, £500; Colonel Powell, M.P. £500; Pryce Pryce, Esq. M.P. £500. The works have since been completed.

The walks and drives in the vicinity are numerous and engaging; and from the number of eminences by which the town is environed on the land side, views the most varied and interesting present themselves to the lover of the picturesque. From the summit of Pen Dinas, he at once beholds three beautiful valleys, with the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidiol winding their devious course on either side beneath his feet. On turning round, he is gratified with a magnificent view of the expansive bay of Cardigan, with its bold coast stretching out on either hand to the extremity of Cardiganshire on the southern side, and that of Caernarvon on the northern; the latter embracing within its range the rocky ridge of Cader Idris and the lofty peaks of Snowdon. The prospect from the summit of Craig-lâs is equally beautiful and diversified. The new line of road to Hereford and Shrewsbury, completed at an expense of £4000, along the opposite bank of the Rheidiol, to the Devil’s Bridge road, and nearly parallel with it, passes through some fine scenery, and the course of the river from the excellent new inn at Ponterwyd is wild and terrific, particularly about the spot called the Parson’s Bridge, half a mile therefrom.

The hotels and inns at Aberystwyth afford every comfort for the entertainment of visitors, and there is every facility of coach travelling to various parts of the country.

THE DEVIL’S BRIDGE, (_Cardiganshire_.)

Aberystwyth 12 Havod 4 Llanidloes 19

Pont-y-Mynach, or Pont-ar-Fynach, vulgarly the Devil’s Bridge, near the Havod Arms inn, is a single arch, about 30 feet in the chord, thrown over another arch of less than 20 feet, which spans a dark and tremendous chasm. The under arch is said to have been thrown across by the monks of Ystrad Florida Abbey, about the year 1087; but the country people, thinking so bold an effort above the reach of those ghostly fathers, ascribed it to his Satanic Majesty. The present bridge was built in 1753, at the expense of the county, over the original, which was left standing; and the railings were put up in 1814, by Mr. Johnes, of Havod. It is a most romantic and extraordinary structure.

The scenery in this neighbourhood is inexpressibly grand and sublime—what Byron would call, “a blending of all beauties;” a combination of all those lovely charms and impressive wonders, which Nature has scattered with such exuberant prodigality throughout the mountains and valleys of Wales.

The Havod Arms inn stands on a most interesting site in this locality, and affords excellent accommodation to tourists.

Few persons, whether from North or South Wales, who visit the falls of Pont-y-Mynach, but will be desirous of seeing the celebrated seat of the late Mr. Johnes, at

Havod,

Which is about four miles distant. The mansion was built, and the estate laid out in its present paradisaical state of loveliness, by the late Mr. Johnes, of whom it has been truly said, he made the barren wilderness around him to smile, and converted the worthless heath into waving woods, luxuriant corn fields, and pastures. From October, 1795, to April, 1801, Mr. Johnes planted more than 2,065,000 trees, besides a great number of acres that he sowed with acorns. Since this period the plantations have been extended on the same scale with equal spirit; from one to two hundred thousand trees being planted every year.