Part 3

The plans of brooder houses, as given above, are for ducklings from the time they are taken from the machines until they are ready for the cold brooder, or growing house. The young ducklings, when taken from the nest or incubator, are very delicate and susceptible to the changes of the atmosphere; they must be kept very warm and free from chilling. The first three weeks of a duckling's life is the most critical period, and after that time the liabilities of loss are reduced to a very low rate--hardly five to the hundred. The front of brooders for young ducklings should be hung with strips of woolen cloth to keep in the warmth of the brooder. The greatest care should be given them at this period; the duck raisers really consider it the most important part of their work, and after a bird has passed the "critical age" they may be counted on for the market.

Usually the care of the ducklings at this age is given to the women. They are more careful of the wants of the youngsters and attend to the detail work religiously. A case is known of a single attendant living, as it were, in the brooder house with the ducklings. She began her work with the morning feed at 6 a. m., and until sundown, when the night's meal was given, she was with her charges. The cleanliness of the brooder and pen was carefully attended to and everything was done to promote the health and comfort of the youngsters. At night they were all in their brooders and as snug as it was possible for them to be. A single neglect in the starting of a duckling will result in loss to the raisers. System is the key to the situation, and there should be no deviation from it whatever.

The duckling goes from the warm brooder house to the cold brooder house. The latter house is planned in a way similar to the former, with the exception of the 30-inch brooders. When the birds are taken from the warm brooder house they are three weeks old and of sufficient age to withstand a cooler temperature. They do not need the extra heat of the warm house, and in it would not grow nearly so well. The size of pens in the growing house is larger, and the ducklings are not crowded so many in a pen. If the birds are to be raised in colonies of one hundred each, the accommodations should be ample for them. It has never been proved to be good policy to crowd the growing stock; it retards their growth and encourages disease.

The cold brooder house should have a system of heating if birds are to be raised for an early market. The same system of pipes used in the warm brooders should be run around the sides of the building, about 2 or 3 feet from the floor. This will give sufficient heat for the house and keep the birds comfortable. These pipes may be connected with the same heater used for running the warm brooder pipes. In the Northern States, in extremely cold weather, raisers also use the heating pipes in the warm brooder house in addition to the cold brooder pipes.

An excellent plan is shown in fig. 20 for the arrangement of the heater for connecting the pipes in the warm and cold double brooder house. It will be seen that the heater is placed in the center of the building; the warm brooder house is shown on the right and the cold brooder house with runs attached is shown on the left, and pipes, indicated by dotted lines, run in both directions. This is the most economical house to build and lessens the work in attending the stock. The room in the center of the building will be found very useful and is generally used as the feed room. The heater is in the cellar beneath this room. This plan is used by one of the largest and most successful raisers of ducks on Long Island, and it has his highest indorsement.

The building may be of any size, the plan being as successfully carried out on a large scale as on a small one. If a small building is used at first, it may be enlarged on either end to suit the growing business, and extended upward of 100 feet in either direction, thus making the building more than 200 feet in length. The heater must be considered, when put in, with this object in view. A heater capable of heating the 200-foot house can easily be regulated to heat one of 50 feet, but a heater that will heat properly only a 50-foot or 100-foot house would be insufficient to heat the larger one.

Another difference between the cold brooder house and the warm brooder house is that the former has outside runs attached. These runs are used for feeding and watering when the weather permits, instead of the feeding troughs inside the house. The ducks should be allowed the freedom of the outside runs as soon as the weather is suitable. Ducks like a life in the outer world, and they will grow more rapidly there than when they are confined to the house.

Ducklings are kept in the cold brooder house until they are six or seven weeks old, when they are transferred to large quarters known as growing houses. It is here that they are pushed for the market until they are 10 weeks old, when they are salable. There is no heat in the growing houses, which are used only as a means of shelter during the early spring months. When the weather is well advanced, the ducks seldom take to the houses at night; they prefer the outside and spend their nights on the ground. The growing houses should be abundantly ventilated, as too close an atmosphere will do more harm in a single night than if they had not been housed at all.

A Pekin duck at 10 weeks is quite large, weighing close to 4 pounds. It is quite as large as a full-grown duck of some of the other breeds. In the space of two or three weeks from the time the ducklings are placed in the growing houses they will be marketed at the weight of 4 to 5½ pounds each. This weight is easily obtained, and when reached the profitable time to sell has arrived, as they then command the best prices. Often a bird kept after this time loses in weight and becomes unprofitable. The growing houses are built after the plan of the breeding houses, only much smaller. They need not be more than 4 or 5 feet high in rear and 1 or 2 feet high in front. Such a house is shown in fig. 21. This and other houses shown in figs. 22 and 23 may be built singly or in rows, with 12-inch boards separating the runs.

SUPPLYING WATER.

As has been previously stated, water for bathing is not at all necessary for growing ducks, but a liberal supply for drinking is absolutely essential to their growth. The food of the duck is such as to require drink when eating, as it is comparatively dry and can not be eaten hurriedly as grain is. When feeding, always replenish the water troughs or fountains with pure, fresh water.

A duck when feeding will eat a small quantity and go to the water troughs, for drink, repeating this performance several times during the meal. Conveniences for supplying drinking water to breeding and growing ducks are varied, and almost any contrivance will answer the purpose. When small numbers of ducks are kept, the simplest method of supplying water is in wooden troughs. These may be built V-shape or with square bottoms. They are shown in figs. 24 and 25.

For smaller ducks, those kept in the warm brooder house, the fountain plan is to be preferred, as the youngsters can not get into the water and become wet or chilled. These fountains may be made of air-tight cans for the reservoir and a tin plate 2 inches larger in diameter than the can. A tomato can and an ordinary tin pie plate make an excellent fountain. Remove the top of the can and punch a small hole in the side about a quarter of an inch from the free top edge; fill the can with water and place it inverted on the plate. The water will run out until it reaches in the plate the level of the hole in the can. The plate will not overflow and water will be supplied automatically.

Some raisers use a pan--a pie plate, for instance--and place a stone several inches smaller in diameter than the pan in the center, leaving a margin for water around the edge.

When large numbers of birds are kept, it is of course necessary that a system for watering be adopted for saving labor. A practical system in use is where the water is supplied by 1-inch pipes and having a cock in each pen directly over the water trough. Fig. 26 shows a diagram drawing of this plan. The flow of the cocks is regulated by having the one in the first pen run very slowly and gradually increasing the flow of the water in each pen. Thus all the troughs will be full at the same time. The pipe should rest on top of the fencing about 2 feet high which divides the runs. This plan of watering can also be used in brooder houses to good advantage.

FEEDING.

The food of the duck is both vegetable and animal in nature. In the wild state it gathers its food from brooks and marshes, consisting of flag, grasses, small fishes, water insects, etc. When the birds are raised in confinement this diet must, in a measure, be imitated to get the most satisfactory results. The duck has no crop, the food passing directly from the throat to the gizzard, and as a consequence the food must be in a soft mushy state. Too much hard food, such as grain, does not agree with these birds and they can not thrive on it. While some raisers use a small allowance of grain others do not, and it has not been proved to be of any advantage to feed it. Soft food is their natural diet, together with grasses, vegetables, and animal food. The proper selection of the food is extremely important to secure the rapid growth of the duck, and the ingredients of the food must be such as will afford a well-balanced and substantial ration. As a whole, it may be said that the rations used by the largest duck raisers are essentially the same, differing only in the quantities used in the mixing. Investigations show the real values of the food to be the same for producing rapid growth and early development. The duckling grows twice as rapidly and is a much heavier eater than the chick, and to produce the best results its food must be such as will be easily assimilated. The various methods of feeding given in this bulletin are recommended for raising ducks successfully.

It costs from 6 to 12 cents a pound to raise a duck for market at ten weeks of age. The cost of feed is from 4½ to 5 cents a pound, and that of labor, etc., is from 4 to 8 cents a pound. It costs from $1.75 to $2.50 each to keep breeding ducks a year.

The three different methods of feeding ducks are as follows: (1) Feeding ducks for market (ten weeks old); (2) feeding young ducks to be kept as breeders; (3) feeding old ducks. The first method, for the sake of convenience and to explain more fully the composition of the rations, is subdivided into four parts, as follows.

(1) From time of hatching to five days old provide the following mixture: Cracker or bread crumbs and corn meal, equal parts by measure; hard boiled eggs, 15 per cent of the total bulk of crackers and meal; sand, 5 per cent of the total of crackers and meal. Mix with water or milk, and feed four times a day.

(2) From five to twenty days old, the following mixture: Wheat bran, two parts by measure; corn meal, one part; rolled oats, 50 per cent of this bulk; beef scraps, 5 per cent; sand, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per cent. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day.

(3) From twenty to forty-two days old, the following mixture: Wheat bran, two parts by measure; corn meal, one part; beef scraps, 5 per cent of this bulk; sand, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per cent. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day.

(4) From forty-two to seventy days old, the following mixture: Corn meal, two parts by measure; wheat bran, one part; beef scraps, 10 per cent of this bulk; coarse sand or grit, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per cent. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day.

The hours for feeding are 6 a. m., 10 a. m., 2 p. m., and 6 p. m.

Below is given another system of feeding ducks for marketing at ten weeks of age. This system is practically the same as the one given above, differing only in the ingredients used for the first two parts or until the duckling is twenty days old. The method given below is used successfully by one of the largest duck raisers on Long Island. It is divided into three parts, as follows:

(1) From time of hatching to seven days old, feed equal parts by measure, corn meal, wheat bran, and No. 2 grade flour, and 10 per cent of this bulk coarse sand. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day.

(2) From seven to fifty-six days old, feed equal parts by measure, corn meal, wheat bran, and No. 2 grade flour; 10 per cent of this bulk beef scraps; 10 per cent coarse sand, and 12½ per cent green foods (green rye, oats, clover, etc.). Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day.

(3) From fifty-six to seventy days old, feed two parts by measure. Corn meal; one part wheat bran; one part No. 2 grade flour; 12½ per cent of this bulk beef scraps; 10 per cent coarse sand; 12½ percent green food. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed three times a day--morning, noon, and night. Give last feed an hour before sundown.

When ducks are raised for breeders they are fed differently from those intended for market. They are not forced so much as are the latter, and less fattening food is given them. The corn meal and beef scraps are reduced to one-half the quantity used in the above rations. The following is an excellent ration: Equal parts corn meal, wheat bran, green food, 5 per cent beef scraps, and 5 per cent coarse sand or grit.

A ration for breeding (laying) ducks is recommended as follows: Fifty per cent, by measure, corn meal; 15 per cent wheat bran; 15 per cent green foods (cooked vegetables, such as potatoes, turnips, etc.); 12 per cent beef scraps, and 8 per cent coarse sand or grit. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed twice a day, morning and night. After the breeding season is over and the ducks have stopped laying they are changed from this to the equal-parts ration, as given above for ducklings from seven to fifty-six days old.

MIXING FEED.

The feeding stuffs should be mixed in a trough sufficiently large to hold the quantity without wasting over the edges. First mix the corn meal and bran together while dry; after these have mixed thoroughly, making an evenly colored mixture, it should be moistened with water and mixed to a dry, crumbly state. It should not be too wet or sloppy, as it is then not so good for the fowls, neither can it be handled and fed properly. Warm water should be used when the weather is excessively cold. In a second trough place the green foods, such as cut rye, oats, etc., and dampen with water; then mix the allowance of the No. 2 grade flour with it. Thoroughly mix, so that the flour will completely cover the green stuff. After this has been done mix the flour and green mixture with the corn meal and bran mixture and add the allowance of beef scraps and sand. When vegetables are used, they should be well cooked before mixing in the rations.

The duck raisers on Long Island use large quantities of fish for their breeding stock. This is known as the "fish diet," and is considered as being very valuable to induce egg production. Where fish are cheap they form an excellent substitute for beef scraps in the rations for breeding ducks or ducks not intended for market, but under no circumstances should fish be fed to stock that will be marketed. Fish makes the flavor of the flesh strong and ducks fed on fish will not have ready sales in the market. The fish are cooked by boiling in iron camp kettles until well done, and then mixed, bones and all, in the rations as given above for breeding ducks. When fish is used the beef scraps are omitted.

HOW MUCH TO FEED.

The amount of feed needed each day for young ducks varies as much as does their growth. Their growth averages a half pound a week, and to make this increase of weight each week requires an additional quantity of food over the preceding one. The rule is, feed each meal what they will eat up clean with a relish, and do not allow them to linger over the feed trough. It is better they should have not enough than too much, as they will be in a much better condition to relish the next meal. One thing is considered to be of as much importance as the feed, and that is removing the feed left over and thoroughly cleaning the troughs after each meal. This is scrupulously attended to by successful duck raisers.

One raiser gives, as a generous allowance for one day's ration for one hundred laying ducks, the following: For the morning meal, 35 quarts of the mash, and for the evening meal 40 quarts, making a total of 75 quarts for the day's portion, or three-fourths of a quart to each duck a day. Another raiser allows 400 quarts, fed in halves, twice a day, to six hundred breeding or laying ducks, averaging two-thirds of a quart to each duck a day.

There are many patterns of feed troughs in use, hardly any two being alike. They are simple affairs, the simpler the better, as they are more easily kept clean. The designs given for water troughs are equally as good for feed troughs and answer the purpose very well. Each pen of birds should have two troughs, one for water and the other for feed, built proportionately to suit the age and size of the birds they are intended for. Make them of sufficient length to avoid crowding, so that all the birds in each pen will have ample room to eat at the same time.

OYSTER SHELLS AND GRIT.

Grit in some form is essential to ducks and should be kept before them at all times. Many overlook this fact and do not seem to understand that it is of as much value to them as it is to chickens. The sand used in the mashes tends to supply a certain amount of grinding material or grit to them, but does not fully satisfy them for digesting their food. On a farm where more than ten thousand birds are raised annually, and where disease is practically unknown, it was noted that in every pen there was a box of grit and a box of crushed oyster shells. This raiser states that he considers grit and oyster shells an absolute necessity for ducks, and he attributes the healthy appearance of his stock to it. His birds eat it freely and the supply is never allowed to run out.

KILLING AND DRESSING FOR MARKET.

There are two methods of dressing ducks for market, by dry picking and by scalding. Both of these methods are good and are being successfully employed by the largest raisers. Some have a preference for dry picking and others for scalding, and it becomes only a matter of taste which method is used. When birds are dressed by scalding they should be dipped several times, or until the feathers come out easily. The back should be dipped in the water first. After scalding, wipe them as dry as possible with a sponge and pick the breast feathers first. A bird when dressed for market has left on it the feathers on the wing, the tail feathers, and the feathers on head and neck, as shown in fig. 27. The legs are left on, and the birds are not drawn.

The process of dry picking is considered the simpler of the two methods, and one who is accustomed to the work can readily dress 3 dozen birds in a day. The picker's outfit consists of a chair, a box for the feathers, and a couple of knives, one knife being dull and the other being sharp pointed and double edged, for bleeding. The bird is taken between the knees, the bill held open with the left hand, and a cut made across the roof of the mouth just below the eyes. The bird is then stunned by striking its head against a post or some hard substance. The picker seats himself in the chair with the bird in his lap (fig. 28), its head held firmly between one knee and the box. The feathers arc carefully sorted while picking; the pins are thrown away and the body feathers with the down are thrown into the box. Care should be taken about this, as the feathers from each bird will weigh about 2 ounces, and will quite pay for the picking.

The dull knife and the thumb are used to remove the long pinfeathers, and this should be done without tearing the skin. The down can usually be rubbed off by slightly moistening the hand and holding the skin tight. Often some of the pins can not be taken out without tearing and disfiguring the skin; when such is the case they should be shaved off. Seven or eight minutes is all the time necessary to dress a bird. After the birds are picked they should be carefully washed, and plumped by placing in a tank or barrel of ice water. They are hardened in this ice water and given a rounded and full appearance. They are then packed in barrels or boxes and shipped to market. The first or bottom layer is packed with backs down; a layer of ice is then placed over them, and all other layers are packed with the breasts down, a layer of ice being between each layer of ducks. The top of the box or barrel is then rounded off with ice and covered with burlaps. A flour barrel will hold about three dozen birds. Some raisers use boxes for shipping and have the empties returned free.

DEVELOPMENT OF THE DUCKLING IN THE EGG.

Eggs to hatch must have good, strong germs and must be laid by healthy stock. Debilitated, degenerated stock will not produce healthy and vigorous young. The health of the breeding stock must be promoted and everything done that will assist to increase the fertility of the egg. Comfortable houses, cleanliness, pure water, and above all wholesome and nutritious food, are the best promoters of health. The best stock to be had is none too good, and it is erroneous to send the earliest and best stock to market for the small increase in price, and save the later and inferior stock for breeding purposes. A continuation of this practice for a few years means degenerate stock, infertile eggs, weak germs, and large mortality among the newly-hatched birds.

After an egg has been under incubation for thirty six hours, it will, if fertile, when held to the light, show a small dark spot a trifle larger than a pin's head. This little spot is the life germ and shows the egg to be fertile. From this time the development of the germ into the duckling can be plainly seen if the egg be held to a strong light. On the sixth or seventh day the first testing of the eggs should be made and all infertile ones taken out. The germ is very distinct at this time, and there has been a gradual change going on in the interior of the egg. The little spot has been constantly enlarging and becoming more dense, and little veins are seen running in divers directions.

This is the appearance of an egg with a strong, live germ, which under favorable circumstances will produce a duck.