Part 13

Delivery, Indian 85,619,000 91,368,000 101,168,000 Ceylon 12,578,000 23,830,000 31,947,000 China 116,870,000 105,668,000 87,652,900 Java 3,133,100 3,862,000 3,280,000 ----------- ----------- ----------- 218,200,000 224,728,000 224,047,000

Of which— Home Consumpt. 183,000,000 185,250,000 187,940,000 Export 35,200,000 39,500,000 36,107,000

There are three active substances in tea, which we should do well to notice: Volatile Oil, Theine, and Tannin.

The volatile oil can be distilled by ordinary process, and it contains the aroma and flavour of tea in perfection. Its action on the human body is not thoroughly known, with the exception that it is injurious in a greater or less degree. The Chinese are well aware of the fact, and will rarely use tea until it is a year old, thus allowing some of it to evaporate, and it is probably owing to this oil that tea-tasters (who taste as much by smell as by palate) are subject to attacks of headache and giddiness.

Theine is the principle which gives to tea its power of lessening the waste of the tissues in the human body, and, when separated from the decoction, it forms an alkaloid having no smell, a slightly bitter taste, and is composed of colourless crystals. It is also an active agent in Maté or Paraguay tea, in coffee (when it is called caffeine, although identical in substance), in Guarana, which is used as coffee in Brazil, and in the Kola Nut of Africa.

The third product, tannin, gives roughness of flavour to the tea, and is particularly developed by allowing the infusion to stand a long time. It is harmless; at least, its combination in tea has never been found to be hurtful; Its presence is at once shown by dropping some tea on the clean blade of a knife, when it will produce a black stain—the tannin derived from oxgalls, and a solution of iron, forming the ink with which we write.

That Chinese tea has been, and is, largely adulterated, is an indisputable fact, and in those bygone days, when all our supply came from China, it had to be borne. Now, at all events, the Indian and Ceylon teas are pure, and can be taken without the slightest fear. The green teas used to be most adulterated, but the black teas could also tell their tale of fraud.

J. A.

TEA.

II.

Introduction of Tea into Europe—Early Authorities thereon—“Tay”—Its Introduction into England—Excise Duty thereon—Thomas Garway’s Advertisement.

When tea was first introduced into Europe is still an unsettled question, and the earliest mention that the writers can find (that is, to verify) is in a volume of Travels by Father Giovanni Pietro Maffei,[126] published 1588 (book vi., p. 109). Speaking of his travels in China, he says: “Quanquam è vitibus more nostro non exprimunt merum, uvas quodam condimenti genere in hyemem adservare, mos est; cœterum ex herba quadam expressus liquor admodum salutaris, nomine Chia, calidus hauritur, ut apud Japonios: Cujus maxime beneficio, pituitam, gravedinem, lippitudinem nesciunt; vitam bene longam, sine ullo ferme languore traducunt, oleis alicubi carent.” “Although they do not extract wine from the vines as we do, but have a custom of preserving the grapes as a kind of condiment for the winter, they yet press out of a certain herb, a liquor which is very healthy, which is called Chia, and they drink it hot, as do the Japanese. And the use of this causes them not to know the meaning of phlegm, heaviness of the head, or running of the eyes, but they live a long and happy life, without pain, or infirmity of any sort.”

Another early mention of it is in a book by Giovanni Botero,[127] which was translated into English by Robert Peterson, “of Lincolne’s Inne, Gent.” He says (p. 75), “They haue also an herbe, out of which they presse a delicate iuyce, which serues them for drincke instead of wyne. It also preserues their health, and frees them from all those euills, that the immoderat vse of wyne doth breed vnto us.”

Early in the seventeenth century tea was becoming known in Europe, mainly through the instrumentality of the Dutch East India Company, and we learn much about it in the writings of Father Alexandre de Rhodes, who, after thirty-five years’ travel, gave the benefit of his experiences to the public. He left Rome in October, 1618, and thus writes about “De l’Vsage du Tay, qui est fort ordinaire en la Chine.”[128] He says, “One of the things which, in my opinion, contributes most to the great health of this people, who often attain to extreme old age, is _Tay_, the use of which is very common throughout the East, and which is beginning to be known in France, by means of the Dutch, who bring it from China, and sell it at Paris at 30 francs the pound, which they have bought in that country for 8 or 10 sols, and yet I perceive that it is very old, and spoilt. Thus it is that we brave Frenchmen suffer strangers to enrich themselves in the East India trade, whence they might draw the fairest treasures of the world, if they had but the courage to undertake it as well as their neighbours, who have less means of being successful than they have.

“_Tay_ is a leaf as large as that of our pomegranate, and it grows on shrubs similar to the myrtle: it does not exist elsewhere throughout the world, but in two provinces of China, where it grows. The chief is that of Nanquin, whence comes the best _Tay_, which they call _Chà_; the other is the province of Chin Chean. The gathering of this leaf in both these provinces is made with as much care as we exercise in our vintage, and its abundance is so great, that they have enough to supply the rest of China, Japan, Tonquin, Cochin China, and several other kingdoms, where the use of tea is so common, that those who drink it but three times a day are most moderate, many taking it ten or twelve times, or, in other words, at all hours of the day.

“When the leaf is gathered, it is well dried in an oven, after which it is put in tin boxes, which are tightly closed, because if the air gets to it, it is spoiled, and has no strength, the same as wine that is exposed to the air. I leave you to judge if Messieurs the Hollanders take care of that when they sell it in France. To know whether the _Tay_ is good, you must see that it is very green, bitter, and so dry as to be easily broken with the fingers. If it passes these tests, it is good; otherwise, be assured it is not worth much.

“This is how the Chinese treat the _Tay_ when they take it. Some water is boiled in a very clean pot, and when it boils it is taken off the fire, and this leaf is put therein, according to the quantity of water: that is to say, the weight of a crown of _Tay_ to a large glass of water. They cover the pot well, and, when the leaves sink to the bottom of the water, then is the time to drink it, for then it is that the _Tay_ has communicated its virtue to the water, and made it of a reddish colour. They drink it as hot as they can, for it is good for nothing if it gets cold. The same leaves which remain at the bottom of the pot will serve a second time, but then they boil them with the water.

“The Japanese take _Tay_ differently, for they make it into powder, which they throw into boiling water, and swallow the whole. I know not whether this method of making it is more wholesome than the former; I always use it thus, and find that it is common among the Chinese. Both mix a little sugar with the _Tay_ to correct the bitterness, which, however, does not seem disagreeable to me.

“There are three chief virtues in _Tay_. The first is to cure and prevent headache; for my part, when I had a headache, by taking _Tay_, I felt so comforted, that it seemed to draw all my pain away, for the principal force in _Tay_ is to expel those gross vapours that mount to the head, and inconvenience us. If it is taken after supper, it generally hinders sleep; yet there are some in whom it causes sleep, because by only expelling the grossest vapours, it leaves those which induce sleep. For myself, I have experienced it often enough, when I have been obliged to sit up all night hearing the confessions of my native Christians, which frequently happened; I had only to take _Tay_ at the hour when I should have been going to sleep, and I could go all night without wishing for sleep, and next morning I was as fresh as if I had had my usual slumber. I could do this once a week without being incommoded. Once I tried to continue this wakefulness for six consecutive nights, but on the sixth I was quite knocked up.

“_Tay_ is not only good for the head; it has a marvellous effect in comforting the stomach, and aiding the digestion, so that it is ordinarily drank after dinner, but not generally after supper, if sleep is required. The third thing that _Tay_ does is to purge the reins of gout and gravel, and it is, perhaps, the true reason why these maladies are unknown in these countries, as I have said before.”

One thing is very certain. Tea would not have been in use any length of time in France before it would be drank, as a novelty, in England, and by the year 1660 it had become in such general use that it was made a vehicle for taxation, as we see by the 12 Chas. II., c. 23: “For every gallon of Chocolate, Sherbet, and Tea, made and sold, to be paid by the Makers thereof, Eightpence,” and men were appointed to visit the coffee-houses twice daily to see the quantity brewed.

But this was so inconvenient, that in 1688, after giving this scheme a good trial, the Act was repealed by 1 Will. & Mary, c. 40, and the duties on coffee, chocolate, and tea (for this latter 1_s._ per lb.) were charged and collected at the Custom House, because “It hath been found by experience, that the collecting of the duty arising to your Majesties by virtue of several Acts of Parliament, by way of excise, upon the liquors of Coffee, Chocolate and Tea, is not only very troublesome and unequal upon the retailers of those liquors, but requireth such attendance of officers, as makes the neat receipt very inconsiderable.”

In the British Museum is a broadside folio advertisement, supposed to be about A.D. 1600, of a tobacconist, one Thomas Garway, who kept a coffee-house in Exchange Alley, known up till late years, when it has disappeared in the universal rage for improvements, as Garraway’s Coffee House. It is as follows:—

“An Exact Description of the Growth, Quality, and Vertues of the Leaf TEA, by _Thomas Garway_ in _Exchange Alley_, near the _Royal Exchange_ in _London_, and Seller and Retailer of TEA and COFFEE.

“TEA is generally brought from _China_, and groweth there upon little Shrubs or Bushes, the Branches whereof are well garnished with white Flowers that are yellow within, of the bigness and fashion of sweet Brier, but smell unlike, bearing thin green leaves about the bigness of _Scordium_, _Mirtle_, or _Sumack_, and is judged to be a kind of _Sumack_: This Plant hath been reported to grow wild only, but doth not, for they plant it in their Gardens about four foot distance, and it groweth about four foot high, and of the Seeds they maintain and increase their Stock. Of all places in _China_ this Plant groweth in greatest plenty in the Province of _Xemsi_, Latitude 36 degrees, bordering upon the West of the Province of _Honam_, and in the Province of _Namking_, near the City of _Lucheu_; there is likewise of the growth of _Sinam_, _Cochin China_, the Island _de Ladrones_ and _Japan_, and is called _Cha_. Of this famous Leaf there are divers sorts (though all of one shape) some much better than the other, the upper Leaves excelling the other in fineness, a property almost in all Plants, which Leaves they gather every day, and drying them in the shade, or in Iron pans over a gentle fire till the humidity be exhausted, then put up close in Leaden pots, preserve them for their Drink _Tea_, which is used at Meals, and upon all Visits and Entertainments in private Families, and in the Palaces of Grandees. And it is averred by a Padre of _Macao_, native of _Japan_, that the best _Tea_ ought not to be gathered but by Virgins who are destined to this work, and such _Quæ non dum Menstrua patiuntur; gemmæ quæ nascuntur in summitatæ arbuscula, servantur Imperitorie̅, ac præcipuis ejus Dynastis: quæ autem infra nascuntur, ad latera, populo conceduntur_. The said Leaf is of such known vertues, that those very Nations so famous for Antiquity, Knowledge, and Wisdom, do frequently sell it amongst themselves for twice its weight in Silver, and the high estimation of the Drink made therewith, hath occasioned an inquiry into the nature thereof among the most intelligent persons of all Nations that have travelled in those parts, who, after exact Tryal and Experience by all Wayes imaginable, have commended it to the use of their several Countries, for its Vertues and Operations, particularly as followeth, _viz._:—

“_The Quality is moderately hot, proper for Winter or Summer._

“_The Drink is declared to be most wholesome, preserving in perfect health untill extreme Old Age._

“_The particular Vertues are these_:—

“It maketh the Body clean and lusty.

“It helpeth the Head-ach, giddiness and heaviness thereof.

“It removeth the Obstructions of the Spleen.

“It is very good against the Stone and Gravel, cleansing the Kidneys and Vriters, being drank with Virgin’s Honey instead of Sugar.

“It taketh away the difficulty of breathing, opening Obstructions.

“It is good against Lipitude distillations, and cleareth the Sight.

“It removeth Lassitude, and cleanseth and purifieth adult Humors and a hot Liver.

“It is good against Crudities, strengthening the weakness of the Ventricle or Stomack, causing good Appetite and Digestion, and particularly for Men of a Corpulent Body, and such as are great eaters of Flesh.

“It vanquisheth heavy Dreams, easeth the Brain, and strengtheneth the Memory.

“It overcometh superfluous Sleep, and prevents Sleepiness in general, a draught of the Infusion being taken, so that, without trouble, whole nights may be spent in Study without hurt to the Body, in that it moderately heateth and bindeth the mouth of the Stomach.

“It prevents and cures Agues, Surfets and Feavers, by infusing a fit quantity of the Leaf, thereby provoking a most gentle Vomit and breathing of the Pores, and hath been given with wonderful success.

“It (being prepared and drank with Milk and Water) strengtheneth the inward parts, and prevents Consumptions, and powerfully asswageth the pains of the Bowels, or griping of the Guts, or Looseness.

“It is good for Colds, Dropsies, and Scurveys, if properly infused, purging the Blood by Sweat and Urine, and expelleth Infection.

“It drives away all pains in the Collick proceeding from Wind, and purgeth safely the Gall.

“And that the Vertues and Excellencies of this Leaf, and Drink, are many and great, it is evident and manifest by the high esteem and use of it (especially of late years) among the Physitians and Knowing men in _France_, _Italy_, _Holland_, and other parts of Christendom; and in _England_ it hath been sold in the Leaf for six pounds, and some times for ten pounds the pound weight, and, in respect of its former scarceness and dearness, it hath been only used as a _Regalia_ in high Treatments and Entertainments, and Presents made thereof to Princes and Grandees till the year 1657. The said _Thomas Garway_ did purchase a quantity thereof, and first publickly sold the said _Tea_ in Leaf and Drink, made according to the directions of the most knowing Merchants and Travellers into those Eastern Countries; And upon knowledge and experience of the said _Garway’s_ continued care and industry in obtaining the best _Tea_, and making Drink thereof, very many Noblemen, Physitians, Merchants and Gentlemen of Quality have ever since sent to him for the said Leaf, and daily resort to his House in _Exchange Alley_ aforesaid, to drink the Drink thereof.

“And that Ignorance nor Envy have no ground or power to report or suggest that what is here asserted of the Vertues and Excellences of this pretious Leaf and Drink hath more of design than truth, for the justification of himself and satisfaction of others, he hath here innumerated several Authors, who, in their Learned Works, have expressly written and asserted the same, and much more, in honour of this noble Leaf and Drink, _viz._, _Bontius_, _Riccius_, _Jarricus_, _Almeyda_, _Horstius_, _Alvarez Semeda_, _Martinious_ in his _China Atlas_, and _Alexander de Rhodes_ in his Voyage and Missions, in a large discourse of the ordering of this Leaf, and the many Vertues of the Drink, printed at _Paris_ 1653 part 10. Chap. 13.

“And to the end that all Persons of Eminency and Quality, Gentlemen and others who have occasion for _Tea_ in Leaf, may be supplyed, These are to give notice that the said _Thomas Garway_ hath _Tea_ to sell from sixteen to fifty Shillings the pound.

“And whereas several Persons using _Coffee_, have been accustomed to buy the powder thereof by the pound, or in lesser, or greater quantities, which, if kept two dayes looseth much of its first Goodness. And, forasmuch as the Berries after drying may be kept, if need require for some Moneths; Therefore all persons living remote from _London_, and have occasion for the said powder, are advised to buy the said _Coffee_ Berries ready dryed, which being in a Morter beaten, or in a Mill ground to powder, as they use it, will so often be brisk, fresh, and fragrant, and in its full vigour and strength as if new prepared, to the great satisfaction of the Drinkers thereof, as hath been experienced by many in this City. Which Commodity of the best sort, the said _Thomas Garway_ hath alwayes ready dryed to be sold at reasonable Rates.

“Also such as will have _Coffee_ in powder, or the Berries undryed, or _Chocolata_, may by the said _Thomas Garway_ be supplied to their content: With such further Instructions and perfect Directions how to use _Tea_, _Coffee_ and _Chocolata_, as is, or may be needful, and so as to be efficatious and operative, according to their several Vertues.

“FINIS.

“ADVERTISEMENT. That _Nicholas Brook_, living at the Sign of the _Frying-pan_ in St. _Tulies_ Street against the Church, is the only known man for the making of Mills for grinding of _Coffee_ powder; which Mills are by him sold from 40 to 45 shillings the Mill.”

J. A.

TEA.

III.

Pepys and Tea—First English Poem on Tea—Price of Tea temp. Queen Anne—Scandal over the Tea Cup—Jonas Hanway and Dr. Johnson on Tea—Love of the latter for this Beverage—How to make Good Tea.

By Garway’s Advertisement we get at one fact, that the use of tea had not been brought into popular use before 1657: a fact which is borne out by that old _quid nunc_ Pepys, who would surely have noticed it, as, indeed, he did as soon as it was brought under his ken. He mentions it in his diary under date 25th Sept., 1661, as being then a novelty, at all events to him. “I did send for a Cup of Tee, a China Drink of which I never drank before.” And again, 28th June, 1667, “Home, and there find my wife making of Tee, a drink which Mr. Pelling the Potticary tells her is good for her cold and defluxions.” So that even then it was not a common drink with people well to do, as we know Pepys was. The old English custom of drinking beer at breakfast died very hard—nay, it is not yet dead—surviving in farm houses in many places in the country, notably in Somersetshire; and when tea became cheap enough to be drank by the middle classes, those beneath them in the social scale indulged in sage tea, and infusions of other home grown herbs.

As it increased in popularity, the poets got hold of it, and numerous were the laudatory verses in Latin respecting its virtues. But, as far as can be found, the earliest English poem about it was by Waller, as under:—

“OF TEA.

COMMENDED BY HER MAJESTY.[129]

“Venus her Myrtle, Phœbus has his bays; Tea both excels, which she vouchsafes to praise. The best of queens,[130] and best of herbs, we owe To that bold nation[130] which the way did shew To the fair region where the Sun does rise, Whose rich productions we so justly prize. The Muses’ friend, Tea does our fancy aid, Repress those vapours which the head invade, And keeps that palace of the soul serene, Fit on her birthday to salute the Queen.”

As years went on, its popularity became greater, and it is satisfactory to find by the following extract from Lord Clarendon’s diary, 10th Feb., 1688, that the tea imported was good, and that it was treated properly. “Le Père Couplet supped with me; he is a man of very good conversation. After supper we had tea, which he said was as good as any he had drank in China. The Chinese, who came over with him and Mr. Fraser, supped likewise with us.”

With time, the consumption of tea increased, and its price was much lower; but still, taking the money value in the time of Queen Anne, in relation to our own it was excessively dear, and its value fluctuated much. Black tea varied in 1704 from 12_s._ to 16_s._ per pound; in 1706, 14_s._ to 16_s._; in 1707, which seems to have been an exceptionally dear year, 16_s._, 20_s._, 22_s._, 24_s._, 30_s._, and 32_s._ In 1709 it was from 14_s._ to 28_s._; and in 1710, 12_s._ to 28_s._ Green tea in 1705 was 13_s._ 6_d._; in 1707, 20_s._, 22_s._, 26_s._; in 1709, 10_s._ to 15_s._; and in 1710, 10_s._ to 16_s._ The difference between new and old is given once; the new tea is 14_s._, and the old 12_s._ and 10_s._

The margins in price are not only accounted for by difference in age, but it was well known that old leaves were re-dried and used in the cheaper sorts; indeed, there is a very curious advertisement in the advertising portion of the _Tatler_, Aug. 26th, 1710: “Bohea Tea, made of the same Materials that Foreign Bohea is made of, 16_s._ a Pound. Sold by R. Fary only, at the Bell in Grace Church Street, Druggist. Note. The Natural Pecko Tea will remain, after Infusion, of a light grey colour. All other Bohea Tea, tho’ there be White in it will Change Colour, and is artificial.”

Tea was now “in Society,” and was made the medium of pleasant little _réunions_. The accompanying illustration gives a Tea-party, temp. Queen Anne, by which it appears that the cups had no handles at that time, and were of veritable oriental porcelain, and that it was not considered a breach of good manners to drink tea out of saucers.

But even this Eden had its serpent, in the shape of scandal, from which the tea table seemed no freer in the time of Good Queen Anne than our own.[131] “Thus they take a sip of Tea, then for a draught or two of Scandal to digest it, next let it be Ratifia, or any other Favourite Liquor, Scandal must be the after draught to make it sit easie on their Stomach, till the half hour’s past, and they have disburthen’d themselves of their Secrets, and take Coach for some other place, to collect new matter for Defamation.”

An anonymous poet of that time sings thus of the tea table:—

“Here we see Scandal, (for our sex too base), Seat in dread Empire in the Female Race, ’Mong Beaus and Women, Fans and Mechlin Lace, Chief seat of Slander, Ever there we see Thick Scandal circulate with right Bohea. There, source of black’ning Falsehood’s Mint of Lies, Each Dame th’ Improvement of her Talent tries, And at each Sip a Lady’s Honour dies; Truth rare as Silence, or a Negro Swan, Appears among those Daughters of the Fan.”

Peter Motteux, in the same reign (1712), wrote “A Poem in Praise of Tea;” but his theme may, after all, only have been taken to advertise his East India Warehouse in Leadenhall Street. He says:—