Part 20

At a private house is shewn part of the building where Edward the First held the parliament which passed the statute of Rhuddlan, in 1283; the observation of the tourist will be directed to it by the following inscription on the building:—“This fragment is the remains of the building where King Edward the First held his parliament, A.D. 1283, in which was passed the statute of Rhuddlan, securing the Principality its judicial rights and independence.”

Rhuddlan Castle

is built of red stone, nearly square, and has six towers. The principal entrance appears to have been at the north-west angle, betwixt two round towers; the two opposite to these are much shattered, but the others are in a better state of preservation. There is some difference of opinion as to the period at which this castle was erected. Two celebrated historians, Powel and Camden, attribute it to Llywelyn ap Sitsyllt, who reigned in Wales at the commencement of the eleventh century, and made it the place of his residence. In 1063, three years before William the Conqueror came to the throne, Rhuddlan castle was in the possession of Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, prince of North Wales. It was in that year attacked and burnt by Harold, the son of Godwin, Earl of Kent (afterwards King of England), in retaliation for some depredations committed by the Welsh on the English borders. It was subsequently the scene of many interesting historical events.

In 1399, the castle was seized by the Earl of Northumberland, previous to the deposition of Richard the Second, who dined here, in company with the Earl, in his way to Flint, where he was treacherously delivered into the power of his rival, Bolingbroke.

In the civil wars, Rhuddlan was garrisoned for the King, but was surrendered to General Mytton in July, 1646, and in the December following was ordered by the parliament to be dismantled.—It is at present the property of the Bodryddan family.

ANGLING STATION.—Cwm, three miles from Rhuddlan.

RHYL, (_Flintshire_.)

Abergele 8 Chester 30 Holywell 13 St. Asaph 5

Rhyl is situated at the termination of the Vale of Clwyd, near the mouth of the river from which that beautiful valley takes its name, and is much frequented as a bathing place during the summer months, for which purpose, both from its immediate contiguity to the sea, and the extent and firmness of its sands, it is admirably adapted. There are excellent and commodious hotels, with smaller inns and lodging houses, intermingled with several neat cottages, occupied for the summer residences of some of the wealthy neighbours. There are machines for the accommodation of bathers, and hot and cold baths, supplied with sea water, to which are attached billiard and news rooms, and a spacious bowling green.

A church has been erected, capable of containing 500 persons, in which there is Divine service in the English language every Sunday. Steam-packets ply regularly from Rhyl to Liverpool three times a week, and occasionally from Rhyl to Beaumaris, affording its visitors an opportunity of seeing some of the magnificent scenery of the Welsh coast. Cars may be obtained at any time from the principal inns, and there is an omnibus on the Voryd side, which runs regularly from Abergele, to meet the packets. Extensive and important local improvements have lately been effected, to add to the attractions of Rhyl as a marine residence.

The shore presents no very striking scenery; still the antique castle of Rhuddlan, in its sober hues, and the dark range of Clwydian hills, stretching far into the distance, afford a scene of no ordinary beauty. To the south is seen the bold promontory of the Great Ormeshead, beyond which is Puffin Island; and when days are bright and skies are clear, the distant hills of Cumberland may be dimly seen, losing themselves beyond the waters of the Irish Sea.—Provisions of all kinds are cheap; and milk, vegetables, and poultry, are abundantly supplied by the neighbouring farmers. The lover of angling may find an opportunity of enjoying his favourite amusement, as the Clwyd and Elwy, both celebrated trout streams, are within one hour’s walk.

RUABON, (_Denbighshire_.)

Chirk 4½ Denbigh 28 Llangollen 7 Wrexham 5½

Ruabon, or Rhiw-abon, is a village containing about 1300 inhabitants, situated on the road from Oswestry to Wrexham and Chester. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an interesting and venerable structure, in which are several splendid marble monuments. There is one by Rhysbrac, to the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who was killed by a fall from his horse, on the 26th of September, 1749, aged 41 years; the figure is in a graceful attitude, as in the act of addressing an assembly. An elegant Latin inscription, the composition of the late Dr. King, of St. Mary’s Hall, Oxford, enumerates in eloquent detail his mental abilities, social qualities, and public and private virtues.

There are likewise two monuments by Nollekens, one to the memory of the late Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., and the other to his wife, Lady Rennetta Williams Wynn. The latter represents that amiable lady in the character of Hope, standing and reclining on an urn. The countenance, attitude, and drapery, are exquisitely fine. The figure stands on a pedestal, on which, in high relievo, is a coiled serpent, hieroglyphical of eternity; and within is an inscription indicating that her ladyship was third daughter of Charles Noel, Duke of Beaufort, and died July 25, 1769, at the early age of 23. The church was thoroughly repaired in 1772, at the expense of the first Sir Watkin, who presented an organ and a small but elegant font of white marble, on the occasion of the baptism of his eldest son, the late baronet. Dr. David Powel, the Welsh historian, who was instituted to this vicarage in the year 1571, was interred here.

In the neighbourhood are numerous iron works and collieries. The British iron company has very extensive works at Acrevair, in which several hundred men are constantly employed. There are considerable coal works at Cefn-Mawr, a large and populous village on the northern bank of the Dee, near an elegant bridge thrown over the river, called New Bridge. The Eagles or Wynnstay Arms Inn is a respectable house. Ruabon is one of the principal stations of the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway.—A short distance from the inn is

Wynnstay.

This extensive park, which is twelve miles in circumference, is entered from the village by a plain but handsome gateway of modern erection, opening into a straight avenue, nearly a mile in length, composed of lofty trees of ancient growth, in which venerable oaks, stately elms, beeches, and chesnuts, are intermingled; and at the extremity of which is the mansion, the hospitable residence of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., beautifully situated on a fine and extensive lawn, gently sloping to a noble and picturesque lake. The older portion of the building contains the domestic offices and general departments for the accommodation of the household. The modern part, erected by the first Sir Watkin, and enlarged by the late baronet, is spacious and substantial structure: the interior comprises several noble apartments, embellished with some excellent family portraits, by Sir Joshua Reynolds and some of the best masters, two full length paintings of Charles II. and his Queen, and several other pictures of merit.

The park is enriched with some of the noblest trees in the Principality, and comprehends much variety and beauty of scenery: there are handsome lodge entrances into it from various parts of the surrounding district.

At a short distance from the hall, situated in charming pleasure grounds, is a cold bath, near which stands a handsome fluted column, erected after a design by the late Mr. James Wyatt: it is one hundred feet high, ornamented on the faces with festooned wreaths of oak leaves, and at the angles with eagles, finely moulded in bronze; the capital is surmounted by an entablature supporting a circular platform, surrounded with an iron balustrade, to which there is an ascent from the interior by a flight of spiral steps, and having in the centre a circular pedestal, twelve feet high, on which is placed a massive vase of bronze, enriched with goats’ heads. Over the door leading to the ascent, is a tablet bearing the following inscription:—“To the memory of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart. who died on the 29th of July, MDCCLXXXIX. this column was erected by his affectionate mother, Frances Williams Wynn;” and on the north side, in letters of copper, is the inscription—“Filium optimus. Mater, eheu! superstes.” Near this column is a fine sheet of water, bounded by Watt’s Dyke, which here intersects the park, and from which the mansion originally derived the name of Wattstay, changed by Sir John Wynn, to its present appellation.

Near the southern extremity of the woods is a cenotaph, erected by the late Sir Watkin, from a design by Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, to the memory of his brother officers and soldiers who were slain during the rebellion in Ireland in 1798: it stands on an eminence overlooking a deep ravine, called Nant y Bele (the Dingle of the Marten), through which the river Dee urges it rapid course along a narrow channel, richly fringed with impending woods. From this spot there is a most magnificent prospect, embracing a vast extent of the counties of Caernarvon, Denbigh, Flint, Chester, and Salop, Chirk Castle and its noble park, the whole of the beautiful vale of Llangollen, including the stupendous aqueduct of Pont-y-Cysylltau, and the majestic ruins of Castell Dinas Brân, with the stately range of mountains in the distance.

A gay archery _fête_ of the British Bowmen, attended by 300 of the aristocracy of the kingdom, was held at Wynnstay in 1846.

ANGLING STATION.—The Dee.

RUTHIN, (_Denbighshire_.)

Bala 22 Chester 22 Corwen 12 Denbigh 8 Llangollen 15 London 210 Mold 10 St. Asaph 14 Wrexham 18

Ruthin (Rhudd-ddin or Rhuthyn) is beautifully situated on the aclivity of an eminence in the picturesque Vale of Clwyd, at the base of which and through the lower part of the town flows the river from which the vale takes its name, at this place an inconsiderable stream, serving only to work some mills in the neighbourhood. The parish contains 3333 inhabitants. The appearance of the town is pleasing, and the neighbourhood is embellished with numerous gentlemen’s seats, and commands much varied scenery. The principal inns are the White Lion and Cross Foxes.

The government of Ruthin is vested in a municipal corporation. It is one of the contributory boroughs, with Denbigh, Holt, and Wrexham, to return a member to parliament. Ruthin has been made a polling-place in the election of knights of the shire; and from its central situation, it has been selected, in preference to the town of Denbigh, for holding the assizes for the county: the quarter sessions are held alternately here and at Denbigh. The town-hall, situated in the market-place, was built in 1663, and is used for holding the courts leet and baron. Prior to the erection of the county-hall, the quarter sessions were held there. The county-hall is a modern structure, fronted with white stone, and, with the county gaol and house of correction, also situated here, is highly creditable to the skill of the architect, Mr. Turner.

The church is an interesting and ancient structure, with a fine roof of carved oak, panelled, richly sculptured, and apparently of the time of Henry the Seventh. The church was changed into a collegiate chapter A.D. 1310, by John de Grey, who formed an establishment of several regular canons, and endowed it with valuable lands and numerous privileges. The apartments of the canons were connected with the church by a cloister, of which a remaining portion has been converted into a residence for the warden.

The town contains an endowed free grammar school, a national school supported by voluntary subscriptions, and places of worship for various dissenting congregations.—The present rector is the Venerable Archdeacon Newcome, author of Memoirs of Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, and Dr. Godfrey Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, and also of some local histories.

The ancient castle occupied the declivity of a hill, fronting the Vale of Clwyd towards the west, and, from the extensive foundations and remaining portions of the walls, appears to have been a structure of great strength and magnificence: the remains consist chiefly of fragments of the towers, dungeons, and ruined walls. This fortress was built by Edward the First, who in 1281 gave it, with the hundred of Dyffryn Clwyd, to Reginald de Grey; from the family of Greys it devolved to Richard Earl of Kent, who sold it to Henry the Seventh. It was afterwards granted to Dudley Earl of Warwick, by Queen Elizabeth. After the restoration, the castle and its dependencies were purchased by Sir Richard Myddelton.

The elegant castellated mansion erected by the Hon. F. West, within the ruins of the old castle, forms a beautiful feature in the prospect of the town. The architect having blended the ancient and modern parts with harmonious effect, the structure displays great taste on the part of the projector. From various parts of the site are several rich and extensive prospects. No tourist should omit a visit to Ruthin Castle, which abounds with objects of interest to the student of British history.

Near the town-hall is a rude block of lime-stone, called Maen Huail, on which, it is said, the celebrated Prince Arthur beheaded his rival Huail, brother to Gildas the historian. Ruthin mill, a curious ancient edifice, having on the apex of the eastern gable a red stone cross, is supposed to have been originally the chapel of the cell of White Friars, mentioned by Leland as formerly existing here, but of which no records are preserved.

Dr. Goodman, Dean of Westminster, one of the translators of Archbishop Parker’s Bible, and principal promoter of Bishop Morgan’s Welsh translation; Edward Thelwall, tutor to Lord Herbert of Chirbury; Dr. Parry, Bishop of St. Asaph; Dr. Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester; Sir Eubule Thelwall, Knt., principal and second founder of Jesus College, Oxford; and Sir Thomas Exmewe, Lord Mayor of London in 1517, were natives of this place.

Vale of Clwyd.

This beautiful valley, called by the Welsh Dyffryn Clwyd (the Vale of the Flat), commences three or four miles south of Ruthin; enclosed by mountains, whose brown and barren summits form a fine contrast to the verdant meads and luxuriant fields beneath, which as far as the eye can reach present a most pleasing picture. Towns, villages, and mansions, thickly studded over the country, tend still more to enliven the cheering scene, which is exceedingly beautiful and attractive.

This vale is the most extensive of any in Wales, being about twenty-four miles in length, above Ruthin to Rhuddlan, and varying from five to seven miles in breadth; it contains the three considerable towns of Denbigh, Ruthin, and St. Asaph. There are several of the adjacent heights whence the vale may be seen to advantage; such are the Bwlch Pen-Barras, on the old road to Mold, about four miles from Ruthin, and that part of the new road by which the traveller descends into the vale, commencing about three miles from the latter town; but the best station for an extended view, is the eastern ridge of the mountain, between Dymeirchion and Bodfari, about three hundred yards from Bryn Bella. The view presents a most enchanting panorama of natural scenery.

ANGLING STATION.—The Clwyd.

ST. ASAPH, (_Flintshire_.)

Abergele 7 Conway 18 Chester 28 Denbigh 6 Holywell 10 London 217 Rhuddlan 3

St. Asaph, commonly called Llan Elwy, derived its origin and name from the erection of a church on the bank of the river Elwy, about the middle of the sixth century. The city is beautifully situated on the gentle aclivity of an eminence, washed on the eastern side by the river Clwyd, and on the west by the Elwy, which unite at the distance of about a mile to the north. The parish contains 3338 inhabitants. Over the Elwy, at the extremity of the principal street, is a handsome stone bridge of five arches; and over the Clwyd is a fine bridge of more modern erection, within a quarter of a mile to the east of the cathedral church. The White Lion and the Mostyn Arms are the principal inns. St. Asaph has been added to the other boroughs of this county, now eight in number, which unitedly return one member to parliament.

The approach from Holywell to St. Asaph is commodious and picturesque. The view of the city is peculiarly striking; its elevated situation on an eminence near the termination of the rich and fertile Vale of Clwyd, crowned on the summit with the cathedral, and having the parish church at its base, makes it a conspicuous object from every point; and the luxuriant groves of trees in which it is deeply embosomed, give to it a romantic appearance. The surrounding scenery, which abounds with objects of interest and beauty, is seen to great advantage from the heights of the city and from the grounds in the immediate vicinity.

The cathedral consists chiefly of the structure raised by Bishop Anian, the second of that name, about the year 1284, and after its demolition by Owen Glyndwr, it was restored by Bishop Redman, towards the close of the fifteenth century, with the exception of the choir, which was rebuilt about the year 1770, by the Dean and Chapter, with funds which had been vested in their hands as trustees for that purpose. It is a cruciform structure, principally in the decorated style of English architecture, with a low square embattled tower, rising from the intersection of the nave and transepts, and having at the north-east angle a staircase turret: the exterior is of simple but good design; the buttresses are few and of very bold character, and the arch of the west door is plainly moulded: the east end is ornamented with a window, which is said to be a fac-simile of the east window in Tintern abbey, in Monmouthshire, and in 1810 was filled with beautifully stained glass, at the expense of the Dean and Chapter, aided by the contributions of the gentry in the neighbourhood. The “good Bishop Beveridge” was consecrated to this see in 1704.

The interior of the cathedral contains some interesting monuments; an altar-tomb, with a recumbent figure in episcopal robes, is said to commemorate the munificent prelate, Davydd ab Owen, who was interred here in 1512; and near the west door is a painted tomb, with an inscription to the memory of Bishop Isaac Barrow, who died in 1680. There is a monument of white marble, to the memory of Dean Shipley, by Ternouth, erected by subscription about the year 1829, at an expense of £600, consisting of a full-length figure of the Dean in his canonicals, in a sitting posture; and also a neat altar-tomb monument to the memory of Bishop Luxmore, who died in January, 1830, from a design by T. Jones, Esq. of Chester. Among other objects of interest to admirers of taste and genius, we may mention a mural tablet to the memory of that charming poetess, the gifted Mrs. Hemans. The choir is neatly fitted up, and the general appearance of the interior remarkably gratifying, from its appropriate solemnity and the excellent order in which it is kept. A new organ was erected a few years since.

The episcopal palace, situated at a short distance to the west of the cathedral, was rebuilt upon a more extensive scale and in an appropriate style, at the expense of the late Bishop. The deanery, about a quarter of a mile from the cathedral, and on the west bank of the river Elwy, was also rebuilt by the present Dean. Dr. T. V. Short is the present Bishop of St. Asaph. The parochial church, dedicated to St. Asaph and St. Kentegern, is situated at the base of the eminence, of which the cathedral occupies the summit; it is a small edifice without a tower, and is supposed to have been erected about the year 1524. There are places of worship for Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists.

The views in the neighbourhood are delightfully picturesque and varied.

[Picture: Picture of fishermen on lake]

There are numerous elegant mansions within the parish; among the most conspicuous are—Kinmel, the seat of Lord Dinorben; Bodelwyddan, the seat of Sir John Williams, Bart., one of the handsomest residences of North Wales; Pengwern, that of Lord Mostyn, built about the beginning of the last century; Cefn, that of Edward Lloyd, Esq.; and Bronwylfa, the residence of Colonel Sir Henry Browne, erected in the year 1660, and enlarged in 1816. In this last mansion are some valuable trophies taken during the late war, amongst which are, Napoleon Buonaparte’s travelling map and book of roads of the French empire, in splendid morocco cases, emblazoned with the imperial arms, taken from his library at Fontainbleau, by Sir Henry, in 1815 and a French field-marshal’s baton, two feet three inches in length, covered with purple velvet, ornamented with golden bees, and surmounted with an imperial crown, taken in Silesia, in 1812, by a division of Blucher’s corps.

In the township of Cefn Meriadog are some magnificent natural caverns, extending for a considerable distance into the limestone rocks; in some parts of those the roof is more than forty feet in height, and near the river Elwy the base of the rock is perforated by a lofty natural arch, 21 yards in length, and 36 feet high, through which is a road capable of admitting a wagon loaded with hay. Various fossil remains have been found in these caverns, which have been considered by Professor Buckland as worthy of a personal scrutiny on the spot.

ANGLING STATION.—Bodfari, four miles from St. Asaph.

SNOWDON, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

A chain of the highest mountains in Wales extends across Caernarvonshire, from Bardsey Island to Penmaen Bach, near Conway bay, gradually rising from each extremity towards the centre, which is occupied by Snowdon. The name of this mountain was first given to it by the Saxons, and signifies a hill covered with snow; but the Welsh call all this adjacent range Creigian-yr-Eyri (the Eagle’s Cliffs;) for it is not true, as has been asserted, that snow may be found upon it through the whole year. The temperature at the summit is generally very low, even in summer. In July, just after sunrise, the thermometer has been observed at 34 deg. and in August at 48 deg. early in the afternoon.

The perpendicular height of Snowdon is by late admeasurements 1190 yards above the level of the sea. This makes it, according to Pennant, 240 yards higher than Cader Idris. Some state Whernside, in Yorkshire, to be the highest mountain in South Britain, and more than 4000 feet. Helvelyn is 3324 feet, Benlomond 3262. Mont Blanc rises 15,680 feet; the American Chimboraco is 20,909 feet, the highest ground ever trodden by man; and the mountain of Thibet above 25,000 feet, the highest at present known.