Edinburgh Painted by John Fulleylove; described by Rosaline Masson

CHAPTER XI

Chapter 177,288 wordsPublic domain

EDINBURGH TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW

Life holds not an hour that is better to live in: the past is a tale that is told, The future a sun-flecked shadow, alive and asleep, with a blessing in store. SWINBURNE.

In Edinburgh, at whatever other hour of the day the resident or tourist may let his mind dwell in the past, at one o’clock he will always be brought back to the present moment; for at one o’clock the gun goes off at the Castle, and horses and men and women that are gun-shy are greatly startled, and every one pulls out his watch. But, except precisely at one o’clock, it is as impossible to exist in Edinburgh without living in the past as it would be to walk along Princes Street without seeing the Castle. We are a little archaic in Edinburgh. Yet there are other things of the present that you may notice after you have set your watch to Greenwich time by the one-o’clock gun. Princes Street is gay with shop windows under awnings, with the big bow-windows of the Clubs, with many hotels; and now there are bigger and newer hotels to east and to west, at the railway stations. And Princes Street is full of a constant stream of traffic, plying in the wide street between the one broad pavement on the north side and the row of statues along the green sward and the blazing flower-beds in the beautiful gardens opposite: cable cars with noisy bells, motor cars, carriages, bicycles, electric broughams, station lorries, hansom cabs, and the crawling “char-a-bancs,” with their scarlet-coated drivers, picking up passengers for the Forth Bridge or Roslin. But still the north-east wind takes the liberty of blowing from the Forth among all these modern innovations, and whirling an unwary hat or a too-lightly-held newspaper high into the air.

As the wind is unchanged in temper, so are the natural features unchanged in beauty; and the views of the city, “from a’ the airts the wind can blaw,” are pictures to gladden the artist or the poet. There is the “Marmion view” from the south,--the view that Scott loved and Turner painted,--but with a denser massing of suburb than they saw, reaching right up to the furzy knoll where Marmion stood. Here is the Castle in all its majesty, with the Grassmarket and Cowgate huddled picturesquely under its precipices, and the old dark descending spine of the High Street, with St. Giles’s open crown over the roofs, and then all the maze and glitter of a newer world, with its many domes and steeples, and the Forth beyond.

This is from the south; but, seen from the western roads and heights, the city is even more striking. As you drive to the Forth Bridge along the fine old coach road to Queensferry,--the very road along which Jonathan Oldbuck and his companion drove in their journey in _The Antiquary_--you pass an occasional farm-house with mellow stacks about it and a smoky throat, and you must remember you are “within a mile of Edinburgh toun,” where “Bonny Jockie, blythe and gay, kissed sweet Jenny making hay.” Here, turn your head and you will see the dark mass of Arthur’s Seat lifted up in the air, and upon its western wall the fretted outline of the city and the Castle Rock, seeming not painted but actually engraven like some old hieroglyphic.

To view Edinburgh from the north, you must journey over the Forth Bridge and look across from the Fife coast opposite. From the wooded “haughs” between Aberdour and Burntisland, Edinburgh, seen through a veil of green summer leaves across six miles of rough bright blue, seems painted in air, a scene of magic loveliness not to be excelled in all the idyllic world of romance or dream. In the nearest foreground the little island of Inchcolm with its tiny golden strand and ruined monastery; farther out to sea Inchkeith’s lighthouse ringed with a fringe of foam; and, beyond, a world of heights and hollows: Arthur’s Seat and the rigid uncurved slant of the Salisbury Crags, and the gabled intricacy of the Old Town, stretching from the hollow up to the black mass of rock on which the Castle glooms in mid-air, and then the New Town fantastically domed and steepled in the low foreground, and the white-columned summit of Calton Hill. Down at the water’s edge, between the Forth and this fairy show, are the dusky roofs and docks and shipping of Granton and Leith. Away to the west, the dwindling Forth is spanned by the arches of the monster bridge; and beyond it stretch the woods of Dalmeny and Abercorn. In the far east, where the Forth has widened to the sea, are the outjutting headlands, and on one of them is the curious cone called Berwick Law; while, behind all, for a background, the distant Pentlands slope to the south in softest purple.

Dear to the heart of the resident is the view seen as one comes down the Mound on a winter’s afternoon at sunset, when the Castle stands dark against the glorious red of the western sky, and Princes Street, her lamps and her windows all alight, looks like a jewelled necklace.

But of all views of Edinburgh the most mystically beautiful is that seen from the Calton Hill by night. The city is close about you; but in the darkness there is isolation. Across a gulf of impenetrable gloom there is spread a panorama of heights and depths, beaded by a myriad of lights, with those in the depths seeming to be reflected from those in the heights, like a starry sky seen in a deep pool. And, as you encircle the hill, you find always some new phantasy of light and gloom, until on the side towards the Firth there seems to be a stretch of flat black country garlanded with lights that dip and rise with every bend of the land down to the lip of the sea; and all round the coast every

point and pier and headland is studded with coloured sea-lights; and far out in the measureless mid-Firth flashes the great Eye of the revolving light of Inchkeith.

Brave the “sharp sops of sleet and snipand snaw,” and come to Edinburgh in winter, and you will find all the residents at home and busy: the Law Courts sitting; the University at work; a regiment, with khaki coverings to their kilts, quartered at the Castle, and tramping through the town in rhythm to the tune of the pipes; and all the gaiety of balls and dinners and theatres in the evening hours. Risk the keen blast of the east wind, and come to Edinburgh in April, and you will be able to attend the Graduation in Arts at the M‘Ewan Hall,--in the character of an honorary graduate if you deserve it. Come in May, and you will find the streets thronged with black-coated ministers and elders from every parish in Scotland; for the Assemblies will be sitting, and the Lord High Commissioner will be holding semi-royal state at Holyrood. Come in autumn, as you always will; and it will be to find the long rows of stately stone dwellings left tenantless, and their appalling regularity and monotony rendered even more appalling by the brown paper that fills the windows, and by the boarding that is up before the doors. But the shop windows will be full of tartans for your edification, and you will find your cabman able to tell you all you want to know. At any other season Edinburgh is a hospitable city, and it is growing every day a more cosmopolitan one. English residents have altered national ways; ruthless hands are tearing down our beautiful old stone houses, and building tenements in their places; and soon--too soon--all Scottish traits will be lost.

But the Castle Rock cannot be levelled. It was there, in the mist and the rain, before Edinburgh began; and it will be there, in the mist and the rain, when Edinburgh has ceased to be.

Index

Abbotsford, 138, 141, 145

Abercromby, George (Lord), 134

Adamson, Bishop (1584), 55

Advocates’ Close, 72, 73

Albany, Duke of, brother of James III., 13-14

Alexander II., 46

Alexander III., 9, 17, 24

Allan, Sir William, 138, 149

Alnwick Castle, 6

Anchor Close, 75, and _note_

Angus, Earl of, called “Archibald Bell-the-Cat,” 48, 49

Angus, Earl of, 15 _note_, 50, 88

Anne of Denmark, wife of James VI., 71, 102

Argyle, Marquis of, 15-16, 80

Arran, Earl of, 88, 89

Arthur’s Seat, 23, 27, 36, 38, 165

Ashestiel, 138

Assembly Rooms (Old Edinburgh), 73, 74, 75

Auchinleck, Lord, his caustic saying concerning Dr. Johnson, 110

Ayala, Don Pedro de, ambassador from Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain to the Court of James IV., 28, 29

Aytoun, Professor, 149

Bailie Fyfe’s Close, 74, 77

Baillie, Joanna, 138

Balcarres, Countess of. _See_ Hyndford’s Close

Balfour, Dr., grandfather of R. L. Stevenson, 157

Bannatyne Club, the, 142

“Banner of Blue,” 14

Barbauld, Mrs., 134

Barnard, Lady Anne (_née_ Lindsay), 62, 77

Bastian, servant of Mary, Queen of Scots, 40

Baxter’s Close, 70

Beaton, Cardinal, 50, 76

Beaton, James, Archbishop of Glasgow, 88-89

Beattie, the poet, 108

Beaufort, Jane, wife of James I., 11-12, 25-26

“Begbie murder,” the, 77

Belches of Invermay, Sir John and Lady Jane, and their daughter, Scott’s first love, 133

“Bell-the-Cat.” _See_ Angus

Bell’s Wynd, 73, 74

Bernham, David de, Norman Bishop of St. Andrews (1243), 46

“Bible Close,” 78

Bishops of Edinburgh (Established Episcopalian), 54

Bishop’s Palace. _See_ Whitehorse Close

Black, Adam, 151

Black, Professor, 120

Blackford Hill, 130, 159

Blackfriars Street, formerly Wynd, 40, 76, 88, 109

Blackie, Professor, 152

_Blackwood’s Magazine_, 149

Blair, Dr., 108

Borthwick, Master Gunner to James IV., 27

Boswell, Sir Alexander, his verses on Miss Nicky Murray, 73-74, 138

Boswell, James, 68, 100, 108-109, 110

Boswell, Mrs., 108-109

Bothwell, Adam, Bishop of Orkney, 40, 71-72

Bothwell, Earl of, 39, 40, 41, 66, 71

“Bow-head Saints,” the, 96-97

Boyd, George. _See_ Mound

Boyd’s Close, 82 _note_, 107-108

Braid Hills, the, 159

Brantôme, Sieur de, 36, 37

Brewster, Sir David, 151

Bristo Street, 113

Brodie’s Close, 70

Brougham, Lord, 150, 151

Brown, George, builder of George Square and Brown Square, 122

Brown, Dr. John, 151

Brown, Dr. Thomas, 149

Brown Square, 122

Bruce, King Robert the, 9, 10, 18, 42, 83

Bruce, Marjory, daughter of King Robert the Bruce, 42

Buchan, Earl of, 108

Buchanan, George, 50, 91, 92-93

Burnet, Miss, 112, 114

Burns, Robert, lodges in Baxter’s Close, 70, 75; his triumphant reception in Edinburgh, 111-113; meeting with Scott, 113; “Clarinda and Sylvander,” 113-114; _Edina, Scotia’s darling seat_, 114-115

Burton, Dr. John Hill, 151

Byers’ Close, 71-73, and 71 _note_

Byers of Coates, John, 71 _note_

Caledonian Hunt, the, and Burns’s Poems, 112-113

Calton Hill, 46; the view from, 166

Campbell, Thomas, 137, 149

Candlish, Dr., 150

Canongate, the, 24, 62, 63, 64, 67, 78-82, 100, 101, 105, 106, 124

Cant’s Close, 76

Carberry Hill, battle of, 41, 66

Carey, Sir Robert, 41-42

Carlyle, Dr., of Inveresk, 107

Carlyle, Thomas, 150, 151

Carnegie, Andrew, 154

“Castell of Maydens,” 5

Castle, the, 3-21; story of Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret, 5-8; Queen Margaret’s Chapel in, 5, 7, 9, 15, 16; “Frank’s Escalade,” 10; besieged by Henry IV. of England, 11; the “Black Dinner” (1440), 12-13, 17; story of the Duke of Albany, 13-14; James VI. born in the Palace of, 15; Jacobites imprisoned in, 16; the Great Hall of, 16-18, 155; the Regalia, 18-20, 140; “Mons Meg,” 20-21, 144; mentions of, 23, 24, 26, 69, 86, 120; the “one-o’clock gun,” 163, 164, 165, 166, 167, 168

Castle Street, 135, 136, 137 _note_, 138, 139, 142, 143, 145

Cathedral (St. Giles’s). _See_ St. Giles, Church of St. Mary, 71 _note_, 154

Chalmers, Dr., 150

_Chambers’s Edinburgh Journal_, 149

Chambers, Robert, 19, and _note_, 20, 54, 72, 73, 74, 81, 119-121, 129; his writings, and his friendship with Scott, 149

Chambers, William, 61, 155

Charles I., 18, 41, 42, 43, 54, 82, 94

Charles II., 19, 43, 58, 65, 95

Charles Edward Stuart (Prince Charlie), 43-44, 99, 130, 131 _note_

Chepman, Walter, earliest Scottish printer, 27, 47, 48, 49 _note_

Chiesley of Dalry, 153

Christison, Sir Robert, 151

“Christopher North.” _See_ Wilson

Church of St. Giles. _See_ St. Giles

“Clarinda” (Mrs. M‘Lehose), 113-114

Claverhouse, Graham of, 126, 138

“Cleanse the Causeway,” 66, 88-89, 127

Clerks of Penicuik, the, 98, 132, 133, 136, 138

Closes and Wynds of Edinburgh, 62-82, 88, 95-96, 99, 100, 105, 106, 108, 109, 120, 129

Coalstoun, Lord, story of, 72-73

Coates House, 71 _note_

Cockburn, Lord, 149, 150

Cockburn, Mrs., 100

Colinton, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162

College Wynd, 106, 120, 129

Combe, George, 151

Comely Bank, 150

Constable, Thomas, 141

Court of Session, 85

Covenanters, the, 59, 96, 160

Cowgate, the, 40, 64, 87, 88, 90, 91, 95, 96, 120, 164

Crabbe, George, 138, 143

Craig, Lord, 113

Craigie, Lord President, 124

Craigmillar, 144 _note_

Craigmillar Quarry, 122

Crail, 35

Cranstoun, George (Lord Corehouse), 134

Cranstoun, Miss, 134, 135

Creech’s Land, 105

“Crochallan Fencibles,” 75, 112

Cromwell, Oliver, banquets in the Hall of the Castle, 18; stays at Moray House, 79-80; enters Edinburgh after the battle of Dunbar, 58

Cross, the City, 31, 43, 58, 98, 132, 141

Cullen Professor, 120

Cunningham, Alison, 157

Cunningham, Dr., 150

Cunyie House (the Scottish Mint), 76

Currie, 161

Dalkeith, 30, 144

Dalmeny, the woods of, 166

Darnley, Earl of, 38-39, 39-40, 42, 76

David I., 23-24, 46

David II., and David’s Tower in the Castle, 10

Dawney Douglas’s Tavern, 75, 112

Deacon Brodie. _See_ Brodie’s Close

Defoe, 104-105

“Delta.” _See_ Moir

De Quincey, 150

Dick of Prestonfield, Sir Alexander, 109

Dickens, Charles, 151

Disruption, the, 150-151

Don of Newton, Sir Alexander, 138

Donald Bane, 7

Douglas, Duchess of, 108

Douglas, Duke of, 125

Douglas, Gavin, 27; account of, 48-50, 87-89, 148

Douglas, Lady Jane, 70

Dowie’s Tavern, 112

Drummond of Hawthornden, 29, 94, 104

Drummond, Lord Provost, 123

Drummond Place, 125, 126, 152

Drummore, Lord, 124-125

Drumsheugh, the ancient forest of, 23, 31, 46

Duddingston, 100

Dunbar, William, 28, 29, 31, 87

Dundas, Sir Laurence, 125

Dundonald, Earl of, 70

Dunfermline, 4, 6, 8, 155

Edgar, second son of Malcolm Canmore, 7

Edinburgh made an Episcopal See (1633), 54

_Edinburgh Courant_, 104

_Edinburgh Review_, 137 and _note_, 149

Edward I. of England, 9, 24, 46, 50

Edward II. of England, 25, 46

Edward “the Confessor,” 5

Eglintoun, Susanna, Countess of, 75, 98-100

Eglintoun, Lord, 98-99

Elizabeth, Queen of England, 42

Elliott of Minto, Miss Jeanie, 122

Erskine, friend of Scott, 134

Erskine, Henry, Advocate, 108

“Ettrick Shepherd,” the. _See_ Hogg

Fairmilehead, 161

Falkland, 11, 35

Fergusson, Professor, 113, 134

Fergusson, Robert, 112

Ferrier, the family of, 112, 114

Ferrier, Miss, 149

Findlay, John Ritchie, 154

Firth of Forth. _See_ Forth

Fleming of Cumbernauld, Sir Malcolm, 12, 13

Flodden, battle of, 31-33, 35, 49 _note_; the Flodden Wall, 62, 87

Forbes of Pitsligo, Sir William, and Burns, 112

Forbes of Pitsligo, Sir William, and Scott, 133, 145

Forbes, William, first Established Episcopal Bishop of Edinburgh (1634), 54

“Fore-stairs,” 65, 66, 76

Forth (river, and Firth of), 3-4, 5, 7, 8, 21, 35, 36, 46, 155, 159, 165, 166, 167

Forth Bridge, the, 4, 155, 164, 165, 166

Fortune’s Tavern, 75-76

Franklin, Benjamin, 107

Gay, John, 81, 105-106

General’s Entry, 113

George I., 16

George III., 98, 99, 126

George IV., 141, 142

George Square, 122, 130, 131

George Street, 135, 139, 150, 157

Glammis, Lady, 14-15, and _note_

Glenlee, Lord, 122

“Golden Charter,” 14

Goldsmith, Oliver, 73, 106

Goodsir, Professor John, 151

“Goose Pie, the,” 98

Gordon, Duchess of, 76-77, 112

Gordon of Haddo, Sir John, 58

Grange, Lord, 74

Granton, 150, 166

Grassmarket, the, 15, 97, 120, 164

Gray of Pittendrum, Lord, and Lady, 68-69, and _note_

Great King Street, 150

Greyfriars’ Church and Churchyard, 51, 96, 133

Gustavus Vasa, Prince, 141

Guthrie, Dr., 150

Haddington, first Earl of (“Tam o’ the Cowgate”), 90-92

“Haddo’s Hole,” in St. Giles’s, 58, 59

Hailes, Lord, 108

Hall, the Rev. Mr., Presbyterian divine (1603), 53

Hamilton, Sir William, 150

Hart, Andro, 94

Hawthornden, 94, 109, 159

Hay, James, story of, 96

“Heart of Midlothian,” 63. _See also_ Tolbooth

Henry III. of England, 9

Henry IV. of England, 11

Henry VII. of England, 30

Henry VIII. of England, 35, 37, 46, 50

Henry, Prince, eldest son of James VI., 41

Heriot, George, 90-91

Heriot Row, 156, 157

High School, the (in Old Edinburgh), 71, 92, 130

High Street, the, 62, 76, 77, 80, 88, 90, 94, 96, 105, 108, 123, 124, 127, 141, 164

“Highland Lady,” the, 153

Hogg, James (the “Ettrick Shepherd”), 136-137, 149, 160

Holbein, his miniature portrait of James IV., 29

Holyrood, 18, 22-44, 47, 53, 62, 63, 64, 65, 70, 76, 84, 91, 109, 120, 144, 167; legend of the founding of the Abbey, 23; Abbey burnt by Edward II., 25; in reign of James IV., 26-33; in reign of James V., 33-35; in reign of Queen Mary, 35-41; Charles I. christened at, 41; and crowned at, 42; rebuilt by Charles II., 43; Abbey Church restored by James VII., 43; Prince Charlie at, 43-44; the Abbey desecrated and destroyed, 44

Home, John, 107

Hope, Sir Thomas, King’s Advocate, 34, 95

Homer, Francis, 52

Hume, David, 68, 71, 100-101, 109, 125

Hunter’s Tryst, 160

Huntly, Earl of, 39

Hyndford’s Close, 76, 77

Inchcolm, 165

Inchkeith, 109, 165

Irving, John, 134

Isles, Lord of the, story of, in 1429, 25-26

Jack’s Land, 101

Jacobites imprisoned in the Castle, 16

James I., 11, 12, 22, 26, 84

James II., 17, 26, 85, 86

James III., 14, 26, 68, 85

James IV., 16, 19, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, and _note_, 37, 38, 42, 49 _note_, 66, 87

James V., 14, 18, 33, 35, 85, 87, 88, 89

James VI., 15, 18, 41-42, 43, 52, 53, 71, 85, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 102-103, 104, 124

James VII., 43, 95

James’s Court, 68, 70, 101, 108, 125

Jeffrey, Lord, 131-132, 137, and _note_, 138, 149, 150

“Jenny Geddes,” 45, 54-58, 59

“Jock o’ Sklates.” _See_ Mar, Earl of

Jonson, Ben, 104

Johnson, Dr., 68, 82 _note_, 100, 107-109, 110, 111

Kames, Lord, 108

Keith of Ravelston, Mrs., 148

Kemp, architect of the Scott Monument, 154 _note_

Kennedy, Bishop, 85-86

Kennedy, Sir Archibald, 98

Kincaid, Alexander, publisher, 107

Kingsley, Charles, 151

Kirkaldy of Grange, 52

Knox, John, 38, 49 _note_, 50, 51, and _note_, 52, 55, 61; his house, 65, 77, 90, and _note_; his grave, 65, 149

Krames, the, 53

Lady Stair’s Close, 68-70, 105

“Laigh Council House,” the, 91

Laing, David, 106, 149

Laing, Malcolm, 134

Lands, the (in Old Edinburgh), 62-82, 85, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 95, 99, 100, 101, 103, 105, 107, 108, 112, 113

Lang Dykes (_called also_ Lang Gait), 121, 126

Lasswade, Scott’s cottage at, 136

Laud, Archbishop, his Service-Book, 55, and _note_, 56

Lauder, 48

Lauder of Blyth, Sir Alexander, 49

Lawnmarket, the, 62, 63, 68, 69, 127

Leith, 13, 14, 20, 26, 27, 34, 36, 97, 104, 142, 166

Leslie, Alexander, the Covenanting General, 18

Leven, Earl of, 76

Libberton’s Wynd, 112

Library, Advocates’, 96, 134; Public, 95, 154; Signet, 91

Lindores, Abbey Church of, 52

Lindsay, Earl of, 41

Lindsay, Sir David, 34, 89

Linlithgow, 35

Lister, Lord, 151-152

Lockhart of Carnwath, George, 122

Lockhart, John Gibson, 140, 141, 144, 149

“Logy, Maister Leonard,” 33 _note_

Lord of the Isles. _See_ Isles

Lorn, Lord (1650), 80

Loudoun, Earl of, 69

Luckenbooths, the, 105

Macaulay, Lord, 151

M‘Crie, Thomas, 149

M‘Ewan, William, 154

M‘Ewan Hall, the, 154, 167

Mackenzie, Sir George, 76, 95-96

Mackenzie, Henry (“the Man of Feeling”), 149

Maclean, of Torloisk, Mrs., and her daughters, 138

Macmorran, Bailie, 71

Madeleine, first wife of James V., 34, 44, 94

Malcolm Canmore, 4, 5-8, 35, 126, 155

Mansfield, Earl of, 74

Mar, Earl of, 18; Earl of Mar called “Jock o’ Sklates,” 92

Margaret, Saint, Queen of Scotland, second wife of Malcolm Canmore, 5-8, 9, 15, 16, 24, 126, 155

Margaret, daughter of Henry III. of England, betrothed to Alexander III., 9

Margaret of Denmark, wife of James III., 26

Margaret Tudor, wife of James IV., 30, 35, 37, 50, 66, 87

“Marmion view,” the, 164

Mary of Gueldres, wife of James II., 26, 86

Mary of Lorraine (Mary of Guise), second wife of James V., and Regent of Scotland, 35, 50, 51, 89-90

Mary, Queen of Scots, 5, 8, 15, 18, 35-41, 50, 52, 66, 76, 84, 143

Maud, daughter of Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret, 126

Maxwell of Monreith, Lady, and her daughters, 76-77

Meadows, the, 122

Melrose, dwelling of the Abbots of, 76, 95

Melville, Andrew, 93

Menzies, William, anecdote concerning Scott and son of, 138

Merchiston Castle, 93, 153

Miller, Hugh, 151

Mint, the Scottish. _See_ Cunyie House

Moir, Dr. (“Delta”), 150

Monboddo, Lord, 112

“Mons Meg,” 20-21, 144

Montrose, Marquis of, 59, 69, 80, and _note_

Moray House, account of, 79-80

Morocco Close, 78

Mound, the, formation of, 127; and Sir Walter Scott, 137, 139; view from, 166

Munro, Professor, 120

Murray, Dr. Alexander, 149

Murray of Auchtertyre, Patrick, 134

Murray of Broughton, 131, and _note_

Murray of Henderland, Mrs., 108

Murray, Miss Nicky, 74, 77

Murray of Simprim, Patrick, 134

Murray, manager of the Theatre Royal, 144

Myllar, Andro, 27

Mylne’s Court, 68

Mylne, John, Royal Master Mason, 43

Mylne, Robert, Royal Master Mason, 68

Mylne, Robert, F.R.S., Royal Master Mason, account of, 74-75, and _note_

Nairne, Baroness, 100, 148

Nairne Lodge, 100

Napier of Merchiston, 93

National Portrait Gallery, 154

Neaves, Lord, 150

Nelson, Thomas, 155

Netherbow Port, the, 62, 63

Newark, Lord, Covenanting General, 98

Niddry’s Wynd, 74

Nor’ Loch, 26, 51, 69, 120, 124, 126-127

North Bridge, the, 123, 137

Old Assembly Close, 73

“Old Kirk, the” (in St. Giles’s), 51

Oliphants of Gask, the, 100, 148

“Outer Tolbooth,” the, 49 _note_

Panmure’s Close, 100

Paoli, the Corsican, 68

Parliament House, 65, 72, 81, 85, 134, 142, 144

Paterson, John, Bishop of Edinburgh, 82

Pembroke, Earl of (Shakespeare’s friend), 103

Pentlands, the, 156, 159, 161, 166

Philosophical Institution, the, and its first Presidents and Lecturers, 151

Playfair, Lyon (Lord Playfair), 151

Poker Club, the, 75, 76, 120

Pope Innocent IV. (and St. Margaret), 8

Pope Julius II. (and James IV)., 19

Potterrow, 79, 100, 113, 130

Preston Aisle, the (in St. Giles’s), 47

Preston of Gorton, William, 47

Priestfield (now Prestonfield), 27, 109

Primrose, James, Viscount, 69

Princes Street, 124, 125, 126, 132, 142, 153, 154, 157, 163, 164, 166

Printing in Edinburgh in the reign of James IV., 27

Queen Street, 143, 152, 154, 157

Queensberry, Duchess of (“Kitty”), 81, 105

Queensberry House, 79; tragedy in, 80-81

Queensberry, Marquis of, 81

Queensferry Road, view of Edinburgh from, 165

Raeburn, Sir Henry, 144, 149

Ramsay, Allan (the poet), 74, 97-98, 99, 105-106, 107, 160

Ramsay, Allan (the artist), 98, 108

Ramsay, Dean, 150

Ramsay, General, 98

Randolph of Strathdon, Sir Thomas, 10

Regalia, the Scottish, 18-20, 140, 144

Riccio, David, 15, 38-39

Richard II. of England, 46

Riddle’s Close, 70, 101

Robertson, Principal, 108, 109

Ronsard (the French poet), 34

Rose, Abernethy, Bishop of Edinburgh, 54

Rosebery, the Earl of, 68

Rosehaugh Close, 95-96

Roslin, Boswell takes Dr. Johnson to, 109; Scott takes Wordsworth to, 136, 164

Ross, the Lords, and Ross House, 122

Rothesay, the Duke of, eldest son of Robert III., 11

Royal Scottish Academy, 142

Royal Scottish Society, 142

Rullion Green, battle of, 59, 160

Ruskin, John, 151

Russel, Alexander, 151

Ruthven, Earl of, 41

St. Andrew’s Church in George Street, 150

St. Andrew Square, 124, 125

St. Cecilia’s Hall, 74-75

St. David Street, 125, 145

St. Giles, Church of, 24, 27, 45-61, 63, 65, 72, 86, 87, 94, 120, 144, 155, 164

St. John Street, 107

Salamander Land, 105

Salisbury Crags, 26, 165

Sandilands’ Close, 85

Scott, Anne, 145

Scott, General, 125-126, 152

Scott, Sir Gilbert, 154

Scott of Harden, Hugh, 135

Scott, Lady, wife of Sir Walter Scott, 135, 137; death of, 145

Scott, Mr. and Mrs., parents of Sir Walter, 131

Scott, Sophia, 140

Scott, Sir Walter, 11, 20, 65, 69-70, 113, 129-146, 147, 160; his homes in and near Edinburgh, 135-139, 141, 143, 145; his later places of residence, 145; his circle of friends, 148-150; the Scott Monument, 153-154

Scottish Regalia. _See_ Regalia

Scougall, John, artist, 73

“Seven Sisters of Borthwick,” 20, 27

Simpson, Sir James Y., 151

Shakespeare, 5; was he in Edinburgh? 103

Shandwick Place, 145

Sharpe, Kirkpatrick, 138, 149

Shoemaker’s Land, 78

Six Feet Club, 160

Skelton, John, 151

Skene of Rubislaw, 135, 145

Skene, W. F., 151

Smith, Adam, 100

Smith, Alexander, 151

Smith, Sydney, 138

Smollett, Tobias, 107

Solway Moss, battle of, 35

South Gray’s Close, 76

Spottiswoode, Archbishop, 56

Stair, the Earl of, 69

Stair, Lady, and Lady Stair’s Close, 68-70

Stamp Office Close, 75-76, 99

Steele, Richard, 105

Stevenson, Robert Louis, 77, 78, 156-162

Stewart, Dugald, 149

Strichen’s Close, 76, 95

Stuart, Sir John (the “Black Knight of Lorn”), 12

Swanston, 156, 159-160, 161

Syme, Professor, 151

Tait, Professor, 151

“Tam o’ the Cowgate.” _See_ Haddington, Earl of

Taylor, “the Water Poet,” 64, 104

Telfer, Mrs., of Scotstoun, 107

Tercentenary of the University, 152

Thackeray, 151

Thomson, Thomas, legal antiquary, 133

Tinwald, Lord Justice Clerk, 124

“Tolbooth Kirk, the” (in St. Giles’s), 51 _note_

Tolbooth, the, 53, 59, 63, 65, 69, 80, 155 _note_

Topham, Captain, 73, 109-111

Trollope, Anthony, 151

Tron Church, the, 132

“Tulzie,” a, 66

Turgot, Bishop, 6, 7, 8

Tweeddale Close, 77

Tytlers of Woodhouselee, the, 136

Union, the (1707), 64, 76; Treaty of, 80, 81

Union, the Students’ University, 154

United Free Assembly Hall, 90

University, the, 85, 92, 109, 111, 120, 151, 152, 154, 159, 167

Vasa, Prince Gustavus, and the Baron Polier, 141

Victoria, Queen, her first visit to Edinburgh (1842), 147, 150

Volunteers, the Scottish Light Horse, 135

Walker Street, 145

Wallace, Sir William, 9, 24

Warbeck, Perkin, at the Court of James IV., 28

Watt, the Republican, 134

Webber, his attempt on Scott’s life, 139

Weir, Major, and his sister Grisel, 96-97

West Bow, 97

West Port, 92

Whiteford, Sir John, 112

Whiteford, Miss, 114

Whitehorse Close, 54, 81-82, and 82 _note_

Whitehorse Inn. _See_ Boyd’s Close

Wilson, Professor (“Christopher North”), 149

Wishart, Chaplain to Montrose, and afterward Bishop of Edinburgh, 59

Wood, Sir Andrew, 27-28

Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy visit Scott in 1803, 136

World’s End Close, 76

Wynds (of Edinburgh). _See_ Closes

THE END

_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_.

* * * * *

Books by Rosaline Masson

In Our Town.

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Leslie Farquhar.

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[JOHN MURRAY.

The Transgressors.

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Lives of Pollock and Aytoun. (_Famous Scots Series._)

“Has managed to invest the story of Pollock, whose Course of Time is practically unknown to the present generation, with a good deal of interest.”--_Literature._

[OLIPHANT, ANDERSON & FERRIER.

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Use and Abuse of English.

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[JAMES THIN, Edinburgh.

* * * * *

BONNIE SCOTLAND

PAINTED BY SUTTON PALMER

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Containing 75 Full-Page Illustrations in Colour

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“HAPPY ENGLAND,” by Mrs. Allingham, the England of sunshine, flower gardens and lovely rural scenes, which the summer of 1904 has shown to be no mere memory but actual fact, is now to be followed by =BONNIE SCOTLAND=, the next volume in Messrs. Black’s series of Beautiful Books illustrated in colour.

Mr. Sutton Palmer is the artist, and his style is not unlike Mrs. Allingham’s in its careful drawing and regard for detail, while he, too, has an eye for colour as is exemplified in his sketches of brown hills and purple heather, and in the glimpses of the indigo colouring of the deep lochs. Both artists are alike also in having elicited Mr. Ruskin’s praise of their work.

It was the heartfelt wish of Robert Burns to “make a beuk for poor auld Scotland’s sake”; he succeeded better than he knew. And Sir Walter Scott, a quarter of a century later, by publishing “The Lady of the Lake” and the “Waverley Novels,” became the Columbus of the Highlands, making the people and their country known to Englishmen. In =BONNIE SCOTLAND= the scenery familiar to many from Scott’s verbal descriptions will become real to the eye, and even those who know not Scotland cannot fail to feel the charm of this wonderful land of which Mr. Menpes has said: “Take the finest bit of Switzerland and the finest bit of Norway, dip them in water and you have Scotland.” And again, “It is the chief charm of Scotland that one sees everywhere such rich, deep, stirring colour.”

Mr. A. R. Hope Moncrieff, himself a Scot, who contributes the letterpress, has not written merely descriptive matter. He has given an outline of Scotland’s salient features, and glimpses of her history, national church, and literature, lightened by the entertaining reminiscences and anecdotes of one who has travelled widely and is able to judge his countrymen at their proper worth. In fact, this is a book that will have to take its place in the library of every lover of Scotland.

PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.

* * * * *

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Many volumes and countless articles have been written about Scottish life and character, while the grand and beautiful in the scenery of Scotland have been reproduced in numerous ways, from the rough wood-cut to the latest colour process, but in the present book the hard-beaten path is departed from, and some of the less familiar pictures of Scottish life are represented. Mr. Henry J. Dobson, R.S.W., has devoted much of his life to placing on canvas those humble Scottish interiors which are fast disappearing, and, though his work in this direction is well known to art lovers, the present reproduction in colours of twenty of his paintings will receive a wide welcome. The quiet, grey tones of the interiors, and the life-like portraits of the inmates, will recall to many the old country life in Scotland, when time to them was still young. The letterpress, which has been written by Mr. Wm. Sanderson, editor of the _Border Magazine_, deals in a pleasing way with many varied phases of Scottish life which, like the illustrations, will be sure to awaken cherished memories of the past in the hearts of many readers.

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* * * * *

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Now St. Saviour’s.

[2] Groom of the Chamber.

[3] She was a sister of the Earl of Angus, and had married, first, Lord Glammis, and, second, Archibald Campbell of Skipness.

[4] Chambers’s _Walks in Edinburgh_, p. 50.

[5] _Ibid._ p. 49.

[6] Paragon.

[7] Now Prestonfield.

[8] Miss Warrender’s _Walks near Edinburgh_. Edinburgh: David Douglas.

[9] _William Dunbar_, by Oliphant Smeaton, “Famous Scots Series.” Edinburgh: Oliphant, Anderson, and Ferrier.

[10] Bergenroth, _Simancas Papus_, vol. i. p. 169. Quoted in _Early Travellers in Scotland_, edited by Professor Hume Brown. Edinburgh: David Douglas.

[11] _Ibid._

[12] Scott’s _Tales of a Grandfather_.

[13] W. E. Aytoun, _Lays of the Cavaliers_.

[14] _Burgh Records of Edinburgh_ (1403-1528), p. 144.

[15] In September of that year “Maister Leonard Logy” was pensioned by James IV. for his “diligent and grate labour” in “bigging of the palace beside the Abbey of the Holy Croce.”

[16] Sir David Lindsay.

[17] Henry Glassford Bell.

[18] From _Buchanan’s Detection_ (first Scots translation) quoted in _Mary, Queen of Scots_, by Robert S. Rait, p. 108.

[19] _Diurnal of Occurrents in Scotland_, quoted in _Mary, Queen of Scots_, by Robert S. Rait, pp. 120-121.

[20] R. S. Mylne’s _The King’s Master Masons_.

[21] Sir Walter Scott.

[22] _History of St. Giles’s, Edinburgh_, by the Very Rev. James Cameron Lees, D.D. W. and R. Chambers.

[23] Still called “The Albany Aisle.”

[24] Walter Chepman built a chapel of the Crucifixion in the lower part of the churchyard, endowing its chaplain for the welfare of the soul of King James and those who were slain with him at Flodden. This chapel was pulled down during John Knox’s ministry to form the “Outer Tolbooth” for the Lords of Session.

[25] _Burgh Records of Edinburgh_ (1403-1528), p. 144.

[26] At the end of his life, Knox preached within another division, designated “The Tolbooth Kirk.”

[27] Laud’s Service-Book.

[28] Gordon, _Hist. of Scots Affairs_ (Spalding Club), i. 7.

[29] _History of Scotland_, Professor Hume Brown, ii. 301.

[30] The stream of people pouring out of a church-door is called “the church skaling” in Scotland.

[31] _History of St. Giles’s, Edinburgh_, by the Very Rev. Dr. Cameron Lees. W. and R. Chambers.

[32] “Edinburgh’s Joy,” etc. Quoted in Dr. Hill Burton’s _History_, vii. 387.

[33] _History of St. Giles’s, Edinburgh_, by the Very Rev. Dr. Cameron Lees. W. and R. Chambers.

[34] Taylor’s _Pennyless Pilgrimage_.

[35] A “land” is a house of several storeys, usually consisting of different tenements.

[36] _Melville’s Memoirs_, p. 181.

[37] The initials G. S. for the wife suggest that the formal “Egidia” was softened, after the homely Scottish fashion, into “Gidy.”

[38] Scandals.

[39] Byers’ Close takes its name from John Byers of Coates, and the carved lintel, “I.B: M.B: 1611 Blissit be God in al his giftis,” now on the old family mansion, Coates House, within the grounds of St. Mary’s Cathedral, was removed from Byers’ Close.

[40] Wilson’s _Memorials_, ii. footnote to p. 12; and Grant’s _Old and New Edinburgh_, i. 223.

[41] Sir Alexander Boswell.

[42] This Robert Mylne (F.R.S.) was a great-grandson of the Robert Mylne mentioned on p. 68, and was tenth in the line of Scottish Royal Master Masons of that name. He afterwards settled in London, where he built Blackfriars Bridge over the Thames, was the successor of Wren as Superintendent of St. Paul’s Cathedral, and died in 1811.

[43] Only the entries to these closes have been suffered to remain.

Chambers’s _Traditions of Edinburgh_, p. 214.

[44] _Heroic Love_, James Graham, Marquis of Montrose.

[45] Chambers’s _Traditions of Edinburgh_, pp. 354-356.

[46] This inn must not be confused with Whitehorse Inn in Boyd’s Close (no longer existing), where Dr. Johnson went on his arrival in Edinburgh in 1773.

[47] Poets.

[48] Wilson’s _Memorials_, ii. 48.

[49] Tells tales.

[50] It is disputed now by some whether this house was really Knox’s.

[51] Professor Masson’s _Edinburgh Sketches and Memories_, p. 86. A. and C. Black.

[52] From Chambers’s _Collection of Scottish Songs and Ballads_. Authorship attributed to two young lady visitors to Edinburgh.

[53] See Chapter IV., p. 63.

[54] Grant’s _Old and New Edinburgh_.

[55] Chambers’s _Traditions of Edinburgh_, p. 13.

[56] Chambers’s _Traditions of Edinburgh_, p. 16.

[57] _Vide_ Provost Creech, quoted in Chambers’s _Traditions of Edinburgh_.

[58] Murray of Broughton, Prince Charlie’s secretary, who afterwards gave evidence against the Cause.

[59] Presently Jeffrey, in his slashing review of _Marmion_ in the _Edinburgh Review_, was to accuse Scott of want of patriotism. He dined with Scott that night at Castle Street, and found Scott as hospitable and kind as ever; but from that moment Scott broke off his connection with the _Review_.

[60] Lockhart’s _Life of Scott_. Edinburgh: Adam and Charles Black, 1884.

[61] Dalkeith Palace, the residence of the Dukes of Buccleuch, is held by them, as Craigmillar used to be held, on the understanding that the Sovereign may command it as a Royal residence.

[62] “I return no more.”

[63] The architect was Kemp, who, when a poor lad, trudging along the Selkirk road with his joiner’s tools on his back, had been given “a lift” by the kindly Sir Walter Scott as he drove by. Shortly after the erection of the monument Kemp was drowned.

[64] Truro Cathedral, and the great Roman Catholic Cathedral at Westminster, both built since, are larger.

[65] This is often erroneously called “Old Parliament Hall,” a name that not only limits the uses to which it was habitually put, and thus lessens its interest, but also gives the wrong impression that the Scottish Parliaments were held there, and there only. The Scottish Parliaments were held wherever the King happened to be. If the King was in Edinburgh, they were held in Edinburgh, either at this hall in the Castle, or at the Tolbooth.

[66] Miss Warrender’s _Walks near Edinburgh_, p. 33 (footnote).