Chapter 27

INSERTION WITH HALF BARS (fig. 719).—Fasten on the thread in one of the corners of the braid and conduct it by means of overcasting stitches to the middle of the insertion, draw it through the edge of the braid on the right and make button-hole stitches over it, to the middle of the space to be filled, then carry the thread to the left, draw it through the left edge, a little higher up than on the other side, and make the same number of stitches over it as over the first. You can vary this insertion with very good result by making more stitches on one side than on the other, but it should never be more than 10 or 12 stitches wide.

PLAIN NET STITCH. FIRST LACE STITCH (fig. 720).—Make rows of button-hole stitches to and fro, loose enough to form loops into which the stitches of each subsequent row are set. You must be careful to make the same number of stitches in all the spaces that are of the same size, and also, when you begin a row with a whole stitch, to begin the return row with a half, and so on, in regular rotation.

The number of stitches should vary with the width of the pattern and the decreasing and increasing should always be done at the edge.

The loops must be as many threads of the braid edge long, as they are wide.

DOUBLE NET STITCH. SECOND LACE STITCH (fig. 721).—You leave the same distance between the stitches here as in the preceding figure, but in each of the loops of the first row, you must make two button-hole stitches close together. It is as well to round the loop a little less than is usually done in net stitch.

THIRD LACE STITCH (fig. 722).—Here, you make three button-hole stitches close together, joined to the next three by a loop of thread, just long enough to hold the three button-hole stitches of the subsequent row.

FOURTH LACE STITCH (fig. 723).—Working from left to right, make two button-hole stitches rather near together, and leave twice as long a loop between them and the next two stitches as between the two first.

In the next row, which is worked from right to left, make one stitch in the loop between the two stitches that are close together and three or four in the long loop.

FIFTH LACE STITCH (fig. 724).—As in fig. 723, you begin this stitch from left to right, but making three stitches very close together with an intermediate loop as long as the three stitches in one.

In the second row, you make one button-hole stitch in each of the loops between the three stitches and six or eight in the long intermediate loop.

SIXTH LACE STITCH (fig. 725).—Over wide loops, made from left to right in the first row, make in the second, enough button-hole stitches entirely to cover the thread.

In the third row of stitches, put the needle into the small loop between two sets of button-hole stitches, so that the close stitches shall form vertical lines across the surface they cover.

This stitch admits of every sort of modification, such as, for instance, making the third row of stitches on the button-hole stitches, in the middle of the ones on the small loop; or making one row of close stitches first, and then three open rows; in the former case you should always make an uneven number of button-hole stitches, so that you have the same number on both sides of the needle, which you must put in between the two threads that form the middle button-hole stitch.

SEVENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 726).—Begin, working from right to left, by making one row of pairs of button-hole stitches, a very short distance apart; in the second row you make one button-hole stitch between each of these pairs, and in the third row, two button-hole stitches in every long loop. Here, the stitches must not be crowded together but have a small gap left between them.

EIGHTH LACE STITCH (fig. 727).—This stitch is generally known as the “pea-stitch” on account of the holes occasioned by the different distribution of the stitches.

The first row consists of stitches, set rather closely together, and all the same distance apart. In the second row, you make one button-hole stitch in the last stitch of the first row, then, missing two loops and three button-hole stitches, you make two stitches in the next loops and so on. In the third row, you make three stitches in the big loop, and one in the loop between the stitches of the second row.

NINTH, AND TENTH LACE STITCH (figs. 728 and 729).—Both, the small and the big pointed groups of stitches, begin with a row of close button-hole stitches.

Fig. 728 requires three rows; in the second you miss two stitches and make two in the next loops; in the third, only one stitch is introduced between the two loops of the lower row.

Fig. 729 requires five rows. The stitches of the first must be set as closely together as possible; in the second row you make four stitches and miss two of the first row, in the third row you make three stitches, in the fourth, two and in the fifth, one only. The long loops of the last row must not be too slack so that the first stitches of the next scallop may quite cover them.

ELEVENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 730).—This stitch is not really more difficult to work than those we have been describing, but requires rather more attention to learn.

The first row consists of plain net stitches; in the second, you have three button-hole stitches in the middle net stitch; in the third, three button-hole stitches in the whole loops on either side of the three button-hole stitches of the second row, and one stitch in the half loops that precede and immediately follow them; the fourth row is similar to the second.

In the fifth row the close stitches are changed. The three button-hole stitches are made in the third whole loop, before and after those of the fourth row, so that between two groups of three stitches you have six single button-hole stitches and seven loops.

TWELFTH LACE STITCH (fig. 731).—Fasten on your thread, take it by overcasting stitches over the braid edge, half a c/m. from the corner, and make three button-hole stitches downwards, quite close together. The next loops, over four or six threads of the braid, must be left long enough to be on a level with the first stitch reaching downwards from the edge.

In the second row, you cover the long loops with three button-hole stitches and draw the intervening thread quite tight.

The third row is like the first, with the difference, that you put the needle in between the two threads of the button-hole stitch, instead of through the loops.

THIRTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 732).—The stitch here represented, as well as the two next ones are looped from left to right and then again from right to left.

As it is more unusual to make the loops from left to right than the reverse way, the proper position of the needle and the course of the thread are shown in the illustrations.

Fig. 732 requires, in the first place, two button-hole stitches very close together in the edge of the braid, then a third stitch covering the two first stitches and set quite close to them; the connecting thread between these stitches must be tightly stretched so as to lie almost vertically, that the stitches may form straight lines.

FOURTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 733).—This begins, likewise, with two button-hole stitches, above which you make two button-hole stitches instead of one, as in fig. 732, producing an open ground with vertical bars.

FIFTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 734).—This resembles the two foregoing stitches and consists of three button-hole stitches, made over the edge of the braid or the intermediate bars, and joined together afterwards under one transverse stitch.

SIXTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 735).—You begin this by a row of net stitches worked from right to left, or as the engraving shows, by a row of stitches called «seed stitches».

The second row, worked from left to right, consists of short bars, set slanting and shaped like a seed, and made the same way as the picot in fig. 699. The first stitch is carried through the loop of the row below, the second over both threads and far enough from the loop to leave room for three other stitches. The first of the four button-hole stitches of the next group must be set quite close to the last.

SEVENTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 786).—Here we have the same pattern as the preceding one without the row of net stitches; the engraving shows us at the same time, the proper direction of the needle and thread for the row that is worked from right to left.

EIGHTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 737).—This is the first of a series of lace stitches, often met with in old Venetian lace, and which can therefore with perfect right be called, Venetian stitches.

Owing to the manner and order in which the rows of stitches are connected and placed above one another, they form less transparent grounds than those we have hitherto described.

In these grounds you begin by making the row of loops, then you throw a thread across on the same level and in coming back, pass the needle through the row of loops under the thread stretched across, and under the stitch of the previous row.

NINETEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 738).—The close stitch here represented is more common in Venetian lace than the loose stitch given in fig. 737.

TWENTIETH LACE STITCH (fig. 739).—By missing some loops of the close ground in one row and replacing them by the same number in the next, small gaps are formed, and by a regular and systematic missing and taking up of stitches, in this way, extremely pretty grounds can be produced.

TWENTY-FIRST LACE STITCH (fig. 740).—These close lace stitches, can be varied in all sorts of other ways by embroidering the needle-made grounds.

In fig. 740, you have little tufts in darning stitch, and in a less twisted material than the close stitches of the ground, worked upon the ground.

If you use Fil à dentelle D.M.C (lace thread) for the ground, you should take either Coton à repriser D.M.C (darning cotton), or better still, Coton surfin D.M.C[A] for the tufts. The ground can also be ornamented with little rings of button-holing, stars or flowerets in bullion or some other fancy stitch.

TWENTY-SECOND LACE STITCH (fig. 741).—For the above three stitches and the three that follow, the work has to be held, so that the finished rows are turned to the worker and the needle points to the outside of the hand. In the first row, from left to right, take hold of the thread near the end that is in the braid, lay it from left to right under the point of the needle, and bring it back again to the right, over the same. Whilst twisting the thread in this way round the needle with the right hand, you must hold the eye of the needle under the left thumb.

When you have laid the thread round draw the needle through the loops; the bars must stand straight and be of uniform length. Were they to slant or be at all uneven, we should consider the work badly done.

In the row that is worked from left to right, the thread must be twisted round the needle, likewise from left to right.

TWENTY-THIRD LACE STITCH (fig. 742).—This is begun with the same stitches as fig. 741, worked from right to left. You then take up every loop that comes between the vertical bars with an overcasting stitch, drawing the thread quite out, and tightening it as much as is necessary after each stitch. You cannot take several stitches on the needle at the same time and draw out the thread for them all at once, as this pulls the bars out of their place.

TWENTY-FOURTH LACE STITCH (fig. 743).—This is often called the Sorrento stitch.

Every group of three bars of stitches is separated from the next by a long loop, round which the thread is twisted in its backward course. In each of the succeeding rows you place the first bar between the first and second of the preceding row, and the third one in the long loop, so that the pattern advances, as it were in steps.

TWENTY-FIFTH AND TWENTY-SIXTH LACE STITCHES (figs. 744 and 745).—These two figures show how the relative position of the groups of bars may be varied.

Both consist of the same stitches as those described in fig. 741. The thread that connects the groups should be tightly stretched, so that the rows may form straight horizontal lines.

TWENTY-SEVENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 746).—Begin by making two rows of net stitches, fig. 720, then two of close ones, fig. 738, and one row like those of fig. 741.

If you want to lengthen the bars, twist the thread once or twice more round the needle. You can also make one row of bars surmounted by wheels, as shown in fig. 765, then one more row of bars and continue with close stitches.

TWENTY-EIGHTH LACE STITCH (fig. 747).—Between every group of three bars, set close together, leave a space of a corresponding width; then bring the thread back over the bars, as in figs. 737, 738 and 739, without going through the loops. In the second row, you make three bars in the empty space, two over the three bars of the first row and again three in the next empty space. The third row is like the first.

TWENTY-NINTH LACE STITCH (fig. 748).—This stitch, known as Greek net stitch, can be used instead of button-hole bars for filling in large surfaces.

Make bars from left to right, a little distance apart as in fig. 741, leaving the loops between rather slack, so that when they have been twice overcast by the returning thread, they may still be slightly rounded. In the next row, you make the bar in the middle of the loop and lift it up sufficiently with the needle, for the threads to form a hexagon like a net mesh.

THIRTIETH LACE STITCH (fig. 749). After a row of pairs of button-hole stitches set closely together, with long loops between, as long as the space between the pairs, throw the thread across in a line with the extremities of the loops, fasten it to the edge of the braid and make pairs of button-hole stitches, as in the first row above it.

The loops must be perfectly regular, to facilitate which, guide lines may be traced across the pattern, and pins stuck in as shown in the figure, round which to carry the thread.

THIRTY-FIRST LACE STITCH (fig. 750).—At first sight this stitch looks very much like the preceding one, but it differs entirely from it in the way in which the threads are knotted. You pass the needle under the loop and the laid thread, then stick in the pin at the right distance for making the long loop, bring the thread round behind the pin, make a loop round the point of the needle, as shows in the engraving, and pull up the knot.

THIRTY-SECOND LACE STITCH (fig. 751).—To introduce a greater variety into lace stitches, netting can also be imitated with the needle. You begin with a loop in the corner of a square and work in diagonal lines. The loops are secured by means of the same stitch shown in fig. 750, and the regularity of the loops ensured, as it is there, by making them round a pin, stuck in at the proper distance. The squares or meshes must be made with the greatest accuracy; that being the case, most of the stitches described in the preceding chapter can be worked upon them, and the smallest spaces can be filled with delicate embroidery.

THIRTY-THIRD LACE STITCH (fig. 752).—This stitch is frequently met with in the oldest Irish lace, especially in the kind where the braids are joined together by fillings not bars. At first sight, it looks merely like a close net stitch, the ground and filling all alike, so uniform is it in appearance, but on a closer observation it will be found to be quite a different stitch from any of those we have been describing.

The first stitch is made like a plain net stitch, the second consists of a knot that ties up the loop of the first stitch. Fillings of this kind must be worked as compactly as possible, so that hardly any spaces are visible between the individual rows.

THIRTY-FOURTH LACE STITCH (fig. 753).—To fill in a surface with this stitch, known as the wheel or spider stitch, begin by laying double diagonal threads to and fro, at regular distances apart, so that they lie side by side and are not twisted. When the whole surface is covered with these double threads, throw a second similar series across them, the opposite way. The return thread, in making this second layer, must be conducted under the double threads of the first layer and over the single thread just laid, and wound two or three times round them, thereby forming little wheels or spiders, like those already described in the preceding chapter in figs. 653 and 654.

THIRTY-FIFTH LACE STITCH (fig. 754).—Begin by making a very regular netted foundation, but without knots, where the two layers of threads intersect each other.

Then, make a third layer of diagonal threads across the two first layers, so that all meet at the same points of intersection, thus forming six rays divergent from one centre. With the fourth and last thread, which forms the seventh and eighth ray, you make the wheel over seven threads, then slip the needle under it and carry it on to the point for the next wheel.

THIRTY-SIXTH LACE STITCH (fig. 755).—After covering all the surface to be embroidered, with threads stretched in horizontal lines, you cover them with loops going from one to the other and joining themselves in the subsequent row to the preceding loops.

The needle will thus have to pass underneath two threads. Then cover this needle-made canvas with cones worked in close darning stitches, as in figs. 648, 716 and 717.

THIRTY-SEVENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 756).—Here, by means of the first threads that you lay, you make an imitation of the Penelope canvas used for tapestry work, covering the surface with double threads, a very little distance apart, stretched both ways. The second layer of threads must pass alternately under and over the first, where they cross each other, and the small squares thus left between, must be encircled several times with thread and then button-holed; the thicker the foundation and the more raised and compact the button-holing upon it is, the better the effect will be. Each of these little button-holed rings should be begun and finished off independently of the others.

THIRTY-EIGHTH LACE STITCH (fig. 757).—Plain net stitch being quicker to do than any other, one is tempted to use it more frequently; but as it is a little monotonous some openwork ornament upon it is a great improvement; such for instance as small button-holed rings, worked all over the ground at regular intervals. Here again, as in the preceding figure the rings must be made independently of each other.

THIRTY-NINTH LACE STITCH (fig. 758).—Corded bars, branching out into other bars, worked in overcasting stitches, may also serve as a lace ground.

You lay five or six threads, according to the course the bars are to take; you overcast the branches up to the point of their junction with the principal line, thence you throw across the foundation threads for another branch, so that having reached a given point and coming back to finish the threads left uncovered in going, you will often have from six to eight short lengths of thread to overcast.

Overcasting stitches are always worked from right to left.

FORTIETH LACE STITCH (fig. 759).—Of all the different kinds of stitches here given, this, which terminates the series, is perhaps the one requiring the most patience. It was copied from a piece of very old and valuable Brabant lace, of which it formed the entire ground. Our figure of course represents it on a very magnified scale, the original being worked in the finest imaginable material, over a single foundation thread.

In the first row, after the three usual foundation threads are laid, you make the button-hole stitches to the number of eight or ten, up to the point from which the next branch issues, from the edge of the braid, that is, upwards.

Then you bring the needle down again and button-hole the second part of the bar, working from right to left.

A picot, like the one described in fig. 701, marks the point where the bars join. More picots of the same kind may be added at discretion.

WHEEL COMPOSED OF BUTTON-HOLE BARS (figs. 760, 761, 762, 763).—As we have already more than once given directions for making wheels, not only in the present chapter, but also in the one on netting, there is no need to enlarge on the kind of stitches to be used here, but we will explain the course of the thread in making wheels, composed of button-hole bars in a square opening.

Fig. 760 shows how the first eight loops which form the foundation of the bars are made.

In fig. 761 you will see that a thread has been passed through the loops, for the purpose of drawing them in and making a ring in addition to which, two threads added to the loop serve as padding for the button-hole stitches; the latter should always be begun on the braid side. Fig. 762 represents the bar begun in fig. 761 completed, and the passage of the thread to the next bar, and fig. 763 the ring button-holed after the completion of all the bars.

FILLING IN ROUND SPACES (figs. 764, 765, 766).—The stitches best adapted for filling in round spaces are those that can be drawn in and tightened to the required circumference, or those that admit of the number being reduced, regularly, in each round.

In tacking braids on to circular patterns, the inside edges, as we pointed out at the beginning of this chapter, have to be drawn in with overcasting stitches in very fine thread.