Part 3

This toy is made so that the wabbler can go or glide down the ladder on his elbows. The ladder is made from soft wood 3/8" to 1/2" thick, 2-1/2" wide, and 20" long. The openings are cut as shown, and nails located and driven in exactly as indicated in the drawing. The ladder is then securely fastened to the base which is made of 3/4" wood, 3-1/2" square. The wabbler is sawed out of 1/4" wood. A full-sized drawing is shown. This is all one piece without openings. Features and parts of the body are to be worked out by using paints of different colors.

FALLING TEETER-TOTTER

The stock for the upright piece and end supports is 3/8" thick; that for the two boys and teeter-totter is 1/4" thick. The upright is made 2" wide and 28" long. On the center line lay off points 1-3/8" apart. With these as centers, draw semi-circles of 1" radius alternately on both sides of center line. From each center draw lines tangent to the circles, as shown in the drawing.

Saw to these lines and curves, and finish the edges so that they are smooth. Saw out two boys and the teeter-totter board (B, Fig. 13), cutting out the center opening accurately. Slip this board onto the upright, and watch it fall from top to bottom in a see-saw motion. If it fails to travel smoothly, see where the rub is and remove the obstacle. Fasten the two pairs of cross pieces to each end of the upright so that it will stand vertically on either end.

Give it a thin coat of paint. Color the boys and fasten them with a nail thru the body of each boy, fitting loosely, and driven into the ends of the board. When the see-saw is turned up-end down, the boys will swing on the nails and keep heads up.

TUMBLING TOMMIE

This problem is rather unique in its principle of operation and offers at once material for study and investigation. Like that of a circus performer, the combinations must be exactly right or the little fellow may fall on his head. In making the man, first bore the holes thru the block and take care to make them parallel. The openings into the holes from the ends must be in the same plane and made to slide over the rounds of the ladder without friction. The tumbler may be shaped and colored to look like a man. A base may be attached to each end, but on opposite sides of the ladder, so that Tommie may tumble in both directions.

THE BUSY PUP

All parts of this article are made of 1/4" wood except the ears which should be 1/8" thick. Saw out one body, a pair each of fore legs, hind legs, ears and tail, and the push-rod and guide. The guide is made of four pieces and fastened together with glue and brads, as shown in the drawing. The two pairs of legs are fastened to the body by loose joints. Holes are bored thru one end of the push-rod and the forefeet; also thru the projecting end of the guide and hind feet. Fasten that end of the guide between the hind feet with loose joint (Fig. 14). Insert the push-rod thru the hole in the guide, which should slide easily, and fasten between the fore feet. By holding the guide in the left hand and working the push-rod back and forth, the dog should work freely and without a hitch in all the varied positions that it is possible for it to assume. With fine brad fasten the tail. Bore holes thru head and ears, and pivot them on a loose joint so that they will swing when the pup is busy scratching.

The pup may be colored white with black spots on neck, body and legs. The push-rod and guide may be finished in a dark color or black.

The stunts that this pup can perform are greater in number than one would suspect. Furthermore, they increase also in variety as the child acquires skill in manipulation.

THE DINKEY BIRD

When properly made up, this bird can bob its head and tail up and down. A swinging pendulum supplies the motive power. The parts are shown in the drawing full size, except the clamp that holds the Dinkey in upright position (Fig. 15).

The head, tail and body pieces, one with and one without the leg, are sawed from 1/4", the back (E) from 5/16", the wedge from 3/8", and the clamp from 1/2" stock. Finish all edges. Drill 1/16" holes at A and B. Put the two body pieces together so they coincide, and drive fine 1" nails thru both of them at C and D. Then separate them enough to let the back (E) into place between them. Fasten the three pieces together with five 1" brads, and clench. Fasten clamp (F) securely to the foot at H.

Color the different parts in gay tints, and let dry.

Take 4 ft. of strong twine and with small nails fasten one end to the head and the other to the tail. Pull out the nails at C and D enough to let the head and the tail slip into their places between the body pieces. Then reinsert the nails. The head and tail should swing freely, and the back (E) act as a stop in their up-and-down motion.

Put the clamp onto the edge of a table top and fix with the wedge. Pull down on the loop of the string, grasp it about 6" from the top, and there tie a simple knot. Fasten a stone or a piece of metal to the loop. Set it swinging and watch the bobbing performance according to Dinkey fashion.

PELICAN SEWING STAND

Whether or not this article may be within the toy class, one thing is certain: It is useful as well as ornamental. The pelican is made of three thicknesses. The middle piece is 3/8" and the two outside ones 1/4" thick. The middle piece has parts cut away to give room for the pin-cushion, and in the head, an opening is left to give place for scissors, which, in turn, serve as the bird's beak. The cushion is stuffed with cotton or some other suitable material, and covered with a double thickness of thin cloth, and fastened in place securely by nails piercing from one side to the other.

The platform is six-sided in shape (Fig. 16), of double 3/8" thickness, with grain at right angles in the two pieces, and has four pins extending 1-1/4" above the surface for holding spools. The pelican is fastened to the platform by placing the upper thickness against the foot, and driving 1-1/2" brads thru and up into the foot. Bore holes and drive the pins for the spools thru the upper thickness. Lastly, the bottom board of the platform, which extends 3/8" beyond the upper, is fastened by driving 3/4" brads thru the bottom piece into the upper. The pelican may be colored with white enamel and black trimmings, while the platform may be light green or blue.

Besides the places for scissors and spools, other attachments may be arranged to suit the convenience of the happy possessor.

WHIRLIGIG

This little device might also be called a child's aeroplane, for it soars up into the air over houses and trees, and makes everybody around crane his neck in wonder. The parts consist of the flyer, a spool and the handle. First, get an ordinary thread spool, bore two holes in one end and drive in two six-penny nails. Cut off the heads 3/8" from the end of the spool and file the ends round and smooth. Take a piece of strong wood (yellow pine will do) about 7" long and 3/4" square. Whittle down one end for a distance 3/8" longer than the length of the spool and so it will make a running fit.

For a flyer, get a piece of soft wood 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 8". Bore three holes at the center to fit onto the two pins on the spool and the top end of the handle. Whittle both faces down to a slant like a windmill so the blades will be less than 1/8" thick. Put the parts together. Wind about a yard of string around the spool in the proper direction, and then set the flyer spinning by pulling the string quickly off the spool. If all parts are properly balanced and adjusted, the flyer should go "way up high."

THE CART

This practical project is of heavier stock than most toys. However, dimensions and sizes of stock may be modified to suit the convenience and wishes of the maker. The box may be of 3/8" stock, the axle and tongue of 3/4", and the wheels of 1/2" or 3/4".

Heavy round-headed screws with washers under the heads, fitting thru holes bored in the wheels and screwed securely into the ends of the axle, form the bearings.

Take care to bore the holes thru the wheels and into the ends of the axle the proper size, and central and true.

The box is fastened by driving 1-1/4" nails thru the bottom into the axle. The tongue is shaped to fit on the axle, and is securely fastened by nails to the axle and wagon bottom.

A handle of a loop of brass wire may be inserted thru the tongue near the small end, and the ends bent.

The box is painted green and wheels and tongue red.

THE WAGON

The stock required for the box of the wagon is 1/4" thick, for the wheels 3/8", for the tongue 1/2", and for the axles 3/4". The axles are 5-1/2" long; the rear one is 1" wide; the front one is 7/8" wide, as shown in the drawing. The holes for the screws in the ends of the axles are bored 3/8" from the lower side. The screws are heavy, 1-1/2" round-headed, with metal washers under the heads. The holes in the wheels are bored true, and so that they will just slip over the screws.

The tongue is connected with the front axle by a piece of tin, cut from a tin can after the pattern shown on the drawing.

The cross piece between the wagon box and the front axle, called the bolster, is 1-1/8" wide, 5" long and 3/4" thick. It tapers from 5" in length at the top to 2-1/2" at the bottom, where it rests on and turns on the tin that is nailed to the top side of the axle.

Always bore holes of the proper sizes before inserting screws.

The front axle is connected to the bolster by a 2" round-headed screw on which it turns. In making the wagon box, the sides are nailed to the bottom, the ends fastened in position, and the back nailed onto the edge of the seat.

The box is painted green outside and red inside. The two wings of the tin plate are bent down to fit tight onto the sides of the tongue, and nails are driven thru the tin into the tongue. The whole running gear is painted red. The box is nailed to the bolster and to the rear axle. The seat is nailed into position, the wheels fitted on, and the front axle screwed onto the bolster. This wagon is strong and should last a long time and afford much wholesome pleasure.

FLYING GOOSE

The body, platform and wheels (Fig. 17) are of 1/4" stock. The wings are a little thinner. Saw out one body and two wings and bore holes for cords, as shown in the drawing. Saw out the platform and four wheels, and finish them carefully. The front wheels turn on 1" flat-headed nails that are driven into the edge of the platform 3/4" from the end. The rear wheels are driven onto a wire axle which turns in two wire staples that are driven into the bottom of the platform, 3/4" from the end and 1/4" from each edge. In driving these staples, take thought to avoid splitting the platform. Also, when boring holes thru the center of the four wheels, take care to secure proper direction and sizes of holes for a running fit in the front wheels and a press fit onto the axle in the rear wheels. Hold the body with foot up, and nail the platform onto it. With round-nose pliers make the connecting rods from No. 12 wire with the eyes neatly shaped and at right angles to each other. Attach the rods to the wings by staples so the joints will work freely without too much play. Attach the other ends of the rods to the outer faces of the rear wheels by means of short flat-headed nails. The nails pass thru the eyes of the rods and are driven into the wheels 1/4" from the outer rims. The nails in the two wheels must be in line with each other, as they act as cranks to actuate the wings. After the rear axle is assembled and fastened in place, the wings are fastened to the body.

The parts of the wings that touch the body must have been rounded off, as shown in section on the drawing. The edges are removed from the holes so as not to wear the cord.

A heavy strong twine may be used for hinging the wings to the body. Each of the two hinges is formed by slipping the end of the cord up thru the wing, then thru the body, then down thru the second wing, and back thru the body; then tie the ends in a square knot under the first wing. Adjust all parts accurately so they are not too loose and yet work without friction.

This goose may be painted white with gray stripes on the wings, red beak, foot and wheels, and green platform.

Attach a string or slender stick to the end of the platform to roll it on the floor.

Watch the flying goose and see if she can rise by flapping her wings.

THE DODO BIRD

Until recently this bird has been considered extinct, but is here revived to show what it may have appeared like. In this case it has chosen to perambulate on four wheels and maintain a bobbing motion of the head and body by means of a connecting rod between the breast and a crank on the front axle.

The body swings on a pivot between two uprights which we will call the wings. These wings are held apart by a piece between the feet, which is slightly thicker than the body to give the body freedom of motion.

The two base pieces are fastened onto the outside of the feet by three 1-1/2" brads driven in from each side. The front end of the base is held together by a piece 3/4" square and 3/8" thick, which is also the thickness of the base pieces and wheels. The body and wings are of 1/4" stock.

Make saw cuts 1/8" deep across the bottom of the base pieces to form bearings for the two wire axles, one 1/2" from the rear, and the other 1-1/4" from the front end of the base. The axles should turn freely in these cuts, and nails bent over them will secure them in their places. The parts are colored in gay contrasting colors before assembling. The body is pivoted between the wings and the piece between the feet is fastened. Then the base is assembled and fastened to the outside of the feet of the dodo.

Before inserting the axles into the wheels, the ends should be hammered a little flat to prevent them from turning in the wheels. It should be a tight fit. Next, put the axles into the cuts, and fasten. Slip a fine nail thru the hole in the upper end of the connecting rod, and drive it thru the breast of the bird, and bend the end. Then put the lower, or forked, end of the connecting rod over the crank on the front axle and secure it by a brad.

When rolling along on the floor, the dodo should bob its head in a most polite manner in recognition of being well put together.

ROCKING-HORSE AND RIDER

The body of the horse is shown full size and may be sawed from 3/8" wood. All the other parts should be made of 1/4" wood and have the grain run lengthwise.

Two fore and two hind legs are required. The upper end of each leg is tapered off on the side that fits against the body so that the feet will be far enough apart to be fastened on the inside of the rockers (see end view B). Each pair of legs should be fastened to the body with a nail thru the three thicknesses at the place marked. Saw out two rockers and finish to true and smooth curves. With fine brad fasten the feet on the inside of the rocker at the places marked, but take care that the wood does not split. Saw out three rails 2" long and 3/8" wide to be fastened onto the top of the rockers with two fine brads, one at each end of the rocker and one in the middle, as indicated on the drawing by the letter R. The upper ends of the legs may now be secured to the body by two or three brads.

Give the whole a general touching up to assure strength and smoothness. Give it a priming coat of paint. Let dry four days. Paint saddle, bridle, cross rails and rocker red, and the body and legs white. Outline eyes, nose, hoofs and other features in black, and the rocking horse is complete.

The body of the rider is 3/8", arms and legs 3/16" stock.

ANIMATED ELEPHANT

The body is composed of three thicknesses. The two on the outside are 1/4" thick, the one in between is 3/8" thick, and reaches only to the dotted line (Fig. 18), to allow room for the head which is 3/8" thick and moves between the two outside pieces with 1-1/4" nail as pivot. This is a loose joint.

Saw out the platform and wheels to dimensions. The connecting rod should be of wood 1/8" thick and 1/4" wide. A hole is bored near the end that is pivoted to the throat of the elephant; in the other end is a fork to fit over the axle crank with a fine hole bored at right angle thru the connecting rod for a brad to prevent the crank from slipping out. The two axles are made from No. 12 steel wire. One is straight, the other has a crank in the middle. Flat places are hammered near each end of the axles so that they may be pressed into holes in the wheels and not turn. Each axle is held to the platform by two staples which may be made from long brads by cutting off the heads.

Color the elephant gray, the blanket red and yellow, the platform and connecting rod red, and the wheels yellow. Fasten the platform to the elephant by driving nails thru it into the feet. Press the wheels onto the axles and fasten the axles under the platform so they move freely. Fit head and rod in places so all connections are strong and move without friction. Attach a string to the front end of the platform, and when pulled on the floor, the elephant will swing his trunk up and down in a vicious manner.

THE BUCKING MULE

Saw out of 3/8" stock the bodies of the mule and rider (Fig. 19). All legs and arms are of 3/16" stock. Two circles to be placed between the man's arms and shoulders are of 1/4" wood. The connecting rod, marked Z, Z (Fig. 20), shown full size and of 3/8" stock, is to connect the fore legs of the mule and the crank on the axle. Fasten the legs to the mule and arms and legs to the rider with loose joints. Then take rod Z, Z, and make the fork-like cut in the wide end and drill a small hole thru it at right angles to that cut. This is for the nail that holds the crank in place. Fasten the rod securely between the fore legs of the mule at the position indicated. The tail is then fastened with two 1/2" brads. Paint the mule and rider in contrasting colors.

Next, make the frame and wheels as follows: Saw out two 5" wheels and bore the center holes to fit tight on the wire axle and to run true. The frame, the handle, the sides and end are shaped from 1/2" stock. The two upright pieces are made of 3/8" stock and securely fastened on the inner faces of the sides. Then the sides are nailed to the end piece and the handle. Cuts are sawed into the lower edge of the sides, 2" from the end to form a bearing for the axle. Paint wheels red and frame green. The axle is best made by holding the wire in a vise. First, make bends 3/8" on each side of the middle point. Then make the second pair of bends 1-1/4" from the middle. Near each end of the axle, flattened places are hammered so that, when driven into the wheels, they will not turn. Drive the wheels onto the axle. Put the axle in place, drive nails into the sides, and bend them over the axle to hold it in place. Take the mule, put the projection from the body between the two uprights on the frame, insert a 1-1/2" nail thru the three holes, and bend the end back. Join the connecting rod to the crank. Stride the rider on the mule and insert a nail thru his thighs and the back of the mule. With a neat cord connect the hands to the mouth of the mule, for a bridle. Take hold of the handle and watch the mule gallop when you push him along.

FOX-AND-GOOSE GAME

This game is played by two people on a board with 33 holes, as shown in the drawing. The board may be made either square or octagonal. The octagon is made from a square by placing one point of the compass at a corner and the other point at the center of the board. With each corner in turn as a center, draw arcs intersecting the edges of the board. Connect these points of intersection across the corners of the board; saw off the four triangles. Smooth the edges and chamfer. Lay out and bore the holes. Make 26 pegs to fit loose. Leave 24 white for the geese and color 2 red for the foxes.

In playing the game, all the pegs are put in their places. The foxes at Nos. 9 and 11; the geese at 7, 8, 12, 13, and consecutively up to 33. The foxes and geese can move on the lines only, in any direction from one hole to the next. A fox can also jump over a goose and take it, provided the hole just beyond it is vacant. In fact, the fox can jump and take several geese in various directions if conditions permit. The geese can not jump, but they can move so as to hem in the foxes and make it impossible for them to move. This means that the foxes have lost the game. In starting the game, the player having the foxes gets the first move. His aim is to jump and capture all the geese and win the game. Each player takes turn in moving. When crowding a goose in on a fox, the player always has another goose behind it so that the fox can not jump it. This game is one of the kind that requires foresight and study. It is highly interesting and entertaining, and by experience, players may become quite expert at the game.

_Solitaire_--This same board may also be used for the solitaire game. However, that requires 32 pegs. They are put in all the holes except No. 17. The object is to jump and take all the pegs but one, and it must land in hole 17. Unaided, this is difficult to do, and it would take a long time for a person to discover a solution. For this reason, the reader is presented with the following "Key": 5 jumps to 17 and takes 10, 12 to 10 and takes 11, etc.; 3 to 11, 1-3, 18-6, 3-11, 30-18, 27-25, 13-27, 24-26, 27-25, 22-24, 31-23, 33-31, 16-28, 31-23, 4-16, 7-9, 21-7, 10-8, 7-9, 24-22, 22-8, 8-10, 10-12, 12-26, 26-24, 17-15, 29-17, 18-16, 15-17.

NINE MEN'S MILL