Chapter 13

There was water to drink, also cider in season, also milk, sweet and sour, and the very best of the homemade wine. Decanters of it sat up and down the table--you could fill up and come again at pleasure. The one drawback was--it was hard to eat properly, when you were so interrupted by helpings to something else. If there was a fault in our old-time cooking, it was its lack of selection. I think those who gave dinings felt uneasy if there was unoccupied room for one more dish.

Dessert was likewise an embarrassment of riches. Cakes in variety, two sorts of pie, with ice cream or sherbet, or fresh fruit, did not seem too much to those dear Ladies Bountiful. There was no after-dinner coffee. In cold weather coffee in big cups, with cream and sugar, often went with the main dinner. Hot apple toddies preceded it at such times. In hot weather the precursor was mint julep, ice cold. Yet we were not a company of dyspeptics nor drunkards--by the free and full use of earth's abounding mercies we learned not to abuse them.

_Birthday Barbecue_: (Dorothy Dix.) As refined gold can be gilded, barbecue, common, or garden variety, can take on extra touches. As thus: Kill and dress quickly a fine yearling wether, in prime condition but not over-fat, sluice out with cool water, wipe dry inside and out with a soft, damp cloth, then while still hot, fill the carcass cram-full of fresh mint, the tenderer and more lush the better, close it, wrap tight in a clean cloth wrung very dry from cold salt water, then pop all into a clean, bright tin lard stand, with a tight-fitting top, put on top securely, and sink the stand head over ears in cold water--a spring if possible. Do this around dusk and leave in water until very early morning. Build fire in trench of hard wood logs before two o'clock. Let it burn to coals--have a log fire some little way off to supply fresh coals at need. Lay a breadth of galvanized chicken-wire--large mesh--over the trench. Take out carcass--split it half down back bone, lay it flesh side down, on the wire grid, taking care coals are so evenly spread there is no scorching. After an hour begin basting with "the sop." It is made thus. Best butter melted, one pound, black pepper ground, quarter pound, red pepper pods, freed of stalk and cut fine to almost a paste, half a pint, strong vinegar, scant pint, brandy, peach if possible though apple or grape will answer, half a pint. Cook all together over very slow heat or in boiling water, for fifteen minutes. The sop must not scorch, but the seasoning must be cooked through it. Apply with a big soft swab made of clean old linen, but not old enough to fray and string. Baste meat constantly. Put over around four in the morning, the barbecue should be done, and well done, by a little after noon. There should be enough sop left to serve as gravy on portions after it is helped. The meat, turned once, has a fine crisped surface, and is flavored all through with the mint, and seasoning.

Dip-candles I never saw in common use--but Mammy showed me how they were made back at Ole Marster's, in the days when candle-molds were not to be had. Dipped or molded, the candles were of varying substance. Tallow was the main reliance--mutton tallow as well as that from our beeves. It was tried out fresh, and hardened with alum in the process. The alum was dissolved in a little water, and put with the raw fat as it went over the fire. By and by the water all cooked away, leaving the alum well incorporated through the clear fat. Lacking it, a little clear lye went in--Mammy thought and said, the lye ate up the oil in the tallow, making it firmer and whiter. But lye and alum could not go in at the same time, since being alkaline and acid, they would destroy each other.

Great pains were taken not to scorch the tallow--that meant smelly and ill-colored candles. After straining it clear of cracklings, it was caked in something deep, then turned out and laid on the highest shelf in the lumber house to await molding time. Cakes of beeswax were kept in the Jackson press, so children, white and black, could not take bites for chewing. It ranked next to native sweet gum for such uses--but Mammy felt it had much better be saved to mix with the tallow at melting time. It made the candles much firmer, also bettered their light, and moreover changed the tallow hue to an agreeable very pale yellow. Bee hives, like much else, were to a degree primitive--the wax came from comb crushed in the straining of honey. It was boiled in water to take away the remnant sweetness, then allowed to cool on top the water, taken off, and remelted over clean water, so manipulated as to free it from foreign substances, then molded into cakes. One cake was always set apart for the neighborhood cobbler, who melted it with tallow and rosin to make shoemaker's wax. Another moiety was turned into grafting wax--by help of it one orchard tree bore twelve manners of fruit. And still another, a small, pretty cake from a scalloped patty pan, found place in the family work basket--in sewing by hand with flax thread, unless you waxed it, it lost strength, and quickly pulled to pieces.

We bought our flax thread in skeins, but Mammy loved to tell of spinning it back in the days when she was young, and the best spinner on the old plantation. She still spun shoe-thread for her friend the cobbler, who, however, furnished her the raw flax, which he had grown, rotted and hechtelled, in his bit of bottom land. There were still spinning and weaving in plenty at our house--Mother had made, yearly, jeans, linsey, carpets and so on--but the plantation was not wholly clothed with homespun, as had been the case in her father's house.

Return we to our candle-making. It was work for the very coldest weather--even though we had two sets of molds, needs must the candles harden quickly if the making was to speed well. Molds could be filled at the kitchen hearth, then set outside to cool. For dipping the tallow-pot had to be set over an outside fire, and neighbored by a ladder, laid flat on trestles with smooth boards laid underneath. Mammy spun the candle wicks--from long-staple cotton, drawing it out thick, and twisting it barely enough to hold together. It must not be too coarse, as it had to be doubled over reeds at top, either for molding or dipping.

The molds were of candle-shape, joined in batteries of six or twelve, with a pert handle at one side, and tiny holes at the tips, through which the wick-ends were thrust, by help of a long broom-straw. Well in place they were drawn taut, the reeds so placed as to hold the wicks centrally, then tallow melted with beeswax, in due proportion, was poured around till the molds were brim full--after which they were plunged instantly into a tub of cold water standing outside. This to prevent oozings from the tip--hot grease is the most insidious of all substances. Only in zero weather would the first oozings harden enough to plug the orifice quickly. When the candles had hardened properly, the mold was either held over the fire, or thrust in hot water half a minute, then the candles withdrawn by help of the reeds. They were cooled a bit, to save the softened outside, then nubbed of surplus wick, and laid in a dish outside. Careless or witless molders, by laying candles still soft upon the pile, often made themselves double work.

Tallow for dipping, was kept barely fluid, by setting it over embers a little way off the fire. The pot had to be deep, so the wicks could be sunk in it to full length. They were thus sunk by stickfuls, lifted up quickly, and hung between the ladder rungs to drip. Half the tallow on them dripped away--indeed, after the first dipping they looked little more than clotted ghosts of themselves in their last estate. In very cold weather three drippings sufficed--otherwise there must be four or five. Since the dip was the result of cooled accretions, it was always top-heavy--much bigger at the nose than the base. A quick and skilled worker, though, could dip a hundred candles in the time required to mold two dozen. They burned out so quickly that was a crowning mercy--half a dozen was the average of a long winter evening. Further they ran down, in great masses--hence the importance of saving up drippings. Even molded candles made them plentiful enough to be worth re-molding. This unless discolored with the brass of candlesticks--in that case their last end was soap grease.

Rush lights were dips--this I state on information and belief, since I never saw one. Also on information and belief, it is here set forth, that folk in the back countries where wicking was not easily had, used instead of wicks, splinters of fat pine, known as light wood. In proof, take Candle Wood Mountain, whose name is said to have come from furnishing such fat pine, and of a special excellence. The pine splinters must, I think, have given a better light than real wicks--my father, in Tennessee, never ceased sighing for the lightwood, which had made such cheery illumination back in his boyhood, in a Carolina home.

Every sort of waste fat became at the last, soap grease. Bones even were thrown into kettles of lye, which ate out all their richness, leaving them crumbly, and fit for burying about the grapevines. Hence the appositeness of the darkey saying, to express special contempt of a suitor: "My Lawd! I wouldn't hab dat nigger, not eben for soap grease." Which has always seemed to me, in a way, a classic of condemnation.

Soap making came twice a year--the main event in March, to get free of things left over from hog killing, the supplement in September or October, to use up summer savings. Each was preceded by dripping lye. This necessitated wood ashes, of course--ashes from green wood. Oak or hickory was best. They were kept dry until they went into hoppers, where they were rotted by gentle wetting for a space of several days. Then water was dripped through, coming out a dark brown caustic liquid, clean-smelling, but ill to handle--it would eat a finger-tip carelessly thrust in it to the raw.

But even thus it was not strong enough for proper soapmaking, so it was boiled, boiled, until it would eat a feather, merely drawn quickly through it. Grease was added then, a little at a time, and stirred well through, changing the black-brown lye into a light-brown, bubbly mass. Whatever the lye would not eat of the grease's components, was skimmed out with the big perforated ladle. Even beyond candle-molding, soap-making was an art. Mammy never would touch it, until "the right time of the moon." Also and further, she used a sassafras stick for stirring, put it in the first time with her right hand, and always stirred the kettle the same way. If a left-handed person came near the kettle she was mightily vexed--being sure her soap would go wrong. She kept on the fire beside it a smaller kettle of clear lye, to be added at need, without checking the boiling.

Boiling down lye took one day, boiling in grease another. The third morning, after the fire was well alight, she tested the soap, by making a bit into lather. If the lather were clean and clear, without a film of grease on top, she knew it remained only to cook the soap down thick enough for the barrel, or to make into balls by the addition of salt. But if the film appeared--then indeed there was trouble. First aid to it was more lye, of feather-eating strength--next a fresh sassafras stirring stick, last and most important, walking backwards as she put the stick in the kettle, though she would never admit she did this on purpose. Like the most of her race she was invincibly shy about acknowledging her beliefs in charms and conjuring.

Soap which failed to thicken properly lacked grease. To put in enough, yet not too much, was a matter of nice judgment. Tallow did not mix well with hog fat. Therefore it had commonly its smaller special pot, whose results were molded for hand-soap, being hard and rather light-colored.

Since our washerwomen much preferred soft soap, most of the spring making went straight into the barrel. The barrel had to be very tight--soap has nearly as great a faculty of creeping through seams as even hot lard. One kettleful, however, would have salt stirred through it, then be allowed to cool, and be cut out in long bars, which were laid high and dry to age. Old soap was much better for washing fine prints, lawns, ginghams and so on--in fact whatever needed cleansing without fading.

Sundry other fine soap makers emptied their salted soap, just as it was on the point of hardening, into shallow pans, cloth-lined, and shaped it with bare hands into balls the size of two fists. This they did with the whole batch, holding hard soap so much easier kept, and saying it was no trouble whatever to soften a ball in a little hot water upon wash days. But Mammy would have none of such practices--said give her good soft soap and sand rock, she could scour anything. Sand rock was a variety of limestone, which burning made crumbly, but did not turn to lime. Mammy picked it up wherever she found it, beat it fine and used it on everything--shelves, floors, hollow-ware, milk pans, piggins, cedar water buckets--it made their brass hoops shine like gold. While she scoured she told us tales of the pewter era--when she had gone, a barefoot child, with her mother, to the Rush Branch, to come home with a sheaf of rushes, whereby the pewter was made to shine. It hurts even yet, recalling the last end of that pewter. As glass and crockery grew plenty, the boys--my uncles, there were five of them--melted it down for rifle bullets, when by chance they ran out of lead. Yet--who am I, to reproach them--did not I myself, melt down for a purpose less legitimate a fine Brittania ware teapot, whose only fault was a tiny leak? Now I should prize it beyond silver and gold.

Harking back to candle-making--we had no candle-berries in our wilds, and only a few wax-berries as ornaments of our gardens. But from what I know by observation and experience, the candle-berries or bayberries, can be melted in hot water, the same as honey-comb, and the wax strained away from the seedy residue, then allowed to cool, on top the water, and clarified by a further melting and cooling over water. Mixed with paraffine it can be molded into real bayberry candles, ever so much more odorous than those of commerce. It is well to remember in buying paraffine that there are three qualities of it, differing mainly in the degree of heat at which they melt. Choose that which is hardest to melt for candle-making. One might indeed, experiment with bayberry wax, and the drippings of plain paraffine candles, before undertaking candle-making to any considerable extent.

A last word. If any incline to challenge things here set forth, will they please remember that as one star differs from another in glory, so does one family, one region, differ from all others in its manners of eating, drinking, and cooking. I have written true things, but make no claim that they apply all over. Indeed there may be those to whom they will seem a transversing of wisdom and experience. To all such I say, try them intelligently, with pains and patience, and of the results, hold fast to that you find good.

INDEX

BACON Hogs to Choose, 40 Chilling, 40 Cutting up, 40 Salting, 42 Curing, 45 Smoke, 45 Smoke Houses, 46 Smoke Hogshead, 48 Time of Smoking, 49 Keeping, 50 Lard Rendering, 50 Sausage, 52 Souse, 53 Hog's Foot Oil and Jelly, 54 Brains, Pickled, 55 Souse, Pickled, 55 Hog's Feet Fried, 55 Backbone, Stew and Pie, 56 Keeping Sausage, 57

BREADS Flour and Meal, 26 Mixing, 28 Beaten Biscuit, 28 Soda Biscuit, 30 Salt Rising Bread, 31 Sweet Potato Biscuit, 32 Waffles, 33 Corn Bread, Plain, 34 Egg Bread, 35 Batter Cakes, 35 Ash Cake, 36 Mush Bread, 36 Cracklin' Bread, 37 Pumpkin Bread, 37 Mush Batter Cakes, 38 Wafers, 38 Nut Bread, 219

CAKES Secret of Success, 136 Mixing, 137 Sweetening Strong Butter, 138 Baking, 139 Frosting, 140 Pound Cake, 140 Spice Cake, 142 Marble Cake, 143 Real Gold Cake, 143 Real Silver Cake, 144 Christmas Cake, 145 White Layer Cake, 147 Cream Cake, 148 Sponge Cake, 148 White Sponge Cake, 149 Angel's Food, 149 Chocolate Cake, 149 Orange Cake, 150 Dream Cakes, 150 Shrewsbury Cakes, 151 Queen Cakes, 151 Banbury Cakes, 152 Oatmeal Cookies, 152 Tea Cakes, 153 Soft Gingerbread, 153 Mammy's Ginger Cakes, 154 Family Gingerbread, 155 Solid Chocolate Cake, 155 Coffee Cake, 155 Ginger Snaps, 156 Kisses, 157

CANDLES, 292

CREOLE COOKERY Milly, 118 Court Bouillon, 120 Court Bouillon, Spanish, 121 Bouillabaisse, 122 Shrimps, Boiling, 124 Baked Shrimp, 125 Shrimp Pie, 125 Shrimp Salad, 126 Fried Soft-Shell Crabs, 126 Daube _a la Mode_, 127 Cold Daube _a la Creole_, 128 Grillades with Gravy, 129 Chicken Saute _a la Creole_, 130 Quail, Roasted, 131 Creole French Dressing, 132 Mayonnaise Dressing, 133 Remoulade Dressing, 133

DRINKS Cherry Bounce, 72 Grape Cider, 73 Persimmon Beer, 74 Egg Nogg, 75 White Egg Nogg, 76 Apple Toddy, 76 Hail Storm, 77 Mint Julep, 77 Lemon Punch, 78 Punch _a la_ Ruffle Shirt, 79 Peach Liqueur, 82 Strawberry Liqueur, 83 Blackberry Cordial, 83 Blackberry Wine, 84 Strawberry Wine, 85 Gooseberry Wine, 85 Grape Wine, 86 Muscadine Wine, 87 Fruit Vinegars, 88 Boiled Cider, 89 Bruleau, 134 Drip Coffee, 134 Boiled Coffee, 235 Chocolate, 237 Tea, 234

EGGS New Laid Eggs, 176 Keeping, 176 Varieties, 177 Roasted Eggs, 178 Baked Eggs, 179 Potato Egg Puffs, 179 Egg Dumplings, 180 Egg Spread, 180 Poached Eggs, 181 Egg Fours, 182 Stuffed Eggs, 183 Fried Eggs, 184

FRUIT DESSERTS Affinity for Liquors, 212 Strawberries in Mixtures, 213 Peach Mixtures with Brandy, 214 Fruit Mixtures with Sherry Syrup, 214 White Grape-Orange Mixture, 214 Cherries with Bananas, 215 Fruit with Wine Jelly, 215

GAME Preparation, 165 Rabbit or Squirrel Smothered, 172 Rabbit or Squirrel Barbecued, 173 Quail, 173 Wild Duck, 174 Possum, Roasted, 175

HAMS Boiled Ham, 59 Fried Ham, 63 Broiled Ham, 64 Mutton Ham, 66 Beef Hams, 68 Rabbit Hams, 70 Fresh Ham, 70

MEATS Barbecued Lamb, 158 Roast Pork, 159 Beefsteak with Bacon and Onions, 160 Boned Fresh Ham, 161 Roast Beef, 163 Pot Roast, 163 Leg of Mutton in Blanket, 164 Roast Turkey or Capon, 167 Guinea Hen in Casserole, 168 Chickens in Blankets, 169 Fried Chicken, 169 Smothered Chicken or Ducklings, 170 Chicken Croquets Glorified, 171 Chicken-Turkey Hash, 172

PICKLES Brine, 220 Pickle Barrel, 221 Potential Pickles, 221 Pickling from Brine, 223 Water Melon Pickle, 223 Mangoes, 224 Walnut Pickle, 226 Peach Sweet Pickle, 233

PIES Philosophy of Pie-Crust, 90 Puff Paste, 91 Raised Crust, 93 French Puff Paste, 94 Everyday Crust, 95 Cobbler Pies, 95 Fried Pies, 97 Green Apple Pie, 98 Lemon Custard, 99 Cream Pie, 99 Damson and Banana Tart, 99 Amber Pie, 100 Jelly Pie, 101 Cheese Cakes, 101 Sweet Potato Custard, 104 Sweet Potato Pie, 104 Apple Custard, 105 Molasses Pie, 105 Mystery Pie, 106 Butter Scotch Pie, 106 Raspberry Cream Pie, 107 Rhubarb Pie and Sauce, 107 Banana Pie, 108

PRESERVES Preserving Fruit, 227 Ginger Pears, 230 Tutti Frutti, 230 Green Tomato Preserves and Citron, 231 Brandy or Pickled Cherries, 232 Brandy Peaches and Pears, 233 Dried Fruit, 239 Peach and Apple Butter, 245 Keeping Cider Sweet, 249 Peach Chips, 250 Dried Cherries, 250 Peach Leather, 251 Tomato Figs, 251 Jelly-Making, 253 Quince Jelly and Marmalade, 254

PUDDINGS Banana Pudding, 109 Sweet Potato Pudding, 109 Poor Man's Pudding, 110 Boiled Batter Pudding, 111 Apple Pudding, 111 Apple Dumplings, 112 Crumb Pudding, 112 Blackberry Mush, 113 Peach Pudding, 114 Ginger Pudding, 114 Nesselrode Pudding, 115 Thanksgiving Pudding, 115 Christmas Pudding, 115 Pudding Sauce, 117 Fig Pudding, 156 Quince Pudding, 253

RELISHES Cold Slaw, 192 Tomato Soy, 193 Table Mustard, 193 Cabbage Pickle, 194 Cauliflower Pickle, 194 Pear Relish, 195 Cherries Piquant, 196 Gooseberry Jam Spiced, 196 Frozen Cranberry Sauce, 197 Apple Sauce Gone to Heaven, 197 Spiced Grapes, 199 Spiced Plums, 200 Sweet-Sour Pears, 200 Baked Peaches, 201

SALADS Wedding Salad, 188 Fruit Salad, 189 Sweet French Dressing, 190 Banana and Celery Salad, 191 Red White Salad, 191 Pineapple Salad, 191

SANDWICHES Making Sandwiches, 216 Sardine Sandwiches, 217 Sundry Cheese Sandwiches, 217 Lettuce and Cheese Sandwiches, 217 Ham and Tongue Sandwiches, 218 Cheese and Sherry Sandwiches, 218

SOUPS Vegetable Soup, 185 Black Turtle, Bean Soup, 186 Gumbo, 187

SOAP, 298