Part 16

About half a mile south of the castle, at the end of a deep glen, there is a tremendous cataract, called

Ceunant Mawr,

(The Waterfall of the Great Chasm.) It is upwards of sixty feet in height, and is formed by the mountain torrent from Cwm Brwynog, which rushes through a cleft in the rock above, and after coming in a direct line, suddenly takes a turn with the broad stratum of the rock, and thus descends aslant, with a thundering noise, into the deep black pool below.

On the declivity of the mountain, and nearly opposite Dolbadarn castle, on the eastern side of the lake, are extensive slate quarries, the property of Thomas Assheton Smith, Esq., situated high among the rocks. The mode of conveying the slates down the almost precipitous descent, to the margin of the lake, was formerly singularly awkward, and apparently very dangerous. The carts, each conveying about one ton of slates in winter, and two in summer, were drawn down a serpentine path by one horse in front, and one hooked on behind, to counteract the rapidity of motion which otherwise would endanger the whole. From the lake the slates were carted in great quantities to the Menai, whence they were shipped to Ireland, Liverpool, America, &c. To avoid this great labour and danger, a railroad has been made from the quarries down to the shipping place at Velin Heli, on the Menai, a distance of about nine miles. By this road, the slates are conveyed down, at an average, it is said, of about 100 tons daily throughout the year. At this place of activity, generally designated by the name of “Dinorwic Slate Quarry,” above a thousand men are usually employed.

On the opposite side of the lake, and nearer to Caernarvon, at a place called Glyn Rhonwy, is another quarry, the property of Lord Newborough, worked by from 150 to 200 men; and the slates are conveyed by carts to Caernarvon.

This little valley can also boast of its mineral treasures. A valuable copper mine is situated on the side of the upper lake, about half a mile from the village. A stream of water, for the use of the mine, is conveyed along the mountain on each side, and over the road, just at the head of a lake, by means of a wooden conduit, supported by piers. The ore obtained is, in general, what is termed rich, on an average worth from £20 to £25 per ton; but the value consequently varies with the price of copper.

About two miles above Llanberis church, on the Capel Curig road, there is an immense stone, that has once been precipitated from above, called

The Cromlech. {140}

This stone is of some thousand tons weight, and many times larger than the celebrated mass of rock in Barrowdale, called Bowdar Stone. It lies in a place called Ynys Hettws (Hetty’s Island); and two of its sides meeting at an angle with the ground, it was once used as the habitation of an old woman, who in summer resided in the vale to feed and milk her cows. The enclosures are yet nearly entire, and are sometimes used as a sheepfold.

Gorphwysfa,

(The Resting Place), the top of the ascent between Llanberis and Capel Curig, four miles from the former, overlooks the glorious prospects before noticed. It also commands a view into the mountain pass which joins Nant Hwynan and the vale of Capel Curig. The vale of Llanberis is narrow and almost straight, nearly filled with two lakes, connected by a canal called Bala ’r Ddeulyn (the Junction of the two Lakes), celebrated (previous to the opening of the copper mines) for the abundance of the red and golden char. These fish are still caught in the lakes, though not so plentifully as formerly; the char is taken about the middle of September.

Angling Stations.

The upper and lower lakes (Bad sport). Llyn Cwm Dwythog 2 miles from Dolbadarn inn. Llyn Llydan 5 — on Snowdon. Glaslyn on the west of ditto.

LLANDEGAI, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Aber 3½ Bangor 2 Conway 10 Port Penrhyn 2

Near to the grand entrance to Penrhyn Park, are the much admired church and little village of Llandegai, hidden from the immediate view by a high wall, extending some yards in the front. The parish is more than fifteen miles in length, from the shore of the Menai straits far into the mountainous regions of Snowdon, including a wide district, abounding with almost every species of mineral treasure. The scenery of the neighbourhood is beautifully picturesque and impressively grand, comprehending on one hand a vast amphitheatre of mountains, and on the other a fine view of the Menai Straits.

The church is one of the neatest in the Principality, in the form of a cross, having a tower in the centre. Its style is Gothic, and it is supposed to have been erected about the reign of Edward the Third. Within the church is a mural monument to the memory of John Williams, lord keeper of the great seal in the reign of James the First, who died at Gloddaeth, and was interred in this church in 1650. He is represented in his episcopal dress, kneeling at the altar. There is also an elegant marble monument erected to the memory of the late Lord and Lady Penrhyn, executed by Westmacott. On one side it is supported by a female peasant, deploring the loss of the deceased, and on the other by a quarry-man, holding an iron bar and a slate knife, earnestly reading the inscription which commemorates his benefactor. Beneath are smaller figures, the first representing a boy feeding his goats on the mountains, emblematical of the state of the country when his lordship commenced his improvements; the second, two boys working in a slate quarry, emblematical of industry; the third is, one boy teaching another to read the Bible, emblematical of religious education; and the fourth, three boys with sickles in a wheat field, denoting plenty. Lord Penrhyn died in 1806.

The following is a translation of the somewhat curious Latin inscription on the monumental record of the renowned Archbishop and Lord Chancellor Williams:—“Sojourner, read, and in these few words, particularly observe that which you would not expect to find in this obscure chapel. Here lies buried John Williams, the most renowned of prelates, descended by his father’s lineage from the Williams’s of Cochwillan, and by his mother’s from the Griffiths of Penrhyn, whose great parts and eminence in all kinds of learning raised him first to the deanery of Sarum, and afterwards advanced him to that of Westminster by the favour of King James. At one and the same time he was the most intimate favourite of and privy councillor to that great king, lord keeper of the great seal of England, and bishop of the see of Lincoln, whom Charles the First honoured with the archiepiscopal mitre of York. He was thoroughly versed in all sciences—a treasury of nine languages—the very soul of pure and undefiled theology—an oracle of political tact—the very acmé and ornament of wisdom, whether sacred, canonical, civil, or municipal. His conversation was engagingly sweet—his memory more tenacious than human—a repository of all species of history—expended in magnificent edifices the sum of £20,000,—an exemplary pattern of liberality, munificence, generosity, hospitality, and compassion for the poor. In those lamentable times which followed, being worn out with the things which he saw and heard, when, by reason of the fury of the rebels, he could no longer serve his king nor his country, having lived 68 years, on the 25th of March, which was his birthday, with strong faith in Christ, and steadfast allegiance to his king, he most devotedly resigned his soul to God, dying of a quinsy. It matters little that so small a monument, placed in this obscure spot, preserves the memory of so great a man, since years and ages shall never cease to celebrate his virtues. He died 25th March, A.D. 1650.

“Pass on, traveller, it is enough, your curiosity is gratified.”

The ancient family residence, Cochwillan, is within a short distance of the church, and remains in much the same condition as when, “broken by the storms of state,” the good prelate here sought his final resting-place on earth.

LLANDUDNO, (_Caernarvonshire_.)

Abergele 16 Conway 5

Llandudno old church is situated near the promontory of Ormeshead, which forms the eastern boundary of the entrance into Beaumaris Bar. It has the appearance from the sea of a dilapidated cow-house. A new church has been erected on the side of the promontory, where the inhabitants principally reside. There are here several very valuable and extensive copper mines. The cliffs towards the sea are lofty and abrupt; and the whole scene wild and romantic in the extreme.

On the centre of the mountain is a rocking stone, called Crŷd Tudno (or the Cradle of St. Tudno); and on an eminence are the ruins of a large square building, of which the walls, apparently constructed without mortar, lie scattered in various directions. On the highest part of the promontory, and near the Great Ormeshead, a signal staff has been erected, communicating with Llysfaen on the east, and Puffin Island on the west, forming thereby a post of communication between Liverpool and Holyhead. These hills and the neighbouring woods of Gloddaeth abound in rare and curious plants. The rock just above the village of Llandudno is the only habitation in Britain of the _cotoneaster vulgaris_, which grows here abundantly.

The parish of Llandudno contains six hundred and sixty-two inhabitants.

LLANEDWEN, (_Anglesea_.)

Llanidan 2 Moel-y-Don 3

Llanedwen is a small village where Henry Rowlands, the learned author of Mona Antiqua Restaurata, was interred. He was instituted to the vicarage of this place in October, 1696, and died 1723. He lies under a black slab of Anglesea marble, in the south part of the church.

LLANELIAN, (_Anglesea_.)

Amlwch 8 Beaumaris 20

This is a small village on the eastern coast of Anglesea. The church, dedicated to St. Elian, is supposed to have been founded by the patron saint about 540; and adjoining to it is a small chapel, of very ancient foundation, measuring in its interior twelve feet by fifteen, called Myfyr, _the confessional_. A curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal form, called St. Elian’s closet, is yet left in the east wall, and is supposed to have served both the office of a communion table, and as a chest to contain the vestments and other utensils belonging to the chapel. Near to the door is placed Cyff Elian (Elian’s Chest), or poor-box. Superstitions devotees out of health send their offerings to the saint, which are put through a hole into the box.

At Point Lynas, near this place, a light-house of considerable dimensions has been erected.

LLANERCH-Y-MEDD, (_Anglesea_.)

Amlwch 6 Beaumaris 17 Holyhead 16 London 263

Llanerch-y-medd is a considerable town, with a market on Wednesday, deriving its importance chiefly from its proximity to the Parys mountain, on the northern side of Anglesea. Here are the leading fairs for Anglesea oxen, and the south country dealers attend to make their purchases for the Kent and Sussex pastures. An establishment has been opened in this town for the manufacture of snuff, in imitation of the celebrated Lundy Foot, of Dublin. There is a small but comfortable inn here.

Within one mile of the town is Llwydiaeth, the hospitable mansion of W. P. Lloyd, Esq. At a small distance is a rocking stone, held in great sanctity by the bards as a druidical remain.

LLANERVUL, (_Montgomeryshire_.)

Dolgelley 24 Llanfair 5 Machynlleth 25 Mallwydd 13 Newtown 14 Welshpool 12

This interesting little village is pleasantly situated on the banks of the river Banwy, and at the lower extremity of a narrow vale of about seven miles in length. The Cross Foxes Inn affords good accommodation. The situation of the village, being on the turnpike-road from Shrewsbury to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, causes it to be much enlivened in the summer season, by coaches passing through, conveying travellers to the bathing places at Aberystwyth and Barmouth.

The parish, extending nearly eight miles in length, and about three in breadth, is divided into six townships, comprising a population of about 1000, chiefly employed in agriculture. The lands are but partially enclosed and cultivated, the hilly parts affording only pasturage for sheep, young cattle, and Welsh ponies, during the summer; but the soil of the lower grounds is tolerably fertile, and when properly cultivated, is capable of producing grain of every kind. Within this parish, on the mountains, are several lakes of considerable extent and depth, and some of them containing great abundance of fish, chiefly trout and eels.

The most ancient manor-house in these parts is Neuadd-wen (the White-hall). This was formerly the seat of Meredydd ab Cynan, brother of Gruffydd ab Cynan, Prince of North Wales, who served the Princes of Powys, and was termed Lord of Rhiw-hiriaeth, Coedtalog, and Neuadd-wen. Some genealogists say that he was Meredydd ab Cynvyn, and brother to Bleddyn ab Cynvyn, Prince of Powys. The estate of Neuadd-wen was divided and subdivided according to the custom of gavel kind, until the time of Evan ab Owen, the last of the line of Meredydd ab Cynan, whose two daughters were married, the one to the Llwydiarth family, the other to that of Newtown Hall. In a heap of rubbish, at the back of the present farm-house of Nauadd-wen, were found pieces of free stone, with mouldings, which appeared to be the ruins of an arched window. The building seemed to have been Gothic, according to the taste of the eleventh and twelfth century. It is probable that the name of Neuadd-wen was given to the new structure, for there is a tradition that its former appellation was Llŷs Wgan, which is corrobarated by the fact, that a rivulet near the house is still called Nant Wgan.

Adjoining Neuadd-wen lies the capital farm of Llysyn, formerly the estate of Ieuan ab Bedo Gwyn, descendant of a cadet branch of the family of Neuadd-wen. This estate was afterwards purchased by the Herberts, and made the residence of some branch of that family, ancestors to the present Earl of Powys. The name of Llysyn seems to be a contraction of Llŷs-dyddyn (the Court-farm). Probably, the Princes of Powys had here a court of judicature.

This parish contains the vestiges of several tumuli, forts, and ramparts, such as those at Moel-y-ddolwen, Gardden, Rhôs-y-gallt, &c.; but the most singular vestige of antiquity here is that of the Roman causeway, called Sarn-Sws, or Sarn-Swsen, which leads from the old Roman station of Caer-Sws, near Llanidloes, to Chester; or as some will have it, from Caerllëon-ar-Wysg, in Monmouthshire, to Caerllëon-ar-Ddyfr-dwy, or Chester on the Dee. This road enters the parish of Llanervul on the hills of the Drum, and thence descends through the farms of Cae’r-Bacha, Cynniwyll, &c., and crosses the river Banwy below Neuadd-wen, and then up Craig-y-gô, whence it proceeds through the parish of Llanvihangel; and Dr. Worthington says it might be traced through the parish of Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant, at Street-Vawr, near Coed-y-Clawdd, over Rhôs-y-brithdir, to Pen-y-Street, and thence to Llamiwrch, &c. In some places the pavement may be found a little below the surface.

The church of Llanervul is dedicated to Urval Santes, a female saint, whose pedigree is not known: some suppose that the ancient tomb-stone in the church-yard was erected to her memory, but the inscription by no means corroborates that supposition.

Mrs. Priscilla Forster, a descendant of the family of the Herberts of Llysyn, bequeathed £300 for the instruction of the poor children of the parish: this sum was invested in the purchase of a farm near the village, now considered worth £35 per annum, which is appropriated agreeably to the intentions of the benevolent testatrix.

LLANFAIR, {146} (_Anglesea_.)

Llangefni 5 Pentraeth 2½

This village is celebrated as the birth-place of Goronwy Owen, of whom a Welsh author has said that “he was the greatest genius either of this age, or that ever appeared in our country; and perhaps few other countries can boast his equal for universal knowledge.” He was born in 1722, had the rudiments of his education at the grammar-school of Bangor, whence, in 1741, he went to Oxford. Four years afterwards he received holy orders at Bangor, and became curate to the Bishop at Llanfair. He successively held the curacy of Donnington, near Shrewsbury, and Walton, near Liverpool: but having only a slender income, and being disappointed in his hopes of preferment, he emigrated to America. The taste, manners, and morals of the Virginians were offensive and disgusting to this son of sorrow. He lost by death his wife and children, all but one boy; and he himself, while but comparatively a young man, sank to the grave under the pressure of accumulated misfortunes. To a perfect acquaintance with the Latin and Greek languages, he added a knowledge of the Hebrew, Chaldee, Arabic, and Syriac. His Latin odes have been universally admired for the purity of their language, and for the elegance of their expression. As a Welsh poet he ranks superior to all since the days of Dafydd ap Gwilym. Those parts of his works which have been printed are considered as perfect models of Welsh poetry. It has been lately stated that a grandson of the bard is now living in the United States, and is a member of the congress.

LLANFAIR, (_Montgomeryshire_.)

Can-Office 7 Dinas-Mowddwy 18 Mallwyd 16 Newtown 10 Oswestry 20 Welshpool 8

Llanfair, or Llanfair-Caer-Einion, a small market town pleasantly situated on the declivity of an eminence, rising from the south bank of the small river Banwy, which falls into the Vyrnwy, and on the turnpike road leading from Welshpool to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, containing 2687 inhabitants. It has a church dedicated to St. Mary, an ancient structure; and five places of worship for dissenters. The Vyrnwy abounds with such a quantity and variety of fish, as justly to entitle it to the name of _amnis piscosus_. The inhabitants of this place are said to excel in the practice of spearing fish.

Angling Stations.

Myfod (Meivod) 5 miles on the Vyrnwy. Llangynyw 2½ „ Llanervul 5 „

LLANFYLLYN, (_Montgomeryshire_.)

London 178 Mallwyd 20 Oswestry 14 Shrewsbury 25 Welshpool 12

A market town of some note, situate in a fertile valley on the banks of the river Cain, surrounded by lofty hills. The market is held on Thursday. Population, 1955.

In the centre of the town stands the church, which was erected when the excellent Dr. Beveridge was bishop of the diocese; it is a neat brick building, dedicated to St. Myllyn. The peal of bells surpasses any in the county. Here are three endowed schools; and a good town hall was built in 1775.

Bôd Fach, near this town, the seat of Lord Mostyn, was once the residence of his paternal ancestors, the Kyffins. The markets and fairs of Llanfyllyn are well attended, particularly for the purchase of Welsh merlins, which are brought here for sale in great numbers.

LLANGEFNI, (_Anglesea_.)

Beaumaris 12 Llanerch-y-Medd 7 Menai Bridge 7 Mona Inn 3

This is a small but neat market town centrally situated in the island. The markets and fairs are of considerable importance. It is one of the contributory boroughs; the present M.P. being Col. Paget. There is a neat church under the hill, and the town is romantically situated. The principal inn is Pen-y-bont.

Tregarnedd, now only a farm-house, but once the residence of Ednyfed Vychan, an able chieftain to Llywelyn the Great, is in this parish.

About three miles distant on the Llanerch-y-medd road is Tregaian, the residence of Vice-Admiral Lloyd. Not far off is Maen Rhos Rhyfel, where Owen Gwynedd obtained a signal victory over an invading army of Erse, Manksmen, and Normans. The population of Llangefni is 1753.

[Picture: Llangollen bridge]

LLANGOLLEN, (_Denbighshire_.)

Chester 23 Chirk 7 Corwen 10 London 183 Oswestry 12 Ruabon 6 Ruthin 15 Wrexham 12

The name of this place is derived from the dedication of its church to an ancient British saint named Collen, whose lineage runs thus, in names almost unpronounceable by Saxon tongues—St. Collen ap Gwynnawg ap Clydawg ap Cowrda ap Caredog Freichfras ap Llyr Merim ap Einion Yrth ap Cunededd ap Wledig. The town, which is beautifully situated in a deep narrow valley, enclosed by lofty mountains, and watered by the noble stream of the Dee, appears anciently to have been protected by the neighbouring fortress of Castell Dinas Bran, situated on the summit of a vast conical hill in its neighbourhood. The houses are in general old or rather mean in appearance, though occasionally interspersed with some modern handsome dwellings; and there is excellent accommodation for the numerous visitors who frequent the neighbourhood during the summer season. The pure air and mild temperature cause a number of families to adopt this locality as a permanent retreat. The Hand, the King’s Head and Royal Hotel, are the two principal inns. Population, 1500.

Here is a stone bridge over the Dee, consisting of four pointed arches, erected in the year 1345, by John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, and which was anciently regarded as one of the wonders of North Wales. The scenery of the neighbourhood is pre-eminent for its grandeur and sublimity, and for its picturesque and romantic beauty.

The church is an ancient structure, with small pretensions to architectural beauty, except some fine carvings on the roof and other parts of the interior. The view from the churchyard is remarkably pretty, embracing the bridge, the weir, and Crow Castle. The talented and self taught clerk, Mr. Jones, may be consulted by writers with profit, as a person of considerable attainments and general information. The church services are alternately in the Welsh and English language.

The market is held on Saturday, and is well supplied with butcher’s meat, but very little corn is sold. By the late act for amending the representation, Llangollen has been made a polling-place in the election of knights for the shire.

Llangollen Vale,

a district long celebrated in prose and verse for its varied beauties, is bounded on each side by lofty mountains of imposing grandeur. It is certainly a charming and romantic spot; and though not so grandly impressive, or so surpassingly beautiful as some of the other Welsh valleys, its lovely features become more attractive on a familiar acquaintance. A remarkable range of lime-stone hills, called the Eglwyseg Rocks, adds a singular variety to the landscape. It is almost needless to observe that “Llangollen, that sweetest of vales,” is the scene of the home of “Jenny Jones,” whose charms are sung in Charles Matthews’ popular ballad.—In this vale, and within a quarter of a mile from the town, stands

Plas Newydd,

the famed retreat of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, better known, probably, as _the two recluses_ of Llangollen Vale. These two females, delighted with the scenery around Llangollen, when it was little known to the rest of the world, sought here, about the year 1778, a philosophical retirement from the frivolities of fashionable life, and selected and improved a dwelling that commands a fine mountain prospect, which obtained the name of Plâs Newydd. This elegant little cottage is situated on a small knoll, and surrounded by very tasteful grounds.