Part 19

Mona Inn, formerly called Caeau Môn, is an excellent hotel, situate midway between Bangor and Holyhead, on the new line of road between those places. Post chaises are kept here. About nine miles beyond the Mona Inn the mail road crosses the Stanley Sands, by means of an embankment 1300 yards in length, and upon an average of 16 feet in height. In the fields of the inn the geologist will find a curious red rock, containing jasper, which will cut glass like a diamond, and which also polishes beautifully.

MONTGOMERY, (_Montgomeryshire_.)

Bishop’s Castle 9 London 169 Newtown 9 Welshpool 8

This town, the capital of the county, is romantically situated, partly on the summit, and partly on the declivity of a hill, rising from the southern bank of the Severn, and under the shelter of a mountain of a mountain of loftier elevation.—The town-hall stands in the middle of the town, the area underneath being used for the market: the upper part is divided into two handsome rooms, erected at the expense of Lord Clive, the larger of which is used for assemblies; the smaller, for the business of the quarter sessions. On the left of the road leading to Shrewsbury is the new gaol, built by the county at an expense of £10,000. In 1841, the population returns gave to this town 1208 inhabitants. The Dragon has the reputation of being the principal inn.

The town was anciently built and fortified with a castle, by Baldwyn, lieutenant of the Welsh marshes to William the Conqueror, and then called Tre-Faldwyn, i.e. Baldwyn’s Town; but Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, in 1092, entered Powys-land, and took his place, which he fortified anew, built the castle (according to Doomsday-book), and called it after his own name. The church is a handsome cruciform structure, and contains an ancient monument to the memory of Richard Herbert, Esq., father of the celebrated Lord Herbert of Chirbury.

The ruins of the castle crown an eminence to the north of the town, the approach to which is easy; but on the opposite side, the rock upon which it is built rises almost perpendicularly. A seat belonging to the Earl of Powys, called Leymore Lodge, stands about half a mile from the town, on the road to Bishop’s Castle.

Mynydd, or Cefn Dygoll,

Is celebrated for having been the spot where the national independence of the Welsh was finally prostrated. After the death of Llywelyn, the northern Welshmen set up Madoc, his cousin, who assembled a great army, and after several victories at Caernarvon, Denbigh, Knockin, and on the marshes, the hero of the Principality was here overthrown, in 1294, by the collected power of the Lords Marshers, after a fiercely contested battle.

NEVYN, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Caernarvon 21 Cricaeth 15 London 270 Pwllheli 7

Nevyn is a small market town, situated on the western coast of the county, with a population of 1726 inhabitants. It is only remarkable as the place where Edward the First, in 1284, celebrated his conquest of Wales by tournaments and feasts. The coast in the neighbourhood is bold and rocky, and the surrounding scenery altogether of a mountainous character. The church is a neat building, erected in 1824.

On a narrow head-land, jutting into the sea, about a mile from the town, is Porth-yn-Llëyn, supposed, from remains of strong entrenchments, to have been a port frequented by the Romans. It forms a natural bay, in which there is safe anchorage in all winds, for vessels of the largest tonnage.

NEWBOROUGH, (_Anglesea_.)

Aberfraw 7 Menai Bridge 12

Newborough is on inconsiderable village, containing 895 inhabitants, deriving its name from having been constituted a free borough by Edward the First. It was originally a place of great importance, being the capital of the island, and was for many years the residence of the princes of North Wales, who had a palace here, where, or at Aberfraw, on the opposite side of the Malldraeth sands, they occasionally fixed their seat of government, as the exigences of that turbulent period might require. At the time of the first conquest of Wales by Edward the First, this place appears to have been the chief town in the island, as well as the seat of justice for the whole comot of Menai. In the reign of Henry the Seventh, upon a representation to that sovereign, the assizes and other county business were removed from Beaumaris to Newborough. Having, however, declined from its former importance, in the third year of Edward the Sixth, the assizes, sessions, and general county business were removed back to Beaumaris, where they have been continued ever since.

NEWMARKET, (_Flintshire_.)

Caerwys 5 Holywell 7 St. Asaph 6 Rhuddlan 4

This village is situated about three miles to the right hand of the great Chester and Holyhead road, and within three miles of the estuary of the Dee.

The church is a small structure of modern date, standing within a spacious cemetery, in which are some fine lofty trees. On the south of the church, and not far distant from the principal entrance, stands a tall and very beautiful stone cross, the upper part finely sculptured in high relief. Here is built one of the charity schools, founded and opened in 1726, by Dr. Daniel Williams, a dissenting minister, with an annual endowment of £8, a charity which he extended to every county in North Wales, distinguishing that of Wrexham, the place of his birth, by an annual salary of £15.

The conjecture of the learned antiquarian, Mr. Pennant, that from the numerous tumuli and other sepulchral memorials visible in the neighbourhood, it was the scene of the slaughter of the Ordovices, by the Romans under Agricola, seems to be well founded.

Near the village is a hill called Cop ’r ’leni, on the summit of which is a most enormous carnedd or tumulus, formed of lime-stones. It covers nearly an acre of ground, and is in height from 20 to 30 yards. The most probable conjecture is, that it was erected over the remains of some distinguished warrior or chieftain, slain in battle, and in later times served as an observatory to discern the approach of an enemy, for which purpose it is well calculated, as it commands an extensive view both of the neighbouring encampments, and the estuaries of the Dee and Mersey.

A short distance from this place, on the brow of another hill, is Bryn-y-Saethau, or the Hill of Arrows, probably from being the station of the archers in the engagement: close to this is Bryn-y-Lladdfa, or the Hill of Slaughter, a name peculiarly appropriate to the site of a battle; a little below again is Pant-y-Gwae, or the Hollow of Woe.

Between Newmarket and Mostyn, about one mile and a half distance from the former place, there is on an elevation a singular monument, denominated Maen Achwynfan, or the Stone of Lamentation and Weeping, on which are cut some very curious figures; the height of the stone is twelve feet, and two feet four inches wide at the base; the form is that of an ancient obelisk.

A short time since one of the tumuli or barrows was opened in the presence of Mr. Morgan, of Golden Grove, and the Rev. Henry Parry, vicar of Llanasa, and was found to contain a quantity of bones and boars’ tusks, the latter in good preservation. An urn, nearly two feet in height, was struck upon, but through the precipitancy of the workmen employed on the occasion, was unfortunately broken to pieces.

NEWTOWN, (_Montgomeryshire_.)

Bishop’s Castle 16 Llanidloes 14 Llanfyllyn 19 London 179 Machynlleth 30 Welshpool 14

Newtown, or as it is called by the Welsh Tre’-Newydd, is situated on the banks of the river Severn, on the road from Welshpool to Aberystwyth, and contains 3990 inhabitants.—The principal inns are the Boar and the Angel. Very little is known either of the origin or the early history of this place, which within the last fifty years, from the celebrity of its flannel manufacture, has risen into importance. A spacious hall has recently, been erected, from a design by Mr. Penson, in which the market for the staple commodity of the place is held, each alternate Thursday. Many factories have been established, which afford employment to more than two thousand persons.

A substantial bridge of stone over the Severn, called the Long Bridge, was completed in 1827, at a cost exceeding £4000: it consists of three arches of more than sixty feet span; the arches and the parapets being of grey free-stone, and the spears and spandrils of blue stone, found in the neighbourhood. A stone bridge of one arch was built in 1803, over the town brook, on the road to Welshpool, which, by way of distinction, is called the Short Bridge.

The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an ancient structure. In the interior are some marble monuments, chiefly to the family of Price, of Newtown Hall. The environs abound with pleasing and romantic scenery, and a fine view of the town is obtained from the summits of the hills on the north and south sides. At the distance of about a mile and a half on the road to Built, there is a picturesque and beautiful spot, which is much resorted to by strangers; from the summit of a shelving mass of rock, eighty feet high, a stream of water rushes with impetuosity, forming in its descent a fine cascade, which winds at the base through a richly wooded glen.

Angling Stations.

_Distances from Newtown_. _Miles_. Bettws 4 Llanmerewig 4 Llanwynog 6

NORTHOP, (_Flintshire_.)

Chester 11½ Flint 3 Hawarden 4½ Holywell 6 London 194 Mold 3

This is a large and pleasantly situated village, in a fertile part of the country, surrounded by numerous seats and elegant villas. The Welsh name is Llan-Eurgain, from the dedication of its first church to St. Eurgain, daughter of the Prince Maelgwyn Gwynedd, and niece of St. Asaph, the second bishop of the see, which from him derived its name.

The church, which has a noble tower, erected in 1571, stands on a small eminence, and is an irregular building, embattled in the front, and supported by clumsy buttresses. The interior length is 113 feet, and the breadth 38½ feet. There have been three dedications of Northop church; the first to St. Eurgain; the second to St. Mary; and the third to St. Peter. There are several remarkable monuments in this church.

The parish of Northop contains about 6000 acres of land, nearly the whole extent of which is in cultivation. The population of the parish in 1841 was 3566.

Coals are found in the lower parts of the parish, and some of the works have been extensively carried on for many years; large quantities are conveyed by iron rail-roads to Connah’s Quay, and there shipped for Chester, Liverpool, and Dublin. Lead ore is found, though not in great abundance, in the township of Caer Allwch.

OSWESTRY, (_Shropshire_.)

Chirk 5 Ellesmere 8 Llanfyllyn 14 Shrewsbury 18 Welshpool 16 Wrexham 14

This town, though not situated in Wales, is so contiguous, that it is frequently visited by travellers, either on commencing or terminating their tour, Oswestry lying on the great line of road from Llangollen to Shrewsbury. The town occupies the declivity of a range of hills, which skirt it on the western side, and command an extensive view over the fertile plains of Salop. The streets are well paved and lighted: the old buildings of timber and brick have been succeeded by respectable modern edifices; and the town, which has long been stretched beyond its ancient boundaries, is still progressively increasing in extent and importance. The population of the parish by the last census was 8843.

OVERTON, (_Flintshire_.)

Ellesmere 5 Wrexham 7

This is a neat little village, delightfully situated on the banks of the Dee, over which river is a handsome stone bridge of two lofty arches, connecting the counties of Denbigh and Flint, on the road from Chester to Shrewsbury. The surrounding scenery is beautifully picturesque. The village, with its venerable church, forms a pleasing and highly interesting feature in a charming landscape. In the churchyard are several fine yew trees. The site of the ancient castle occupies the brow of a lofty promontory overlooking the river Dee; and in the park of Gwernhaeled are the remains of a large circular camp, with an ancient tumulus. In this vicinity is the elegant seat of F. R. Price, Esq. Bryn-y-Pys.

ANGLING STATION.—The Dee up to Llangollen.

PENMAEN MAWR, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Aber 4 Bangor 9 Conway 6 Port Penrhyn 8

Penmaen Mawr is an immense hill, and so denominated from being the last of the long chain of mountains which cross the country. This gigantic rock, along which the road from Chester to Holyhead passes, exhibits a fine contrast with the adjacent fertility, by its sterile grandeur. This place was once the dread of the neighbourhood, the immense promontory affording only a narrow zig-zag path along the shelf of its frowning side for the terrified traveller to pass. Under his feet were loose masses of rugged stones, impeding his progress; beneath, a hundred fathoms down, the roaring ocean foaming against the perpendicular base of the mountain; and over his head, the impending precipice, threatening by its shivering aspect to overwhelm or hurry him headlong down the craggy steep. The danger, from the declivity of the mountain, with the crumbling nature of the strata, increased with his progress, and, in several difficult parts of the road, one false step must have inevitably proved fatal.

From the numerous accidents that occurred, it was long an object of melancholy consideration to the inhabitants in the vicinity: the winter evenings were often spent in relating the alarming tales of the perils and disasters attendant on passing Penmaen Mawr. Modern science, however, has made travelling in this fearful district both safe and attractive. By order of the Parliamentary Commissioners, a new road was opened in 1827, by the celebrated Mr. Telford. And a capacious tunnel has been constructed for the Chester and Holyhead Railway, through the adjoining mountain of Penmaen Bach, which seemed to defy every attempt to pierce its gloomy recesses.

On the summit of a lull called Braich-y-Ddinas, rising out of Penmaen, are the ruins of a castle, the fortifications of which were capable of containing 20,000 men; the remains of walls are still standing, and a well that supplied the garrison is constantly full of water, furnished principally by the _condensed_ vapour of the mountain. This was considered the strongest post possessed by the Britons in the district of Snowdon. It was deemed impregnable; and here the reduced bands of the brave Welsh army were posted, pending the negociation betwixt Edward I. and Llywelyn.

PENMORFA, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Beddgelert 7 Pwllheli 11 Pont Aberglaslyn 5½ Tremadoc 1

Penmorfa, or the Head of the Marsh, is a small wood-clad village, romantically situated on the western bank of Traeth Mawr, but is so much out of the way of tourists as to be seldom visited. The church is small, and dedicated to St. Beuno, having within a small monument to the memory of Sir John Owen, a general and supporter of Charles I., who, being taken prisoner at a battle near Bangor, was condemned to die by the Parliament; but through the intercession of Ireton, he was liberated after a few months’ imprisonment.

PENMYNYDD, (_Anglesea_.)

Beaumaris 6 Plas Newydd 5

Penmynydd is situated on the eastern side of Anglesea, near the great post road from Bangor to Holyhead, six miles from the Menai Bridge. It is celebrated as being the native place of OWEN TUDOR.

PENTRE VOELAS, (_Denbighshire_.)

Capel Curig 11 Corwen 15 Denbigh 18 Ffestiniog 14½ Llanrwst 11 Maen-Twrog 17

This is a small hamlet on the great London and Holyhead road, with a very comfortable inn. About four miles distant are the Conway waterfalls. A new road has lately been formed hence to Denbigh, and another to Ffestiniog.

PLAS NEWYDD, (_Anglesea_.)

Caernarvon 6 Llanidan 3

Plas Newydd (the New Mansion), anciently Llwyn Moel (the Grove on the Hill), one of the principal groves in Anglesea, sacred to druidic worship, once the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, but now occupied by T. Assheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol. Caernarvonshire. It is beautifully situated on the curve of the Menai, protected on three sides by venerable oak trees, and about one hundred yards of the strait, with a fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water, and defended from the encroachment of the sea by a strong parapet embattled wall.

Here the noble proprietor had the distinguished honour of entertaining his late Majesty George the Fourth, on his visit to Ireland in 1821; and also, at the invitation of the Noble Marquis, who was then exercising his official duties as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent and her illustrious daughter, the Princess (now Queen) Victoria, took up their residence for several weeks in the summer of 1822, during the time of holding the Eisteddfod at Beaumaris, where they visited and occasionally resided.

Opposite the stables, behind the house, stands the most complete cromlech in Anglesea, perhaps in Britain; and the domains abound with most interesting vestiges of antiquity.

A short distance from Plas Newydd, is Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful cottage, in the formation and embellishment of which that gentleman has displayed peculiar taste; and about half a mile to the west, within the park, is Plasgwyn, the seat of the lute Rev. Henry Rowlands, and also Llanidan Hall, the seat of Lord Boston.

On Craig-y-Dinas, a rock on the side of the London and Holyhead road, about midway between the Menai bridge and Plas Newydd, stands the Anglesea Column, erected to commemorate the exploits of the noble marquis. The first stone was laid June 18, 1816, being the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo; and the pillar was completed September 8 in the following year. Its height from the base is 100 feet, and the summit of the hill on which it is built rises 260 feet above the level of the sea. It forms an interesting and commanding object in the romantic scenery of the neighbourhood.

PONT-Y-GLYN, (_Denbighshire_.)

Bala 12 Corwen 6

Pont-y-Glyn (the Bridge of the Precipices) is situated on the great Holyhead and London road, between Corwen and Cerniogan Mawr. The woody glen, at the head of which stands Pont-y-Glyn, with its prominent rocks, nearly obscured by the surrounding foliage, forms a lovely picture. On a sudden turn of the road, stands the bridge thrown over a chasm. Beneath is the rugged and precipitous bed of the river, where, among immense masses and fragments of rocks, the stream foams with violent impetuosity. The cataract is not lofty, but from its being directly under the bridge, where it is seen dashing among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition of the pendant foliage from each side, the scene is finely picturesque and elegant. The bridge rests upon the two nearly perpendicular rocks, and appears to be 50 or 60 feet above the bed of the stream. The view thence down the hollow is truly sublime.

PWLLHELI (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Caernarvon 20 Chester 93 Cricaeth 8 London 250 Nevyn 7

Pwllheli, or the Salt Water Pit, is a pleasant market-town and sea-port, the population of which is about 1500. The market is held on Wednesday and Saturday. The Crown and Anchor, where post-chaises may be had, is accounted the principal inn; the Ship and Ivy Bush are respectable. The town, which is well built, has become a place of some resort for bathing. The parish church, which is situated about half a mile to the north of the town, is small and dilapidated. A new church, dedicated to St. Peter, was consecrated by the Bishop of Bangor September 16th, 1834. It is a neat and chaste edifice, capable of accommodating a large congregation. Two banks have branches here, the North and South Wales and the National Provincial.

The town-hall, erected in 1818, is a neat substantial edifice, the lower part of which is appropriated on market-days as shambles, and the upper part contains an excellent assembly room, and a room in which the petty sessions are held. The commerce consists entirely in the importation of coal and of shop goods from Liverpool, for the supply of which to the surrounding country Pwllheli forms a great depôt, and is esteemed the cheapest place for living in North Wales. This is one of the contributory boroughs which, with Caernarvon, returns a member to parliament.—The surrounding scenery comprehends many pictures of grandeur and of beauty; and a view from the town, embracing the whole extent of the Snowdon mountains, the Merionethshire hills, and Cardigan bay, is truly magnificent. Several improvements are in progress at Pwllheli.

RHUDDLAN, (_Flintshire_.)

Abergele 5 Flint 16 Holywell 11 London 220

Rhuddlan contains, with the chapelry of Rhyl, 2415 inhabitants. The town lies in a flat, on the eastern hank of the river Clwyd, about two miles from its influx into the sea. The river is here a little extended in width, so as, at high water, to admit vessels of 50 tons up to the bridge.

Rhuddlan was formerly a place of considerable magnitude, but no traces of its former importance are left, except in the ruins of its ancient castle. Edward the First annexed to it the privileges of a free borough, to facilitate an intercourse between the Welsh and English, for the purpose of allaying the rooted enmity and the unhappy jealousies that had for centuries rent the two countries. In all his proceedings, this monarch exhibited strong features of policy. He had been early taught that when stratagem would supply the place of men and treasure, it was at least wise, if not always just, to adopt it. Hence originated the statute of Rhuddlan, and hence was his infant son proclaimed Prince of Wales. This statute, which was passed in parliament assembled here in the year 1283, contains a set of regulations for the government of Wales; it also recites many curious particulars relative to the Welsh customs previous to Edward’s conquest, against which it was in a great measure directed.

Betwixt the town and the sea is a large marsh called Morva Rhuddlan (the Marsh of Rhuddlan), where, in the year 725, a dreadful battle was fought between the Saxons, under Offa, king of Mercia, and the Welsh, in which the latter, after an obstinate conflict, were defeated with great slaughter, Carodoc, king of North Wales, and many of his principal chieftains, being among the slain. Such of the Welsh as escaped the sword of the enemy, perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tides; and all who were taken prisoners were inhumanly massacred, without regard to age or sex. In commemoration of this disastrous event, was composed the well-known Welsh air of “Morva Rhuddlan,” which is much admired for the plaintive sweetness of its melody.

The bridge at Rhuddlan consists of two arches, built or rebuilt in 1595, with an impression of the arms of Hughes, Bishop of St. Asaph, upon one of the battlements.