Part 4

This is a game that is played by two persons and is as fascinating as it is old. The upper part of the board is 3/8" thick and has 24 holes bored thru it, as shown in the drawing. The lower board is 7-1/2" square and 1/4" thick, and extends 1/4" beyond the top board on all sides. The grain in the two boards should run at right angles when fastened together. The 18 pegs are 3/8" in diameter and 1" long. Each player has a set of 9 pegs, the sets being differently colored. In starting a game, each player takes his turn in putting a peg into a hole till all the pegs are put down. Then they take turns in moving the pegs. A peg may be moved from one hole to the next and only along rows parallel with the edges of the board, not along the rows that run from corners of the board to its center. That is, along rows 1, 2, 3 or 2, 5, 8, but not along rows 1, 4, 7. The object of a player in putting down pegs and in moving is to get a Mill; that is, get 3 pegs in a row parallel with the edges of the board. For example: Pegs in holes 4, 5, 6 or 2, 5, 8 makes a Mill, but not 3, 6, 9. When a player gets a Mill, he can take one of his opponent's pegs that is not in a Mill. Another aim of a player is to place his pegs so that he prevents his opponent from getting a Mill. When the pegs of one of the players have all been taken except 3, then he is allowed to jump anywhere on the board. When the pegs are all gone but two, then the game is lost. When a player can get 5 pegs into holes situated as 7, 8, 9 and 4, 6, then he has a double Mill by moving from 8 to 5 and from 5 to 8, etc., and pick one of his opponent's pegs for each move.

DISK PUZZLE

This problem consists of a base, three spindles and seven disks of different diameters. The spindles are fitted tight into holes in the base and rounded at the top so the disks will slide over freely. The seven disks are laid out on the wood with compass, and to prevent splitting the holes are all bored before the sawing is done.

The parts may receive a finish of stain and two or three coats of shellac. Polish with No. 1/2 sand-paper between each coat.

_Puzzle_--Place all disks on one spindle, decreasing in sizes upward. The object is to transfer the disks to one of the other spindles and to be in the same order. In doing this, never have more than one disk at a time removed from the spindles, and never place a larger disk on top of a smaller one.

BALL PUZZLE

At first it is not evident why this is called a ball puzzle, but, when let into the secret, most people see at once a good reason for naming it so. The wooden ball or marble is hidden from sight inside of the wood and may be shifted in position from the middle to the upper piece of the puzzle and vice versa (Fig. 21).

The problem is to slide the middle piece off of the pin that projects up from the lower piece and swing it around its pivot. This pivot is a 1-1/2" round-headed screw, fitting loosely in the upper two and fixed in the lower piece. A 1/2" hole is bored thru the middle and 1/2" deep in the upper piece to hold the 7/16" ball. This hole is bored so it touches the hole for the screw. In the middle piece, the screw can slide into it. In order to make the ball leave its position in the middle piece, the puzzle must be held upside down. The drawings show the puzzle both closed and open, and supply directions for constructing this interesting problem.

Finish with stain and two coats of shellac. This puzzle may be a source of much genuine amusement when a circle of friends come together and all want a hand at opening it, each having his advice to give how to solve this mysterious problem.

APPENDIX

KNOTS AND BRAIDS

Most of us are called upon, in the course of our daily duties, whether afloat or ashore, in camp or at home, to hitch up pack animals, do up packages, equipments and outfits, and make fastenings on sails, tents, scaffolding and play apparatus. This involves the tying of a great number of knots and in many cases life and limb depend upon the correct tying of those knots. The seamen, textile workers and civil engineers are pastmasters of the art. Our scouts, sailors and soldiers are taught knot-tying as an essential factor in their training. Would it not seem a part of wisdom, for the sake of safety and economy in time and good nature, for everybody to master these knot problems? It would, at least, be a very practical part of the training for children in the schools.

They should be taught knot-tying and its application in an intelligent and thoro manner, and have frequent practice-drill therein, till it becomes second nature to them.

When a knot is tied, it must be pulled together tight, so as to stay. Otherwise, especially if the cord is stiff, the loops will slide apart or flop out of position, and the knot will come loose. A knot derives its strength and reliability from the friction between its different parts. When tension is applied on a knot, the two parts which lie alongside of each other should move in the reverse directions and produce a maximum amount of friction, as the ropes tend to slip.

One may readily learn to tie the different knots by carefully following the accompanying drawings. Procure a slender, flexible rope, bend it into the shape shown in the drawing, and go over and under, as indicated, so that the parts will be in the correct relative positions. Begin by making the simple knots, and, later, tackle the more complex ones. Also learn their names.

NAMES OF KNOTS AND BRAIDS

1. Overhand knot--to prevent unraveling of rope, starting of a square knot; also a stop knot.

2. Figure-eight knot--used for a stop knot.

3. Boat knot--used on sails and rigging.

4. Slip knot--used to fasten rope end to a post.

5. Flemish loop--stays tight, will jam.

6. Stevedore knot--will not jam.

7. Sheet bend or weaver's knot--for joining two ends.

8. Square or reef knot--for joining two cords--very useful, is non-slipping.

9. Granny knot--most people confuse it with the square knot. It will slip.

10. Thief knot--will slip.

11. Carrick bend--used on top of gin pole or mast to hold it erect; the four ends are fastened to the ground.

12. Carrick bend--used to join two ropes.

13. Bowline--a very useful non-slipping loop.

14. Clove hitch--an effective means for fastening rope to a post or ring.

15. Timber hitch--used for pulling logs.

16. Handcuff hitch--used to convey prisoners.

17. Sheepshank--to decrease the length of a rope.

18. Bowknot--is tied like the square knot, but with ends doubled back in tying the latter half--used on neckties and ribbons.

19. Spanish bowline--used as boatswain's chair.

20. Wall knot--used by electricians as a stop on drop-cord.

21. Wall knot crowned--a neat rope-end finish, to prevent unraveling.

22. Three-strand flat braid.

23. Four-strand flat braid, begun.

24. Four-strand flat braid, continued--the right strand goes over, the left one goes under, and then is passed to the right, in front of the middle strand.

25. Six-strand flat braid, begun.

26. Six-strand flat braid, continued--note that each strand goes from one side clear to the other, before turning around and goes over and under, alternately, in crossing the other strands.

27. Chain knot--is begun like a slip knot.

28. Chain knotting, continued--each loop is pulled taut.

29. Double chain knotting--is started like the single chain knot, but the second loop is formed from the free end, and slipped thru from the same side as the first. Both ends are used, alternately, and the loops are pulled taut. It makes a beautiful cord, triangular in shape.

30. Genoese braid, begun--two cords are used, one end of each is used as a core, tho a thicker core may be used, and with the other two ends, in turn, loops are drawn around the core.

31. Genoese braid, continued--makes a handsome flat braid.

32. Watch fob--may be made of three or more strings or ribbons. Four strings are used in this case. Take two shoe strings and double them. Tie thread around them, about two inches from the loops. Hold the loops in the left hand, with the ends up. Name them A, B, C, D, as is shown in the drawing. First, bend A to the right; bend D over A, and away from you; bend C over D, and to the left; bend B over C, and toward you, and slip the end under the loop of A. Second, take string A and double it back to the left; bend B over A, and away from you; bend C over B, and to the right; bend D over C, and toward you, and slip the end under loop at A. The third step is like the first, and the fourth like the second. When finished, slip the loops thru your watch-ring, open the two loops and slip the watch fob thru them. The charm is neatly fastened to the finishing ends.

33. Banister bar--is made by tying the overhand knot over a core of any desired thickness.

34. Banister bar, continued--the process of tying this knot is as follows: Hold the left strand horizontally behind the core; reach under it at the right of the core and take the right strand, bring it forward and to the left across the front of the core, and then back at the left of the core, thru the loop formed by the left strand. Continue by repeating this process.

35. Solomon's knot--this is started like the banister bar, but, instead of tying all the knots alike, the tying is done, in turn, first with the right-hand strand, then with the left. Each strand will thus remain on the same side of the core as at the start. The strand in front of the core is used continually for tying the knot by the left and right hand, alternately, as the strand moves from side to side. It is a series of left and right overhand knots over a core.

36. Four-strand round braid--is very pretty, and well repays any difficulty in mastering it. It is not as easy to illustrate, by drawing, the process of making a round braid as a flat one; however, by carefully following the movement of each strand in the illustration, while manipulating the four strings, one will soon gain success and also much satisfaction.

First, hold the four strands in the left hand, as in the beginning of the flat braid, but, instead of taking the right strand, reach in, just in the left of the right strand, and, from behind, take the left strand, bring it forward and across in front from right to left. Second, exchange the places of the words, right and left, and repeat the above-described process.

Referring to the drawing, reach in at B, and from behind at the right, below x4, take C; bring it forward and across B, at x7. Next, hold the braid in the left hand and, with the right, reach in at D and take A from behind, and bring it forward and across C, at E, as is shown by dotted lines.

Braiding with three strands, or as many more as desired, may be done with ropes, strings of beads, rich-colored cords and ribbons, or basketry materials, for making many useful and beautiful articles, such as chains, belts, hangings, bags, portieres and wicker work for baskets, lamp shades and chairs.

TOY PATTERNS

_By_ MICHAEL C. DANK

A collection of full-size toy patterns. Toys which make a strong appeal to the child. Each pattern sheet presents a particular class of toys including Jointed Animals, Animal Rocker Toys, Wheeled Platform Toys, Lever Toys, String Toys, Freak Toys, Novelties, etc. While intended to be worked out in wood many are equally well adapted for cardboard. Toy-making at home from these patterns is a fine hobby for the boy from six to twelve years of age, and in the school is a fascinating manual training activity. These patterns are based upon the author's long experience in the teaching of toy-making in public and private schools and summer camps. They are well presented on sheets size 10-1/2 x 14 inches and are enclosed in a portfolio with an attractive design in color. _Price, 80 cents._

MANUAL TRAINING TOYS _for the_ BOYS WORKSHOP

_By_ HARRIS W. MOORE.--A popular boys' book illustrating 42 projects overflowing with "boy" interest. The drawings are full-page and show each project complete and in detail. A descriptive text accompanies giving full information as to materials needed and how to proceed with the simple tools required. _Price, $1.50._

COPING SAW WORK

_By_ BEN W. JOHNSON.--Presents drawings and suggestions for a course of work in thin wood that is full of fun for the children, and affording ample means for training in form study, construction, invention and careful work. A helpful guide for the teacher of the fourth grade. _Price, 30 cents._

KITECRAFT _and_ KITE TOURNAMENTS

_By_ CHARLES M. MILLER.--An authoritative and comprehensive treatment of kitecraft. The book deals with the construction and flying of all kinds of kites, and the making and using of kite accessories. Also aeroplanes, gliders, propellers, motors, etc. Four chapters are devoted to presenting a detailed description of kite flying tournaments. Abundantly illustrated and attractively bound. _Price, $1.75._

BIRD HOUSES BOYS CAN BUILD

_By_ ALBERT F. SIEPERT.--A book of rare interest to boys. It is written in the boy spirit and combines the charm of nature with the allurements of continuation work in wood. It illustrates hundreds of bird houses and shows working drawings of various designs, also feeders, shelters, sparrow traps, and other bird accessories. The common house nesting birds are pictured and described with information regarding houses, foods, etc., suitable for each. A pleasing and practical book for wide-awake boys. _Price, 65 cents._

_Send for Descriptive Catalog._

THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS

PEORIA, ILLINOIS

Transcriber's Notes

REMINDER: LEAD-PAINT WARNING! DO NOT USE THE GROUND-LEAD PAINT INGREDIENTS mentioned in the "Coloring the Toys" chapter. This book was published before the harmful effects of lead paint to children were known. Also, when working with enamel paint that contains a high quantity of solvents, make sure the area is as well-ventilated as possible. If still in doubt, wear a respirator mask to prevent the toxic effects of solvent inhalation. Paper masks do not block solvent fumes.

Some of the diagrams have been moved from their original positions to the sections describing their constructions.

Pages 6, 13: Retained original spelling of "thoroly."

Page 15: Changed "craftmanship" to "craftsmanship."

Page 31: Changed "Minsrels" to "Minstrels."