Part 4

An egg that is not fertile on the sixth or seventh day will be perfectly clear and transparent; all such should be removed at once, as it is useless to allow them to remain. Another kind of egg often seen is a weak or imperfectly fertilized egg, and shows an irregularly-shaped blood vessel, which had started but lacked vitality enough to continue. Such an egg will not hatch and should also be removed from the nest or incubator. Frequently the germ in an egg will show life when tested on the seventh day, but lacks the vitality to carry it through, and when tested later will show dark, irregular blotches over the surface of the egg. These will not hatch, and should be taken out when noticed.

On the fourteenth day the little creature inside the egg begins to assume shape and show considerable life. It has increased many times in size since it was seen on the seventh day; the red veins have become more numerous and have spread over the entire surface, while the yolk is scarcely distinguishable from the other portions. The pupil of the eye has now become distinct, and the projection of the wings is clearly perceived. The absorption of the yolk has also commenced, and this will continue until the twenty-fourth day, when it will be nearly completed. The egg from this time on will rapidly grow opaque, and at the eighteenth or twentieth day is entirely so. On the twenty-fourth day the duckling is ready to make its way out of the shell, and in forty-eight hours after pipping the shell it will be entirely out.

NATURAL INCUBATION.

Hatching under the sitting hen (generally used for hatching ducks) is what is termed the natural process of incubation. The hatching of eggs by this means has always been followed, and no special skill is needed for success, provided the eggs are well fertilized with healthy germs. Many who raise ducks in large numbers, however, use almost exclusively artificial means; some use both the natural and the artificial, while others use the natural entirely.

Of the natural method we shall treat first: Hens of medium size of the American class, barred Plymouth Rocks and Wyandottes, are considered the best for sitting. Nine duck eggs are about the right number to place under a hen in early spring weather, but when the season is far advanced as many as thirteen are used. The hens should be provided with large, roomy nests, and slatted fronts that can be removed and replaced easily when the hens are fed and watered. The nesting material should be of hay or straw, and the nest should be slightly concaved; in the bottom place a little finely cut hay.

Before the hen is put on the eggs she should be thoroughly dusted with insecticides; the nest also should have a good dusting of the same. Both hen and nest should undergo a thorough dusting several times during the process of hatching as a safeguard against lice. When the ducklings are hatched they should also have their share of the insecticides before they are given to the hen. When a large number of sitting hens are used for hatching, as many as possible should be set at one time, and the ducklings raised in brooders. Hatching with hens may be done on a large scale and the young brooded artificially. As many as five hundred sitting hens are used on some farms for hatching ducks. They are set in small houses or rooms with the nests around the sides in tiers, each nest having its own lattice door. Each day, in the morning, the hens are taken from their nests and fed and watered on the floor of the room. They are taken down in limited numbers, sections, as it were, at a time, and after they have had the food, drink, and a little exercise they are placed back on the nests and another section is fed and watered.

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION.

The subject of artificial incubation has engaged the attention of the civilized world for generations past; the method has done wonders for the poultry industry and has opened up the pathways to fortunes that might otherwise never have been made. The science of incubation and brooding has been developed wonderfully in this country during the last quarter of a century, and what seemed almost an impossibility then has indeed become a certainty now. There are many thousands of chicks and ducklings hatched by artificial means each year, and the numbers of good machines now being manufactured in this country at low prices make poultry raising a business that almost anyone with a limited capital may profitably engage in. The mission of an incubator is to supplant the sitting hen, and make it possible to hatch a large number of chicks at a minimum amount of cost and labor. That this can be done is proved each day.

For artificial incubation, have a room with a temperature as nearly uniform as possible. Balance the beat in the machines, or in other words, see that the heat is uniform at both ends, and, in fact, all over them. See that each is running steadily before placing the eggs in it, as there is a great deal in starting right. The machines should be run at a temperature of 102° for the first three weeks, and 103° the last week. The eggs should be turned twice each day at regular periods. Introduce a pan of water from the fifteenth to the twenty-second day, no matter what the location of the machine, whether in a damp cellar or in a dry room overhead, in a moist atmosphere near the seashore or in a dry one at an altitude in the country. The temperature may go as high as 101° just previous to and while hatching without injury. Place the glass on a live egg after the animal heat rises, which will be when the circulation begins. This will be perceptible in good eggs the fourteenth and fifteenth days.

Considerable weight has been put upon the ventilation question in incubators by manufacturers and operators, but it has been found that when the egg chamber is roomy, and the eggs are taken out and cooled twice each day, it is not of so much consequence. There is no doubt but that there must be some ventilation in the egg chamber, but from the experience and observation of the writer the value of the subject has been overestimated by many. Some machines have top ventilation, some bottom, and others both top and bottom, and there is seemingly no marked difference in the hatching.

When the ducklings are hatching, the broken egg shells should be removed once in every six or eight hours, so that they will not slip over the pipped eggs, as it would be sure death to the imprisoned ones. Occasionally a little bird is unable to free itself from the shell and needs help; the expert can readily detect when this is necessary. The one point to note in this connection is this: The egg just before hatching radiates a great deal of heat, while the duckling, when first out, being not unlike a little sponge, absorbs it, or in other words, the rapid evaporation which takes place generates cold; so that when the ducklings are out the machine should be gauged one degree higher.

When the ducklings are all out and dried off, the machine will run at least two degrees lower than when they were in the egg. Plenty of ventilation is needed in the machines while hatching. Keep the ducklings in the machine at least twenty-four hours after hatching, when they will be strong enough to be removed to the brooder. The heat in the brooder should be started twenty-four hours previous to use, so that it will be perfectly heated and ready for the ducklings when they are taken from the machine.

GEESE.

STANDARD BREEDS OF GEESE.

=Introduction.=--There are seven standard breeds of geese, as follows: Gray Toulouse, White Embden, Gray African, Brown Chinese, White Chinese, Gray Wild, and Colored Egyptian.

GRAY TOULOUSE GEESE.

=History.=--Gray Toulouse geese (fig. 29) are named for the city in France of that name, where they are extensively bred. In this country they are bred in large numbers by farmers and are fairly well thought of for market purposes. Their flesh is a trifle too coarse and flabby, when compared with some other geese, to be prized very highly for table purposes. They are termed a Christmas goose, as being later in maturing than the others they are just about right at the holiday time. They are fairly good layers, averaging about 40 eggs in a season.

=Description.=--Toulouse geese are more compact in shape than other geese, and are preferred by many for this reason. The head is rather large and short, and they have a comparatively short bill that is stout at the base; the neck is carried well up and is of medium length. They have a broad back of moderate length, which curves slightly from the neck to the tail; their breasts are broad and deep. The body of the Toulouse goose is moderate in length, broad, and very deep and compact, the more compact the better; and in birds in good condition the belly almost touches the ground. Their wings are large, strong, and fold nicely against the sides, and they have comparatively short tails, and stout thighs and shanks. In color of plumage they are a dull gray, without penciling. The head is dark gray and the neck of the same color, which shades to a lighter gray as it approaches the back; the back is of dark gray, while the breast is light gray. The body plumage is light gray, which grows lighter and becomes white on the belly; the white extends back .to and around the tail, covering the fluffy parts. The primaries of the wings are dark gray or brown; the secondaries are a shade darker than the primaries and the coverts are dark gray. The tail feathers are gray and white, the ends tipped with white. Their eyes are dark brown or hazel in color; their bills, shanks, toes, and webs are of deep reddish-orange color.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult goose, 20 pounds; young gander, 18 pounds, and young goose, 15 pounds.

WHITE EMBDEN GEESE.

=History.=--White Embden geese (fig. 30) are considered very practical birds for farmers, and pay well for their keeping. They are nice looking, of large size, tall and erect carriage,, and snow-white plumage. They originally came from Embden, in Westphalia, and have been bred in this country for many years.

=Description.=--The Embdens are not so prolific as the Brown Chinese or Toulouse, 20 eggs in a season being a good average for them. Their eggs are very large, white, and have a very thick, rough shell. In carriage they are very tall and erect, and have fine square bodies. They have rather large heads, medium-sized bill, and a long neck that is carried upright. Their backs are of medium length, and arch slightly from the neck to the tail; the breast is round and full, and the body is large, square, and very deep, and, like the Toulouse, almost touches the ground The wings are large and strong; tail short; thighs and shanks short and stout. Their eyes are bright blue; bills flesh color; and their shanks, toes, and webs are deep orange.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult goose, 18 pounds; young gander, 18 pounds, and young goose 10 pounds.

GRAY AFRICAN GEESE.

=History.=--Gray African geese (fig. 31) are by many raisers considered the most profitable of all geese to keep. They grow the heaviest in the shortest space of time, and are ready for market in ten weeks, weighing at that age between 8 and 10 pounds. They are very much like the Pekin duck in this respect, and as compared with other geese give the most satisfactory returns for the least labor and time spent in growing them. They are, according to standard weights, as heavy as the Toulouse and Embden, but specimens are not uncommon that exceed these weights by several pounds. They are first-class layers and average about 40 eggs in a season. This is considered as a low estimate for their egg production. For table purposes they are esteemed very highly, their flesh being fine and nicely flavored.

=Description.=--These geese have a large head, with a large knob, and a heavy dewlap under the throat. These and the Chinese geese are different from the others in the head, and are the only two breeds that have the knob on the head. The bill of the African is rather large and stout at the base, and their necks are long. Their backs are long and flat, breasts round and moderately full, and they have large, long, and upright bodies. The wings are large and strong, and are folded well against the body; the thighs are short and stout, and shanks of medium length. The knob is black and the dewlap of a gray color, while the plumage of the neck is light gray with a dark stripe running from the head to the body. The back is dark gray, the plumage of the breast is gray, and the underpart of body is light gray. The wings and tail are dark gray, and the thighs are light gray. The eyes are hazel or brown; bill, black; shanks, toes, and web are of dark-orange color.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult goose, 18 pounds; young gander, 10 pounds, and young goose, 14 pounds.

BROWN AND WHITE CHINESE GEESE.

=History.=--The smallest of the breeds of geese are the Chinese, averaging in weight from 6 to 7 pounds lighter than those previously named. Apparently their want of size has prevented them from becoming favorites with those who raise large numbers annually, but with those who keep a limited number they are found to be very practical. What they lack in size they gain in egg production, being the most prolific of all breeds of geese, averaging from 50 to 60 eggs a year. In size, aptitude to fatten, and ease of management they appear in no respect inferior to other geese, while the quality of flesh is decidedly superior.

=Description.=--They are exceedingly graceful in appearance, quite hardy, and the young mature early. There are two varieties of Chinese geese--the Brown (fig. 32) and the White. They have large heads, with large knob at base of a medium-length bill, and long, gracefully arched necks. The backs are medium in length, and the breast is round and full; body of medium size, round and plump; wings, large and strong; thighs, short and stout, and shanks of medium length.

The color of head of the Brown Chinese geese is brown; knob dark brown or black; neck light brown or grayish brown, with a dark stripe from the head down to the body. The body is dark brown, breast grayish brown, and the under parts are a shade lighter in color. The wings and tail are brown, and the thighs are grayish brown. The eyes are hazel or brown; bill dark brown or black; and shanks, toes, and webs are a dusky orange color.

The color of plumage of the White Chinese geese is pure white throughout, perfectly free from feathers of any other color. The knob and bill are orange color, as are also the shanks, toes, and web. The eyes are a deep leaden blue.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 14 pounds; adult goose, 12 pounds; young gander, 10 pounds, and young goose, 8 pounds.

GRAY WILD GEESE.

=History.=--Gray Wild geese (fig. 33) are among the best known of domestic geese, and are very generally bred throughout the entire country. They are among the most valuable and practical birds for goose raising, and are prized very highly for table purposes, besides being good layers, hardy, and easy to rear.

=Description.=--These geese have a rather small head, small bill, sharp at the point, and long, slender neck, snaky in appearance. The back is long and rather narrow, and is arched from neck to tail; breast, full and deep, and body long and somewhat slender. The wings are long, large, and powerful, and the thighs are rather short. The head of the Wild goose is black, with a white stripe nearly covering the side of the face; bill, black; neck, black; and back, dark gray.

The breast is light gray, which grows darker as it approaches the legs; the plumage of the underparts of the body from the legs to the tail is white.

The wings are dark gray; primaries dusky black, showing only a dark-gray color when the wing is folded; secondaries are brown, but of a lighter shade than the primaries. The tail feathers are glossy black, and the thighs are gray. The shanks, toes, and webs are black. The eyes are black.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 16 pounds; adult goose, 14 pounds; young gander, 12 pounds, and young goose, 10 pounds.

COLORED EGYPTIAN GEESE.

=History.=--The most beautiful of the breeds of geese are the colored Egyptians (fig. 34); they are purely ornamental, not having been bred in this country for any other purpose than the showroom. They are sometimes called the Nile Goose. This goose is tall and somewhat slender, which gives it an elegance of appearance not possessed by any other breed. It can generally be bred in confinement, but is of a most quarrelsome nature, and the male will fight to the death other males of the same species. The males must each be given a separate pen, and mated with the females; it is seldom that any two males can be kept in the same pen.

=Description.=--These geese have a medium-sized and rather long head, a bill of medium length, and a rather small neck. The back is narrow and slightly arched from the neck to the tail; breast, round; body, long, but somewhat small and slender. Their wings are large, and have instead of the ordinary hard knobs horny spurs about five-eighths of an inch long; the thighs are of medium length, and the shanks rather long. The color of the head is black and gray; the bill is purple or bluish red, and the eyes orange.

The neck and back are gray and black; the center of the breast is chestnut, and the balance is gray. The upper parts of the plumage of the body are gray and black, and the under parts are a pale yellow, penciled with black. The shoulders of the wings are white, with a narrow black stripe or bar. The tail feathers are glossy black; thighs, pale buff; shanks, toes, and webs, reddish yellow. The eyes are orange.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 15 pounds; adult goose, 12 pounds; young gander, 12 pounds, and young goose, 9 pounds.

MANAGEMENT OF GEESE.

Goose raising is not so extensively engaged in as duck raising, the conditions under which they can be successfully raised being almost entirely different from those necessary for successful duck raising. The duck, being smaller, can be raised in a more limited space than can the goose, the latter needing free range and water, while the former has been proved to do equally as well without water.

While the goose can not profitably be raised in as large numbers as the duck, still it can not justly be termed unprofitable. There are many places on a farm that are worthless for cultivation that could be utilized with excellent results for goose raising. Fields that have streams, branches, or unused springs on them could be turned to good advantage by making them into goose pastures. Many farmers are profiting by this and adding to their incomes annually. The care and attention necessary for raising geese are very small when compared with the returns, and the cost of food is also proportionately small in comparison with the cost of food used for other birds bred for market. A goose on range will gather the largest portion of its food, consisting of grasses, insects, and other animal and vegetable matter to be found in the fields and brooks.

The simplest kinds of houses are used for shelter; these should be built after the plans of those given for ducks, but should be proportionately of larger size to accommodate comfortably the number of birds to be kept. Geese are long-lived birds, some having been known to attain the age of 40 years, while birds of 15 and 20 years of age are not uncommon. They retain their laying and hatching qualities through life. Ganders should not be kept for breeding after 3 years of age; young ganders are more active and insure greater fertility of the eggs than old ones do; besides, ganders become more quarrelsome as age advances.

The feathers of geese are an important source of revenue and find a ready sale in the markets. A goose will average about 1 pound of feathers a year. The feathers should be plucked when there is no blood in the ends of the quills; this can be readily ascertained, as they will then leave the flesh without hard pulling. Almost all breeds of geese are good sitters and attentive mothers, and if left to themselves will make their nests, much as when wild, and hatch a large percentage of their eggs. But hens are now more frequently used for hatching goose eggs; as by taking the eggs from the goose when laid and giving them to hens to hatch, the goose will lay a greater number of eggs than if she were permitted to sit.

All breeds of geese, except perhaps the Egyptian, are to be recommended to farmers who keep a limited number in addition to other poultry and allow them the freedom of the farm, but when goose raising is to be more extensively engaged in, the African goose is to be especially commended. It is the quickest to mature, most prolific, and the easiest to handle of any of the varieties.

MATING AND SETTING.

In breeding African geese, mate two geese to one gander, and it will be still better if pairs are used to secure better fertility of the eggs. Those who contemplate raising geese should secure their stock in the fall, so that the birds may become accustomed to the place before the breeding season begins. The breeding stock should be at least 2 years old, and fully matured birds. When stock is purchased in the fall they should be turned out in a pasture, and no other food than what they gather themselves will be needed until the grass goes down. Their rations should then consist of equal parts by measure, bran, middlings, and corn meal, with 5 per cent of this bulk of beef scraps. They should be given a light feed of this ration in the morning, and at night they should be fed cracked corn. Ten per cent of the bulk of the daily ration should be green foods, steamed clover, and cooked vegetables.

The breeding season begins about February 1, though some geese will begin laying as early as December, then stop, and begin again the first of February. They make their own nests from the straw and litter on the floor of their houses, and will lay from 12 to 20 eggs before becoming broody. As soon as the goose shows an inclination to sit, remove her and place her in a dark box or small coop, and keep her there for two or three days with water for drink, but no food. Then she may be placed back in the yards and she will begin another laying of eggs. The first and second layings of eggs should be set under hens. After the goose lays the second laying she should be confined again, when she will lay a third laying. When she has laid the third laying she should be permitted to sit on them, instead of giving them to hens. A goose will lay from 10 to 15 eggs in each of the second and third layings.