Chapter 13

Scrape and gut them, wash and dry them clean, season them with pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg; let the two last seasonings be higher than the other; put a little butter at the bottom of the pot, then lie in the dish, and put butter at the top, three pounds of butter to four pounds of chare; when they are baked (before they are cold) pour off the gravy and butter, put two or three spoonfuls of butter into the pot you keep them in, then lie in the dish, scum the butter clean from the gravy, and put the butter over the dish, so keep it for use.

15. SALMON _en_ Maigre.

Cut some slices of fresh salmon the thickness of your thumb, put them in a stew-pan with a little onion, white pepper and mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs, pour over it half a pint of white wine, half a jill of water, and four ounces of butter (to a pound and half of salmon;) cover the stew-pot close, and stew it half an hour; then take out the salmon, and place it on the dish; strain off the liquor, and have ready craw-fish, pick'd from the shell, or lobster cut in small pieces; pound the shells of the craw-fish, or the seeds of the lobster, and give it a turn in the liquor; thicken it, and serve it up hot with the craw-fish, or lobster, over the salmon.

Trouts may be done the same way, only cut off their heads.

16. LOBSTER A'L'ITALIENNE.

Cut the tail of the lobster in square pieces, take the meat out of the claws, bruise the red part of the lobster very fine, stir it in a pan with a little butter, put some gravy to it; strain it off while hot, then put in the lobster with a little salt; make it hot, and send it up with sippets round your dish.

17. _To do_ CHICKENS, _or any_ FOWL'S FEET.

Scald the feet till the skin will come off, then cut off the nails; stew them in a pot close cover'd set in water, and some pieces of fat meat till they are very tender; when you set them on the fire, put to them some whole pepper, onion, salt, and some sweet herbs; when they are taken out, wet them over with the yolk of an egg, and dridge them well with bread-crumbs; so fry them crisp.

18. LARKS _done in_ JELLY.

Boil a knuckle of veal in a gallon of water till it is reduced to three pints, (it must not be covered but done over a clear fire) scum it well and clarify it, then season the larks with pepper and salt, put them in a pot with butter, and send them to the oven; when baked take them out of the butter whilst hot, take the jelly and season it to your taste with pepper and salt; then put the jelly and larks into a pan together, and give them a scald over the fire; so lie them in pots and cover them well with jelly. When you use them, turn them out of the pots, and serve them up.

19. _The Fine_ CATCHUP.

Take three quarts of red port, a pint of vinegar, one pound of anchovies unwash'd, pickle and altogether, half an ounce of mace, ten cloves, eight races of ginger, one spoonful of black pepper, eight ounces of horseradish, half a lemon-peel, a bunch of winter-savory, and four shalots; stew these in a pot, within a kettle of water, one full hour, then strain it thro' a close sieve, and when it is cold bottle it; shake it well before you bottle it, that the sediment may mix. You may stew all the ingredients over again, in a quart of wine for present use.

20. WALNUT CATCHUP.

Take the walnuts when they are ready for pickling, beat them in a mortar, and strain the juice thro' a flannel bag; put to a quart of juice a jill of white wine, a jill of vinegar, twelve shalots sliced, a quarter of an ounce of mace, two nutmegs sliced, one ounce of black pepper, twenty four cloves, and the peels of two Seville oranges, pared so thin that no white appears, boil it over a slow fire very well, and scum it as it boils; let it stand a week or ten days cover'd very close, then pour it thro' the bag, and bottle it.

21. _A very good_ White _or_ Almond Soop.

Take veal, fowl, or any white meat, boiled down with a little mace, (or other spice to your taste) let these boil to mash, then strain off the gravy; take some of the white fleshy part of the meat and rub it thro' a cullender; have ready two ounces of almonds beat fine, rub these thro' the cullender, then put all into the gravy, set it on the fire to thicken a little, and stir in it two or three spoonfuls of cream, and a little butter work'd in flour; then have ready a French roll crisp'd for the middle, and slips of bread cut long like Savoy biskets. Serve it up hot.

22. ALMOND PUDDING.

Take one pound of almonds, blanch'd and beat fine, one pint of cream, the yolks of twelve eggs, two ounces of grated bread, half a pound of suet, marrow, or melted butter, three quarters of a pound of fine sugar, a little lemon-peel and cinnamon; bake it in a slow oven, in a dish, or little tins. The above are very good put in skins.

23. ALMOND PUDDING _another Way_.

Boil a quart of cream, when cold, mix in the whites of seven eggs well beat; blanch five ounces of almonds, beat them with rose or orange-flower water, mix in the eggs and cream; sweeten it to your taste with fine powder sugar, then mix in a little citron or orange, put a thin paste at the bottom, and a thicker round the edge of the dish. Bake in a slow oven.--Sauce. Wine and sugar.

24. Almond Cheesecakes _another Way_.

Six ounces of almonds, blanch'd and beat with rose-water; six ounces of butter beat to cream; half a pound of fine sugar; six eggs well beat, and a little mace. Bake these in little tins, in cold butter paste.

25. _A_ LEMON PUDDING _another Way_.

Take a quarter of a pound of almonds, three quarters of a pound of sugar, beat and searc'd, half a pound of butter; beat the almonds with a little rose-water, grate the rinds of two lemons, beat eleven eggs, leave out two whites, melt the butter an stir it in; when the oven is ready mix all these well together, with the juice of one or two lemons to your taste; put a thin paste at the bottom, and a thicker round the edge of the dish.

Sauce. Wine and sugar.

26. POTATOE PUDDING _another Way_.

Take three quarters of a pound of potatoes, when boil'd and peel'd, beat them in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of suet or butter, (if butter, melt it) a quarter of a pound of powder sugar, five eggs well beat, a pint of good milk, one spoonful of flour, a little mace or cinnamon, and three spoonfuls of wine or brandy; mix all these well together, and bake it in a pretty quick oven.

Sauce. Wine and butter.

27. CARROT PUDDING _another Way_.

Take half a pound of carrots, when boil'd and peel'd, beat them in a mortar, two ounces of grated bread, a pint of cream, half a pound of suet or marrow, a glass of sack, a little cinnamon, half a pound of sugar, six eggs well beat, leaving out three of the whites, and a quarter of a pound of macaroons; mix all well together; puff-paste round the dish-edge.

Sauce. Wine and sugar.

28. WHITE POTT _another Way_.

A layer of white bread cut thin at the bottom of the dish, a layer of apples cut thin, a layer of marrow or suet, currans, raisins, sugar and nutmeg, then the bread, and so on, as above, till the dish is fill'd up; beat four eggs, and mix them with a pint of good milk, a little sugar and nutmeg, and pour it over the top. This should be made three or four hours before it is baked.

Sauce. Wine and butter.

29. HUNTING PUDDING _another Way_.

Take a pound of grated bread, a pound of suet and a pound of currans, eight eggs, a glass of brandy, a little sugar, and a little beat cinnamon; mix these well together, and boil it two hours at the least.

30. ALMOND BISKETS.

Blanch a pound of almonds, lie them in water for three or four hours, dry them with a cloth, and beat them fine with eight spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower water; then boil a pound of fine sugar to wire-height, and stir in the almonds, mix them well over the fire; but do not let them boil; pour them into a bason, and beat them with a spoon 'till quite cold; then beat six whites of eggs, a quarter of a pound of starch, beat and searc'd, beat the eggs and starch together, 'till thick; stir in the almonds, and put them in queen-cake tins, half full, dust them over with a little searc'd sugar; bake 'em in a slow oven, and keep them dry.

31. _To make_ ALMOND BUTTER _another Way_.

Take a quart of cream, six eggs well beat, mix them and strain them into a pan, keep it stirring on the fire whilst it be ready to boil; then add a jack of sack, keeping it stirring till it comes to a curd; wrap it close in a cloth till the whey be run from it; then put the curd into a mortar, and beat it very fine, together with a quarter of a pound of blanch'd almonds, beaten with rose-water, and half a pound of loaf sugar; When all these are well beaten together, put it into glasses.

This will keep a fortnight.

32. APRICOCK JUMBALLS.

Take ripe apricocks, pare, stone, and beat them small, then boil them till they are thick, and the moisture dry'd up, then take them off the fire, and beat them up with searc'd sugar, to make them into pretty stiff paste, roll them, without sugar, the thickness of a straw; make them up in little knots in what form you please; dry them in a stove or in the sun. You may make jumballs of any sort of fruit the same way.

33. BURNT CREAM.

Boil a stick of cinnamon in a pint of cream, four eggs well beat, leaving out two whites, boil the cream and thicken it with the eggs as for a custard; then put it in your dish, and put over it half a pound of loaf sugar beat and searc'd; heat a fire-shovel red-hot, and hold it over the top till the sugar be brown. So serve it up.

34. _Little_ PLUMB CAKES.

Take two pounds of flour dry'd, three pounds of currans well wash'd, pick'd and dry'd, four eggs beaten with two spoonfuls of sack, half a jack of cream, and one spoonful of orange-flower or rose-water; two nutmegs grated, one pound of butter wash'd in rose-water and rub'd into the flour, and one pound of loaf sugar searc'd, mix all well together, and put in the currans; butter the tins and bake them in a quick oven; half an hour will bake it.

35. York GINGER-BREAD _another Way_.

Take two pounds and a half of stale bread grated fine, (but not dry'd) two pound of fine powder sugar, an ounce of cinnamon, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of ginger, a quarter of an ounce of saunders, and a quarter of a pound of almonds; boil the sugar, saunders, ginger, and mace in half a pint of red wine; then put in three spoonfuls of brandy, cinnamon, and a quarter of an ounce of cloves; stir in half the bread on the fire, but do not let it boil; pour it out, and work in the rest of the bread with the almonds; then smother it close half an hour; print it with cinnamon and sugar search'd, and keep it dry.

36. GINGER-BREAD _in little Tins_.

To three quarters of a pound of flour, put half a pound of treacle, one pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter; mace, cloves, and nutmeg, in all a quarter of an ounce; a little ginger, and a few carraway seeds; melt the butter in a glass of brandy, mix altogether with one egg; then butter the tins, and bake them in a pretty quick oven.

37. OAT-MEAL CAKES.

Take a peck of fine flour, half a peck of oat-meal, and mix it well together; put to it seven eggs well beat, three quarts of new milk, a little warm water, a pint of sack, and a pint of new yeast; mix all these well together, and let it stand to rise; then bake them. Butter the stone every time you lie on the cakes, and make them rather thicker than a pan-cake.

38. BATH CAKES.

Take two pounds of flour, a pound of sugar, and a pound of butter; wash the butter in orange-flower water, and dry the flour; rub the butter into the flour as for puff-paste, beat three eggs fine in three spoonfuls of cream, and a little mace and salt, mix these well together with your hand, and make them into little cakes; rub them over with white of egg, and grate sugar upon them; a quarter of an hour will bake them in a slow oven.

39. _A Rich White_ PLUMB-CAKE.

Take four pounds of flour dry'd, two pounds of butter, one pound and a half of double refin'd sugar beat and searc'd, beat the butter to cream, then put in the sugar and beat it well together; sixteen eggs leaving out four yolks; a pint of new yeast; five jills of good cream, and one ounce of mace shred; beat the eggs well and mix them with the butter and sugar; put the mace in the flour; warm the cream, mix it with the yeast, and run it thro' a hair sieve, mix all these into a paste; then add one pound of almonds blanch'd and cut small, and six pounds of currans well wash'd, pick'd and dry'd; when the oven is ready, stir in the currans, with one pound of citron, lemon or orange; then butter the hoop and put it in.

This cake will require two hours and a half baking in a quick oven.

40. _An_ ISING _for the_ CAKE.

One pound and a half of double-refin'd sugar, beat and searc'd; the whites of four eggs, the bigness of a walnut of gum-dragon, steep'd in rose or orange-flower water; two ounces of starch, beat fine with a little powder-blue (which adds to the whiteness) while the cake is baking beat the ising and lie it on with a knife as soon as the cake is brought from the oven.

41. LEMON BRANDY.

Pour a gallon of brandy into an earthen pot, put to it the yellow peel of two dozen lemons, let it stand two days and two nights, then pour two quarts of spring water into a pan and dissolve in it two pounds of refin'd loaf sugar, boil it a quarter of an hour, and put it to the brandy; then boil and scum three jills of blue milk, and mix all together, let it stand two days more, then run it thro' a flannel bag, or a paper within a tunnel, and bottle it.

42. _To make_ RATIFEE _another Way_.

Take a hundred apricocks stones, break them, and bruise the kernels, then put them in a quart of the best brandy; let them stand a fortnight; shake them every day; put to them six ounces of white sugar-candy, and let them stand a week longer; then put the liquor thro' a jelly bag, and bottle it for use.

43. _To preserve_ GRAPES _all Winter_.

Pull them when dry, dip the stalks about an an inch of boiling water, and seal the end with wax; chop wheat straw and put a little at the bottom of the barrel, then a layer of grapes, and a layer of straw, 'till the barrel is fill'd up; do not lie the bunches too near one another; stop the barrel close, and set it in a dry place; but not any way in the sun.

44. _To preserve_ GRAPES _another Way_.

Take ripe grapes and stone them; to every pound of grapes take a pound of double-refined sugar; let them stand till the sugar is dissolved; boil them pretty quick till clear; then strain out the grapes, and add half a pound of pippen jelly, and half a pound more sugar; boil and skim it till a jelly; put in the grapes to heat; afterwards strain them out, and give the jelly a boil; put it to the grapes and stir it till near cold; then glass it.

45. BARBERRY CAKES.

Draw off the juice as for curran jelly, take the weight of the jelly in sugar, boil the sugar to sugar again; then put in the jelly, and keep stirring till the sugar is dissolved; let it be hot, but not boil; then pour it out, and stir it three or four times; when it is near cold drop it on glasses in little cakes, and set them in the stove. If you would have them in the form of jumballs, boil the sugar to a high candy, but not to sugar again, and pour it on a pie plate; when it will part from the plate cut it, and turn them into what form you please.

46. BARBERRY DROPS.

When the barberries are full ripe, pull 'em off the stalk, put them in a pot, and boil them in a pan of water till they are soft, then pulp them thro' a hair-sieve, beat and searce the sugar, and mix as much of the searc'd sugar with the pulp, as will make it of the consistance of a light paste; then drop them with a pen-knife on paper (glaz'd with a slight stone) and set them within the air of the fire for an hour, then take them off the paper and keep them dry.

47. _To candy_ ORANGES _whole another Way_.

Take the Seville oranges, pare off the red as thin as you can, then tie them in a thin cloth (with a lead weight to keep the cloth down) put 'em in a lead or cistern of river water, let them lie five or six days, stirring 'em about every day, then boil them while they are very tender, that you may put a straw thro' them; mark them at the top with a thimble, cut it out, and take out all the inside very carefully, then wash the skins clean in warm water, and set them to drain with the tops downwards; fine the sugar very well, and when it is cold put in the oranges; drain the syrrup from the oranges, and boil it every day till it be very thick, then once a month; one orange will take a pound of sugar.

48. _To candy_ GINGER.

Take the thickest races of ginger, put them them in an earthen pot, and cover them with river water; put fresh water to them every day for a fortnight; then tie the ginger in a cloth, and boil it an hour in a large pan of water; scrape off the brown rind, and cut the inside of the races as broad and thin as you can, one pound of ginger will take three pounds of loaf sugar; beat and searce the sugar, and put a layer of the thin-slic'd ginger, and a layer of searc'd sugar into an earthen bowl, having sugar at the top; stir it well every other day for a fortnight, then boil it over a little charcoal; when it is candy-height take it out of the pan as quick as you can with a spoon, and lie it in cakes on a board; when near cold take them off and keep them dry.

49. _To preserve_ WINE-SOURS.

Take wine-sours and loaf sugar an equal weight, wet the sugar with water; the white of one egg will fine four pounds of sugar, and as the scum rises throw on a little water; then take off the pan, let it stand a little to settle and skim it; boil it again while any scum rises; when it is clear and a thick syrrup, take it off, and let it stand till near cold; then nick the plumbs down the seam, and let them have a gentle heat over the fire; take the plumbs and syrrup and let them stand a day or two, but don't cover them; then give them another gentle heat; let them stand a day longer, and heat them again; take the plumbs out out and drain them, boil the syrrup and skim it well, then put the syrrup on the winesours, and when cold, put them into bottles or pots, tie a bladder close over the top, so keep them for use.

50. CURRAN JELLY.

Take eight pounds of ripe, pick'd fruit, put these into three pounds of sugar boil'd candy height, and so let these simmer till the jelly will set; then run it off clear thro' a flannel bag, and glass it up for use. This never looks blue, nor skims half so much, as the other way.

51. _To preserve red or white_ CURRANS _whole_.

Pick two pounds of currans from the stalks, then take a pound and a half of loaf sugar, and wet it in half a pint of curran juice, put in the berries, and boil them over a slow fire till they are clear; when cold put them in small berry bottles, with a little mutton suet over them.

52. SYRRUP OF POPPIES.

Take two pounds of poppy flowers, two ounces of raisins, shred them, and to every pound of poppies put a quart of boiling water, half an ounce of sliced liquorice, and a quarter of an ounce of anniseeds; let these stand twelve hours to infuse, then strain off the liquor, and put it upon the same quantity of poppies, raisins, liquorice, and anniseeds as before, and let this stand twelve hours to infuse, which must be in a pitcher, set within a pot or pan of hot water; then strain it, and take the weight in sugar, and boil it to a syrrup: when it is cold, bottle it.

53. _To make_ BLACK PAPER _for drawing Patterns_.

Take a quarter of a pound of mutton suet, and one ounce of bees wax, melt both together and put in as much lamp black as will colour it dark enough, then spread it over your paper with a rag, and hold it to the fire to make it smooth.

54. GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR _another Way_.

To every gallon of water, put six pounds of ripe gooseberries; boil the water and let it be cold, squeeze the berries, and then pour on the water; let it stand cover'd three days pretty warm to work, stirring it once a day; then strain it off, and to every six gallons put three pounds of coarse sugar, let it stand till it has done working, then bung it up, and keep it moderately warm, in nine months it will be ready for use.

55. _To make bad Ale into good strong Beer_.

Draw off the ale into a clean vessel, (supposing half a hogshead) only leave out eight or ten quarts, to which put four pounds of good hops, boil this near an hour; when quite cold, put the ale and hops into the hogshead, with eight pounds of treacle, mix'd well with four or five quarts of boil'd ale; stir it well together, and bung it up close: Let it stand six months, then bottle it for use.

56. _Green_ GOOSEBERRY WINE.

To every quart of gooseberries, take a quart of spring water, bruise them in a mortar, put the water to them and let them stand two or three days, then strain it off, and to every gallon of liquor put three pounds and a half of sugar, then put it into the barrel, and it will of itself rise to a froth, which take off, and keep the barrel full; when the froth is all work'd off, bung it up for six weeks, then rack it off, and when the lees are clean taken out, put the wine into the same barrel; and to every gallon put half a pound of sugar, made in syrrup, and when cold mix with wine; to every five gallons, have an ounce of isinglass, dissolv'd in a little of the wine, and put in with the syrrup, so bung it up; when fine, you may either bottle it or draw it out of the vessel. Lisbon sugar is thought the best. This wine drinks like sack.

57. GINGER WINE.

Take fourteen quarts of water, three pounds of loaf sugar, and one ounce of ginger sliced thin, boil these together half an hour, fine it with the whites of two eggs; when new milk warm put in three lemons, a quart of brandy, and a white bread toast, covered on both sides with yeast; put all these together into a stand, and work it in one day; then tun it: It will be ready to bottle in five days, and be ready to drink in a week after it is bottled.

58. COWSLIP WINE _another Way_.

To five gallons of water, put two pecks of cowslip peeps, and thirteen pounds of loaf sugar; boil the sugar and water with the rinds of two lemons, half an hour, and fine it with the whites of two eggs; when it is near cold put in the cowslips, and set on six spoonfuls of new yeast, work it two days, stirring it twice a day; when you squeeze out the peeps to tun it, put in the juice of six lemons, and when it has done working in the vessel, put in the quarter of an ounce of isinglass, dissolv'd in the little of the wine till it is a jelly; add a pint of brandy, bung it close up two months, then bottle it. This is right good.

59. STRONG MEAD _another Way_.

To thirty quarts of water, put ten quarts of honey, let the water be pretty warm, then break in the honey, stirring it till it be all dissolv'd, boil it a full half hour, when clean scum'd that no more will rise, put in half an ounce of hops, pick'd clean from the stalks; a quarter of an ounce of ginger sliced (only put in half the ginger) and boil it a quarter of an hour longer; then lade it out into the stand thro' a hair-tems, and put the remainder of the ginger in, when it is cold tun it into the vessel, which must be full; but not clay'd up till near a month: make it the latter end of _September_, and keep it a year in the vessel after it is clay'd up.

60. FRENCH BREAD.