Chapter 34
|-----------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Alphabetical list of the names and the numbers of the 450 shades | | D.M.C Alsace Thread, Sewing and Embroidery Cottons, | | contained in the D.M.C colour-card, in any of which shades the | | knitting Cotton, Soutaches and Braids etc. are to be had. | |--------------------+------------+-------+--------+-------+------------+ | Couleurs | Très-foncé | Foncé | Moyen | Clair | Très-clair | | Colours | Very dark | Dark | Medium | Light | Very light | |--------------------+------------+-------+--------+-------+------------+ | Bleu d’Azur | | | | 3325 | | | Bleu-Canard | 3395 | 3306 | 3307 | 3308 | 3309 | | Bleu cendré | | | 448 | | | | Bleu de Ciel | 515 | 516 | 517 | 518 | 519 | | Bleu-Fayence | 481 | 482 | 483 | 484 | 485 | | Bleu de France | 337 | 338 | 339 | 340 | 341 | | Bleu-Gentiane | 476 | 477 | 478 | 479 | 480 | | Bleu-Gris | 3300 | 3301 | 3302 | 3303 | 3304 | | Bleu-Indigo | 336 | 311 | 312 | 322 | 334 | | Bleu-Lapis | 342 | 333 | 343 | 344 | 345 | | Bleu-Marin | 505 | 506 | 507 | 508 | 509 | | Bleu-Outremer | | 682 | 683 | | | | Bleu pâle | | | | 668 | | | Bleu-Prunelle | 486 | 487 | 488 | 489 | 490 | | Bleu tendre | | | | | 709 | | Bleu vert | 525 | 526 | 527 | 528 | 529 | | Bleu violacé | | 674 | 675 | | | | ----- | | | | | | | Bronze doré | 585 | 586 | 587 | 588 | 589 | | ----- | | | | | | | Brun-Acajou | 300 | 400 | 301 | 401 | 402 | | Brun-Cachou | 433 | 434 | 435 | 436 | 437 | | Brun-Cannelle | 660 | 661 | 662 | 663 | 664 | | Brun-Caroubier | 354 | 355 | 303 | 356 | 357 | | Brun-Chamois | 416 | 417 | 324 | 418 | 419 | | Brun-Cuir | 430 | 431 | 302 | 432 | 325 | | Brun-Feuille-morte | 615 | 616 | 617 | 618 | 619 | | Brun-Havane | 454 | 455 | 456 | 457 | 458 | | Brun-Loutre | 438 | 439 | 440 | 441 | 442 | | Brun-Marron | 403 | 404 | 405 | 406 | 407 | | Brun-Myrthe | | | 463 | | | | Brun-Puce | 459 | | | | | | Brun-Rouille | 3310 | 3311 | 3312 | 3313 | 3314 | | ----- | | | | | | | Gris-Acier | 650 | 651 | 652 | 653 | 654 | | Gris-Amadou | 329 | 383 | 384 | 385 | 386 | | Gris d’Argent | | | 719 | | | | Gris-Bleu | 590 | 591 | 592 | 593 | 594 | | Gris-Bois | 610 | 611 | 612 | 613 | 614 | | Gris-Brun | 408 | 409 | 410 | 411 | 412 | | Gris-Castor | 645 | 646 | 647 | 648 | 649 | | Gris-Cendre | 413 | 317 | 414 | 318 | 415 | | Gris-Coutil | 387 | 388 | 323 | 389 | 390 | | Gris-Deuil | 655 | 656 | 657 | 658 | 659 | | Gris-Écru | | 704 | 705 | 706 | | | Gris-Etoupe | | 707 | 708 | | | | Gris de Fer | 600 | 601 | 602 | 603 | 604 | | Gris-Feutre | 635 | 636 | 637 | 638 | 639 | | Gris-Ficelle | | 460 | 461 | 462 | | | Gris-Foin | 520 | 521 | 522 | 523 | 524 | | Gris-Fumée | 640 | 641 | 642 | 643 | 644 | | Gris-Lin | | | 716 | 717 | | | Gris-Mastic | | | 718 | | | | Gris neutre | 620 | 621 | 622 | 623 | 624 | | Gris-Noisette | 420 | 421 | 422 | 423 | 424 | | Gris-Perle | 625 | 626 | 627 | 628 | 629 | | Gris de Plomb | 378 | 379 | 380 | 381 | 382 | | Gris-Poussière | 630 | 631 | 632 | 633 | 634 | | Gris-Souris | 425 | 426 | 427 | 428 | 429 | | Gris-Tilleul | 391 | 392 | 393 | 330 | 331 | | Gris verdâtre | 595 | 596 | 597 | 598 | 599 | |--------------------+------------+-------+--------+-------+------------+ | Couleurs | Très-foncé | Foncé | Moyen | Clair | Très-clair | | Colours | Very dark | Dark | Medium | Light | Very light | |--------------------+------------+-------+--------+-------+------------+ | Jaune-Citron | | 307 | 445 | 446 | | | Jaune-Crême | | | 711 | 712 | | | Jaune-Maïs | 575 | 576 | 577 | 678 | 579 | | Jaune d’Ocre | | | 676 | 677 | | | Jaune-Orange | | | 443 | 444 | | | Jaune-Rouille | 363 | 364 | 308 | 365 | 366 | | Jaune d’Or | | | 667 | | | | Jaune-vieil-Or | 678 | 679 | 680 | | | | ----- | | | | | | | Lilas gris | 313 | 398 | 314 | 328 | 399 | | ----- | | | | | | | Noir grand-teint | 310 | | | | | | Noir-Jais | 681 | | | | | | Noir vert | 473 | | | | | | ----- | | | | | | | Rose-Eglantine | 570 | 571 | 572 | 573 | 574 | | Rose tendre | | | | | 3326 | | Rose vif | 565 | 566 | 567 | 568 | 569 | | ----- | | | | | | | Rouge-Aurore | 360 | 306 | 361 | 332 | 362 | | Rouge-Bordeaux | 496 | 497 | | | | | Rouge-Cardinal | 346 | 347 | 304 | 305 | 348 | | Rouge-Cerise | 3315 | 3316 | 3317 | 3318 | 3319 | | Rouge-Corinthe | | | 447 | | | | Rouge-Cornouille | | 449 | 450 | | | | Rouge-Ecarlate | | 498 | 464 | | | | Rouge-Framboise | 684 | 685 | 686 | 687 | 688 | | Rouge-Géranium | 349 | 350 | 351 | 352 | 353 | | Rouge-Grenat | 358 | 359 | 326 | 309 | 335 | | Rouge-Groseille | 605 | 606 | 607 | 608 | 609 | | Rouge-Maroquin | | | 3327 | 3328 | 3329 | | Rouge-Turc | | | 321 | | | | Rouge-Vermillon | | | 666 | | | | ----- | | | | | | | Vert-Bouteille | 491 | 492 | 493 | 494 | 495 | | Vert-Bronze | 669 | 670 | 671 | 672 | 673 | | Vert-Canard | 545 | 546 | 547 | 548 | 549 | | Vert-Corbeau | 665 | | | | | | Vert doré | 580 | 581 | 582 | 583 | 584 | | Vert d’Eau | | | 713 | 714 | 715 | | Vert-de-gris | | 474 | 475 | | | | Vert-Emeraude | 555 | 556 | 557 | 558 | 559 | | Vert-Fauve | 689 | 690 | 691 | 692 | 693 | | Vert-Lierre | 500 | 501 | 502 | 503 | 504 | | Vert-Madeira | | | | 710 | | | Vert-Malachite | 560 | 561 | 562 | 563 | 564 | | Vert métallique | 465 | 466 | 467 | | | | Vert-Mousse | 468 | 469 | 470 | 471 | 472 | | Vert-Myrthe | 535 | 536 | 537 | 538 | 539 | | Vert-Olive | 510 | 511 | 512 | 513 | 514 | | Vert-Perroquet | 694 | 695 | 696 | 697 | 698 | | Vert-Pistache | 319 | 367 | 320 | 368 | 369 | | Vert-Pré | 699 | 700 | 701 | 702 | 703 | | Vert russe | | 499 | | | | | ----- | | | | | | | Violet-Améthyste | 3320 | 3321 | 3322 | 3323 | 3324 | | Violet-Evêque | 451 | 452 | 453 | | | | Violet-Lie-de-vin | 370 | 371 | 372 | 373 | 374 | | Violet-Mauve | 375 | 315 | 376 | 316 | 377 | | Violet-de-Parme | 540 | 541 | 542 | 543 | 544 | | Violet-Pensée | 530 | 531 | 532 | 533 | 534 | | Violet-Prune | 550 | 551 | 552 | 553 | 554 | | Violet-Scabieuse | 394 | 327 | 395 | 396 | 397 | |--------------------+------------+-------+--------+-------+------------+ | Couleurs | Très-foncé | Foncé | Moyen | Clair | Très-clair | | Colours | Very dark | Dark | Medium | Light | Very light | |--------------------+------------+-------+--------+-------+------------+
To avoid mistakes the public is urgently requested to designate the colours by the number, never by name.
The colours whose numbers begin with 3 or 4 are the fastest.
* * * * *
Further information respecting mode of execution, materials and so forth may be had by applying to the firm of
TH. DE DILLMONT, DORNACH (ALSACE).
FOOTNOTES:
[3] The D.M.C colour-card consists of 450 shades about half of which are fast dyes. See the list of names on pp. 572 and 573.
[4] By fast (bon-teint) colours are meant those which will bear ordinary and repeated washing. There are only very few which are really fast, or grand-teint, that is to say, which will resist the action of chemical agents, amongst of these, the black, Noir 310, is quite indestructible.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PREFACE. Page
PLAIN SEWING Stitches Seams Gathering Sewing on cord and flaps 10 Button-holes 11 Sewing on buttons 12 Binding slits 13 Sewing on piping 13 Fixing whale-bones—Herring-boning 14
MENDING 15 Linen darning 16 Satin or twill darning 17 Damask darning 18 Fine-drawing 20 Patching 20
SINGLE AND CUT OPEN-WORK 23 Hem-stitching 24 Open-work patterns 27 Cutting out threads at the corners 39 Cut open-work 40 Patterns for cut open-work 42
NET AND DAMASK STITCHES 51 Net embroidery 51 Net patterns 52 Net darning 62 Damask stitches 63
WHITE EMBROIDERY 76 Stitches 77 Different kinds of scallops 79 Eyelet holes 80 Six ways of making dots 81 Venetian embroidery 82 Patterns and alphabets 83
FLAT STITCH AND GOLD EMBROIDERY 105 Encroaching satin stitch 105 Oriental stitch 106 Plaited stitch and mosaic stitch 108 Persian stitch 109 Straight and encroaching flat stitch patterns 110 Chinese embroidery 111 Raised embroidery 113 Turkish embroidery 113 Implements and materials for gold embroidery 115 Stitches used in gold embroidery 119 Patterns for gold embroidery 120
TAPESTRY AND LINEN EMBROIDERY 127 Marking out the embroidery ground 128 Tapestry stitches 129 Tapestry patterns 138 Stitches for linen embroidery 143 Patterns for linen embroidery 152
KNITTING 171 Position of the hands 172 Casting on 173 Stitches 178 Stocking knitting 182 Scalloped edge 183 Heels 184 Toes 189 Mending knitting 190 Piqué patterns 195 Patent knitting 201 Turkish stitch 201 Knitting patterns 203
CROCHET WORK 221 Position of the hands 223 Stitches 223 Method for copying tapestry patterns in crochet 238 Crochet with soutache or lacet 239 Crochet square, hexagon and star 240 Tunisian crochet 241 Hairpin crochet 243 Patterns for hairpin crochet 245 Crochet lace patterns 249 Crochet counterpanes 284 Crochet stars 300 Crochet collar 304 Crochet chair-back 316
TATTING 325 Position of the hands 326 Knots 328 Patterns of scallops and medallions 331
MACRAMÉ 343 Materials and implements 344 Formation of the knots 345 Macramé shuttles 360 Macramé patterns 361
NETTING 395 Implements and materials 395 Stitches 397 Patterns produced in netting 400 Mounting the netting on the frame 410 Stars and wheels 414 Grounds and lace 423 Embroidery on netting 434 Netted insertion 438
IRISH LACE 439 Materials 439 Tacking down the braids 440 Bars of different kinds 442 Insertion stitches 445 Lace stitches 450 Needle-made picots 467 Irish lace patterns 468
LACES OF DIFFERENT KINDS 473 Pillow lace and the implements for its manufacture 474 «Stitches» or passings 481 Patterns or grounds 481 Armenian lace 503 Laces in knotted stitch 505 Reticella-lace 508 Venetian-lace 510 Brussels-lace 515
MISCELLANEOUS FANCY WORK 517 Knotted cord 518 Balls for trimmings 519 Tambour work 521 Smyrna stitch 523 Malta stitch 525 Triangular Turkish stitch 526 Turkish embroidery 530 Appliqué-work 531 Morocco embroidery 535
Spanish embroidery 536 Different kinds of linen stitches 540 Pattern for linen stitches 541 Pattern for Roumanian stitch 544 Pattern for Piqué embroidery 546 Embroideries with Soutache 546 Chinese subject 551
PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS 553 Tracing and drawing the designs 553 The preparation of the stuffs and the subdivision of the patterns 557 To transpose and repeat patterns by means of looking glasses 559 To alter the proportions of a pattern by dividing the ground into squares 560 To prepare the paste for appliqué work 564 To stiffen new needlework 565 To wash ordinary lace 565 To wash real lace 566 To stiffen lace 566 To iron lace 566 To pin out lace 567 To wash coloured cottons and work done with the same 568 Materials 569
By the same Author
ALBUM DE BRODERIES
AU POINT DE CROIX.
(Album of cross-stitch embroidery)
BY TH. DE DILLMONT
32 Plates with 278 Designs, and a complete treatise on the embroidery itself.
Quarto; artistic boards, price 1_s._ 6_d._
_To be had by applying to the Author and Editor TH. DE DILLMONT, DORNACH, Alsace, and at all the leading booksellers and Embroidery shops._
PRINTED BY BRUSTLEIN & Co.,
MULHOUSE (Alsace)