Edinburgh Painted by John Fulleylove; described by Rosaline Masson
CHAPTER XI
EDINBURGH TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW
Life holds not an hour that is better to live in: the past is a tale that is told, The future a sun-flecked shadow, alive and asleep, with a blessing in store. SWINBURNE.
In Edinburgh, at whatever other hour of the day the resident or tourist may let his mind dwell in the past, at one o’clock he will always be brought back to the present moment; for at one o’clock the gun goes off at the Castle, and horses and men and women that are gun-shy are greatly startled, and every one pulls out his watch. But, except precisely at one o’clock, it is as impossible to exist in Edinburgh without living in the past as it would be to walk along Princes Street without seeing the Castle. We are a little archaic in Edinburgh. Yet there are other things of the present that you may notice after you have set your watch to Greenwich time by the one-o’clock gun. Princes Street is gay with shop windows under awnings, with the big bow-windows of the Clubs, with many hotels; and now there are bigger and newer hotels to east and to west, at the railway stations. And Princes Street is full of a constant stream of traffic, plying in the wide street between the one broad pavement on the north side and the row of statues along the green sward and the blazing flower-beds in the beautiful gardens opposite: cable cars with noisy bells, motor cars, carriages, bicycles, electric broughams, station lorries, hansom cabs, and the crawling “char-a-bancs,” with their scarlet-coated drivers, picking up passengers for the Forth Bridge or Roslin. But still the north-east wind takes the liberty of blowing from the Forth among all these modern innovations, and whirling an unwary hat or a too-lightly-held newspaper high into the air.
As the wind is unchanged in temper, so are the natural features unchanged in beauty; and the views of the city, “from a’ the airts the wind can blaw,” are pictures to gladden the artist or the poet. There is the “Marmion view” from the south,--the view that Scott loved and Turner painted,--but with a denser massing of suburb than they saw, reaching right up to the furzy knoll where Marmion stood. Here is the Castle in all its majesty, with the Grassmarket and Cowgate huddled picturesquely under its precipices, and the old dark descending spine of the High Street, with St. Giles’s open crown over the roofs, and then all the maze and glitter of a newer world, with its many domes and steeples, and the Forth beyond.
This is from the south; but, seen from the western roads and heights, the city is even more striking. As you drive to the Forth Bridge along the fine old coach road to Queensferry,--the very road along which Jonathan Oldbuck and his companion drove in their journey in _The Antiquary_--you pass an occasional farm-house with mellow stacks about it and a smoky throat, and you must remember you are “within a mile of Edinburgh toun,” where “Bonny Jockie, blythe and gay, kissed sweet Jenny making hay.” Here, turn your head and you will see the dark mass of Arthur’s Seat lifted up in the air, and upon its western wall the fretted outline of the city and the Castle Rock, seeming not painted but actually engraven like some old hieroglyphic.
To view Edinburgh from the north, you must journey over the Forth Bridge and look across from the Fife coast opposite. From the wooded “haughs” between Aberdour and Burntisland, Edinburgh, seen through a veil of green summer leaves across six miles of rough bright blue, seems painted in air, a scene of magic loveliness not to be excelled in all the idyllic world of romance or dream. In the nearest foreground the little island of Inchcolm with its tiny golden strand and ruined monastery; farther out to sea Inchkeith’s lighthouse ringed with a fringe of foam; and, beyond, a world of heights and hollows: Arthur’s Seat and the rigid uncurved slant of the Salisbury Crags, and the gabled intricacy of the Old Town, stretching from the hollow up to the black mass of rock on which the Castle glooms in mid-air, and then the New Town fantastically domed and steepled in the low foreground, and the white-columned summit of Calton Hill. Down at the water’s edge, between the Forth and this fairy show, are the dusky roofs and docks and shipping of Granton and Leith. Away to the west, the dwindling Forth is spanned by the arches of the monster bridge; and beyond it stretch the woods of Dalmeny and Abercorn. In the far east, where the Forth has widened to the sea, are the outjutting headlands, and on one of them is the curious cone called Berwick Law; while, behind all, for a background, the distant Pentlands slope to the south in softest purple.
Dear to the heart of the resident is the view seen as one comes down the Mound on a winter’s afternoon at sunset, when the Castle stands dark against the glorious red of the western sky, and Princes Street, her lamps and her windows all alight, looks like a jewelled necklace.
But of all views of Edinburgh the most mystically beautiful is that seen from the Calton Hill by night. The city is close about you; but in the darkness there is isolation. Across a gulf of impenetrable gloom there is spread a panorama of heights and depths, beaded by a myriad of lights, with those in the depths seeming to be reflected from those in the heights, like a starry sky seen in a deep pool. And, as you encircle the hill, you find always some new phantasy of light and gloom, until on the side towards the Firth there seems to be a stretch of flat black country garlanded with lights that dip and rise with every bend of the land down to the lip of the sea; and all round the coast every
point and pier and headland is studded with coloured sea-lights; and far out in the measureless mid-Firth flashes the great Eye of the revolving light of Inchkeith.
Brave the “sharp sops of sleet and snipand snaw,” and come to Edinburgh in winter, and you will find all the residents at home and busy: the Law Courts sitting; the University at work; a regiment, with khaki coverings to their kilts, quartered at the Castle, and tramping through the town in rhythm to the tune of the pipes; and all the gaiety of balls and dinners and theatres in the evening hours. Risk the keen blast of the east wind, and come to Edinburgh in April, and you will be able to attend the Graduation in Arts at the M‘Ewan Hall,--in the character of an honorary graduate if you deserve it. Come in May, and you will find the streets thronged with black-coated ministers and elders from every parish in Scotland; for the Assemblies will be sitting, and the Lord High Commissioner will be holding semi-royal state at Holyrood. Come in autumn, as you always will; and it will be to find the long rows of stately stone dwellings left tenantless, and their appalling regularity and monotony rendered even more appalling by the brown paper that fills the windows, and by the boarding that is up before the doors. But the shop windows will be full of tartans for your edification, and you will find your cabman able to tell you all you want to know. At any other season Edinburgh is a hospitable city, and it is growing every day a more cosmopolitan one. English residents have altered national ways; ruthless hands are tearing down our beautiful old stone houses, and building tenements in their places; and soon--too soon--all Scottish traits will be lost.
But the Castle Rock cannot be levelled. It was there, in the mist and the rain, before Edinburgh began; and it will be there, in the mist and the rain, when Edinburgh has ceased to be.
Index
Abbotsford, 138, 141, 145
Abercromby, George (Lord), 134
Adamson, Bishop (1584), 55
Advocates’ Close, 72, 73
Albany, Duke of, brother of James III., 13-14
Alexander II., 46
Alexander III., 9, 17, 24
Allan, Sir William, 138, 149
Alnwick Castle, 6
Anchor Close, 75, and _note_
Angus, Earl of, called “Archibald Bell-the-Cat,” 48, 49
Angus, Earl of, 15 _note_, 50, 88
Anne of Denmark, wife of James VI., 71, 102
Argyle, Marquis of, 15-16, 80
Arran, Earl of, 88, 89
Arthur’s Seat, 23, 27, 36, 38, 165
Ashestiel, 138
Assembly Rooms (Old Edinburgh), 73, 74, 75
Auchinleck, Lord, his caustic saying concerning Dr. Johnson, 110
Ayala, Don Pedro de, ambassador from Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain to the Court of James IV., 28, 29
Aytoun, Professor, 149
Bailie Fyfe’s Close, 74, 77
Baillie, Joanna, 138
Balcarres, Countess of. _See_ Hyndford’s Close
Balfour, Dr., grandfather of R. L. Stevenson, 157
Bannatyne Club, the, 142
“Banner of Blue,” 14
Barbauld, Mrs., 134
Barnard, Lady Anne (_née_ Lindsay), 62, 77
Bastian, servant of Mary, Queen of Scots, 40
Baxter’s Close, 70
Beaton, Cardinal, 50, 76
Beaton, James, Archbishop of Glasgow, 88-89
Beattie, the poet, 108
Beaufort, Jane, wife of James I., 11-12, 25-26
“Begbie murder,” the, 77
Belches of Invermay, Sir John and Lady Jane, and their daughter, Scott’s first love, 133
“Bell-the-Cat.” _See_ Angus
Bell’s Wynd, 73, 74
Bernham, David de, Norman Bishop of St. Andrews (1243), 46
“Bible Close,” 78
Bishops of Edinburgh (Established Episcopalian), 54
Bishop’s Palace. _See_ Whitehorse Close
Black, Adam, 151
Black, Professor, 120
Blackford Hill, 130, 159
Blackfriars Street, formerly Wynd, 40, 76, 88, 109
Blackie, Professor, 152
_Blackwood’s Magazine_, 149
Blair, Dr., 108
Borthwick, Master Gunner to James IV., 27
Boswell, Sir Alexander, his verses on Miss Nicky Murray, 73-74, 138
Boswell, James, 68, 100, 108-109, 110
Boswell, Mrs., 108-109
Bothwell, Adam, Bishop of Orkney, 40, 71-72
Bothwell, Earl of, 39, 40, 41, 66, 71
“Bow-head Saints,” the, 96-97
Boyd, George. _See_ Mound
Boyd’s Close, 82 _note_, 107-108
Braid Hills, the, 159
Brantôme, Sieur de, 36, 37
Brewster, Sir David, 151
Bristo Street, 113
Brodie’s Close, 70
Brougham, Lord, 150, 151
Brown, George, builder of George Square and Brown Square, 122
Brown, Dr. John, 151
Brown, Dr. Thomas, 149
Brown Square, 122
Bruce, King Robert the, 9, 10, 18, 42, 83
Bruce, Marjory, daughter of King Robert the Bruce, 42
Buchan, Earl of, 108
Buchanan, George, 50, 91, 92-93
Burnet, Miss, 112, 114
Burns, Robert, lodges in Baxter’s Close, 70, 75; his triumphant reception in Edinburgh, 111-113; meeting with Scott, 113; “Clarinda and Sylvander,” 113-114; _Edina, Scotia’s darling seat_, 114-115
Burton, Dr. John Hill, 151
Byers’ Close, 71-73, and 71 _note_
Byers of Coates, John, 71 _note_
Caledonian Hunt, the, and Burns’s Poems, 112-113
Calton Hill, 46; the view from, 166
Campbell, Thomas, 137, 149
Candlish, Dr., 150
Canongate, the, 24, 62, 63, 64, 67, 78-82, 100, 101, 105, 106, 124
Cant’s Close, 76
Carberry Hill, battle of, 41, 66
Carey, Sir Robert, 41-42
Carlyle, Dr., of Inveresk, 107
Carlyle, Thomas, 150, 151
Carnegie, Andrew, 154
“Castell of Maydens,” 5
Castle, the, 3-21; story of Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret, 5-8; Queen Margaret’s Chapel in, 5, 7, 9, 15, 16; “Frank’s Escalade,” 10; besieged by Henry IV. of England, 11; the “Black Dinner” (1440), 12-13, 17; story of the Duke of Albany, 13-14; James VI. born in the Palace of, 15; Jacobites imprisoned in, 16; the Great Hall of, 16-18, 155; the Regalia, 18-20, 140; “Mons Meg,” 20-21, 144; mentions of, 23, 24, 26, 69, 86, 120; the “one-o’clock gun,” 163, 164, 165, 166, 167, 168
Castle Street, 135, 136, 137 _note_, 138, 139, 142, 143, 145
Cathedral (St. Giles’s). _See_ St. Giles, Church of St. Mary, 71 _note_, 154
Chalmers, Dr., 150
_Chambers’s Edinburgh Journal_, 149
Chambers, Robert, 19, and _note_, 20, 54, 72, 73, 74, 81, 119-121, 129; his writings, and his friendship with Scott, 149
Chambers, William, 61, 155
Charles I., 18, 41, 42, 43, 54, 82, 94
Charles II., 19, 43, 58, 65, 95
Charles Edward Stuart (Prince Charlie), 43-44, 99, 130, 131 _note_
Chepman, Walter, earliest Scottish printer, 27, 47, 48, 49 _note_
Chiesley of Dalry, 153
Christison, Sir Robert, 151
“Christopher North.” _See_ Wilson
Church of St. Giles. _See_ St. Giles
“Clarinda” (Mrs. M‘Lehose), 113-114
Claverhouse, Graham of, 126, 138
“Cleanse the Causeway,” 66, 88-89, 127
Clerks of Penicuik, the, 98, 132, 133, 136, 138
Closes and Wynds of Edinburgh, 62-82, 88, 95-96, 99, 100, 105, 106, 108, 109, 120, 129
Coalstoun, Lord, story of, 72-73
Coates House, 71 _note_
Cockburn, Lord, 149, 150
Cockburn, Mrs., 100
Colinton, 156, 157, 158, 160, 162
College Wynd, 106, 120, 129
Combe, George, 151
Comely Bank, 150
Constable, Thomas, 141
Court of Session, 85
Covenanters, the, 59, 96, 160
Cowgate, the, 40, 64, 87, 88, 90, 91, 95, 96, 120, 164
Crabbe, George, 138, 143
Craig, Lord, 113
Craigie, Lord President, 124
Craigmillar, 144 _note_
Craigmillar Quarry, 122
Crail, 35
Cranstoun, George (Lord Corehouse), 134
Cranstoun, Miss, 134, 135
Creech’s Land, 105
“Crochallan Fencibles,” 75, 112
Cromwell, Oliver, banquets in the Hall of the Castle, 18; stays at Moray House, 79-80; enters Edinburgh after the battle of Dunbar, 58
Cross, the City, 31, 43, 58, 98, 132, 141
Cullen Professor, 120
Cunningham, Alison, 157
Cunningham, Dr., 150
Cunyie House (the Scottish Mint), 76
Currie, 161
Dalkeith, 30, 144
Dalmeny, the woods of, 166
Darnley, Earl of, 38-39, 39-40, 42, 76
David I., 23-24, 46
David II., and David’s Tower in the Castle, 10
Dawney Douglas’s Tavern, 75, 112
Deacon Brodie. _See_ Brodie’s Close
Defoe, 104-105
“Delta.” _See_ Moir
De Quincey, 150
Dick of Prestonfield, Sir Alexander, 109
Dickens, Charles, 151
Disruption, the, 150-151
Don of Newton, Sir Alexander, 138
Donald Bane, 7
Douglas, Duchess of, 108
Douglas, Duke of, 125
Douglas, Gavin, 27; account of, 48-50, 87-89, 148
Douglas, Lady Jane, 70
Dowie’s Tavern, 112
Drummond of Hawthornden, 29, 94, 104
Drummond, Lord Provost, 123
Drummond Place, 125, 126, 152
Drummore, Lord, 124-125
Drumsheugh, the ancient forest of, 23, 31, 46
Duddingston, 100
Dunbar, William, 28, 29, 31, 87
Dundas, Sir Laurence, 125
Dundonald, Earl of, 70
Dunfermline, 4, 6, 8, 155
Edgar, second son of Malcolm Canmore, 7
Edinburgh made an Episcopal See (1633), 54
_Edinburgh Courant_, 104
_Edinburgh Review_, 137 and _note_, 149
Edward I. of England, 9, 24, 46, 50
Edward II. of England, 25, 46
Edward “the Confessor,” 5
Eglintoun, Susanna, Countess of, 75, 98-100
Eglintoun, Lord, 98-99
Elizabeth, Queen of England, 42
Elliott of Minto, Miss Jeanie, 122
Erskine, friend of Scott, 134
Erskine, Henry, Advocate, 108
“Ettrick Shepherd,” the. _See_ Hogg
Fairmilehead, 161
Falkland, 11, 35
Fergusson, Professor, 113, 134
Fergusson, Robert, 112
Ferrier, the family of, 112, 114
Ferrier, Miss, 149
Findlay, John Ritchie, 154
Firth of Forth. _See_ Forth
Fleming of Cumbernauld, Sir Malcolm, 12, 13
Flodden, battle of, 31-33, 35, 49 _note_; the Flodden Wall, 62, 87
Forbes of Pitsligo, Sir William, and Burns, 112
Forbes of Pitsligo, Sir William, and Scott, 133, 145
Forbes, William, first Established Episcopal Bishop of Edinburgh (1634), 54
“Fore-stairs,” 65, 66, 76
Forth (river, and Firth of), 3-4, 5, 7, 8, 21, 35, 36, 46, 155, 159, 165, 166, 167
Forth Bridge, the, 4, 155, 164, 165, 166
Fortune’s Tavern, 75-76
Franklin, Benjamin, 107
Gay, John, 81, 105-106
General’s Entry, 113
George I., 16
George III., 98, 99, 126
George IV., 141, 142
George Square, 122, 130, 131
George Street, 135, 139, 150, 157
Glammis, Lady, 14-15, and _note_
Glenlee, Lord, 122
“Golden Charter,” 14
Goldsmith, Oliver, 73, 106
Goodsir, Professor John, 151
“Goose Pie, the,” 98
Gordon, Duchess of, 76-77, 112
Gordon of Haddo, Sir John, 58
Grange, Lord, 74
Granton, 150, 166
Grassmarket, the, 15, 97, 120, 164
Gray of Pittendrum, Lord, and Lady, 68-69, and _note_
Great King Street, 150
Greyfriars’ Church and Churchyard, 51, 96, 133
Gustavus Vasa, Prince, 141
Guthrie, Dr., 150
Haddington, first Earl of (“Tam o’ the Cowgate”), 90-92
“Haddo’s Hole,” in St. Giles’s, 58, 59
Hailes, Lord, 108
Hall, the Rev. Mr., Presbyterian divine (1603), 53
Hamilton, Sir William, 150
Hart, Andro, 94
Hawthornden, 94, 109, 159
Hay, James, story of, 96
“Heart of Midlothian,” 63. _See also_ Tolbooth
Henry III. of England, 9
Henry IV. of England, 11
Henry VII. of England, 30
Henry VIII. of England, 35, 37, 46, 50
Henry, Prince, eldest son of James VI., 41
Heriot, George, 90-91
Heriot Row, 156, 157
High School, the (in Old Edinburgh), 71, 92, 130
High Street, the, 62, 76, 77, 80, 88, 90, 94, 96, 105, 108, 123, 124, 127, 141, 164
“Highland Lady,” the, 153
Hogg, James (the “Ettrick Shepherd”), 136-137, 149, 160
Holbein, his miniature portrait of James IV., 29
Holyrood, 18, 22-44, 47, 53, 62, 63, 64, 65, 70, 76, 84, 91, 109, 120, 144, 167; legend of the founding of the Abbey, 23; Abbey burnt by Edward II., 25; in reign of James IV., 26-33; in reign of James V., 33-35; in reign of Queen Mary, 35-41; Charles I. christened at, 41; and crowned at, 42; rebuilt by Charles II., 43; Abbey Church restored by James VII., 43; Prince Charlie at, 43-44; the Abbey desecrated and destroyed, 44
Home, John, 107
Hope, Sir Thomas, King’s Advocate, 34, 95
Homer, Francis, 52
Hume, David, 68, 71, 100-101, 109, 125
Hunter’s Tryst, 160
Huntly, Earl of, 39
Hyndford’s Close, 76, 77
Inchcolm, 165
Inchkeith, 109, 165
Irving, John, 134
Isles, Lord of the, story of, in 1429, 25-26
Jack’s Land, 101
Jacobites imprisoned in the Castle, 16
James I., 11, 12, 22, 26, 84
James II., 17, 26, 85, 86
James III., 14, 26, 68, 85
James IV., 16, 19, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, and _note_, 37, 38, 42, 49 _note_, 66, 87
James V., 14, 18, 33, 35, 85, 87, 88, 89
James VI., 15, 18, 41-42, 43, 52, 53, 71, 85, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 102-103, 104, 124
James VII., 43, 95
James’s Court, 68, 70, 101, 108, 125
Jeffrey, Lord, 131-132, 137, and _note_, 138, 149, 150
“Jenny Geddes,” 45, 54-58, 59
“Jock o’ Sklates.” _See_ Mar, Earl of
Jonson, Ben, 104
Johnson, Dr., 68, 82 _note_, 100, 107-109, 110, 111
Kames, Lord, 108
Keith of Ravelston, Mrs., 148
Kemp, architect of the Scott Monument, 154 _note_
Kennedy, Bishop, 85-86
Kennedy, Sir Archibald, 98
Kincaid, Alexander, publisher, 107
Kingsley, Charles, 151
Kirkaldy of Grange, 52
Knox, John, 38, 49 _note_, 50, 51, and _note_, 52, 55, 61; his house, 65, 77, 90, and _note_; his grave, 65, 149
Krames, the, 53
Lady Stair’s Close, 68-70, 105
“Laigh Council House,” the, 91
Laing, David, 106, 149
Laing, Malcolm, 134
Lands, the (in Old Edinburgh), 62-82, 85, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 95, 99, 100, 101, 103, 105, 107, 108, 112, 113
Lang Dykes (_called also_ Lang Gait), 121, 126
Lasswade, Scott’s cottage at, 136
Laud, Archbishop, his Service-Book, 55, and _note_, 56
Lauder, 48
Lauder of Blyth, Sir Alexander, 49
Lawnmarket, the, 62, 63, 68, 69, 127
Leith, 13, 14, 20, 26, 27, 34, 36, 97, 104, 142, 166
Leslie, Alexander, the Covenanting General, 18
Leven, Earl of, 76
Libberton’s Wynd, 112
Library, Advocates’, 96, 134; Public, 95, 154; Signet, 91
Lindores, Abbey Church of, 52
Lindsay, Earl of, 41
Lindsay, Sir David, 34, 89
Linlithgow, 35
Lister, Lord, 151-152
Lockhart of Carnwath, George, 122
Lockhart, John Gibson, 140, 141, 144, 149
“Logy, Maister Leonard,” 33 _note_
Lord of the Isles. _See_ Isles
Lorn, Lord (1650), 80
Loudoun, Earl of, 69
Luckenbooths, the, 105
Macaulay, Lord, 151
M‘Crie, Thomas, 149
M‘Ewan, William, 154
M‘Ewan Hall, the, 154, 167
Mackenzie, Sir George, 76, 95-96
Mackenzie, Henry (“the Man of Feeling”), 149
Maclean, of Torloisk, Mrs., and her daughters, 138
Macmorran, Bailie, 71
Madeleine, first wife of James V., 34, 44, 94
Malcolm Canmore, 4, 5-8, 35, 126, 155
Mansfield, Earl of, 74
Mar, Earl of, 18; Earl of Mar called “Jock o’ Sklates,” 92
Margaret, Saint, Queen of Scotland, second wife of Malcolm Canmore, 5-8, 9, 15, 16, 24, 126, 155
Margaret, daughter of Henry III. of England, betrothed to Alexander III., 9
Margaret of Denmark, wife of James III., 26
Margaret Tudor, wife of James IV., 30, 35, 37, 50, 66, 87
“Marmion view,” the, 164
Mary of Gueldres, wife of James II., 26, 86
Mary of Lorraine (Mary of Guise), second wife of James V., and Regent of Scotland, 35, 50, 51, 89-90
Mary, Queen of Scots, 5, 8, 15, 18, 35-41, 50, 52, 66, 76, 84, 143
Maud, daughter of Malcolm Canmore and Queen Margaret, 126
Maxwell of Monreith, Lady, and her daughters, 76-77
Meadows, the, 122
Melrose, dwelling of the Abbots of, 76, 95
Melville, Andrew, 93
Menzies, William, anecdote concerning Scott and son of, 138
Merchiston Castle, 93, 153
Miller, Hugh, 151
Mint, the Scottish. _See_ Cunyie House
Moir, Dr. (“Delta”), 150
Monboddo, Lord, 112
“Mons Meg,” 20-21, 144
Montrose, Marquis of, 59, 69, 80, and _note_
Moray House, account of, 79-80
Morocco Close, 78
Mound, the, formation of, 127; and Sir Walter Scott, 137, 139; view from, 166
Munro, Professor, 120
Murray, Dr. Alexander, 149
Murray of Auchtertyre, Patrick, 134
Murray of Broughton, 131, and _note_
Murray of Henderland, Mrs., 108
Murray, Miss Nicky, 74, 77
Murray of Simprim, Patrick, 134
Murray, manager of the Theatre Royal, 144
Myllar, Andro, 27
Mylne’s Court, 68
Mylne, John, Royal Master Mason, 43
Mylne, Robert, Royal Master Mason, 68
Mylne, Robert, F.R.S., Royal Master Mason, account of, 74-75, and _note_
Nairne, Baroness, 100, 148
Nairne Lodge, 100
Napier of Merchiston, 93
National Portrait Gallery, 154
Neaves, Lord, 150
Nelson, Thomas, 155
Netherbow Port, the, 62, 63
Newark, Lord, Covenanting General, 98
Niddry’s Wynd, 74
Nor’ Loch, 26, 51, 69, 120, 124, 126-127
North Bridge, the, 123, 137
Old Assembly Close, 73
“Old Kirk, the” (in St. Giles’s), 51
Oliphants of Gask, the, 100, 148
“Outer Tolbooth,” the, 49 _note_
Panmure’s Close, 100
Paoli, the Corsican, 68
Parliament House, 65, 72, 81, 85, 134, 142, 144
Paterson, John, Bishop of Edinburgh, 82
Pembroke, Earl of (Shakespeare’s friend), 103
Pentlands, the, 156, 159, 161, 166
Philosophical Institution, the, and its first Presidents and Lecturers, 151
Playfair, Lyon (Lord Playfair), 151
Poker Club, the, 75, 76, 120
Pope Innocent IV. (and St. Margaret), 8
Pope Julius II. (and James IV)., 19
Potterrow, 79, 100, 113, 130
Preston Aisle, the (in St. Giles’s), 47
Preston of Gorton, William, 47
Priestfield (now Prestonfield), 27, 109
Primrose, James, Viscount, 69
Princes Street, 124, 125, 126, 132, 142, 153, 154, 157, 163, 164, 166
Printing in Edinburgh in the reign of James IV., 27
Queen Street, 143, 152, 154, 157
Queensberry, Duchess of (“Kitty”), 81, 105
Queensberry House, 79; tragedy in, 80-81
Queensberry, Marquis of, 81
Queensferry Road, view of Edinburgh from, 165
Raeburn, Sir Henry, 144, 149
Ramsay, Allan (the poet), 74, 97-98, 99, 105-106, 107, 160
Ramsay, Allan (the artist), 98, 108
Ramsay, Dean, 150
Ramsay, General, 98
Randolph of Strathdon, Sir Thomas, 10
Regalia, the Scottish, 18-20, 140, 144
Riccio, David, 15, 38-39
Richard II. of England, 46
Riddle’s Close, 70, 101
Robertson, Principal, 108, 109
Ronsard (the French poet), 34
Rose, Abernethy, Bishop of Edinburgh, 54
Rosebery, the Earl of, 68
Rosehaugh Close, 95-96
Roslin, Boswell takes Dr. Johnson to, 109; Scott takes Wordsworth to, 136, 164
Ross, the Lords, and Ross House, 122
Rothesay, the Duke of, eldest son of Robert III., 11
Royal Scottish Academy, 142
Royal Scottish Society, 142
Rullion Green, battle of, 59, 160
Ruskin, John, 151
Russel, Alexander, 151
Ruthven, Earl of, 41
St. Andrew’s Church in George Street, 150
St. Andrew Square, 124, 125
St. Cecilia’s Hall, 74-75
St. David Street, 125, 145
St. Giles, Church of, 24, 27, 45-61, 63, 65, 72, 86, 87, 94, 120, 144, 155, 164
St. John Street, 107
Salamander Land, 105
Salisbury Crags, 26, 165
Sandilands’ Close, 85
Scott, Anne, 145
Scott, General, 125-126, 152
Scott, Sir Gilbert, 154
Scott of Harden, Hugh, 135
Scott, Lady, wife of Sir Walter Scott, 135, 137; death of, 145
Scott, Mr. and Mrs., parents of Sir Walter, 131
Scott, Sophia, 140
Scott, Sir Walter, 11, 20, 65, 69-70, 113, 129-146, 147, 160; his homes in and near Edinburgh, 135-139, 141, 143, 145; his later places of residence, 145; his circle of friends, 148-150; the Scott Monument, 153-154
Scottish Regalia. _See_ Regalia
Scougall, John, artist, 73
“Seven Sisters of Borthwick,” 20, 27
Simpson, Sir James Y., 151
Shakespeare, 5; was he in Edinburgh? 103
Shandwick Place, 145
Sharpe, Kirkpatrick, 138, 149
Shoemaker’s Land, 78
Six Feet Club, 160
Skelton, John, 151
Skene of Rubislaw, 135, 145
Skene, W. F., 151
Smith, Adam, 100
Smith, Alexander, 151
Smith, Sydney, 138
Smollett, Tobias, 107
Solway Moss, battle of, 35
South Gray’s Close, 76
Spottiswoode, Archbishop, 56
Stair, the Earl of, 69
Stair, Lady, and Lady Stair’s Close, 68-70
Stamp Office Close, 75-76, 99
Steele, Richard, 105
Stevenson, Robert Louis, 77, 78, 156-162
Stewart, Dugald, 149
Strichen’s Close, 76, 95
Stuart, Sir John (the “Black Knight of Lorn”), 12
Swanston, 156, 159-160, 161
Syme, Professor, 151
Tait, Professor, 151
“Tam o’ the Cowgate.” _See_ Haddington, Earl of
Taylor, “the Water Poet,” 64, 104
Telfer, Mrs., of Scotstoun, 107
Tercentenary of the University, 152
Thackeray, 151
Thomson, Thomas, legal antiquary, 133
Tinwald, Lord Justice Clerk, 124
“Tolbooth Kirk, the” (in St. Giles’s), 51 _note_
Tolbooth, the, 53, 59, 63, 65, 69, 80, 155 _note_
Topham, Captain, 73, 109-111
Trollope, Anthony, 151
Tron Church, the, 132
“Tulzie,” a, 66
Turgot, Bishop, 6, 7, 8
Tweeddale Close, 77
Tytlers of Woodhouselee, the, 136
Union, the (1707), 64, 76; Treaty of, 80, 81
Union, the Students’ University, 154
United Free Assembly Hall, 90
University, the, 85, 92, 109, 111, 120, 151, 152, 154, 159, 167
Vasa, Prince Gustavus, and the Baron Polier, 141
Victoria, Queen, her first visit to Edinburgh (1842), 147, 150
Volunteers, the Scottish Light Horse, 135
Walker Street, 145
Wallace, Sir William, 9, 24
Warbeck, Perkin, at the Court of James IV., 28
Watt, the Republican, 134
Webber, his attempt on Scott’s life, 139
Weir, Major, and his sister Grisel, 96-97
West Bow, 97
West Port, 92
Whiteford, Sir John, 112
Whiteford, Miss, 114
Whitehorse Close, 54, 81-82, and 82 _note_
Whitehorse Inn. _See_ Boyd’s Close
Wilson, Professor (“Christopher North”), 149
Wishart, Chaplain to Montrose, and afterward Bishop of Edinburgh, 59
Wood, Sir Andrew, 27-28
Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy visit Scott in 1803, 136
World’s End Close, 76
Wynds (of Edinburgh). _See_ Closes
THE END
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FOOTNOTES:
[1] Now St. Saviour’s.
[2] Groom of the Chamber.
[3] She was a sister of the Earl of Angus, and had married, first, Lord Glammis, and, second, Archibald Campbell of Skipness.
[4] Chambers’s _Walks in Edinburgh_, p. 50.
[5] _Ibid._ p. 49.
[6] Paragon.
[7] Now Prestonfield.
[8] Miss Warrender’s _Walks near Edinburgh_. Edinburgh: David Douglas.
[9] _William Dunbar_, by Oliphant Smeaton, “Famous Scots Series.” Edinburgh: Oliphant, Anderson, and Ferrier.
[10] Bergenroth, _Simancas Papus_, vol. i. p. 169. Quoted in _Early Travellers in Scotland_, edited by Professor Hume Brown. Edinburgh: David Douglas.
[11] _Ibid._
[12] Scott’s _Tales of a Grandfather_.
[13] W. E. Aytoun, _Lays of the Cavaliers_.
[14] _Burgh Records of Edinburgh_ (1403-1528), p. 144.
[15] In September of that year “Maister Leonard Logy” was pensioned by James IV. for his “diligent and grate labour” in “bigging of the palace beside the Abbey of the Holy Croce.”
[16] Sir David Lindsay.
[17] Henry Glassford Bell.
[18] From _Buchanan’s Detection_ (first Scots translation) quoted in _Mary, Queen of Scots_, by Robert S. Rait, p. 108.
[19] _Diurnal of Occurrents in Scotland_, quoted in _Mary, Queen of Scots_, by Robert S. Rait, pp. 120-121.
[20] R. S. Mylne’s _The King’s Master Masons_.
[21] Sir Walter Scott.
[22] _History of St. Giles’s, Edinburgh_, by the Very Rev. James Cameron Lees, D.D. W. and R. Chambers.
[23] Still called “The Albany Aisle.”
[24] Walter Chepman built a chapel of the Crucifixion in the lower part of the churchyard, endowing its chaplain for the welfare of the soul of King James and those who were slain with him at Flodden. This chapel was pulled down during John Knox’s ministry to form the “Outer Tolbooth” for the Lords of Session.
[25] _Burgh Records of Edinburgh_ (1403-1528), p. 144.
[26] At the end of his life, Knox preached within another division, designated “The Tolbooth Kirk.”
[27] Laud’s Service-Book.
[28] Gordon, _Hist. of Scots Affairs_ (Spalding Club), i. 7.
[29] _History of Scotland_, Professor Hume Brown, ii. 301.
[30] The stream of people pouring out of a church-door is called “the church skaling” in Scotland.
[31] _History of St. Giles’s, Edinburgh_, by the Very Rev. Dr. Cameron Lees. W. and R. Chambers.
[32] “Edinburgh’s Joy,” etc. Quoted in Dr. Hill Burton’s _History_, vii. 387.
[33] _History of St. Giles’s, Edinburgh_, by the Very Rev. Dr. Cameron Lees. W. and R. Chambers.
[34] Taylor’s _Pennyless Pilgrimage_.
[35] A “land” is a house of several storeys, usually consisting of different tenements.
[36] _Melville’s Memoirs_, p. 181.
[37] The initials G. S. for the wife suggest that the formal “Egidia” was softened, after the homely Scottish fashion, into “Gidy.”
[38] Scandals.
[39] Byers’ Close takes its name from John Byers of Coates, and the carved lintel, “I.B: M.B: 1611 Blissit be God in al his giftis,” now on the old family mansion, Coates House, within the grounds of St. Mary’s Cathedral, was removed from Byers’ Close.
[40] Wilson’s _Memorials_, ii. footnote to p. 12; and Grant’s _Old and New Edinburgh_, i. 223.
[41] Sir Alexander Boswell.
[42] This Robert Mylne (F.R.S.) was a great-grandson of the Robert Mylne mentioned on p. 68, and was tenth in the line of Scottish Royal Master Masons of that name. He afterwards settled in London, where he built Blackfriars Bridge over the Thames, was the successor of Wren as Superintendent of St. Paul’s Cathedral, and died in 1811.
[43] Only the entries to these closes have been suffered to remain.
Chambers’s _Traditions of Edinburgh_, p. 214.
[44] _Heroic Love_, James Graham, Marquis of Montrose.
[45] Chambers’s _Traditions of Edinburgh_, pp. 354-356.
[46] This inn must not be confused with Whitehorse Inn in Boyd’s Close (no longer existing), where Dr. Johnson went on his arrival in Edinburgh in 1773.
[47] Poets.
[48] Wilson’s _Memorials_, ii. 48.
[49] Tells tales.
[50] It is disputed now by some whether this house was really Knox’s.
[51] Professor Masson’s _Edinburgh Sketches and Memories_, p. 86. A. and C. Black.
[52] From Chambers’s _Collection of Scottish Songs and Ballads_. Authorship attributed to two young lady visitors to Edinburgh.
[53] See Chapter IV., p. 63.
[54] Grant’s _Old and New Edinburgh_.
[55] Chambers’s _Traditions of Edinburgh_, p. 13.
[56] Chambers’s _Traditions of Edinburgh_, p. 16.
[57] _Vide_ Provost Creech, quoted in Chambers’s _Traditions of Edinburgh_.
[58] Murray of Broughton, Prince Charlie’s secretary, who afterwards gave evidence against the Cause.
[59] Presently Jeffrey, in his slashing review of _Marmion_ in the _Edinburgh Review_, was to accuse Scott of want of patriotism. He dined with Scott that night at Castle Street, and found Scott as hospitable and kind as ever; but from that moment Scott broke off his connection with the _Review_.
[60] Lockhart’s _Life of Scott_. Edinburgh: Adam and Charles Black, 1884.
[61] Dalkeith Palace, the residence of the Dukes of Buccleuch, is held by them, as Craigmillar used to be held, on the understanding that the Sovereign may command it as a Royal residence.
[62] “I return no more.”
[63] The architect was Kemp, who, when a poor lad, trudging along the Selkirk road with his joiner’s tools on his back, had been given “a lift” by the kindly Sir Walter Scott as he drove by. Shortly after the erection of the monument Kemp was drowned.
[64] Truro Cathedral, and the great Roman Catholic Cathedral at Westminster, both built since, are larger.
[65] This is often erroneously called “Old Parliament Hall,” a name that not only limits the uses to which it was habitually put, and thus lessens its interest, but also gives the wrong impression that the Scottish Parliaments were held there, and there only. The Scottish Parliaments were held wherever the King happened to be. If the King was in Edinburgh, they were held in Edinburgh, either at this hall in the Castle, or at the Tolbooth.
[66] Miss Warrender’s _Walks near Edinburgh_, p. 33 (footnote).