Part 1

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+--------------------------------------------------------------+ | Transcriber's Note: | | | | This is a very old document which contains inconsistent and | | unusual spelling. While most of the unusual spelling has | | been preserved, a number of obvious typographical errors | | have been corrected. For a complete list, please see the | | end of this document. | | | | The illustration mentioned on the Frontispiece has been | | lost. | | | +--------------------------------------------------------------+

DIRECTIONS For Navigating on Part of the South Coast of Newfoundland, WITH A CHART thereof, Including the ISLANDS of St. PETER's and MIQUELON, And a particular ACCOUNT of the Bays, Harbours, Rocks, Land-Marks, Depths of Water, Latitudes, Bearings, and Distances from Place to Place, the Setting of the Currents, and Flowing of the Tides, _&c._

From an actual SURVEY, taken by Order of

Commodore PALLISSER, Governor of _Newfoundland_, _Labradore_, &c.

By JAMES COOK,

Surveyor of _Newfoundland_.

LONDON:

Printed for the AUTHOR, and Sold by J. MOUNT and T. PAGE on _Tower-Hill_, M,DCC,LXVI.

DIRECTIONS

FOR

Navigating on Part of the South Coast of _NEWFOUNDLAND_.

N.B. _All Bearings and Courses hereafter-mentioned, are the true Bearings and Courses, and not by Compass._

[Sidenote: Cape Chapeaurouge.]

Cape _Chapeaurouge_, or the Mountain of the _Red Hat_, is situated on the West side of _Placentia Bay_, in the Latitude of 46° 53' North, and lies nearly West 17 or 18 Leagues from Cape St. _Maries_; it is the highest and most remarkable Land on that Part of the Coast, appearing above the rest something like the Crown of a Hat, and may be seen in clear Weather 12 Leagues.

[Sidenote: Harbours of St. Laurence]

Close to the Eastward of Cape _Chapeaurouge_ are the Harbours of _Great_ and _Little St. Laurence_. To sail into _Great St. Lawrence_, which is the Westermost, there is no Danger but what lies very near the Shore; taking Care with Westerly, and particularly S.W. Winds, not to come too near the _Hat Mountain_, to avoid the Flerrys and Eddy Winds under the high Land. The Course in is first N.W. till you open the upper Part of the Harbour, then N.N.W. half W. The best Place for great Ships to Anchor, and the best Ground is before a Cove on the East-side of the Harbour in 13 Fathom Water. A little above _Blue Beach Point_, which is the first Point on the West-side; here you lie only two Points open: You may Anchor any where between this Point and the Point of _Low Beach_, on the same Side near the Head of the Harbour, observing that close to the West Shore, the Ground is not so good as on the other Side. Fishing Vessels lay at the Head of the Harbour above the Beach, sheltered from all Winds.

To sail into _Little St. Laurence_ you must keep the West Shore on Board, in order to avoid a sunken Rock which lies a little without the Point of the _Peninsula_, which stretches off from the East-side of the Harbour: You Anchor above this _Peninsula_, (which covers you from the Sea Winds) in 3 and 4 Fathom Water, a fine sandy Bottom. In these Harbours are good Fishing Conveniencies, and plenty of Wood and Water. Ships may Anchor without the _Peninsula_ in 12 Fathom good Ground, but open to the S.S.E. Winds.

[Sidenote: Sauker Head.]

_Sauker-Head_ lies 3 Miles to the Eastward of Cape _Chapeaurouge_, it is a pretty high round Point, off which lie some sunken Rocks, about a Cable's Length from the Shore.

[Sidenote: Garden Bank]

This Bank whereon is from 7 to 17 Fathom Water, lies about half a Mile off from _Little St. Laurence_, with _Blue Beach Point_ on with the East Point of _Great St. Laurence_.

[Sidenote: Ferryland Head.]

_Ferryland head_ lies S.W. 1 Mile from Cape _Chapeaurouge_, it is a high rocky Island, just seperated from the Main; it and Cape _Chapeaurouge_ are sufficient Marks to know the Harbours of St. _Laurence_.

[Sidenote: Bay of Laun.]

West 5 Miles from _Ferryland-Head_, lies the Bay of _Laun_, in the Bottom of which are two small Inlets, called _Great_ and _Little Laun_. _Little Laun_, which is the Eastermost, lies open to the S.W. Winds, which generally prevails upon this Coast, and therefore no Place to Anchor in. _Great Laun_ lies in about N. by E. 2 Miles, is near half a Mile wide, whereon is from 14 to 3 Fathom Water. To sail into it, you must be careful to avoid a sunken Rock, which lies about a quarter of a Mile off from the East Point. The best Place to Anchor is on the East-side, about half a Mile from the Head, in 6 and 5 Fathom; the Bottom is pretty good, and you are shelter'd from all Winds, except S. and S. by W. which blow right in, and cause a great swell. At the Head of this Place is a Bar Harbour, into which Boats can go at half Tide; and Conveniences for a Fishery, and plenty of Wood and Water.

[Sidenote: Laun Islands.]

Off the West Point of _Laun Bay_ lay the Islands of the same Name, not far from the Shore; the Westermost and outermost of which lie W. Southerly 10 Miles from _Ferryland-head_; near a quarter of a Mile to the Southward of this Island is a Rock whereon the Sea breaks in very bad Weather: There are other sunken Rocks about these Islands, but they are no ways Dangerous, being very near the Shore.

[Sidenote: Taylor's Bay.]

This Bay which lies open to the Sea, lies 3 Miles to the Westward of _Laun_ Islands; off the East Point are some sunken Rocks near a quarter of a Mile from the Shore.

[Sidenote: Point Aux Gaul.]

A little to the Westward of _Taylors Bay_ there stretches out a low Point of Land, called _Point Aux Gaul_; off which lies a Rock above Water, half a Mile from the Shore, called _Gaul Shag Rock_; this Rock lies West three quarters South 5 Leagues from _Ferryland-Head_, you have 14 Fathom close to the off Side of it, but between it and the Point are some sunken Rocks.

[Sidenote: Lamelin Bay.]

From _Point Aux Gaul Shag Rock_, to the Islands of _Lamelin_ is West three quarters N. 1 League, between them is the Bay of _Lamelin_, wherein is very shallow Water, and several small Islands, and Rocks both above and under Water, and in the Bottom of it is a Salmon River.

[Sidenote: Lamelin Islands.]

The two Islands of _Lamelin_ (which are but low) lie off the West Point of the Bay of the same Name, and lie West three quarters South, 6 Leagues from the Mountain of the _Red Hat_; but in steering along Shore make a W. by S. Course good, will carry you clear of all Danger. Small Vessels may Anchor in the Road between these Islands in 4 and 5 Fathom, tolerably well shelter'd from the Weather: Nearly in the Middle of the Passage going in between the two Islands, is a sunken Rock, which you avoid by keeping nearer to one Side than the other, the most Room is on the East-side. The Eastermost Island communicates with the Main at Low-water, by a narrow Beach, over which Boats can go at High-water, into the N.W. Arm of _Lamelin Bay_, where they lay in safety. Here are Conveniences for a Fishery, but little or no Wood of any Sort. Near to the South Point of the Westermost Island is a Rock pretty high above Water, called _Lamelin Shag Rock_; in going into the Road between the Islands, you leave this Rock on your Larboard Side.

[Sidenote: Lamelin Ledges.]

These Ledges lay along the Shore, between _Lamelin Islands_ and _Point May_, which is 3 Leagues, and are very Dangerous, some of them being 3 Miles from the Land. To avoid these Ledges in the Day-time, you must not bring the Islands of _Lamelin_ to the Southward of East, until _Point May_, or the Western extremity of the Land bear N. by E. from you; you may then steer to the Northward with safety, between _Point May_ and _Green Island_. In the Night, or foggy Weather, you ought to be very careful not to approach these Ledges within 30 Fathom Water, least you get intangled amongst them. Between them and the Main are various Soundings from 16 to 5 Fathom.

[Sidenote: Observations.]

All the Land about Cape _Chapeaurouge_ and _Laun_, is high and hilly close to the Sea; from _Laun Islands_ to _Lamelin_ it is of a moderate Height; from _Lamelin_ to _Point May_, the Land near the Shore is very low, with sandy Beaches, but a little way inland are Mountains.

[Sidenote: Island of St. Peter's.]

The Island of St. _Peter_'s lies in the Latitude 46 Degrees 46 Minutes North. West by South near 12 Leagues from Cape _Chapeaurouge_, and West by South half South 5 Leagues from the Islands of _Lamelin_; it is about 5 Leagues in circuit, and pretty high, with a craggy, broken, uneven Surface. Coming from the Westward, as soon as you raise _Gallantry Head_, which is the South Point of the Island, it will make in a round Hommock like a small Island and appears if seperated from St. _Peter_'s. On the East-side of the Island, a little to the N.E. of _Gallentry-Head_ lay three small Islands, the innermost of which is the largest, called _Dog-Island_; within this Island is the Road and Harbour of St. _Peter_'s; the Harbour is but small, and hath in it from 12 to 20 Feet Water; but there is a Bar across the Entrance, whereon there is but 6 Feet at Low-water, and 12 or 14 Feet at High-water. The Road which lies on the N.W. Side of _Dog-Island_ will admit Ships of any Burthen, but it is only fit for the Summer Season, being open to the N.E. Winds; you may lay in 8, 10, and 12 Fathom, and for the most Part is a hard rocky Bottom, there is very little clear Ground; Ships of War commonly Buoy their Cables; the best Ground is near the North Shore. Going in or out, you must not rainge too near the East-side of _Boar-Island_, which is the Eastermost of the three Islands above-mentioned, for fear of some sunken Rocks which lie East about 1 Mile from it, and which is the only Danger about St. _Peter_'s, but what lay very near the Shore.

[Sidenote: Island of Columbo.]

This Island is of a small circuit, but pretty high, and lies very near the N.E. Point of St. _Peter_'s; between them is a very good Passage, one-third of a Mile wide, wherein is 12 Fathom Water. On the North-side of the Island is a Rock pretty high above Water, called _Little Columbo_; and about a quarter of a Mile N.E. from this Rock is a sunken Rock, whereon is 2 Fathom Water.

[Sidenote: Island of Langley.]

The Island of _Langley_, which lies on the N.W. Side of St. _Peter_'s, is about 8 Leagues in Circuit, of a moderate and pretty equal height, except the N. end, wich is a low Point with Sand Hills along it; it is flat a little way off the low Land on both Sides of it, but all the high Part of the Island is very bold too, and the Passage between it and St. _Peter_'s (which is 1 League broad) is clear of Danger. You may Anchor on the N.E. Side of the Island, a little to the Southward of the _Sand Hills_, in 5 and 6 Fathom, a fine sandy Bottom, sheltered from the Southerly, S.W. and N.W. Winds.

[Sidenote: Island of Miquelon.]

From the North Point of _Langley_, to the South Point of _Miquelon_ is about 1 Mile; it is said that a few Years since they join'd together at this Place by a Neck of Sand, which the Sea has wash'd away and made a Channel, wherein is 2 Fathom Water. The Island of _Miquelon_ is 4 Leagues in Length from North to South, but of an unequal Breadth; the Middle of the Island is high Land, called the high Land of _Dunn_; but down by the Shore it is low, except Cape _Miquelon_, which is a lofty Promontory at the Northern extremity of the Island.

[Sidenote: Dunn Harbour.]

On the S.E. Side of the Island, to the Southward of the high Land, is a pretty large Bar-Harbour, called _Dunn Harbour_, which will admit Fishing Shallops at half Flood, but can never be of any Utility for a Fishery.

[Sidenote: Miquelon Rocks and Bank.]

_Miquelon Rocks_ stretches off from the East Point of the Island, under the high Land 1 Mile and a quarter to the Eastward, some are above and some under Water; the outermost of these Rocks are above Water, and you have 12 Fathom close to them, and 18 and 20 Fathom 1 Mile off. N.E. half N. 4 or 5 Miles from these Rocks lie _Miquelon Bank_ whereon is 6 Fathom Water.

[Sidenote: Road of Miquelon.]

The Road of _Miquelon_ (which is large and spacious) lies at the North-end, and on the East-side of the Island, between Cape _Miquelon_ and a very remarkable round Mountain near the Shore, called _Chapeaux_: Off the South Point of the Road are some sunken Rocks, about a quarter of a Mile from the Shore, but every where else it is clear of Danger. The best Anchorage is near the Bottom of the Road in 6 and 7 Fathom, fine sandy Bottom; you lay open to the Easterly Winds, which Winds seldom blow in the Summer.

[Sidenote: Cape Miquelon.]

Cape _Miquelon_, or the Northern extremity of the Island is high bluff Land; and when you are 4 or 5 Leagues to the Eastward or Westward of it, you would take it for an Island, by reason the Land at the Bottom of the Road is very low.

[Sidenote: Seal Rocks]

The _Seal Rocks_ are two Rocks above Water, lying 1 League and a half off from the Middle of the West-side of the Island _Miquelon_; the Passage between them and the Island is very safe, and you have 14 or 15 Fathom within a Cable's Length all round them.

[Sidenote: Green Island.]

This Island which is about three-quarters of a Mile in Circuit, and low, lies N.E. 5 Miles from St. _Peter_'s, and nearly in the Middle of the Channel, between it and _Point May_ on _Newfoundland_; on the South-side of this Island are some Rocks both above and under Water, extending themselves 1 Mile and a quarter to the S.W.

_Description of_ Fortune Bay.

_Fortune Bay_ is very large, the Entrance is form'd by _Point May_ and _Pass Island_, which are 12 Leagues N. by E. and S. by W. from each other, and it is about 23 Leagues deep, wherein are a great many Bays, Harbours, and Islands.

[Sidenote: Island of Brunet.]

The Island of _Brunet_ is situated nearly in the Middle of the Entrance into _Fortune Bay_, it is about 5 Leagues in Circuit, and of a tolerable Height; the East-end appears at some Points of view like Islands, by reason it is very low and narrow in two Places. On the N.E. Side of the Island is a Bay, wherein is tolerable good Anchorage for Ships in 14 and 16 Fathom, shelter'd from Southerly and Westerly Winds; you must not run too far in for fear of some sunken Rocks in the Bottom of it, a quarter of a Mile from the Shore; opposite this Bay on the South-side of the Island, is a small Cove, wherein small Vessels and Shallops can lay pretty secure from the Weather, in 6 Fathom Water; in the Middle of the Cove is a Rock above Water, and a Channel on each Side of it. The Islands laying at the West-end of _Brunet_, called _Little Brunets_, afford indifferent Shelter for Shallops in blowing Weather; you may approach these Islands, and the Island of _Brunet_, within a quarter of a Mile all round, there being no Danger but what lay very near the Shore.

[Sidenote: Plate Islands]

_Plate Islands_ are three Rocks of a moderate Height, lying S.W. 1 League from the West-end of _Great Brunet_. The Southermost and outermost of these Rocks, lay W. by S. half S. 11 Miles from Cape _Miquelon_, and in a direct Line between _Point May_ and _Pass Island_, 17 Miles from the former and 19 from the later; S.E. a quarter of a Mile from the _Great Plate_ (which is the Northermost) is a sunken Rock, whereon the Sea breaks, which it the only Danger about them.

[Sidenote: Observations]

There are several strong and irregular Settings of the Tides or Currents about the _Plate_ and _Brunet Islands_, which seem to have no dependency on the Moon, and the Course of the Tides on the Coast.

[Sidenote: Island of Sagona.]

The Island of _Sagona_, which lies N.N.E. 2 Leagues from the East-end of _Brunet_, is about 3 Miles and a half in circuit, of a moderate Height, and bold too all round, at the S.W. end is a small Creek that will admit Fishing Shallops; in the Middle of the Entrance is a sunken Rock which makes it exceeding narrow, and difficult to get in or out, except in fine Weather.

[Sidenote: Point May.]

_Point May_ is the Southern Extremity of _Fortune Bay_, and the S.W. Extremity of this Part of _Newfoundland_; it may be known by a great black Rock, nearly joining to the Pitch of the Point, and something higher than the Land, which makes it look like a black Hommock on the Point; near a quarter of a Mile right off from the Point, or this round black Rock, are three sunken Rocks, whereon the Sea always breaks.

[Sidenote: Dantzic Coves.]

Near 2 Miles North from _Point May_, is _Little Dantzic Cove_, and half a Leag. from _Little Dantzic_ is _Great Dantzic Cove_; these Coves are no Places of safety, being open to the Westerly Winds; the Land about them is of a moderate Height, bold too, and clear of Wood.

[Sidenote: Fortune.]

From _Dantzic Point_ (which is the North Point of the Coves) to _Fortune_ the Course is N.E. near 3 Leagues; the Land between them near the Shore is of a moderate Height, and bold too; you will have in most Places 10 and 12 Fathom two Cables Length from the Shore, 30 and 40 one Mile off, and 70 and 80 two Miles off. _Fortune_ lies North from the East-end of _Brunet_, it is a Bar Place that will admit Fishing Boats at a quarter Flood; and a Fishing Village situated in the Bottom of a small Bay, wherein is Anchorage for Shipping in 6, 8, 10, and 12 Fathom; the Ground is none of the best, and you lay open to near half the Compass.

[Sidenote: Grand Bank.]

[Sidenote: Great Garnish.]

[Sidenote: Frenchman's Cove.]

[Sidenote: Anchorage.]

Cape of _Grand Bank_ is a pretty high Point, lying 1 League N.E. from _Fortune_; into the E. ward of the Cape is _Ship Cove_, wherein is good Anchorage for Shipping, in 8 and 10 Fathom, shelter'd from Southerly, Westerly, and N.W. Winds. _Grand Bank_ lies E.S.E. half a League from the Cape, it is a Fishing Village, and a Bar Harbour, that will admit Fishing Shallops at a quarter Flood; to this Place and _Fortune_ resort the Crews of Fishing Ships, who lay their Ships up in Harbour _Briton_. From the Cape of _Grand Bank_ to Point _Enragee_, the Course is NE. a quarter E. 8 Leagues, forming a Bay between them, in which the Shore is low with several sandy Beaches, behind which are Bar Harbours that will admit Boats on the Tide of Flood, the largest of which is _Great Garnish_, 5 Leagues from _Grand Bank_, it may be known by several Rocks above Water laying before it, 2 Miles from the Shore, the outmost of these Rocks are steep too, but between them and the Shore are dangerous sunken Rocks. To the Eastward, and within these Rocks is _Frenchman's Cove_, wherein you may Anchor with small Vessels, in 4 and 5 Fathom Water, tolerably well shelter'd from the Sea Winds, and seems a convenient Place for the Cod Fishery: The Passage in is to the Eastward of the Rocks that are the highest above Water; between them and some other lower Rocks laying off to the Eastward from the East Point of the _Cove_, there is a sunken Rock nearly in the Middle of this Passage, which you must be aware of. You may Anchor any where under the Shore, between _Grand Bank_ and _Great Garnish_ in 8 and 10 Fathom Water, but you are only shelter'd from the Land Winds.

[Sidenote: Point Enragee.]

_Point Enragee_ is but low, but a little way in the Country is high Land; this Point may be known by two Hommocks upon it close to the Shore, but you must be very near, otherwise the Elevation of the high Lands will hinder you from discovering them; close to the Point is a Rock under Water.

From _Point Enragee_ to the Head of the Bay, the Course is first N.E. a quarter E. 3 Leagues to _Grand Jervey_; then N.E. by E. half E. 7 Leagues and a half to the Head of the Bay; the Land in general along the South-side is high, bold too, and of an uneven Height, with Hills and Vallies of various extent; the Vallies for the most Part cloathed with Wood, and water'd with small Rivulets.

[Sidenote: Bay L'Arjent.]

Seven Leagues to the Eastward of _Point Enragee_, is the Bay _L'Argent_, wherein you may Anchor in 30 or 40 Fathom Water, shelter'd from all Winds.

[Sidenote: Harbour Millee.]

The Entrance of Harbour _Millee_ is to the Eastward of the East Point of _L'Argent_; before this Harbour and the Bay _L'Argent_ is a remarkable Rock, that at a Distance appears like a Shallop under Sail. _Harbour Millee_ branches into two Arms, one laying into the N.E. and the other towards the E. at the upper Part of both is good Anchorage, and various Sorts of Wood. Between this Harbour and _Point Enragee_, are several Bar Harbours in small Bays, wherein are sandy Beaches, off which Vessels may Anchor, but they must be very near the Shore to be in a moderate Depth of Water.

[Sidenote: Cape Millee.]

_Cape Millee_ lies N.N.E. half E. 1 League from the afore-mentioned _Shallop Rock_, and near 3 Leagues from the Head of _Fortune Bay_ is a high reddish barren Rock. The wedth of _Fortune Bay_ at _Cape Millee_ doth not exceed half a League, but immediately below it, it is twice as wide, by which this Cape may be easily known; above this Cape the Land on both Sides is high, with steep craggy Cliffs. The Head of the Bay is terminated by a low Beach, behind which is a large Pond or Bar Harbour, into which Boats can go at quarter Flood. In this and all the Bar Harbours between it and _Grand Bank_, are convenient Places for building of Stages, and good Beaches for drying of Fish, for great Numbers of Boats.

[Sidenote: Grand L'Pierre Harbour]

_Grand L'Pierre_ is a good Harbour, situated on the North-side of the Bay, half a League from the Head, you can see no Entrance until you are abreast of it; there is not the least Danger in going in, and you may Anchor in any Depth from 8 to 4 Fathom, shelter'd from all Winds.

[Sidenote: English Harbour.]

_English Harbour_ lies a little to the Westward of _Grand L'Pierre_, it is very small, and fit only for Boats and small Vessels.

[Sidenote: Little Bay de Leau.]

To the Westward of _English Harbour_ is a small Bay called _Little Bay de Leau_, wherein are some small Islands, behind which is shelter for small Vessels.

[Sidenote: New Harbour]

This Harbour is situated opposite _Cape Millee_, to the Westward of _Bay de Leau_; it is but a small Inlet, yet hath good Anchorage on the West-side in 9, 8, 7, and 5 Fathom Water, sheltered from the S.W. Winds.

[Sidenote: Harbour Femme.]

Harbour _Femme_, which lies half a League to the Westward of _New Harbour_, lies in NE. half a League, it is very narrow, and hath in it 23 Fathom Water, before the Entrance is an Island, near to which are some Rocks above Water: the Passage into the Harbour is to the Eastward of the Island.

[Sidenote: Brewer's Hole.]

One League to the Westward of _Harbour Femme_, is a small Cove called _Brewer's Hole_, wherein is Shelter for Fishing Boats; before this Cove is a small Island near the Shore, and some Rocks above Water.

[Sidenote: Harbour la Conte.]