Part 2

Distance Distance from from Chester. London. 46 Aberconway or Conway, _f._ (market day) 230 34 Abergele 12 Abergele, _s._ 225 39 Bala 32 45 Bala, _s._ 195 61 Bangor 15 27 46 Bangor, _f._ 242 68 Beaumaris 22 34 53 7 Beaumaris, _tu._ and _f._ 249 70 Caernarvon 24 36 41 9 13 Caernarvon, _s._ 244 31 Corwen 35 32 12 41 49 50 Corwen, _w._ and _f._ 194 25 Denbigh 23 14 26 37 44 46 18 Denbigh, _w._ and _s._ 214 57 Dolgelley 50 58 18 47 51 38 30 44 Dolgelley, _tu._ and _s._ 213 14 Flint 34 23 34 49 56 58 26 17 52 Flint 203 69 Haerlech 45 56 34 36 40 27 47 58 19 64 Haerlech, _s._ 232 7 Hawarden 40 28 33 55 62 64 25 20 51 8 63 Hawarden, _s._ 196 86 Holyhead 40 52 71 25 28 30 66 62 68 74 57 80 Holyhead, _s._ 267 18 Holywell 29 18 37 45 52 54 28 12 62 5 70 11 70 Holywell, _f._ 207 23 Llangollen 45 36 22 51 58 60 10 23 40 31 56 31 76 34 Llangollen, _s._ 184 69 Llanidloes 82 90 50 81 85 72 65 77 34 77 53 74 106 80 55 Llanidloes, _s._ 188 51 Llanrwst 12 20 20 23 30 32 23 20 38 37 33 40 48 32 33 70 Llanrwst, _tu._ and _s._ 218 70 Machynlleth 64 72 32 62 69 53 44 58 15 66 36 66 87 69 54 20 53 Machynlleth, _w._ 206 12 Mold 39 30 27 53 60 62 19 16 45 7 60 6 78 10 24 77 36 59 Mold, (by Wrexham), _w._ & _s._ 189 49 Montgomery 79 72 43 87 93 84 45 58 44 58 63 55 112 61 35 23 66 37 51 Montgomery, _th._ 169 58 Newtown 76 77 44 87 93 85 51 63 41 63 60 62 112 66 41 14 64 28 56 9 Newtown, _tu._ & _s._ 175 21 Pwllheli 45 57 43 30 34 21 68 67 37 79 25 85 51 75 65 71 37 52 70 76 78 Pwllheli, _w._ & _s._ 243 21 Ruthin 31 22 18 45 52 54 10 8 36 16 48 15 70 18 15 69 28 49 10 50 55 59 Ruthin, _m._ & _s._ 206 28 St. Asaph 19 8 38 34 41 43 24 6 56 15 64 21 59 10 28 88 26 70 18 64 69 69 14 St. Asaph, _f._ 218 41 Welshpool 67 63 35 79 86 76 34 49 36 44 55 48 104 59 27 28 57 42 42 8 14 85 41 55 Welshpool, _th._ 171 12 Wrexham 48 39 34 62 69 71 22 25 52 19 69 16 87 22 12 58 46 67 12 39 44 78 18 31 30 Wrexham 177

PANORAMA.

ABER, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

_Distance from_ _Miles_. Port Penrhyn 5 Llanvair Vechan 2 Conway 9 Penmaen Mawr 3 Llandegai 3½ London 245

ABER, or, as it is called by way of distinction, Aber-gwyngregyn, the Stream of the White Shells, is a small neat village, situated on the Holyhead and Chester road, near the Lavan Sands, at the extremity of a luxuriant vale watered by the river Gwyngregyn, which runs into the Irish sea; it commands a fine view of the entrance into the Menai, with the islands of Anglesea and Priestholme, and the vast expanse of water which rolls beneath the ragged Ormesheads. The pleasantness of its situation, and the salubrity of its air, render this place exceedingly attractive during the summer season, and the beach, at high water, is very convenient for sea bathing.

The church is an ancient structure, with a square tower; the living being in the gift of Sir R. W. Bulkeley.

The Bulkeley Arms is an excellent inn, where post-chaises and cars may be had.

This is considered a very convenient station for such persons as wish to examine Penmaen-mawr, and the adjacent country, either as naturalists or artists. From this place also persons frequently cross the Menai straits immediately into Anglesea, in a direction towards Beaumaris. The distance is somewhat more than six miles. When the tide is out, the Lavan Sands are dry for four miles, in the same direction, over which the passenger has to walk within a short distance of the opposite shore, where the ferry-boat plies. In fogs, the passage over these sands has been found very dangerous, and many have been lost in making the hazardous enterprise at such times. As a very salutary precaution, the bell of Aber church, which was presented for the purpose by the late Lord Bulkeley, in 1817, is rung in foggy weather, with a view to direct those persons whose business compels them to make the experiment. It would be dangerous for a stranger to undertake the journey without a guide, as the sands frequently shift: however, since the erection of the Menai bridge, this route is seldom taken.

The village is situated at the mouth of the deep glen, which runs in a straight line a mile and a half between the mountains, and is bounded on one side by a magnificent rock, called Maes-y-Gaer. At the extremity of this glen, a mountain presents a concave front, down the centre of which a vast cataract precipitates itself in a double fall, upwards of sixty feet in height, presenting in its rushing torrent over the scattered fragments of rock a grand and picturesque appearance.

At the entrance of the glen, close to the village, is an extensive artificial mount, flat at the top, and near sixty feet in diameter, widening towards the base. It was once the site of castle belonging to the renowned prince, Llewelyn the Great, foundations are yet to be seen round the summit; and in digging, traces of buildings have been discovered. This spot is famous as the scene of the reputed amour of William de Breos, an English baron, with the wife of the Welsh hero, and of the tragical occurrence which followed its detection. This transaction, which has given rise to a popular legend, is well told in Miss Costello’s “Pictorial Tour,” published in 1845:—

Llywelyn had been induced by the artful promises of the smooth traitor, king John, to accept the hand of his daughter, the princess Joan; but his having thus allied himself did not prevent the aggressions of his father-in-law, and John having cruelly murdered twenty-eight hostages, sons of the highest Welsh nobility, Llywelyn’s indignation overcame all other considerations, and he attacked John in all his castles between the Dee and Conway, and, for that time freed North Wales from the English yoke.

There are many stories told of the princess Joan, or Joanna, somewhat contradictory, but generally received: she was, of course, not popular with the Welsh, and the court bard, in singing the praise of the prince, even goes so far as to speak of a female favourite of Llywelyn’s, instead of naming his wife: perhaps he wrote his ode at the time when she was in disgrace, in consequence of misconduct attributed to her. It is related that Llywelyn, at the battle of Montgomery, took prisoner William de Breos, one of the knights of the English court, and while he remained his captive treated him well, and rather as a friend than enemy. This kindness was repaid by De Breos with treachery, for he ventured to form an attachment to the princess Joan, perhaps to renew one already begun before her marriage with the Welsh prince. He was liberated, and returned to his own country; but scarcely was he gone than evil whispers were breathed into the ear of Llywelyn, and vengeance entirely possessed his mind: he, however, dissembled his feelings, and, still feigning the same friendship, he invited De Breos to come to his palace at Aber as a guest. The lover of the princess Joan readily accepted the invitation, hoping once more to behold his mistress; but he knew not the fate which hung over him, or he would not have entered the portal of the man he had injured so gaily as he did.

The next morning the princess Joan walked forth early, in a musing mood: she was young, beautiful, she had been admired and caressed in her father’s court, was there the theme of minstrels and the lady of many a tournament—to what avail? her hand without her heart had been bestowed on a brave but uneducated prince, whom she could regard as little less than savage, who had no ideas in common with her, to whom all the refinements of the Norman court were unknown, and whose uncouth people, and warlike habits, and rugged pomp, were all distasteful to her. Perhaps she sighed as she thought of the days when the handsome young De Breos broke a lance in her honour, and she rejoiced, yet regretted, that the dangerous knight, the admired and gallant William, was again beneath her husband’s roof. In this state of mind she was met by the bard, an artful retainer of Llywelyn, who hated all of English blood, and whose lays were never awakened but in honour of his chief, but who contrived to deceive her into a belief that he both pitied and was attached to her. Observing her pensive air, and guessing at its cause, he entered into conversation with her, and having ‘beguiled her of her tears’ by his melody, he at length ventured on these dangerous words.—

“Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn, Beth a roit ti am weled Gwilym?”

“Tell me, wife of Llywelyn, what would you give for sight of your William?”

The princess, thrown off her guard, and confiding in harper’s faith, imprudently exclaimed:—

“Cymru, Lloegr, a Llywelyn, Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!”

“Wales, and England, and Llywelyn—all would I give to behold my William!”

The harper smiled bitterly, and, taking her arm, pointed slowly with his finger in the direction of a neighbouring hill, where, at a place called Wern Grogedig, grew a lofty tree, from the branches of which a form was hanging, which she too well recognised as that of the unfortunate William de Breos.

In a dismal cave beneath that spot was buried “the young, the beautiful, the brave;” and the princess Joan dared not shed a tear to his memory. Tradition points out the place, which is called Cae Gwilym Dhu.

Notwithstanding this tragical episode, the princess and her husband managed to live well together afterwards; whether she convinced him of his error, and he repented his hasty vengeance, or whether he thought it bettor policy to appear satisfied; at all events, Joan frequently interfered between her husband and father to prevent bloodshed, and sometimes succeeded. On one occasion she did so with some effect, at a time when the Welsh prince was encamped on a mountain above Ogwen lake, called Carnedd Llywelyn from that circumstance; when he saw from the heights his country in ruins, and Bangor in flames. Davydd, the son of the princess, was Llywelyn’s favourite son. Joan died in 1237, and was buried in a monastery of Dominican friars at Llanvaes, near Beaumaris; Llywelyn erected over her a splendid monument, which existed till Henry the Eighth gave the monastery to one of his courtiers to pillage, and the chapel became a barn. The coffin, which was all that remained of the tomb, like that of Llywelyn himself, was thrown into a little brook, and for two hundred and fifty years was used as a watering trough for cattle. It is now preserved at Baron Hill, near Beaumaris.

ABERDARON, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Caernarvon 36 Nevyn 16 Pwllheli 16

This is a miserably poor village, at the very extremity of Caernarvonshire, seated in a bay, beneath some high and sandy cliffs. On the summit of a promontory are the ruins of a small church, called Capel Vair, or Chapel of our Lady. The chapel was placed here to give the seamen an opportunity of invoking the tutelar saint for protection through the dangerous sound. Not far distant, are also the ruins of another chapel, called Anhaelog. At this spot, pilgrims in days of yore embarked on their weary journey to pay their vows at the graves of the saints of Bardsey.

The original church was a very old structure, in the style of ancient English architecture, dedicated to St. Hyrwyn, a saint of the island of Bardsey, and was formerly collegiate and had the privilege of sanctuary; it contained a nave, south aisle, and chancel, and was an elegant and highly finished building. A new church has been recently built, on the site of the old one, at the expense of the landed proprietors, aided by the church building societies.

The mouth of the bay is guarded by two little islands, called Ynys Gwylan, a security to the small craft of the inhabitants, who are chiefly fishermen. It takes its name from the rivulet Daron, which empties itself here.

This primitive village is noted as the birth place of Richard Robert Jones, alias Dick Aberdaron, the celebrated Welsh linguist. He was born in 1778, and died in deep distress at St. Asaph in 1843. Jones was the son of a carpenter, and always evinced a want of capacity, except in the acquiring of languages by self culture. He began with the Latin tongue when fifteen years of age. At nineteen he commenced with Greek, and proceeded with Hebrew, Persiac, Arabic, French, Italian, and other modern languages; and was ultimately conversant with thirteen. Notwithstanding that he read all the best authors, particularly in the Greek, he seemed to acquire no other knowledge than as to the form and construction of language. He was always in great indigence, and used to parade the streets of Liverpool extremely dirty and ragged, with some mutilated stores of literature under his arm, and wearing his beard several inches long. He was at one time much noticed by the late Mr. Roscoe, who secured him a weekly stipend, which however was not maintained after the death of that distinguished scholar.

Bardsey Island,

Generally called by the Welsh Yr Ynys Enlli (the Island of the Current), and formerly known as the Island of the Saints, is situated about three leagues to the west of Aberdaron; it is somewhat more than two miles long and one broad, and contains about 370 acres of land, of which near one-third is occupied by a high mountain, affording sustenance only to a few sheep and rabbits. The number of inhabitants does not exceed one hundred, and their chief employment is fishing, there being great abundance round the island. It is the property of Lord Newborough.

On the south-east side, which is only accessible to the mariner, there is a small well sheltered harbour, capable of admitting vessels of 30 or 40 tons burden. The lighthouse was erected in 1821; it is a handsome square tower, 74 feet high, and surmounted by a lantern, 10 feet high.

This island was formerly celebrated for an abbey, a few portions only of which are now remaining. Dubricius, archbishop of Caerlleon, resigned his see to St. David, retired here, and died A.D. 612; he was interred upon the spot, but such was the veneration paid to his memory in after ages, that his remains were removed in the year 1107 to Llandaff, and interred in that cathedral, of which Dubricius had been the first bishop. After the slaughter of the monks of Bangor Is-y-coed, nine hundred persecuted men who had embraced Christianity, sought a sacred refuge in this island, where numbers of the devout had already established a sanctuary, and found repose from the troubles which then raged through the Principality.

ABERDOVEY, (_Merionethshire_.)

Aberystwyth across the sands 11 Barmouth 16 Dolgellau 21 Machynlleth 10 Towyn 4

This is a small sea-port in the parish of Towyn, and about four miles from that place. It is pleasantly situated on the northern side of the mouth of the river Dovey, which here empties itself into Cardigan bay, and is rapidly rising into estimation as a bathing place. The beach is highly favourable for bathing, being composed of hard firm sand, affording a perfectly safe carriage-drive of about eight miles in length, along the margin of the sea. The ride to Towyn along the sands, at low water, is extremely delightful.

Several respectable houses and a commodious hotel (the Corbet Arms) have of late years been erected for the accommodation of visitors; and a chapel of ease has also been lately built by subscription, which affords great convenience to the inhabitants, who are four miles distant from the parish church. Service is performed every Sunday morning in English, and in the afternoon in the Welsh language.

The river Dovey is here one mile in width, and is crossed by a ferry, which leads by a road along the sea shore to Borth, whence is a communication with the Aberystwyth road. During the spring tides the ferry can only be crossed at low water, on account of the sands being flooded, and so rendered impassable. The river is navigable nine miles up a most picturesque country, and affords good trout fishing.

ABERFFRAW, (_Anglesea_.)

Caernarvon Ferry 3 Mona Inn 8 Newborough 7

Aberffraw, once a princely residence, is now reduced to a few small houses; it is situated on the river Ffraw, near a small bay. Not a vestige is to be seen of its former importance, except the rude wall of an old barn, and Gardd y Llys, at the west end of the town. It was a chief seat of the native princes, and one of the three courts of justice for the Principality. Here was always kept one of the three copies of the ancient code of laws. This place is of great antiquity, being one of three selected by Roderic the Great, about 870, for the residence of his successors. In 962 it was ravaged by the Irish. An extent was made of Aberffraw in the 13th Edward III, from which may be learned some of the ancient revenues of the Welsh princes. It appeared that part arose from the rents of lands, from the profits of mills and fisheries, and often from things taken in kind; but the last more frequently commuted for their value in money. There is a good inn called the Prince Llywelyn.

Near to Aberffraw is Bodorgan, the seat of Owen Augustus Fuller Meyrick, Esq., which is pleasantly situated, and overlooks Caernarvon bay. The mansion, gardens, and conservatories are worth a visit from the tourist

ABERGELE, (_Denbighshire_.)

Bangor 27 Chester 35 Conway 12 London 225 Rhuddlan 5 Rhyl 7 St. Asaph 8