Part 3

Said he, I am employed by the court of Spain on the same business, and have travelled through England, Scotland, and Ireland; and am come here to collect all the knowledge I possibly can. He gave me a description of the state and condition of the hospitals in Paris; and told me where I could obtain the publications I wanted, which are entirely new, and had not reached London. He also advised me to view the hospitals, and to go to Cherenton and see the anatomical productions there, which he said exceeded every thing of the kind in the world.

He visited me three times, and brought a French physician to see me once.

I visited M. Iberti once, and he gave me a book he had published, entitled, _Observations Generales sur les Hopitauz; suivies d'un Projeett d'Hospital_. In consequence of which the Royal Academy of Arts and Sciences at Paris had honoured him with a _medal_, in token that his works were highly applauded. He also told me that he had the use of the king's library.

I told him that I would endeavour to make him a present of a New Dispensatory, if he would let me know where I could send one that would get to him: he thanked me, and desired I would send one to the Spanish Ambassador in Great Britain, with whom he said he was well acquainted.

The Spanish physician's advice did me infinite service: I followed his direction, and obtained what I went after.

Among the many curiosities that I viewed this day was the ground where the Bastille stood, which had been a horrible place of punishment for about 400 years. I found this prison almost demolished, though a few of the dungeons remained: but the people were taking down the arches, walls, &c. An amazing quantity of stone had been carried from this disagreeable prison, and piled up in a street that environs the city, besides those at the _Champ de Mars_.

Before this prison was demolished it was surrounded by a ditch, and had no entrance to it but by a draw-bridge.

On the 6th of July, 1789, the National Assembly having established a committee of finances, which consisted of 64 members, and appointed M. Necker, president; the king afterwards appointed Baron de Breteuil, president, in the room of M. Necker; and having removed several other officers, the indignation of the populace was raised, who armed themselves, and were joined by the French guards. A slight skirmish ensued in the _Place de Louis XV._ in which two was killed, and two wounded, which belonged to the Duc de Choiseu's regiment of dragoons.

On the 8th the populace forced the convent of St. Lazare, in which was found a quantity of corn, arms, ammunition, &c. A general consternation prevailed; the shops were shut, and business was at a stand.

On the 14th the hospital of invalids surrendered to about 20,000 citizens, headed by the French guards: About 4,000 troops, 52,000 stands of arms, besides cannon, ammunition, &c. were taken. In the evening about 10 or 12,000 men, with two pieces of cannon, demanded the ammunition deposited in the Bastille. The governor held out a white flag, and opened one of the gates, through which about forty citizens and soldiers entered: he immediately drew up the bridge, and his troops massacred those that had entered. This breach of faith enraged the populace: a battle ensued, and the Bastille was taken in about three hours. The governor, the jailor, chief gunner, and two others were carried prisoners to the Hotel de Ville, where they were tried and executed, by being shot, and afterwards beheaded. M. de Flesselles, the first municipal officer of Paris, underwent the same fate, on being suspected of betraying the citizens. Their heads were carried in triumph through the streets of the city. In taking the Bastille about 300 were killed, besides those the governor massacred. The prisoners were liberated; and an old man, who had been in a dungeon thirty years, fell down when he came out, by reason of the operation the light had upon him.

Those that took the Bastille are honoured with a particular mark in their apparel, to distinguish them from other people.

CHAP. VII.

_The_ Doctor _goes to the_ Champ de Mars--_an Air Balloon descends on his Head.--He dines at a Grand Hotel, where commences_ un tête à tête _with a fine Lady.--He goes to the Italian Opera._

Paris, July 18.

This morning, being Sunday, I sent my servant for a coach to carry me to the _Champ de Mars_; but he returned without any, with this intelligence from the coachman, _viz._ that they were all forbid to move a coach that day, by reason of the great multitude of people that was to convene; as it was supposed, that many would be crushed to death if they were allowed to ride in coaches. The nobility, gentry, and commonalty, were therefore all obliged to walk to the _Champ de Mars_; at which place I took a seat, a little to the left of the National Assembly, where I had a fine prospect. There was the greatest multitude of people collected that I ever saw at one time, and they behaved with decency and good order. The Marquis de la Fayette rode at the head of the army, and was frequently honoured with huzzas, loud acclamations, and other demonstrations of joy. Among the bands of music was a very large drum, that seemed to make the earth tremble when it was beat.

I took a seat about ten, and tarried about five hours. About half past one, an air balloon, of a large magnitude, ascended to the southward of the _Champ de Mars_. It was conducted by a great number of men, who held its lines, over the place where I was sitting. It descended on our heads, and the French cried, _En bas, en bas, Monsieur_: Down, down, Sir. I bowed myself almost to the ground, to prevent being hurt; but arose, and pushed the balloon upwards with my hand: It ascended, and went to the northward; but descended again several times, and afterwards passed to the southward by the National Assembly, almost in a horizontal direction. When it had got at a little distance from the _Champ de Mars_, the inflammable air took fire, and the balloon split, with a report something like that of a cannon. It was said that several persons were considerably burnt when the balloon burst. I understood the next day, that some of the French supposed, that a great blessing will follow those upon whom the balloon descended.

After I had left the _Champ de Mars_, I dined at a grand hotel, where thirty-two tables were spread in one room. At this place a French lady viewed me with an _amorous eye_; and I perceived by some of her _motions_, after I had dined, that she had an inclination to _lead me into temptation_: but I was soon off with myself, and was thereby _delivered from evil_.

In the evening I went to the _Italian opera_, where sixty-two persons appeared on the stage at the first view. The vocal and instrumental music was excellent, and the other performances very entertaining.

CHAP. VIII.

_The_ Doctor _views three Hospitals, and the largest Cathedral in the Kingdom.--An Account of the Foundling Hospital. He goes to_ Versailles--_views the King and Queen's Palaces, returns to_ Paris, _and sees the Dauphin of France_.

Paris, July 19.

This morning I viewed the grand hospital, the lying-in hospital, the foundling hospital, and the greatest cathedral in the kingdom, called _L'Eglise de Notre Dame_. It is a grand Gothic structure, has a very fine choir, altar, &c. and many paintings, some of which represent the miracles and resurrection of Christ.

There were 17,500 children belonging to the foundling hospital, above 7,000 of which had been taken in within the compass of a year. They were kept very clean, and I did not hear a child cry amongst the whole number.

The matron, or governess of the hospital, shewed me their grand stores of linen and garments for the children, which was worth beholding.

This hospital is a most excellent institution: People of all kinds, and from all countries, are allowed to bring their children into it; and no questions are asked; only the person that leaves the child is asked if the child has been christened. If that has not been done, they get it done at the hospital. Those that bring their children put a ribbon round their necks, or mark them with something whereby they may be known in some future time, and they are permitted to take them away when they please.

Those that remain in the hospitals, are put out to learn trades, when they are old enough;--and sums of money are given to those who take them.

I was told that a young woman from Great Britain had just lain in at the lying-in hospital, and had put her child into the foundling hospital. Perhaps she may pass for a _virgin_ again, on her arrival in England!

This hospital must be of great utility to the people, because it relieves the poor, and prevents murder; as women have not the temptation to kill their children through fear of not having them supported; and also, because it produces a great number of good members of society.

After I had viewed the hospitals, I made a purchase of two books, which contained all I was in pursuit after. I also viewed the house where Voltaire the famous French poet died.

The same day I went in a coach with my servant to Versailles, which is about twelve miles from Paris. We arrived there about noon; and I viewed the king and queen's palaces, which are said to be the richest in the world, or at least, the most beautiful and magnificent in Europe. I also viewed the royal chapel and two of the royal theatres, and the king's gardens planted with tropical and other trees, plants, and herbs. The buildings are adorned and beautified with gold, and many splendid ornaments, and there are a great number of statues, and elegant paintings; all of which afford a very beautiful prospect.

Versailles is a pleasant place, and there are about 60,000 inhabitants in the town. I dined after I had viewed the curiosities, and returned to Paris in the evening, where I saw the Dauphin of France, attended by a monk.

Versailles is said to be the dearest place for entertainment that there is in France, owing to the great number of nobility and gentry that resort there: Therefore ought every traveller to be well provided with money when he goes to see that place.

CHAP. IX.

_Views two Hospitals, the Royal Observatory, and sundry other Magnificent Buildings.--Goes to the French Theatre, &c.--A Caution against going into bad Company._

Paris, July 20.

This day I viewed the charity hospital, and the hospital for invalids. The latter is a large and elegant building, in which there is a chapel, that is said to cover as much ground as the cathedral of St. Paul's, in London. The floors of the domes are made of fine marble, and each dome is dedicated to some saint, whose statue is placed in a niche, or hallow. There are some of the finest paintings in this chapel that I ever saw; and the hospital commonly contains about 200 officers, and 3,000 soldiers.

Afterwards I viewed the house of Bourbonne, and the royal observatory, where _astronomical observations_ are taken. I looked through the telescopes, and surveyed the mathematical instruments. I saw an account of the late observations, and perceived that the French are very accurate in performances of that kind: but I did not give them to understand that I was a professor of the science.

I also viewed a great church, called _Jamies_, which has been near twenty years in building, and is not yet wholly finished. In this church there are some of the largest and finest pillars that I ever beheld.

Afterwards I took a survey of the buildings and gardens which belong to the king's eldest brother; and went to the French theatre and saw the grand performances there. After the play was over, on returning to my lodgings, I was seized on the way by a very gay young lady, who accosted me with--_J' aime vous, Monsieur.--Voulez vous venir avec moi?_--My answer was in the negative. I was obliged to break her hold, and be off with myself. "Perhaps, said I, if I go with you, I may be robbed and murdered: it is best for me to keep out of the fire whilst it is in my power."

I had heard but a few days before of a man that was so simple as to accept of the invitation of two lewd women, who took him to their lodgings; but before morning he was robbed, not only of his watch and money, but of his clothes, and turned out naked into the street by some whore-mongers that frequented the house. This shews how dangerous it is to venture one's-self amongst strangers, and especially those of this sort. It is safest for every one, either at home or abroad, to shun all such kind of company, as well as the company of thieves, drunkards, gamesters, and those that use bad language: for the keeping of bad company has been the destruction of thousands; and especially the greatest mischief has been done among unthinking _youth_: their inexperience, and unsuspecting dispositions, making them the fit subjects for villainy to work upon.

CHAP. X.

_Contemplations, Philosophical and Moral, on the State and Condition of the Living and the Dead, which the Author indulges at the Abbey of St._ Denis, _where the Kings of France are buried_.

St. Denis, July 21,

_At half past one_, P. M.

I am now standing in the abbey of St. Denis, which is about six miles from Paris, and have been told that all the kings of France, excepting Lewis XVI. are buried here, and that the house of Bourbon lie under my feet.--Alas! said I, here is the end of those mighty monarchs, that once ruled the kingdom, commanded armies, fought battles, obtained victories, collected riches, and enjoyed the honours, the profits and the pleasures of this perishing world.--Here they lie silent! and their dominion, strength, and power, are wholly gone!--Their bodies are returned to the elements out of which they were formed, _viz._ to the earth, air, fire, and water. Alas! continued I, the present king of France, with all the mighty kings and princes on the globe, together, with the rest of the human race, must soon pass through this change! And not only the human race, but the birds, beasts and fishes, trees, plants, and herbs; even every thing that hath life must be dissolved, and return to the elements, _viz._ Earth to earth, air to air, fire to fire, and water to water; for it is the _decree_ of the _Divine Artificer_, who is the former of our bodies, and the father of our spirits, that all these things shall _once die_!--And, none of the mighty kings, or learned physicians, can hinder themselves or others, from experiencing this awful change.

Moreover, I had further contemplations upon the state of the living and the condition of the dead. I considered the mutability of our bodies; that they are continually changing; that they increase in proportion to the quantity of nutrition which they receive from meat, drink, the circumambient air, &c. or, decrease in proportion to a want of nourishment from those things.

That they are continually flying off by insensible perspiration and other evacuations, and would soon come to a dissolution, if not nourished by the vegetable and animal productions.

That the bodies we had seven years ago, are totally dissolved by those evacuations; and from hence we have new flesh, new bones, new skin, new hair, new nails, &c. formed out of the four elements.

That the time we have lived, is past and gone; and, that the time we are to live is not yet come, so that we only live at the present time.

That death is only a change from this state to another,--as our bodies return again to the elements, and our spirits to Him that gave them: that the dead, being at rest, are totally free from the cares, troubles, and vexations of a mortal life. The king is not afraid of losing his kingdom, nor the beggar of perishing with hunger.

I beg leave to conclude this chapter with the following reflections, which will not, I hope, detract from their solemnity, because cast in a _poetical_ mould.

Short is our passage thro' this nether world, For soon by death we from the stage are hurl'd. The tender infants in their lovely bloom, Are often hurry'd to the silent tomb! Adults grown up, nay some of ev'ry age, By cruel death are taken from the stage; The high, the low, the rich, the poor, the small, By the great _king of terrors_ soon must fall. The richest man, (it cannot be deny'd) Who with good things most amply is supply'd; Soon, too, he feels th' impartial stroke of death, Down falls his body, and off flies his breath: But where it goes, or how far it doth fly, No mortal man can tell below the sky. The elements that in the body are, Return to those from whence they taken were. Thus, dust to dust, and air to air, we find, And heat to heat, are soon again combin'd, Water to water soon again doth flow, And the whole mass to dissolution go!

Await, O man! thy doom; for 'tis the fate Of ev'ry creature in this mortal state: Yet shall th' immortal spark ascend on high, Of righteous ones who _in the_ LORD _do die_. Thus whilst their bodies are behind at rest, Their pious souls with happiness are blest.

---- Again.----

O happy state in which the dead are cast! Their pain is gone and all their trouble's past. When roaring winds bring up the thick'ned cloud, And the deep thunder rumbles out aloud; When the earth quakes, when lofty cities fall, When places sink, and can't be found at all; When inundations o'er the land arise, And burning mountains burst towards the skies; When famine and the pestilence doth rage, And wicked nations in a war engage; When blood and carnage greatly doth expand, And desolation overspreads the land, And boist'rous tempests rage upon the sea; Then are the Dead from danger wholly free. They're not afraid of being hurt, or slain, Like wretched mortals who alive remain. Let not the living then at Death repine, Since it was made by God an _act divine_, To raise the Just--the _husband_, _child_, and _wife_, From scenes of trouble to a better life!

CHAP. XI.

_Of the Curiosities in the Abbey of St. Denis.--The_ Doctor _views the King's Treasure.--Goes to the Italian Theatre.--Observations on the Actors, &c._

Whilst I was at the abbey of St. Denis, I viewed many elegant statues and paintings, and the font, or baptismal bason, out of which the kings of France had been christened. Afterwards I was admitted by a monk into the king's treasure, where I saw the crowns of the kings and queens of France, with many golden vessels and splendid ornaments.

I dined at a hotel in St. Denis, and returned to Paris; but in my rout I ascended a hill which commands a sight of the city, and affords a fine prospect. On this hill there is a great number of wind-mills, dwelling-houses, and other buildings. In the evening I went to the Italian theatre, where I was very well entertained with performances of different kinds. Their artificial thunder and lightning, was alarming; as the claps were very loud and sudden, and the flashes appeared as natural as those from the clouds.

The theatres in Paris are very large. They are opened at five o'clock, and the performances begin at six, and end at nine,--which is much better then to keep people till almost midnight; because they have time to return to their dwellings in season.

I have often thought that the actors are deficient in one thing; that is, in their not apprising the spectators of the subject before the play begins; and whether it is to be a tragedy or a comedy, and who or what it is to be in imitation of; and whether it is to represent a battle, a duel, or a courtship, &c. for the entering upon these things without any previous notice, is like a divine's preaching without naming his text, or letting his auditors know what subject he is about to discourse upon.

It is true, indeed, that the actors often send forth publications, to let the people know what is to be represented such and such evenings; but I do not think that more than one person in twenty that attends the plays ever reads the publications; and those that do, are put to the trouble of carrying them to the theatres, and of tracing them through the evening, or they will not know before-hand what play is to be acted next.

CHAP. XII.

_Views the Anatomical Productions at_ Cherenton. _A Description of the Vineyards.--The People meet where the Bastille stood, and pray for the Souls of them that were slain in taking that Place. Their Form of Prayer.--Surveys the King's Physical Gardens._

Paris, July 22.

This morning I went to Cherenton, which is two leagues from Paris, and viewed a great number of skeletons, not only of human bodies, but of birds, beasts, and fishes; and I must join in opinion with the Spanish physician, _viz_. that they exceed every thing of the kind in the world, or at least that I ever saw or heard of. Here are skeletons of infants and adults, mounted upon the skeletons of horses, of different sizes; some with the bones only, and some with the veins and arteries, muscles, &c. In short every part of the human machine is exposed to the view of the spectator. The various parts of the body are also preserved in spirits, and anatomy is demonstrated in all its branches in the best manner; which must be of excellent use to young students.

As I was returning to Paris, I viewed a number of vineyards which are cultivated for the purpose of raising grapes. The vines in general were planted about two feet apart, and are hoed much like the maze, or Indian corn, in America. In some places they have rows of potatoes between the vines, but at such places they are planted more than two feet apart; and for want of knowledge in philosophy, many hill their potatoes too high, which hinders their growth, by obstructing the rays of the sun from heating their roots.

The vines run upon poles, that are about four or five feet high; and after the grapes are gathered in the fall, the vines are cut down close to the ground, and from the roots another set arises, which bear grapes the next year. It appears to me that such vines would grow in many parts of America, if they were properly cultivated.

On entering into Paris, I passed by the place where the Bastille stood; and, behold! a number of the priests, with a great multitude of people, had met together to pray for the souls of them that had been slain, when the Bastille was taken on the 14th of July, 1789. I was told, that this was the first time that the priests and the people had met to pray on that occasion since the battle happened.

The catholics have various forms of prayer, which they make use of when they pray for the dead. The one for brethren, relations, and benefactors, runs thus:

"O God, the giver of pardon, and lover of the salvation of man, we beseech thy clemency in behalf of our brethren, relations, and benefactors, who departed this life; that by the intercession of the Blessed Virgin _Mary_, and of all thy saints, thou wouldest receive them into the joys of thy eternal kingdom: through our Lord Jesus Christ, _Amen_."

At the end of each form, the following is used: "Eternal rest give to them, O Lord; and let perpetual light shine upon them."

After I had left the place where the people were praying, I walked through the king's physical gardens, where there are about seven thousand different kinds of vegetables, consisting of trees, plants and herbs, collected from the four quarters of the globe, that can possibly be made to grow in Paris. I have been informed, that this botanical garden, and a museum of natural curiosities, which may be seen every Wednesday and Friday in the afternoon, costs the king 72,000 livres _per annum_.

In these gardens there is a mount, which I ascended by a path that runs round it, in a spiratic course. At the top of this hill I had a fine prospect, not only of the gardens, but of the city.