Chapter 12

2nd needle—1 chain, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 14, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

3rd needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

4th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

5th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

6th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 16, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

7th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 5, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

8th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 17, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

9th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

10th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 18, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

11th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2 together, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

12th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 19, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

13th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1, from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

14th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 18, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

15th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

16th needle—like the 8th.

17th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

18th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 16, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

19th needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, over, knit 1, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 1, over, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, purl 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, knit 1, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

20th needle—like the 4th.

21st needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 3, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, purl 1, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 3, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

22nd needle—slip 1; knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 14, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

23rd needle—slip 2 stitches over for a chain, over, knit 1 from behind, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, slip 1, knit 1, pull slipped stitch over, knit 2 together, over, knit 2, over, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 5, over, slip 2, knit 1, pull slipped stitches over, over, knit 5, over, knit 1 from behind, purl 1, knit 1 from behind, over, knit 2 together, knit 1, 1 chain.

24th needle—slip 1, knit 2, purl 1, purl 1 from behind, knit 4, purl 1 from behind, purl 15, purl 1 from behind, knit 1, purl 1 from behind, purl 13, purl 1 from behind, purl 4.

Repeat from the first needle.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

Crochet Work.

Crochet work, so called from the hook, French _croche_ or _croc_, with which it is done, is not only one of the easiest but in comparison with the cost and labour, one of the most effective kinds of fancy-work. It is also one of the most useful, as it can be applied to the domestic requirements of every-day life, to wearing apparel, house-linen and upholstery; and we are sure that the patterns contained in this chapter, which have in addition to their other merits that of novelty, will meet with a favorable reception.

Hooks, or needles, as they are generally called, made of wood, bone or tortoise-shell are used for all the heavier kinds of crochet work in thick wool or cotton, and steel ones for the finer kinds. The Tunisian crochet is done with a long straight hook, which is made all in one piece. The points should be well polished inside and not too sharp, the backs slightly curved, and the handles, whether of bone, steel or wood, so light as not to tire the hand. Those represented here, we consider the best, as regards shape. As it is most essential that the needle should be suited to the cotton in size, we subjoin a comparative table of the numbers of the D.M.C threads and cottons and of the different needles.

TABLE OF THE APPROXIMATE RELATION OF THE D.M.C THREADS AND COTTONS TO THE NUMBERS OF THE CROCHET NEEDLES.

+ Numbers of the | | | | | | | | | crochet needles | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 16 | 18 | -------------------+--------+--------+-----+------+------+-----+-----+-------| Numbers of the | | | | | | | | | cottons | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | No. | -------------------+--------+--------+-----+------+------+-----+-----+-------+ Coton pour crochet | --- | 6 | 8-10| 12-14| 16-20|24-40| --- | --- | Coton à tricoter | 6 | 8 |10-12| 14-16| 18-25|25-40| 50 | --- | Fil à pointer | 10 | 15 |20-30| --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | Cordonnet 6 fils | 1-1½ | 2-2½ | 3-4 | 10-15| 20-30|40-60|70-90|100-150| Fil d’Alsace | --- | --- | --- | --- | 30 |36-50|60-90|100-150| Fil à dentelle | --- | --- | --- | --- | 25 |30-50|60-90|100-150| -----------------------------------------------------------------------------+

EXPLANATION OF THE SIGNS *.—In crochet, as in knitting, you frequently have to repeat the same series of stitches. Such repetitions will be indicated, by the signs *, **, ***, etc., as the case may be.

CROCHET STITCHES.—In point of fact, there is only one, because all crochet work consists of loops made by means of the hook or needle, and connected together by being drawn the one through the other.

Crochet work may however, be divided into two kinds, German crochet, and Victoria or Tunisian crochet; the latter is known also under the name of _tricot-crochet._

In German crochet there are eight different kinds of stitches: (1) chain stitch, (2) single stitch, (3) plain stitch, (4) treble stitch, (5) knot stitch, (6) bullion stitch, (7) cluster or scale stitch, (8) double stitch.

The rows are worked, according to the kind of stitch, either to and fro, or all from one end. In the former case, the work has to be turned at the end of each row, and the subsequent row begun with 1, 2 or 3 chain stitches to prevent the contraction of the outside edge.

When the rows are all worked one way, the thread must be fastened on afresh each time, which is done by putting the needle into the first chain stitch of the preceding row, drawing the thread through it so as to form a loop, and making one or more chain stitches according to the height required.

At the end of each row, cut the thread and draw the end through the last loop; in this manner all crochet work is finished off. Some crochet workers make a few extra chain stitches with the ends of the thread at the beginning and end of each row, or fasten them off with a few stitches on the wrong side.

They can also, when the occasion requires, be formed into a fringe or tassels as a finish to the work.

POSITION OF THE HANDS AND EXPLANATION OF (1) CHAIN STITCH (fig. 403).—Take the thread in the left hand between the finger and thumb, hold the needle between the thumb and first finger of the right hand, letting it rest on the second finger, in the same manner in which you hold your pen, and put it into the loop, which you hold between the finger and thumb of the left hand. Take up the thread, lying on your finger, with the needle and make your first stitch as you do in knitting, tightening the loop just enough to leave an easy passage through it for the needle. The end of the thread must be held by the thumb and forefinger. The next stitches are made by taking up the thread with the needle and drawing it through the loop. The throwing of the thread round the needle by a jerk of the wrist is called an ‘over’.

(2) SINGLE STITCH (fig. 404).—Put the needle in from the right side of the work, into the uppermost loop of the preceding row, take up the thread on the needle and draw it through both loops.

(3) PLAIN STITCH (fig. 405).—Put the needle through, as in fig. 404, from the right side to the wrong, under the upper side, either of a chain, or of a stitch of the preceding row, draw the thread through it in a loop, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through both loops on the needle. By making the rows of plain stitches follow each other in different ways, a great variety of stitches can be produced, as the illustrations and written instructions here given will show.

ROSE STITCH (fig. 406).—This consists of rows of plain stitches, worked backwards and forwards. Insert the needle from the right side, under both the horizontal loops of the preceding row.

RUSSIAN STITCH (fig. 407).—This is worked like the foregoing, only that all the rows have to be begun from the same end, and the thread has to be cut off at the end of each row.

RIBBED STITCH (fig. 408).—Worked backwards and forwards, the hook being passed through the back part only of the stitches of the preceding row.

CHAIN STITCH.—Worked like fig. 408, but on one side only.

PIQUÉ STITCH.—This stitch also is only worked on one side. Put the needle in under one of the vertical threads of a stitch and complete the plain stitch. This is a stitch that looks very well on the wrong side; the bars of the loop lie quite close together, which makes it particularly suitable for unlined articles of clothing. It requires a large-sized needle to do this stitch well, especially if the material be a heavy one.

SLANTING STITCH (fig. 409).—Worked entirely on the right side. Take up the back thread of a stitch in the preceding row, take hold of the crochet thread without turning it round the needle and draw it through in a loop, and then finish the stitch like a plain stitch.

CROSSED STITCH.—The name which is given to the preceding stitch when both the threads of the stitches in the row before, are taken up together, instead of the back one only.

RUSSIAN CROSSED STITCH (fig. 410).—To work this stitch which runs in slanting lines, put the needle in between the vertical threads of the stitches and underneath the two horizontal ones.

COUNTERPANE STITCH (fig. 411).—Counterpanes can be made in a less close stitch than those just described.

To produce a soft and elastic fabric turn the thread round the needle and insert it under both the horizontal threads of a loop, take up the thread without turning it round the needle, draw it through in a loop, make an over, and draw the thread through all the three loops, that you have on the needle.

KNOTTED STITCH (fig. 412).—This stitch likewise is composed of plain stitches, which, however differ in a slight degree from those we have described hitherto.

Make an over, put the needle through the two horizontal threads of the stitch below, make another over and draw it back through the two loops and the first over, make another over, and draw the thread through the last two loops.

LOOP STITCH (fig. 413).—Worked as follows: when you have put the needle into the loop of a stitch below, carry the thread, downwards from above, round a stripe of cardboard or a flat wooden ruler, then finish the stitch in the usual way. These long loops, each about 2 c/m. in length, can also be made over the forefinger and held fast by the thumb as you work, but it is more difficult to make them regular in this way.

Each row of long stitches is followed by a row of plain stitches. The side, where the long loops lie, becomes the right side. If you wish this stitch to be very thick and handsome, wind the thread three times round the ruler, or finger, and secure it with a plain stitch; in this case, you should make one plain stitch between every two clusters. A loose, fleecy thread is generally used for this stitch, and for washing articles more especially, we recommend Coton à repriser D.M.C.

PLAIN STITCHES FOR A CHAIN (fig. 414).—Begin with two chain stitches, put the needle in between the two threads of the first chain stitch, turn the thread round the needle and draw it through in a loop, turn it round again and draw it through the two loops; then, put the needle into the left part of the stitch that was just made, turn the thread round the needle, draw it through the two loops and so on, to the end.

A chain of this kind makes a very good substitute for _mignardise_ when that can not be got of the right size and colour for the required purpose.

(4) TREBLES.—Trebles are little columns, or bars made of loops or stitches. They can be worked, like all other crochet, either to and fro, or all one way. There are different kinds of trebles; half or short trebles, trebles, double trebles, called also ‘long stitch’, and quadruple and quintuple trebles, called ‘extra long stitch’, connected trebles and crossed trebles.

HALF TREBLES (fig. 415).—Turn the cotton round the needle from behind, put the needle in between the trebles of the preceding row, or into one edge of a chain stitch; make an over, bring the needle forward again with the thread, make another over and draw the needle through all three loops.

TREBLES (figs. 416 and 417).—Begin, as for the half treble, by turning the thread round the needle, and putting it in under one edge of the stitch beneath, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it through two of the loops, take it up again, and draw it through the two remaining loops.

In fig. 417, we have trebles made in the same manner as fig. 416, only that instead of putting the needle under one edge of the stitch beneath, you put it under both, and between the trebles of the last row.

DOUBLE TREBLES OR ‘LONG STITCH’ (fig. 418).—Turn the thread twice round the needle, put it into a stitch of the work and bring the thread through in a loop, then take up the thread on the needle and bring it through two of the loops, three times in succession.

TRIPLE AND QUADRUPLE TREBLES OR ‘EXTRA LONG STITCH’ (fig. 419).—For a triple treble, twist the cotton three times round the needle, for a quadruple one, four times, then form the treble in the usual way by bringing the needle through two of the loops at a time. To make a series of trebles, of gradually increasing length, bring the needle, at every other treble, through the last three loops, so that before making a triple treble you will have to make columns, respectively, 1 treble, 1½ treble, 2 trebles and 2½ trebles long. Columns like these, of different lengths, are often required in crochet work, for leaves and scalloped edgings.

CONNECTED TREBLES (fig. 420).—Trebles, connected together, can be worked to and fro, and take the place of plain stitches. Begin with a chain, then make a treble of the required height, form as many loops as you made overs for the treble, take up the upper thread of the stitch nearest the treble, turn the thread round the needle, bring it back to the right side and draw the needle through the trebles, two at a time.

CROSSED TREBLES (figs. 421 and 422).—Trebles of this sort produce an open stitch, which is often used for the footing of lace, or for an insertion. Make a foundation of chain, or other stitches, and proceed as follows: 3 chain, miss 2 stitches of the row beneath, make 1 treble in the third stitch, 5 chain, 1 over, put the needle in between the loops of the connected trebles and finish with a treble. Then make a double over, put the needle into the next loop of the preceding row, make another over, draw the needle through the loops, make another over and join the two next loops. This leaves 3 loops on the needle. Make an over, put the needle into the third stitch of the row beneath, make an over, and bring the needle back to the right side.

Join the 5 loops on the needle together, 2 and 2, make 2 chain, 1 over, put the needle into the upper parts of the connected trebles and finish with a treble, and so on.

These trebles also can be lengthened if necessary, but in that case, the width of the crossed treble must correspond with the height. Generally speaking you make the trebles over the same number of stitches as you made overs on the needle, which should always be an even number.

TREBLES FOR A CHAIN.—A quicker way of making a wide footing for a crochet lace is to make the trebles in the following manner.