Part 17

The peculiar style in which these ladies decorated their retreat has been much discussed. A palisade, ornamented with antique and grotesque figures carved in oak, enclosed the front; and the doors and windows were decorated with carving of the same material. The rooms were tastefully adorned with drawings. A carriage drive, open to strangers, crosses the lawn immediately in front of the cottage. Lady Eleanor Butler died June 2, 1829, at the advanced age of 90, and Miss Ponsonby, Dec. 9, 1831, aged 76: both were interred in the churchyard of Llangollen. To their memory is erected a monument of unique and elegant structure. It has three sides, on each of which there is an appropriate epitaph; one for Lady Eleanor Butler, another for Miss Ponsonby, and the other for their youthful servant, Mary Carrol, who had accompanied them from Ireland, the country of their birth, to this delightful retirement.

The whole property was consigned to the hammer in 1832, and was purchased by two other maiden ladies, viz. Miss Lolly and Miss Andrew, who seemed inclined to emulate the retirement of its former possessors.

There are many other genteel villas and country residences, within a convenient distance of the town, deserving of notice.

Castell Dinas Bran

is situated on a high and somewhat conical hill, about a mile from Llangollen. The building has been about a hundred yards long, and fifty in breadth; and it formerly occupied the whole crown of the mountain. From its extremely elevated situation (being about 910 feet above the surface of the Dee at Llangollen bridge), it must have been a place of vast strength. On the side which is most accessible, it was defended by trenches cut through the solid rock. The present remains consist of nothing more than a few shattered walls. There is a well of pure water on the top of the hill.

The views hence on every side are very grand. Towards the east stretches the whole vale of Llangollen, through which the Dee foams over its rocky bed; and beyond the vale is seen all the flat and highly cultivated country that extends for many miles. Just beneath lies the town of Llangollen, and towards the west is the vale of Crucis, with its back-ground of lofty mountains, whose dark sides are agreeably varied with wood and meadow. This fortress, from the style of its architecture, is evidently the work of the Britons; but by whom built, or when demolished, is a matter of mystery. Old Churchyard, who visited it in the sixteenth century, calls it “an old ruynous thing.”

Vale Crucis Abbey,

or, as it is called by the Welsh, _Monachlog Llan Egwestl_, about two miles from Llangollen, and one mile and a half from Castell Dinas Bran, on the right of the road towards Ruthin, is a grand and majestic ruin, affording some noble specimens of ancient Gothic architecture. There are still remaining of the church the east and west ends, and the south transept. Several pillars and arches also remain as interesting memorials of this exquisite relic of a past age.

The cloister on the south side, which a century ago, was only a shell, is now converted into a dwelling-house, the residence of the person who farms the adjacent lands. Three rows of groined arches, on single round pillars, support the dormitory, which is now a loft for containing corn, approached by steps from without. The area of the church is overgrown with tall ash trees, which hide from the sight some part of the ruin, but contribute greatly to its picturesque beauty.

Vale Crucis was a house of Cistercian monks, dedicated to the Virgin Mother. It was indebted for its foundation, about the year 1200, to Madoc ap Griffith Maelor, Lord of Bromfield and Dinas Brân, who, after various successes, and acquiring much booty by the reduction and ruin of English castles, dedicated a portion of his booty to the service of religion. He was interred here. At the dissolution the revenues appear to have amounted to about £200 per annum. A short time ago, the burial place of the monks was accidentally discovered, in the garden at the back of the farm-house, where many of their remains were found, which must have been there in an undisturbed state for six hundred years.

Pillar of Eliseg.

The Vale of Crucis is indebted for its name to this cross or pillar, which is to be found in a field near the abbey, and just opposite to the second mile-stone from Llangollen. This pillar is very ancient. The Rev. John Price, Bodleian librarian, (uncle of Dr. Price of Llangollen,) a great antiquary, wrote to Mr. Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, respecting this long neglected pillar, and at his suggestion it was placed in the position it now occupies. It appears to have been erected upwards of a thousand years ago, in memory of Eliseg (the father of Brochwel Yscythrog, Prince of Powys, who was slain at the battle of Chester in 607), by Concenn or Congen, his great grandson. The inscription is much defaced, so that it cannot be satisfactorily traced. The shaft was once above twelve feet long, but having been thrown down and broken, sometime during the civil wars, its upper part, only about eight feet in length, was left. After these commotions, it was suffered to lie neglected for more than a century.

Post Cysylltau, or Cysylltau Aqueduct.

From Llangollen, most tourists visit this stupendous work of art. It is a wonderful effort of ingenious contrivance, and affords a convincing proof of the incalculable capability of human energies when directed by science. This aqueduct was constructed for the purpose of conveying the Ellesmere canal over the river and vale of the Dee. It was commenced in 1795, from designs by Mr. Telford, and completed in ten years. Its direction is from north to south, crossing the Dee at right angles; and it forms, in connexion with the exquisite scenery surrounding it, a noble and magnificent picture. To view it to the best advantage, the stranger must descend on one side of it, into the valley beneath; he will then be impressed with its stupendous character. Though the aqueducts of the Romans were superior in length, in other respects they were inferior to this modern structure.

The tourist may proceed along the high road towards Chirk, four miles from the town, where a turning to the left will conduct him to Pont Cysylltau Aqueduct; or crossing the bridge at Llangollen, ascend the hill to the canal, and walk along its banks till he arrives at the aqueduct. The high road is preferable, as it commands some engaging prospects.

The aqueduct, in length 1007 feet, consists of nineteen arches, each 45 feet in the span, with the addition of 10 feet 6 inches of iron work in continuation at each end. The supporting piers are stone, of a pyramidal shape, measuring at the base 21 feet by 14 feet wide; but diminishing upwards to 12 feet by 7 at the top; and their height about 116 feet. Over this immense arcade is extended a trough, or large open caisson, made of cast iron, 11 feet 10 inches broad, by which the water of the canal is conveyed over the river 1009 feet to the opposite level. Two iron plates are screwed together from centre to centre of each arch; and along one side of the canal is a towing path, four feet in breadth, with a handsome iron balustrade, as a defence for man and horse. The elevation collectively will stand thus:—

Feet. Inches. Height of piers 116 0 Depth of trough, or caisson 5 6 Height of balustrade 4 7 Total height from surface of the Dee 126 1

At the southern end is an embankment of earth, 1500 feet in length, and seventy-five feet in height nearest the abutment of the arches. The whole undertaking is said to have cost £47,069 : 6 : 7.

On the centre arch is the following inscription:—“The nobility and gentry of the adjacent counties, having united their efforts with the great commercial interest of this country, in creating an intercourse and union between England and North Wales, by a navigable communication of the three rivers, Severn, Dee, and Mersey, for the mutual benefit of agriculture and trade, caused the first stone of this aqueduct of Pont Cyssyllte to be laid on the 25th day of July, MDCCXCV, when Richard Myddelton, of Chirk, Esq., one of the original patrons of the Ellesmere canal, was Lord of the Manor, and in the reign of our Sovereign George the Third; when the equity of the laws and the security of property promoted the general welfare of the nation, while the arts and sciences flourished by his patronage, and the conduct of civil life was improved by his example.”

The antiquarian will find some interesting remains in this neighbourhood worthy of investigation. Amongst them is a square tower, very strongly built, in advance of and at the foot of the hill on which Crow Castle stands. For many years it has been appropriated as part of a farm-house, called ‘The Tower.’ The walls of the original building or tower are very thick; and in one corner of the quadrangle there is a winding stone staircase, now concealed by a bookcase. The probability is that this old tower was an advanced station belonging to the castle. There are also vestiges of a nunnery or monastery at a place called Pengwern.

About six miles from Llangollen, on the Ruthin road, is a curious old building, called Rhydidris, near Llandaglan. The site, the extensive stabling, and the antique curiosities in the house, raise the probability that it has been garrisoned, and also been a military station of great importance.

The Shrewsbury and Chester Railway Company intend to run a branch from their main line at Ruabon to Llangollen.

Angling Stations.

The Dee from Corwen to Llangollen. “ “ from Llangollen to Overton.

LLANGYNOG, (_Montgomeryshire_.)

Bala 11 Llanfyllyn 7 Llanrhaiadr 6

Llangynog (the church of St. Cynog) is a small village, situated in a pleasing slip of fertile land, above which rises a stupendous rock of coarse slate. The river Tanat, which runs through this village, is celebrated for its delicious trout. The upper end of the vale is bounded by two vast precipices; between them juts out the rude promontory of Moel ddu Vawr. On the north side of this valley is the house of Llechwend-garth, the occasional residence of the late Thomas Thomas, Esq. of Downing, near Holywell, whose daughter married H. Davies Griffith, Esq. of Caer-Rhûn, Caernarvonshire, who, in consequence, became possessed of this estate, and was in 1835 high sheriff of the county of Montgomery. The new inn affords tolerable accommodations.

At Craig-y-Mwyn. somewhat more than two miles from the village, in 1692, a vein of lead ore was discovered, so valuable as to yield to the Powys family a clear revenue of at least £20,000 a year. It had been worked to the depth of about one hundred yards, when on a sudden the water broke in with such continuous power, that the proprietor was compelled to abandon the undertaking. About the commencement of the present century, however, the mine was leased by a company, who drove a level beneath it, in order to draw off the water, and continued the working of it for some time; they occasionally found masses of pure ore, weighing from 70 to 1001b. each. After some time the works were again discontinued, until a few years ago, when the old shaft was reopened, and the operations proceeded with considerable success.

At Craig-y-Gribin, in this parish, are some quarries of excellent blue slate, of strong and durable quality.

LLANHAIARN, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Caernarvon 13 Pwllheli 7

This is a small village, situated near the west coast of the promontory of Lleyn. Its church, standing on an eminence, forms a good land-mark.—Between this place and the sea, the lofty range of the Rival (or Yr Eifl) Mountains, which form conspicuous objects from Caernarvon and other parts of the country. Upon the first of these eminences, about a mile from Llanhaiarn, is Tre ’r Caeri (or the Town of Fortresses), which Mr. Pennant describes as “the most perfect and magnificent, as well as the most artfully constructed British post he ever behold.” The only accessible side was defended by three walls, which appear to have been very lofty. The area is irregularly shaped, and near the centre is a square space surrounded by the fragments of habitations.

LLANIDAN, (_Anglesea_.)

Caernarvon 3 Llanedwen 2 Menai Bridge 6 Plas Newydd 3

Llanidan is a little village, near the shores of the Menai, not far from the spot where the Romans landed, headed by Suetonius Paulinus, who murdered the Britons by thousands. It is called, by Rowlands, Maes Mawr Gad (the Great Army’s Field). It lies three hundred yards from the Menai, and consists of about twenty acres. The Romans entered the water about two hundred yards south of Llanfair-is-caer church, where the shore is flat, the water shallow, and only three quarters of a mile wide. At low water, and at neap tide, most of the bed is dry.

After the death of Nero, in the year 67, the natives, after six years of thraldom, threw off the Roman yoke, the Druids returned and assumed their authority and property, which they held till the year 76; when Agricola crossed the Menai, nearly a mile farther north, landed at a field yet called Pont or Pant-yr-Yscraffiau (Bridge of Boats), where the same tragedy was re-acted in this and the two adjoining fields.

The locality abounds with an interesting variety of druidical remains. Lord Boston has a residence and a park here: the house is a clumsy building, but the situation is most pleasant.

LLANIDLOES, (_Montgomeryshire_.)

Aberystwyth 30 Devil’s Bridge 19 London 193 Machynlleth 20 Newtown 14 Plinlimmon 7

Llanidloes (the Church of St. Idloes) is pleasantly situated near the Severn. The population of the whole parish is 4261, including 2562 inhabitants of the town, who are principally employed in spinning and weaving of flannels, the manufacture of which has been established in this town from a very early period, and has continued materially to increase; the softest and most durable texture is made here. The principal inn is the New Inn, an excellent and well conducted establishment, where post-chaises and other vehicles may be had; the Queen’s Head, Red Lion, and the Crown, are also respectable houses, where travellers may be well accommodated. By the late Reform Act, this town was made one of the contributory boroughs of the county.

The church was originally founded towards the close of the fifth or at the beginning of the sixth century. Of the original building the towers only remain. The present structure was built about 200 years ago. In 1816, the chancel and south wall were rebuilt; at the same time the church was renewed; and a set of new bells was hung in the tower in 1824. As is usual in all the Welsh towns, there are places of worship for various dissenting congregations. The market-day is on Saturday.

A few years ago, a handsome stone bridge of three arches was erected over the Severn, at a considerable expense; and a new and excellent line of road was opened from hence to Rhaiadr, which makes a direct and regular communication between North and South Wales. Lord Mostyn is lord of the manor; a court leet is held once a year, at Michaelmas, when officers are appointed, in whom the government of the place is vested. In the vicinity of the town are several handsome residences, the property of opulent individuals.

Within eight miles of Llanidloes, in the parish of Llanbrynmair, are two fine waterfalls, near to each other, of which the principal, called Ffrwd Vawr, is very grand, especially after heavy rains; the water having a perpendicular descent of more than one hundred and thirty feet.

Plinlimmon.

Within the limits of Llanidloes parish is partly included the lofty mountain of Plinlimmon, (or, more properly, Plumlumon, the five-peaked mountain) which is the highest in the several chains, of which it forms the centre: and from this place the ascent to its summit is usually made, being only seven miles distant from the town, whence guides from the principal inns are provided. From the highest point is obtained a fine prospect of vast extent, comprehending on the south, the hills of Cardiganshire and Radnorshire; on the west, Cardigan bay and St. George’s channel; on the north, Cader Idris and part of the Snowdon range of mountains, separating the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth; on the north-east, the Breiddyn hills, in Montgomeryshire; and on the east, part of the counties of Hereford and Salop. This mountain derives a considerable degree of interest from its giving rise to the rivers Severn, Wye, Rheidiol, and Llyvn-nant; of which the former is secondary only to the Thames in commercial importance; whilst the Wye and the Rheidiol surpass all other rivers in Britain for the picturesque beauty of their scenery.

The Severn, here called by its ancient British name of Havren, rises on the northern side of the mountain, in a stony chalybeate spring, and is speedily joined and increased by other springs rising near to its source, and by several mountain torrents, before it reaches Llanidloes.

The Wye rises from two powerful springs on the south-eastern side of the mountain, and after a long circuitous course, falls into the Severn near Chepstow.

The Rheidiol has its source in a pool called Llyn Llygad Rheidiol, and falls into the sea at Aberystwyth.

The Llyvn-nant issues from a pool called Glâs Llyn.

About twenty years ago, Llyn Llygad was entirely without fish. Two gentlemen, one of whom was the late Captain Jones, R.N., of Machynlleth, were grousing on Plinlimmon, when the conversation turned on the peculiarity of this lake being entirely destitute of the finny tribe, and the possibility of stocking it from a neighbouring rivulet. A staff net was procured, and some dozens of small trout caught in the river Rheidiol were thrown into the lake, which at that time swarmed with millions of horse leeches. Some of the trout, when placed in the pool, lay upon their sides faint and exhausted: and strange as it may appear, the rapacious leeches attached themselves to the sick fish, and actually devoured them. Others of the trout were vigorous; these and their progeny have enforced the _lex talionis_ with a vengeance; and while the fish abound, not a leech is now to be seen.

At Melin Velindre, on the route to Plinlimmon, is a romantic cataract, and near a sheep farm, called Blaen Havren, the Severn rolls its waters over a lofty ledge of slate rocks, in which gullies have been found of picturesque shapes.

About two miles from the town, on the south-east, is a spacious pool, called Llyn-ebyr, extending over a surface of nearly one hundred acres; it abounds with pike, eels, and perch, and affords excellent fishing; it is frequented by wild fowl; and during the summer season it is the resort of parties of pleasure, for whose accommodation boats belonging to gentlemen in the vicinity are kept on the pool.

Angling Stations.

_Distance from Llanidloes_. _Miles_. The Clywedog Bodaioch, on the Tavannon 5 Glan Trevnant 5 Llandinam 6½ Llangurig 5

LLANRHAIADR, (_Denbighshire_.)

Denbigh 4 Ruthin 4

Llanrhaiadr (the Village of the Cataract), on the road between Ruthin and Denbigh, is situated on a small eminence in the fertile vale of Clwyd. It derives its name from a spring at a short distance, called Ffynnon Ddyfrog, where once was a bath and chapel, dedicated to St. Ddyfrog.

The church is a very interesting and handsome structure. On the east window is a painting of the genealogy of Christ from Jesse, executed about 1533. In the church-yard is a curious inscription to John ap Robert, whose pedigree is traced up to Cadell, king of Powys.

The scenery, both to Denbigh and Ruthin, is all the way extremely beautiful.

LLANRHAIADR-YN-MOCHNANT, (_Denbighshire_.)

Bala 18 Llanfyllyn 5 Llangynog 6 Oswestry 14

This is a small village situated at the extremity of the county, in a deep hollow, surrounded by mountains.

Dr. William Morgan, the first translator of the Bible into Welsh, was vicar of this place. He was promoted to the bishopric of Llandaff, and in 1601 to that of St. Asaph, where he died in 1604. This valley is called Mochnant, (the Vale of the Rapid Brook) at the extremity of which, distant from the village about four miles and a half, is

Pistyll Rhaiadr,

(The Spout of the Cataract) reputed to be the largest waterfall in Wales. The little river Rhaiadr here falls down an almost perpendicular black crag, of 240 feet in height. For about two-thirds of this space, the water slides down the flat face of a naked rock; it rages thence through a natural arch, and, passing between two prominent sides, falls into a basin. It then passes though a well-wooded dell, forming a boundary line which separates the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, and after assisting to form some pretty scenes, falls into the Tanat. Near to the waterfall is a neat inn, built in the Gothic style, by Sir W. W. Wynn, where the stranger may meet with tolerable accommodation.

LLANRWST, (_Denbighshire_.)

Abergele 22 Bettws-y-Coed 4 Cerniogau 14 Capel Curig 10 Conway 12 Denbigh 22 Llanrhychwyn 2½ London 218 Maen-Twrog 20

This town is pleasantly situated on the western bank of the river Conway, which here forms the boundary between the counties of Denbigh and Caernarvon, in the spacious and beautiful vale of Llanrwst, environed by majestic and well-wooded hills, the land at the foot of which is plentifully watered and remarkably fertile. The town consists principally of small houses and shops, with a population of 3905 inhabitants. It has a market on Tuesday, and a branch of the North and South Wales bank. The Eagles is the principal inn; but a good house of public entertainment is sadly wanted here.

The bridge over the Conway, leading to Gwydir, is an elegant structure, built about the year 1636, from a plan by the celebrated Inigo Jones, at an expense of £1000, defrayed conjointly by the two counties which it connects. It is an extraordinary fact that a vibration of the bridge may be caused by any person standing above the middle arch and forcing himself rather smartly against the parapet.—Excellent roads have lately been made, communicating with the London, Holyhead, and Chester roads, and also with Denbigh and St. Asaph, the improved state of which has induced a considerable increase of visitors, during the summer months, to view the picturesque and much admired scenery of this neighbourhood.

Llanrwst was formerly noted for making harps; at present the spinning of woollen yarn, and the knitting of stockings, constitute the principal branches of trade. In the market-place stands the town-hall, a substantial structure, rebuilt in 1842.