CHAPTER VIII.

_NORWAY, GERMANY, AND SWITZERLAND._

"A voice spake in their ear, And lo! all other voices far and near Died at that whisper full of meanings clear."

WHITTIER.

Eli and Sybil Jones attended the London yearly meeting of 1853, and were liberated to go to the Continent for gospel work in Norway, Germany, and France. Mary James Lecky was their companion, and was in all respects a most suitable person for this service. Unknown difficulties were before them; new races of people were to be touched through an unknown language; hard journeys were to be made by a feeble, almost invalid woman; still, they turned toward the shores of Norway, believing that He whose finger pointed the way would shield them with His hand. Once more they unquestioningly gave immediate obedience to the word of their great Captain, and they knew His ways well enough to be assured that the result would be the desired one.

Joseph Crosfield offered to go as a caretaker for the little party, and he was of great help to them. When they arrived at Liverpool from Ireland, an elderly doctor was called to see Sybil Jones. After examining her trouble carefully, he said, "You know David had it in his heart to build the Lord an house. In his case the will was taken for the work; so it must be in yours. You must stop your work and go south, or go to your home at once." If this doctor had followed his patient, he would have found her in the northern latitude of Norway. The great Physician's order conflicted with that of the doctor, and there could be no doubt which was to be followed.

On the 11th of 6th month they embarked on the steamer "Courier" for Christiansand, being joined by James Backhouse and Lindley M. Hoag, making a company of six. The passage was very rough, and all on board were brought low with sea-sickness, but the German Ocean was soon crossed, and they came into port at Christiansand, finding it light enough at midnight to read and write and to see the beautiful Norwegian scenery around them.

The western coast of Norway is everywhere indented by arms of the sea called fiords; the coasts are rough and rugged, overhung with crags of rock beaten and worn by the age-long dash of these northern waters. Into these fiords has rushed the ship of many a bold seaman, and the shores are tilled by a hardy race, carrying in their veins the civilized blood of the old Norse warrior. These descendants of Northern mythology rejoice when messengers come to tell the simple way of life and joy through the Saviour, and their boats are ready to bear strangers from one promontory across the fiord to another. They come in crowds to hear of the better way, and yet in many places they have escaped the thraldom of Thor and Odin only to bow their necks to the yoke which the priests make them bear.

"There are many flourishing towns and villages pleasantly situated on the fiords, easily accessible by boat. The scenery is grand and picturesque--lofty mountains, verdant lawns, and flowery vales, with now and then a beautiful cascade or mountain-torrent rushing and mingling its snow-white foam with the crystal waters below. Formerly the Friends' meeting was held at Stavanger Fiord, but there were numerous Friends scattered along the coast.

"_6th mo. 25, 1853._ This day the Norway yearly meeting commenced at ten o'clock. A deep solemnity came over us. A few words with life and feeling from dear Mary J. Lecky opened the way for L. M. Hoag, who testified the gospel of the grace of God to a deeply interested assembly. In the afternoon we assembled for business, which was conducted under a good influence and very orderly. The subject of addressing King Oscar on account of the suffering of some of the members by the exaction of tithes was discussed and referred to a committee. Two persons were received into membership, and two more applied. The certificates of ministers present were read, after which several lively testimonies were borne and counsel offered, and all ended well."

When the yearly meeting was finished the Friends held meetings with the prisoners and visited the different schools, holding meetings also at their hotels and once or twice in a barn. They went as far north as Bergen, where they had remarkable assemblies of people notwithstanding the fact that the priests spread the report that these Quakers were dangerous people and did not believe in God. They were refused permission to visit the prisoners; however, they sent Bibles and tracts to them, not being allowed to distribute them in person. The inhabitants of Bergen were highly displeased at the conduct of the ecclesiastics, and it seemed that many more came to hear the Friends for themselves on account of the unchristian spirit which was manifested toward them, and numbers came to their hotel to be instructed. It was very touching to their tender spirits to see an eagerness for better things so crushed out by so-called teachers. "The flock look up and are not fed." Having done what they could, they returned to Stavanger, and spent much time visiting families and holding public meetings. When they took the boat to leave this place the people wished they would send them more "good bodies" to teach them.

They travelled all the way from Stavanger to Christiansand, a distance of ninety-four miles, in an open boat, walking across the isthmuses from one fiord to another and carrying the boat over with them. From Christiansand they went by boat to Christiania, where they had a meeting with the seamen, besides other public meetings, all well attended. Then they prepared to leave Norway for Kiel, Denmark, on their way to Germany, having travelled twelve hundred miles in Norway, mostly by boat, and having held fifty meetings, besides visiting many families; in all of which work they were wonderfully helped with strength, and the Spirit of the Lord was with them.

The 16th of 7th month they left Norway, bound for Denmark. They sailed down by Jutland and entered the Cattegat. Along the shores they saw "highly-cultivated fields of grain, white for harvest, shepherds keeping their flocks beside the meandering streams, reposing beneath the shade, while the sheep were feeding in green pastures, which were interspersed with neat red-roofed cottages."

They went directly to Minden, where most of the few German Friends live, who, unfortunately, are becoming fewer and fewer. After visiting these families and attending their mid-week meeting, they rode to Oberkirchen in Hesse. "Soon after reaching our hotel," they write, "we were visited by the police, who inquired our business, telling us we could not be allowed to hold any public meetings in the place--that it would be contrary to the law to allow any dissenter from the Lutheran Church to hold a meeting. We informed them we had no such purpose, but came to visit those who had left the public worship and professed with us. They then withdrew, appearing quite ashamed of their business; but after coffee, when we were engaged in prayer, they again appeared, telling us that if we intended to have a public meeting they must request us to leave the place. We told them again our intention, and they took our names and withdrew. We asked our landlord why peaceable American citizens were molested by the police and their business inquired into, assuring him that it was the first time in all our travels in various countries that we had been remanded before the authorities--that many of their countrymen came unmolested to our country and were treated civilly. He replied that the conduct of the police had highly displeased him, and on inquiring into the cause of it he found that the priests had sent them."

From Minden, Eli and Sybil Jones went on to Pyrmont, where they attended the "two-months" meeting. They held a public meeting in the Friends' house, and some people of note came to hear them. One, a Russian noble of high birth; Dr. Menke, one of the privy council of the prince of Waldeck, who was said to be one of the most learned men in Prussia; also Frederick Fickenscher, the son of the dean of Nuremberg; besides many Jews, all of whom heard "Jesus Christ, and Him crucified," preached.

Eli Jones had some opportunities for conversation with Fickenscher, and he impressed on him the importance of our opinions in regard to war, oaths, and other subjects, and he was urged to accept the gospel in all its fulness. Dr. Menke came to express to them his satisfaction with the meeting, saying that he _had_ thought that the views of Friends were rather _fabulous_, but he was now satisfied that they were evangelical, and he hoped what he had heard would be useful to him. They revisited Minden, and had much service among Friends and others, both publicly and in private. They held a large meeting in the Minden theatre, of which Eli Jones writes: "A full attendance, several clergymen present. Some Friends seemed to doubt the propriety of holding a meeting in a building usually applied to theatrical purposes; but, to my mind, there was a fitness in the place, that we might have an opportunity to speak to a class which we could hardly reach anywhere else."

From Minden they journeyed by short stages south, stopping at Düsseldorf, where they visited the schools and charity institution; at Cologne, Bonn, Strasbourg, Basle. In Basle they held a meeting with sixty young men, students at the Basle mission-house, who were looking forward to becoming missionaries in the different parts of the world. A fellow-feeling led them to point these young men to the words of the Lord: "Without me ye can do nothing." They then took a carriage, going as far as the Lake of Geneva. It was so arranged that Sybil Jones could recline, being then far from well.

Sybil Jones writes:

"_10th mo. 8th._ This morning set off for Geneva by steamboat from Vevay. It being near the head of the lake, our starting-point was delightful, and our trip on the fair blue water interesting amid the grand mountains which encircle the lake. They rise like vast battlements above the clouds in some places. Mont Blanc, the monarch of mountains, was pointed out. We arrived at the ancient, interesting city of Geneva about four o'clock. From our room at the Hôtel du Rhône we have a fine view of the Rhone, which leaves the lake a few yards above and dashes by our windows, washing the basement story with its blue waters, hastening on to mingle with the great Mediterranean.

"_9th._ The work never seemed more weighty and watchfulness and prayer more needful. Our company attended a meeting held by Merle d'Aubigné, the author of the _History of the Reformation_. He made a report of the proceedings of the Evangelical Alliance held at Berlin, giving interesting information of the state of feeling existing between the different religious denominations on the Continent, who find themselves more in unison than formerly.

"_11th._ Held a large meeting in the Casino. The Lord was with us. Dear Christine Alsop interprets well; indeed, we lack nothing.

"_12th._ To-day several serious persons have called, with whom we have had very interesting conversations about the things which appertain to eternal life. A very agreeable person came to offer his thanks for the privilege of the meeting, adding, 'I think it will do good, for I have been examining the Epistle of Paul, and I am certain he did not mean to forbid a woman's preaching the glad tidings of a risen Saviour, but rather counselled the women not to be asking improper questions in their church-meetings nor to exercise authority or teach in the matter of church discipline; for it is plain that holy women of old _did_ prophesy (that is, preach), and that Paul did not attempt to hinder them. He also informed us that a philosophical deist was present last evening whom he had never seen at a religious meeting before, and that he fully expected that he would turn it all into ridicule, but, to his astonishment, he looked serious and said, 'I never heard anything like this; I scarcely know what to say. It was surely an interesting discourse.' So we do indeed see that God sometimes chooses 'the weak things of this world to confound the mighty.' We were informed that many came who were never seen at meetings on ordinary occasions. Attended another meeting at the 'Locale,' which was sweet and refreshing.

"_13th._ Some pious persons have called, among them a very devoted _pasteur_ with his daughter, whose name is Lalia. They called just as we were seated for reading the Scriptures, and joined us. During the silence I felt the spirit of supplication, but it seemed not to belong to me to pray vocally, and I said that if any person felt it a duty to pray I hoped that he would be faithful. Unknown to me, the _pasteur_ had just asked C. Alsop in French if there was liberty; she replied in my words. It was a precious season of prayer and praise. In the evening we attended an appointment for youth and children. It was large and solemn, and I reverently trust Christ was preached.

"_14th._ The interest of the people in our meetings still increases, and many inquirers come to see us, thanking us for the privilege and asking if there will be more meetings. Jane Bingham and sister, with Maria Ferris, arrived to-day from Montreux, not having heard of our meetings until we had left. They are Friends from England; it was pleasant to meet them. A female superintendent and teacher of young ladies called and took tea, and seemed very devoted to the cause of her Redeemer. She follows this business not for gain to herself, but for gain to others. Her pupils are occupying prominent places, adorned with wisdom and virtue.

"_15th._ Robert Fox, son, and daughter arrived to-day and took lodgings with us. Our party numbers twelve. It is pleasant to meet these dear friends while on a tour for their health. We took a short ride this morning in a carriage provided by dear M. J. L. to the country-seat of the Count de Selon, who was an ardent advocate of peace. In the grounds is an obelisk raised over his remains, with interesting inscriptions on the subject of peace. We hope his faithful labors may not be lost. From this beautiful place we had a fine view of Mont Blanc at sunset; which was magnificent. The snows of ages changed to crimson; the beautiful azure lake and the fine city of Geneva lay in loveliness before us.

"_16th._ To-day held two precious meetings at our hotel, to which a number of serious people came, and expressed themselves especially pleased with the _silence_, saying that it was needed in these times of commotion.

"_17th._ Returned by steamer to Lausanne. Took lodgings at a hotel which is on the spot where Gibbon wrote his celebrated _History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire_. Had meeting of much interest; many _pasteurs_ present. A _pasteur_ full of the spirit of peace informed us that many who had preached against war in Lausanne had suffered imprisonment. The _pasteur_ wished us to go to Lyons and preach two such sermons there, saying that they were needed. He did not understand that we could not preach except we were sent, nor give forth anything but what we receive at the time.

"Took steamer for Vevay; dined at the hotel, and in the evening held a meeting in the Casino, after which we rode to Montreux and took lodgings at a _pension_. Next day held a large meeting at the national place of worship called the 'Temple.' It was a solemn and instructive convocation. The forenoon was occupied in a pleasant walk by the lake at the foot of a mountain, on the side of which stands the village and old chapel of Montreux; on the left and before us the ancient castle of Chillon, and the Dent du Midi Mountain covered with snow. On the right lay the lovely lake, on the other side of which rises a majestic range of mountains. I became weary of walking, and we called at a mansion just on the border of the lake. The master is a young Jew, and of a very tender Christian spirit. We had delightful conversation with him on heavenly things. He had attended one of our meetings, and was much struck with our manner of worship. He said that when we began to speak (Christine and myself) he imagined we had composed the discourse and committed it to memory, but soon he perceived the interpreter made a mistake, which rather puzzled him, and another mistake convinced him that she could not have known what I was to say previously. Indeed, he thought it was spoken so rapidly it must come from the heart as it was uttered. He was much edified, and spoke of those solemn truths with great diffidence and tenderness. His name is Samuel Samelson. May Israel's gentle Shepherd lead him to the blessed knowledge of the truth as it is in Jesus and enable him to confess Him before men! Our young friend provided me with a donkey, which conveyed me to the residence of the Hustlers, who have resided here some time. They were formerly English Friends, and received us with joy. The wife is in very delicate health. We sat together in sweet heavenly silence, and the language of the Spirit through the poor instrument was encouraging and humbling. Returned on the donkey by a shorter route on the side of the mountain. My heart responded to the music of birds and the smile of Nature. After dining we took a drive to Chillon, the ancient château where Bonnivard was imprisoned on account of his political views for several years. The château stands in the lake. Within it is a range of dungeons below the surface of the water where prisoners of state and the condemned are confined. Across one of the vaults is a beam black with age where the executions took place. It is said two thousand Jews perished here by the hands of enemies. As we viewed these walls and sombre apartments we were struck by a sense of man's inhumanity to man and the rapid flight of events so momentous. How long, O Lord, ere thou takest unto thyself the great power and reignest?

"_22d._ Called on a bereaved father and mother who were mourning the death of an only child. We told them of Him who wounds that He may heal. We also visited a widow and her daughter who knew dear Stephen Grelet, and remembered his heart-searching ministry among them. Pasteur Godet was with us a short time. He is a pious, humble Christian from Neufchatel, who has left the honors of the world (he had been tutor of the king of Prussia), a man of learning and talent; which qualities seem sweetly sanctified. At two o'clock P. M. attended a youths' meeting.

"_23d._ A meeting was held at the Hustlers', which our party attended, but I was quite ill in bed, but reposing in Him who is my only source of joy.

"_24th._ Not able to proceed. Dined in the _salle_, and with a grateful heart was able to return thanks vocally, which seemed to impress the large company with a serious air. After dining, several spoke to us kindly, among whom was a baroness from Sweden, who warmly pressed us to go thither, saying there were many in Sweden who would receive us warmly, and her own house should be at our disposal for a home. Invited the family and boarders to our evening reading. Much tenderness was shown. Many have called on us and expressed their gratitude for our visit and gospel labors among them. We are sweetly united to a living seed in this land.

"_25th._ Took our departure from this highly interesting field of labor after an affectionate parting. We took the omnibus to Villeneuve and found the steamer ready. After passing the most magnificent scenery we were soon again at Lausanne. Made arrangements for a meeting next day.

"_26th._ In the morning held a meeting with the prisoners in the beautiful prison here. I think it the finest and most comfortable I have ever seen in any land. Our visit was deeply interesting, and the poor girls were nearly all in tears, and seemed truly grateful for the message of love to them. In the evening held a large and favored meeting at the Casino. Our boat was detained by the dense fog, so we were obliged to remain another day, which seemed providential, as a _pasteur_ called and told us of two Moravian schools taught by pasteurs, one of whom had expressed regret at not hearing of our meeting or not seeing us. He offered to accompany us to one of the schools. C. Alsop, our interpreter, had gone to visit an acquaintance, so Mary Millman, a sweet-tempered girl who spoke English well and who accompanied us, acted as interpreter. The kind pasteur received us cordially, and offered to assemble the girls; which was agreeable to us. I think we have seldom known a more heavenly season. The Lord poured out a rich blessing upon us. We returned with songs of praise to our hotel. Have had many calls to-day from Christian brothers and sisters, expressing their interest in our labors among them. A very zealous person called who spoke with much tenderness of J. and M. Yardly, who were instrumental in her conversion. Held a meeting in the evening which was much blest.

"_28th._ Set off early this morning to visit the Moravian school for boys, taking the same kind interpreter with us. We received a hearty welcome, and were informed that the boys had just assembled to commence Scripture history, and that if we could feel something good to say to them they would be so glad. Dear E. replied that we came for that purpose. We were soon seated in a pleasant youthful congregation. Some countenances testified that they had been with Jesus. The pasteur read a chapter; solemn silence ensued, then a gentle shower of gospel love descended and the little plants revived. I cannot doubt but there are young men in this institution who will fill important places of usefulness, perhaps ministers of the gospel who will publish the glad tidings to lands remote. Surely such men, fearing God, are much needed in this degenerate age. The pasteur offered a sweet-spirited prayer with tears of gratitude, and we came away. Reached the steamer in good time. We feel much fellowship with many dear friends in Lausanne. Arrived at Geneva, and, concluding to go on to Lyons at once, we had to sacrifice our desires to see the dear friends again."