Chapter 29

In fig. 789, the wheel is worked with the 4 middle pairs of bobbins. Each pair has first to be twisted once = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = lay aside the 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 2nd and 4th pair = lay both pairs aside = 1 linen passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay aside the 4th pair = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up the pin at the next point and between the 2nd and 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = lay aside the 3rd pair = 1 linen passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = lay both pairs aside = 1 linen passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 linen passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = the last passing completes the wheel, such as it is represented in fig. 790.

Twist the pairs of bobbins again as you did before beginning the wheel and then proceed with the plain ground.

ROSE GROUND (figs. 791 and 792).—After preparing the pattern, as in fig. 791, put up pins at _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_, _e_, _f_, _g_, _h_ and _i_ and hang on 2 pairs of bobbins to the first pin, and one pair to each of the other 8 = 1 half passing with the 1st and 2nd pair = twist each pair once = take out the pin at point _a_ and put it up again at the same point between the pairs = enclose the pin with 1 half passing = twist the pair once = lay the 1st pair aside = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = twist the pair again = take out the pin at _b_, put it in again at the same point between the pair = enclose the pin = twist the pairs again = lay the 2nd pair aside = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = twist the pair again = take out the needle at _c_ and put it in again at the same point between the pairs = enclose the pin = twist the pair again = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = twist the pair again = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin = twist the pair again = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the pair again = put up a pin at point 2 = enclose the pin = work point 2 and 1 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = 1 half passing with the 4th and 5th pair = twist the pairs again = take out the pin at _d_ and put it in again at the same point between the pair = work point _e_ exactly like point _d_ with the 5th and 6th pair = work point 4 like point 3 with the 4th and 5th pair = work points 5, 6 and 7 in a slanting direction from right to left = carry out point 8 with the 5th and 4th pair = lay both pairs aside = work point 9 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = work point _f_ like point _e_ with the 6th and 7th pair = work point _g_ like point _f_ with the 7th and 8th pair = then work points 10 to 15 with the 6th and 7th pair = point 16 with the 7th and 6th pair = point 17 with the 5th and 4th pair = point 18 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = point _h_ like point _g_ with the 8th and 9th pair = point _i_ with the 9th and 10th pair = points 19 to 26 with the 9th and 10th pair = point 27 with the 9th and 8th pair = point 28 with the 7th and 6th pair = point 29 with the 5th and 4th pair = point 30 with the 3rd and 2nd pair. Proceed in this manner until the whole ground be finished.

DOUBLE OR ORNAMENTAL GROUND (figs. 793 and 794).—This ground should be worked in a comparatively fine material; we should recommend Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 30 to 100. Put up pins at points _a_ and _g_ in the pattern and hang on a pair of bobbins = put up pins likewise at _b_, _c_, _d_, _e_ and _f_ and hang on a pair of bobbins to each = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = take out the pin at point _b_ and put it in again between the pair at the same place = enclose the pin with a half passing = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin = 1 half passing with the 4th and 5th pair = take out the pin at point _l_ and put it in again between the pairs at the same place = enclose the needle = 1 half passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = put up a pin at point 2 = enclose the needle = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose the needle = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = 1 half passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a needle at point 4 = enclose the needle = work point _d_ like point _c_ with the 6th and 7th pair = 1 half passing with the 6th and 5th pair = put up a pin at point 5 = enclose the pin = work over point _e_ like point _d_ with the 7th and 8th pair = 1 half passing with the 7th and 6th pair = put up a pin at point 6 = enclose the pin = 1 half passing with the 6th and 5th pair = put up a pin at point 7 = enclose the pin = 1 half passing with the 6th and 7th pair = lay the 2 pairs aside = 1 half passing with the 5th and 4th pair, by which the threads are made to cross each other in the square = work over point _f_ as over point _e_ with the 10th and 11th pair = work over points 17 to 19 as over points 5 to 7 = when the square is finished 1 half passing with the 10th and 11th pair = half passings between all the squares.

TULLE GROUND (fig. 795).—Prepare your pattern for the ground represented here on a magnified scale, by pricking holes at regular distances so as to form diagonal lines intersecting each other, as shown in the engraving, and set more or less closely together, according to the thickness of the thread you use.

1 half passing = put up the pin at the next point, twist both pairs twice, but without enclosing the pin, and pass the inner left thread over the inner left one = twist the two pairs again = cross as before and so on.

VALENCIENNES GROUND (fig. 796).—The Valenciennes ground is formed of little plaits for which 2 pairs of bobbins are used. These plaits are often used in other kinds of lace as well, as may be seen for instance in figs. 801, 802 and 806 which are not Valenciennes patterns.

According to the size of the squares the plaits are made with either 4, 6 or 8 half passings, 2 pairs of bobbins being invariably used. The plaits are joined by a half passing, made with the last pair of the left plait and the first of the right = stick the pin into the hole = enclose the pin by a half passing and work the next plait on the left with the two left pairs and the next plait on the right with the two right pairs.

BRUSSELS GROUND (fig. 797).—For the sake of greater clearness, this ground too has been worked and reproduced here on a magnified scale.

It is worked in diagonal lines, as follows: 1 double passing with 2 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at the next point = enclose the pin with a double passing, twist both pairs each time once and so on. This ground, when it is worked by the hand in very fine thread, takes a long time to do and is therefore often made by machinery.

ETERNELLE WITH TWO ROWS OF HOLES (fig. 798).—The so-called «eternelle» laces have no definite pattern; they can be made of any width, in the form of insertions or edgings.

For a single row of holes, you want 6 pairs of bobbins; for two rows, 7; for three, 9, adding two pairs of bobbins for every additional row of holes. The upper part of fig. 798 shows how the points are distributed; here 7 pairs of bobbins are used.

Put up a pin at the topmost point = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double passing = take out the pin and put it in again between the two pairs = tighten the pair = hang on 1 pair of bobbins again on the left = 1 double passing with the 1st pair of the bobbins you hung on first and with the new pair = push the double passing close to the pin = twist the first pair once and then lay it aside = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair that enclose the pin = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins in the middle = 1 double passing with both pairs = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 double passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the 1st pair once and lay it aside = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair that enclose the pin = put up 1 pin at the 3rd lower point, hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double passing with these bobbins = lay the 7th pair aside = * 1 double passing with the 6th and 5th pair = lay the 6th pair aside = 1 double passing with the 5th and 4th pair = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 double passing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 double passing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up a pin at the next point = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the 1st pair once = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair, to enclose the pin = lay the 3 first pairs aside = 1 double stitch with the 4th and 5th pair = lay the last two pairs aside = 1 double passing with the 6th and 7th pair = put up a pin at the next point = enclose the pin with the last pairs = repeat from *.

LACE WITH TORCHON GROUND AND EDGE IN NET GROUND (fig. 799).—Worked with 10 pairs of bobbins.

Put up a pin at * = make net passings, fig. 786, to point 1 = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin with the two last pairs on the right = net passings to point 2 = put up a pin at point 2 = lay one pair of bobbins aside = net passings to point 3 = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose the pin = net passings to point 4 = put up a pin at point 4 = lay one pair of bobbins aside = net passings to point 5 = put up a pin at point 5 = net passings, back to point 6 = put up a pin at point 6 = take up the bobbins on the left again = 1 half passing with the 1st pair on the left = put up a pin at point 7 = work the torchon ground, at the top of the lace, as in fig. 788, with the 2nd and 3rd pair = 1 half passing with the 3rd and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 8 = twist the 1st and 2nd pair = 1 double passing with the 1st and 2nd pair = put up a pin at point 9 = 1 double passing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = lay the 2nd pair aside = make hole or torchon stitch, fig. 788, with the 3rd and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 10 = work on to point 11 in hole ground = put up a pin at point 11 = cross the 1st and 2nd pair on the left = put up a pin at point 12 = enclose the pin = lay 5 pairs of bobbins aside on the left = take up 5 pairs on the right = put up a pin at point 13 = net passings with the 5 pairs on the right = take up, in addition, the 6th pair on the left = hole ground with the 5th and 6th pair = put up a pin at point 14 = net passings to point 15 with 5 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 15 = net passings with 6 pairs of bobbins = take up a 7th pair of bobbins in addition = hole ground with the 6th and 7th pair = put up a pin at point 16 = net passings with 6 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 17 = net passings with 6 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 18 and then repeat from the first point * on the left.

PILLOW LACE (figs. 800, 801, 802).—We here give as an example the same pattern of lace worked in two thicknesses of thread; fig. 801 in Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25[A], fig. 802 in Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 30[A], which is of course much thicker. As this pattern is especially suitable for trimming household articles, made of unbleached linen, such for instance as table-covers, curtains and hangings of all kinds, we prefer it made in the thicker thread; even then it looks very well as a trimming for articles of dress.

It is worked with 40 pairs of bobbins = hang them on one after the other in a row = put up a pin at point 1 = twisted linen passing = work all the pairs to point 2 with linen passing = put up the pin at the last pair = go back through 3 pairs with linen passing = twist 2 pairs once = go back with linen passing through all the pairs to point 3 = twist each pair separately = at point 4 twist the 2 pairs and put up the pin = twist the last pair twice and so on and coming back to point 5 = put up the pin = come back again to point 6 = return to point 7 = put up the pins at the two points.

Divide the 30 other pairs into twos = put up a pin between every set of two pairs = linen passing. The ground is all worked alike: twist the pairs twice = linen passing = put up the pins = linen passing to points 6 and 7 = twist the threads in taking them through = make a plait, fig. 796, for the scallop point 8 = put up a pin at the point marked for the picot = pass the thread of the outside bobbin from right to left, round the pin, to form the picot = continue the plait to the next picot = put up a pin = form the picot = continue the plait to point 9 = connect the plait with the bobbins of points 9 and 7 = make 4 linen passings with 3 pairs = continue the plait = carry the last pair to point 10 = twist the threads = make 1 linen passing = put up a pin and enclose it = go on in this manner to point 12 = make the wheel, as in figs. 789 and 790, with 6 pairs of bobbins, hanging on 4 new pairs at point 12 = work with twisted linen passing = twist the 4 pairs once and cross with linen passing = take the last pair out from the middle to point 13, join it to the first pair of the scallop = make all the wheels before continuing the ground = then go back from point 13 to 14 = cross the pairs again = at point 12 twist 4 pairs = 2 twisted linen passings right and left with the bobbins of points 14 and 15 = 1 twisted linen passing = put up the pins and work all the spiders alike.

PILLOW LACE INSERTION (figs. 803 and 804).—Hang on 12 pairs of bobbins.

Divide the bobbins and put 2 pairs at point 1 = put up a pin = twist once = 2 linen passings = from point 2 to point 8 = 5 twisted linen passings = add one pair of bobbins = put up a pin = add one pair of bobbins = put up a pin = lay one pair of bobbins aside = twist = 2 linen passings = 5 twisted linen passings to point 10 = 2 linen passings = twist the 2 last pairs = go back with linen passing through 2 pairs = join together with the two pairs and the first pair by means of a twisted stitch = put up the pin = lozenge stitch (for lozenge stitch in which the lozenges or close leaves are made, you take 4 or 6 threads; in the execution it resembles the darning stitch represented in figs. 646 and 647) to point 11 = twist at point 12 = take 2 pairs from point 10 = plait to point 13 = twist with the bobbins of point 1 = double passing = plait on the right, twist on the left = put up the pin = tie up as described.

Take the second pair at points 13 and 15 = put up the pin = 2 twisted double passings on the right = 2 linen passings = twist the 2 latter = put up the pin = at point 16 lay one pair of bobbins aside = with simple passing go back through 2 linen passings = join the latter and the former with linen passing = put up the pin at point 17 = lozenge stitch with the bobbins of points 15 and 17 to point 18 = connect the same at point 11 = carry on the lozenge stitch to points 19, 20 and 21 = put up a pin at each number and enclose with a linen passing = with the first pair of bobbins of point 21, 2 linen passings to the left and 2 twisted linen passings, that is to say, crossing the threads = put up the pin at point 22.

Twist the threads from point 16 to point 23 = make a plait from point 15 to point 23 = then join the two parts together by half passings = put up a pin = twist the threads and make plaits to point 24 = join the threads as at point 23.

On the left and with the first pair of point 19, 2 linen passings = with the 2 latter 1 twisted passing = put up the pin at point 25 = returning, 2 linen passings to point 26 = 2 linen passings to the left = with the 2 latter pairs 2 double passings and put up the pin.

PILLOW LACE (figs. 805 and 806).—Hang on 14 pairs of bobbins.

These are divided into 3 groups = 3 pairs at point 1 = put up a pin = twisted linen passing = twist both pairs once = put up the pin at point 3 = add on 5 pairs at point 2 = put up the pin = go back through 3 pairs = twist the 2 last pairs = linen passing = put up the pin at point 3 = twist both pairs = linen passings, as seen in the illustration, to the right and left as far as point 11 = at point 13 intervert 6 pairs by a twisted linen passing = make a plait at point 14 = put up a pin in the middle of the same = pass through 2 pairs of bobbins with twisted linen passing = put 1 pair of bobbins aside at point 22 = put up a pin at the 2 first pairs at point 15 = work the leaf in lozenge stitch = put up a pin at point 16 near the first pair = twist both pairs once = linen passing = put up the pin at point 17 = go back in the same manner = work on in the same way to point 21 = put up the pin at point 22 = twisted linen passing to point 11 = tie up the first pair of the scallop with the bobbins of point 11 = bring the last pair back and work as at point 1 = then repeat and proceed in the same way to point 27 = twist the 2 pairs up to point 26 = put up the pin = make one lozenge stitch and join the plait, stitch to point 28 = continue the lozenge stitch to point 29 = join the bobbins of point 29 to those of point 21 by a plait = put up the pin = linen passing = twist the two last pairs once = put up the pin = linen passing = put up the pin at point 31 = twist both pairs once = 2 linen passings = put up the pin at point 82 = 2 linen passings = tie up the bobbins of point 33 with those of point 29 = plait stitch = put up the pin = join to point 34 with lozenge stitch = with the bobbins at point 28 make lozenge stitch to point 27 = put up a pin = twist 3 pairs once = make 2 linen passings = join with linen passing = continue the scallop according to the preceding description, from point 27 to point 35.

At point 34 make a leaf in lozenge stitch = put up the pin = continue from point 33 to point 36 with twisted linen passings = carry the first pair of bobbins of the lozenge to point 35 by means of 2 twisted linen passings = put up a pin in the middle of the 2 pairs = make a plait to point 37 = cross the pairs again as at point 13, in the beginning.

PILLOW LACE (figs. 807 and 808).—Worked with 30 pairs of bobbins.—These are divided: 14 pairs at point 1 = put up a pin on the left and right = with the last pairs make plaits to point 12 = add 2 pairs = make a double passing as for a plait = put up a pin in the middle of the pairs = plait with 2 pairs of bobbins to point 3 = add 2 pairs of bobbins = make a double passing as for the plait = put up a pin in the middle of the pairs = then go on in the same manner to point 4 = add 4 pairs of bobbins = put up the pin = at point 5, add 2 pairs of bobbins = make a plait = put up a pin and join to point 4 by a double passing.

At point 1, lay the two last pairs to the right = put up a pin = make a plait to point 6 = add 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double passing = put up a pin = make a plait to point 7 with a pairs of bobbins = add 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double passing = put up the pin = make a plait to point 8 = add 4 pairs of bobbins = 5 linen passings = put up a pin at the last passing = at point 9 add 2 pairs of bobbins = make a plait = put up a pin = join to point 8 with linen passing = make plaits from point 9 to point 10 = put up a pin = leave the pairs hanging = 5 linen passings with the bobbins of point 10 = put up the pin at point 11 = go back to point 10 with 5 passings = put up the pin = make a plait and tie up the bobbins at point 6 = leave these bobbins hanging down.

With the two first pairs at point 11, make a plait to point 12 = 1 linen passing at point 7 and join to point 12 by a plait = plait stitch = put up a pin = then plait stitch to point 13 and make the same connection as at points 12 and 7 = continue to plait to point 14 = put up the pin at the first pair = 7 linen passings = leave these bobbins hanging down = tie up the plait of point 5 with the 1st pair of point 4 = make a plait on the left = put up a pin at point 15 = make 5 linen passings on the right and put up the pin at point 16 = make a plait to point 17 = make the same connection as at point 7 and 12 = the same connection also at point 18 = make a plait to point 19 = put up the pin = make a plaited lozenge with one pair = leave 2 pairs hanging at point 20, left and right = continue to point 21 = leave 2 pairs hanging, left and right = make a plait to point 22 = begin again at point 17 and make a leaf in lozenge stitch to point 23 = make a second leaf from point 16 to point 23 = join the leaves at point 23 = make a plait with the first pair of point 16 to point 24 = put up a pin = enclose it with a double passing and make a plait = tie up the bobbins at point 15 = continue the edge to point 26 = make a leaf in lozenge stitch from point 32 to point 26 = tie up the bobbins at point 26 and make linen passings with the united bobbins to point 27 = with the bobbins of point 18 and point 20, therefore with 4 pairs, make a square in lozenge stitch = join the 3 leaves at point 23 = from point 23 to point 28 make a plait with the two first pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 28 = make a plait with picots to point 29 = lozenge stitch from point 32 to point 22 and point 33 = join to point 30 by a plait = plait to point 22 = work from point 34 to 35 in the same way as from point 1 to point 33 = at point 22 and point 35 the pairs cross each other.

PILLOW LACE (figs. 809 and 810).—Hang on 28 pairs of bobbins. Begin at point 1 with a plait, fig. 790 = put up a pin = * hang on 5 pairs at point 2 and put up a pin at the last pair = with the last pair make a plait to point 3 * = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing = hang on 3 pairs of bobbins = 1 linen passing = 3 linen passings = put up a pin = 1 leaf in lozenge stitch to point 4 = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 2 plait stitches = put up a pin = make a leaf to point 5 = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 plait stitch = put up a pin = repeat in the reverse order to point 3.

Put up a pin at point 9 = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing = hang on a pair of bobbins = make a plait to point 11 = put up a pin = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins at point 12 = make a plait and tie the threads together with those of point 11 = on the left with 2 pairs, on the right with 3 pairs to point 13 for the edge = put up 2 pins and continue the edge with linen passings to point 14.

Return to point 15 and make a plait = put up a pin = divide the bobbins and put one pair on the right, the other on the left = take the bobbins at point 5 and 7 and make plaits to points 16 and 17 = make linen passings with the two pairs to point 18 = put up a pin and make a plait to point 21.